IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


// 


^  >^fe. 


1.0 


11 


Ji 
1.25 


12.8 


US  in^ 


U^ 


2.2 

1^    12.0 


Iti 


1.4 


I 

m 

1.6 


V] 


^J> 


> 


.-V 


y 


/ 


'^  > 


^. 


w 


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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  V  SST  MAIN  STREET 

WiSttSTER.N.Y.  14SS0 

(716)  S72-4503 


iV 


iV 


^v 


r<\^ 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographicaily  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 


D 
D 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagde 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture)  restaur^e  et/ou  pelliculie 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


D 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relid  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  chadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

Lareliure  serr6e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  int6rieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajoutdes 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6x6  film^es. 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppldmentaires: 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  methods  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


Tl 
to 


D 
D 
D 

D 

a 
□ 

n 


Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag6es 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaur^es  et/ou  peilicuides 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d^colordes,  tachetdes  ou  piqudes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtach^es 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Qualit6  indgale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppl^mentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  cnt  6t6  filmdes  6  nouveau  de  fagon  6 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


Tl 

P( 
o1 
fil 


Oi 
b« 

th 
sl« 
ot 
fir 

Si4 

or 


T^ 
sh 
Til 

wl 

Ml 
dil 
en 
be 
rifl 
re« 
mi 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu6  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


y 


26X 


30X 


12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


Th«  copy  *Um«d  her*  hat  bMn  raproducad  thanks 
to  tha  o'narosity  of: 

Library  Diviiion 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 

Tha  imagaa  appaaring  hara  ara  tha  baat  quality 
potsibia  considaring  tha  condition  and  lagibility 
of  tha  original  copy  and  in  Itaaping  with  tha 
fiinting  contract  tpacificationa. 


Original  copias  in  printad  papar  covars  ara  filmad 
baginning  with  tha  front  covar  and  anding  on 
tha  last  paga  with  a  printad  or  illustratad  impras- 
sion,  or  tha  back  covar  whan  appropriata.  All 
othar  original  copiat  ara  filmad  baginning  on  tha 
first  paga  with  a  printad  or  illustratad  impras- 
sion.  and  anding  on  tha  last  paga  with  a  printad 
or  illustratad  imprassion. 


Tha  last  racordad  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^>  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


L'exemplaira  film*  fut  reproduit  grice  *  la 
ginArositA  da: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 

Lea  images  suivantas  ont  At*  reproduites  avac  le 
plus  grand  soin.  compta  tenu  de  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattet*  de  l'exemplaira  film*,  et  en 
conformity  avac  las  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplairas  originaux  dom  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprim«e  sont  filmAs  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
darniire  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration.  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  las  autres  exemplairas 
originaux  sont  filmis  en  commen^ant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  cu  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  darniire  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
derniAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  ie  symbols  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE  ",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN  ". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
film«s  A  des  teux  de  reduction  diffArents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  %ua 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clich«,  il  est  film*  *  partir 
de  I'angle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mithode. 


1 

2 

3 

!      ^ 

f 

6 

"  or  THt  II 
LISBBD  It 
■JOCIETl 
LARDNIR' 
BLC,  AND 
AaslSTANC 


HISTORY 
Mackln 
lUhed. 

"  In  tbe  ( 
lory  of  Engl 
pation«  of  tl 
pfay  will  difT 
ill)  History.' 

'  In  this  V 
llioae  great  p 
have  long  gi' 
mentary  thai 
of  tbe  most  i 
—Jitlat. 

••  Worthy  i 
author's  high 
with  big  hig 
occasional  si 
Oazettt. 

••  ir  talents 
litics.  and  ye 
and  the  col'lei 
urity  in  a  hist 
readiiif;  this  v 
tory  of  this  c 
that  tliiise  wl 
not  rcckonfNl 
author."— Con 

'Oiirantici 

I  highly  raised, 

I th^y  bive  not 

I  a  nervous  styl 

I  quired  liy  coi 

■  ceding  chronii 

I  this  popular  al 

to  univcrsnl  a{ 

has  begun,  Sir 

lit  on  his  coun 

"  Of  its  gem 

impossible  to  i 

and  after  a  cat 

umea  which  hi 

Clare  that,  so 

the  duty  t*  wl 

that  wa    to  be 

ments,  his  labo 

lent  judgment, 

principles  "— /; 

"  We  shall  | 

the  rcforiiiatioN 

has  been  handl 

professing  }'rot( 

'  The  talents 
deeply  letpected 
Cited  with  regat 
writer  may  thill 
as  in  all  nthnrs 
Oihtleman'i  Ma 

'  The  wciind 
ing  the  sixth  o 
been  st'i\t  nbruai 
its  predecessors, 
the  important  tr 
■a  conspicuous  i 
great  clearness  a 


BIOtiRAPH' 
containing 
Cardinal  ^ 
and  Iiord  I 

"  A  Tery  deligt 
increase  in  inten 
commend  tbe  wo 
l»»d.  Lit.  Ottzttti 


LARDNER'S  CABINET  CYCLOPEDIA. 


'  or  THE  M4NY  WORKS  WHICH  HAVE  BKIN  LATCLT  PITB- 
LIBBED  IN  IMITATION,  OR  ON  THE  PLAN  ADOPTED  RT  THE 
JOCIETT  rOR  THE  DIPFD8ION  OP  USEPUL  KNOWLEDOE,  DR. 
LARDHER'l  crCLOPiEDIA  18  BT  MOCH  THE  MOST  VALUA- 
BLE, AND  THE  MOST  RECOMMENDED  BT  DIITINODIIHED 
ASSiaTAMCE,  SCIE^.irnC   AND   LITERARY." 

£diHiurgh  Revino, 


HISTORY  OF  KNOXjAND.  By  Sir  James 
MaeUntoBh*  In  8  Vols*  III  Tola,  pub- 
Ilahed. 

"  In  tbe  flrat  volume  of  Sir  James  Mackintosh'!*  His- 
tory of  England,  we  find  enough  to  warrant  the  antici- 
pationii  of  the  public,  that  a  calm  and  luminouD  philoso- 
phy will  diffuse  itself  over  the  long  narrative  of  o'lr  Urit- 
isb  History." — Edinburgk  Review. 

"In  this  volume  Sir  James  Mackintosh  fully  dcvplopes 
those  great  powers,  for  tbe  possession  of  which  the  public 
have  long  given  bim  credit.  Tbe  result  i»  the  ablest  com- 
mentary that  bns  yet  appeared  in  our  language  upon  some 
of  the  most  important  circumstances  of  English  History." 
—JtUat. 

'  Worthy  in  tbe  method,  style,  and  reflections,  of  tbe 
author's  high  reputation.  We  were  particularly  pleaseil 
with  hJ9  high  vein  of  philosophical  sentimpp;,  ami  his 
occasional  survey  of  contemporary  annab. '— A'iKiaiia/ 
QatfUi. 

'■  If  talents  of  the  highest  order,  long  e.Tperience  in  po- 
litics, and  years  of  application  to  tbe  stut'y  of  history 
and  the  collection  of  information,  can  comn-and  superi- 
ority in  a  historian,  Sir  James  Mackintosh  ma/,  without 
reading  this  work,  be  said  to  have  produced  the  best  his- 
tory of  this  country.  A  perusal  of  the  work  will  prove 
that  tliiise  who  anticipated  a  superior  production,  have 
not  reckoned  in  vain  on  the  high  qualifications  of  tbo 
author."— Ce«rtfr. 

"  Our  anticipations  of  this  volume  were  certainly  very 
highly  raised,  and  unlike  such  anticipations  in  general, 
th^y  have  not  been  disappointed.  A  philosophical  spirit, 
a  nervous  style,  and  n  full  knowledge  of  the  subject,  ac- 
quired liy  considerable  research  into  tbe  workn  of  pre- 
ceding chroniclers  and  historians,  eminently  distiiiEuii>h 
this  pxpiilar  nbridgni'-nt,  and  cannot  fail  to  reconimi>nd  il 
to  universal  approbation.  In  continuing  his  work  as  he 
has  begun.  Sir  James  Mackintosh  will  confer  a  great  bene 
fit  on  his  country."— JUn4.  Lit.  Oatette. 

"  Of  its  general  merits,  and  its  permanent  value,  it  is 
impossible  to  epeak,  without  the  highest  commendation, 
and  after  a  careAil  and  attentive  perusal  of  the  two  vol- 
umes which  have  been  publislied,  we  are  enabled  to  de- 
clare that,  so  far.  Sir  James  Mackintosh  bas  performed 
the  duty  t*  which  he  was  assigned,  with  all  the  ability 
that  wa  to  ba  expected  from  his  great  previous  attain- 
ments, his  laliorions  industry  in  investigation,  his  excel- 
lent judgment,  his  superior  talents,  and  bis  honorable 
principles  " — Inquirer. 

"  We  shall  probably  extract  tlie  whole  of  his  view  of 
the  r<!fi>nnation,  merely  to  show  buw  that  important  topic 
has  been  h.indled  by  to  ablu  and  pbilusophical  a  writer, 
profeiisiiig  I'rott'stantism.— A'afiona/  GaiUie. 

"  The  talents  of  Sir  James  Mackintosli  are  so  justly  and 
deeply  respected,  that  a  strong  interest  is  necessarily  ex- 
cited with  regard  to  any  work  which  such  a  distiii|,'uishod 
writer  may  think  fit  to  undertake.  In  the  present  inNtancc, 
as  in  all  othnrs,  our  exiiectations  are  fully  gratitied."— 
Oentleman'i  Maga-.ine. 

"  The  second  volume  of  the  History  of  Rnglnnd,  form, 
ing  the  sixth  of  Ciirey  &  l^a'sC'abinut  Cyciupiedia.  has 
been  sent  abroad,  ar.d  entirely  sustains  tbe  reputation  of 
its  predecessors.  The  various  factions  and  dimensiims, 
the  important  trials  and  battles,  which  render  this  period 
so  conspicuous  in  the  page  of  history,  are  all  relati.Ml  with 
great  ctsarnuss  and  masterly  power."— Bosfaa  TrarttUr. 


BIOURAPHY  OF  BRITISH  ST ATKSBIKN  | 
containing  the  Iilvea  of  Sir  Thomas  IMorr^ 
Cardinal  'WoUey-f  Archbishop  Cranmcr, 
and  Lord  Burleigh. 

"  A  very  delightful  volume,  and  on  a  subject  likely  to 
increase  in  interest  as  it  proceeds.  •  *  *  We  cordially 
commend  the  work  botb  for  its  deaign  and  azecution."— 
Lend.  Lit.  OciMte. 


HISTORY  OF  SCOTI.Ain>.    Bjr  Sir  Walter 
Scott.    In  a  Vols. 

"  Tbe  History  of  Scotland,  by  Sir  Walter  Scott,  we  do 
not  hesitate  to  declare,  will  be,  if  possible,  more  exten- 
sively read,  than  the  most  popular  work  of  Action,  by  the 
same  prolific  author,  and  for  this  obvious  reason :  it  com- 
bines much  of  the  brilliant  coloring  of  the  Ivanboe  pic- 
tures of  by.gone  manners,  and  all  tlM>  graceful  fiscility  of 
style  and  picturesqnoness  of  description  of  his  other 
charming  romances,  with  a  min*ite  fidelity  to  the  facts 
of  history,  and  a  searching  scrutiny  into  theii  authenti- 
city and  relative  value,  which  might  put  to  tlic  blush 
Mr.  Hume  and  oilier  professed  historians.  Such  is  tbe 
magic  charm  of  Sir  Walter  Scott's  pen,  it  lias  only  to 
touch  the  simplest  incident  of  uvery-day  life,  and  it  starts 
up  invested  with  all  the  interest  of  a  scene  of  romance ; 
and  yet  such  is  his  fidelity  to  the  text  of  nature,  that  tha 
knij^its,  and  serfs,  and  collared  fools  with  whom  bis  in- 
ventive genius  has  peopled  so  many  volumes,  are  regarded 
by  us  as  not  mere  creations  of  flincy,  but  as  real  flesh  and 
blood  existences,  with  all  the  virtues,  feelings  and  errors 
of  oommon-place  humanity,"— Lit.  OaicUs. 


HISTORY  OF  FRANCE.    By  Eyro  Erans 
Cro«ve.    In  3  vols. 

HISTORY  OF  FRANCE,  from  the  Restorap 
tlon  of  the  Bonrbons,  to  the  Revolution 
of  1830.  By  T.  B.  Mstcamlay,  Esq.  M.  P. 
Nearly  ready. 

"  The  style  is  concise  and  clear ;  and  events  are  sum- 
med up  with  imich  vigor  and  originality."— Zit.  Oa:el«. 

"  His  history  of  France  is  worthy  to  figure  with  the 
works  of  his  associates,  the  best  of  tlieir  day,  Scott  and 
Mackintosh."- ^oafA/y  Mag. 

"  For  such  a  task  Mr.  Crows  is  eminently  qualified. 
At  a  Ejlance,  as  it  were,  bis  eye  takes  in  the  theatre  of 
centuries.  His  style  is  neat,  clear,  and  pithy ;  and  his 
|Hi»er  of  condensation  enables  bim  to  say  much,  and 
cO'^tively,  in  a  few  words^  to  |iresent  a  distinct  and 
lifrfi'ct  picture  in  a  narrowly  circumscribed  space  "—La 
Bttle  Aasembtte. 

'  The  style  is  neat  and  condensed ;  the  thoughts  and 
conclusions  sound  and  Just.  The  necessary  conciseness 
of  ihe  narrative  is  unaccompanied  by  any  baldnecs;  on 
the  contrary,  it  is  spirited  and  engaging."— fia/t,  Jlmeri- 
can. 

'  To  compress  the  history  of  a  great  nation,  during  a 
period  of  thirteen  hundred  years,  into  three  volumes,  and 
to  preserve  sufficient  distinctness  as  well  as  interest  in 
the  narrative,  to  enable  and  induce  the  reader  to  possess 
himself  clearly  of  all  the  leading  incidents,  is  a  task  by 
no  means  easily  executed.  It  has,  nevertheless,  been  well 
accomplished  in  this  instance."— J\f.  Y.  American. 

"Written  with  spirit  and  taste."— 17.  S.  Oatette. 

"Could  we  but  persuade  our  young  friends  to  give 
these  volumes  a  careful  iierusal,  we  should  feel  assured 
' .  their  grateful  ncknowledgmsnts  of  profit  and  pleas- 
ure."—JV.  Y.  Mirror. 

"At  once  concise  and  entertaining."— Safurday  £■{- 

Utin. 


THE  HISTORY  OF  THE  NETHERLANU!. 
to  the  Battle  of  Waterloo.    By  T.  C.  Grat- 
tan. 

"  It  is  hut  justice  to  Mr.  Grattan  to  say  that  he  has 
executed  his  laborious  task  with  much  industry  and  pro- 
porlionate  effect.  Undisfigured  by  pompous  nolhingncati, 
and  without  any  of  the  nff'ectation  of  philosophical  pro. 
fundity,  his  style  is  simple,  light,  and  frcsb— perspicuous, 
smooth,  and  harmonious."— i^  Belle  Mtetmhlee. 

"  Never  did  work  appear  at  a  more  fortunate  period. 
The  volume  before  us  is  a  compressed  but  clear  and  im- 
partial narrative."— /<tt.  Oai. 

"  A  long  residence  in  the  country,  and  a  ready  access  to 
libraries  and  archives,  have  fui  iehed  Mr.  Grattan  with 
materials  which  be  bas  arranged  with  skill,  and  out  of 
wbicb  be  bas  produced  a  most  interesting  volums."— 
aent  Mag. 


'\MI>' 


CABINET   LIBRARY. 


No.  1.— NARRATIVE  OP  THE  LATE 
WAR  IN  GERMANY  AND  FRANCE, 
By  the  Marqi'ess  of  Lomw.tDKRRT.  With 
a  Map. 

No.   2.— JOURNAL  of  a  NATURALIST, 

witli  plated. 

No.  a— AUTOBIOGRAPHY  of  SIR  WAL- 
TER SCOTT.    With  a  portrait 

No.  4.— MEMOIRS  of  SIR  WALTER  RA- 
LEGII.  By  Mrs.  A.  T.  Thomson.  With  a 
portrait 

No.  5.— UFE  of  BELISARIUS.  By  Lord 
Maiion. 

No.  (5.— MILITARY  MEMOIRS  of  the 
DUKE  OF  WELLINGTON.  By  Capt 
MoYLE  Sherer.     With  a  portrait. 

x\o.  7.— LETTERS  to  a  YOUNG  NATU- 
R  A  LIST  ON  THE  STUDY  of  NATURE 
AND  NATURAL  THEOLOGY.  By  J.  I. 
Drvmmond,  M.  D.  With  numeroua  en- 
gravings. 

IS  PREPAnATIOX. 

LIFE  OF  PETRARCH.    By  Thoma.s  Moore. 
CLEANINGS  in   NATURAL    HISTORY, 

being'  a  Companion  to  the  Journal  of  a  Nat- 
uralist 

"  The  Cabinet  Library  bills  fair  lo  be  a  neriei"  of  grpat 
vali'e,  and  is  recoRimciidpd  to  public  anil  pri\a(e  libraries, 
to  prnu;;i;ii<nal  men,  and  ini!>ni.-llaiiiM>iis  rfadcr.s  seni-rally. 
It  is  heautirully  primed,  and  tiirni»!i<'i|  at  a  price  whith 
will  place  it  within  the  reach  of  all  clastsei)  of  society."— 
Ameritan  TrcvfUcr. 

"  The  scriea  of  instrnctive,  and,  in  llieir  original  form. 
c.\pt>nMive  works,  which  these  enlerpri«in:;  publinhers  are 
now  ibsning  under  the  title  uf  the  "Cabinet  Library." 
is  a  fonntainuf  ubefiil,  and  almost nnivers.-il  knowledge; 
the  advantages  of  which,  in  forniins  the  opinions,  taiten, 
and  manners  of  that  portion  of  .inrielv,  to  which  this 
varied  information  is  yet  new,  cannot  be  too  highly 
uxtiniated."— A*a(io«a/ Joarna/. 

"  Messrs.  Carey  and  liea  linvi-  rommenceil  a  series  of 
piiblirations  under  the  nlK>vr  tille.  wiiirli  an- to  apfiear 
monthly,  and  which  seem  likflv.  fnnn  the  sperimen  liefuri- 
us,  to  acquire  a  lii^h  degree  of  popularity,  and  to  alfjrd 
a  mass  of  various  information  and  rich  entertainment, 
at  once  eminenliy  useful  and  "trongly  attractive.  Tlie 
mechaniinl  ex.Tution  is  line,  thf  paper  and  typoi;raphy 
excelletit."— A-UKAfi/ZeBoaBfr. 


ItlRinOIRS  OF  THE  MPE  OF  SIR  IVAL,- 
TER  RAIjEC'II,  with  aomc  Accoiuat  of  tbe 
Period  In  which  he  llred.  By  MRS.  A.  T. 
THOMSON.    With  a  Portrait. 

"  Such  is  the  outline  of  •  life,  which,  in  Mrs.  Thom- 
son's hands,  is  a  mine  of  interest ;  from  the  first  page  to 
the  Inst  the  attention  is  roused  and  sustained,  and  while 
we  approve  the  manner,  we  still  more  applaud  tbe  spirit 
in  which  it  is  executed." — LtUrarj/  Oazetu. 


JOURNAI.  OF  A  NATURALIST. 
PUtra. 


and  more  particularly  of  our  rnuntrf  reiders.  It  will 
induce  them,  we  are  Kure,  to  examine  more  closely  than 
they  have  lieen  accustomed  to  do,  into  the  objects  of  ani- 
inateil  nature,  atui  such  examination  will  prove  one  of 
tlie  most  iniioo!iit,  and  the  most  satisfactory  sources  nf 
iratificntion  and  amusetnent.  It  is  a  hook  tliat  ought 
to  find  its  way  into  every  rural  drawinc-roum  in  the 
kingdom,  and  one  that  may  safely  be  placed  in  eve.-y 
lady's  boudoir,  be  Iter  rank  and  station  in  life  Tk'hat  they 
may.'— v»«»ter/jr  Review,  No.  LXXVIIL 

"We  think  that  tlierc  are  low  readers  who  will  not 
lie  delighted  (we  are  certain  all  will  lie  instructed)  by  the 
'Journal  of  a  Naturalist.'  "—Mmtkl)  Revieto. 

"  Tliis  is  a  most  delightful  book  on  tlie  most  ilelightfii) 
of  all  studies.  We  are  acquainted  with  no  previous 
wnik  which  Ix-ars  any  resemblance  to  this,  excpt 
'  White's  History  of  Selborne,'  the  most  (bscinaling  piece 
of  rural  wriiini;  and  sound  English  philosophy  that  ever 
issued  from  the  im'M."—Atkeniruiit. 

"Ttie  antlior  of  the  volume  now  before  us,  has  pro. 
ducrd  one  of  the  most  chnriiiing  voliiines  we  n-mcmber 
to  have  seen  for  a  long  time."— JVcv  Mo»tkl}i  Magatine, 
June,  lt»!». 

"  A  ilclightful  volume— perhaps  the  most  so— nor  less 
instructive  and  amusing— qiven  to  Natural  History 
since  White's  Selborne."— A/artwood's  Magmine. 

"  The  Journal  of  a  Naturalist.  Iieini  the  second  nam- 
lipr  nf  l.'arey  and  Lea's  beautiful  edition  of  the  Cabinet 
Library,  is  the  best  treatise  on  subjects  connected  with 
this  train  of  thought,  that  we  have  for  a  long  time  pc- 
ruscd.  and  we  are  not  at  nil  surjirised  that  it  slmuld  have 
rfi-eiveil  so  high  nnd  tinltering  encomiums  from  the  Eng- 
lish press  generally."— BiM/o«  VVai't/Zcr. 

'  Furnishing  an  interesting  and  familiar  account  of 
the  various  .ilijccts  of  niiiinati-d  nature,  lint  calculated 
to  afford  both  instruction  aiul  entertainment."— A'uA- 
rille  Banner. 

"One  of  '1k!  most  nereenhle  works  of  its  kind  in  the 
language."— CoMrifr  ie  la  Louitinne. 

"  It  nlmunds  with  numerous  and  curious  farts,  pleas- 
ing illustrations  n''the  secret  opi-rnlions  and  economy  of 
iintun-.  and  sruisl'nctory  displays  of  the  power,  wisdom 
and  guodiies.'',  of  tlie  great  Creiitor. "— PAi/aJ  MiuvL. 


IVith 


Plants,  trees,  and  stones  we  note ; 

Birds,  insects,  beasts,  and  rural  things. 

"  We  again  mott  strongly  recommend  this  little  nnpre- 
Unding  volume  to  the  attention  of  every  lover  of  nature. 


THE  I«ARq,I'ISSS  OF  liONDONDERRT'S 
NARRATIVE  OF  THE  I.ATE  WAR  IN 
GERMANY  AND  FRANCE.    "With  a  Map. 

"  No  history  of  the  events  to  which  it  n!late8  can  be 
corn'ct  without  reference  to  its  staiemcnts."- /.iterarji 
Oazfite. 

"The  events  detailed  in  this  volume  rannot  fliil  to 
excite  an  intense  interest."— />uMin  Literary  Oautte. 

"The  only  connected  and  well  nutlienticated  account 
»ve  liave  of  the  spirit-stirring  scenes  which  preceded  the 
fall  of  Napoleon.  It  introduces  us  into  the  cabinets  and 
presence  of  the  allied  monarchs.  We  observe  the  secret 
policy  of  each  individual :  we  see  the  course  pursued  hy 
the  wily  Ilernado'io,  th':  temporixing  Mettrrnirh.  anil 
the  ambitions  Alexander.  TIh;  work  deserves  a  place  in 
every  historical  library."— 0/o6e. 

"  We  hail  with  pleasure  the  appearance  of  the  first 
volume  of  llie  Cabinet  Library."  "  The  author  had  sin- 
gular facilities  for  obtaining  the  materials  of  bis  work, 
and  Ik-  lias  introdiiceil  us  to  the  movements  and  measures 
of  cabinets  which  have  hitlierto  been  hidden  from  tlie 
world."— jJmerican  Traveller. 

"It  maybe  regarded  ns  the  most  authentic  of  all  the 
publications  which  profess  to  detail  tlie  events  of  th< 
important  campaigns,  terminating  with  that  whicb  se- 
cure the  capture  of  the  Fa>ncli  metropolis."- vVat.  Juar- 
%al. 

"  It  is  in  fact  tlie  only  authentic  account  of  the  meao- 
rable  events  to  which  it  refers."— A'asAtiHs  Banner. 

"  The  work  deserves  a  place  in  every  library ."-nw/a- 
dttpUa  Jlllnm. 


I        CA 


'  It  is  not 

or  TRINO 
THE  MOS' 
CaTED  CL 
AND    PRAI 

■raaoLS 
ADD  nasi 

AMD  IIPI 

or  oauiNi 

PRELIM 
JECTS, 
ITRES 
PHILOfl 

A.  M. 
Cambrl 

"Without 
ing  and  insi 
and  (hmily  I 
at  the  licad  < 
information, 
pby  in  Dr.  Li 

'The  fine 
age  has  seen 

"  By  far  Ih 
competition 
i     enterprise  ha 
'  Mr.  Ilersi 
I  scattered  thr( 
I  illustration, ' 
I  so  as  BOineti 
I  which  crowd 
I  Review. 

' It  is  the 
I  met  with."—. 

'  One  of  tl 
I  have  ever  per 


A  TREAT 
Kater^  ■ 
U^ith  nil 

"  A  work  1 
useful  inform 
gible  forra."- 

"This  volui 
a  part  of  Dr. 
ceived  the  ui 
men  of  scienc 
reviews,  in  t 
popular  and 
roatical  symb 
technical  phr 

"  Admirabii 
especially  fel 
jects." — Jllonti 

•  TI'.ouBh  r( 
highest  order 
ties  in  a  way 
lar. "—/.»(.  Oe 

'  A  work  01 
not  oiilv  to  th 
enco."-A'.  Y. 


A  TREAT 
PNEITM/ 
With  uu 

"It  fully sai 
expressed  as  t 
ence."— Lit.  C 

"  Dr.  tarda 
with  the  timi 
science."— .Mb 

"It  is  writ 
and  in  a  pop 
lions  of  the  i 
eaces."— i;.  S 


X 


LARDNER'S 
CABINET  CYCLOPEDIA. 


tden.  It  will 
e  clmely  than 
tbjcclsof  an  I 
prove  one  of 
dry  source*  of 
ik  tluit  ought 
I-roum  in  the 
Bred  in  eve;y 
life  n'hat  they 

who  will  not 
ructed)  by  the 


nost  ilelightftil 
I  no  previo'.ii 
I  thl!<.  uxri'pt 
<riiialin(  pirco 
)pliy  that  «vcr 

n  us,  has  pro- 
we  rniMiuiber 
tUy  JUagaant, 

nt  M>— nor  less 
itural  History 
jaiini. 

e  second  nam- 
uf  the  Cabinet 
onnccteri  with 
loni;  time  pc- 
it  Hliould  have 
I  froui  the  Eng- 


lar  account  of 
liut  calculated 
iment."— JVSw*- 

ts  kind  in  the 


farts,  pleas 
nd  economy  of 
^>wer,  wisdoni 
fai<  Jllhum. 


IVDERRT'S 
"WAR  IN 
VlUa  a  Map. 

lates  can  be 
iita."—lAterarti 

■annot  fail  to 
iry  Gaiette. 

icated  account 
h  preceded  the 
cabinets  end 
rvc  the  secret 
rse  pursued  by 
ettrriiich,  snil 
rves  a  place  in 

;e  of  the  first 
iithor  had  nin- 
of  his  work, 
and  measures 
Iden  from  tlie 

ntir  of  all  the 
events  of  the 
hat  which  se- 
—^fat.  Jtur- 

of  the  roeno- 
Bannir. 

rary,"-P«/«- 


"  It  is  hot  east  to  divisk  a  coaa  roR  soon  a  stati 
or  TniNos  (THE  DicLiHiNO  TASTE  ro«  sci«kck;)  bot 

TBI  MOST  OaVlOl'S  BIMKDV  IS  TO  PKOVIDE  THE  EDU 
CATED  CtASSKS  WITH  A  SEEIES  OF  WORKS  OR  POPULAR 
AND  PRAITICAI.  SCIENCE,  FREED  FROM  MATHEMATICAL 
■TMBOLS  AND  TECHNICAL  TERMS,  WRITTEN  IN  SIMPLE 
AND  PERBPICDOns  LAHOUAOE,  AND  ILLUSTRATED  »V  FACTS 
AND  EXPERIMENTS,  WHICH  ARE  LEVEL  TO  THE  OAPAglTT 

OF  ORDINARY  MINDS."— Quarttr/y  Rniiw. 

PRKIiIBinirARY  DISCOUR8K  OM  THK  OB- 
JBCT8,  ADVANTAGES,  AND  PLEAS- 
IIRES  OF  THE  STUDY  OF  NATVRAJL 
PHILOSOPHY.  By  J.  T.  "W.  Hcrachel, 
A.  H.  Ute  Fellow  of  St*  John's  College, 
Cambridge. 

"  Without  disparaging  any  other  of  the  many  interest- 
ing and  instructive  volumes  issued  in  the  form  of  cabinet 
•nd  (kmily  libraries,  it  is,  perhaps,  not  too  much  to  place 
at  the  head  of  the  list,  for  extent  and  variety  of  condensed 
information,  Mr.  Herchel's  discourse  of  Natural  Philoso- 
|iby  in  Dr.  Lardner's  Cyclopedia."— C*ri««iaii  Okttrvtr. 

"  The  finest  work  of  philosophical  genius  which  this 
age  has  seen."— JtraciintiuA't  Knfland. 

'■  By  fhr  the  most  delightful  book  to  which  the  existing 
competition  between  literary  rivals  of  preat  talent  and 
enterprise  has  given  tiae."— Monthly  R$vuib. 

"  Mr.  Herschcl's  delightful  volume.  *  »  •  We  find 
scattered  through  the  work  instances  of  vivid  and  happy 
illustration,  where  the  fhncy  is  usefully  called  into  action, 
so  as  soinetinies  to  remind  us  of  the  splendid  pictures 
which  crowd  upon  us  in  the  style  of  Bacon."— QNortsr/y 
Aerisie. 

"  It  is  the  most  exciting  volume  of  the  kind  we  ever 
met  }xM\."— Monthly  Magazine. 

"  One  of  tlie  most  instructive  and  delightful  books  we 
have  ever  perused."— I/.  S.  Journal. 


LARDNER'S 
CABINET  CYCLOPiEDlA. 


A  TREATISE  ON  MECHANICS.  By  Capt. 
Kater,  said  the  Rev.  Dlonyslus  laardner. 
IVlth  numeroas  cngrarlngs* 

"  A  work  which  contains  an  uncommon  amount  of 
useful  information,  exhibited  in  a  plain  and  very  intelli- 
gible form."— O/sufed's  JVaC.  Phihiophy. 

"  This  volume  has  been  lately  published  in  Encland,  as 
a  part  of  Dr.  Lardner's  Cabinet  Cyclopiedia,  and  has  re- 
ceived the  unsolicited  approbation  of  the  most  eminent 
men  of  science,  and  the  most  discriminating  Journals  and 
reviews,  in  the  British  metropolis.— It  is  written  in  a 
popular  and  in;elligible  style,  entirely  free  from  mathe- 
matical symbols,  and  disencumbered  as  far  as  possible  of 
technical  phrases." — Boston  Traveller. 

"  Admirable  ir.  development  and  clear  in  principles,  and 
especially  felicitous  in  illustration  from  familiar  sub- 
jects."— Monthly  Mag. 

'•  TI:ou(rli  replete  with  philosophical  information  of  the 
highest  order  in  mechanics,  adnptod  to  ordinary  capaci 
ties  in  a  way  to  render  it  at  once  intelligible  and  popU' 
lar."— /.!(.  Oazette. 

"  A  work  of  great  merit,  full  of  valuable  information 
not  only  to  the  practical  ineclinnic,  hut  to  tlie  man  uf  sci 
encc."— A".  Y.  Courier  and  Kuquirer. 


A  TREATISE  ON  HYDROSTATICS  AND 
PNEUMATICS.  By  the  Rer.  D.  Gardner. 
With  numerous  engravings. 

"  It  fully  sjitains  the  favorable  opinion  we  have  already 
expressed  as  to  this  valuable  compendium  of  modern  sci- 
ence."— lit.  Oazette. 

"  Dr.  Lardner  has  made  a  good  use  of  his  acquaintance 
with  the  familiar  flicts  which  illustrate  the  principles  of 
science."— ,MiiR(A/y  ^a^atias. 

"It  is  written  with  a  full  knowledge  of  th<>  subject, 
and  in  a  popular  style,  aboiioding  ir  practical  illiistra. 
lions  of  the  abstruse  operations  uf  thase  impurant  sci- 
ences."—IT.  S.  Journal. 


HISTORY  OF  THE  RISE,  PROGRESS, 
AND  PRESENT  STATE  op  the  SILK 
MANUFACTURE;  with  numerous  En- 
gravings. 

"  It  contains  abundant  information  in  every  depart- 
ment of  this  interesting  branch  of  human  industry— in 
the  history,  culture,  and  manufacture  of  silk."— .MmMfy 
Magazine. 

There  is  a  great  deal  of  curious  inforniation  in  this 
little  volume."— Literary  Gazette. 

HISTORY  OP  THE  ITALIAN  REPUBLICS; 
being  a  View  of  the  Rise,  Progress,  and 
Fall  of  Italian  Freedom.     By  J.  C.  L.  Db 

SiSMONDI. 

'The  excellencies,  defects,  and  fortunes  of  the  gov- 
ernments of  the  Italian  commonwealths,  form  a  body 
of  the  most  valuable  materials  for  political  philosophy. 
It  is  time  that  they  should  be  accessible  to  the  American 
people,  as  they  are  about  to  be  rendered  in  Sismondi's 
maHterly  abridgment.  He  has  done  for  his  large  work 
what  Irving  accomplished  so  well  for  his  Life  of  Colum 
bus."- AVitioan/  Oazette. 

HISTORY  OF  THE  Rr  ;  PROGRESS,  and 

PRESENT  STATL  cp  the  MANUFAC- 

TURES  OF  PORCELAIN  and  GLASS. 

With  numerous  Wood  Cuts. 

"  In  the  design  and  execution  of  the  work,  the  author 
has  displayed  considerable  judgment  and  skill,  and  has 
so  disposed  of  his  valuable  materials  as  to  render  the 
book  attractive  and  instructive  to  the  general  class  of 
readers."— sat.  Ke.  Post. 

The  author  has,  by  a  popular  treatment,  made  it  one 
of  the  most  interesting  books  that  has  been  issued  of 
this  series.  There  are,  we  hrlievc,  few  of  the  useful 
arts  less  generally  underniMid  than  those  of  porcelain 
and  glass  making.  These  are  completely  illustrated  by 
Dr.  Lardner,  und  the  various  procvfses  of  forming  differ- 
ently fashioned  utensils,  are  fully  described." 

HISTORY  OP  the  RISE,  PROGRESS,  and 
PRESENT  STATE  of  the  'RON  and 
STEEL  MANUFACTURE-    (In  press.) 

"  This  volume  np|iears  to  rontain  all  useful  informa- 
tion on  the  subject  of  which  it  treats."— Air.  Oazette. 


SPAIN  AND  PORTU- 


The  HISTORY  or 
GAL.     In  5  vols. 

'A  general  History  of  the  Spanish  and  Portuguese 
Peninsula,  ia  a  great  desideratum  in  our  language,  and 
we  are  glad  to  see  it  bep'jn  under  such  favorable  aus- 
pices.  We  have  seldom  met  with  a  narrative  which 
Axes  attention  more  steadily,  and  bears  the  reader's 
mind  along  more  pleasantly.' 

'  In  the  volumes  Itcfore  ue,  there  is  unquestionable 
evidence  of  capacity  for  the  task,  and  research  in  the 
e.xecution." — U.  S.  Journal. 


HISTORY  OF  SWITZERLAND. 

"  Like  the  preceding  historical  numbers  of  this  valu- 
able publication,  i'.  abounds  with  interesting  details, 
illustrative  of  (ho  habits,  character,  and  political  com- 
plexion of  the  people  and  country  it  describes;  and  af- 
fords, in  the  small  space  of  one  volume,  il  digest  of  all 
the  important  facts  which,  in  more  elaborate  histories, 
occupy  Ave  times  the  space."— Erenia^f  Po::t. 


{ 


r 


I 


TRAVELS,  ANNUALS,  &c. 


NOTES  ON  ITAI.V,  during  the  years  lt«9-;30. 
By  Rkmbranut  1'i:ai.e.    In  1  vol.  8\o. 

"ThiH  nrtim  will  grBtify  nil  rcaannalilc  i-tper«ation ; 
h't  ia  iiviilwr  onlentJitiniia,  nor  ilogmaticnl.  nur  Iihj  iiii- 
iiiitu;  111-  is  ii'it  n  parliaari  imra  car|HT;  l:i'  ailiiiiri-ii  with- 
out wrvilily.  lie  criticises  without  malcvnli-iirr ;  his 
Iraiikiii'^s  mill  K<''>>i  hiiiiior  liivi'  an  ugimmble  color  unil 
KtVeri  icijill  liix  ili'ri<iioni).  and  t  lip  object  of  them ;  hia  iKHik 
I'uvi'a  a  iiavl'iil  eonural  iilvu  of  tlic  iiaiiica,  worka,  anil  de- 
8  rta.  ot'tlu!  gri'at  miiatcra ;  it  la  an  iiii^lruclivc  and  uuter- 
taiiiinii  iiidi'X."— A*ar.  Ga:. 

"  \V<>  li:ivi>  made  a  ro|iiniiac.xtrnrt  in  preceding  cnliimna 
fnnii  thisinlcn'^tiii;  wurkoroiirnMiniiyniHii,  Uuuil)riiiidt 
I'.'.'ili',  riwently  pulilii<lieil.  It  Ii:ih  ri'ccivud  hi|;li  commoii- 
diitiiin  from  ri'i<|)i'C table  aoiirciy.  wliirli  ia  jiistilii'd  by  the 
portions  we  have  seen  extrnc led."  — Commercial Mnerliter. 

"  Mr.  I*"nl«  miiat  h<-  allowed  tli','  rrodit  of  randnr  and 
entire  frii'ilnm  from  atfet'tation  in  the  jndi!nieiilH  lie  liaa 
paiijrd.  At  llie  aame  time,  we  i^liould  not  oiuit  to  notice 
tile  variety,  extent,  and  ininnlenei-a  of  hia  e.vaniina.iona. 
No  rliiircli.  sallery,  or  rollt^clion,  waa  paaaed  by.  and  most 
of  the  individual  pictures  are  aeparattly  and  carefully 
nuliced."— .^la.  (iiiarlerlij  AVeiric, 

FRAGMENTS  or  VOYAGES  and  TRAV- 
ELS, iNcianiNo  vVNEC;i)OTES  of  NAVAI, 

LIFE ;  iutoii.lod  chietly  for  tlie  Use  of  Young 
Persons.  By  B.vsil  Ham.,  Capt.  II.  N.  In 
2  vols,  royal  18nio. 

"  Ilis  voluiues  eonsJKt  of  a  wt'nitsr  of  aiilohioirapliy 
navjil  iuic  Tiliilea,  and  cketi-lies  of  a  M>ine«liat  di.Tiir^ive 
iiiituiv,  wjiicli  we  have  felt  iinich  pliusiire  in  |Kriisiiir.'' 

'  Tlie  title  page  to  these  vuliiincs  indicatea  lliiir  l>eiiii! 
cliielly  iiiteiiiieil  fur  youiiu'  inTsmis.  Iiitl  we  are  niiieli  nii.<- 
taken  if  tlii!  rarr  of  cr.iybearda  will  lie  anioiii;  the  lea^^t 
iiiinieroiM  of  Ih';  readers  if  '  inidsliipmon's  pranks  ami 
llH!  huniurs  of  the  j;reen  room.'  '—Lit.  Oii:eite. 

A  TOUR  IN  AMERICA.    Bv  Basil  Hall, 

Capt.  R.  N.     In  -^  vol.-?.  1-,'nio. 

SKETCHES  OF  CHINA,  with  Ilhistrations 
from  Original  Drawings.  By  W.  \V.  Wood. 
In  1  vol.  l"2nio. 

"  Tlie  reaiiteiir?  of  the  author  in  China,  ilnrln!r  the 
years  Irfitl-*-^  ami  '.'.  has  enabled  liiin  to  rollerl  much 
very  curious  inforinalioii  relative  to  this  sinsular  jn-ople, 
which  he  has  embodied  in  his  work;  and  will  M-rve  to 
gratiiy  the  curioaity  of  many  whose  time  or  dispoailiona 
do  not  allow  them  to  seek,  in  the  voliiininoiia  writin::s  of 
the  Jesuita  and  early  travellers,  the  iiifurination  cmilaiiied 
in  the  present  work.  'J'he  recent  discuasiuii  relative  to 
the  renewal  of  the  lllai-t  India  Company's  Charter.  Iiaa 
e.xcited  much  interest;  and  amoe.g  ourselves,  the  desire 
to  lie  further  acquainted  with  the  subjects  of  'the  Celes- 
tial Knipire,'  lias  been  considerably  augmented." 

EXPEDITION  to  the  SOURCES  op  the 
MISSISSIPPI,  Executed  by  order  of  the 
Government  of  the  United  States.  By  Ma- 
jor S.I  I.  Lo>o.  In2vols.8vo.  With  Plates. 

HISTORICAL,  CHRONOLOCJICAL,  GEO- 
GRAPHICAL,  AND  STATISTICAL  AT- 
LAS OF  NORTH  AND  SOUTH  AMERI- 
CA, AND  THE  WEST  INDIES,  with  all 
their  Divisions  into  Stnte.s  Kingdoms,  &c. 
on  the  Plan  of  Le  Sage,  and  intended  as  a 
companion  to  Lavoisne's  Atlas.  In  1  vol. 
folio,  containing  54  Maps.  Third  Edition, 
improved  and  enlarged. 


to  render  it  worthy  of  the  purpoec  for  which  it 
is  intended. 

EMnELLisHMENT-s. — 1.  Thc  Himgarian  Prin- 
ccfis,  engraved  by  Illinan  and  Pillbrow,  from  n 
jjiicfure  by  Iloli.ies. — 2.  Thc  Bower  of  i'aphos, 
cngnived  by  Ellis,  from  a  picture  by  Martin.— 
3.  The  Duchess  and  Sancho,  engraved  by  Du- 
rand,  from  a  picture  by  Leslie. — 4.  Richard  and 
Saladin,  engraved  by  Ellis,  from  a  picture  by 
Co«jpcr. — 5.  The  Rocky  Mountains,  engraved 
by  Hatch  and  Sniilie,  from  a  picture  by 
Doughty. — (».  Lord  Byron  in  I'iirly  Youth, 
engraved  by  Ellis,  from  n-picture  by  Saunders. 
— 7.  Tiger  Island,  engraved  by  Neagle,  from 


a  picture  by  Stunfield. — H.  The  Blacksmith, 
engraved  by  Kelly,  from  a  picture  by  Neagle. 
— 9.  The  Tight  Shoe,  engraved  by  Kelly,  from 
a  picture  by  Richter. — 10.  Isadore,  engraved 
by  lilinan  and  Pillbrow,  from  a  picture  by 
•Inckson. — 11.  The  Dutch  Maiden,  engraved 
by  NtMgle,  from  a  picture  by  Newton. — li 
Tiio  Mother's  Grave,  engraved  by  Neagle,  from 
a  picture  by  Schaffer. 


ATLAJfTIC  SOUVENIR,  FOR  1832. 

This  volume  is  superbly  bound  in  embossed 
leather,  and  ornamented  with  numerous  plates, 
executed  in  the  best  style,  by  the  first  artists. 
No  expense  has  been  spared  in  the  endeavor 


ATIi.VNTIC  .SOVVEXm  FOR  1831. 

EMiiKi.LisH>iK.vr.s. — 1.  Frontispiece.  The 
Siiipwrocko;!  Family,  cngmvcd  by  Ellis,  from 
a  picture  by  Burnet. — 2.  Shipwreck  off  Fort 
Rouge,  Calais,  engraved  by  Ellis,  from  a  pic- 
ture by  Stanficld. — 'i.  Infancy,  engraved  by 
Kelly,  troni  a  })ictnro  by  Sir  Thomas  Law- 
rence.— I.  Ijady  Jane  Grey,  engraved  by  Kelly, 
from  a  picture  by  Leslie. — 5.  Three  Score  and 
Ten,  engraved  by  Kearny,  from  a  picture  by 
Burnet. — <».  The  Hour  of  Rest,  engraved  by 
Kelly,  from  a  picture  by  Burnet. — 7.  The  Min- 
strel, engraved  by  Eilis,  from  a  picture  by  Les- 
lie.— ^^.  Arcadia,  engraved  by  Kearny,  from  a 
picture  by  Cockerell. — 9.  The  Fisherman's 
Return,  engraved  by  Neagle,  from  a  picture 
by  Collins. — 10.  The  Marchioness  of  Carmar 
then,  granddaughter  of  Charles  Carroll  of  Car 
rollton,  engrave<l  by  Illman  and  Pillbrow,  from 
a  picture  by  Mrs.  AIce.^11.  Morning  among 
the  Hills,  engraved  by  Hatch,  from  a  picture 
by  Doughty. — I'J.  Ijos  Musicos,  engraved  by 
Ellis,  from  a  picture  by  Watteau. 

A  few  copies  of  the  ATLANTIC  SOUVE- 
NIR, f  jr  18,30,  are  still  for  sale. 


THE    SEASONS.     Bv 


THE    BOOK    OF 
William  Howitt. 

"Since  the  publication  of  the  Journal  of  a  Xaturalist, 
no  work  at  once  so  inlerestiiift  and  instructive  as  the 
Uook  of  tlic  t^asons  has  lieen  stilHnittcd  to  the  public. 
Whether  in  reference  to  tlm  utility  of  its  design,  or  the 
grace  and  beauty  of  its  e.xecution,  it  will  amply  merit  the 
(lopularity  it  is  certain  to  obtain.  It  is,  indeed,  cheering 
and  refreahin;;  to  meet  with  such  a  delightful  volume,  so 
full  of  nature  and  truth— in  which  reflection  and  experi- 
encc  derive  aid  from  imagination— in  which  we  are 
taught  much ;  but  in  such  a  manner  as  to  make  it  doubt- 
ful whether  we  have  not  been  amusing  ourselvei  all  the 
time  we  have  been  reading,"— A%k>  Monthly  Magfint. 

"  The  Book  of  tlie  Seasons  is  a  delightful  bock,  and 
recommended  to  all  lovers  o(  aaiate."—Blaekwi0U'$  Mag- 
aiint. 


jc  for  which  it 

injrarian  Prin- 
II  brow,  from  a 
I'cr  of  Paphos, 
;  by  Martin.— 
Bfraved  by  Du- 
L  Richard  and 

a  picture  by 
tins,  engraved 
1  picture  by 
Early  YouUi, 
!  by  tinunders. 

Neagle,  from 
e  Dlacksniith, 
re  by  Neagle. 
by  Kelly,  troBi 
ore,  engraved 
a  picture  by 
ien,  engraved 
Newton. — I'i. 
!  Neagle,  from 


on  1831. 

spiece.     Tlie 

by  Ellis,  frwii 

reck  otf  Fort 

s,  fronii  a  pic- 

engraved  by 

rh.onias  Law- 

ived  by  Kelly, 

ree  Score  and 

a  picture  by 

ensrraved  by 

-T.^TheMin. 

icture  by  Les- 

jarny,  from  a 

Fisherman's 

am  a  picture 

«  of  Carmar- 

irroll  of  Car- 

illbrow,  from 

•ning  among 

im  a  picture 

engraved  by 

[C  SOUVE- 


50NS.     Bv 


a  \aturali8t, 
active  ns  the 
to  tlie  public, 
(leiign,  or  the 
mply  merit  the 
deed,  cheering 
ful  vnluine,  m 
an  and  ex|)erl 
vhkh  we  are 
nake  it  dnuht- 
rselrei  all  the 

Mag^-int. 
fill  bock,  and 

ktcttd'i  Mag- 


PRIV.\T       MEMOIRS   of    NAPOLEON 


JUST  PUBLISHED  BY  CAREY,  LEA,  &  BLANCHARD. 


HON.M'All'ri;,  from  the  French  of  M 
FAivKi->rr  OK  Boukiiienne,  Private  Secre- 
Inry  to  tlie  Emperor.  SKrosD  American 
EnVnoN.  complete  in  one  volume. 

This  edition  cuatains  almost  a  fourth 
mort"  mutter  than  the  previous  one,  as  in  order 
ti)  render  il  as  perfect  as  po.ssible,  extracts  h.ive 


The   bravo,  by  the  author  of  tlie  "  Spy." 
"  Pilot,"  "  Red  Rover,"  &c.  In  2  vols.  PJmo. 

"  I<et  us  iionestly  avow  in  conclusion,  tiiat 
in  addition  to  the  charm  of  an  interest  ii)j»  fic- 
tion to  be  found  in  these  |)age3,  there  is  more 
mental  jwwer  in  them,  more  matter  that  BCtti 
people  thinking,  more  of  that  quality  that  is 
accelerating  the  onward    movement  of   the 


been  -iv.-ii  from  the  xMemoirs  from  St.  Helena,!  ^orld,  ti,^„°i„  ^u  the  Scotch  novel.s  that  have 
Ofliciul  Roijorts,  &(•.  &c.  in  all  cases  where  I  go    deservedly  won  our    admiralLoi.."— AVw 


they  ditler  from  the  statements  of  M.  de  Bour- 
rieniie. 

'•Tliis  Englisli  translation,  which  has  been 
very  titithfully  rendered,  is  still  more  valuable 
than  the  original  work,  as  upon  all  points  where 
any  ohliiiuity  from  other  published  recitals  oc- 
curs, the  translator  has  given  several  accounts, 
and  thus,  in  the  form  of  notes,  we  are  present- 
ed with  the  statements  obtained  from  Napo- 
leon's own  dictation  at  St.  Helena,  from  the 
Memoirs  of  the  Uuke  of  Rovigo,  of  General 
llapp,  of  Constant,  from  the  writings  of  the 
Marqui-s  of  Londonderry,  &c'." — ('.  Scr.  Jour. 

"  Those  who  desire  to  form  a  correct  esti- 
mate of  the  character  of  one  of  the  most  extra- 
ordinary men  "  that  ever  lived  in  the  tide  of 
time,"  will  scarcely  be  without  it.  The  present 
edition  possesses  peculiar  advantages. 

'I'he  peculiar  advantages  of  position  in  re- 
gard to  his  present  subject,  solely  enjoyed  by 
Ai.  de  Bourrienne,  his  literary  accomplish- 
meiils  and  moral  qualifications,  have  already 
o!)riined  fi)r  those  memoirs  the  first  rank  in 
contemporary  and  authentic  history.  In 
France,  where  they  had  been  for  years  ex- 
pected with  an.xiety,  and  where,  since  the 
revolution,  im  work  connected  with  tiiat  peri- 
od or  its  consequent  events  has  created  so 
great  a  sensation,  tlie  volumes  of  Bourrienne 
have,  from  the  first,  been  accepted  as  the 
only  trustworthy  exhibition  of  the  private  life 
anil  political  principles  of  Napoleon. 

"  We  know  from  the  best  political  authority 
now  living  in  England,  that  the  writer's  ac- 
count.* are  perfectly  corrobbrated  by  facts." — 
Lit.  Gaz. 

"  The  only  authentic  Life  of  Napoleon  ex- 
tanl." — Ctmriir. 

"This  splendid  publication  that  literally 
Icave.s  nothing  to  be  desired." — Atlas. 

"These  volumes  may  be  read  with  all  the 
interest  of  a  romuncf ." — Vnuricr. 

"  \o  person  wiio  is  desirous  rightly  to  ap- 
preciate the  character  of  Bonaparte,  will  ne- 
glect the  perusal  of  this  work;  whoever 
wisiies  to  know,  not  merely  the  General  or 
the  Emperor,  but  what  the  man  really  was, 
will  find  him  well  pictured  here."— 7'/«ip,?. 


Napoleon  that  have  appeared." — Aforn.  Post. 
"  As  a  part  of  the  history  of  the  most  ex 
tra.rdinary  man,  and  the  most  extraordinary 
times  that  ever  invited  elucidation,  these  me- 
moirs muit  continue  to  the  latest  ages  to  be 
rotords  of  invaluable  interest." — lAt^Gaz. 


Monthlif  Maifazine. 

"  This  new  novel  from  the  pen  of  our 
countryman,  Coopr,  will  win  new  laurels  for 
him.  It  is  full  of  dramatic  interest — "  hair- 
breadth escapes" — animated  and  bugtiing 
scenes  on  the  canals,  in  the  prisons,  on  the 
Rialto,  in  the  Adriatic,  and  in  tlie  alrecLs  of 
Venice." — N.  Y.  Courier  t^  Entjuirtr. 

"  Of  the  whole  work,  we  may  confidently 
say  that  it  is  very  able — a  pertbrmance  of  ge- 
nius and  power.  — Nat.  Gazette. 

"  The  Bravo  will,  we  tliink,  tend  much  to 
exalt  and  extend  the  fame  of  its  author.  We 
have  hurried  through  its  pages  with  an  avidi- 
ty which  must  find  its  apology  in  the  interest- 
ing character  of  the  incidents  and  the  very 
vivid  and  graphic  style  in  which  they  are  de- 
scribed." 

By  the  same  author. 
The    HEIDEN-MAUER,  or  Paoan   Camp. 

In  2  vols. 
SALMON] A;  or.  Days  of  P'ly  Fishing*  by 

Sir  Hvmphky  Davy. 

"  One  of  the  most  delightful  labors  of  lei- 
sure ever  seen ;  not  a  few  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful piienomena  of  nature  arc  here  lucidly  ex- 
plained.''— Gentleman's  Magazine. 

NATURAL  HISTORY  or  SELBORNE 
and  its  INHABITANTS.  By  the  Rev. 
Gilbert  White.    18ino. 

The  MECHANISM  op  thk  HEAVENS,  by 

Mrs.  Soherville.     In  ISnio. 

"  We  possess  already  innumerable  dus- 
courses  on  Astronomy,  in  which  the  wonders 
of  the  heavens  and  their  laws  are  treated  of: 
but  we  can  say  most  conscientiously  that  we 
are  acquainted  with  none — not  even  Li  Place's 
own  beautiful  expose  in  his  System  tin  Mo7iile, 
— in  which  all  that  is  essentially  interestinij  in 
the  motions  and  laws  of  the  celestial  bodifs,  or 
which  is  capable  of  popular  ennnciatioii,  is  so 
admirably,  so  graphically,  or  we  may  .kmI,  .so 
unaf!ectedly  and  simply  placed  before  us.  *  *  * 
Is  it  asking  too  much  of  Mrs.  Somerville  to  ex- 
press a  hope  that  she  will  allow  this  beautiful 
preliminary  Dissertation  to  be  printed  sepa 


The  completest  personal   recollections  of  rately,  for  the  delight  and  instruction  of  thou- 


sands of  readers,  young  and  old,  who  cannot 
understand,  or  are  too  indolent  to  apply  them 
selves  to  the  more  elaborate  parts  of  the  work  ? 
If  she  will  do  Uiis,  we  hereby  promise  to  ex- 
ert our  best  endeavors  to  make  its  merits 
known." — Lilerary  Gazette. 


. 


r 


MISCELLANEOUS. 


A  MBMOIR  OF  SBBASTIAIT  OABOT,  with 
»  RcTiew  of  the  Hlatorjr  of  Maritime  Dli^ 
eoTerya  niiutrated  bjr  Doeaments  flroai 
the  Rolle«  now  flrst  pnbllehed* 

"  Put  forih  in  ihe  moit  unpretending  manner,  •nd 
without  ■  name,  ihii  work  ii  of  paramount  importance 
to  Ihe  aubjecti  of  which  U  treati."— iUterary  Oai«(t«. 
"The  author  hai  corrected  many  grave  errori,  and  in 
general  given  ui  a  clearer  inniglit  into  traniactioni  of 
conaiderable  nationul  intereitt."— /ft.  "  Will  it  not,"  layi 
the  author,  with  Juit  aitonishmenl,  "  be  deemed  almoit 
incredible,  that  the  very  initrument  in  the  Kecordi  of 
England,  which  recites  the  Great  DiKovery,  aad  plainly 
eontemplalea  a  acbemu  of  Unionization,  should,  up  to 
this  moment,  have  been  tri-ated  liy  her  own  writers  as 
that  which  first  gave  permissinn  to  go  forth  and  explore  7" 
—lb.  "We  must  return  to  investigate  several  collateral 
matters  which  we  think  deserving  of  more  space  than  we 
can  this  week  bestow.  Meanwhile  we  recommend  tbe 
work  as  one  of  great  value  and  interest."— /i. 

"  The  getiernl  reader,  as  well  as  the  navi;;ntor  and  the 
curious,  will  derive  pleasure  and  information  froiU  this 
well-written  production."— Charter. 

"A  s|iecimen  of  honest  inquiry.  It  is  quite  flrightfyil  to 
think  uf  the  number  of  the  inaccuracies  it  exposes :  we 
shall  cease  to  have  cnnftilenre  in  books."  "The  investi- 
gation of  truth  is  not  tin;  ninhion  of  these  times.  But 
every  sincere  inquirer  after  historical  accuracy  ought  to 
purchase  the  liook  as  a  curiosity:  more  false  assertions 
and  inaccurate  statements  were  never  exposed  in  the 
same  cumpau.  It  has  given  us  a  lesson  we  shall  never 
forget,  and  hope  to  profit  by."— Spectator. 


HISTORY  OF  TUB  NORTHMEN,  OR  NOR- 
MANS AND  DANES}  from  the  earUeat 
tlmea  to  the  Conquest  of  England  by 
William  of  Norniand)'>  By  Henry  Wliea- 
t«fk>,  Menaber  of  the  Scandinavian  stnd 
Icelandic  Literary  Societies  of  Copcnha* 
gen* 

Tliis  work  embraces  the  ^eat  leading  features  of  Scan- 
dinavian history,  conimcncinL'  with  tlic  heroic  age,  and 
advancing  from  the  earli(>st  dawn  of  civilization  to  'he 
introduction  of  ChriHtianitv  into  the  Norlli— itx  long  and 
blootly  strife  wiih  Paganism- tlie  diMoovvry  and  coloniza- 
tion of  Iceland.  Grranland,  and  North  America,  by  the 
Norwegian  navigators,  btflbre  tlie  time  of  Columbus— tlM? 
military  and  muriiime  expeditions  of  tlio  Northmen— 
their  early  intRrrnursc  of  commerce  and  war  with  Ciin- 
ulantiiinplp  and  IIm;  Kastern  empire— the  cstnblishmeiit 
of  a  \orninn  Htate  in  F'rancc,  under  Rollo.  and  the  sub- 
jugation of  Eii!,'laiid,  first  by  the  Danes,  under  Canute 
tile  Great,  and  suhseqiiently  by  the  Normnns,  under 
Duke  William,  the  founder  of  the  English  monarvhy. 
It  alHO  routaiiis  an  account  of  the  mythology  and  litora 
tore  of  the  ancient  North— the  Irrlundlc  language  pre 
vailing  all  over  the  Hcandinavinn  countries' until  tbe 
fiirination  of  the  present  living  InngiieM  of  Sweden  and 
Ditnniark- an  aiinlysiH  of  the  foldas.  Saeas,  and  various 
chronicles  and  songs  rclntine  to  the  NorilH^rn  deities  and 
lieroi>!<,  constituting  the  oriziiiul  nie.teriuls  from  which 
the  work  has  been  |iriiiripnll>  compoiicd.  It  is  intended 
to  illustrate  the  history  of  France  and  Kngland  during 
the  middle  aeea,  ami  at  tlio  same  time  to  serve  as  an 
introduction  to  ttiu  modern  liii>tory  of  Uennmrk,  Nor%vay, 
and  S»eden. 


LETTEHS  TO  A  YOV'NG  NATCRALIST, 
on  the  Stndy  of  Nature,  and  Natural  The- 
ology. By  JAMES  1a.  DRUMMOND,  M.  D. 
4ic«    With  nuineroufi  cngravlnga* 

"We  know  of  no  work,  compressed  within  (he  same 
limits,  which  seems  so  happily  calculated  to  generate  in 
a  young  mind,  and  to  renovate  in  the  old,  an  ardent  love 
of  nature  in  all  tier  forms." — Monthly  Review. . 

"  We  cannot  but  eulogize,  in  the  warmest  manner,  the 
endeavor,  and  we  must  sny  tlie  successful  endeavor,  of  a 
man  of  science,  like  Ur.  Drummond,  to  bring  down  ao 
exalted  a  pursuit  to  the  level  of  youthful  faculties,  and  to 
cultivate  a  taste  at  once  so  useful,  virtuous,  and  refined." 
— Ain*  MontUy  Mef. 


PRIVATE  MEMOIRS  or  NAPOLEON  BO 

NAPAllTE,  from  the  French  of  M.  Fauve- 

Lrr  DK  BouBBiBNNE,  Private  Secretary  to 

the  Emperor.  | 

The  peculiar  advanlagea  of  position  in  reninl  lo 

his  present  subject,  solely  enjoyed  by  M.  de  Bourn. 

enne.  his  literaiy  nccomplishmenta  and  moral  quiii- 

ficalions,  have  already  obtained  for  these  memoin  thti 

first  rank  in  contemnorory  and  authentic  history,    hi 

France,  whore  they  had  Ix-en  for  years  expected  wiihl 

anxiety,  niid  where,  sinre  the  revolu'ion,  no  work! 

connected  with  that  period  or  its  consequent  evenii 

has  created  so  great  a  sensation,  the  volumes  of  Bour 

rienne  have,  from  the  fiisi,  been  accepted  us  the  only 

trustworthy  exhibition  of  the  private  life  and  polilical 

principles  of  Napoleon. 

"  We  know  from  the  best  political  authority  now  liv 
ing  in  England,  that  the  writer's  accounts  are  perfect!; 
corroborated  by  facts."— /.it.  Ov.. 

ANNALS  OF  THE  PENINSULAR  CAM- 
PAIGNS,  By  the  Author  of  Cyril  Thokk. 
TON.  In  3  vols.  12mo.  with  plates. 

The  HISTORY  OP  LOUISIANA,  particu. 
larly  of  the  Cession  of  that  Colony  to  the 
United  States  of  North  America ;  with  an 
Introductory  Essay  on  the  Constitution  and 
Government  of  the  United  States,  by  M.  di 
Marbois,  Peer  of  France,  translated  from 
the  French  by  an  American  Citizen.  In 
1  vol.  8vo. 

The  PERSIAN  ADVENTURER.  By  the 
Author  of  the  Kvzzilbash.  In  2  vols.  12ino. 

"  It  is  full  of  glowim;  descriptions  of  Eastern  life."- 
C»ari«r. 

MORALS   OF    PLEASURE,  Illustrated  bj 

Stories  designed  for  Younf;  Persons,  in  1 

vol.  12mo. 

"  The  style  of  the  stories  is  no  /ess  remarkable  fbr  iu 
ease  and  graa'fUlnoss,  than  for  the  delicacy  of  its  humor 
and  its  lieautiful  and  at  times  affecting 'simplicity.  ,A 
lady  mutt  have  written  it— for  it  is  from  the  bosom  of 
woman  nionc,  that  sach  tenderness  of  fueling  and  sucli 
delicacy  of  sentiment— such  sweet  lessons  of  morality- 
such  deep  and  pure  streams  of  virtue  and  piety,  guih 
forth  to  cleanse  the  juvenile  mind  from  the  grosser  impii 
rities  of  our  nature,  and  prepare  tlie  young  for  lives  nf 
usefulness  hcie,  and  happiness  hereaflcr."— A*.  Y.  Co» 
Adterliaer. 

CLARENCE;  a  Tale  of  our  own  Times.  By 
the  Autiior  of  Redwood,  Hope  Leslie,  &c. 
In  2  vols. 

AMERICAN  QUARTERLY  REVIEW,  pub- 
lished on  the  first  of  March,  June,  Septem 
ber,  and  December.     Price  jjS  per  ann. 

*/  A  few  complete  Sets  of  the  Work  are  still  fur 
sale. 

CONSIDERATIONS  ON  THE  CURREN- 
CY  AND  BANKING  SYSTEM  OF  THE 
UNITED  STATES.  By  Albert  Galla- 
tin. 

SONGS  OF  THE  AFFECTIONS.  By  Feucta 
Hbmaiw.  Royal  18mo. 


•ooTT,  cyoomE,  ajkd  w. 


OTOM  IRTXirO. 


BY  sir     VALTER  SCOTT. 


UNT  ROBERT  OP  PARIS,  a  Tale  of 
the  Lower  Empire.    By  the  Author  of  Wa- 
^ivcrley.    In  3  vols. 

The  reader  will  at  once  perceive  that  the  iubject, 

charactpra  and  tlie  iicenei  of  action,  could  nut  have 

m  bettnr  nnlpctcd  for  the  diaplay  of  the  varioua  and  un- 

•lied  powers  of  tlie  author.  All  that  ii  (lorioua  in  aria 

'  splendid  in  anna— the  flitter  of  urmor,  the  ponDp  of 

.  and  the  aplendor  of  chivalry— the  gorgeous  scenery 

the  Uoaphorus— the  ruins  of  Byzantium— the  inagniti- 

ce  of  the  Urecian  capital,  and  tlie  richness  and  vulup- 

lusness  nf  tlM!  imperial  court,  will  rise  before  the  reader 

a  surcvHaion  of  beautiful  and  daatling  images."— Com- 

lai  jUttrtutr. 

JTOBIOGRAPHY    OF   SIR  WALTER 

[SCOTT.     With  a  Portrait 

I'  This  is  a  delightful  volume,  which  cannot  fail  to  sat- 
f  every  reader,  and  of  which  llie  contents  ought  to  be 
own  to  all  those  who  would  be  deemed  conversant  with 
I  lit«...ture  of  our  era."- AVitiraa/  Oatettt. 

ISTORY  OF  SCOTLAND.    In  2  vols. 

'The  History  of  Scotland,  by  Sir  Walter  "Vott,  we  do 
|t  hesitate  to  declare,  will  be,  if  (wssible,  mure  exten- 
«ly  read,  than  the  most  popular  work  of  fiction,  by  Ihe 
ne  prolitlc  author,  and  for  this  obvious  reason :  it  com- 
es much  of  the  brilliant  coloring  of  the  Ivanhoc  pic- 
es of  by  .gone  manners,  and  all  the  grnceOil  facility  of 
he  and  pictureaqueness  of  description  nf  his  otlier 
■rining  rumancvs,  with  a  minute  fldetity  to  the  facts 
f  hinlory,  and  a  searching  scrutiny  into  their  nuthenti- 
ly  and  relative  value,  which  might  put  to  the  blush 
T.  Hume  and  other  prof(<s.sed  hiHtorians.    Such  is  the 
Igic  charm  of  Sir  Walter  ScottV  pen,  it  has  only  to 
uch  the  simplest  incident  of  every-day  life,  and  it  starts 
I  invested  with  all  the  interest  of  a  scene  of  romance  ; 
Id  yet  such  is  his  fidelity  to  the  text  of  nature,  that  the 
niuhta,  and  serfs,  and  collared  fools  with  whom  his  in- 
tivv  genius  has  peopled  an  many  volumes,  ure  regarded 
r  us  as  not  mere  creations  of  fancy,  but  as  real  flesh  and 
ooil  existences,  with  all  the  virtues,  feelings  and  errors 
Ipf  cuininunplace  humanity."— Air.  Oazelte. 

PALES  OF  A  GRANDFATHER,  beinjj  a 
series  from  Frencli  IliHtory.  By  tlie  Author 
of  Waverley. 


BY  MR.  COOPER. 


[•HE  BRAVO.    By  tlie  Author  of  tlie  Spy, 
Pii,OT,  &c.  In  2  vols. 

The  WATER. witch,  or  tub  SKIMMER 

OF  THE  SEAS.     In  2  vols. 

"We  have  no  hesitation  in  classing  this  among  the 
nost  powi-rful  of  the  romances  of  our  coiintrj-man."— 
Ir.  States  Gazette. 

|tHE  IIEIDENMAUER;  or.  The  Benedic- 

TINES.      2  vols. 

liVeto  Editions  of  the  following  Works  by  the 
same  Author. 

[NOTIONS  OF  THE  AMERICANS,  by  a 
Travelling  Bachelor,  2  vols.  12mo. 

I  The  wept  OP  WISH-TON-WISH,  2  vols. 
r2mo. 

I  The  red  ROVER,  2  vols.  12nio. 
The  spy,  2  vols.  12mo. 
The  PIONEERS,  2  vol&  12mo. 
The  PILOT,  a  Tale  of  the  Sea,  2  vols.  I2mo. 


UONEL  UNCOLN,  on  the  LEAGUER  or 
BOSTON,  2  vols. 

The  LAST  or  thi  MOHICANS,  2  vola. 
12nio. 

The  PRAIRIE,  2  vols.  12mo. 


BY  WASHINGTON  IRVING. 


VOYAGES    and   ADVENTURES  o»  the 

COMPANIONS    OF   COLUMBUS.     By 

Washinoton  Irvino,   Author  of  the  Lire 

of  Columbus,  &.C.  1  vol.  8vo. 

"Of  the  main  work  we  may  repeat  that  it  posaasaes 
Ihe  value  of  important  history  and  the  magnetism  of  ro- 
mantic adventure.  It  sustains  in  every  respi^ct  tlie  repu- 
lation  of  Irving."  "  We  nmy  hope  that  the  gifted  author 
will  treat  in  like  manner  tlio  enterprises  and  exploits  of.' 
Pizarro  and  Curies ;  and  thus  complete  a  serlea  of  elegaiit 
recitals,  which  will  contribute  to  the  especial  graliflca- 
tion  of  Americans,  and  form  an  imperishable  fund  of 
delightflil  instruction  for  all  ages  and  countries."— AVil. 
Oazelte. 

"  As  he  leads  ns  flrom  one  savage  tribe  to  anotlier,  as 
he  paints  auccesaivc  scenes  of  lieroism,  perseverance  and 
self-denial,  as  lie  wanders  among  the  majiiiiticeiit  scenes 
of  nature,  as  lie  relates  with  M-rHpulous  tidelity  the 
errors,  and  the  crinK's,  even  of  those  wliose  lives  are  fur 
the  most  part  marked  with  traits  to  command  admira- 
tion, and  perhaps  esteem — everywiiere  we  find  him  the 
same  iindeviating,  hut  beautiful  moralist,  gallicring  from 
every  incident  some  lesson  to  present  in  striking  lan- 
guage tu  ti.e  reason  and  the  lieart."— .4»i.  Quarterlf  He- 
vieit. 

"  This  is  a  delightful  volume ;  for  the  preface  truly  says 
that  tlie  expeditions  narrated  and  springing  nut  of  the 
voyages  of  Columbus  may  ht-  compared  with  attempts  of 
adventurous  knights-errant  to  achieve  the  enterprise  left 
unfinished  by  some  illustrious  predecessors.  Washington 
Irving's  name  is  a  pledge  how  well  their  stories  will  be 
told :  Olid  we  only  regret  that  we  must  of  necessity  defer 
our  extracts  fur  a  wetik."— London  Lit.  Oazette. 

A  CHRONICLE  of  the  CONQUEST  or 

GREINADA.       By    Washington    Irvino, 

Esq.     In  2  vols. 

"  On  the  whole,  this  work  will  sustain  the  high  fame 
of  Washington  Irving.  It  fills  a  blank  in  the  historical 
library  which  ought  not  to  have  remained  so  long  a 
blank.  Tlic  language  llirougliout  is  at  once  chaste  and 
animated  ;  and  the  narrative  may  be  said,  like  Spenser's 
Fairy  Queen,  to  present  one  long  gallery  of  splendid  pic- 
tures."— Land.  Lit.  Oazette. 

"Collecting  his  materials  from  various  historians,  and 
adopting  in  some  degree  tlic  tone  and  manner  of  a  monlt- 
ish  chronicler,  he  has  embodied  them  in  a  narrative  wliich 
in  manner  reminds  us  nf  the  rich  and  storied  pages  of 
Froissart.  He  dwells  on  <he  feats  of  chivalry  performed 
by  the  Christian  Knights,  with  .ill  the  ardor  which  might 
be  expected  from  a  priest,  who  mixed,  according  to  Ihe 
usage  of  the  times,  not  only  in  the  palaces  of  courtly 
nobles,  and  their  gay  festivals,  as  an  honored  and  wel- 
come guest,  but  who  wns  their  companion  in  the  camp, 
and  their  spiritual  and  indeed  bodily  comforter  and  us- 
listant  in  Hie  field  nf  battle.- jfin.  QvartcWy  Heriew. 

New  Editions  of  the  following  Works  by  the 
same  Author. 

The  SKETCH  BOOK,  2  vols.  12mo. 

KNICKERBOCKER'S  HISTORY  or  NEW 
YORK,  revised  and  corrected.    2  vols. 

BRACEBRIDGE  HALL,  or  the  HUMOR- 
ISTS, 2  vols.  12mo. 

TALES  OF  A  TRAVELLER,  2  vols.  12ma 


•^mm 


.') 


f. 


CLAflSICAL  LITERATURE. 


INTRODUCTION  to  the  STUDY  of  the 
GREEK  CLASSIC  POETS,  for  the  use  of 
Youn^  Persona  at  School  or  Collegfc. 

Contentt. — General  Introduction;  Ho- 
meric Questions;  Life  of  Homer;  Iliad; 
Odyssey;  Margites;  Bntrachomyomachia ; 
Hymns ;  Hesiwl.  By  Henry  Nelson  Cole- 
ridge. 

"  Vfv  have  been  hifthly  plt-Rwd  with  thii  little  vnliime. 
Thii  work  iiippliei  a  want  which  we  have  often  painrully 
felt,  anil  rifliirilM  a  manual  which  we  ahnuld  Rlarily  M-e 
placed  ill  the  hand*  nf  every  <-inhry<i  undergraduate. 
VVi!  look  rorward  to  the  next  portion  of  ihii  work  with 
wry  eager  and  impatient  expectation."— AritiM  Critic 

"  Mr.  Colcridge'i  work  not  only  drm-rvci  the  praise  or 
clear,  eloquent  and  ncholar  like  exposition  or  the  prelimi- 
nary matter,  which  ia  neceniary  in  order  to  understand 
auil  enter  into  the  character  of  tlic  sreat  I'oet  nf  anti- 
quity; but  it  lian  likewiw  llie  more  rare  merit  of  being 
admirably  adapted  for  its  acknowledged  pur|)oic.  It  ia 
written  in  thai  fresh  and  ardent  siiirit,  which  to  the  eon- 
itcnial  mine:  of  youth,  will  convey  instruction  in  the 
most  i>ieciive  manner,  hy  awakening  the  desire  of  it; 
and  by  <  nlistiiig  tlie  lively  and  liiioyunt  feelincit  in  the 
cause  of  useful  and  improving  study;  while,  hy  its  preg- 
nant brevity,  it  is  more  likeiy  to  Hiimulate  than  to  super- 
sede more  profound  and  extensive  research.  If  tlien,  as  it 
is  avowcilly  intended  fur  the  use  of  tlie  younger  readers 
of  llonier.  and,  as  it  is  im|H>Ksible  not  to  discover,  with  a 
more  particular  view  to  the  great  utIkk)!  to  which  the  au- 
thor owes  his  education,  we  shall  he  much  miblaken  if  it 
diK'S  not  liecome  ns  popular  a  it  will  be  iiaefUl  in  that 
celebrated  estaklislinient."— Qaarler/y  Hevieio. 

"  We  sincerely  hope  that  Mr.  Coleridge  will  favor  us 
with  a  continuation  uf  his  work,  which  he  promises." — 
GtHt.  Mag. 

"  The  author  of  this  elegant  volume  has  collected  a  vapt 
mass  of  valuable  information.  To  tlic  higher  classes  of 
the  public  schools,  and  yoiin:;  men  of  universities,  this 
volume  will  be  eH|iccially  valuable ;  ns  it  will  afford  nn 
agri^eable  ri'lief  of  light  readinc  to  more  grave  stuilies,  at 
onrc  instructive  and  entertaining."— ircWcyoN  Melhodiat 
.Magaiiiit. 

ATLAS  OF  ANCIENT  GEOGRAPHY,  con- 
sistinnr  of  21  Colored  Maps,  with  a  complete 
Accentuated  Index.  By  S.\.mi;el  Butler, 
D.  D.,  F.  R.  S.  (fcc.  Archdeacon  of  Derby. 

By  the  same  Author.  \ 

GEOGR.'KPHIA  CLASSICA:  a  Sketch  of 
Ancient  Geograpiiy,  fur  tJie  Use  of  Schools. 
In  dvo. 

Extract  of  a  Letter  from  Professor  Stuart  of 
Andovor. 

"  I  have  iis'd  Butler's  Atl!i»  Classict  for  12  or  14  yeors. 
and  prefer  it  on  tli.^*  score  of  convunience  and  correctness 
10  any  alias  within  the  conip.iss  of  my  knowliHlec.  It 
is  evidently  a  work  of  much  cure  nnd  taiite,  and  most 
happily  .idaptcd  tncla^sical  readers  and  indeetl  all  others, 
whii  ronsnlt  the  history  of  past  ase«.  I  liuve  long  clK'rish- 
ed  a  strong  desire  to  hc<!  tlie  work  broucht  forward  in  this 
country,  and  I  nin  cxceedinidy  grntilied  that  you  have 
carried  through  this  iiiidertakini;.  'I'lie  beautiful  iiianner 
in  which  the  specimen  is  executed  that  you  have  sent  me 
does  great  credit  to  engravers  and  publistliers.  It  cannot 
be  thiit  our  schools  nnd  colle'.;es  tvill  fail  to  adopt  this 
work,  and  bring  it  into  very  general  circulation.  I  know 
of  none  which  in  all  res|iects  would  supply  its  place." 

"The  abridged  but  classical  and  excellent  work  of  But- 
ler, on  Ancient  Geography,  which  you  are  printing  as  an 
Bcconipnninient  to  the  maps,  I  consider  one  of  iIm  most 
attractive  works  of  the  kind,  esp<-cially  for  young  (lersons 
studying  the  classics,  that  has  come  under  in^  notice.  I 
wish  you  the  most  ample  success  in  tliese  liighly  useful 
publications." 


MECHANICS,  MANVFACnmES,  A, 


A  PRACTICAL  TREATISE  on  RAIll 
ROADS,  AND  INTERIOR  COMMU.vJ 
CATION  It*  GENERAL— containing  tl 
account  of  the  performances  of  the  diflor'/ 
Locomotive  Engines  at,  and  subsequent  ; 
the  Liverpool  Contest;  upwards  of  tr^ 
hundred  and  sixty  Experiments  with  Tabi- 
of  the  comparative  value  of  Canals  and  Rt.. 
roads,  and  the  power  of  the  present  Locoin  ' 
tive  Engines.  By  Nicholas  Wood,  Collier 
Viewer,  Member  of  the  Institution  of  CitJ 
Engineers,  &c.  dvo.  with  plates. 

"  In  this,  the  able  author  has  brought  up  his  treilia-^ 
tlic  date  of  the  latest  imprnveinenls  in  this  natiooti-j 
important  plan.    We  consider  the  volume  to  be  one  ; 
great  general  interest."— jUt.  Oat. 

"We  must,  injustice,  refer  the  reader  to  tb«  wotj 
itself,  strongly  assuring  him  that,  whether  he  be  a  man 
scie.ice,  or  one  totally  unacquainted  with  its  techur. 
difticultii'S,  he  will  liere  receive  instruction  and  pleaiu^ 
in  a  degree  which  we  have  seldom  seen  united  before.  - 
Monthly  Htv. 

REPORTS  on  LOCOMOTIVE  and  FIXEI 
ENGINES.      By    J.   Stephknhon    and  . 
Walker,  Civil  Engineers.    With  an  .K{ 
count  of  the  Liverpool  and  Manchester  Rai  J 
road,  by  H,  Booth.    In  dvo.  with  plate:> 

MILLWRIGHT  and  MILLEP'?  GUIDE 
By  Oliver  Evans.  New  Edition,  with  ac 
ditions  and  corrections,  by  the  Professor  c: 
Mechanics  in  the  Franklin  Institute  &: 
Pennsylvania,  and  a  description  of  an  in. 
proved  Merchant  Flour-Mill,  with  engrav 
ings,  by  C.  &  O.  Evans,  Engineers. 

THE  NATURE  and  PROPERTIES  of  tk  ^ 
SUGAR  CANE,  with  Practical  Directiotl 
for  its  Culture,  and  the  Manufacture  of  \-< 
various  Products;  detailing  the  improvK  : 
Methods  of  Extracting,  Boiling,  Refininj 
and  Distilling;  also  Descriptions  of  thelfe, 
Machinery,  and  useful  Directions  for  thr' 

g'       eiieral  Management  of  Estates.  ByGEORuu 
.iciiardson  Porter. 

"This  volume  contains  a  valuable  nin!>s  of  scienlii 
and  practical  informatioii,  and  is.  indwd,  a  lompendiuil 
of  everything  interesting  relative  to  colonial  ugricultuitl 
and  manufacture." — liiteUigtnctr. 

"We  can  altogether  recommend  this  vnliiine  ns  a  nii«| 
valuable  addition  to  (he  library  of  ili"  luiiiii'  Wi-st  Iiidiij 
merchant,  as  well  as  that  of  the  reyiiJent  pluntrr."— It 
Oa-.tue. 

"This  work  may  In-  considered  one  nf  the  most  valii.r 
lile  books  that  has  yet  i.isiied  from  llie  \,\v>»  comreclF': 
with  colonial  interests;  inilecd.  we  know  of  no  grenlri 
service  we  could  render  West  India  prnprietors,  than  in 
recommending  tlie  study  of  Mr,  Porter's  volume."— j^iet 
Itttor. 

"  Tlie  work  before  ns  contains  such  valuable,  scientific. 
and  practical  ir. 'Urination,  that  we  have  no  doubt  it  wiil 
find  a  place  in  the  library  of  every  planter  and  prr$i)ii 
connected  with  our  sugar  colonies."— .iVanfA/y  Jtfof  a:is(. 

A  TREATISE  on  MECHANICS.  By  James 
Renwick,  Esq.  Professor  of  Natural  and 
Experimental  Philosophy,  Columbia  College, 
N.  Y.    In  dvo.  with  numerous  engravings, 


f 


V 


ACTURESt  4t,| 


nSE    on    RAIL 
OR   COMMUM 

iL— conlaininff 
:cB  of  the  differpj 
ind  subsequent 
upwanls   or  tt| 
munts  with  TabM 
>f  Canals  and  IU.1 
le  present  Locom? 
AS  Wood,  Collier 
nstitution  of  Civ  j 
h  plates. 


ufht  uphii  trpatiK'j 
iln  III  lliii  nationt 
volume  to  be  one 

reader  to  the  w«r  | 
hcthitr  he  be  a  man 
i-il  with  it*  terhiiK.  ^ 
(ruction  and  pleoiu? 
iieeu  united  before. .  i 


[VE  AND  FIXEI 
iPUKNRON    and  . 
I.     With  an  At) 
Manchester  Rai- 
3.  with  plateo. 

iLEP"^   GUIDE 
Edition,  with  ac-) 

the  Professor  ki 
:lin    Institute  «< 
iption  of  an  in.  ' 
ill,  with  engra. 

igineers. 

:RTIES  of  th! 

Ictical  Directior.. 

nufacture  of  r.. 
the  improvec 

iling,  Refininj 
Itions  of  thelte.i 

ections  for  tini 
Ites.  ByGEORciJ 


ninss  of  scientij' 

|n<!d,  a  coinpeiKliuBl 

>lonjiil  agricultuitl 

I  volume  no  a  mml 

liuiiii'  VVust  iiitliil 

bit  (iluntiT."— JLk] 

J>f  thp  most  valiia 
ic  [.if.-n  coiinettM 
|i>«'  of  no  erentrr 
iiprieliirs,  than  in 
Is  volume."— f/jef 

jiliiablv,  .irientifir. 
'  no  doubt  it  will 
^iiti-r  and  person 
VnlAly  Jttagtt-.int. 

Is.    By  James 

J  Natural  and 
|inbia  College, 
engravings. 


^ 


N  A  U  II A  T  I  V  E 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


AND  HEEUING'S  STRAIT, 


TO    CO-OPEBATE    WITH 


IHE  POLAR  EXi  iiDITIONS 


% 


PERFORMED    IN 


Ills  MAJESTY'S  SHIP  BLOSSOM, 


UNDER    THE    COMMAND    OF 


CAPTAIN    F.   VV.   BEECHEY,  R.  N. 

F.R.S.  cr-c. 


IN  THE  YEARS  1825,  20,  27,  28. 


PIJRLISHED  CV  AUTHORITY  OP  THE  LORDS  COMMISSIONERS 
OP  THE  ADMIRALTY. 


PHILADELPHIA : 

CAREY  &  LEA-CHESNUT  STREET. 
1832. 


; 


i; 


S^  /O  0  0 


/ 


AMHERST: 
PRINTED   BY  J.    s.  U  C.    ADAMS. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  1. 

Departure  from  England — Tencriffe — Sun  eclipsed — Fernanda  Norhona — Make 
the  Coast  of  Brazil — Rio  Janeiro — Passage  round  Cape  Huru — Conception — Valpa- 
raiso      ......  ...  Page  13 

CHAPTER  II. 

Leave  the  Coast  of  Chili — Visit  Sala-y-Gomez — Easter  Island — Hostile  Reception 
there — Description  of  the  Inhabitants,  Island,  &c. — Enter  the  dangerous  Arcliipela- 
go — Davis'  Island — Elizabeth  or  Henderson's  Island,  its  singular  Formation — See 
Pitcairn  Island  ...  .....  33 


CHAPTER  III. 

Pitcairn  Island — Adams  and  natives  come  off  to  the  Ship — Adams'  Account  of  the 
Mutiny  of  the  Bounty — Lieutenant  Bligh  sent  aflrill  in  the  Launch — Mutineers  pro- 
ceed to  Tobouai — Hostile  Reception  there — Proceed  to  Otahcite — Ret  urn  to  Tobouai 
— Again  quit  it,  and  return  to  Otahcite — Christian  determines  to  proceed  to  Pitcairn 
Island — Lands  there — Fate  of  the  ship — Insurrection  among  the  blacks — Mutineers 
— ^Adams  dangerously  wounded — Fate  of  the  remaining  Mutineers  .  53 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Bounty  Bay  — Observatory  landod — Manners,  Customs,  Occupations,  Amusements 
&c.  of  the  Natives — Village — Description  of  tlie  Island — Its  produce — Marriage  of 
Adams — Barge  hoisted  out — Departure — General  Description  .  .         70 

CHAPTER  V. 

Visit  Oeno  Island — Description  of  it — Lot  ^  of  a  Boat  and  one  Se.amen — Narrow 
escape  of  the  Crew — Crescent  Island — Gumbicr  Groupe — Visited  by  Natives  on 
Rafts — Discover  a  Passage  into  the  Lagoon — Ship  enters — Interview  with  the  Na- 
tives— Anchor  off  two  Streams  of  Water — Visited  by  the  Natives — Theft — Commu- 
nication with  them  suspended — Morai — Manner  of  preserving  the  Dead — Idols  and 
Places  of  Worship  ........        95 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Second  interview  with  the  Natives — Visit  to  the  principal  Village-Bodies  exposed 
to  dry — Areglie  or  Chief — Lieutenant  Wainwright  attac''edby  Natives — Advantage 
of  the  Port — Further  Description  of  the  Island,  its  Soil  and  productions  .   114 


201477 


^'''^J^Tf' 


IV 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


Quit  Gambicr  Islands — Visit  Lord  Hood's  Island — Wr.tcr-Spout — Clermont  Ton- 
ncrc — Description  of  tlio  Tsliuid  iind  Natives,  Canoe,  &c. —  Scrlc  Lsland — Whitsun- 
day Island — Lagoon  Island — Thrum  Cap  Island — Egniont  Islanl — Discover  Har- 
row Island  ;  Description  of  it — Carysfort  Island — Discover  Cockbnrn  Island — Osna- 
burgh  Island — Find  the  Wreck  of  the  Matild.a — Bligh's  Lagoon  Island — Discovery 
of  Byam  Martin  Island — Meet  a  Party  of  Chain  Islanders  there — Mystery  attached 
to  their  History — Take  two  of  thcni  onboard  the  Ship — Gloucester  Island — See  Bow 
lalund.  131 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Boat  sent  to  examine  the  Channel  into  Bow  Island — Lag'oon — Unexpected  Inter- 
view between  Suwarri  and  his  Brother. — A  Pearl  Brig  at  anchor  in  the  Lagoon — 
Mystery  attached  to  the  Byam  Martin  Islanders  dispelled — Their  interesting  History, 
extensive  Wanderings  and  sufferings — Sequel  of  Tuwarri's  History — Ship  enters  the 
Lagoon — Description  of  the  Island — A  short  Account  of  the  Natives — Visit  several 
other  coral  Islands,  and  discover  Melville  and  Croker  Islands — Remarks  on  the  Dis- 
coveries of  Cook,  Wallifl,  Carteret,  &c. — Peculiarities  of  the  coral  Islands — Arrival 
at  Otaheitc  ........  UO 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Proceedings  at  Otaheitc — The  Ship  visited  by  the  Queen  Regent,  the  Royal  Fam- 
ily, and  several  Chiefs — Short  Account  of  the  Chiefs  since  Captain  Cook's  Visit — 
Successful  Issue  of  a  Dispute  with  tiic  Government  'especting  the  Detention  of  a 
trading  Vessel — Visit  to  the  Queen  Regent's  House — Present  Conditiimof  the  Chiefs 
and  of  the  Inhabitants — Superstitions — Trial  of  Natives  for  Theft  of  the  Ship's  Store 
— The  King  visits  the  Ship — Lake  and  Moral  of  Mirapaye — Dance  exhibitad  by  a 
Party  of  New  Zeulauders — Considerations  on  the  Effect  of  Christianity    .  175 

CHAPTER  X. 

Departure  from  Otaheitc — Arrival  at  Woahoo,  Sandwich  Islands— Contrast  between 
tho  two  Countries — Visit  the  King  and  Pitt — Departure — Oneehow — Passage  to 
Petropaulski — Bcering's  Island — St.  Lawrence  Island — Esquimaux — King's  Island 
— Diomede  Islands — Pass  Becring's  Strait — Arrive  in  Kotzebue  Sound — Anchor  off 
Chamisso  Island — Ice  Formation  in  Escholtz   Bav  .  .  .  I'JK 


Pi 
PI 

Zl 

d1 


Pr 

ee 


to 
vii 


CPAPTER  XI. 

Quit  Kotzebue  Sound,  and  jvrocecd  to  survey  the,  coast  to  the  Northward — Inter- 
views with  the  natives — Cape  '1  homson — Point  Hope — Current — Capes  sabine  and 
Beaufort — Barrier  of  Ice — Icy  Cape — Advanced  Position  of  the  ship — Discover  Cape 
Franklin,  Wainwright  In!et,  Shoals  off  Icy  Cape,  &c. — Boat  sent  on  an  Expedition 
along  the  Coast— Return  of  the  Ship  to  Kotzebue  Sound — Interviews  with  the  Esqui- 
maux— Boat  rejoins  the  Ship — Important  Results  of  her  Expedition  .  ^24 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Interesting  Narrative  of  the  Boat  Bxpedition — Point  Barrow — Near  Approach'  to 
Captain  Franklin — Beset  by  tiie  Ice — Perilous  Siluotiun  and  fortunate  Release  of 
the  Barge —  Terrific  Gale — Rejoin  the  Shij) — Further  Examination  of  Kotzebue 
Sound — Discover  Buckland  River —  Mammoth  Bones — Ice  Forniation — Approach  of 


ih 
on 
its 
of 


bi 
pn 
S( 
tl) 
til 


CONTENTS  V 

Winter  oWig'cs  the  Ship  to  quit  the  Sound — Rrpass  Bcering's  Strait — Gale — Pro- 
ceed t  o  the  Southward — FuturePlans — Make  St.  Paul's  Island — Aleutian  lalands — 
Pass  throgh  Oouemak  Channel — Arrive  off  San  Francisco  in  California  .     2G0 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Arrive  at  San  Francisco — Description  of  the  Harbour,  Presidio,  and  the  missions 
— Occupations — Dissatisfied  State  of  the  Garrison  and  the  Priesthood — Contempla- 
ted Plan  of  settling  tiic  Indians  in  the  Missions — Occupations  of  the  converted  Indi- 
fing — Manner  of  making'  Converts — Expcditon  against  the  Tribe  of  Coscmcns — 
Official  Dcsptach — Overland  Journev  to  Monterey — Scarcity  of  Provisions  at  that 
place — Plan  of  the  Voyage  altered  in  consequence — Departure      .  .  202 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Observations  on  the  Country  of  California  and  its  Trade — Climate — Meteorolog- 
ical Remarks — Short  Account  of  the  Wild  Indians — Natural  Productions — Monte- 
rey— Mission  of  San  Carlos — Departure     .....  331 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Passage  to  the  Sandwich  Islands — Woahoo^Historical  Sketch  of  the  Islands — 
Progress  in  Civilization — Sandal  Wood — Resources  of  the  Government — Slow 
Progrcs  of  Education — Efforts  of  the  Missionaries — Unsuccessful  Result  of  their 
Zeal — Sentiments  of  the  King  and  Chiefs — Entertainment  given  by  the  King — 
Death  of  Krymakoo — Wailing  Scene — Departure  of  Kahumana  for  Owyhee         345 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Further  Remarks  on  the  Inhabitants — Treaty  of  Alliance — Climate — Medicina' 
Properties  of  the  Ava — Supplies — Departure — Passage  to  China — Ladrone  and  Bash 
cc  Islands — Arrival  at  Macao — Transactions  there — Departure — Botel  Tobago  Xima 
— Arrival  at  the  Great  Loo  Choo  .  .  .  .  ,        .  3C'« 

CHAPTER  XVn. 

Appearance  of  Loo  Choo— Visits  of  the  Natives — Deputation — Permission  given 
to  land — Excursions  into  the  Country — Discover  Money  in  circulation — Mandarin 
visits  the  ship — Departure  of  a  Junk  with  Tribute — Visit  of  the  Mandarin  returned 
— Further  Intercourse — Transactions  of  the  Ship — Departure — Observations  upon 
the  Religion,  Manners,  and  Customs  of  the  People  ;  upon  their  Laws,  Money,  Weap- 
ons, and  Punishments  ;  their  Manufactures  and  Trade — Remarks  upon  the  Country 
its  Productions,  and  Climate — Directions  for  entering  the  Port — Historical  Sketcli 
of  the  Kingdom  of  Loo  Choo  ......  370 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Passage  from  Loo  Choo  eastward — Arrive  at  Port  Ll6yd  in  the  Yslas  del  Arzo- 
bispo — Description  of  those  Islands — Passage  to  Kamschatka — Arrival  at  Pctro- 
paulski  Notice  of  thai  Place — Departure — Pass  Beering's  Strait— Enter  Kotzebuc 
Sound — Prosecute  the  Voyage  to  the  Northward — Stopped  by  the  Ice — Ri'turn  to 
the  Sout'~ward — Discover  Port  Clarence  and  Grantlcy  Harbour — Description  of 
these  Harbours — Return  to  Kotzebuc  Sound — Ship  strikes  upon  a  Shoal      .      430 


v*4<!>.: 


f 


VI 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Arrive  at  Chamisso  Island — Find  the  Barge  Wrecked — Lieutenant  Belcher'a 
Proceeding's — Conduct  of  the  Natives — Approacli  of  Winter — Final  Departure  from 
the  Polar  Sea — Observations  upon  the  Probability  of  the  North- West  Passage  from 
the  Pacific — Remarks  upon  the  Tribe  inhabiting'  the  North- West-Coast  of  America 
— Return  to  California — Touch  at  San  Bias,  Valparaiso,  Coquimbo,  Rio  Janeiro — 
Cunclusion  .........        458 


\.     [ 


Bnant  Belcher's 
Departure  from 
8t  Passage  from 
oaat  of  America 
I,  Rio  Janeiro — 
458 


Note. 

In  presenting  to  the  public  a  new  edifinn  ^r  *u;.  ■  . 
popular  work,  the  PubHshe^  feel  bound™  Lf^t.T""^  T^ 


I  I 


I 


TO  THE  KING. 


In  availing  myself  of  Your  Majesty's  gracious  permis- 
sion to  dedicate  this  work  to  your  Majesty,  I  feel  that  I 
am  performing  a  most  pleasing  duty. 

The  claims  of  Your  Majesty's  family  on  the  gratitude 
of  the  nation,  for  the  efficient  patronage  they  have  afford- 
ed to  maritime  discovery,  require  merely  to  be  alluded 
to,  to  ensure  the  attention  of  every  well-wisher  to  his 
countiy. 

Under  a  less  powerful  Sovereign  than  your  Royal 
Father,  the  voyages  of  Cook  and  Vancouver,  in  all  prob- 
ability, would  never  have  been  projected,  and  could 
hardly  have  prospered  ;  while  it  is  certain  that  the  ex- 
peditions of  rarry  and  Franklin  owed  their  chief  distinc- 
tion to  the  enlightened  encouragement  of  His  late  Majesty. 

But  these  great  enterprises — so  productive  of  national 
renown — so  extensively  useful  in  diifusing  the  blessings  of 
civilization  over  distant  and  savage  lands — and  so  emi- 
nently beneficial  to  the  cause  of  science  and  of  commerce, 
could  never  have  been  successfully  accomplished,  had  not 

VOL.    I.  1 


11 


DEDICATION. 


the  character  of  the  Navy  been  habitually  maintained  at, 
perhaps,  the  highest  level  which  human  exertion  is  capa- 
ole  ol  reaching. 

To  produce  this  generous  spirit,  ho.wever,  and  to  pre- 
serve it  entire  wiien  once  created,  there  was  required,  on 
the  part  of  the  Royal  Family,  some  signal  example  of 
personal  sacrifice  to  the  popular  service  of  the  country. 
And  although  it  would  be  very  presumptuous  in  any  one 
to  pretend  to  estimate  the  advantages  which  the  profes- 
sion has  derived,  in  our  own  days,  from  Your  Majesty 
having  condescended  to  become  one  of  its  working  mem- 
bers, there  can  be  no  doubt,  that  in  all  future  times,  the 
British  Navy  will  retain  the  salutary  impression,  and  cher- 
ish the  remembrance  of  this  high  honour. 

May  it  please  Your  Majesty, 
Your  Majesty's 

most  dutiful  servant, 
most  grateful 
and  most  faithful  subject, 

FREDERICK  WILLIAM  BEECHEY. 


I  I 


if 


'^f 


intained  at, 
ion  is  capa- 


and  to  pre- 
equiied,  on 
xample  of 
he  country, 
in  any  one 
he  piofes- 
r  Majesty 
king  mem- 
times,  the 
I,  and  chei- 


'if 


^HEY. 


INTRODUCTION. 


The  discovery  of  a  north-west  passage  to  the  Pacific  had  for  some 
j'ears  occupied  the  attention  of  the  British  government  and  of  the 
public  at  large,  and  several  brilliant  attempts  had  been  made  both  by 
sea  and  by  land  to  ascertain  the  practicability  of  its  navigation,  which, 
though  conducted  with  a  zeal  and  perseverance  that  will  transmit 
them  to  the  latest  posterity,  had,  from  insurmountable  difficulties,  fail- 
ed of  success. 

In  1834.  His  late  Majesty  having  commanded  that  another  attempt 
should  be  made  by  way  of  Prince  Regent's  Inlet,  an  expedition  was 
equipped — the  last  that  sailed  upon  this  intciesting  service — and  the 
command  again  conferred  upon  Captain  Parry,  whose  exploits  have  so 
deservedly  earned  him  the  approbation  of  his  country.  At  the  same 
time  Captain  Franklin,  undaunted  by  his  former  perilous  expedition, 
and  by  the  magnitude  of  the  contemplated  undertaking,  having  with 
the  promptness  and  perseverance  peculiar  to  his  character,  proposed  to 
connect  his  brilliant  discoveries  at  the  mouth  of  the  Coppermine  River 
with  the  furthest  known  point  on  the  western  side  of  America,  by  descend- 
ing the  Mackenzie  River,  and,  with  the  assistance  of  his  intrepid  asso- 
ciate, Dr.  Richardson,  by  coasting  the  northern  shore  in  opposite  direc- 
tions towards  the  two  previously  discovered  points.  His  late  Majesty 
was  also  pleased  to  command  that  this  expedition  should  be  simulta- 
neously undertaken. 

From  the  nature  of  those  services  it  wa<^  nearly  impossible  that  either 
of  these  expeditions  could  arrive  at  the  open  soa  in  Beering's  Strait, 
without  having  nearly,  if  not  wliolly,  exhausted  their  resources  ;  and 
Captain  Franklin's  party  being,  in  addition,  destitute  of  a  conveyance 
to  a  place  whence  it  could  return  to  Europe.     To  obviate  these   antici- 


■*       .is 


I 


•1 


IV 


INTUOIJU'CTION. 


4 


(■^ 


li 


1, 


\'  . 


li- 


I 


i 


pated  diflicullics,  Itis  Majesty'H  government  determined  upon  sending  a 
Bhip  to  Becring's  Strait  to  await  tlic  arrival  of  tlic  two  expeditions. 

As  tiiis  vessel  would  traverse,  in  her  route,  a  portion  of  the  globe 
hitherto  little  explored,  and  as  a  considerable  period  must  nece.  rily 
elapse  before  her  presence  would  be  required  in  the  north,  it  was  inten- 
ded to  employ  her  in  surveying  and  exploring  such  parts  of  the  Pacific 
as  were  within  her  reach,  and  were  of  the  most  consequence  to  naviga- 
tion. 

The  vessel  selected  for  this  service  was  his  Majesty's  ship  Blossom, 
of  twenty -six  guns,  but  on  this  occasion  mounting  only  sixteen  ;  and  on 
the  12th  of  January,  1825,  I  had  the  honour  of  being  appointed  to  the 
command  of  her.  The  following  o/Rcers,  most  of  them  men  distin- 
guished for  their  abilities,  were  placed  under  my  orders,  viz. — 


Lieutenant, 

Ditto, 

Lieutenant, 
Mastei; 
SuT'ffeon,     . 
Purser, 

Adm  iralty 
Mates, 

Midshipmen^ 


George  Peard. 
Edw.    IJelcher,  Sn- 
pernnmeranj     and 
Asxi'ilmit  Sitrvcyor. 
John  Wainwright. 
Thomas  Elson. 
Alex.  Collie. 
George  Marsh. 
■  J.  F.  Gould,* 
William  Smyth, 
James  Wolfe. 
John  Kendall, 
Richard  IJ.  Beochy. 


Naturalist, 


George  T-  Lay. 


Assistant  Surgeon,  Thomas  Ncilson. 


Clerks,     .     . 
Volant.  \st  Class 

Ditto,  2d  Class, 

Gunner, 
Boatswain, 
Carpenter,     . 


^  John  Evans, 
\  Chas.  H.  Osmcr. 

John  Crawley. 

John  Hockley. 

J.  C.  Barlow. 

Charles  Lewis. 

John  Richardson. 

James  Clarkson. 
Thos.  Garrett. 


To  these  were  added  such  a  number  of  seamen,  marines,  and  boys,  as, 
with  the  exception  of  the  supcrnumciaries,  would  form  a  complement 
of  a  hundred  and  ten  persons  ;  but  in  consequence  of  the  weakness  of 
our  crew  when  collected,  I  was  permitted  to  discharge  ten  of  the  most 
inefficient  ;  a  reduction  which,  without  sensibly  diminishing  the 
strength  of  our  crew,  materially  increased  the  duration  of  our  stock  of 
provisions,  and  in  the  sequel  proved  of  the  most  happy  consequence. 

The  ship  was  partially  strengthened,  and  otherwise  adapted  to  the 
service,  by  increasing  her  stowage.  A  boat  was  supplied,  to  be  used  as 
a  tender,  and  for  this  purpose  she  was  made  as  large  as  the  space  on 
the  deck  would  allow.  She  was  rigged  as  a  schooner,  decked,  and  fit- 
ted in  the  most  complete  manner,  and  reflected  great  credit  upon  Mr. 
Peake,  the  master-shipwright  of  Woolwich  dock-yard,  who  moddelled 
and  built  her. 

♦Tliis  valuable  young  officer  was  obliged  to  quit  ihe  ship  at  Rio  Janerio  on  ac- 
count of  his  health. 


i 


'    II  m'liwwi 


INTROUl'CTlON. 


I  sending  a 

itions. 
the  globe 

iiece.  rily 
was  inten- 
the  Pacific 

!  to  naviga- 

p  Dlossom, 
en ;  and  on 
ntcd  to  the 
len   distin- 


c  T.  Lay. 
las  Neiison. 
Evans, 
H.  Osmcr. 
Crawley. 
Hockley. 
Uarlow. 
es  Lewis, 
lichardsoii. 
Clarkson. 
[jiarrett. 


boys,  as, 
implement 
;akncs3  of 

the  most 
[hing    the 

stock  of 
luence. 

id  to  the 
^e  used  as 
[space  on 
|,  and   fit- 

iipon  Mr. 

loddelled 

lio  on    ac- 


* 

4B 


To  the  usual  allowance  of  provision  was  added  a  variety  of  anti- 
scorbutics. Cloth,  beads,  cutlery,  and  other  articles  of  traffic,  were  put 
on  board  ;  and  two  fowling-pieces,  embossed  with  silver,  and  fitted  in 
the  most  complete  manner,  were  supplied  as  presents  to  the  kings  of 
the  Society  and  Sandwich  Islands.  The  College  of  Surgeons  sent  bot- 
tles of  spirits  for  the  preservation  of  specimens,  and  the  Horticultural 
Society  enhanced  our  extra  stores  with  a  box  of  seeds  properly  pre- 
pared for  keeping. 

The  seaman  were  furnished  with  two  suits  of  clothes  gratis,  and  were 
allowed  the  further  privilege  of  having  six  months'  wages  in  advance. 

In  the  equipment  of  all  the  expeditions  of  this  nature  it  has  been  the 
good  fortune  of  the  oflicers  engaged  in  them  to  meet  with  the  utmost 
courtesy  and  attention  to  their  wishes  from  the  departments  which 
have  the  power  so  materially  to  contribute  to  their  comfort ;  and  I  take 
this  opportunity  of  expresjing  my  sincere  thanks  to  Sir  G.  Cockburn 
and  the  other  Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty,  to  Sir  Thomas 
Byam  Martin,  and  the  Commissioners  of  the  Navy  and  Victualling 
Boards,  for  the  readiness  with  which  they  at  all  times  complied  with 
my  requests. 

Being  in  every  respect  ready,  on  the  19th  May  I  received  the  follow- 
ing instructions  from  the  Lords  Commissioners  of  the  Admiralty  : — 

*'  By  the  Commissioners  for  executing  the  office  of  Lord  High  Ad- 
miral of  the  United  Kingdom  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland  &c. 

"  Whereas  it  is  our  intention  that  his  majesty's  sloop  Blossom,  under 
your  command,  should  be  at  Beering's  Strait  in  the  Autumn  of  1826, 
and,  contingently,  in  that  of  1837,  for  the  purpose  of  affording  such  as- 
sistance as  may  be  required,  either  by  Captain  Pairy  or  Captain  Frank- 
Jin,  should  one  or  both  of  those  officers  make  their  appearance  in  that 
neighbourhood.  You  are  hereby  required  and  ('•-  cted  to  put  to  sea  in 
the  said  sloop,  so  soon  as  in  every  respect  ready,  and  observe  the  fol- 
lowing instrutcions  for  your  guidance  : — 

"  You  are  to  proceed  with  all  convenient  expedition  to  Rio  Janeiro, 
where  you  are  to  complete  your  provisions  and  water  ;  after  which  you 
are  to  make  the  best  of  your  way  round  Cape  Horn,  and  endeavour  to 
make  Easter  Island  ;  from  whence  you  are  to  take  your  departure, 
steering  for  tlie  Society  Islands,  and  passing  near  the  spot  where  Gomez 
Island  appears  in  the  charts,  in  order  to  ascertain  whether  such  island 
has  any  existence  ;  and,  in  like  manner,  whether  Ducle's  and  Elizabeth 
Islands  be  not  one  and  the  same.  You  will  then  proceed  to  Pitcairn's 
Island  at  the  south-eastern  extremity  of  the  groupe  of  the  Society  Isl- 
ands, or,  as  they  are  sometimes  called,  the  Georgian  Islands,  where  you 
will   commence  a  survey  of  this  gioupe,  proceeding  north-westerly   to 


.  rir' 


•«• 


•    w 


;-.     fr. 


i 


i^  \ 


M-"^ 


N(l 


h: 


'i  , 


VI 


INTROOL'CTION. 


Otalioite.  In  the  execution  of  this  survey  it  may  be  found  most  ad  vianblc 
to  nnclior,  if  ])ructicublc,  every  evening,  under  one  of  the  ishmds,  in  oidcr 
tliut  tlie  jituution  of  tlie  ship  niuy,  by  tiiese  nieuns,  be  more  secure,  and 
that  you  may  be  ccrtu'  "•iit  none  of  them  are  passed  by  you  unobserv- 
ed. If,  however,  you  ...  dd  experience  any  diflicully  in  pursuing  the 
route  herein  pointed  out  from  the  prevailing  wiiuis,  you  will  make  the 
best  of  yout  way  to  Otaheite,  and  proceed  from  thence  in  your  survey 
to  Pitcairn'a  Island. 

"  During  your  slay  among  these  or  any  other  of  tlie  islands  of  the 
Pacific  which  you  may  visit,  you  arc  to  use  every  possible  endeavour  to 
preserve  an  amicable  intercourse  with  tiic  natives,  and  to  caution  your 
officers  and  ship's  company  to  avoid  giving  oflencc  or  engaging  in  dis- 
putes with  them  ;  and  you  are  to  show  them  on  all  occasions  every  act 
of  kindness  that  may  be  in  your  power,  taking  care  that  when  any  pur- 
chases, by  barter  or  otherwise,  arc  made,  an  officer  of  the  ship  may  al- 
ways be  present  to  prevent  disputes  :  and  you  are  particularly  to  im- 
press on  the  minds  of  your  officeis  and  men  the  necessity  of  being  ex- 
tremely guarded  in  their  intcreoiirsc  with  the  females  of  those  places, 
80  as  to  avoid  exciting  tiie  jealousy  of  llie  men. 

"  Having  completed  tlie  survey  of  this  groupe  of  islands,  if  you  find 
that  your  time  will  admit  of  it,  you  are  to  direct  your  course  to  the 
Navigator's  Islands,  settling  in  your  way  thither  the  true  position  of 
Suwarrow's  Islands ;  from  whence,  in  your  progress  to  the  northward,  you 
will  touch  at  Owhyhee,  to  deliver  the  despatches  and  packages  address- 
ed by  the  Foreign  Office  for  his  Majesty's  consul  at  that  island,  and  to 
procure  refreshments  and  water. 

"  You  are  however,  to  be  particularly  careful  not  to  prolong  your 
stay  at  any  of  those  islands,  so  as  to  retard  your  arrival  at  the  appoint- 
ed rendezvous  in  neering's  Stiait  later  than  the  lOlli  July,  I82()  ; 
which  period,  together  with  the  rendezvous,  has  been  fixed  by  Captain 
Franklin  and  yourself,  by  a  nienioraiidum,  a  copy  of  which  is  annexed, 
and  we  desire  and  'Urect  you  to  i)ay  particular  attention  to  the  the  va- 
rious matters  contained  therein. 

"  You  arc  to  remain  at  the  said  appointed  rendezvous  until  the  end 
of  October;  or  to  as  late  a  period  as  the  season  will  admit,  without  in- 
curring the  risk  of  being  obliged  to  winter  there,  provided  you  shall 
hear  nothing  of  Captain  Franklin  or  his  party  ;  but  in  the  event  of  his 
joining,  you  are  to  receive  him  and  his  party  onboard,  and  convey  him 
either  to  Kamtschatka,  the  Sandwich  Islands,  Panama,  or  to  China,  as 
he  may  determine,  in  order  to  procure  a  further  conveyance  to  England. 
If,  however,  you  should  receive  certain  intelligence  of  Captain  Parry 
having  passed  through  Beering's  Strait  into  the  Pacific,  you  are  in  that 
case  to  proceed  with  the  Blossom  round  Cape  Horn,  and  bring  Captain 
Franklin  and  his  party  to  England  ;  touching  at  Callao,  and  such  other 
ports  on  the  western  coast  of  .South  Ameiica  as  you  may  deem  proper 
for  refreshments,  intelligence,  &e. 

"  In  the  foriuer  event,  namely,  of  your  leaving  Bcering's  Strait  with 
Captain  Franklin  hv.*  M-ithout  having  obtained  any  intelligence  of  Cap- 
tain Parry,  you  arc  to  comjnete  your  water  and  provisions  at  the  place 


%, 


^/i 


I] 


'  ■!■  ^Mmj-w-^   "■  iiiiLipii 


Iff- 


iNTnont'cTioN. 


VII 


lostadvisnblc 
uids,  ill  Older 
i  secure,  and 
on  unobsorv- 
piirsuing  tlie 
Mil  innkc  the 
your  Hiirvey 

lands  of  the 
endeavour  to 
caution  your 
iging  in  dis- 
na  every  act 
icn  any  pur- 
diip  may  al- 
larly  to  im- 
)f  being  cx- 
lose   places, 

if  you  find 
urse  to  the 
!  position  of 
thward,  you 
^'cs  addross- 
itnd,  and  to 

:)long   your 

[he  appoint- 

ily,    1820; 

Captain 

annexed, 

he  the  va- 

1  the  end 

ithout  in- 

you    shall 

cut  of  his 

)nvcy  him 

-hina,  as 

S^ngland. 

in  Parry 

in  that 

Captain 

ich  other 

m  proper 

rait  with 
of  Cap- 
he  place 


to  whicli  you  convey  Captain  Franklin  ;  or  in  the  event  of  your  hearing 
nothing  either  of  Captains  Franklin  or  Parry,  previous  to  the  seiisoa 
obliging  y(»u  to  leave  Ucering's  Strait  in  iN'-iO,  you  are  to  proceed  to 
Bueh  place  nn  you  may  deem  most  eligible  and  convenient  for  complet- 
ing your  provisions  and  water  ;  taking  care  in  either  of  the  lust  men- 
tioned cases  to  be  again  in  Heering's  Strait  by  the  Ist  August,  1827, 
calling  in  your  way  thither  again  at  Owhyhee,  at  wbich  place  Captain 
Parry  has  l)een  directed  to  give  the  preference  of  touching  in  his  way 
homeward,  for  the  purpose  of  affording  you  intelligence  of  him. 

"  If  you  should  find  that  Captain  Parry  has  passed,  or  should  he  pass 
after  joining  you,  and  that  you  have  heard  nothing  of  Captain  Franklin, 
you  are,  nevertheless,  to  proceed  to,  or  remain  at  (as  the  case  may  be) 
Beeriug's  Strait,  in  the  autumn  of  1827,  as  already  directed,  following 
in  all  respects  the  directions  already  given  for  your  conduct  in  the  au- 
tumn of  182(J. 

"  In  order  that  you  may  be  put  in  full  possession  of  that  part  of  our 
instructions  to  Captain  Parry  which  relates  to  his  arrivnl  in  Beering'a 
Strait,  we  enclose  you  herewith  an  extract  from  them,  as  also  a  copy 
of  a  '  Memorandum,'  drawn  up  by  Caj)tain  Parry,  and  dated  '  Hccia, 
Davis'  Strait,  June,  1824  ;'  to  both  of  which  "ve  desire  to  call  your  par- 
ticular attention,  in  order  that  you  may  govern  your  proceedings  accor- 
dingly. 

"  Having  remained  in  Beering's  Strait  as  late  in  the  autumn  of  1827 
as  the  season  will  admit,  and  withou*  risking  the  clianee  of  being  oblig- 
ed to  winter  on  account  of  the  ice,  ^ou  are  to  proceed  to  England  by 
the  route  before  directed  ;  reporting  to  our  secretary  your  arrival,  and 
transmitting  the  journals  of  yourself  and  officers  for  our  information. 

"  In  the  prosecution  of  your  voyage  out,  and  during  your  stay  in  the 
Pacific,  you  are  to  be  particular  in  noticing  the  dijf'erencea  of  longi- 
tude given  by  your  chronometers,  from  any  one  place  to  another,  which 
you  may  visit  in  succession. 

"  As  we  have  appointed  Mr.  Tradescant  Lay  as  naturalist  on  the 
voyage,  and  some  of  your  ofllcers  are  acquainted  with  certain  branches 
of  natural  history,  it  is  expected  that  your  visits  to  the  numerouo 
islands  of  the  Pacific  will  aflTord  the  means  of  collecting  rare  and  curi- 
ous specimens   in   the  several   departments  of  this  branch  of    science. 

You  are  to  cause  it  to  be  understood  that  two  specimens,  at  least,  of 
each  article  are  to  be  reserved  for  the  public  museums  ;  after  which  the 
naturalist  and  oflicers  will  be  at  liberty  to  collect  for  themselves.  You 
will  pay  every  attention  in  your  power  to  the  preservation  of  the  va- 
rious specimens  of  natural  history,  and  on  your  arrival  in  England  trans- 
mit them  to  this  oflSce  ;  and  if,  on  your  arrival  al  any  place  in  the 
course  of  your  voyage,  you  should  meet  with  a  safe  conveyance  to 
Engl«>nd,  you  are  to  avail  yourself  of  it  to  send  home  any  despatches 
you  may  have,  accompanied  by  journals,  charts,  drawings,  &e.,  and 
such  specimens  of  natural  history  as  may  have  been  collected.  And  you 
will,  on  each  of  your  visits  to  Owhyhee,  deliver  to  his  Majesty's  consul 
at  that  place  duplicates  of  all  your  previous  collections  and  documents, 
to  be  transmitted  by  him,  by  the  first  safe  opportunity,  to  England. 


'1^'  -^ 


.*.  tt".^«.-. 


V 


nr* 


VIU 


INTRODUCTION". 


I  -I 


"In  the  event  of  England  becoming  involved  in  hostilities  with  any 
other  power  during  your  absence,  you  are,  nevertheless,  clearly  to  i.nder- 
stand  that  you  are  not  on  any  account  to  commit  any  hostile  act  whatso- 
ever ;  the  vessel  you  command  being  sent  out  only  for  the  purpose  of 
discovery  and  science,  and  it  being  the  practice  of  all  civilized  nations 
to  consider  vessels  so  employed  as  excluded  from  the  operations  of  war: 
and,  confiding  in  this  general  feeling,  we  should  trust  that  you  would 
receive  every  assistance  from  the  ships  or  subjects  of  any  foreign  power 
which  you  may  fall  in  with. 

"  On  your  return  home  you  will  proceed  to  Spithead,  informing  our 
secretary  of  your  arrival. 

"  Given  under  our  hands,  the  11th  of  May,  1825. 

"  MELVILLE. 
WM.  JOHNSTONE  HOPE. 
G.  COCKBURN. 
G.  CLERK. 
\V.  R.  K.  DOUGLAS. 

"To  Frederick  William  Bcechy,  Esq. 
Commander  of  his  Majesty's  Sloop  Blossom,  at  Spithead. 


"  By  Command  of  their  lordships. 


"J.  W.  CROCKER." 


I    : 


'•I    ; 


'i       fro 
th( 


h 


<r  + 


•Vie 


iNxr  'irjcTiON. 


IX 


?s  with  any 
ly  to  under- 
act Avhatso- 
B  purpose  of 
ized  nations 
ions  of  war: 
t  you  would 
reign  power 

forming  our 


E  HOPE. 


AS. 


KER." 


MEMORANDUM  ACCOMPANYING  THE  INSTRUCTIONS. 

"  We  deem  it  advisable  tV.af  the  ship  should  be  in  Bearing's  Strait  by 
the  10th  of  July,  and  that  she  snould  remain  at  some  appointed  rendez- 
vous until  the  end  of  October,  or  to  as  late  a  period  as  the  season  will 
admit,  without  incurring  the  risk  of  being  obliged  to  winter  there. 

"  At  present  we  know  of  but  one  place  on  the  eastern  shore  of  the 
strait  whicli  we  can  recommend  ;.s  a  rendezvous  for  both  parties,  viz. 
Kotzebue's  Sound  ;  there  it  appears  the  ship  may  remain  wiih  all  winds. 
Desirable  as  it  is  to  take  up  a  more  notherly  position  than  this,  in  order 
that  the  voyage  of  Captain  Franklin's  party  in  open  boats  may  be 
shortened  ;  yet,  admitting  the  possibility  of  deep  inlets  on  the  coast,  it 
if?  evident  that  the  boats  of  Captain  Franklin  would  have  more  difficul- 
ty in  searching  for  the  ship  in  them  than  in  proceeding  at  once  to  the 
above-mentioned  sound  ;  and  the  ceitainty  of  finding  the  ship  at  a  fixed 
point  would  be  more  satisfactory  to  Captain  Franklin. 

"  In  order,  however,  to  lessen  as  far  as  possible  the  difficulties  ot  the 
land  party  (still  preserving  the  fixed  rendezvous),  it  is  recommended 
that  a  party,  well  armed,  and  having  a  supply  of  provisions  and  fuel, 
shall  be  left  at  Chamisso  Island  with  a  boat  ;  or,  if  it  be  necessary,  the 
defences  of  the  island  may  be  stengthened  by  the  two  forecastle  guns, 
which,  with  a  strong  boat's  crew,  will  be  sufficient  to  protect  the  only 
landing-place  in  the  island  against  any  force  the  natives  can  bring, 
should  they  be  hostile.* 

"Leaving  this  party  at  the  rendezvous,  the  Blossom  may  proceed  to 
examine  the  coast,  assisted  by  her  decked  launch,  keeping  in-shore  of 
her;  and  signals  can  then  be  regularly  placed  on  every  conspicuous 
cape  or  height,  according  to  the  mode  agreed  upon,  for  the  purpose  of 
directing  Captain  Franklin's  attention  to  bottles  containing  written  in- 
formation, which  will  be  buried  at  each  station. 

"  in  this  manner  it  is  proposed,  circumstances  permitting,  to  navigate 
from  Kotzebue's  Sound  northward,  and  then  eastward  as  far  as  the  state  of 
the  ice  will  allow,  following  up  every  opening,  and  never  quitting  the 
main  shore.  The  distance  to  which  the  ship  can  proceed  to  the  east- 
ward will  be  limited  by  the  lateness  of  the  season,  and  the  necessity  of 
avoiding  the  hazard  of  being  beset  in  the  ice  and  obliged  to  winter, 

"  Fog-signals  and  night-lights  will  of  course  be  established  between 
the  launch  and  the  ship  ;  and  should  the  launch  part  company  with  the 
ship,  it  will  proceed  to  the  last  formed  signal  statitm,  and  there  await 
the  junction  of  the  ship  ;  but  if  she  does  not  arrive  there  in  five  days, 
the  launch  is  to  prosecute  the  voyage  along  shore,  in  search  of  Captain 
Franklin,  but  not  to  go  so  far  as  to  put  the  certainty  of  returning  to 
Chamisso  Island  by  the  30th  of  September  at  any  risk,  by  which   date 

♦This  erroneous  idea  waa  sugg-csted  by  Captain  Kotzebue's  account  of  the  ialftDcL 
arising-  no  doubt  from  a  bad  translation. 
VOL.    I.  j^ 


i 


INTUODUCTION 


'fl 


w 


I     ■>     f 


the  ship  will  also  have  arrived  there  ;  and  Captain  Franklin  will  proceed 
to  the  same  place  should  he  not  have  mot  either  the  ship  or  launch  be- 
fore. 

"  During  the  time  the  Blossom  remains  in  Kotzebue  Soimd,  a  party 
will  be  directed  to  proceed  inland  on  a  north  course,  if  practicable,  in 
order  that  should  the  coast  oi'  the  Polar  Sea  be  within  reasonable  dis- 
tance, signals  may  be  erected  upon  the  heights  for  Captain  Franklin, 
whose  pany  may  by  this  means  be  spared  a  long  journey  round  the 
N.  W.  promontory  of  America.  At  this  and  every  other  station  where 
information  is  deposited  of  Captain  Beechey,  it  is  advisable  that  a  re- 
quest in  the  Russian  language  be  also  placed,  that  this  information  be 
not  taken  away,  or  the  signals  disturbed. 

"  Since  the  transmission  of  tlie  above,  Captain  Franklin  has  received 
his  instructions  from  Earl  Bathnrst,  the  contents  of  which  have  been 
made  known  to  Captain  Beechey,  and  the  only  addition  which  we  think 
necessary  to  make  is,  that  in  tlie  event  of  Captain  Franklin  arriving  at 
an  early  period  at  ley  Cape,  or  at  the  N.  W.  extremity  of  America,  or 
in  the  longitude  of  Icy  Cape  (l()l"  42'  W.)  and  returning  the  same 
season  to  his  former  winter  quarters,  he  will,  in  the  above-mentioned 
meridian,  erect,  a  signal,  and  bury  a  bottle  containing  the  information 
of  his  having  done  sc  for  Captain  Beechey's  gui  Jance. 

(Signed)  "  JOHN  FRANKLIN,  Captain. 

F.W.  BEECHEY,  Commander,    His 
Majesty's  Sloop  Blossom. 
Woohcich,  lOth  February,  1825." 


h 

P 
n 
I 


US 


After  the  receipt  of  these  instructions,  I  took  an  early  opportunity 
of  communicating  to  the  oflicers  under  my  command  the  sentiments 
of  their  lordships,  contained  in  the  twelfth  paragraph.  How  satisfacto- 
rily these  expectations  were  fulfilled,  must  appear  from  the  manner  in 
which  their  lordships  have  m;  <ed  their  approbation  of  their  conduct. 
\s  commander  of  the  expedition,  however,  1  am  happy  of  an  opportuni- 
ty of  again  bearing  testimony  to  their  diligence,  and  of  expressing  my 
thanks  for  the  assistance  I  derived  during  the  voyage  from  their  exer- 
tions. They  are  especially  due  to  my  first  lieutenant,  Mr.  Peard,  upon 
whom  much  additional  duty  devolved,  in  consequence  of  my  attention  be- 
ing in  some  measure  devoted  to  other  objects  of  the  expedition:  to  Lieuten- 
ant Belcher  and  Mr.  Elson,  the  master,  for  their  indefatigable  attention 
to  the  minor  branches  of  surveying;  and  to  the  former,  again,  for  his 
assistance  in  geological  researches:  to  Lieutenant  Wain'.vvight  for  his 
as  ronomical  observations;  to  Mr.  Collie  for  his  unremitting  attention  to 
natural  history,  meteorology,  and  geology  ;  to  Mr.  James  Wolfe,  for  his 
at  endance  at  tlie  observatory  and  the  construction  of  charts;  and,  lastly, 
to  Messrs.  Smyth  and  Richard  Beechey,  for  the  devotion  of  their  leis- 
ure time  to  drawing. 

On  the  return  of  the  expc-dition  to  Enland,  the  journals  and  papers 
of  the  officers  were  placed  in  my  hands  by  the  Admiralty,  with  direc- 
tions to  publish  an  account  of  the  vojage-  1  found  those  of  Messrs. 
Collie  and  Belcher  to  contain  much  U!>eful   information  on  the  above- 


i5 


'■'■>:         i 


if  i 


H 


y«ip^" 


KNTRODLCTION. 


XI 


will  proceed 
r  launch  be- 
nd, a  party 
iclicable,  in 
sonable  dig- 
in  Franklin, 
y  round  the 
ation  where 
e  tiiat  a  re- 
ormation  be 

las  received 
have  been 
ch  we  think 
arriving  at 
America,  or 
[  the  same 
3-nientioned 
information 

in. 

lander,    His 

ossoni. 


jopportiniity 
sentiments 

satisfacto- 
manner  in 
ir  conduct, 
opportuni- 
essing  my 
their  exer- 
eard,  upon 
tention  be- 
loLieuten- 

attention 
n,  for  his 
ht  for  his 
llt(Mition  to 
jife,  for  liis 

nd,  lastly, 

their  leis- 

id  papers 
nih  direc- 
\{  Messrs. 
le  above- 


*u 


mentioned  branches  of  science,  and  m  other  respects  I  have  derived 
much  assistance  from  their  remarks,  and  also  from  those  in  tne  journals 
of  Messrs.  Evans,  Smyth,  aiul  IJeechey.  I  have  in  grncral  noticed  these 
obligations  in  the  course  of  my  n;irnillvc:  but  as  tliis  could  nut  ahv.;ys 
be  done  without  inconvenience  lo  tiic  rcadf.r,  I  lake  this  opportunity 
of  more  fully  rxprcssiiis  luy  ackuowledgemcuts. 

In  the  compilation  I  have  endeavoured  to  combine  information  use- 
ful to  the  philosoplicr  with  remarks  tliat  I  irust  may  prove  advan- 
tageous to  the  seaman,  and  to  convey  to  tlie  general  reader  the  imjires- 
sions  producedupon  my  mind  at  the  moment  of  eaeh  occurrence.  Ilnw 
far  I  have  succeeded  in  aequiitinu  myself  of  the  tiisk  my  duty  eomiielled 
me  to  undertake,  I  must  leave  to  the  i)ublic  to  decide,  and  sliall  conclude 
with  expressing  a  liopc  that  my  very  early  entry  intu  the  service 
may  be  taken  in  extenuation  of  any  faults  tliey  may  discover. 

The  collections  of  botanical  and  other  s;iecimens  »f  natural  history 
have  been  reserved  for  sepaiate  vohiines,  being  far  too  numercus  to  form 
part  of  an  Appendix  lo  tiie  present  narrative.  His  .Maie^ly's  gov.  if 
ment  having  liberally  appropriated  a  sum  of  money  to  their  publication, 
I  ho|)e,  with  the  assistance  of  several  eminent  gcutlemei.,  who  have 
kindly  and  generously  ollered  to  describe  them,  shortly  to  be  able  to 
present  them  to  the  public,  illustrated  by  engraving^!  iiy  the  first  artists. 
The  botany,  of  which  the  first  number  has  already  been  published,  is 
in  the  iiands  of  Dr.  Hooker,  professor,  of  Botany,  at  Glasgow,  who  in 
addition  to  having  devoted  the  wlnde  of  his  lime  to  our  collection,  has 
borne  with  the  numerous  difliciilties  and  disiijjpointments  which  have 
attended  the  progress  of  the  publication  of  this  branch  of  natural  his- 
tory, and  my  thanks  on  this  account  arc  the  more  especially  due  to 
him  in  particular.  The  department  wliich  he  has  so  kindly  undertaken 
will  extend  to  ten  numbers  4lo.  ;  making,  in  the  whole,  about  500  pages, 
and  100  plates  of  plants,  wholly  new,  or  such  as  have  been  hitherto 
imperfectly  described. 

The  other  branches  of  natural  history  are  under  the  care  of  Messrs. 
N.  A.  Vigors,  Edward  Bennelt,  J.  I'],  (.ray,  Richard  Owen,  Dr.  Rich- 
ardson, R.  N.,  and  Mr.  T.  Jiay,  the  naturalist  to  llie  expedition,  and  the 
geology  of  Professor  IJucklund  and  Captain  nehdier,  R.  N. ;  to  all  of 
whom  I  must  express  my  warmest  thanks,  for  their  cordial  assistance, 
and  for  the  ready  and  handsome  manner  in  which  thry  liavc  taken  upon 
themselves  the  task  of  describing  and  of  superintending  ttie  delineation 
of  the  various  specimens.  Their  contribiilious  will  form  another  4to. 
voh:me  of  species  entirely  new,  or,  as  before,  of  such  a-i  have  been  im- 
perfectly described.  The  public  in  general  are  not  aware  how  much 
is  due  to  these  gentlemen,  witliMut  whose  zeal  nnd  aid  they  would  be 
deprived  of  much  useful  knowledge:  for,  notwithstanding  the  liberal  as- 
sistance of  his  Majesty's  government,  there  is  so  little  encoiiiagenient 
for  works  of  the  above  mentioned  description,  that  they  could  not  be 
published  unless  the  contributions  were  gratuitously  ottered  to  the  pub- 
lishers. 


w 


■■■IMMI 


mmmmmm 


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l#. 


(-■J 


<n#- 


VOYAGE 


TO    THK 


PACIFIC  AND  BEERING'S  STRAIT. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Departure  from  England— Tcneriffe — Sun  eclipsed— Fernanda  Norhona— Make 
the  Coast  of  Brazil— Rio  Janeiro— Passage  round  Cape  Horn— Conception- 
Valparaiso. 

On  the  19th  of  May  1825,  we  weighed  from  Spithead,  and  the 
following  afternoon  took  our  parting  view  of  the  Devonshire  coast, 
and  steered  out  of  the  Channel  with  a  fair  wind.  For  several  days 
afterwards  out  progress  was  impeded  by  boisterous  weather,  for 
which  the  approach  to  the  Bay  of  Biscay  has  long  been  proverbial. 
We  however  escaped  tolerably  well,  and  favorable  breezes  soon  suc- 
'ceeding,  we  advanced  to  the  southward. 

On  the  30th  we  ascertained,  by  running  over  the  spot  in  a  fine 
clear  day,  that  a  reef  of  rocks,  named  the  Eight  Stones,  did  not  ex- 
ist in  the  situation  which  it  has  for  a  number  of  years  occupied  in 
our  charts :  the  next  morning  we  passed  the  Desertas,  and  on  the 
1st  of  June  were  off  TenerifFe. 

As  I  purposed  touching  at  Santa  Cruz,  we  immediately  hauled  up 
for  the  land,  and  it  was  a  fortunate  circumstance  that  we  did  so,  for 
so  strong  a  current  set  to  the  southward  during  the  night,  that  had 
we  trusted  to  our  reckoning,  the  port  would  have  been  passed,  and 
there  woulJ  have  been  much  difficulty  in  regaining  it.  I  mention 
the  circumstance  with  a  view  of  bringing  into  notice  the  great 
southerly  set  that  usually  attends  the  passage  of  ships  from  Cape 
Finisterre  southward.  From  this  cape  to  Point  Naga,  our  error  in 
that  direction,  or  more  correctly  S.  33°  W.,  was  not  less  than  ninety 
miles.  I  do  not  stop  to  inquire  into  the  cause  of  this  great  tendency 
of  the  water  to  the  equator,  which  might  probably  be  traced  to  the 


;1 


•'*•• 


14 


VOYA<ir,    TO    Tin:    PACIFIC 


[June, 


% 


A 

4 


r' 


,1 


iii 


^- '  ( 


i 


lemotu  cllerl  of  the  trado-wiiiil,  liut  luerely   mention  tlic  fact  as  a 
^i\'u\c  to  persons  who  may  piirsuo  the  same  route. 

We  approaelied  the  island  on  a  fine  sunny  day,  but  from  a  quar- 
ter that  was  hij^hly  unfavorahle  for  a  \ie\v  of  the  lofty  Peak,  whieli 
was  almost  liid  from  us  by  interveninjz;  mtmntains.  At  four  o'clock 
we  came  to  an  anclior  in  tiie  roads  of  Santa  Cruz,  and  tiiere  found 
His  Majesty's  ship  Wellesley,  Ca[)tain,  now  Aihniral  Sir  G.  E. 
Hamond,  liart.,  on  her  way  to  Rio  Janeiro,  with  his  Excellency 
Sir  Charles  Stuart,  the  FJritis'i  yVmbassador  to  the  court  of  Brazil. 
As  soon  as  we  had  exchanged  salutes  with  the  fort,  we  landed  to 
procure  the  sup|)lies  the  ship  recjuired,  with  all  despatch  ;  and  met 
with  nuich  assistance  and  civility  from  Mr.  Dupland,  who  was  acting 
in  the  absence  of  the  Consul. 

Santa  Cruz,  at  the  time  of  our  arrival,  was  under  the  govern- 
ment of  Don  Vsidore  Lriarti,  who  very  obligingly  allowed  me  to 
pitch  a  tent  in  one  of  the  forts  for  the  |)urpose  of  making  observations, 
and  placed  a  guard  of  soldiers  to  keep  w  atch  over  the  instruments. 
In  Santa  Cruz  there  is  very  little  to  interest  a  stranger  :  when  he 
has  paraded  some  inferior  gardens  which  perpetuate  the  memory  of 
Marquis  de  Jiranciforl,  cast  his  eye  round  the  interior  of  the  great 
church  of  San  Francisco,  where  a  flag  that  once  belonged  to  Lord 
Nelson  will  not  be  allowed  to  escape  his  attention,  and  scanned  a 
monument  erected  to  the  Virgin  Mary  de  la  Candelaria,  the  patron- 
ess-saint of  the  island,  he  has  seen  all  that  can  offer  an  inducement 
to  expose  himself  to  a  dusty  walk  on  a  hot  day,  which  he  will  be 
sure  to  find  in  the  month  of  June  in  this  scattered  town.  The  Flaza 
Reale  will  anuise  those  jiersons  who  wish  to  indulge  their  criticism 
on  the  maimer  and  costume  of  tii"  iiiliai)itants,  who  assemble  there 
in  the  evening  to  smoke  their  cigars,  and  enjoy  the  luxurious  fresh- 
ness of  the  air. 

At  Laguna  the  capital,  visiters  will  find  a  better  town,  a  more 
fertile  coimtiy,  a  climate  several  degrees  cooler  than  that  of  Santa 
Cruz,  and  every  species  of  produce  more  abundant  and  forward 
than  at  the  port ;  and  though  the  road  is  bad,  few  will  regret  hav- 
ing encountered  its  didiculties.  The  celebrated  Peak  of  Teyde  is 
the  great  object  of  curiosity  w  Inch  engages  the  attention  of  travel- 
lers to  the  Canary  groujie,  and  we  experienced  much  mortification 
at  not  having  it  in  our  power  to  ascend  it.  To  have  added  our 
mite  toward  the  determination  of  its  altitude  by  barometrical 
measurement,  was  a  consideration  not  overlookcfl ;  but,  circum- 
stanced as  we  were,  it  was  not  of  sufficient  importance  to  justi- 
fy the  detention  of  the  ship ;  and  we  were  obliged  to  console  our- 
selves with  the  hope  that  we  should  shortly  visit  places  less  known, 
and  where  our  time,  consequently,  would  be  more  usefully  employed. 

Teneriffe   is  an  island  which  lies  in  the  track  of  all  outward- 


I 


f 


•>4 


.1 


i 


-ii*' 


[June, 


18'25. 


ANll    BKERINU  b    STRAIT. 


15 


lie  fact  as  a 

Voiii  a  quar- 
IVak,  wliicli 
four  o'clock 
there  found 
Sir  G.  E. 
Excellency 
t  of  Uiazil. 
e  landed  to 
J ;  and  met 
3  was  acting 

the  govern- 
twed  lue  to 
hsoivations, 
nstiunients. 
:    when  lie 

memory  of 
)f  the  ureal 
ed  to  Lord 

sciimed  a 
the  , matron- 
inducement 
1  he  will  be 
The  Plaza 
criticism 
)le  tliero 
ious  fresh- 

a  more 
of  Santa 

forward 
_t!;rct  liav- 
Teyde  is 
of  travel- 
tification 
(led  our 
ometrical 

c  ire  uni- 
te justi- 
sole  our- 

known, 
nployed. 
)utwar(l- 


I 


*•■', 


!■■ 


hound  ships  from  Europe,  and  most  \oyagers  have  touched  at  it: 
heinu;  the  first  object  of  inter(;s;t  they  meet,  their  zeal  is  naturally 
more  excited  there,  than  at  any  sul)sc'f|uent  |)erio(l  of  their  voyage  : 
it  is  coiise(|uently  better  described  than  almost  any  other  island  in 
tlie  Atlantic,  and  nothing  is  now  left  for  a  casual  visiter,  hut  to  go 
over  the  ground  of  his  |)r(Mieccssors  for  his  own  gratilicution  or  im- 
j)rovement.  iMy  observations  for  the  tletermiiuition  of  the  latitude 
and  longitude  of  the  place,  Jk,c.  were  made  in  the  Saluting  Battery, 
but  they  are  omitted  lierc,  as  J  |)ropi)sc,  throughout  these  volumes, 
to  avoid,  as  far  as  possible,  the  insertion  of  figures  and  calculations, 
which,  by  the  majority  of  readers,  are  considered  interruptions  to 
the  narrative,  and  are  interesting  only  to  a  few.  On  the  lhi\,  His 
Majesty's  ship  VVallesley  sailed  for  Ilio  Janeiro  with  Ills  Excellen- 
cy Sir  Oharles  Stuart ;  and  on  the  5th,  having  procmed  w  hat  supplies 
we  required,  we  weighed,  and  shaped  our  course  for  the  same  place. 

From  our  anchorage  we  had  been  daily  tantalized  w  ith  a  glimpse 
only  of  the  very  sunnnit  of  the  Peak,  peeping  over  a  nearer  range 
of  mountains,  and  the  hazy  state  of  the  weather  on  the  day  of  our 
departure  made  us  fearful  we  should  pass  on  w  ithout  beholding  any 
more  of  it;  but  towards  sunset,  when  we  had  reached  some  miles 
from  the  coast,  we  were  most  agreeably  disappointed  by  a  fair  view 
of  this  gigantic  cone.  The  sun  set  i)ehiml  it;  and  as  his  beams 
withdrew,  the  mountain  was  thrown  forward,  until  it  appeared  not 
half  its  real  distance.  Then  followed  a  succession  of  tints,  from 
the  glowing  colours  of  a  tropical  sky,  to  the  sombre  jiurple  of  the 
deepest  valleys;  \arying  in  intensity  with  every  intermediate 
range,  until  a  landscape  was  produced,  which  for  beauty  of  outline, 
and  brilliancy  of  colour,  is  rart;ly  surpassed  ;  and  we  acknowledged 
ourselves  amply  repaid  for  our  days  of  sus|)ense.  Night  soon  closed 
upon  the  view  ;  and  directing  our  comj)ass  to  a  well-known  head- 
land, we  took  our  last  look  at  the  islaiul,  which  was  the  only  one 
of  the  Canary  groupe  we  had  seen  :  not  on  account  of  our  dis- 
tance from  them,  but  owing  to  that  nrass  of  clouds  which  "  naviga- 
tors behold  incessantly  piled  over  this  Archipelago."  The  breeze 
was  fair,  and  we  rolled  on,  from  day  to  day,  with  our  awnings 
spread  ;  passing  rapidly  over  the  ground  with  a  fresh  frade-winil, 
and  daily  increasing  the  heat  and  humidity  of  our  atmosphere  ; 
anuised  occasionally  by  day,  with  shoals  of  llying-fish  starting  from 
our  path,  followed  by  their  rapacious  jjursuers  ;  and  by  night,  with 
the  phosphoric  (lashing  of  the  sea,  and  the  gradual  rising  of  con- 
stellations not  visible  in  our  native  country. 

Toward  the  termination  of  the  trade,  the  wind  veered  gradually 
to  the  eastward,  and  became  fresh  until  noon  of  the  ir>th,  when  it 
suddenly  ceased,  and  the  sea,  foaming  like  breakers,  beneath  a 
black  thunder-cloud,  warned  us  to  lake  in  our  lighter  sails.      We 


\v| 


''j 


li, 


w 


,V' 


i 


M 


■  i 


Ih 


I 


Ifi 


VOYAGE  TO  THE   PACIFIC 


[June, 


were  presently  taken  aback  with  a  violent  gust  of  wind  from  the 
southward,  and  from  tliat  time  lost  the  north-east  trade.  As  we 
approached  its  limit,  the  atmosphere  gradually  became  more  charged 
witli  humidity,  and  the  sky  thickened  with  dark  clouds,  which,  lat- 
terly, moved  heavily  in  all  directions,  pouring  down  torrents  of  rain. 
On  the  Ifith,  the  sun  was  eclipsed;  and  we  made  many  obser- 
vations to  determine  the  moment  of  conjunction.  In  doing  this, 
my  attention  was  arrested  by  a  very  unusual  appearance.  It  con- 
sisted of  a  luminous  haze  about  the  moon,  as  if  the  light  had  been 
transmitted  through  an  intervening  atmosphere.  I  made  a  sketch 
of  it  very  soon  afterwards,  of  which  I  was  very  glad,  as  a  similar 
phenomenon,  I  found,  had  been  observed  by  M.  Dolland  in  another 
eclipse  ;  and  as  the  subject  has  since  received  much  interest  from 
the  circumstance  of  Aldebaran,  and  Jupiter  and  his  satellites,  hav- 
ing been  seen  projected  upon  the  disc  of  the  moon.  About  the 
time  of  the  greatest  obscuration,  Leslie's  photometer  stood  at  27°, 
exactly  half  what  it  afterwards  showed.  Between  the  intervals  of 
observation,  we  amused  ourselves  with  making  experiments  with  a 
burning  glass  upon  dificrently  coloured  cloths,  in  imitation  of  those 
recorded  in  the  Memoirs  of  the  Astronomical  Society,  and  which 
will  convey  to  the  general  reader  a  more  intelligible  idea  of  the 
decrease  of  intensity  in  the  sun's  rays  at  the  time  of  the  greatest 
obscuration,  than  the  observations  with  the  photometer,  as  well  as 
of  the  readiness  with  which  some  colours  ignite  in  comparison  with 
others :  for  instance. 


Black  Blue  Scarlet, 

burned  instantly ;     required  Sa,  7,     153,7: 


Pea-Green 
would  not  ignite. 


After  the  eclipse,  and  when  the  sun  was  shining  bright. 


Black 
burned  instantlj'^ ; 


Blue  Scarlet,      Pea-Green, 

instantly ;  23 ;  7^,  8 ; 


Yellow, 
4b,  3. 


The  results  are  the  mean  of  several  observations  ;  and  the  intervals, 
the  number  of  seconds  between  the  rays  being  brought  to  a  focus 
on  the  cloth,  and  its  ignition. 

After  losing  the  trade-wind,  we  went  through  the  usual  ordeal  of 
baffling  winds  and  calms,  with  oppressively  hot  moist  weather,  and 
heavy  rains;  and  then,  on  the  19th,  in  latitude  5°  30'  N.,  got  the 
south-east  trade,  with  which  we  pursued  our  course  towards  the 
equator,  and  crossed  it  on  the  24th,  in  longitude  30°  2'  West,  much 
further  from  the  meridian  of  Greenwich  than  choice  would  have 
dictated.  Some  anxiety  was  in  consequence  felt  lest  the  current, 
\vhich  here  ran  to  the  westward  at  the  rate  of  thirty  miles  a  day, 
should  sweep  the  ship  so  far  to  the  leeward,  as  to  prevent  her 


»« 


b^ 

INI 
thi 
o' 
bt 


J* 


[June, 


18525. 


AND   nr.I'.RINM.  S   STIIMT. 


17 


J  from  tho 
e.  As  wt" 
ore  charged 
which,  lat- 
iits  of  rain, 
lany  ob.ser- 
doing  this, 
Q.  It  con- 
t  had  been 
le  a  sketch 
i  a  similar 
in  another 
erest  from 
Hites,  hav- 
About  the 
3d  at  27°, 
ntervals  of 
3nts  with  a 
m  of  those 
md  which 
dea  of  the 
le  greatest 
as  well  as 
irison  with 


•een 


ignite. 


Yellow, 
4b,  3. 

intervals, 
0  a  focus 

ordeal  of 
tlier,  and 

got  the 
ards  the 
St,  much 
jld  have 

current, 
s  a  day, 
rent  hei- 


€ 


weathering  Capo  St.  Ko(|ue,  the  nnrlh-oastorn  promontory  of  the 
Hrazilian  coa.st,  whitli  would  niatcrialty  protract  the  passage,  by 
making  it  necessary  to  return  to  the  variable  winds  about  the  equa- 
tor in  order  to  regain  the  casting,  iis  it  is  almost  impossible  to  make 
way  against  the  rapid  current  wiiir-Ii  sets  past  Cape  St.  Roquc. 

During  the  Uironoon  of  the  2Gtli,  we  observed  an  unusual  num- 
ber of  birds.  To  our  rompanions,  the  tropic  bird,  shearwaters,  and 
Mother  Carey's  cliii-kens,  were  added  gannets  and  boatswains  : 
they  were  conjectured  to  be  the  forerunners  of  land  ;  and,  at  three 
o'clock,  the  island  of  Fernanda  l\orliona  was  seen  from  the  deck, 
bearing  south-west,  twelve  leagues.  When  we  had  neared  this 
island  witiiin  six  leagues,  there  was  an  irregular  sea  ;  but  wc  had 
no  soundings  at  351  fathom's  depth.  Our  observations  reduced  to 
the  Peak,  jilared  it  eighteen  miles  to  the  eastward  of  its  position 
in  the  East  India  Directory.  Some  squally  weather,  which  occa- 
sionally broke  the  ship  off  her  course,  increased  our  anxiety  ;  but 
wc  kept  clean  full,  to  j)a.^s  as  ([uickly  as  po.ssib!e  the  current,  which 
here  runs  with  great  rai.'rlity. 

On  the  iiOtli  we  had  the  satisfaction  to  find  ourselves  to  the 
southward  of  the  promontory,  and  that  it  would  not  be  necessary 
to  make  a  tack.  The  wind,  however,  led  us  in  with  the  coast  of 
Brazil,  whicli  was  seen  on  the  morning  of  the  8th.  The  same  eve- 
ning we  passed  the  shoul  off  Cape  St.  Thomas — a  danger  which 
until  very  lately  was  erroneously  placed  upon  the  charts,  and  not 
sufficiently  marked  to  warn  ships  of  the  peril  of  approaching  it.* 
Thence,  our  course  was  for  Cape  Frio,  a  headland  which  all  ves- 
sels bound  to  Rio  Janeiro  should,  on  several  accounts,  endeavour 
to  make.  In  fine  weather  the  south-east  winds  blow  home  to  tlie 
cape,  and  gradually  fall  into  either  the  land  or  sea  breeze,  according 
to  the  time  of  day,  though  the  prevailing  wind  off  it  is  from  the 
north-east :  with  either  of  these  winds,  a  ship  can  proceed  to  hoi- 
port.  The  southerly  monsoon,  which,  while  it  blows,  materially 
facilitates  the  navigation  along  the  coast  to  the  northward,  .scarcely 
affects  the  wind  close  in  with  the  cape.  The  greatest  interruptions 
to  which  they  are  liable  are  from  the  pamperos,  which  in  the  win- 
ter blow  with  great  violence  from  the  River  Plate,  sweep  past  Rio 
Janeiro,  extend  to  the  before-mentioned  cape,  and  often  beyond  it, 
to  a  considerable  oliing.  It  was  during  the  influence  of  one  of 
these  gales  that  we  a])proached  Cape  Frio,  and  had  no  sooner 
opened  the  land  on  the  western  side  of  the  promontory,  than  we 
were  met  by  a  long  rolling  swell  from  the  south-west,  gusts  of  wind, 

♦  A  nierchnnt-vcs3cl  on  hnr  way  from  Rio  .faiK iro  to  B;iliiii,  when  .T.tioiit  t<n  niilo.'; 
fr.)iu  the  land,  struck  upon  tliis  shoal,  and  b(':>t  over  it,  fortuiiaidy  with  tiic  loss  of 
ht^r  rnddrr  oidy.  Slip  afit  rwnrds  slood  f(,r  live  hours  aloiifr  the  shoal,  to  the  east- 
ward, and  her  master  stated  tliat  the  sea  broke  upon  it  out  of  siirlit  of  land. 

viu,.  I.  ;} 


f 


l«' 


,  t 


fi 


\\y 


w 


'i 


m 


18 


VOYAOK   T(»  THF.   PACIFIC 


[July, 


find  unsettled  weather ;  and  at  noon  cnronnlored  a  violent  squall 
attended  by  thunder  and  liu;litninj!;,  whicli  ol)li2;ed  us  to  take  in 
every  sail  on  the  instant.  Towards  sunset  the  weather  cleared  up, 
and  wc  saw  Cape  Frio,  N.  W.  hy  W.,  very  distant. 

Calms  and  baffling  winds  succeeded  this  boisterous  weather,  so 
that  on  the  morning  of  the  lltli  wc  were  still  distfint  from  our 
port ;  and  the  daylight  was  gone,  and  with  it  the  sea-breeze,  before 
we  could  reach  a  place  to  (ho|)  our  anchor.  It,  however,  some- 
times happens,  fortunately  for  those  who  are  late  in  making  the  en- 
trance of  the  harbour,  that  in  the  interval  between  the  sea  and  land 
breezes,  gusts  blow  oft"  the  eastern  shore,  and  ships,  by  taking  ad- 
vantage of  them,  and  at  the  same  time  l)y  keeping  close  over  on 
that  side,  may  succeed  in  entering  the  port.  This  was  our  case  ; 
and  at  nine  at  night  we  anchored  among  tlic  British  squadron,  un- 
der the  command  of  Rear-Admiral  Sir  George  Eyre,  who  was  the 
following  morning  saluted  with  thirteen  guns — a  com[)liment  which 
would  have  been  j)aid  by  the  ships  to  the  authorities  of  the  place, 
had  it  not  been  suspended  in  consequence  of  his  Imperial  Highness 
requiring  certain  forms  on  the  occasion,  with  which  his  Britannic 
Majesty's  government  did  not  think  it  right  to  comply. 

The  ship  being  in  the  want  of  caulking,  and  the  riging  of  a  refit, 
previous  to  encountering  the  boisterous  latitude  of  Cape  Horn, 
tliese  repairs  were  immediately  commenced,  and  the  few  stores  ex- 
pended on  the  passage  were  replaced.  While  these  services  were 
going  forward,  and  observations  were  in  progress  for  detennining 
the  geographical  position  of  the  port,  and  for  other  scientific  pur- 
poses, excursions  were  made  to  the  various  places  of  interest  in 
which  Rio  Janeiro  abounds : — Bota-Fogo,  Braganza,  the  Falls  of 
Tejuca,  and  the  lofty  Corcovado,  were  successively  visited,  and  af- 
forded amusement  to  the  naturalist,  the  traveller,  and  the  artist. 
Few  places  are  more  worthy  the  description  that  has  been  given  of 
them  by  various  authors,  than  those  above  mentioned  ;  and  they 
have  been  so  fre([uently  described  that  th  y  arc  familiar  to  every 
reader,  and,  as  well  as  the  picturesque  scenery  of  Rio  Janeiro  it- 
self, are  quite  proverbial.  Indeed  there  is  little  left  in  the  vicinity 
of  this  magnificent  port,  of  which  the  description  will  possess  the 
merit  of  novelty. 

The  observations  which  were  made  during  our  stay  in  Rio  Ja- 
neiro will  be  found  in  the  Appendix  to  the  quarto  edition.  It  may, 
however,  be  interesting  to  insert  here  the  height  of  the  Peak  of 
Corcovado,  a  singularly  shaped  mass  of  granite  which  overlooks 
the  ])lacid  waters  of  Bota-Fogo,  as  the  measurements  hitherto  given 
are  at  varian(  e  with  each  other,  and  as  it  is  a  subject  whicli  has 
caused  many  discussions  among  tlie  good  pef)])le  who  live  in  its 
vicinity. 


ijr^, 


k 


cii 
fei 
ci' 


w 


n 


[July. 

iolont  squall 
to  take  in 
cleared  up, 

weather,  so 
It  from  our 
eeze,  before 
ever,  soine- 
\i\\v*,  the  en- 
iea  and  land 

taking  ad- 
>se  over  on 
s  our  case ; 
uadroii,  un- 
lio  was  the 
inent  which 

the  place, 
il  Hijilincss 
is  Britannic 

ig  of  a  refit, 
'ape  Horn, 
V  stores  ex- 
'viccs  were 
fletermining 
'ntific  pur- 
interest  in 
le  Falls  of 
ed,  and  af- 
the  artist. 
Jn  given  of 
and  they 
to  every 
Janeiro  it- 
10  vicinity 
ossess  the 

Rio  Ja- 
It  may. 

Peak  of 
overlooks 
M'to  given 

liicli  has 
ive  in  its 


It 


f 


lH-25. 


ANT)  nEKRINr.  S  STUAIT. 


I<) 


^K 


\ 


Onr  I'lrat  meaflurcnicnt  wnR  witli  biiniinctrrH,  wliicli,  i  alculntrd  by 
Mr.  DiiiiifrH  new  funnulii,  fuvo  (lie  hi\»v  nf  the  Ilii.'r-rftiiH'  on  the 
Frak,  ulMive  lialf-ticl.' .  ,  'J3(>H  feet. 

The  next,  liy  trigDuuiiictiical  iiieii.iureiiicnt,  gave     ....     '<2U3ti 

On  my  return  to  the  same    place   three   years   afterwards,  1  re- 
peated the  observations,  w  hich  gave  the  height  as  follows  : — 


l!y  liarnmctrical  mraHnrcmont 

liy  liig-oiioniitiical  nu'a.surcmcnt 

Tin;  Siig-ur  Loaf  \>y  the  first  ba.su  in  IH'J.'i  was 

t)y  the  second  base  in  1838  waa 


22914*  feet. 
23(»5it 
1280 
129l)t 


The  astronomical  observations  were  u'ade  at  an  observatory 
erected  in  Mr.  JNIay's  garden  at  Gloria,  an  iiididgence  for  which  1 
feel  iiarticuhirly  inilebted  to  that  gentleman,  as  well  as  for  other 
civilities  which  I  received  from  him  (iuring  my  stay  in  the  place. 

On  the  ].'3th  of  August  wo  sailed  from  Rio  Janeiro  for  the  Pa- 
cific :  a  ])assage  interesting  from  the  difiicultics  which  sometimes 
attend  it,  and  from  its  posses.sing  the  peculiarity  of  i)roducing  the 
greatest  change  of  climate  in  the  shortest  s|)ace  of  time.  The  day 
after  wc  left  the  port,  we  encountered  a  dangerous  thunder-storm, 
which  commenced  in  the  evening,  and  lasted  till  after  midnight : 
during  this  time  the  sheet  lightning  was  vivid  and  incessant,  and 
the  forked  frequently  passed  Ijctween  the  masts.  The  wind  varied 
so  often,  that  it  was  with  the  greatest  difliculty  the  sails  were  pre- 
vented coming  aback ;  and  it  blew  so  hard  that  it  was  necessary  to 
lower  the  close-reefed  topsails  on  the  cap.  Shortly  after  midnight, 
a  vivid  flash  of  lightning  left  five  meteors  upon  the  mast-heads  and 
topsail  yard-arms,  but  did  no  damage :  they  vveio  of  a  bluish  cast, 
burnt  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  then  disappeared.  The 
weather  almost  immediately  afterwards  moderated,  and  the  thun- 
der cloud  passed  away. 

We  had  afterwards  light  and  var'ablc  winds,  with  which  we  crept 
down  to  the  southward,  until  the  night  of  the  25th,  when  being 
nearly  abreast  of  the  River  Plate,  a  succession  of  pamperos ||  be- 
gan, and  continued  until  the  2nd  of  September,  with  their  usual 

*  This  diflera  sixteen  feet  from  the  first  result,  wliich  may  partly  be  owing'  to  the 
barometers,  on  tliia  occasion,  nut  being'  in  euch  g-ood  order  as  at  first :  the  aniotmt, 
however,  is  so  small  as  almost  to  need  no  apuloyy,  particularly  as  the  observations 
were  made  on  days  as  opposite  as  possible  to  each  other — the  first  in  drizzHng  rain, 
the  last  on  a  clear  sunshining  day — whereby  the  formula  was  put  to  the  severest 
trial. 

t  In  this  operation  I  was  assisted  by  the  late  Captain  Henry  Forster,  R.  N.  an 
ofliccr  well  known  to  the  scientific  world,  with  whom  I  hud  the  pleasure  to  become 
acquainted  at  this  place. 

tThe  dillcrence  in  these  measurements  is,  no  doubt,  owing  to  there  being  no  ob- 
ject on  the  summit  of  the  hill  sufticicntly  defined  for  the  purpose  of  observation, 
and  it  is  almo.^t  impos.siblo  to  ascend  it. 

II  Thc^c  arc  heavy  gust.«  of  wind  which  blow  otV  the  heated  plains  (or  pampas) 
lying  between  tin,'  foot  of  ihc  Coidillcra  Mountaiii:=  and  the  sea.     In  the  River  Plate, 


'f 


f 


•«^- 


^ 


,^ 


90 


VOYAdC.  T(»  TIIK   PACIKIC 


[SVpt 


t 


(t 


ii 


|t 


I'- 


H  ■  I 


"I 


cimractcristics,  of  lliimdir  iiiid  liiililiiing,  with  liail  and  sim<5liinc'  ho- 
twcfii.  On  the  i)tli,  sonndiniis  wvvc  oljlaimil  in  75  fatlionis  od" 
the  Falkland  Islmids  ;  l)ut  no  lami  was  simmi  at  the  lime,  in  ronso 
(jnencc!  of  misty  weather.  We  here  again  cxpeiieneed  a  short 
though  liea\  y  gale.  As  it  was  against  us,  we  turned  our  proximity 
to  the  land  to  good  account,  by  seeking  shelter  under  its  lee,  stri- 
king soundings  upon  a  sandy  bottom,  iVoni  .')(>  to  80  fathoms,  t!ie 
de|tth  increasing  with  the  distance  from  the  coast.  The  weather 
moderated  on  the  day  following,  and  we  saw  the  land,  from  S.  ^25' 
VV.  to  S.  5G°  W.,  eight  or  nine  leagues  distant ;  the  wind,  at  the 
same  time,  became  favourable,  and  carried  us  past  the  Islands  dur- 
ing the  night.  The  eastern  point  of  these  Islands  (Cape  St.  Vin- 
cent), by  such  observations  as  we  were  able  to  make,  apjjcars  to 
be  correctly  placed  in  the  charts.  The  position  1  have  assigned 
to  it  will  be  seen  in  the  table  at  the  end  of  the  work. 

From  the  Falkland  Islands  we  stood  to  the  southward  ;  and  after 
two  short  gales  from  the  westward,  made  Cape  Horn  en  the  Kith, 
bearing  N.  40°  W.  six  or  seven  leagues.  This  was  (juite  an  unex- 
pected event,  as  a  course  liad  been  shaped  the  dny  before  to  pass  it 
at  a  distance  of  seventy  mile-.  It  nppeari  d.  lio\v(!ver,  by  the  noon 
observation,  that  a  current  had  drifted  the  ship  fifty  miles  to  the 
northward  in  the  twenty-four  hours,  a  circumstance  w  hieh  might  have 
been  attended  with  very  serious  consequences  had  the  weather  been 
thick  ;  and  slii])s  in  passing  the  Strait  le  iMaire  will  do  well  to  be 
on  their  guard  against  a  like  occurrence.*  Tiie  view  of  this  cele- 
brated promontory,  which  has  cost  navigators,  from  the  earliest 
period  of  its  discovery  to  tlic  present  time,  so  nuich  difFicvdty  to 
double,  was  highly  gratifying  to  all  on  board,  and  es[)ecially  so  to 
those  who  had  never  seen  it  before  ;  yet  it  \^  as  a  pleasure  we  would 
all  willingly  have  esf-hanged  for  the  adximtage  of  being  able  to  pur- 
sue an  uninterrupted  coiu-se  along  the  shore  of  Tierra  del  Fuego, 
which  the  flattering  prospect  of  the  preceding  day  led  us  to  expect, 
and  which,  iiad  it  not  been  for  the  noitiierly  current,  would  have 
been  effected  with  ease.  The  flisappointmenl  was  of  course  very 
great,  particularly  as  the  w  ind  at  the  moment  v.  as  more  favourable 
lor  rounding  i]ui  cape  than  it  usually  is. 

In  the  evening,  tlie  Islands  of  Diego  I^uiiire/,  were  seen  on  the 
weather  bov  :  and  nothing  remained  but  to  pursue  the  iimer  route. 
at  the  risk  of  oeing  caught  upon  a  lee-shore  v.itli  a  uale  of  wind, 
or  stand  back  to  the  south-eastward,  and  los<'  in   one   day   what  it 

ami  near  the  coast,  they  arc  very  violent  aiul  daiiL'-ordii:^,  Inin  (Ik  stulilen  manner 
in  which  they  occur.  Their  force  diniiuiblici  as'  (lie  dir-tuncc  from  the  coast  in- 
creiis,ea. 

*  Fcir  remarks  on  the  cm  rem.-,  and  ohservationa  on  llie  whuU,  in   the   vicinity  ..l 
Oapc  Horn,  the  reader  i.-  referred  to  tlie  Nautiial  Uemark.<  in  (lie  quarto  edition. 


* 


;l 


3 


^■ 


w| 
a  I 
dil 

dil 

li 

Wi 

b(« 

C 
br 


Sij)t 


|H.i5.| 


AND  URF.HINO  «  sTR.MT 


91 


SllIlSlllllC    l)('- 

fallioiiiH  oir 
ne,  ill  consc- 
icod  ii  short 
iir  proximity 

its  Ice,  stri- 
fiitlioiiis,  t!ie 
riie  woatlicr 

lioin  S.  '23" 
Ainrl,  at  the 

Islands  dur- 
pe  St.  Vin- 
,  appears  to 
ive  assigned 

d  ;  and  after 

II  the  16th, 

itc  an  unex- 

ro  to  pass  it 

)y  the   noon 

niles  to  the 

I  inii!;lit  have 

eatlier  hcon 

3  well  to  he 

)f  this  eele- 

ihc   earliest 

linindty  to 

fially  so  tr) 

'■  we  would 

l)le  to  piir- 

lel   Fuego, 

to  expect, 

ould   liuve 

oursc  very 

favoiirahle 

ocn  on  the 
uier  route. 
0  of  wind. 
V   wliat  it 


4 


would  require  perhaps  a  week  to  recover.  We  adopted  the  lijrnier 
alli'riiali\(',  and  passed  the  Islands  us  close  as  it  was  prudent,  in  a 
dark  niii^ht.  strikinj;  soundings  in  deep  water  upon  an  uneven  bottom. 

'J'he  next  morning,  the  small  groujfe  of  lldefon/o  Islands  was 
distant  six  Piiles  on  the  lee-heam,  and  the  mainland  of  Tierra  del 
Fueiio  appeared  hehind  it,  in  lofty  ranges  of  mountains  streaked 
Willi  snow.  The  cape  mistaken  for  Cape  Horn  hy  Fjord  Anson 
hore  N.  '11)°  K.,  and  the  promontory  designated  York  Mil  ister  hy 
Captain  Cook,  VV.  hy  J\.  The  coast  was  hold,  rocky,  and  mucli 
broken,  and  every  here  and  there  deeply  indented,  as  if  purposely 
to  allbrd  a  refuge  from  the  pitiless  gales  which  occasionally  heal 
n|)on  it.  The  general  appearance  of  the  laiuLscape  was  any  thing 
but  exhilarating  to  persons  recently  removed  from  the  delightful 
scenery  of  Kio  Janeiro ;  and  wc  were  particularly  struck  with  the 
contrast  between  the  romantic  and  luxurious  scenery  of  that  place 
and  the  bleak  eoast  before  us,  where  the  snow,  filling  the  valleys 
and  fissures,  gave  the  barren  jn-ojections  a  darker  hue  and  a  more 
rugged  outline  than  they  in  reality  possessed. 

As  we  drew  in  with  the  land,  the  water  became  discoloured,  and 
speciri';ally  lighter  than  that  in  the  oirmg,  whence  it  was  concluded 
that  some  rivers  emptied  themselves  into  the  sea  in  the  vicinity. 
In  the  evening  it  became  necessary  to  stand  off  the  coast ;  and  wc 
experienced  the  disadvantages  of  the  ofling,  by  getting  into  the 
stream  of  the  easterly  current,  and  by  the  increase  of  both  wind 
and  sea.*  We  stood  to  the  westward  again  as  soon  as  it  could  be 
done ;  and  on  the  '^Gth  were  fifty  leagues  due  west  of  Cape  Pillar, 
a  situation  from  which  there  is  no  difiiculty  in  making  the  remain- 
der of  tiie  passage. 

We  now,  for  a  time  at  least,  bade  adieu  to  the  shores  of  Tierra 
del  Fuego,  whose  coast  and  climate  we  quitted  with  far  more  fa- 
vourable impressions  than  those  under  which  they  were  approach- 
ed. This,  I  think,  will  be  the  case  with  every  man-of-war  that 
jiasses  it,  excepting  the  few  that  may  be  particularty  unfortunate 
in  their  weather ;  for  early  navigation  has  stamped  it  with  a  char- 
acter which  will  ever  be  coupled  with  its  name,  notwithstanding  its 
terrors  are  gradually  disappearing  before  the  progressive  improve- 
ment in  navigation.  It  must  be  admitted  we  were  much  favoured  : 
few  persons,  probably,  who  effect  the  jiassage,  will  lia\e  it  in  their 
power  to  say  they  were  only  a  week  from  the  meridian  of  Cape 
Horn  to  a  station  fifty  leagues  due  west  of  Cape  Pillar,  and  that 


i!cn   m.Tiincr 
lie   coast  iii- 

xiiiiiity  .■! 
t"  I'dilion. 


*  It  is  a  curiou.^  fiirt,  that  on  tliis  clay,  at  a  distance  of  only  fifty  Icagrucs 
from  where  wc  were,  it  blew  a  strung-  jrale  of  wind,  with  a  liijrli  sea,  which  washed 
away  the  bulwark  of  a  fine  bri.;-,  the  }Icllc.-:punt,  commanded  by  Lieutenant  Charles 
I'arker,  11.  N.,  to  whom  I  ana  indcbteil  for  this  andntliei  inttrcstinL"^  information  on 
the  winds  and  current:'  encountered  by  him  in  liis  pussape. 


# 


0 


P\ 


23 


VOYAOE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[  Sc])t . 


m 


f 


It '  ■ 


■  "■  \ 


vlf 


rH 


(luring  thai  time  there  was  more  reason  to  complain  of  light  winds 
and  calms,  than  the  heavy  gales  which  proverbially  visit  these 
shores. 

Navigators  distinguish  the  j)assages  round  Cape  Horn  by  the 
outer  iind  inner ;  some  reconnnending  one,  some  the  other ;  and 
doubtless  both  have  their  advantages  and  disadvantages.  It  would 
be  very  uninteresting  here  to  discuss  the  merits  of  either,  as  the 
question  has  been  sufficiently  considered  elsewhere ;  and  it  would, 
in  my  opinion,  be  equally  useless,  as  very  few  persons  follow  the 
advice  of  their  predecessors  in  a  matter  of  this  nature,  but  pursue 
that  course  which  from  circumstances  may  seem  most  advantageous 
at  the  moment ;  and  this  will  ever  be  the  case  where  such  differ- 
ence of  opinion  exists.  What  I  had  to  say  on  this  subject  has 
been  published  in  the  Nautical  Remarks  to  the  quarto  edition. 

In  dercribing  the  passage  round  Cape  Horn,  I  have  omitted  to 
mention  some  particulars  on  the  days  on  which  they  occurred,  in 
order  that  they  may  not  interrupt  the  narrative.  As  we  approach- 
ed the  Falkland  Islands  from  Rio  Janeiro,  some  penguins  were 
.seen  upon  the  water  in  latitude  47°  S.,  at  a  distance  of  three  hun- 
dred and  forty  miles  from  the  nearest  land ;  a  fact  which  either 
proves  the  common  opinion,  that  this  species  never  stray  far  from 
land,  to  be  in  error,  or  that  some  unknown  land  exists  in  the  vicin- 
ity. As  their  situation  was  not  far  from  the  parallell  in  which  the 
long-sought  He  Grande  of  I^a  Roche  was  said  to  have  been  seen, 
those  who  are  wedded  to  the  common  opinion  above  alluded  to, 
may  yet  fancy  such  an  island  has  existence ;  although  it  is  highly 
improbable  that  it  should  have  escaped  the  observation,  not  only 
of  those  who  purposely  went  in  search  of  it,  but  of  the  numerous 
ships  also  which  have  of  late  made  the  passage  from  tlie  Atlantic 
to  the  Pacific.  Another  opinion,  not  quite  so  general,  (but  which 
I  have  heard  repeatedly  expressed  with  reference  to  the  coast  of 
California),  is,  that  of  aquatic  birds  confining  their  flight  within  cer- 
tain limits,  so  that  a  person  who  has  paid  attention  to  the  subject 
will  know  by  the  birds  that  are  about  him,  without  seeing  the  land, 
what  part  of  the  coast  he  is  off.  ]My  own  experience  does  not 
enable  me  to  offer  any  remarks  on  the  subject,  except  in  the  in- 
stance of  the  St.  Sawrencc  Islands,  in  Beering's  Strait,  the  vicini- 
ty to  « Inch  is  always  indicated  by  the  Crested  Auk  (^alca  cresta- 
tcllo).  But  the  following  fact  may  be  serviceable  in  adding  weight 
to  the  opinion,  provided  it  were  not  accidental ;  and  if  so,  it  may 
still  be  useful  in  calling  the  attention  of  others  to  the  subject.  Off 
the  River  Plate,  we  fell  in  with  the  dusky  albatross  {diomeiHa 
fulginosa),  and  as  we  proceeded  soutl  wi;rd,  they  became  very 
numerous;  but  on  i caching  the  latitude  of  51^  S.  they  all 
quitted  us.     Wo  rounded   the  cape  ;    and  on   regaining  the  same 


pal 

,anl 

oul 

of  I 
call 

m 

the 
reel 
falll 
will 


5    U 


[Sept. 

'  light  winds 
r  visit  these 

lorn  by  the 
other;  and 
5.  It  would 
ither,  as  the 
nd  it  would, 
IS  follow  the 
,  but  })ursuo 
dvantageous 
such  differ- 
subject  has 
edition, 

onnitted  to 

occurred,  in 

e  approach- 

nguins  were 

f  three  hun- 

/hich  either 

ay  far  from 

In  the  vicin- 

n  which  the 

been  seen, 

alluded  to, 

it  is  highly 

n,  not  only 

numerous 

10  Atlantic 

(but  which 

le  coast  of 

within  cer- 

;he  subject 

|g  the  land, 

does  not 

in  the  in- 

he   vicini- 

'ca  crcsta- 

ng  weight 

10,  it  may 

iect.     Oft" 

(liomedia 

iTiue   very 

they    all 

It  he  same 


1825. 


AND    nEERINO  S    ^^TRAIT. 


23 


parallel  of  51°  S.  on  the  opposite  side,  they  again  cpmc  round  us, 
,and  accompanied  the  ship  up  the  Chili  coast.     Tiie  pini.-..loes  were 
our  constant  attendants  the  whole  way. 

From  the  time  of  leaving  England,  the  temperature  of  the  surface 
of  the  sea  had  been  registered  every  two  hours.  OffTJaiJC  Horn,  I 
caused  it  to  be  tried  every  hour,  under  an  impression  that  it  might 
ajjprise  us  of  our  approach  to  floating  ice,  when,  from  the  darkness  of 
the  night,  or  foggy  weather,  it  could  not  be  seen  ;  a  plan  I  would 
recommend  being  adopted,  as  it  may  be  useful,  notwithstanding  its 
fallibity  ;  for  though  ice  in  detached  masses,  when  drifting  fast 
with  the  wind,  extends  its  influence  a  very  sliort  way  in  the  direc- 
tion of  its  course  :  yet  on  the  other  hand,  its  effect  may  be  felt  a 
considerable  distance  in  its  wake.  We  had  only  one  warning  of  this 
nature,  by  a  decrease  of  temperature  of  four  degrees,  which  lasted 
about  an  hour.  The  temperature  of  the  sea,  at  the  greatest  depth 
our  lines  would  reach,  was  not  below  39°,  2.  Off"  the  Falkland 
Islands,  it  w-as  the  same  at  854  fathoms  as  at  603  fathoms.  The 
lowest  temperature  of  the  air  was  26°.  The  current,  which  at  a 
,  distance  from  the  land  runs  fast  to  the  eastward  to  the  discomfiture 
of  ships  bound  in  the  opposite  direction,  near  the  coast  to  the  west- 
ward of  Cape  Horn,  at  first  entirely  ceased,  and  afterwards  took  a 
^contrary  course.  There  is  much  reason  to  believe  that  it  continues 
this  north- .vesterly  course,  and  ultimately  falls  into  the  northerly 
current  so  prevalent  along  the  coast  of  Chili. 

The  wind  was  now  favorable  for  making  progress  to  the  north- 
ward. My  instmctions  did  not  direct  me  to  proceed  to  any  jiort  on 
the  coast  of  Chili,  but  circumstances  rendered  it  necessary  to  put 
into  one  of  them,  and  I  selected  Conception  as  being  the  most  de- 
sirable for  our  purpose. 
,*  The  weather  had  for  a  long  time  been  cloudy  ;  but  on  this  night 
;;  a  clear  sky  presented  to  our  view  a  comet  of  unusurl  magnitude  and 

ji  brilliancy,  situated  to  the  southeast  of  the  square  formed  by  btcctq 
Ceti.  i.noheadhada  blueish  cast  towards  its  nucleus,  where  in- 
deed it  was  so  iiright,  that  with  our  small  telescopes  it  appeared  to 
be  a  star  ;  buL  ihis  was  evidently  a  deception,  as  Mr.  Herschell, 
who  made  some   interesting  and  satisAictory   observations  on  the 

,^  same  comet,  found  on  turning  his  twenty  feet  reflector  upon  it,  that 
f  the  star-like  appearance  of  the  nucleus  was  only  an  illusion.*     The 

f,  tail  extended  between  9°  and  1 0°  of  arc  in  a  N.  W.  direction,  and 
gradually  increased  in  width  from  the  nucleus  till  near  its  termina- 
tion. We  made  a  number  of  measurements  to  ascertain  its  place, 
and  continued  thom  every  night  afterwards  on  which  the  comet  ap- 
peared ;  but  as  its  orbit  has  been  calculatc(»  from  far  more  accurato 

♦  See  Memoir  Ast.  Hoc.  vdI.  ii.  p-  *-2. 


■0 


^  .% 


y 


y 


m 


■■'i 


f 


\     I 


24 


VOYAOF  Tn  TTIE  PACIFIC 


[Oct 


observations,  and  ours  were  necessarily  made  with  stars  unequally 
^iFected  i)y  refraction,  which  involves  a  laborious  reduction,  bcsiilp^ 
the  abstnise  calculation  for  determining  its  orbit,  I  have  rot  given 
them  a  place. 

On  the  following  night  we  noticed  distinctly  the  bifurcation  of 
the  tail  represented  in  the  Memoirs  of  the  Astronomical  Society. 
The  branches  were  of  unequal  length,  and  the  lower  one  diverged 
from  the  nucleus,  at  an  angle  of  about  40°. 

On  the  6tli  we  made  the  island  of  Mocha,  on  the  coast  of 
Chili,  a  ))lace  once  celebrated  as  a  resort  of  the  Buccaneers,  wlin 
anchored  oft"  it  for  the  useful  supplier  which  in  their  days  it  fw- 
nished.  Its  condition  was  then  certainly  very  different  from  tli(> 
present :  several  Indian  chiefs  and  a  numerous  population  resided 
there,  and  it  was  well  stocked  with  cattle,  sheep,  hogs,  and  poultry. 
At  present  it  is  enti.ely  deserted,  except  by  horses  and  hogs,  both 
of  which.  Captain  Hall  states,  arc  used  as  fresh  stock  by  whalini; 
ships  in  the  Pacific.  The  Indians  appear  to  by  c  been  generally 
very  cordial  with  their  visiters,  exchanging  the  ^.'duoe  of  the 
island  for  cutlory  and  trinkets.  Tiiey,  liowc  '',  ;u!i..; 'cntly  Avitli- 
out  provocation,  attacked  Sir  Francis  Drake,  aiii'  wotnuled  him  and 
all  his  boat's  crew.  In  1GJ>0  the  ..land  was  found  deserted  by 
Captain  Strong,  and  it  has  since  remained  uninhabited.  The  cause 
of  this  is  not  known,  though  1  was  informed  in  Chili,  that  it  was  in 
consequence  of  the  frequent  depredations  committed  by  vessels 
that  touclied  at  the  island. 

Wc  quitted  Mocha,  passed  the  island  of  St.  Mary,  which  muji 
not  be  approached  on  account  of  sunken  rocks,  and  anchored  at  Tul- 
^ahuana,  the  sea-port  of  Conception,  on  the  8th,  fifty-six  days  from 
Rio  Janeiro.  Here  we  found  the  British  squadron,  under  the  com- 
mand of  Captain  jNlaling,  from  whom  I  received  every  assistance 
and  attention.  Our  arrival  oft'  the  port  was  on  one  of  tho'c 
bright  days  of  sunshine  which  characterize  the  summer  of  lir 
temperate  zone  on  the  western  side  of  America.  The  cUlls  ol 
Quiriquina,  an  island  situated  in  the  entrance  of  the  barb-  ui  .ii:; 
covered  with  birds,  curiously  arranged  in  rows  along  tin  \.  '.Oi 
strata  ;  and  on  the  rocks  were  numberless  seals  basking  in  the  su  , 
either  making  the  shores  re-echo  with  their  discordant  noise,  or  so 
unn:!iidful  of  all  that  was  passing,  as  to  allow  the  bi'-ds  to  alight  up- 
on them  and  peck  their  oily  skin  without  oftering  any  resistance. 

The  sea-|)ort  of  Conception  is  a  deej),  connnodious  bay,  woll 
protected  from  notherly  winds  by  the  fertile  little  island  above-men- 
tioned, lying  at  its  entrance  :  there  is  a  passage  on  either  sido  of  it. 
but  the  eastern  is  the  only  one  in  use,  the  other  being  very  narrow 
and  intricate.  The  land  on  the  eastern  and  western  siii,  of  llio 
bay  is   iiigh,  well  wooded,  and  on   the  la''.-!    ■,  sry  stceii      'iidu' 


It 

foj 
dil 
sicl 
•dill 
coj 
riel 
byl 
coll 
she 


[Oct 

tars  uncquallv 
Liction,  besides 
ave  r.ot  givoii 

bifurcation  of 

nical    Society. 

one  diverged 

1  the  coast  of 
^cancers,  wlio 
r  clays  it  fur- 
rent  from  tile 
ilation  resided 
3,  and  poultry, 
nd  hogs,  both 
k  by  whalini; 
ecu  generally 
'(luce  of  the 
.  ontly  with-  ' 
uuled  him  and 
I  deserted  by 
I.  The  cause 
that  it  was  in 
id  by   vessels 

,  which  niu?i 

lored  at  Tul- 

•six  days  from 

dcr  the  com- 

y   assistance 

)no  of  thnso 

uner  of   ■lir 

The  cVilis  oi 

arVui    .<'':■  .^ 

the    V.  •■".Oi.  , 
in  the  su  , 

noiso,  or  so 
to  alight  up- 
resistance. 
s   bay,    well 

above-nicii- 
I'l'  '^ido  of  it, 
very  narrow 

sii  ,■  of  the 
("'*  ■     •■a  flic 


18:^5.] 


AND  BEERINO  S  STRAIT, 


35 


former  it  slopes  from  the  mountains  toward  the  sea  with  gentle  un- 
dulations. Several  villages  are  situated  along  the  shore  on  both 
sides,  but  principally  on  the  eastern.  Around  these  hamlets,  some 
*  diminutive  patches  of  a  more  lively  green  than  the  surrounding 
country,  show  the  very  limited  extent  to  which  cultivation  is  car- 
ried ;  of  which  we  had  further  proof  as  we  proceeded  up  the  bay, 
by  witnessing  groups  of  both  sexes  up  to  their  middle  in  the  sea, 
collecting  their  daily  subsistence  from  beds  of  chores  and  other 
shell-fish. 

Talcahuana  we  found  to  be  a  miserable  little  town,  extending 
along  the  beach,  and  up  a  once  fertile  valley  ;  divided  into  streets 
and  scpiarcs,  but  much  dilapidated,  dusty,  and  in  some  places  over- 
grown with  grass.  A  thousand  inmates  occupied  these  wretched 
dwellings,  who  acknowledged  the  supremacy  of  a  governor,  poor, 
but  independent;  .'od  intrusted  their  spiritual  concerns  to  the  care 
of  a  patriot  priest.  in  the  principal  square  stood  a  church,  in 
character  with  the  rest  of  the  buildings  ;  and  in  front  of  it  a  belfry, 
which  for  some  time  past  nmst  have  endangered  the  life  of  the 
"l.bellman.  His  occupation,  however,  was  less  laborious  than  in  other 
cat/iolic  countries,  as  it  was  here  called  into  action  but  once  in  seven 
days ;  and  was  then  attended  to  only  by  the  female  part  of  the  in- 
#iabitants. 

It  was  painful  to  compare  the  present  circumstances  of  this  place 
with  the  prosperity  that  once  prevailed,  and  impossible  to  look  upon 
the  unhappy  inhabitants  without  feelings  of  p'iy  at  the  state  to 
which  they  were  reduced.  The  other  villages  m  the  bay  were  m 
a  very  similar  condition  ;  and  one,  Tombe,  where  there  was  for- 
merly an  extensive  saltpetre  manufactory,  was  entirely  deserted. 

The  day  after  my  arrival,  I  accompanied  the  captains  of  the 
Isquadron,  and  Mr.  Nugent  the  consul  general,  to  Conception,  pur- 
suant to  an  invitation  we  received  from  the  Intendente  to  visit  that 
I  city.  Its  distance  from  Talcahuana  is  about  three  leagues.  The 
!  road,  at  first,  leads  over  a  steep  hill  to  the  eastward  of  the  town, 
!  the  summit  of  which  commands  an  excellent  view  of  the  natural 
f  advantages  of  defence  which  the  peninsula  of  Talcahuana  pos- 
sesses, and  shows  how  formidable  it  might  become  under  judicious 
management.  The  royalists  were  not  ignorant  of  this,  and  during 
the  turbulent  times  of  eiv.oncipation,  sfjught  shelter  amongst  them, 
cut  ditches,  and  threw  up  te'uporary  works  of  defence,  all  of  which 
are  now  nearly  effaced  by  the  !'R:ivy  rains  that  visit  this  country  at 
particular  periods  of  the  year.  At  the  back  of  this  range  of  hills, 
the  country  is  flat  and  occasionally  swampy,  and  continues  so,  with 
very  little  interruption,  to  the  Colle  de  Chepe,  a  small  eminence, 
whence  a  stranger  obtains  the  first  view  of  the  river  Bio  Bio  and 
the  city.     The  intendente  met  us  about  a  mile  outside  the  town, 

VOL.   I.  4 


5 


lb 
in 


I  '7 


26 


VOYAOE  TO  THE   PACIFIC 


[Oct 


and  accompanied  us  to  his  residence,  where  we  experienced  a  most 
cordial  and  hos})itable  reception. 

Conception,  (huing  its  prosperity  has  been  described  by  tlii' 
able  pens  of  Juan  de  UUoa,  La  Perouse,  and  others  ;  and  since  its 
misfortunes,  by  a  well-known  naval  author,  who  has  admirably  pic- 
tured the  ruin  and  desolation  which  the  city  at  that  time  must  liave 
presented.  Mhch  of  his  description  would  have  correctly  applied 
to  the  time  of  our  visit,  but  generally  speaking,  there  was  a  decided 
improvement  in  every  department.  The  panic  occasioned  by  the 
daring  associates  of  the  outlaw  Bcnavides,  Peneleo,  and  Pinche- 
ro.  was  beginning  to  subside.  These  chiefs,  unable  to  make  head 
against  the  people  when  united,  had  of  late  confined  their  depre- 
dations to  the  immediate  vicinity  of  their  strong-holds  among  llie 
mountains  :  the  peasants  had  returned  to  the  cultivation  of  the  soil ; 
looms  were  active  in  various  parts  of  the  town ;  and  dilapidations 
were  gradually  disappearing  before  cumbrous  brickwork  and  mason- 
ry. Commerce  was  consequently  beginning  to  revive  ;  there  were 
several  merchant-vessels  in  the  port ;  and  the  Quadra,  once  "  silent 
as  the  dead,"  now  resounded  with  the  voices  of  muleteers  con- 
ducting the  exports  and  import  of  the  country. 

The  tranquil  and  improving  condition  of  the  state  was  further 
evinced  by  the  equipment  of  an  expedition  against  the  island  of 
Chiloe,  which  still  maintained  its  allegiance  to  the  mother  country. 
The  preparations  appeared  to  give  general  satisfaction  in  Concep- 
tion, and  recruits  were  daily  enlisting,  and  training  in  the  Presidio. 
I  peeped  through  the  gate  one  morning,  and  saw  these  tyros  ii; 
arms  going  through  the  ordeal  of  the  awkward  squad.  They  were 
half  Indians,  without  shoes  or  stockings,  and  with  heads  like  mush- 
rooms. Their  appearance,  however,  was  immaterial :  they  were 
the  troops  on  which  the  j)eople  placed  their  dependence,  which  the 
result  of  the  expedition  did  not  disappoint ;  and  the  effect  upon 
their  minds  was  equally  exhilarating.  Hitherto  obliged  to  act  on 
the  defensive  against  a  few  piratical  Indian  chiefs,  they  now  found 
themselves  lending  their  troops  to  carry  on  a  warff-e  in  a  distant 
province.  Such  was  the  prosperous  state  of  affairs  at  the  time  of 
our  arrival ;  and  the  highest  expectations  pervaded  all  classes  of 
society. 

The  town  of  Conception  occupies  nearly  a  square  mile  of  ground. 
It  is  situated  on  the  noth  side  of  the  river  Bio  Bio,  and  is  distant 
from  it  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  Its  site  was  chosen  in  1763. 
about  twelve  years  after  the  old  city  of  Penco  was  destroyed  by  an 
earthquake  or  rather  by  an  inundation,  occasioned  by  a  tremendous 
reaction  of  the  sea.  Such  a  catastrophe,  it  might  be  supposed, 
would  be  sufficient  to  deter  tlie  inhabitants  from  again  building  on 
low  ground ;    nevertheless,  the  present  city  is  erected  on  a  spot 


al 

ai 
na 


Pi 


:i 


'^"^^^^ 


[Oct 

srienced  a  most 

cribed  by  tlie 
;  and  since  its 
idmirably  pic- 
me  must  liave 
rrectly  applied 
was  a  decided 
sioned  by  tlie 
,  and  Pinche- 
to  niake  bead 
1  tbeir  depre- 
ss among  tbo 
on  of  the  soil ; 
1  dilapidations 
trk  and  niason- 
e  ;  there  were 
I,  once  "  silent 
luletcers  con- 

e  was  further 

the  island  of 

ather  country. 

1   in  Concep- 

the  Presidio. 

lese  tyros  ii; 

They  were 

ds  like  musli- 

they  were 

ce,  which  the 

effect  upon 

;ed  to  act  on 

now  found 

in  a  distant 

the  time  of 

all  classes  of 

le  of  ground, 
id  is  distant 
3n  in  176.J. 
troyed  by  an 

tremendous 
3  supposed, 

building  on 
on  a  spot 


1 825.  J 


AND  BEERINc's  STIIAIT. 


27 


;l 


scarcely  more  elevated  than  the  other,  and  the  river,  when  high, 
washes  the  threshold  of  the  nearest  houses.  It  has  no  defences  ; 
and  is  also  very  badly  situated  in  tliis  respect,  being  commanded  by 
a  range  of  hills  close  behind  it.  Benavidcs  was  fully  aware  of  this, 
and  constructed  a  battery  upon  the  eminence,  which  still  bears  his 
name :  but  the  guns  are  spiked,  and  the  fort  is  in  niins. 

During  the  late  incursions,  we  were  told,  that  the  mode  of  re- 
pelling an  attack  was  to  cjilect  the  inhabitants  into  squares,  and 
barricade  the  streets  leading  out  of  them,  with  whatever  came  first 
to  hand :  the  musketry  and  the  muzzles  of  the  field-pieces  were 
then  thrust  through  these  temporary  bulwarks,  and  a  fire  opened 
upon  the  assailants.  This  was  a  sufficiently  secure  defence  against 
the  Indians,  but  it  is  easy  to  imagine  what  would  have  been  the 
effect  of  a  few  well-placed  cannon  upon  a  crowd  of  persons  so 
collected. 

In  the  selection  of  the  site  of  the  new  city,  the  advantage  of  the 
.river  Bio  Bio  was,  no  doubt,  the  great  consideration  ;  and  when  in- 
land navigation  is  as  well  understood  in  that  country  as  in  some 
others,  it  will  be  of  the  greatest  importance,  though  its  numerous 
shoals  must  occasion  serious  difliculties.  Part  of  the  produce  of  the 
interior  is  now  brought  down  upon  rafts,  which,  not  being  able  to  return, 
'are  broken  up  and  sold  for  timber.  There  is  a  ferry-lioat  over  the 
river  for  the  accommodation  of  persons  who  wish  to  pass  from  Con- 
ception to  the  Indian  country,  and  sufficiently  large  to  carry  cattle  or 
horses.  The  natives  cross  in  punts,  but  have  so  much  difficulty 
in  stemming  the  current  and  avoiding  banks  and  shallows,  that, 
though  the  extreme  distance  is  only  a  mile,  they  are  sometimes  an 
hour  and  a  half  performing  the  passage.  Although  the  Spaniards 
nominally  ])ossessed  territory  far  to  the  southward  of  this  river,  yet 
it  in  reality  formed  their  boundary,  and  until  very  lately  it  was  un- 
safe for  an  European,  to  venture  far  upon  tliat  side,  on  account  of 
straggling  parties  of  the  Indians.*  The  mouth  of  the  Bio  Bio  is 
circumscribed  by  banks,  which  have  progressively  risen,  to  210 
yards  ;  and  even  this  narrow  stream  is  divided  by  a  rock  one-third 
of  the  way  across  it.  If  the  plan  of  the  entrance  be  correct  in  the 
chart  annexed  to  La  Perouse's  Voyage,  the  formation  of  these 
banks  has  been  very  rapid,  and  has  altered  the  channel  of  the  river. 

The  population  of  Conception  is  about  6500  persons.  The  in- 
habitants, the  labouring  cla.'^s  at  least,  have  a  particularly  healthy  look. 
The  men  have  hard  features  and  strong  sinewy  limbs,  and  the  wo- 
men and  cliildren  are  fatter  than  would  be  agreeable  to  most  per- 
sons :  short  stature,  dark  hair  and  eyes,  and  pretty  Indian  features, 

*  I  have  been  informed  that  since  this  period  (1825),  the  Intendente  has  a  magni- 
firent  estate  on  that  side  of  the  river,  that  the  Indians  are  quiet,  and  that  Concep- 
tion has  undergone  great  improvement. 


wmm 


i    i 


1:^ 


.'  I' 


\l\ 


,  1    !  ■ 


•I' 


^J 


V 


« 


If 


28 


VOYAfiK   'r(»  TIIK    I'ACIKIC 


[Oct. 


are  the  characteristics  of  their  persons.  They  are  subject  to  but 
few  diseases  ;  and  for  these  they  liave  their  own  remedies,  consist- 
ing jH  incipally  of  medicinal  herbs,  with  which  the  country  abounds, 
and  in  the  preparation  of  which  they  are  well  skilled.  Fevers,  oc- 
casioned by  cold  and  dampness,  are  the  most  common  complaints. 

In  the  streets  of  Conception  1  did  not  see  a  single  cripple,  a  very 
rare  circumstance  in  Spanish  towns  ;  nor  were  we  molested  by  beg- 
gars, beyond  a  few  troublesome  boys  beseecliing  alms ;  and  this 
arose  more  from  impudence,  and  a  determination  to  try  their  luck, 
than  from  any  real  necessity :  in  secret,  iiowever,  there  are  not 
wanting  persons  who,  if  opportunity  offered,  would  not  only  solicit 
charity,  but  enforce  their  demand  with  a  pistol  or  a  stiletto.  On 
meeting  the  Indians  in  an  imfrequented  part  of  the  country,  it  is 
particularly  necessary  to  be  on  your  guard  ;  for  these  half-civilized 
barbarians  are  generally  intoxicated,  and  care  very  little  about  in- 
sulting or  maltreating  strangers  even  in  the  heart  of  the  town,  mucli 
less  when  alone  in  the  country.  A  regiment  o.  Araucaneans  is 
embodied  in  the  army  of  the  state,  and  quartered  in  the  town : 
they  retain  their  own  weapons,  and  continue  their  own  tactics.  A 
specimen  of  their  extraordinary  and  barbarous  warfare  was  exhib- 
ited at  Conception  during  our  stay. 

Since  the  trade  of  Chili  has  been  thrown  open,  a  remarkable 
change  in  the  costume  of  the  inhabitants,  and  also  in  the  furniture 
of  their  houses,  has  taken  place  ;  and  an  Englishman  may  now  see 
with  pride  the  inferior  manufactures  of  his  ov.n  country  prized,  to 
the  exclusion  of  the  costly  gold  and  silver  tissue  stuffs  of  Spain, 
which,  Perouse  observes,  were  entailed  in  families  like  diamonds. 
and  descended  from  the  great-grandmother  to  the  children  of  tlie 
third  and  fourth  generation.  Even  the  national  musical  instrument, 
the  guitar,  has  fallen  into  neglect,  and  has  been  su])planted  by  the 
English  piano-forte.  It  would  have  l>een  better  for  the  lower  orders 
of  society,  of  which  a  large  portion  of  the  population  of  Concep- 
tion consists,  if  the  use  of  tliis  simple  instrument  had  been  retained  : 
for  it  is  well  known,  in  foreign  countries,  how  many  hours  of  inno- 
cent miith  are  beguiled  in  the  happy  circles  it  assembles  around  the 
cottage  doors ;  and  how  many  idle  characters  its  fascination  deters 
from  indulging  in  less  innocent  occupations,  to  which  the  Chilians 
are  equally  prone  with  other  nations ;  though  I  am  by  no  means 
an  advocate  for  its  being  prized  to  the  extent  it  once  was  by  tlie 
Portuguese,  who,  after  a  battle  in  which  they  were  defeated,  left 
14,000  guitars  upon  the  field.* 

The  entertainments  most  frequented  in  Conception  are  cock- 
fighting  and  billiards.      All  classes  of  society  assemble  at  the  pit. 

♦  Mengiana,  torn.  i. 


pf 

bil 


taJ 


IV 


lOtv. 

subject  to  but 
iiedies,  consist- 
untry  abounds. 
I.  Fevers,  oc- 
)n  complaints, 
cripple,  a  very 
alested  by  beg- 
Inisj  and  this 
try  their  luck, 
there  are  not 
lot  only  solicit 
stiletto.  On 
country,  it  is 
3  half-civilized 
little  about  in- 
he  town,  nuicli 
iraucaneans  is 
in  the  town : 
n  tactics.  A 
ire  was  exhib- 

,  a  remarkable 

1  the  furniture 

J  may  now  see 

try  prized,  to 

ufFs  of  Spain, 

ike  diamonds. 

ildren  of  the 

il  instrument. 

[mted  by  the 

lower  orders 

of  Concep- 

en  retained ; 

nurs  of  inno- 

Bs  around  the 

nation  deters 

the   Chilians 

)y  no  means 

was   by  the 

efeated,  left 

are  cock- 
at  the  |)it, 


IH^j.| 


AND  BERlUNfJ  S  STRAIT. 


S9 


and  if  there  be  no  figlit,  will  light  their  cigars,  and  chat  whole  hours 
awav,  in  the  hope  of  a  match  being  made  up,  and  are  dispersed  only 
by  the  approach  of  night.  The  English  cocks  are  most  esteemed, 
and  are  sometimes  valued  at  a  hundred  dollars  a-apiece  (twenty 
guineas).  The  Chilian  sjiurs  cut  as  well  as  thrust,  and  greatly  short- 
en the  cruel  exhibition.  Some  of  the  governors  are  said  to  have  im- 
posed a  tax  on  these  establishments  for  their  own  private  advantage, 
but  witiiout  the  authority  of  the  laws. 

»     Of  the   country  round  Conception  I  have  little   to  say,  except 
*-that  it  has  undergone  a  great  chang'^  since  tlie  days  of  its  prosper- 
ity.    In  the  parallel  of  37"  on  the  western  side  of  a  great  contin- 
ent a  luxuriant  soil  may  be  expected  to  produce  an  abundant  vege- 
tation.    This  district  has,  in  consequence,  been  famous  for  its  grain, 
vines,  fruits,  esculent  roots,  &tc.  and  for  its  pasture  lands,  on  which 
formerly  were  reared  immense  herds  of  cattle,  and  horses  of  the 
^finest  breed.     But  the  effects  of  the  disturbed  state  of  the  country 
fare  as  manifest  here  as  in  the  different  parts  of  the  city.      At  pres- 
,ent,  as  much  arable  land  as  is  absolutely  necessary  for  the  support 
■of  the  inhabitants  is  cleared,  and  no  more  ;  and  even  its  produce  is 
but  scantily  enjoyed  by  the  lower  classes  on  the  coast,  who  are 
obliged  to  subsist  almost  entirely  upon  shell-fish.     The  soil,  if  at- 
tended to,  will  give  an  abundant  return  :  wheat,  barley,  Indian  corn, 
beans,  pease,  potatoes,  and  arrow-root;  grapes,  apples,  pears,  cur- 
..rants,  strawberries,  and  olives,  are  the  common  produce  of  the 
country.     From  the  latter  a  fine  oil  is  extracted ;    but  the  fruit  is 
too  rank  to  be  eaten  at  table,  except  by  the  natives.     The  arrow- 
root is  of  a  good  quahty  and  very  cheap.     In  the  ravines  and  moist 
places,  the  panquc  (^gunnera  scabro)  grows  luxuriantly  and  strong : 
it  is  a  very  useful  root,  and  serves  for  several  purposes  ;    a  pleasant 
1^  and  cooling  drink  is  extracted  from  it,  which  is  deemed  beneficial 
in  feverish  complaints  ;  its  root  furnishes  a  liquid  serviceable  in  tan- 
ning, and  superior  to  any  of  the  barks  of  South  America ;    when 
-  made  into  tarts,  it  is  scarcely  inferior  to  the  rhubarb,  for  which  it  is 
•I'i  sometimes  mistaken ;    and  it  is  eaten  in  strips   after  dinner,  with 
r   cheese  and  wine,  he.      Several  European  shrubs  and  herbaceous 
plants  grow  here,  but  more  luxuriantly  than  in  our  own  country ; 
among   these  were  hemlock,  flax,  duckweed,  pimpernel,  water- 
:"    cresses,  and  a  species  of  elder. 

-:  The  wines  which  were  formerly  so  much  esteemed,  and  carried 
■  along  the  coast  to  the  northward,  are  now  greatly  deteriorated,  and 
in  the  sea-port  much  adulterated.  There  is  a  great  variety  of 
them,  and  in  general  they  are  very  intoxicating.  The  only  palat- 
able kind  I  tasted  was  made  from  the  vines  on  the  estate  of  Gen- 
eral Friere,  and  for  which  I  was  indebted  to  the  liberality  of  the 
governor,  as  there  was  none  to  be  purchased.  This  wine,  though 
agreeable  to  the  English  palate,  is  not  in  such  estimation  with  the 


\i\ 


f 


t.*l: 


i 


.u 


^I  i 


'  ,'/ 


i; 


I 


•.  ;<i 


ii 


30 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PAClFlf 


[Oct. 


Chilians  as  one  that  has  a  strong  empyreiunatic  flavour.  It  ac- 
quires  this  in  the  process  of  heating,  or  rather  of  boiling,  the  fruit, 
which  is  done  with  a  view  to  extract  a  larger  proportion  of  the 
juice  than  could  he  obtained  by  the  ordinary  means,  and  to  pro- 
duce a  mellowness  which  age  only  could  otherwise  give.  Cici  and 
niattee  are  still  in  use,  though  less  so  than  formerly ;  and  indeed  it 
a))peared  to  me  that  the  Chilians  were  fast  getting  rid  of  all  their 
old  customs,  of  which  the  drinking  of  mattee  is  one. 

After  passing  a  very  pleasant  time  in  the  society  of  the  Intcii- 
dente,  we  took  our  leave,  and  returned  to  the  port.  Our  occupa- 
tions there  were  divided  between  astronomical  observations,  makiiisj 
a  survey  of  the  bays  of  Conception  and  St.  Vincent,  and  equipping 
the  ship  for  sea. 

I  had  some  hesitation  in  procuring  coal  for  our  sea-stock  of  fuel ; 
not  that  the  article  was  become  scarce,  but  on  account  of  the  enor- 
mous price  to  which  the  owner  thought  proper,  on  this  occasion,  to 
raise  it.  Captain  Hall  states,  that  when  he  was  at  this  place,  the 
Penco  coal,  which  was  the  best,  was  sold  for  twelve  shillings  a  ton, 
all  expenses  included ;  but  the  same  quantity  was  now  valued  at 
nine  dollars,  besides  the  labour  of  digging  and  carrying.  Tiiis 
arose  from  a  report  that  some  mines  which  liad  been  recently  dis- 
covered v/ere  about  to  be  worked,  which  would  occasion  a  great  and 
permanent  demand  for  the  material.  The  coal  is  of  a  Very  inferior 
quality,  and  fit  only  for  the  forge.  Hitherto,  however,  experiment 
has  been  made  only  upon  that  which  is  near  the  surface  :  when  the 
mines  are  worked,  if  they  ever  be,  a  better  quality,  in  all  probabil- 
ity, will  be  obtained.  Talcahuana  and  Penco  are,  I  believe,  the 
only  places  where  coal  has  yet  been  discovered  near  Conception. 
Were  this  article  of  a  good  quality  and  reasonable,  there  would  be 
a  great  demand  for  it  at  Valparaiso,  and  among  the  several  squad- 
rons upon  the  station  ;  and  it  would  probably  be  well  worth  the 
exi)eriment  of  the  owner  to  search  a  little  deeper  in  the  earth,  and 
ascertain  the  nature  of  the  lower  strata.  These  veins  occur  in  red 
sandstone  formation,  and  do  not  appear  at  the  surface  to  be  very 
extensive,  or  to  promise  any  very  large  supply  of  fuel.  This  ob- 
servation applies  only  to  that  part  of  the  coast  which  lies  in  the  vi- 
cinity of  Conception  and  the  port,  a  large  proportion  of  which  is 
composed  of  diluvial  depositions. 

We  are  informed  by  a  visiter  to  this  country,  that  limestone  is  found 
at  Conception,  and  is  used  by  the  inhabitants  for  whitewashing  their 
houses;  but  this  is  evidently  a  mistake,  as  the  natives  collect  shells, 
and  calcine  them  for  that  purpose;  besides,  in  no  part  of  the  bay  or 
vicinity  of  Conception  could  we  perceive  limestone,  or  even  hear  of 
its  existence.  A  gentleman  pointed  out  a  place  to  the  northward 
of  Tome  Bay  where,  he  said,  it  occurred ;  but,  on  examination,  only 
clay-slate,  chert,  and  green-stone  were  found. 


ani 


in£ 


.-*■ 


[Oct. 

ivour.  It  ac- 
iling,  the  fruit, 
portion  of  the 
s,  and  to  pro- 
Ive.  Cici  and 
and  indeed  it 
rid  of  all  their 

of  the  Inten- 
Our  occupa- 

'ations,  making; 

and  equippins; 

-stock  of  fuel ; 
it  of  the  enor- 
lis  occasion,  to 
Ills  place,  the 
shillings  a  ton, 
now  valued  at 
rrying.       This 
recently  dis- 
ion  a  great  and 
a  Very  inferior 
;r,  experiment 
ce  :  when  the 
1  all  probahil- 
believe,  the 
Conception, 
would  be 
everal  squad- 
ill  worth  the 
le  earth,  and 
occur  in  red 
to  be  very 
This  ob- 
ies  in  the  vi- 
of  which  is 

tone  is  found 
ashing  their 
)llect  shells, 

the  bay  or 
even  hear  of 

northward 
nation,  only 


18^25.] 


AND    BEERINO  9    STRAIT. 


31 


ere 


As  the  geology  of  Conception  will  a|)pear  in  another  place,  I 
shall  merely  observe  here,  that  in  the  secondary  sandstone  a  va- 
riety of  petrifactions  occur,  of  wood,  shells,  and  bones,  formed  by 
an  infiltration  of  siliceous  and  calcareous  matter.  The  little  island 
of  Quinquina  presents  alternate  horizontal  strata  of  pebbles,  sand- 
stone, and  petrified  substances,  principally  of  wood,  and  vertebral 
•end  other  bones  of  the  whale.  On  the  opposite  shore  a  fossil  nau- 
tilus was  found,  which  measured  three  feet  in  diameter.  Upon  the 
beach,  in  several  parts  of  the  bay,  there  are  ridges  of  magnetic 
iron-sand  which  the  waves  have  thrown  up :  they  are  seen  adher- 
ing together,  apparently  by  mutual  attraction. 

The  abundance  of  shell-fish  in  Conception  entices  a  great  many 
birds  within  the  bay .  The  shore  is  occasionally  thronged  with 
them,  and  the  shags  somethnes  fly  in  an  unbroken  line  of  two  miles 
and  more  in  length.  The  quebranta  huessos,  the  black-backed 
gull,  a  species  of  tern,  and  two  or  three  species  of  pelican,  one  of 
^hich  pursues  its  food  in  a  very  entertaining  manner.  It  first  soars 
to  a  great  height,  and  then  suddenly  darts  into  the  sea,  splashing 
the  water  in  all  directions:  in  a  few  seconds,  it  emerges  and  re- 
sumes its  lofty  flight  imtil  again  attracted  by  its  prey,  when  it  plun- 
ges into  the  sea  as  before,  and  thus  the  flock,  for  these  birds  are 
gregarious,  ranges  over  the  whole  bay,  performing  all  its  motions  in 
concert  and  with  a  surprising  rapidity.  The  penguin  is  also  here, 
-and  a  very  large  species  of  duck,  the  female  of  which  has  a  callosity 
on  the  shoulder  of  each  wing,  and  is  very  excellent  eating  ;  a  species 
of colymbus  with  lobed  toes;  curlews,  sea-pies,  horned  plovers,  a 
beautiful  species  of  chaverey,  with  iridescent  plumage;  the  oyster- 
eater,  or  razor  bill,  and  sanderlings ;  turkey  buzzards,  the  condor, 
several  species  of  hawks,  owls,  black-birds,  and  wood-pigeons,  the 
latter  of  which  are  very  large  and  good  to  eat ;  a  very  beautiful  spe- 
cies of  duck,  frequenting  the  marshes  and  lakes  between  Talcahuana 
and  Conception ;  partridges,  a  species  of  woodpecker,  a  dark-brown 
fringilla,  with  a  beautiful  scarlet  breast,  a  species  of  lozia,  turdus, 
hirundo,  ampelis,  not  remarkable  for  their  plumage,  and  numerous 
flocks  of  green  parrots,  which  the  ChilianSpaniard,  who  eats  almost 
every  kind  of  bird,  has  no  objection  to  place  upon  his  table.  The 
domesticated  fowls  are  the  same  here  as  in  Europe.  The  reptiles 
are  few,  and  not  venomous :  small  lizards  are  extremely  common  on 
the  rocks,  and  among  the  trees.  There  are  one  or  two  species  of 
snakes ;  a  large  one,  resembling  the  common  English  adder  is  fre- 
quent, and  a  small  green  snake  was  caught  by  one  of  the  ofiicers. 

The  fish  are  not  very  numerous,  only  coming  into  the  bay  with 
a  particular  wind.  The  number  of  whales  which  guard  the  en- 
trance, and  the  shoals  of  seals,  grampusses,  and  porpoises,  which 
crowd  the  bay,  must  destroy  a  great  many.      Shell-fish  are  an  ex- 


{ 


i; 


..  t 


32 


VOYAGE  TO  THK   PACIFIC 


[0(7. 


ceptioii  to  this  scarcity,  ami  being  very  large,  form  no  small  portion 
of  the  food  of  those  inhabitants  who  live  on  the  borders  of  the  hav. 
Hesides  the  choros,  a  large  muscle,  and  locas  (<•(  icho  kpus),  men. 
tioncd  by  Ulloa,  there  are  several  other  small  .,peeies  which  an,. 
more  esteemed  than  the  large  choros,  a  number  of  razor,  and  sonic 
venus-shells.  Large  sea-eggs  are  highly  prized,  and,  like  tiie  oth- 
ers, eaten  raw.  The  smaller  shell-fish  are,  various  sorts  of  limpeis, 
turbots,  neritas,  murex,  and  some  others :  there  are  also  a  grem 
many  crabs. 

In  the  survey  of  the  Bay  of  Conception,  a  shoal  was  discovercil 
by  Lieutenant  IJelcher  on  the  Peneo  side,  which  is  probably  tlmi 
upon  which  a  vessel  struck  some  time  previous,  but  which  tlic 
boats  of  the  squadron  could  not  afterwards  find.  It  was  necess;n\ 
to  make  some  alteration  in  the  position  of  Belen  bank,  from  the 
manner  in  which  it  is  laid  down  in  the  Spanish  charts,  and  the 
shoal  said  to  occur  oft'  the  sandy  j)oint  of  Quiriquina  docs  not  in 
fact  exist.  The  western  entrance  was  thoroughly  examined,  and 
found  to  be  quite  safe,  though  vory  narrow,  and  should  only  be  used 
in  all  cases  of  diflicuhy  in  weatlieiing  Paxaros  Nines,  with  a  north- 
erly wind.  The  bay  of  St.  Vincent  does  not  appear  to  me  to  af- 
ford security  to  any  vessel  of  more  than  a  hundred  tons  with  a 
strong  westerly  wind ;  and  I  would  advise  no  large  ship  to  put  in 
there  under  such  circumstances,  if  she  could  possibly  avoid  it. 
Further  information  on  the  subject  will  be  found  among  the  Nau- 
tical Remarks. 

Conception,  as  a  place  of  refreshment,  in  every  way  answered 
our  expectations :  fresh  beef,  poultry,  good  water,  vegetables,  and 
wood  are  to  be  liad :  they  happened  to  be  dear  at  the  time  of  our 
visit,  but  no  doubt,  if  the  country  remains  tranquil,  they  will  be 
both  cheap  and  more  abundant. 

.  On  the  20tli  our  operations  were  completed  ;  but  a  strong  north- 
erly wind  prevented  our  putting  to  sen,  and  we  anchored  under  tiie 
little  island  of  Quiriquina.  This  is  a  very  secure  stopping  place, 
and,  in  the  winter  season,  a  better  anchorage  to  refit  a  ship  at,  than 
that  off  Talcahuana.  It  is  small,  and  a  ship  must  lie  very  close  to 
the  shore.  After  two  days  of  contrary  wind,  we  put  to  sea  on  the 
24th,  and  three  days  afterwards  anchored  at  Valparaiso,  in  the  hope 
of  receiving  some  supplies  which  we  could  not  procure  at  Concej)- 
tion  ;  but  being  disappointed  in  their  arrival,  on  the  29th  we 
weighed,  and  took  our  final  leave  of  the  coast. 


m 


saw 


''     if 


i 


aj. 


I  Oil. 

o  small  poriioii 
lurs  of  tlu;  hay. 

0  /e2)iis),  mon- 
ies wliicli  iiii' 
zor,  iiiifl  sonic 
,  liko  llio  oth- 
Hts  of  limpets. 
}  also  a  gicm 

vas  (liscovorcil 
probably  tlmt 
•lit  wliici)  the 
ivas  necess;ii\ 
ank,  from  t\\v 
larts,  and   tlic 

1  docs  not  in 
xamincd,  and 
J  only  be  used 

witb  a  nortli- 
r  to  nie  to  al- 
I  tons  with  a 
liip  to  put  in 
ibiy  avoid  it. 
nig  the  Nau- 

ay  answered 
getables,  and 
!  time  of  our 
they  will  be 

strong  north- 
ed under  tiie 
pping  place, 
ship  at,  than 
k^ery  close  to 
o  sea  on  the  . 
in  the  hope 
at  Conce])- 
ic  29th  we 


,1825.] 


AVn  IIKF.RIN(i  S   STKMT. 


;j3 


CHAPTER  n. 


Ltave  tho  Cn.ist  of  Ciiili — Visit  Sala-y-Goincz — Eastrr  Lsland— HoBtiln  Rcrcp- 
tion  tlierc — Description  of  tlio  lalialjituiits,  I.tluiut,  &c. — Eiitrr  tlie  dang-croiis 
Arcliipelug-o— Davis'  Island— Elizabeth  or  Henderson's  Island,  its  singulur  For- 
mation— See  Pitcairn  island. 

On  leaving  Valptiraiso,  my  intention  was,  if  possible,  to  pass 
within  sight  of  Juan  Fernandez,  in  order  to  determine  its  position  ; 
but  finding  the  wind  would  not  allow  us  to  ap|)roach  sufficiently 
near  even  to  see  it,  we  kept  away  for  the  island  of  Sala-y-Gomez, 
and  with  the  view  of  making  this  part  of  tlie  voyage  useful,  the 
ship's  course  was  directed  between  the  tracks  of  Vancouver  and 
.  falespina  on  the  south  side,  and  many  other  navigators  on  the 
north,  who,  engaged  in  pursuits  similar  to  our  own,  had  run  down 
die  parallels  of  27°  and  28°  S.  i;^  search  of  the  land  discovered  by 
Davis.  These  parallels,  during  the  summer  months,  are  subject  to 
light  and  variable  airs ;  and  we,  in  consequence,  made  very  slow 
progress,  particularly  as  we  approached  the  meridian  of  the  island, 
where  it  became  necessary  to  adopt  the  precaution  of  lying-to 
every  night,  that  the  object  of  our  search  might  not  be  passed  un- 
observed. 

When  the  nights  were  clear,  we  continued  our  observations  on 
the  comet.  On  the  30th  the  coma  had  increased  to  the  enormous 
length  of  24° ;  the  nucleus  was  larger  and  more  brilliant  than  be- 
fore ;  and  the  ray  before-mentioned  as  forming  part  of  the  coma, 
was  more  distinct  and  apparently  at  a  greater  angle  with  it  than 
when  first  seen. 

The  day  after  we  quitted  the  coast  of  Chili,  all  the  birds  left  us  ; 
even  the  pintados,  which  had  been  our  constant  attenr'  -.rs  for  up- 
wards of  5000  miles,  deserted  us  on  this  occasion.      '.'  ••  afterwards 
saw  very  little  on  the  wing,  1  believe  nothing,  except  a  wandering 
■albatross,  until  we  approached  the  island  of  Sala-y-Gomez. 
.;|     Fn  tho  Pacific,  in  particular,  the  navigator  should  not  be  inatten- 
Aivc  to  the  presence  or  absence  of  birds,  as   they  will  generally  be 
**found  in  the   vicinity  of  islands,  and   especially  of  sucli  as  are  un- 
.^inhabitcd  and  of  coral  formation.     On  the    Hth,  several  tropic 

B      VOL.   I.  5 


I 


m 


'l 

II 

'  1 

-M 

\ 

ii  ■•  1  i 


I 'I' 


•M 


VOVAfiK   TO  TIIF.    I'ACIFIC 


I  A, 


birds,  boatswains,  and  nanncts,  (lew  roiiiul  llio  ship,  and  were  liail- 
od  as  an  onion  wliicli  did  not  dccuivo  ns,  for  al  dayli^lit,  on  ilic 
followinjj;  niorninii,  tlit;  islnnd  of  Sala-y-Cionioz  was  soon  from  llii; 
niast-hoad.  bi-minu;  N.  N.  VV.,  iillccn  miles  distant. 

Wo  shortly  olosod  with  this  isolali'd  spot,  and  I'onnd  its  oxliiii 
innch  loss  than  has  boon  stated.  It  is,  indeed,  sraicely  more  tlinn 
a  heap  of  riit;sied  stones,  which  the  elements  appiar  to  havi 
thrown  to!i;(;tlier,  and  in  a  t;ale  of  wind  would  not  bo  distinj;nislK'(| 
amidst  the  spray.  The  rocks,  except  snch  as  have  been  seleclid 
for  rooslinp;  |)laees  by  the  sea-gulls,  are  of  a  dark-brown  enloiir. 
Upon  a  small  tiat  spot  there  was  a  inoss-liko  vegetation,  and  near 
it  a  few  logs  of  wood,  or  planks,  which  the  Imagination  might  con- 
vert  into  the  remains  of  some  miserable  vessel  whose  timbers  had 
there  found  a  resting-place.  Though  several  vessels  have  been 
missing  in  these  seas,  we  have  no  intelligence  of  any  having  been 
wrecked  here.  Sala-y-Gomez,  when  he  discovered  the  island,  im- 
agined he  found  the  frame  of  a  vessel  upon  it,  and  in  all  probabil- 
ity the  wood  which  we  saw  was  the  same ;  but  whether  it  was  so 
or  not,  our  curiosity  and  desire  to  land  were  fully  awakened,  thon;;li 
we  were  disappointed  by  the  high  breakers  which  rolled  over  every 
part  of  the  shore. 

We  remained  some  time  under  the  lee  of  the  island,  narrowly 
scnitinizing  it  with  our  telescopes,  but  vvithc  dding  to  our  infor- 
mation. During  this  time  the  ship  was  sur  ?d  by  sharks  and 
bonitos,  but  none  were  taken,  nor  were  our  ..^..ernien  more  fortu- 
nate at  the  bottom.  The  feathery  tribe,*  disturbed  from  their 
roost,  came  fearlessly  around  us ;  we  shot  several,  and  in  the  stom- 
ach of  a  pelican  a  volcanic  pebble  was  found,  which  some  of  us 
conjectured  to  have  been  gathered  upon  the  island,  and  thence  in- 
ferred its  particular  formation. 

Sftla-y-Gomez,  when  first  seen  has  the  appearance  of  three 
roclcs :  its  direction  is  N.  W.  and  S.  E.  ;  and  it  is  something  less 
than  half  a  mile  in  length,  and  a  fifth  of  a  mile  in  width.  Somo 
sunken  rocks  lie  off  the  N.  E.  and  S.  E.  points :  in  other  direc- 
tions the  island  may  be  approached  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile. 
N.  50°  W.  I  mile  there  are  soundings  ;  in  46  fathoms  sand  and 
coral;  and  N.  33°  W.  Ijj  mile,  140  fathoms  gray  sand.  A  refer- 
ence to  the  geographical  table  will  show  the  position  of  the  island. 
and  I  shall  here  only  remark,  that  Captain  Kotzebue's  latitude 
is  nine  miles  in  error,  which  perhaps  may  be  a  typographical 
mistake. 

From  hence  we  bore  away  to  the  westward,  with  the  intention 

♦Phnston  ethereus,  Pelicanus  Icucocophalue,  .sterna  stolida,  and  a  small  duvo-rcl- 
oured  tern. 


oil 

'A 

**^an| 
tril 
qu| 

nul 
Ue 

er 

4o| 


-iv 


and  were  hail. 
ii}iij;lil,  on  ih,,. 
•soon  from   llii. 

)IIM(I  its    CXlcill 

•fly  nioi-c  tliaii 
|>|H'ar  to  have 
i  (li.stinjfui.slit>(| 
i  Ixjcn  solecioil 
-brown  colour. 
iUioii,  and  near 
ion  might  con- 
ise  timbers  had 
els  have  been 
y  having  been 
the  ishmd,  im- 
n  all  probabil- 
ther  it  was  so 
ikened, though 
lied  over  every 

land,  narrowly 
or  to  onr  inlbr- 
by  sharks  and 
1  more  fortu- 
ed  from  their 
d  in  the  stoin- 
some  of  us 
md  thence  in- 

ncc  of  three 

omething;  le-;s 

idth.     Some 

n  other  direc- 

r  of  a  mile. 

lis  sand  and 

A  rofor- 

of  the  island. 

•lie's  latitude 

ypographical 

he  intention 

■-^inall  (iovp-rnl- 


,J8v>5.J 


ANP  BK.KniNC  S   ><TKAIT. 


86 


**: 


of  passing  near  the  situation  of  an  island  named  Washington  and 
Collin,  roi)orled  to  have  been  discovered  by  an  American  shi|). 
At  siiiisi!t  we  were  within  four  leagues  of  the  spot,  with  a  perfectly 
clear  sky  and  horizon,  but  could  see  nothing  of  it ;  nor  had  we 
any  indication  of  land  in  the  innnediale  vicinity,  but  rather  the  con- 
trary, as  the  birds  which  had  followe'l  us  from  Sala-y-Gomez  had 
quitted  the  ship  some  time  before.  As  the  night  was  fine,  and  the 
moon  gave  sufHcient  light  to  disc  ner  in  time  any  danger  that  might 
lie  in  the  route  of  the  ship,  the  course  was  continued  toward  East- 
er Island,  and  daylight  appeared   without  any   thing  being  seen. 

•  jHad  such  an  island  been  in  existence,  and  answered  the  descrip- 
ijfon  of  that  upon  which  Davis  was  so  near  losing  his  vessel,  geog- 
raphers would  not  have  been  long  in  reconciling  their  opinions  on 
the  subject  of  his  discovery,  as,  in  all  probability,  they  would  have 
waived  their  objection  to  its  distance  from  Copiapo,  in  considera- 
tion of  its  identity. 
.    The  subject  of  this  sujiposed  discovery  has  been  often  discussed  ; 

38*end  u  here  the  data  are  so  unsatisfactory  as  to  allow  one  party  to 
choose  the  Islands  of  Felix  and  Ambrose  for  the  land  in  question, 
*'and  the  other,  Easter  Island,  two  places  nearly  1600  miles  apart, 
they  are  not  likely  to  be  speedily  leconciled,  unless  two  islands 
exactly  answering  the  description  given  by  Davis,  and  situated  in 
the  proper  latitude,  shall  be  found.  Such  persons  as  are  curiously 
.disposed  on  this  subject  will  find  it  ably  treated  by  the  late  Cap- 
lain  Burney,  R.  N.,  in  his  account  of  the  Buccaneers. 

Without  entering  into  a  question  which  presents  so  many  diffi- 
culties, 1  shall  merely  observe,  that,  considering  the  rapid  current 
that  exists  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Galapagos,  and  extends,  though 
with  diminished  force,  throughout  the  trade  wind,  the  error  in  Da- 
vis's reckoning  is  not  more  than  might  have  ha])pened  to  any  dull 
sailing  vessel  circumstanced  as  his  was.  To  substantiate  this,  I 
shall  advert  to  four  instances  out  of  many  others  which  might  be 
named.  In  a  short  run  from  Juan  Fernandez  to  Easter  Island, 
Behrens,  who  was  with  Roggevvein,  was  drifted  318  geographical 
miles  from  his  supposed  situation.  The  Blossom,  in  passing  over 
the  same  ground,  in  the  short  space  of  eighteen  days  experienced 
a  set  of  5J70  miles  ;  and  on  her  passage  from  Acapulo  to  Valparai- 
so of  401  miles  :  and  again  M.  La  Perouse,  on  his  arrival  at  the 
Sandwich  Islands  from  Conception,  touching  at  Easter  Island  on 
his  way,  found  a  shnilar  error  of  300  miles  in  the  course  of  that 
passage.  It  is  fair  to  presume  that  the  passage  of  Davis  from  the 
Galapagos  to  Easter  Island  was  longer  than  that  of  either  of  the 
above-mentioned  vessels  ;  and  consecjucntly  it  is  but  reasonable  to 
allow  him  a  greater  error,  })articularly  as  the  first  part  of  his  route 
was  through  a  nuich  stronger  current.     But  taking  the  error  in  the 


'i*^ 


li  I 


B6 


VOYAfi?:  TO  THE   PACIt'lC 


[iVr 


or, 


Blossom's  reckoning  as  a  lair  amount,  and  applying  it  to  the  dis- 
tance given  liy  Wafer,  there  will  rema.n  only  !204  miles  unacccunt. 
ed  for  between  it  and  the  roal  position  of  Easter  Island,  whicli 
froiJ  the  foregoing  considerations,  added  to  the  manner  in  which 
reckonings  were  ibrmerly  kept,  does  not  appear  to  me  to  exceed 
*he  limit  that  might  reasonably  be  ascribed  to  those  causes. 

M.  La  Perouse  was  of  opinion  that  the  islands  of  I  elix  and 
Ambrose  were  those  under  discussion,  and  in  order  to  reconcile 
their  distance  from  Ccpiapo  with  that  given  by  Wafer,  he  has  im- 
puted to  him  the  mistake  of  a  figure  in  his  text,  without  considei- 
ing  that  it  w'ould  have  been  next  to  impossible  for  Davis  to  have 
pursued  a  direct  course  from  the  Galapagos  to  those  islands,  (es- 
pecially at  the  season  in  which  his  voyage  was  made,)  but  on  the 
contrary  that  he  would  be  compelled  to  make  a  circuit  which  would 
have  brou'iht  him  much  nearer  to  Easter  Island  ;  and  that  Davi; 
acquainted  Dampier  with  the  situation  of  his  discovery,  whicli 
agreed  with  that  contained  in  Wafer's  account.  The  alteration  in 
a  figure,  it  must  be  admitted,  is  rather  arbitrary,  as  it  has  notl  i  ii; 
t-.  uppOit  it  but  the  circumstance  of  the  number  of  island?  uc.^vs 
the  same.  A  mistake  certainly  inigh;  have  occurred,  but  in  tin' 
adtnission  of  it  either  party  may  claim  it  as  an  advantage  by  intei- 
pr'~tir.g  the  presumed  error  in  a  way  which  would  support  their 
own  opinions. 

7\.t  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of  the  16th  of  November,  East- 
er Island  was  seen  from  the  mast-head,  bearing  N.  78°  W.  (Mag,) 
fcarteen  or  sixteen  leagues,  and  we  w-ere  consequently  very  nearly 
in  the  situation  of  the  long  looked  for,  small,  sandy  island,  whicli, 
had  it  existed  within  reasonable  limits  of  its  supposed  plact ,  could 
not  have  escaped  our  obser*  ntion.  INothing  of  it  however  was 
seen,  nor  had  we  any  indication  of  the  vicinity  of  such  a  spot  a? 
we  proceeded,  though  we  must  haveacLually  passed  over  the  place 
assigned  to  it.  Easter  Island  had  at  first  the  appeara  f  e  of  beiiii 
divided  into  two,  rat'.ier  flat  at  the  top,  with  rounded  ^^apes ;  tlif 
north-eastern  of  which  is  distinguished  by  two  hillocks.  To  avoid 
o\er-running  the  distance,  the  shi})  was  hove-to  at  night,  and  at 
daylight  on  the  following  morning  we  bore  up  for  the  northern 
shore  of  the  island.  1  preferred  tnat  side,  as  it  had  been  but  piii- 
tially  examined  by  Captain  Cook,  and  not  at  all  by  IVI.  l^a  Perouse, 

As  we  approached,  we  observed  numerous  small  craters  risiiii:; 
above  the  low  land,  and  near  th.e  N.  E.  extremity,  one  of  consid- 
erable extent,  with  a  deep  chasm  in  its  eastern  side.  None  of  these 
w^ere  in  action,  nor  indeed  did  they  appear  to  have  been  fo  for  a 
very  long  time,  as,  with  the  exception  of  the  one  above-mentionod, 
they  were  covered  with  verdure.  The  N.  E.  promontory,  already 
i.jticed  as  having  two  small  hillocks 


ipon 


.;omposed  of  hor- 


IZC 


are 


.-»^, 


\Noi, 

ig  it  to  the  (lis. 
miles  unaccount. 
;r  Island,  vvlijcli 
lanner  in  which 

0  me  to  exceed 
3  causes. 

Is  of  I  elix  and 
ler  to  reconcile 
afer,  he  has  iin- 
ithout  consider- 
r  Davis  to  have 
)se  islands,  (es- 
ie,)  but  on  the 
uit  which  would 

and  that  Davis 
scoveiy,  whicli 
'he  alteration  in 

it  has  notl  ■  11! 
)f  island?!  oc.'Vi 
rred,  but  in  tlip 
intage  by  inter- 

1  support  their 

ovember,  East- 
?8°  W.  (Mag.) 
tly  very  nearly 
island,  which, 
d  pi  act,,  could 
however  was 
luch  a  spot  a? 
over  the  place 
'""e  of  helm 
v^apes ;    tlic 
•     To  avoid 
light,  and  at 
le  northern 
been  but  par- 
tia  Perouso. 
raters   rising 
no  of  consid- 
None  of  these 
Jeen  ro  lor  a 
e-mentioiird, 
tory,  already 
)osed  of  lior- 


AiVn  BEERrNfi  S   STIIAIT. 


;n 


vS 


^8-2o.J 

iaontal  strata,  apparently  of  volcanic  origin  ;    and  near  it,  some 

jpatchos  of  earth,  sloping  d  twn  to  the  cliff,  were  supposed  to  con- 

'   ^t  of  red  scoria;.      The  hills,  and  exposed   parts   of  the  earth, 

^■ere  overgrown  with  &];ort  burnt-up  grass,  which  gave  the  surface 

Tf  monotonous  and  arid  aspect ;  but  the  valleys  were  well  cultivated, 

and  showed  that  the  island  required  only  a  due  })roportion  of  nioist- 

iB-e  and  labour  to  produce  a  luxuriant  vegetation. 

Passing  along  the  northern  shore,  we  saw  seveial  of  those  ex- 
tensive habitations  whicii  M.  La  Perouso  has  described,  situated  in 
•  valley  surrounded  by  groves  of  banana  trees  and  other  patches 
'  erf  cultivation.      The  larger  huts  were  placed  near  the  wood,  and 
Np  smaller  ones  close  together  outside  them.      Nearer  the  sea- 
afiore,  which  here  forms  a  bay,  was  a  moral,  surmounted  by  four 
unages  standing  upon  a  low  platform,  precisely  answering  the  de- 
scription and  representation  of  one  given  by  Perouse ;   and  also  an 
jflpmense  jnclosure  of  stones,  and   several  large  piles,  which,  as 
^.#ell  as  the  image's,  were  capped  with  something  white,  a  circum- 
■^Sance  noticed  both  l)y  Captain  Cook  and  M.  Perouse. 

The  greatest  attention  appeared  to  be  paid  to  the  cultivatioii  of 
ii'-^e  soil.  Such  places  as  were  not  iimnediately  exposed  to  the 
T  sfcorchlng  rays  of  the  sun  were  hid  out  in  oblong  strips,  taking  the 
direction  of  the  ravines ;  and  furrows  were  ploughed  at  right  an- 
,es  to  them,  for  the  purpose  of  intercepting  the  streams  of  water 
their  descent.  Near  the  middle  of  the  small  bay  just  mentioned, 
ire  was  an  exlui!.;uished  crater,  the  side  of  which,  fronting  the 
sea,  had  fallen  in.  T'le  natives,  availing  themselves  of  this  nat- 
ural r'?servoir  for  moisture,  in  which  other  parts  of  the  island  are 
so  deficient,  had  cultivated  the  soil  in  its  centre,  and  reared  a  grove 
ef  banana-trees,  which,  as  we  passed,  had  a  very  pleasing  elFect. 
The  natives  lighted  fires,  and  loUowed  the  ship  along  the  coast, 
dieir  numbers  increasing  at  every  step.  Some  had  white  cloth 
thrown  loosely  over  their  siioulders,  but  by  An-  the  greater  number 
were  naked,  with  the  exception  of  the  maro. 

When  the  ship  had  arrived  off  the  N.  VV.  point  of  the  island, 
she  was  hov  -to  for  the  purpose  of  taking  observations ;  and  a 
boat  was  lowered  to  examine  the  bays,  and  obtain  soundings  near 
the  shore.  Immediately  she  put  off,  ti  .•  natives  collected  about 
the  place  where  they  supposed  she  won'd  land.  The  sea  broke 
heavily  upon  the  rocks,  and  some  of  t' cm  apprehending  the  boat 
would  l)'i  damaged,  waved  their  cloaks  to  caution  her  against  mak- 
ing the  attempt  to  land  :  while  others,  eager  to  reach  her,  plunged 
into  the  soa,  and  so  surrounded  her  that  she  was  obliged  to  put 
,  tout  to  11'  rid  of  thorn,  'i'lioy  all  showed  a  friendly  disposition, 
.^.nnil  we  begun  to  hope  that  ihey   had   Ibrgoltcn   the  unpardonabh^ 


r* 


•«!' 

<     ■:■ 

If 

•         1 

.'  "^ 

''i 

<  r 


38 


VOYAOE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Ai 


or. 


conduct  of  the  American  master,  who  carried  several  of  the  island- 
ers away  by  force  to  colonize  Masafuera. 

Immediately  the  noon  observation  was  obtained,  we  ran  aloiii; 
the  western  side  of  the  island,  towards  the  bay  in  which  Cook  and 
Perouse  had  both  anchored.  The  natives,  as  before,  followed 
along  the  coast,  and  lighted  fires  in  different  directions,  the  largest 
of  which  was  opposite  the  landing  place.  With  a  view  to  ascer- 
tain the  feeling  of  the  inhabitants,  and,  if  possible,  to  establish  an 
amicable  intercoiu-se  with  them,  1  desired  Lieutenant  Peard  to 
proceed  with  two  boats  to  the  shore,  and  by  presents  and  kindnes- 
to  endeavour  to  conciliate  the  people  and  to  bring  off  what  fniii 
and  vegetables  he  could.  Lieutenant  Wainwright  was  directed  to 
accompany  him ;  and  though  I  did  not  apprehend  any  hostility, 
yet,  as  a  precautionary  measure,  I  armed  the  boats,  and  placed  two 
marines  in  each.  Their  strength  was  further  increased  by  sev  i;d 
of  the  officers,  and  the  naturalist.  Thus  equipped,  they  rowed 
for  the  landing-place  in  Cook's  Bay,  while  the  ship  remained  at  a 
short  distance.  The  islanders  were  collected  in  great  numbers, 
and  were  seen  running  to  and  fro,  exhibiting  s/mptoms  of  expect- 
ation and  delight.  Some  few,  however,  were  observed  throwins;, 
large  stones  at  a  mark  behind  a  bank  erected  near  the  beach. 

As  the  boats  approached,  the  anxiety  of  the  natives  was  mani- 
fested by  shouts,  which  overpowered  the  voices  of  the  officers: 
and  our  boats,  before  they  gained  the  beach,  were  surrounded  by 
hundreds  of  swimmers,  clinging  to  the  gunwale,  the  stern,  and  the 
rudder,  until  they  became  unmanageable.  They  all  appeared  to 
be  friendly  disposed,  and  none  came  empty-handed.  Bananas, 
yams,  potatoes,  sugar-cane,  nets,  idols,  &lc.  weiu  offered  for  sale. 
and  some  were  even  thrown  into  the  boat,  leaving  their  visiters  to 
inake  what  return  they  chose.  Among  the  swinmiers  there  were 
a  great  many  females,  who  were  equally  or  more  anxious  to  get 
into  the  boats  than  the  men,  and  made  use  of  every  persuasion  to 
induce  the  crew  to  admit  them.  But  to  have  acceeded  to  their 
entreaties  would  have  encumbered  the  party-  and  subjected  them 
to  depredations.  As  it  was,  the  boats  were  so  weighed  down  by 
persons  clinging  to  them,  that  for  personal  safety  the  crew  were 
compelled  to  have  recourse  to  sticks  to  keej)  them  oft',  at  whieli 
none  of  the  natives  took  offence,  but  regained  their  position  tlie 
instant  the  attention  of  the  persons  in  the  boat  was  called  to  some 
other  object.  Just  within  the  gunwale  there  were  many  sniiill 
things  which  were  liigldy  prized  by  the  swinmiers ;  and  the  boat- 
being  brought  low  in  the  water  by  the  crowd  hanging  to  thcin, 
many  of  these  articles  were  stolen,  notwithstanding  the  most  vi;;i- 
lant  attention  on  the  part  of  the  crew,  who   had  no  means  ot  re- 


*• 


col 
th| 
acfl 

grc 
Crc 


1*  f  i 


[No,, 

al  of  the  island- 

,  we  ran  alon^; 

fh'ich  Cook  and 

elbre,  followed 

ans,  the  largest 

view  to  ascer- 

to  establish  an 

jnant  Peard  to 

ts  and  kindness 

off  what  fruit 

was  directed  lo 

1  any  hostility. 

and  placed  two 

sed  by  sev  lal 

d,   they   rowed 

remained  at  a 

great  numbers. 

oms  of  expect- 

rved  throwiiif;. 

le  beach. 

ves  was  mani- 

f  the  officers: 

surrounded  by 

stern,  and  the 

appeared  to 

Bananas, 

Fered  for  sale, 

r  visiters  to 

there  were 

nxious  to  gei 

lersuasion  to 

ded  to  their 

)jocted  thein 

led  down  by 

le  crew  were 

olF,  at  whicli 

position  tliu 

ailed  to  some 

many  small 

md  the  boat^ 

ng  to   tlicm, 

ic  most   vid- 

neans  of  le- 


l|825.] 


AND  BEERINO  fi   STUAIT. 


:J9 


■4>' 


covering  them,  the  marauders  darting  into  the  wac',  and  diving 
the  moment  they  committed  a  theft.  Tiic  women  were  no  less 
active  in  these  piracies  than  the  men ;  for  if  they  were  not  the  ac- 
ijnal  plunderers,  they  procured  the  opportunity  for  others,  by  en- 
grossing the  attention  of  the  seamen  by  their  caresses  and  ludi- 
crous gestures. 

In  proceeding  to  the  landing-place,  the  boats  had  to  pass  a  small 
Bolated  rock  which  rose  several  feet  above  the  water.  As  many 
'females  as  could  possibly  find  room  crowded  upon  this  eminence, 
pressing  together  so  closely,  that  the  rock  appeared  to  be  a  mass  of 
Uving  beings.  Of  these  Nereids  three  or  four  would  shoot  off  at 
afctime  into  the  water,  and  swim  with  the  expertness  of  fish  to  the 
boats  to  try  their  influence  on  their  visiters.  One  of  them,  a  very 
young  girl,  and  less  accustomed  to  the  water  than  her  companions, 
Wfts  taken  upon  the  shoulders  of  an  elderly  man,  conjectured  to  be 
her  father,  and  was,  by  him,  reconmiended  to  the  attention  of  one 
^<tf  the  officers,  who,  in  compassion,  allowed  her  a  seat  in  his  boat. 
She  was  young,  and  exceedingly  pretty ;  her  features  were  small 
tnd  well  maue,  her  eyes  dark,  and  her  hair  black,  long,  and  flow^- 
jng ;  her  colour,  deep  brunette.  She  was  tattooed  in  arches  upon 
the  forehead,  and,  like  the  greater  part  of  her  countrywomen,  from 
tjhe  waist  downward  to  the  knee  in  narrow  compact  blue  lines, 
#hich  at  a  short  distance  had  the  appearance  of  breeches.  Her 
only  covering  was  a  small  triangular  maro,  made  of  grass  and 
lushes  ;  but  this  diminutive  screen  not  agreeing  with  her  ideas  of 
propriety  in  the  novel  situation  in  which  she  found  herself,  she 
remedied  the  defect  by  unceremoniously  api)ropriating  to  that  use 
a  part  of  one  of  the  officer's  ajiparel  id  then  comtnenced  a  song 
BOt  altogether  inharmonious.  Far  fio.n  '  '  In;r  jealous  of  her  shu- 
ition,  she  aided  all  her  countrywomen  who  aspired  to  the  same 
seat  of  honour  with  herself,  by  dragging  thein  out  of  the  water  by 
the  hair  of  the  head ;  but  unkind  as  it  might  appear  "i  interfere  to 
prevent  this,  it  was  necessary  to  do  so,  or  the  boats  would  have 
been  filled  and  unmanageable. 

As  our  party  passed,  the  assemblage  of   females  on  the  rock 
commenced  a  song,  similar  to  that  chaunted  by  the  lady  in  tli    boat ; 
and  accompanied  it  by  extending  their  arms  over  their  heads,  beat- 
ing their  breasts,   and   j)erforming   a   variety  of   gestures,   which 
showed  that  our  visit  was  acceptable,  at   least  to  that  i)ai't  of  the 
connnunity.     When  the  boats  were  within  wading  distance  cf       • 
shore,  they  were  closely  encompassed  by  the  natives ;    each  bimg- 
.  ing  something  in  his  hand,  however  small,  and  almost  every  one 
'■*fhnportuning  for  an  equivalent  in  return.      All  those  in  the  water 
I  were  naked,  and  only  here  and  there,  on  the  shore,  a  thin  cloak  of 
^native  cloth  was  to  be  seen.     Some  had  their  Atces  pauited  black, 


i 


i 


}IM 


\Jt 


(«i' 


t 


40 


VOYAr.F.  TO  THF.  PACIFIC 


\Noi: 


some  red ;  others  black  and  white,  or  red  and  white,  in  the  hul|. 
crous  manner  practised  by  our  clown  ;  and  two  demon-hke  nion- 
.'iters  were  painted  entirely  black.  It  is  not  easy  to  imagine  the 
picture  that  was  presented  by  this  motley  crowd,  unrestrained  by 
any  authority  or  consideration  for  their  visiters,  all  hallooing  to  the 
extent  of  their  lungs,  and  pressing  uj)on  the  boats  with  all  sorts  of 
grimaces  and  gestures. 

It  was  found  impossible  to  land  where  it  was  at  first  intended: 
the  boats,  theref-^re,  rowed  a  little  to  the  northward,  followed  liy 
the  multitude,  and  there  effected  a  disembarkation,  aided  by  sohk 
of  the  natives,  who  helped  the  party  over  the  rocks  with  one  hand. 
while  they  picked  their  pockets  with  the  other.  It  was  no  easy 
matter  to  penetrate  the  dense  multitude,  and  much  less  practi^-able 
to  pursue  a  thief  through  the  labyrinth  of  figures  that  thronged 
around.  The  articles  stolen  were  consequently  as  irretrievably 
lost  here,  as  tluy  were  before  in  the  hands  of  the  divers.  It  is 
extremely  difficult  on  such  occasions,  to  decide  which  is  the  best 
line  of  conduct  to  adopt :  whether  to  follow  Captain  Cook's  ritrid 
maxim  of  never  permitting  a  theft  when  clearly  ascertamed  to  i;o 
unpunished  ;  or  to  act  as  Perouse  did  with  the  inhabitants  of  Easter 
Island,  and  suffer  every  thing  to  be  stolen  without  resistance  or  re- 
monstrance. Perhaps  the  happy  medium  of  shutting  the  eyes  to 
those  it  is  not  necessary  to  observe,  an  punishing  severely  such  as 
it  is  imperative  to  notice,  will  prove  the  wisest  policy. 

Among  the  foremost  of  the  crowd  were  two  men,  crowned  with 
pelicans'  feathers,  who,  if  they  were  not  chiefs,  assumed  an  author- 
ity as  such,  and  with  the  two  demons  above-mentioned  attempted 
to  clear  the  way  by  striking  at  the  feet  of  the  mob ;  careful,  how- 
ever, so  to  direct  their  blows,  that  they  should  not  take  effect. 
Without  their  assistance,  it  would  Inve  been  almost  hnpossible  to 
land :  the  mob  cared  very  little  for  threats :  a  musket  presented 
at  them,  had  no  efiect  beyond  the  moment  it  was  levelled,  and  was 
less  efficacious  than  some  water  thrown  upon  the  bystanders  by 
those  jiersons  who  wished  to  forward  the  views  of  our  party. 

The  gentleman  who  disembarked  first,  and  from  that  circum- 
stance probaby  was  considered  a  person  of  distinction,  was  escorted 
to  the  top  of  the  bank  and  seated  upon  a  large  block  of  lava, 
which  was  the  prescribed  limit  to  the  party's  advk;nce.  An  cii- 
d(;avour  was  then  made  to  form  a  ring  about  him ;  but  it  was  v('r\ 
difficult,  on  account  of  the  Islanders  crowding  to  the  place  all  in 
expectation  of  receiving  something.  The  applicants  were  impa- 
tient, noisy,  and  urgent:  they  presented  their  bags,  which  they  had 
carefully  em|)ticd  for  the  purpose,  and  signified  thc'ir  desire  thai 
they  should  be  filled :  lh(>y  practised  every  artifice,  and  stole  what 
they  could  in  the  most  can  less  and  open  mannor:  soujc  wont  eviii 


tii 

(h 

sh 
lh< 
po 
tfai 
the 


[Not ' 

liite,  in  the  liuli- 
3mon-like  inon- 
to  imagine  ilio 
unrestrained  l)v 
hallooing  to  tliii 
with  all  sorts  of 

first  intended: 
ird,  followed  l)v 

aided  by  souk 
5  with  one  hand, 

It  was  no  easy 
less  practiijable 
■  that  thronged 
as  irretrievably 
(  divers.  It  is 
ich  is  the  best 
in  Cook's  rigid 
^ertamod  to  i;n 
)itants  of  Eastci 
esistance  or  re- 
ting  the  eyes  to 
jverely  such  as 
W. 
,  crowned  wit 


^825.] 


ANO  BEF.niNfi  S   STRAIT. 


41 


ed  an  author- 
ed attempted 
careful,  how- 

ot  take  effect. 
impossible  to 
ict  presented 

t'clledjand  was 
jystanders  by 
party. 

that  circuni- 
was  escorted 
ock  of  lava, , j; 

ire.      An  cii-    | 

L  it  was  very 

plate  all  in 

were  inipa- 

lich  thev  li;i(l 

r  desire  tliat 

nd  stole  wliai 

ne  went  even 


farther,  nrd  accomiwniod  their  demands  l)y  throats.  About  this 
time  one  of  the  natives,  probably  a  chief,  with  a  cloak  and 
head-dress  of  feathers,  was  observed  from  i\w.  ship  hastening  from 
tbe  huts  to  the  landing-place,  attended  by  several  persons  with 
short  clubs.  This  hostile  api)earance,  followed  by  the  blowing  of 
tfic  conch-shell,  a  sound  which  Cook  observes  he  never  knew  to 
Boilend  good,  kept  our  glasses  for  a  while  rivited  to  the  spot.  To 
tJiis  chief  it  is  supposed,  for  it  was  impossible  to  distinguish  amongst 
^e  crowd,  Mr.  Peard  made  a  handsome  present,  with  which  ho 
was  very  v.ell  pleased,  and  no  apprehension  of  hostilities  was  en- 
tertained. It  happened,  however,  that  the  presents  were  expended 
and  this  oflicer  was  returning  to  the  boat  for  a  fresh  snjjply,  when 
the  natives,  probably  mistaking  his  intentions,  became  exceculingl)^ 
clamorous,  and  the  confusion  was  further  increased  by  a  marine 
endeavouring  to  regain  his  cap,  which  had  been  snatched  from  bis 
head.  Tlie  nati\es  took  advantage  of  the  confusion,  and  redoubled 
ijheir  endeavours  to  pilfer,  wbicii  our  ])arty  were  at  last  obliged  to 
jjiepel  by  threats,  and  sometimes  by  force.  At  length  they  became 
SO  audacious  that  there  was  no  longer  any  doubt  of  their  intentions, 
or  that  a  system  of  open  j)lunder  had  conunenced  ;  which,  with 
die  ajjpearance  of  clubs  and  sticks,  and  the  departure  of  the  wo- 
Bjen,  induced  Mr.  Peard,  very  judiciously,  to  order  his  parly  into 
Ae  boats.  This  seemed  to  be  the  signal  ior  an  assaidt :  the  chief 
who  had  received  the  present  threw  a  large  stone,  which  struck 
Mr.  Peard  forcibly  upon  the  back,  and  was  immediately  followed 
by  a  shower  of  missiles  which  darkened  the  air.  IHe  natives  in 
the  water  and  about  the  boats  instantly  withdrew  to  their  comrades, 
who  had  run  behind  a  bank  out  of  the  reach  of  the  muskets,  which 
former  experience  alone  could  have  taught  them  to  fear,  for  none 
had  yet  been  fired  by  us. 

The  stones,  each  of  which  weighed  about  a  pound,  fell  incredi- 
Wy  thick,  and  with  such  precision  that  several  of  the  seamen  were 
Jtnocked  down  under  the  thwarts  of  the  boat,  and  every  person 
pas  more  or  less  wounded,  except  the  female  to  whom  liieulenant 
Wainwright  had  given  protection,  who,  as  if  aware  of  the  skilful- 
Bess  of  her  cou.itrymen,  sat  unconcerned  upon  the  gunwale,  until 
one  of  the  oflicers,  with  more  consideri.tioii  for  her  safety  than  she 
herself  jiossessed,  pushed  her  overboard,  and  she  swam  ashore. 
A  blank  ciirtridge  was  at  first  fired  over  the  heads  of  the  crowd  ; 
but  forbearance,  which  with  ravages  is  generally  mistaken  for  cow- 
ardice or  inability,  only  augmented  their  fury.  The  showers  of 
Stones  were  if  jiossible  increased,  until  the  jiersonal  safety  of  all 
rendered  it  necessary  to  resort  to  severe  measures.  The  chief, 
still  urging  the  islanders  on,  very  deservedly,  and  perha|)s  Ibrlu- 
.^aiely,  fell  a  victim  to  the  first  shot  that  was  fired  in  defence. 

VOL.    1.  () 


P 


42 


VOYAfiE  TO  THE   PACIFIC 


[A 


01' 


Terrified  by  this  example,  the  natives  kept  closer  under  their  bul- 
wark ;  and  thoiii^li  they  continued  to  throw  stones,  and  occasioned 
considerable  difliculty  in  extricating  the  boats,  their  attacks  weii 
not  so  efl'ectual  as  before,  nor  sullicient  to  j)revent  the  enibarkatioi, 
of  the  crew,  all  of  whom  were  got  on  board. 

Several  dangerous  contusions  were  received  in  the  aftair,  but 
fortunately  no  lives  were  lost  on  our  part ;  and  it  was  the  opinion 
of  the  officer  commanding  the  party,  that  the  treacherous  chief  \v;b 
the  only  victim  on  that  of  the  islanders,  tliough  some  of  the  ollicois 
thought  they  observed  another  man  fall.  Considering  the  manner 
in  which  the  party  were  surrounded,  and  the  inmiinent  risk  to 
which  they  were  exposed,  it  is  extraordinary  that  so  few  of  the  ii;i. 
tives  suffered ;  and  the  greatest  credit  is  due  to  the  officers  and 
crews  of  both  boats  for  their  forbearance  on  the  occasion. 

After  this  unfortunate  and  unexpected  termination  to  our  inter- 
view, I  determined  upon  quitting  the  island,  as  nothing  of  import- 
ance was  to  be  gained  by  remaining,  which  could  be  put  in  com|U'- 
tition  with  the  probable  loss  of  lives  that  might  attend  an  attenipi 
at  reconciliation.  The  disappointment  it  occasioned  was  great  to 
us,  who  had  promised  ourselves  much  n'^velty  and  enjoyment: 
but  the  loss  to  the  public  is  trifling,  as  the  island  has  been  vciv 
well  described  by  Roggewein,  Cook,  Perouse,  Kotzebue,  and  oth- 
ers, and  the  people  appeared,  in  all  material  points,  the  same  now 
as  these  authors  have  painted  them.  With  regard  to  supplies, 
nothing  was  to  be  gained  by  staying ;  for  after  Cook  had  traversed 
the  island,  he  came  to  the  conclusion  that  few  places  afford  les? 
convenience  for  shipping.  "  As  every  thing  must  be  raised  by  dim 
of  labour,  it  cannot  be  supposed  the  inhabitants  plant  much  moic 
than  is  sufficient  for  themselves ;  and  as  they  are  few  in  number, 
they  cannot  have  much  to  spare  to  supply  the  vv\nts  of  strangers. " 

The  population  of  Easter  island  has  been  variously  stated: 
Roggewein  declares  several  thousands  surrounded  the  boats  :  Cook 
reckoned  it  six  or  seven  hundred  ;  Mr.  Forster,  who  was  with  liiin. 
at  nine  hundred  ;  M.  la  Perouse,  at  two  thousand  :  my  officers  es- 
timated it  at  about  fifteen  hundred.  If  a  mean  of  these  be  taken, 
it  will  leave  12G0,  which  is,  perhaps  near  the  truth ;  for  it  may  In 
presumed,  tliat  in  an  island  of  such  limited  extent,  and  which  doi- 
not  increase  its  productions  or  personal  comforts,  and  where  sexuai 
intercourse  is  unrestrained,  the  |)opulation  will  remain  much  tlii 
same. 

One  of  the  authors  of  Roggewein's  Voyage  represents  the  ir 
habitants  of  this  island  as  giants,  which,  if  his  assertion  be  true, 
makes  it  evident  that,  like  the  Patagonians,  they  have  degenerated 
very  rapidly.  Cook  remarks  that  he  did  not  see  a  man  that  would 
measure  6  feet ;    and  our  estimate  of  tiio  average  height  of  tlii 


wc 
tuil 

^  Wnl 
wif 
hcl 

ligl 
is 


{Nov. 

nder  their  bul- 
ind  occasioned 
i  attacks  wcif 
le  embarkation 

the  affair,  but 
.'as  the  opinion 
erous  chief  \v;b 
c  of  tlie  ofliccMs 
ing  the  manner 
iminent  risk  to 
few  of  the  n;i- 
le  officers  and 
asion. 

1  to  our  inter- 
ling  of  import- 
put  in  com  po- 
nd an  attempt 
:d  was  great  to 
id   enjoyment : 
lias  been   vcrv 
ebue,  and  otii- 
the  same  now 
rd  to  supplies, 
i  had  traversed 
ces  afford  les? 
raised  by  dint 
It  much  moiv 
ew  in  number, 
of  strangers." 
■iously   stated: 
e  boats :  Cook 
was  with  him, 
uy  officers  e<- 
icse  be  taken. 
for  it  may  In: 
id  which  iloi- 
where  sexu;ii 
lin  much  ilk 

!sents   the  in- 

rtion  be  true, 

degenerated 

an  that  would 

H'ight   of  tin 


AND  DEERINr,  S  STHAIT. 


43 


18-25.] 

•people  was  5  feet  7  1-2  inches.     They  are  a  handsome  race,  the 
women  in  jjarticular.     The  fine  oval  countenances  and  regular  fea- 
tures of  the  men,  the   smootli,  high-rounded  foreheads,  the  rather 
^   imall  and  somewhat  sunken  d.u'k  eye,  and  the  even  rows  of  ivory- 
.     %hite  teeth,  impressed  us  with  the  similarity  of  tlieir  features  tci  the 
ilieads  brought  from  New  Zealand.      The  colour  of  their  skin  is 
'IBghter  than  that  of  the  Malays.     The  general  contour  of  the  body 
^B  good :    the  limbs  are  not  remarkable  for  muscularity,  but  formed 
jflttore  for  activity  than  strength.      The  hair  is  jet  black,  and  worn 
iboderately  short.      One  man  of  about  fifty  years  of  age,  the  only 
(KKception  that  was  noticed,  Iwl  his  hair  over  the  forehead  of  a 
reddish-ash  gray.      The  beards   of   such  as  had  any  were  black  ; 
but  many  had  none,  or  only  a  few  hairs  on  the  chin.     None  of  the 
men  had  whiskers,  which  seemed  to  be  rather  a  subject  of  regret 
with  them,  and  they  appeared  envious  of  such  of  our  party  as  had 
tliem,  who  were  obliged  to  submit  to  the  ordeal  of  having  lliein 
Stroked  and  twisted  about  for  the  admiration  and   amusement  of 
their  new  acquaintances.     Both  sexes  still  retain  the  hideous  prac- 
tice of  peforating  the  lobes  of  the  ears,  though   the  custom   is  not 
$o  general  with  the  men  as  formerly.      The  ai)erture,  when  distend- 
ed, w  Inch  is  done  by  a  leaf  rolled  up  and  forced  through  it,  is  about 
'in  inch  and  a  quarter  in  diameter.     The  lobe,  deprived  of  its  ear- 
'^g,  hangs  dangling  against  the  neck,  and  has  a  very  disagreeable 
ippearance,  jjarticularly  when  wet.     It  is  sometimes  so  long  as  to 
be  greatly  in  the  wry  ;  to  obviate  which,  they  pass  the  lobe  ov(;r 
die  upper  part  of  the  ear,  or  more  rarely,  fasten  one  lobe  to  the 
<l*her,  at  the  back  of  the  head.      The  lips,  when  closed,  form 
nearly  a  line,  showing  very  little  of  the  fleshy  part,  and  giving  a 
character  of  resolution  to  the  countenance.      The  nose  is   aquiline 
Und  well-proportioned  ;    the  eyes  small  and  dark  brown  or  black  ; 
tlie  chin  small  and  r-lher  prominent ;    and  the  tongue  dispropor- 
;tionably  large,  and,  on  its  upper  surface,  of  a  diseased  white  ap- 
pearance. 

Tattooing  or  puncturing  the  skin  is  here  practised  to  a  greater 
extent  than  formerly,  especially  by  the  females,  who  have  stained 
their  skin  in  imitation  of  blue  breeches;  copied,  no  doubt,  from 
some  of  tlieir  visiters,  who  frequently  tuck  up  tlieu  a-owsers  to  the 
knee  in  passing  through  the  water.  The  deception,  which,  at  a 
short  distance,  completely  deceives  the  eye,  is  produced  by  a  suc- 
cession of  small  blue  lines,  beginning  at  the  waist  and  extending 
.  dow  nward  to  the  knee.  Besiiles  this,  some  of  them  tattoo  their 
,'  foreheads  in  arched  linos,  as  well  as  the  edges  of  their  ears  and  the 
,^  fleshy  part  of  their  lips.  The  males  tattoo  themselves  incurved 
lines  of  a  dark  Berlin  blue  colour  ujion  the  upper  part  of  the 
throat,  beginning  at  the  ear,  and  sloping  round  below  the  under 


m 


-A: 


I 


!tl!i| 


44 


VOVAOK  Tl»  TllK   I'ACIFIC 


j;i\v.  Tlic  fare  is  soniutimcs  nearly  covoroil  with  lines  siniilai-  i, 
tliosc  on  the  llnoat,  or  willi  an  uninterrupted  eolouriuf!;,  exeeptin. 
two  broad  stripes  on  eaeli  side,  at  right  angles  to  each  other.  Mom 
of  their  lips  were  also  stained.  Others  had  difterent  parts  of  tlitir 
bodies  variously  marked,  but  in  the  greater  number  it  was  confinci: 
to  a  small  space.  All  the  lines  were  drawn  with  much  taste,  uiki 
carried  in  the  direction  of  the  muscle  in  a  manner  very  similar  ic 
the  New  Zealanders.  These  ])eople  have  had  so  little  connniini. 
cation  with  Europeans,  or  have  benefitted  so  little  by  it,  that  \\t 
did  not  perceive  any  European  cloth  among  them  ;  and  the  doii: 
mulberry-treei  which  grows  upon  their  island,  produces  so  small  a 
supply,  that  part  of  the  inhabitants  necessarily  go  naked  :  the  larger 
portion  however  wear  a  maro,  made  either  of  fine  Indian  cloth  oi 
reddish  colour,  of  a  wild  kind  of  parsley,  or  of  a  species  of  soa- 
weed. 

Their  weapons  are  short  clubs  of  a  flattened  oval  form,  taperiiv,- 
toward  the  handle,  and  a  little  curved.  The  straw  hats  nientioiuMJ 
both  by  Cook  and  Perouse  appeared  to  be  no  longer  used.  Oik 
man  only  had  his  head  covered  ;  and  that  with  a  tattered  felt  liui 
whit^li  he  must  have  obtained  from  some  former  visiters.  A  ram- 
rod, which  had  probably  been  procured  in  the  same  way,  was  also 
seen  among  them.  We  noticed  three  boats  hauled  up  on  the  sIkhc 
to  the  northward  of  the  landing-place,  resend)ling  the  drawing  in 
Perouse's  Voyage,  but  the  natives  did  not  attempt  to  launch  them. 

Roggewein  and  Perouse  were  of  opinion  that  these  people  lived 
together  in  communities,  a  whole  village  inhabiting  one  extensive 
hut,  and  that  pro})erty  was  in  common.  The  former  idea  was  su;:- 
gested  by  the  very  capacious  dwellings  which  are  scattered  ovii 
the  island ;  and  the  conjecture  may  be  correct,  though  it  is  certain 
that  there  are  a  far  greater  number  of  small  huts,  sufficient  to  c(m- 
tain  one  family  only ;  but  with  regard  to  the  supposition  that  prop- 
erty is  connnon,  it  seems  very  doid)lful  whether  the  land  would  In 
so  carefidly  divided  by  rows  of  stones  if  that  were  the  case.  Soim 
circumstances  which  occurred  at  the  landing-place,  during  our  visii. 
certaiidy  favoured  the  presumption  of  its  being  so.  One  of  the 
natives  offered  an  image  fur  sale,  and  being  disappointed  in  tin 
price  he  expected,  refused  to  part  with  it ;  but  a  by-stander,  Ics? 
scrupulous,  snatched  it  from  him  without  ceremony,  and  parteil 
with  it  for  the  original  offer  without  a  word  of  remonstrance  lioin 
his  countryman.  Others  again  threw  their  property  into  the  boat>. 
vvitliout  demanding  any  iiumediate  return  ;  taking  for  granted,  ii 
may  be  presumed,  that  they  would  reap  their  reward  when  a  dis- 
tribution of  the  property  obtained  should  take  place.  IJut  t In- 
state of  society  is  so  unnatural  that,  however  ai)|)earances  iiki\ 
sanction  the  belief,  1  am  disposed  to  doubt   it.      One  strong  faci  n 


m 


ani 
qui 

vis^ 
iml 


toi 
or 


[\o 


I'  ■•* 


18->5.1 


AND   UKKIllNfJ  S   STHAIT. 


45 


h  lines  siinilnr  i, 
ouriiifr,  excoptin. 
jacli  otlier.  iM„,i 
L'nt  parts  of  Uiej, 
r  it  was  confintc 
much  taste,  and 

very  similar  to 
3  little  conuiuini. 
3  by  it,  that  w^ 
;  and  the  clotli 
luces  so  small  a 
aked  ;  the  largw 
!  Imliaii  cloth  of 

species  of  sea- 

il  form,  tai)eriii'' 
hats  mentioiud 
;er  used.      Out 
uttered  felt  liai, 
isiters.     A  ram- 
'  way,  was  ixk, 
up  on  the  slioic 
the  drawing  in 
to  launch  tliein, 
jse  people  lived 
one  extensive 
;r  idea  was  su£- 
scattered  o\c'i 
1  it  is  certain 
fficient  to  con- 
tion  that  prop- 
luul  would  l)( 
case.      Soini' 
uring  our  visji, 
One  of  ihu 
)ointed  in  tin 
•stander,  !('<> 
y,  and  jjarted 
nstrance  Iroin 
ito  the  I)oal>. 
)r  granted,  ii 
when   a  (li>- 
'.      Hut  fliN 
Jirances  iii;iv 
'jtrou'i;  fact  n;     , 


„,*■ 
■% 


'  fiipport  of  my  opinion  was  the  unceremonious  manner  in  which  the 
apparent  pro|)rietor  of  a  piece  of  j^round  planted  with  potatoes 
drove  away  the  mob,  who,  with  very  little  consideration  lor  tlie 
owner,  were  taking  tlie  crop  out  of  the  earth  to  barter  with  our 
party. 

'';  The  island,  tliough  situated  nearer  the  Continent  of  America  than 
iny  otlier  of  the  archi|)elat;;o  to  wliich  il  helongs,  has  been  less  fre- 
■•uently  visited  ;  and  unfortunately  for  its  inliabitants,  some  of  those 
?isits  liave  rather  tended  to  retard  than  to  advance  its  prosperity,  or 
improve  its  ujoral  condition ;  and  they  afford  a  striking  example  of 
an  extensive  intercourse  with  mankind,  before  a  limited  comnumity 
can  emerge  from  barbarism  to  a  state  of  civilization.  One  consola- 
tion for  this  privation  is  their  exemption  from  those  complaints  by 
which  some  of  the  ill-lated  natives  of  these  s^as  have  so  dreadfully 
Butfered. 

The  gigantic  busts  which  excited  the  surprise  of  the  first  visiters 
Id  the  island,  have  suffered  so  much  either  from  the  effects  of  time, 
or  maltreatment  of  the  natives,  that  the  existence  of  any  of  them  at 
present  is  questionable.     At  first  they  were  dispersed  generally  over 
tjie  whole  island:  when  Cook  visited  it,  there  were  but  two  on  the 
Western  side  near  the  landing-place :  Kotzebue  found  only  a  square 
pedestal  in  the  same  ])lace :  and  now  a  few  heaps  of  rubbish  only,  oc- 
cupy a  spot  where  it  is  doubtful  whether  one  of  them  was  erected  or 
BOt.     When  it  is  considered  how  great  must  have  been  the  labour 
bestowed  upon  these  images  before  they  were  hewn  from  the  quar- 
ries with  the  rude  stone  implements  of  the  Indians,  and  before  such 
huge  masses  of  rock  could  be  transported  to,  and  erected  on,  so 
many  ])arts  of  the  island,  it  is  nearly  jjositive  that  they  were  actua- 
ted by  religious  motives  in  their  construction;  and  yet,  if  it  were  so, 
y/rhy  were  these  objects  of  adoration  suffered  to  go  to  decay  by  suc- 
ceeding generations  ?     Is  it  that  the  religious  forms  of  the  islanders 
have  cliangcd,  or  that  the  aborigines  have  died  off,  and  been  suc- 
i^eeded  by  a  new  race? — Pitcairn  Island  affords  a  curious  example 
of  a  race  of  men  settling  upon  an  island,  erecting  stone  images  ujion 
its  heights,  and  either  becoming  extinct  or  having  abandoned  it;  and 
some  circumstances  connected  with  Easter  Island  occur  independent 
of  that  above  alluded  to,  in  favour  of  the  presimiption  that  the  same 
thing  may  also  have  taken  place  there.      The  most  remarkable  of 
these  facts  is,  (hat  the  present  generation  arc  so  iif^arly  allied  in  lan- 
guage and  customs  to  many  islands  in  the  South  Sea,  as  to  leave 
no  doubt  of  their  Iiiving  migrated  from  some  of  them, — and  yet  in 
none  of  these  places  are  there  images  of  such  extraordinary  flimen- 
sions,  or  indeed  in  any  way  resembling  them.     The  Easter  Islanders 
have,  besides,  small  wooden  deities  similar  to  those  used  by  the  in- 
liabitants ol"  the  other  islands  just  mentioned. 


I 


S' 


11  i 

1 1 

-i 

'< 

•  f 


hi 


J I 


Jl!f^    I 


r  \ 


\ 


Iff?!  ^s< 


J  f 


># 


*♦ 


46 


VOYACr.  TO  TIIF.   PACIKIf 


[.V. 


or 


That  llicrc  had  hpcii  icroiit  miirnitioiis  froiii  some  of  the  islmul 
lo  lh(.'  westward,  ahoiit  U()i!;,j;(!woiirs  time,  may  ho  inferred  from  ili, 
natives  havini:;  rcc();j;Mis('(l  llio  animals  on  hoard  iiis  ship,  and  I'lon 
their  having  iiogs  tattooed  upon  tlieir  arms  and  hroasts;  wheii'ii- 
ihero  was  not  a  qna(h'uped  npon  the  ishnid  at  tlio  time,  nor  has  am 
one  except  the  rat  ever  heen  seen  tiiere.  Another  curious  [m- 
connected  with  this  ishmd  is,  tiiat  wiien  it  was  (Irst  discovered  n 
al)ounded  in  woods  and  forests,  and  i)ahn  branches  were  presented 
as  iMuhh-ms  of  |)eare ;  hut  fifty  years  afterwards,  when  visited  li\ 
Captain  Co()i<,  there  were  no  traces  of  tiiem  h-ft.  The  revohitidn 
that  has  taken  phice  in  fia  Dominica,  one  of  tlie  I\lar(|uesa  Ishuuk 
atlords  another  instance  of  this  kind:  when  first  visited  by  iVlcndaiKi, 
in  1595,  it  exhibited  an  enclianting  aspect:  ''vast  plains  displayni 
a  smiling  verdure,  and  divided  hills,  crowned  with  tufted  woods,' 
See:  l»ut  in  1771  it  was  found  by  Captain  Cook  to  have  so  com- 
pletely altered  its  features,  that  Marchand  ascribes  the  change  id 
one  of  those  great  "■convulsions  of  natiu'e,  which  totally  disfigiin 
every  part  of  the  surface  of  the  globe,  over  which  its  ravages  extend.' 
Easier  Island  is  studded  with  volcanos,  and  an  eruption  may  have 
driven  the  natives  into  the  sea,  or  have  so  torn  up  the  soil  and  voj;- 
elation,  that  they  cotdd  no  longer  subsist  upon  it. 

I  cannot  say  a  w'ord  on  the  success  that  attended  the  humane  tl- 
forts  of  the  much-lamented  Perouso,  who  planted  many  useful  fniii 
trees  and  seeds  upon  the  island  ;  but  there  is  every  reason  to  lie- 
lieve  they  have  perished,  or  shared  the  fate  of  the  vines  at  Otaheito, 
as  they  brought  us  no  fruits  or  roots  beyond  what  he  found  thereon 
his  arrival.  Periiaps  a  tuft  of  trees  in  a  sheltered  spot  at  the  back 
of  Cook's  Bay,  which  had  the  appearance  of  orange-trees,  are  the 
offspring  of  his  benevolent  care  and  attention.  Cook  had  no  op- 
portunity of  benefiting  the  islanders  in  this  way;  but  he  planted  in 
them  a  warm  and  friendly  feeling  towards  strangers,  and  his  usual 
rectitude  and  generous  treatment  taught  them  a  lesson  of  which  1\'- 
rouse  felt  the  good  eilects,  and  which  possibly  might  have  existoil 
until  now,  but  for  the  interference  of  a  few  unprincipled  masters  of 
vessels,  w  ho  have  unfortunately  found  their  way  to  the  island  ;  ami 
I  fear  these  communications  are  more  frequent  than  is  generall\ 
supposed. 

The  island  is  2000  miles  from  the  coast  of  Chili,  and  1500  from 
the  nearest  inhabited  islands,  Pitcairn  Island  cxce))ted,  which  lin> 
been  peopled  by  Europeans.  A  curious  inquiry  therefore  suggosb 
itself:  in  what  manner  has  so  small  a  place,  and  so  distantly  situat- 
ed from  any  other,  received  its  population  ?  particularly  as  even 
thing  favours  the  probability  of  its  inhabitants  having  migmtcd  from 
the  westward,  in  opposition  to  the  prevalent  wind  and  curr«nt. 
Captain  Cook  obtained  considerable  knowledge  upon  this  subject  ai 


Jik- 


of  tlic  isliiiul- 
iforred  from  tin 
ship,  and  lion; 
Leasts;  wiiercii- 
no,  nor  lias  am 
or  curious  fnr 
t  discovorcd  i; 
vcre  presented 
lien  visited  In 
Die  revoliitioi] 
rijuesa  IslaiwN, 
'd  1)}-  Mendaiiii 
laius  dispiiiyni 
:uftcd  \V()()(ls,' 

liave  so  coil). 
the  chanj;;e  id 
:)tally  disti^un 
vages  extend." 
:ion  may  lmv( 
e  soil  aiul  voi;- 

he  humane  ci- 

iny  useful  fruii 

reason  to  lie- 

es  at  Otaheito, 

found  thereon 

)t  at  the  back 

trees,  are  the 

ik  had  no  o|i- 

le  phmled  in 

nd  Ids  usiiiil 

of  which  IV 

have   existod 

d  masters  of 

[3  island  ;  ami 

is  genera!!} 

\i\  1500  from 
which  li;i- 
Ifore  suggest- 
tantly  sitiiai- 

ly  as  oven 
ligrated  from 

nd  currunt. 

is  subject  at 


18^25.) 


AND  BEKIilNO  S  STRAtT. 


support 


Wateo  ;  and  I  shall  hercaftt'r  be  able  in  otfer  something  in 
^flf  the  theory  entertained  by  tiiaf  celebrated  na\igat()r. 
'  C'oolv  and  Perouse  dilfc'r  in  a  \ory  trilling  degree  from  eacli  ot!i- 

<•  W,  and  also  from  us  in  the  gcographieal  position  of  faster  Ishmd. 
The  longitude  by  Cook  is  109°  46'  5iO'  VV.,  and  deducting  IS'  :J0  ', 
in  conse()uence  of  certain  corrections  made  at  Fetegu  Island, 
leaves  IOl>^  '27  50"VV.  That  by  Ferouse,  allowing  the  longitiule 
of  Conception  to  be  7i2°  5()' MO'VV.,  is  \{)\)°  :il  JO'VV.  ;  and  our 
own  is  I0!)°-21'  51"W.  The  island  is  of  a  trianguhu- shape  :  its 
length  is  exactly  nine  miles  from  N.  VV,  to  S.  E.,  nine  and  thnie 
quarters  from  VV.  N.  W.  to  E.  S.  E.,  and  thirteen  from  N.  E.  to 
9.  W.  The  highest  part  of  it  isl'200  feet,  and  in  clear  weather  it 
may  be  seen  at  sixteen  or  eighteen  leagues  distance.  The  geo- 
graphical description  by  M.  Bernizet,  who  was  engineer  in  the  As- 
trolabe, is  exact:  the  views  of  the  land  are  a  little  caricatured,  but 
the  angular  measuriucnts  are  perfectly  correct.  Further  remarks 
OD  the  coast  and  anchorage  will  be  found  in  the  Nauctical  Memoir. 

We  (|uitted  Easter  Island  with  a  fresh  N.  E.  wind,  and  bore 
away  for  the  next  island  placed  upon  the  chart.  On  the  lOtli,  dur- 
iug  a  calm,  some  experiments  were  made  on  the  tenii)erature  of 
tlte  water  at  different  depths.  As  the  line  was  hauling  in,  a  large 
iSnrord-fish  bit  at  the  tin  case  which  contained  our  thermometer,  but, 
fortunately,  he  failed  in  carrying  it  off.  On  the  27th,  in-  hit.  25° 
36'  S.,  long.  115o  06'  W.,  many  sea-birds  were  seen  ;  but  there 
was  no  other  indication  of  land.  From  the  time  of  our  quitting 
Easter  Island,  light  and  variable  winds  greatly  retarded  the  pro- 
gress of  the  ship,  untd  the  24th,  in  lat.  26°  20'  S.,  and  long.  116° 
80'  VV^.,  when  we  got  the  regular  trade-wind,  and  speedily  gained 
the  parallel  of  Ducie's  Island,  which  it  was  my  intention  to  pur- 
sue, that  the  island  might  by  no  possibility  be  passed.  In  the  fore- 
noon of  the  28th  we  saw  a  great  many  gulls  and  tern  ;  and  at  half- 
past  three  in  the  afternoon  the  island  was  descried  right  a-head. 
We  stood  on  until  sunset,  and  shortened  sail  within  three  or  four 
miles  to  windward  of  it. 

Ducie's  Island  is  of  coral  formation,  of  an  oval  form,  with  a  la- 
goon or  lake,  in  the  centre,  which  is  partly  inclosed  by  trees,  and 
partly  by  low  coral  flats  scarcely  above  the  water's  edge.  Tlie 
height  of  the  soil  uj)on  the  island  is  about  tweh  e  feet,  above  which 
trees  rise  about  fourteen  more,  making  its  greatest  elevation  about 
twenty-six  feet  from  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  lagoon  appears  to 
■  .be  deep,  and  has  the  entrance  into  it  for  a  boat,  when  the  water  is 
|sufficiently  smooth  to  admit  of  passing  over  the  bar.  It  is  situated 
It  the  south-east  extremity,  to  the  right  of  two  eminences  that 
'lave  the  appearance  of  sand-hills.  The  ishmd  lies  in  a  north-east 
land  south-west  direction,  is  one  mile  and  three  quarters  long,  and 


\i 


V 

I 


■1 

i 


1 
•I 


« 


\^4 


^*i 


AS 


VOYAOF.  TO  TMF   PAriFIC 


\lh 


niic  mill'  wido.  No  liviiisi;  lliiniis,  birds  oxcopKMl,  were  seen  ii|i(ii 
the  island  ;  luit  its  environs  appeared  lo  ahonnd  in  fish,  and  sliiiik- 
ucie  very  numerous.  Tiie  water  was  so  clear  over  tiie  coral,  ih;i' 
the  i)oftoni  was  distinctly  seen  when  no  soundings  could  he  Inn: 
with  thirty /'athoins  of  line  ;  in  twenty  four  fathoms,  the  shape  (,| 
the  rock  at  the  bottom  was  clearly  distinguished.     The  coral- 


were  of  various  colours,  prnici 


pally 


white,  sul| 


liihur. 


and  lilac 


IIK  . 

;iiiii 


isc 
iiri 


Inn 


formed  into  all  manner  of  shapes,  i^ivinji;  a  lively  and  variegated 
appearance  to  the  bottom;  but  they  soon  lost  thei- colour  at'id 
being  detached, 

Hy  the  soundings  round  this  little  island,  it  appeared,  for  a  cer- 
tain distance,  to  take  the  sliape  of  a  truncated  cone  having  its  b; 
<iownwards.  The  north-eastern  and  south-western  extremitie 
ftirnished  with  points  whicii  project  under  water  with  less  inclinal 
than  the  sides  of  the  island,  and  break  the  sea  before  ii  can  reacli 
the  barrier  to  the  little  lagoon  formed  within.  It  is  singular  llim 
these  butresses  are  opposed  to  the  only  two  quarters  whence  tlicir 
structure  has  to  apprehend  dangi^r;  that  on  the  north-east,  fioiii 
the  constant  action  of  the  trade-wind,  and  that  on  the  other  ex- 
tremity, from  the  long  rolling  swell  from  the  south-west,  so  preva- 
lent in  these  latitudes  ;  and  it  is  worthy  of  observation,  that  tlii- 
barrier,  which  has  the  most  powerful  enemy  to  oppose,  is  carricil 
out  inucll  farther,  and  with  less  abruptness  than  the  other. 

The  sand-mounds  raised  upon  the  barrier  are  conniiLd  to  the 
eastern  and  north-western  sides  of  the  lagoon,  the  s-'it'.  western 
part  being  left  low,  and  broken  by  a  channel  of  water.  On  tin 
rocky  surface  of  the  causeway,  between  the  lake  and  the  sea,  \w- 
a  stratum  of  dark  rounded  particles,  probably  coral,  and  above  ii 
another,  apparently  composed  of  decayed  v^egetable  substances 
A  variety  of  ever  green  trees  take  root  in  this  bank,  and  form  a 
canopy  almost  imj)enctrable  to  the  sun's  rays,  and  present  lo  llif 
eye  a  grove  of  the  the  liveliest  green. 

As  soon  as  we  had  finished  our  observations  on  Ducie's  Islaml. 
and  completed  a  plan  of  it,  we  made  sail  to  the  westward.  'J'ln 
island  soon  neaied  the  horizon,  and  when  seven  miles  distnni 
ceased  to  be  visible  from  ibe  deck.  For  several  days  afterwaid- 
the  winds  were  so  light,  that  we  made  but  slow  progress  ;  and  ;h 
we  lay-to  every  night,  hi  order  that  nothing  might  he  passed  in  tlii' 
dark,  our  daily  run  was  trifling.  On  the  30th,  we  saw  a  greai 
number  of  white  tern,  whicli  at  sunset  directed  their  fliglit  to  I  In 
N.  W.  At  noon  on  the  2(1  of  December,  flocks  of  gulls  and  tciii 
indicated  the  vicinity  of  land,  which  a  few  hours  afterwards  wa- 
seen  from  the  mast-head  at  a  considerable  distance.  At  daylii^iii 
on  the  3rd,  we  closed  with  its  south-western  end,  and  despatclui 
two  boats  to  make  tl.e  circuit  of  the  island,  while   the  ship  ranm 


Its 
cesl 
em 
deii 

eig| 
bot 


?#,Wluc 


were  seen  ii|mii 
fish,  iiiul  sliiiii, 
r  the  coral,  i|i;i> 
>  could  he  Ii;i|i 
\s,  tlie  shape  (,| 
The  coriil-liiii'. 
•,  and  hhic,  luni 
and  variegated 
lei.'  colour  at'lci 

ared,  for  a  ccr. 

having;  its  hux 

extremities  mi 

less  inclinalidii 

)re  ii   can  reacli 

is  siniiular  tlini 

•s  whence  their 

lorth-east,  Iioih 

1  the  other  (>\- 

•west,  so  previi- 

ation,  that   tlii- 

ipose,  is  canicil 

other. 

;on(iiiLd   to  llio 

Minth  western 

rater.     On  tlu 

Ind  the  sea,  lit< 

1,  and  ahove  ii 

)le   substances. 

Ilk,  and   form  ;i 

present  to   tin 

)ucie's  Island. 

htward.     'J'lic 

miles   distMiil  ^ 

lys   afterward^ 

pijress  ;  and  ;i- 

passed  in  thi' 

saw  a   sii'eiii 

fliu;ht  to  llif 

Lulls  and  tern 

lilei'wards  \v;b 

At  (laylii;iii 

d  despatclu'il 

slii|)  raiiiied 


•  m 


ANO   HF.F.niNfi's   STIIAIT. 


10 


MtitS  norihern   shore  nt  a   short  distance,  and   waited    for   them  oH'  a 
Miidy  hay  at  its  nort-west  extremity. 

We  l()und  that  the  island  dilleied   essentially  iVom  all    ollicrs  in 

•  ili  vicinity,  and  heloniied  (o  a  peculiar  formation,  \('ry  few  inslau- 
Q^of  which  are  in  existence.  VVali'o  and  Savage  Islands,  discov- 
iled  hy  Captain  Cook,  are  of  this  nundier,  and  perhaps  also  iVIal- 
^n  l>fan(l,  \isit<'d  l)y  liord  liyron  in  the  Blonde.  The  island  is 
ifc  miles  in  lenj;th,  and  one  in  hreadtli,and  has  a  (hit  surface  nearly 
dghtv  feet  above  the  sea.  On  all  sides,  except  the  north,  it  is 
bounibd  by  perpendicular  (Tills  about  fifty  feet  lii,ij;h.  composed  eii- 
tifely  of  dead  coral,  more  or  less  porous,  honeycomljed  at  tin;  sur- 
face, and  hardi'nin<|;  into  a  compact  calcareous  substance  within, 
pa-sessinii;  the  fracture  of  secondary  limestone,  and  has  a  species 
of  millcpore  iiUerspersed  throu;j;h  it.  These  dills  are  considerably 
undermined  by  the  action  of  the  waves,  and  some  of  them  appear 
OH  tlie  eve  of  preci|)itutinu;  their  superincumbent  weight  into  the 
tela;  those  which  are  less  injured  in  this  way  present  no  alternate 
ridges  or  indication  of  the  diirerenl  levels,  which  the  .sea  miu;ht  have 
occupied  at  (Kderent  periods,  but  a  smooth  surface,  as  if  the 
island,  whicii  ijere  is  every  probability  has  been  raised  by  vol- 
Otnic  ai^ency.  had  been  forced  up  by  one  great  subterraneous 
'convulsion.  The  dead  coral,  of  which  the  higher  |)art  of  the  isl- 
aad  consists,  is  nearly  circumscribed  by  ledges  of  living  coral,  which 
project  l)eyond  each  other  at  different  depths  ;  on  the  northern  side 
of  the  island  the  first  of  these  had  an  easy  slope  from  the  beach  tc. 
"a  distance  of  about  fifty  yards,  when  it  terminated  abruptly  .d)out 
tltfee  fathoms  under  water.  The  next  ledge  had  a  greater  descent 
and  extended  to  two  hundred  yards  from  the  beach,  with  twenty- 
five  fathoms  water  over  it,  and  there  ended  as  abru|)tly  as  the 
fcamer,  a  short  distance  beyond  whicli  no  bottom  could  be  gained 
with  200  fathoms  of  line.  INuincrous  echini  live  upon  these  ledges, 
tiid  a  variety  of  richly  coloured  fish  play  over  their  surface,  while 
gome  cray-fish  inhabit  the  deeper  sinuosities.  The  sea  rolls  in  suc- 
cessive breakers  over  these  ledges  of  coral,  and  renders  landing 
upon  tbeni  extremely  difli(;uU.     It   niay,  however,  be  efieeted  by 

,  anchoring  the  boat,  and  veering  her  close  into  the  surf,  and  then, 
watching  the  opportunity,  by  jumping  upon  the  ledge,  and  hasten- 
ing to  the  shore  before  the  succeeding  roller  approaches.  In  doing 
tliis  great  caution  must  be  observed,  as  the  reef  is  fidl  of  holes  and 
caverns,  and  the  rugged  way  is  strewed  with  sea-eggs,  which  inflict 
j^ery  j)ainfiil  wounds;  and  if  a  person  fall  into  one  of  these  hol- 
>ws,  his  life  will  be  greatly  endangered  by  the  points  of  coral 
featcbing  his  clothes  and  detaining  him  under  water.  The  beach, 
diich  appears  at  a  distance  to  be  composed  of  a  beautifiil  wiiite 
kand,  is  wholly  made  up  of  small  broken  portions  oi'  the  diftcrenl 
VOL.    I.  7 


*  •>*• 


M 


i 


a. 


L/l;f.f^i 


If 


'I 


II 


m 


50 


VOYAflE  TO  THE   PACIFIC 


[Ih 


-r. 


*   species  and  varieties  of  coral,  interniixcd   with  shells  of  testacooih 
and  cnistaceous  aniniiils. 

Insignificant  us  this  island  is  in  height,  compared  with  others,  i 
is  extreniel)^  dinicull  to  gain  the  sunnnit,  in  consequence  of  iIk. 
thickly  interlacing  shruhs  which  grow  upon  it,  and  form  so  dense  a 
covering,  that  it  is  impossihle  to  see  the  cavities  in  the  rock  heneuih, 
They  are  at  the  same  tin.  ?  too  fragile  to  afFord  any  support,  and  iln: 
traveller  often  sinks  into  the  cavity  up  to  his  shoulder  helbre  lii 
feet  reach  the  hottoni.  The  soil  is  a  black  mould  of  little  depth, 
wholly  formed  of  decayed  vegetable  matter,  through  which  poiiu^ 
of  coral  every  now  and  then  project. 

The  largest  tree  upon  the  island  is  the  pandanus,  though  there  i> 
another  tree  very  common,  nearly  of  the  same  she,  the  ivood  ui 
which  has  a  great  resemblance  to  connnon  ash,  and  possesses  ilit 
same  properties.  We  remarked  alsoasp.^ies  of  budleia,  wliicli 
was  nearly  as  large  and  as  common,  bearing  fruit.  It  affords  but  liitk 
wood,  and  luis  a  reddish  bark  of  considerable  astringency  :  seveni! 
s])ecies  of  this  genus  are  to  oe  met  with  among  the  Society  Isiaiid.v 
There  is  likewise  a  long  slender  plant  with  a  stem  about  an  inch  in 
diameter,  bearing  a  beautiful  pink  flower,  of  the  class  and  onln 
lie>  and«-'a  monogynia.  We  saw  no  esculent  roots,  and,  with  ilii. 
exception  of  the  pandanus,  no  tree  that  bore  fruit  fit  to  eat. 

This  island,  which  on  ou'  charts  berirs  the  name  of  Elii^abetl' 
ought  prop(!rly  to  be  calhul  Henderson's  Island,  as  it  was  first  nai;;- 
ed  by  Ca|)taiji  Henderson  of  the  Hercules  of  Calcutta.  Boiii 
these  vessels  visited  it,  and  each  supposing  it  was  a  new  discovcn, 
claimed  the  merit  of  it  on  her  arrival  the  next  day  at  Pitcairii  Inl- 
and, these  two  places  lying  close  together.  But  the  Hercules  [)ic- 
ceded  the  former  several  months.  To  neither  of  these  vei^sel-. 
however,  is  the  discovery  of  the  land  in  (juestion  to  be  attribn;< d 
as  it  was  first  seen  by  the  crew  of  the  Essex,  an  American  whalti. 
who  accidentally  fell  in  with  it  aficr  the  loss  of  theii'  vessel.  Tuu 
of  her  seamen,  preferring  the  chance  of  finding  su^ustence  on  tlii- 
desolate  spot  to  risking  their  lives  in  an  Oj)en  boat  across  iiie  widi 
expanse  wliich  lies  h(  tween  it  ami  the  coast  of  Chili,  were  at  tlioir. 
own  desire,  left  behind.  They  were;  afterwards  taken  off  by  ani 
English  whaler  that  heard  of  ihtir  disaster  at  Valparaiso  fromtlieirj 
surviving  shipmates.* 

*  The  oxtraonlina.  falo  of  tlu'  Ilst'ox  liaa  hern  recnrdod  in  ii  pamphlet  pulihslit;  j 
in  New  Ycik  by  tlx'  mato  of  that  v<ssol,  l;iit  nf  the  vcrpcity  uf  which  every  per.-oiij 
nui<t  eunsult  hi.--  nwn  judfrnient.  As  all  ly  reador.s  may  not  be  in  piis.-?e.s.siori  uf  ii,  I 
I  shall  brielly  state  that  ii  (IcBcribtrt  tlie  K.s.-ux  to  have  been  in  (he  .let  of  eatc  liiii.'l 
whales,  when  one  of  tliei^c  animals  heean\e  cnrajrefl,  and  attaeked  the  vos.^el  l.yj 
swimiiinfT  afcain.st  it  with  all  its  strenjrth.  The  steersman,  it  ik  saiil,  enihavuiini  j 
to  evade  (he  jihock  by  manag'ini;- the  helm,  Imt  in  vain.  The  thiid  blow  sto.i- iiil 
the  b.iwH  of  the  ship,  and  she  went   down  in  a  very  short  time,  even  before  .sour  ul ' 


iHJ- 


tspil 
sml 
islil 


[Da 

h  of  testaceous 


with  others, 

OCJUCllCC    of  I  III.. 

urm  so  (luiiso  a 
le  rock  boiciiib, 
iupport,  iiiid  til, 
Idcr  before  hi- 
of  little  deptli, 
1  wliich  j)oiiii. 


though  there  i, 

'.,  the  wood  01 

I  possesses  ilit 

hiKheia,  whirl: 

ifFords  hut  hiili 

;ency  :  several 

iooiety  Islamk 

Jout  an  inch  in 

lass  and  ordii 

and,  with  tin. 

;  to  eat. 

of  Ehisaheil' 

was  fii'si  nan:- 

ilcutta.     Boili 

lew  discoven 

It  I'itcaini  l<\- 

Hei-cules  prt.'- 

tiieso  ve;-sel- 

he  attrihu;<(!. 

rican  wliairi, 

■csseh     T\ii 

icnco  on  tlii- 

ross  tiie  wiik 

were  at  tlioirr 

LMi  off  1)}'  an  I 

iso  from  tlicirl 


■m 

•I 

AND  BEERINc's  STRAIT. 


51 


It  appears  from  their  narrative  that  the  island  possessed  no 
ppriiig  ;  and  that  the  two  men  procured  a  supply  of  water  at  a 
small  pool  which  received  the  draiiiings  from  the  upper  part  of  the 
island,  and  was  just  suflicient  l()r  th(.'ir  dail)  coustnuptiou. 

Ill  the  evening  we  bore  away  to  the  westward,  and  at  one 
^o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of  the  4th  of  December  we  saw  Pitcairn 
ilslaiui  bearing  S.  VV.  by  W.  4  W.  at  a  considerable  distance. 

the  boata  that  wcrn  a^'ay  liad  time  to  get  on  board.  Such  of  the  crow  na  were  in 
ttie  ship  miitrivcd  to  iave  tlicinselvcs  in  the  boats  that  were  near,  and  wore  soon 
Ipincd  by  tliuir  astunh'hcd  Hbipinatcs,  who  could   not  acooui  *.  for  the  sudden  disap- 

Carance  i>[  their  vessel ;  but  found  tluwnselves  unprovideil  with  every  thing  noccs- 
ry  for  a  «ea-voynpc,  ai.d  several  thousand  miles  fronj  any  place  whence  they  could 
bDpe  for  relief.     The   boats,  after  the   catastrophe,  determined  to  proceed  to  Chili, 
touchinjj  at  Ducie'a  Isla^id  in  tlieir  way.     They  steered  to  the  southward,  and  after 
Considerable  suflerings,  'anded   upon  an  island  which   tliey   supposed  to   be   that 
;iWx)ve-nicn(ioiiccl,  out  >. iiich  was,  in  fact,  Eli'nabeth  Island.     Not  beincf  able  to  pro- 
cure any  water  here,  tliey  continued  tlieir  voyage  to  the   coast  of  Chili,  where  two 
i^at.^  out  of  Ibe  three  arrived,  but  with  only  three  or  four  jjcrsons  in  theiii.     Tlie 
fhird  was  never  liciad  of ;  but  it  is  not  inipmbablo   that   (lie   wreck  of  a  l)oat  aial 
,'fbur  Kkelt.lDns  wliicji   were  seen  on   Ducie's  Island,  by  a  niereliant  vessel,  W(;ie  iier 
..^cniaios  and  tliat  uf  licr  crew.     Ha<l  these   unfortunate  |)er.sons   been  aware  of  the 
BituatidU  (if  I'iteairn  island,  which  is  only  ninety  miles  from  Elizabeth  Island,  and 
to  leward  uf  it,  all  their  li\es  might  liave  been  saved. 


■i 


\^^ 


i-i. 


m 


M: 


% 


(  I » 
>    ■ 


m 


^ 


ti 


1^ 


m 


iiphlet  publishciij 

ell  every  pi>r.--oi:  | 
liiissessioii  nf  it,  I 
.'n't  of  call  liiiiL' 
I    the   vossij  lijj 

id,  cndi  :ivuurr' 
I    blow  stu>f  ill  I 

I  I'cfore  .■301111  ui 


^ 


"tf^.4\ 


VOYACi;  TO  TliK   I'ACiKK 


i)u 


\:\    ■^'»' 


CHAPTER  III. 


•I  CM 


I ;  , 


Pitiairn  lalaiul— Adams  and  F  lives  come  oirto  the  Sliip— Adams'  Account  of  ib 
Mutiny  of  the  Bounty — Lieutenant  Bligh  sent  adrift  in  tlie  Launcli — Mutincii 
proceed  to  Tobouai — Hostile  reception  tliere — Proceed  to  Otaheite — Return i 
Tolwuai — Again  quit  it  ai\d  return  to  Otalieite — CInistian  determines  to  proctt 
to  Pitcairn  Island — Lands  there — Fate  of  the  Ship — Insurrection  anion;''  tij 
blacks — Murder  of  Cliristian  and  four  of  tlio  n^utinccrs — Adams  dangeruuih 
wounded — Fate  of  the  remaining  number. 

The  interest  wliieli  was  excited  by  the  announcement  of  Pit- 
cairn  Island  from  tlie  mast-head  brought  every  person  u])on  deck 
and  produced  u  train  of  re(h:ctions  that  momentarily  increased  on; 
anxiety  to  communicate  with  its  iidiabitants  ;  to  see  and  partaki'o; 
the  pleasures  of  their  little  domestic  circle  ;  and  to  learn  from  tliciii 
the  particulars  of  every  transaction  connected  with  the  fate  of  tin 
Bounty  :  hut  in  consequence  of  the  approach  of  night  this  gratifi- 
cation was  deferred  until  the  next  morning,  when,  as  we  won 
steering  for  the  sirle  of  tlie  island  on  which  Captain  Carteret  ii;i; 
marked  soundings,  in  the  hope  of  being  able  to  anchor  the  slii|i, 
we  had  the  [ileasure  to  see  a  boat  under  sail  hastenhig  toward  ik 
At  first  the  complete  e(|uipment  of  this  boat  raised  a  doubt  as  in 
its  being  the  property  of  tlie  islanders,  for  we  expected  to  see  oiil\ 
a  well-provided  canoe  in  their  possession,  and  we  therefore  conclui!- 
ed  tliat  the  boat  must  belong  to  some  whale-ship  cm  the  oj)j)osiii 
side ;  but  we  were  soon  agreeably  undeceived  by  the  singuhir  a|i- 
pearance  of  her  crew,  whicii  consisted  of  old  Adams  and  all  tin 
young  men  of  the  island. 

Before  they  ventured  to  lake  hold  of  the  ship,  they  inquired  i 
they  might  come  on  board,  and  upon  permission  being  granted, 
they  sprang  up  the  side  and  siiook  every  oflicer  by  the  hand  wiii: 
undisguised  feeliiigs  of  gratification. 

The  activity  of  the  young  men  exceeded  that  of  old  yVdaniv 
who  was  conse(|ur'ntly  almost  the  last  l(j  greet  us.  He  was  in  li!- 
sixly-fiflh  year,  and  was  unusually  strong  and  active  for  his  ai:r. 
notwithstanding  the  inconvenience  of  considerable  corpuleiicN 
He  was  dressed  in  a  sailor's  shirt  and  trousers  and  a  lovv-crowiiLiI 
hat,  whicii  he  instinctively  held  in  his  hand  until  ilesired  to  pui  i' 
on.      He  still  retained  his  sailor'.s  gait,  doiling  his  hat  and  smouiii- 


,fand 


[I). 


•*. 


nis'  Account  of  tb 
.aunch — Mutiucci. 
Italieite — Rctui  n  l 
;cnnines  to  procei; 
rectiou  aiuuu,"-  tl.i 
ilains  daiig-ciuu!l; 


cement  of  Pit. 
^on  upon  dock 
■  increased  mi 
and  partake  o: 
earn  Ironi  tlii'n 
the  iate  of  ili, 


iffht  tl 


us  gratili- 


tl,  as  Ave  wen 
n  Carteret  ha- 
?lior  the  sliiji, 
ing  toward  u<. 
a  douht  as  to 
ed  to  see  oiilv 
'efore  conclui!- 
1  the  op])o>ii 
c  singuhu-  ;i|i- 
iis  and   all  tin 

oy  iu(|uir(Ml  ii 
ii.'iiig  grante(l,j 
till!  haiitt  willil 


OKI 


yVdi 


till?, 

e  was  in  iiis| 

'^  for  his  age, 

corpulency, 

low-crowned 

red    to  put  il| 

and  snioolli- 


.#H^^-| 


AND  BEK.RIN(i  S  STUAIT. 


53 


%,'i' 


in,i  down  his  hald  fcrclicad   whenever  he  was  aldrosscd   by   the 

■  olhccrs. 

It  was  the  first  time  he  had  been  on  board  a  ship  of  war  since 
tlic  mutiny,  and  his  mind  naturally  reverted  to  scenes  that  could 
not  fail  to  produce  a  temporary  embarrassment,  heightened,  jicv- 
haps,  by  the  familiarity  with  which  he  found  himself  addressed  by 
tiersons  of  a  class  with  those  whom  he  had  been  accustomed  to 
obey.  Apprehension  for  his  safety  formed  no  part  of  his  thoughts : 
he  had  received  too  many  demonstrations  of  the  good  feeling  that 
existed  towards  him,  both  on  the  part  of  the  British  government 
imd  of  individuals,  to  entertain  any  alarm  on  that  head  ;  and  as  ev- 
0ity  person  endeavoured  to  set  his  mind  at  rest,  he  very  soon  made 
Imnself  at  home.* 

The  young  men,  ten  in  number,  were  tall,  robust,  and  healthy, 
with  good-natured  countenances,  which  would  any  where  have  pro- 
Cured  them  a  friendly  reception  ;  and  with  a  simplicity  of  manner 
and  a  fear  of  doing  wrong,  which  at  once  prevented  the  possibility 
of  giving  offence.  Unacquainted  with  the  world,  they  asked  a 
number  of  questions  which  would  have  applied  better  to  persons 
yi'ith  whom  they  had  been  intimate,  and  wiio  had  left  them  but  a 
short  time  before,  than  to  perfect  strangers ;    and  inquired     after 

•ships  and  people  we  had  never  heard  of.  Their  dress,  made  up 
of  the  ])rc:sents  which  had  been  given  them  by  the  masters  and 
seamen  of  merchant  ships,  was  a  perfect  caricature.  Some  had 
on  long  black  coat?  without  any  other  article  of  dress  excejil 
treus<n-s,  some  shirts  without  coats,  and  others  waistcoats  without 
either;  none  had  shoes  or  stockings,  and  only  two  possessed  hats, 
neither  of  which  seemed   likely  to  liang  long  together. 

They  were  as  anxious  to  gratify  their  curiosity  about  the  decks,  as 
we  were  to  learn  from  them  the  state  of  the  colony,  and  the  par- 
ticulars of  the  fate  of  the  mutineers  who  had  settled  upon  the 
island,  which  had  been  variously  related  by  occa,sional  visiters  ; 
and  we  were  more  especially  desirous  of  obtaining  Adams'  own 
narrative  ;  lor  it  was  peculiarly  interesting  to  learn  from  one  who 
|iad  been  implicated  in  the  mutiny,  the  facts  of  that  transaction, 
now  that  he  considered  himself  exempt  from  the  penalties  of  his 
crime. 

I  trust  that,  in  renewing  the   di,scu,ssion  of  this  affair,  1  shall  not 

jbe  considered  as  unnecessarily  wounding  the  feelings  of  the  friends 
of  any  of  the  parties  concerned  ;  but  it  is  satisfactory  to  show,  that 

|th().^e  who  .sullered  by  the  seiileuce  of  the  court-martial  were  con- 
victed u|)()ii  evidence  which  is  now  corroborated  by  the  statement 

*  Since  the  M.S.  .jf  tlii=.  iiiiiriitive  wii.s  sent  tu  jncss,  iult.liiironci;  o(  Adams'  ikatli 
luis  l)C(.  11  coiiiiiiuukalLd  tl)  iiiL  l,y  our  Consul  at  ilie  Samlwidi  Islands. 


i 


y-!. 


}f 


pi 

4^ 


/ 


;»|i 


itev  V 


54 


VOYACE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[/A, 


of  ill!  acconiplicc  who  1ms  no  motive  for  concealing  the  truth.  Tl. 
following  account  is  conii)ile(l  almost  entirely  from  Adams'  naii; 
live,  signed  with  his  own  hand.  But  to  render  the  narrative  im,, 
coinjilete,  I  have  addeil  such  additional  facts  as  were  derived  Ikii 
the  inhabitants,  who  are  perfectly  acquainted  with  every  incidiii 
connected  with  the  transaction.  In  presenting  it  to  the  puhlic, ; 
vouch,  only,  for  its  being  a  correct  statement  of  the  abovc-nici;. 
tioned  authorities. 

His  Majesty's  ship  Bounty  was  purchased  into  the  service,  iiii 
placed  under  the  command  of  Lieutenant  Bligh  in  1787.  SI; 
left  England  in  December  of  that  year,  w  ith  orders  to  procet'd  i 
Otaheite,*  and  transport  the  bread  fruit  of  that  country  to  ti, 
British  Settlements  in  the  West  Indies,  and  to  bring  also  soin 
.specimens  of  it  to  England.  Her  crew  consisted  of  forty-four  pn 
sons,  and  a  gardener.  She  was  ordered  to  make  the  passage  roim 
Cape  Horn,  but  after  contending  a  long  time  with  adverse  gak. 
in  extremely  cold  weather,  she  was  obliged  to  bear  away  for  li, 
Cape  of  Good  Hope,  where  she  underwent  a  refit,  and  arrived  ; 
her  destination  in  October  178S.  Six  months  were  spent  at  Oi? 
lieitc,  collecting  and  stowing  away  the  fruit,  during  which  lime  il 
ofliceis  and  seamen  had  free  access  to  the  shore,  and  made  nuui 
friends,  though  only  one  of  the  seamen  formed  any  alliance  then 

In  April  1789,  they  took  leave  of  their  friends  at  Otaheite.  an 
proceeded  to  Anamooka,  where  Lieutenant   Bligh  replenished  li, 
stock  of  water,  and  took  on  board  hogs,  fruit,  vegetables,  &ic.,  an 
put  to  sea  again  on  the  26th  of  the  same  month.     Throughout  ll. 
voyage  Mr.  Bligh  had  repeated  misunderstandings  with  his  ofllcei 
and  had  on  several  occasions  given  them  and  the  ship's  compai. 
just  reasons  for  complaint.      Still,  whatever  might  have  been  ili 
feelinfis  of  the  officers,  Adams  declares  there  was  no  real  discoi. 
lent  among  the  crew ;    much  less  was  there  any  idea  of  oflciii;. 
violence  to  their  commander.      The  officers,  it  must  be  admitted 
bad  much  more  cause  for  dissatisfaction  than  the  seamen,  especiali 
the  master  and  Mr.  Christian.     The  latter  was  a  protege  of  Linl 
tenant  Bligh,  and  unfortunately  was  under  some  obligations  to  In 
of  a  ])ecuniary  nature,  of  which  Bligh  frequently  reminded  liii 
when  any  difference  arose.     Christian,  excessively  annoyed  at  l! 
share  of  blame  which  repeatedly  fell  to  his  lot,  in  common  with  ill 
rest  of  the  officers,  could  ill  endure  the  additional  taunt  of  i)ri\a 
obligations ;    and  in  a  moment  of  excitation  told  his  commamli 
that  sooner  or  later  a  day  of  reckoning  would  arrive. 

The  day  previous  to  the  miuiny  a  serious  quarrel  occurred  I- 


1^  <W(| 
misl 
coni 
supl 
to 


*  TIlis  word  liiie  sinct  lict^ii  .spelled  Tnh ili,  \iiii  as  I  liavc  a  vciicradmi  1- 
iiiuiie  as  it  itj  written  in  the  celebrated  Vdyapcs  of  Captain  Cook — a  feelinf  in  \ 
1  am  bure  I  am  not  sin^rular — J  -iliall  adlicrc  to  liis  ortlui!»Taphy. 


.X 


[Ik, 

5  the  truth.  Tli 
1  Adams'  nan;; 
e  narrativo  iiim 
;re  derived  I'l,,, 
1  every  incidcn 

to  the  puhlic, ; 

the  above-iiici]. 

the  service,  an 

in  1787.      Sli 

rs  to  proceed i 

country  to  li, 

bring  also  som 

Df  forty-four  ))( i 

lie  passage  roim 

1  adverse  gak- 

ar  away  for  il, 

:,  and  arrived  ; 

re  spent  at  Oi; 

;  which  time  tl 

md  made  ma:, 

Y  alliance  thLMi 

at  Otaheile.  an 

replenished  h, 

tables,  &ic..  an 

Throughout  ll. 

with  his  officii' 

lip's  comjiaii 

have  been  ili 

no  real  disciti 

dea  of  ofleiii.. 

ist  be  admilte 

mien,  especiali 

rotege  of  Lli  > 

gallons  to  111; 

reminded  liii 

innoyed  at  iL 

immon  withiii 

aunt  of  priva 

lis  commanili 

occurred  1> 

veneration  I'm  li 
•a  fcclincr  in  «' 


1«25.J 


AND    nEKRING  S    STRAIT. 


55 


tW(!eu  Bligh  and  his  ofllcers,  about  some  cocoa-nuts  which  were 
missed  from  his  private  stock  ;  and  Christian  again  fell  under  his 
COnmiander's  disjileasure.      The   same  evening  he  was  invited  to 

tjper  in  the  cabin,  but  he  had  not  so  soon  forgotten  his  injuries  as 
accept  of  this  ill-timed  civility,  and  returned  an  excuse. 
I  Matters  were  in  this  state  on  the  '.iSth  of  April  1789,  when  the 
jjibunty,  on  her  homeward  voyage,  was  passing  to  the  southward  of 
Tofoa,  one  of  the  Friendly  Islands.     It  was  one  of  those  beautiful 
Wglits  which  characterize  the  tropical  regions,  when  the   mildness 
drthe  air  and  the  stillness  of  nature  dispose  the  mind  to  reflection. 
Christian,  j)ondering  over  his  grievances,  considered  thein  so  intol- 
enible,  that  any  thing  appeared  preferable  to  enduring  them,  and 
he  determined,  as  he  could  not  redress  them,  that  he  would  at  least 
escape  from  the  possibility  of  their  being  increased.     Absence  from 
ESigland,  and  a  long  residence  at  Otaheite,  where  new  connexions 
Wflire  formed,  weakened  the  recollection  of  his  native  country,  and 
pl^pared  his  mind  for  the  reception  of  ideas  which  the  situation  of 
tj^  ship  and   the  serenity  of  the  moment  particularly  favoured. 
ms  plan,  strange  as  it  must  appear  for  a  young  ofliccr  to  ado|)t, 
who  was  fairly  advanced   in  an   honourable    profession,  was  to  set 
Miaself  adrift  upon  a  raft,  and  make  his  way  to  the  island   then  in 
sight.     As  quick  in  the  execution  as  in  the  design,  the  raft  was 
%00n  constructed,  various  useful  articles  were  got  together,  and  he 
was  on  the  point  of  launching  it,  when  a  young  officer,  who   after- 
wards perished  in  the  Pandora,  to  whom  Christian  communicated 
hi^ntention,  recommended  him,  rather  than  risk  his  life  on  so  haz- 
ardbus  an  expedition,  to  endeavour  to  take  possession  of  the  ship, 
which  he  thour^lit  would  not  be  very  difficult,  as  many  of  the  ship's 
company   weie  not   well  disposed   towards  the    coinmander,   and 
would  all  be  very  glad   to  return   to  Otaheite,  and   reside  among 
their  friends  in  that  island.      This  daring  proposition  is  even  more 
e^raordinary  than   tiie   premeditated   scheme   of   his  companion, 
inP,  if  true,  ccri,ainiy  relieves   Christian   from  jiart  of   tlie  odium 
which  has  hitlieito  attached  to  him   as   the   sole   instigator  of   the 
tautiny.* 

,»  it  however  accorded  too  well  with  the  disposition  of  Christian's 
mind,  and.  hazardous  as  it  was,  he  determined  to  co-operate  with 
hie  friend  in  effecting  it,  resolving,  if  he  failed,  to  throw  himself 
into  the  sea;  and  that  tliere  might  be  no  chance  of  being  saved, 
le  tied  a  deep  sea  lead  about  his  neck,  and  concealed  it  within  his 
clothes. 

^^_^Tlii^  ncronnt,  however,  (HlTcis  materially  from  a  note  in  Muvr-liall's  Naval  Riog'- 
■pW)liy,  Vol.  ii.  Part  ii.  p.  778:    unfortunately  this  volume  was  nut   published  when 
^"^le  (llossom  lift  England,  or  more  satislactory  evidence  on   this,  and  other  points, 
"Tnipiit  have  been  obiaiucd.     However,  this  ir.  the  stutemeut  uf  Adunis. 


I 


M 


•   i.     V 


m 


.^ 


nl 


mma 


,A    I 


Mm  f  W  ! 


f 


'  1. 


JW    1 


II  If-  ^ 


5G 


VOYAOn  TO  TTIE  PACIFIC 


»r, 


Cliristian  liapponod  to  have  the  mnrnins;  watcli,  and  as  soon  :i, 
!io  bad  reliovt'd  tlic  oOirer  of  the  dock,  ho  ontciod  iiilo  coiners,, 
tioii  with  Quintal,  the  only  ono  of  the  seamen  who,  Adams  sulil 
had  Ibimed  any  serious  attachment  at  Otaheite  ;  and  after  exp'iii,,. 
ting  on  the  happy  liouis  they  had  passed  there,  disclosed  his  inh  „. 
lions.  Quintal,  after  some  consideration,  said  ho  thought  it  a  d.iii. 
gerous  attempt,  and  declined  taking  a  part.  Vexed  at  a  repnlv 
in  a  quarter  whore  he  was  most  sanguine  of  success,  and  panidi. 
larly  at  having  revealed  sentiments  which  if  made  known  won! 
bring  him  to  an  ignominious  death,  Christian  became  despc  ate,  cv 
hibited  the  lead  about  his  neck  in  testimony  of  his  own  resohitioi 
and  taxed  Quintal  with  cowardice,  declaring  it  was  fear  alone  lli; 
restrainetl  him.  Quintal  denied  this  accusation  ;  aiul  in  n^ply  i 
Christian's  further  argument  that  success  would  restore  them  ail  i 
the  happy  island,  and  the  connexions  they  had  left  behind,  il. 
strongest  persuasion  he  could  have  used  to  a  mind  somewhat  \m, 
pared  to  acquiesce,  he  reconnnended  that  some  ono  olso  should  1. 
tried — Isaac  Martin  for  i)istance,  who  was  standing  by.  Mail!: 
more  ready  than  his  shipmate,  emphatically  declared,  "  He  v. 
for  it;  it  was  the  very  thing."  Successfid  in  one  instance,  C'liii- 
tian  went  to  every  man  of  his  watch,  many  of  whom  he  found  di 
posed  to  join  him,  and  before  daylight  tlie  greater  ]iorti(m  of  il, 
shi])'s  company  were  brought  over. 

Adams  was  sleeping  in  his  hammock,  when  Sumner,  one  of  tli 
seamen,  came  to  him,  and  whispered  tliat  Christian  was  goin^  i 
take  the  ship  from  her  commander,  and  set  him  and  the  master  i 
slioro.  On  hearing  this,  Adams  went  upon  deck,  and  found  ever 
thing  in  great  confusion ;  but  not  then  liking  to  take  any  pan 
the  transaction,  he  returned  to  his  hammock,  and  remained  tlin 
until  he  saw  Christian  at  the  arm-chest,  distributing  arms  to  ;i 
who  came  for  them  ;  and  then  seeing  measures  had  proceeded  > 
far,  and  apjn'ohensive  of  being  on  the  weaker  side,  he  turned  i 
again  and  went  for  a  cutlass. 

All  those  who  proposed  to  assist  Christian  being  armeil,  Adan:, 
with  others,  were  ordered  to  secure  the  officers,  while   Cliri--ii;| 
and  the  master-at-arms  proceeded  to  tlie  cabin  to  make  a  prison  j 
of  Lieutenant  Bligh.     They  seized  him  in  his  cot,  bound  his  luim 
behind  him,  and  brought  him  upon  deck.      He   remonstrated  wii 
them  on  their  conduct,  but  received  only  abuse  in  return,  and 
blow  from  the  master-at-arms  with  the  flat  side  of  a  cutlass.      II 
was  placed  near  the  binnacle,  and  detained   there,  with   his  an 
pinioned,  by  Christian,  who  held  him  with  one  hand,  and  a  bavoi; 
with  the  other.      As  soon  as  the  lieutenant  was  secured,  llie  snii 
nels  that  had  been  j)laced  over  the  doors  of  the  officers'  caln 
were  taken  off;   the  master  then  jumj)ed  upon   the  forecastle.  ;: 


M 


1h, 


hl5.] 


AND    BEEniNO  S    STRAIT. 


and  as  sunn  ;,, 
1  into  miivcisi. 
ho,  Ailiiins  s;ii(! 
1(1  after  ('Xj)iiii;i. 
closed  his  iiiiii,. 
liouglit  it  ii  (!,ii. 
ed  at  a  i'('|m,!- 
iss,  and  paiiid. 
o  kii()\vi\  Won' 
le  desjK  1  aU;,  cv 
own  rcsolmloii 

fear  alone  llr. 
and  in  ^•c\^\\  i 
itore  them  all  i 
left  hehind,  li, 

somewhat  pn 
s  else  sliould  1. 
ig  by.  Marti! 
lared,  '•  If.-  v. 

instance,  C'liri' 
)ni  he  found  di 

portion  of  il 

nner,  one  of  ili 

in  was  goins;  i 

,1  the  master  ( 

d  found  evrr 

<o  any  part 

remained  tiin 

)g  arms  to  a 

i)roceed(,'(l  ^ 

he  turned  u 

armed,  Adanigy,' 
hile  Chnsii;Tt 
akc  a  prisdii^&r 

)ound  his  ii;iih- Iv 

lonstratcd  wii 

return,  iiiu! 

cutlass,      li 

with   iiis  ;ii; 

and  a  havm: 

ired,  lh(>  scni 

)flicers'   ciilii: 

forecastle.  ;i 


leavoured  to  form  a  party  to  retake  the  ship ;  but  he  was  quiek- 
If  secured,  and  sent  below  in  confinement. 

This  conduct  of  the  master,  who  was  the  only  officer  that  tried 
ta.bring  the  mutineers  to  a  sense  of  their  duty,  was  the  more  hij^hly 
creditable  to  him,  as  he  had  the  greatest  cause  for  discontent,  Mr. 
Bligh  having  been  more  severe  to  him  than  to  any  of  the  other 
ofBccrs. 

About  this  time  a  dispute  arose,  whether  the  lieutenant  and  his 
party,  w  hom  the  mutineers  resolved  to  set  adrift,  should  have  the 
launch  or  the  cutter ;  and  it  being  decided  in  favour  of  the  launch, 
Chfistian  oruered  her  to  be  hoisted  out.  Martin,  who,  it  may  be 
remembered,  was  the  first  convert  to  Christian's  plan,  foreseeing 
that  with  the  aid  of  so  large  a  boat  the  party  would  find  their  way 
to  England,  and  tiiat  their  information  would  in  all  probability  lead 
to^e  detection  of  the  offenders,  relinquished  his  first  intention, 
and  exclaimed,  "If  you  give  him  the  launch,  I  will  go  with  him; 
you  may  as  well  give  him  the  ship."  He  really  ajjpears  to  have 
been  in  earnest  in  making  this  declaration,  as  he  was  afterwards 
ordered  to  the  gangway  from  his  })ost  of  conniiand  over  the  lieu- 
tenant, in  consequence  of  liaving  fed  him  with  a  shaddock,  and  ex- 
changed looks  with  him  indicative  of  his  friendly  intentions.  It 
also  fell  to  the  lot  of  Adains  to  guard  the  lieutenant,  who  observ- 
ing him  stationed  by  his  side,  exclaimed,  "  And  you,  Smith,  are 
fim  against  me  ?"*  To  which  Adams  replied  that  he  only  acted  as 
the  othcns  did — he  must  be  like  the  rest.  Lieutenant  Rligli,  while 
thiu  secured,  reproached  C!hristian  with  ingratitude,  reminded  him 
O^Ks  obligations  to  him,  and  begged  he  would  recollect  he  had  a 
wire  and  ianiily.  To  which  Christian  replied,  that  he  should  have 
ti^ight  of  that  before. 

The  launch  was  by  this  time  hoisted  out;  and  the  officers  and 
Be$men  of  Lieutenant  Bligh's  party  having  collected  what  was 
necessary  for  their  voyagc,f  were  ordered  into  her.  Among  those 
llHho  took  their  seat  in  the  boat  was  Martin,  which  being  noticed 
by  Quintal,  he  pointed  a  musket  at  him,  and  declared  he  would 
shoot  him  unless  he  instantly  returned  to  the  ship,  which  he  did. 
The  armourer  and  carpenter's  mates  were  also  forcildy  detained, 
as  they  might  be  required  hereafter.  Lieutenant  Bligh  was  then 
conducted  to  the  gangway,  and  ordered  to  descend  into  the  boat, 
where  his  hands  were  unbound,  and  he  and  his  party  were  veered 
astern,  and  kept  there  while  the  ship  stood  towards  the  island. 
During  this  time  Lieutenant  Bligh  requested  some  nuiskets,  to  pro- 
pel his  party  against  the  natives  ;   but  they  were  refused,  and  four 

■*■ 

.♦  Adams  went  by  tlic  name  of  Alexander  Sniitli  in  t!ie  liounty. 
1 1  Consisting-  of  n  small  cisk  of  water,  IfiOlbs.  of  liread,  a  small   riuantity  of  rum 
pd  wine,  a  quadrant,  compass,  some  lines,  rope,  canvas,  twine,  &c. 
VOL.   I.  8 


I-* 


(   ,^ 


i 


t 


'ii' 


w 


■^H^P 


.— -'         >-' 


/:       V  ,i 


y. 


1    '  ! 


H 


58 


VOYAfiE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[h 


cutlasses  thrown  to  tliciu  instead.  When  llioy  were  about  i, 
leagues  from  Tofoa,  at  liieutenaiU  Bllgh'.s  request,  the  hiuncli  w 
cast  off,  and  inunediately  "■  Huzza  for  Otaheite!"  cclioed  throui^Ii,, 
the  Bounty. 

There  now  remained  in  the  ship,  Christian,  who  was  the  nun,. 
Heywood,  Young;,  and   Stewart,  midshipmen,  the  inaster-at-iin,, 
and  sixteen  seamen,  besides  tlie  three  artilicers,  and  the  gaideiu; 
forming  in  all  twenty-five. 

In  the  launch  were  the  lieutenant,  master,  surgeon,  a  ukisui 
mate,  two  midshipmen,  botanist,  three  warrant-ofHcers,  clerk,  ni 
eight  seamen,  making  in  all  nineteen  ;  and  had  not  the  three  [n, 
sons  above-mentioned  been  forcibly  detained,  the  captain  wou; 
have  had  exactly  half  the  ship's  company.  It  may  perhaps  n 
pear  strange  to  many,  that  \\ith  so  large  a  party  in  his  llnoil 
Lieutenant  Bligh  made  no  attempt  to  retake  the  vessel ;  but  il 
mutiny  was  so  ably  conducted  that  no  op])ortunity  was  aftbnl, 
him  of  doing  so ;  and  the  strength  of  the  crew  was  decidedly 
favour  of  Christian.  Lieutenant  Bligh's  adventures  and  sufFeriiii 
until  he  readied  Timor,  are  well  known  to  the  public,  and  need:' 
repetition. 

The  ship,  having  stood  some  time  to  the  W.  N.  W.,  with  avk- 
to  deceive  tlie  party  in  the  launch,  was  afterwards  put  about,  ai; 
her  course  directed  as  near  to  Otaheite  as  the  wind  would  pcniii 
In  a  few  days  they  found  some  difliculty  in  reaching  that  islam 
and  bore  away  for  Tobouai,  a  small  island  about  300  miles  to  tk 
southward  of  it,  where  they  agreed  to  establish  themselves,  pif- 
vided  tlie  natives,  who  were  numerous  were  not  hostile  to  tlu 
purpose.  Of  this  they  had  very  early  intimation,  an  attack  huii:, 
made  upon  a  boat  which  they  sent  to  sound  the  harbour.  Slie 
however,  effected  her  purpose  ;  and  the  next  morning  the  Boiiiir 
was  warped  inside  the  reef  that  formed  the  port,  and  station' 
close  to  the  beach.  An  attempt  to  land  was  next  made  ;  but  i! 
natives  disputed  every  foot  of  ground  with  spears,  clubs,  and  stoip. 
until  they  were  dispersed  by  a  discharge  of  cannon  and  muskcii. 
On  this  t'i!  y  fled  to  the  interior,  and  refused  to  hold  any  lliitli 
intercours»:  with  their  visiters. 

The  detennined  hostility  of  the  natives  put  an  end  to  tiie  mi; 
tineer's  design  of  settling  amont:;  them  at  that  time  ;  and,  after  tu 
days'  fruitless  attempt  at  reconciliation,  they  left  tlie  island  and  pr  • 
ceeded  to  Otaheite.  Tobouai  was,  however,  a  favourite  spot  uii 
them,  and  they  determined  to  make  another  effort  to  settle  tlieit. 
which  they  thought  would  yet  be  feasible,  provided  the  isliimi 
ers  could  be  made  acquainted  with  their  friendly  intentions.  Tl, 
only  way  to  do  this  was  through  interpreters,  who  might  be  piociin 
at  Otaheite  ;  and  in  order  not  to  be  dependent  upon  the  natives  T- 


m 

boij 
me  I 
anc 
whd 
tianl 
ven[ 
XAe\ 
kdl 
shii 
coU 
acctl 


•^.4.y 


4 


t' 


y  were  about  |, 
5t,  the  laiiiicli  u 
echoed  tliroiiglioi 

ho  was  the  iinn,. 
le  inaster-al-niii,, 
incl  the  garduiK; 

irgeon,  a  iiiusii; 
(Hcers,  clerk,  m 
lot  the  three  p,, 
lie  captain  wou; 
may  perhaps  a|. 
ty  in  his  favou 
vessel ;  hut  t|. 
nity  was  aftoid, 
was  decidedly 
res  and  sutFerin;. 
blic,  and  needi 

.  \y.,  with  avii- 

put  about,  in; 
d  would  pcriiii! 
ling  that  islanc 
300  miles  to  tk 
ihemselvcs,  pro  . 

hostile  to  tli( 
an  attack  bcii;, 

li  arbour.      Sli? 
ling  the  Bonn! 

,  and   station^ 
made ;    but  ti    ' 

ubs,  and  stom. 

and  muskcii, 

M  any  luidi. 

nd  to  the  iiii; 
and,  after  lu 
island  and  piv- 

iirite  spot  ui! 

o  settle  llieit; 

ed    the  ishimi- 

cntions.     T! 

It  be  prociii' 

he  natives  Tr- 


1625.] 


AND  UKERINIJ  S  STRAIT. 


59 


touai  for  wives,  they  determined  to  engage  several  Otaheitan  wo- 
men to  accompany  them.      They   reached  Otaheite  in  eight  days, 
and  were  received  w  ith  the  greatest  kindness  by  their  lormer  friends, 
Vlho  immediately  incpiired  for  the  captain  and  his  ofHcers.     Chris- 
tfabi  and  his    party   having  antici])ated  inquiries  of  this  nature,  in- 
f^ted  a  story  to  account   for  their  absence,  and   told   them   that 
sutenant  IJIigh  having  found  an  island  suitable  for  a  settlement, 
landed  there  with  some  of  his  ollicers,  and  sent  them  in  the 
i^p  to  procure  live  stock  and  whatever  else  would  be  useful  to  the 
cdrony,  and  to  bring  besides  such  of  the  natives  as  were  willing  to 
accompany  them.*     Satisfied  with  this  plausible  account,  the  chiefs 
supplied  tliem  with  every  thing  they  wanted,  and  even  gave  them 
a  bull  and  a  cow  which  had  been  confided  to  their  care,  the  only 
ones,  I  believe,  that  were  on  the  island.     They  were  equally  for- 
tunate in  finding  several  persons,  both  male  and  female,  willing  to 
acfompany  them  ;     and  thus  furnished,  they  again   sailed  for   To- 
tx^ai,  where,  as  they  expected,  they  were  better  received  than  be- 
;,  in  consequence  of  being  able  to  communicate  with  the  natives 
jugh  their  interpreters. 
Experience  had  taught  them  the  necessity  of  making  self-de- 
^'fence  their  first  consideration,  and  a  fort   was  consequently  com- 
menced, eighty  yards  square,  surrounded  by  a  wide  ditch.      It  was 
"nearly  completed,  when  the  natives,  imagining  they  were  going  to 
flfestroy  them,  and  that  the  ditch  was  intended  for  their  jilace  of 
"♦inDBrment,  planned  a  general  attack  when  the  ])arty  should  ])roceed 
to  work  in  the  morning.      It  fortunately  happened  that  one  of  the 
l&ailves  who  accompanied  them  from  Otaheite  overheard  this  con- 
spiracy, and  instantly  swam  off  to  the  ship  and  apprised   the  crew 
^'  their  danger.      Instead,  therefore,  of  proceeding  to  their  work 
ai  the  fort,  as    usual,  the  following  morning,  they  made  an  at- 
tack upon  the  natives,  killed  and  wounded  several,  and  obliged  the 
others  to  retire  inland. 

Great  dissatisfaction  and  difference  of  opinion  now  arose  among 
the  crew :  some  were  for  abandoning  the  fort  and  returning  to  Ota- 
heite ;  while  others  were  for  proceeding  to  the  Marquesas  ;  but  the 
majority  were  at  that  Jme  for  com))leting  what  they  had  begun, 
and  remaining  at  Tobouai.  At  length  the  continued  state  of  sus- 
pense in  which  they  were  kept  by  the  natives  made  them  decide 
to  return  to  Otaheite,  though  much  against  the  inclination  of  Chris- 

*  In  the  Memoir  of  Captain  Peter  Heywood,  in  Marshall's  Naval  Biography,  it  is 
related  tliftt  the  nnitinecrs  availing-  themsclvc:  of  a  fiction  which  had  been  created 
tty  Lieutenant  Bligii  respecting  Captain  Cook,  stated  that  th'y  had  fallen  in  with 
aim,  and  tiuit  he  had  sent  the  ship  back  for  all  the  live  stock  that  rould  be  spared, 
In  order  to  form  a  settlement  at  a  place  called  Wytootacke,  which  Bligh  had  dis- 
»eovered  in  his  ruwfc  to  the  Friendly  Islands. 


V  ■ 
I.   .' 


'> 


U 


'i 


r^ 


■•«  'i 


'.  i^ll 


»4 


i:^ 


'  'l'^ 


(50 


VOYA(iK  TO  THK  PACIFIC 


[Ih. 


lian,  wlio  in  vain  cxpostiilatod  willi   tiicm  on   the  fully  of  such 
rt'solution,  and  iliu  certain  detection  that  must  ensue. 

The  iniplenients  being  embarked,  they  proceeded  therefore 
second  linio  to  Otalieite,  and  were  again  well  received  by  th^ 
friends,  who  replenished  their  stock  of  provision.  During  the  pa, 
sage  Christian  formed  his  intention  of  proceeding  in  the  ship ; 
some  distant  uninhabited  island,  for  the  purpose  of  permancii! 
settling,  as  the  most  likely  means  of  escaping  the  punishment  wIik 
he  well  knew  awaited  him  in  the  event  of  being  discovered.  0 
communicating  this  plan  to  his  shipmates  he  found  only  a  few  i; 
clined  to  assent  to  it ;  but  no  objections  were  offered  by  those  wi 
dissented,  to  his  taking  the  ship  ;  all  they  required  was  an  eqi 
distribution  of  such  provisions  and  stores  as  might  be  useii, 
Young,  Brown,  Mills,  Williams,  Quintal,  M-Coy,  Martin,  Adan 
and  six  natives  (four  of  Otalieite  and  two  of  Tobouai)  deterniin 
to  follow  the  fate  ol'  Christian.  Remaining,  therefore,  only  two: 
ty-ibur  hours  at  Otalieite,  they  took  leave  of  their  own  comrade 
and  having  invited  on  board  several  of  the  women  with  the  feigiK 
purpose  of  taking  leave,  the  cables  were  cut  and  they  were  cani 
off  to  sea.* 

The  mutinorrs  now  bade  adieu  to  all  the  world,  save  the  few  i: 
dividuals  as.->  ated  with  them  in  exile.  But  where  that  ex 
should  be  passed,  was  yet  undecided  :  the  Marquesas  Islands  we: 
first  mentioned  ;  but  Christian,  on  reading  Ca[)lain  Carteret's  a 
count  of  Pitcairn  Island,  thought  it  better  adapted  to  the  purpo- 
and  accordingly  shaped  a  course  thither.  They  reached  it  i; 
many  days  afterwards ;  and  Christian,  with  one  of  the  seanic 
landed  in  a  little  nook,  which  we  afterwards  found  very  convenie 
for  disembarkation.  They  soon  traversed  the  island  sufliciently 
be  satisfied  that  it  was  exactly  suited  to  their  wishes.  It  posses- 
water,  wood,  a  good  soil,  and  some  fruits.  The  anchorage  in  i 
offing  was  very  bad,  and  landing  for  boats  extremely  hazardoi 
The  mountains  were  so  diflicult  of  access,  and  the  passes  so  ii 
row,  that  they  might  be  maintained  by  a  few  persons  agaiii:st : 
army ;  and  there  were  several  caves,  to  which,  in  case  of  neco-: 
ty,  they  could  retreat,  and  where,  as  long  as  their  provision  hbii 
they  might  bid  defiance  to  their  pursuers.  With  this  intelligoit 
they  returned  on  board,  and  brought  tlic  ship  to  an  anchor  in 
small  bay  on  the  northern  side  of  the  island,  which  I  have  in  co: 
sequence  named  "  B(  jnty  Bay,"  where  every  thing  that  could  ' 
of  utility  was  landed,  and  w'herc  it  was  agreed  to  destroy  the  .^lii; 
either  by  running  her  on  shore,  or  burning  her.     Christian,  Adaiii' 

♦  The  greater  part  of  the  mutineers  who  remained  at  Otaheite,  were  taken  liy ' 
Majesty's  ship  Pandora,  which  was  purposely  sent  out  from  England  after  lieui«; 
ant  Bligh's  return. 


18^^l 

aiid 

wenj 

Qui| 

the 

der 

the 

.    1 

stooJ 

appi 
sliou 


-T 


«- 


folly  of  siicli 

10. 

!cled  therefore 
jceived   by  tht 

During  the  pa, 
5  in  the  ship  i 

of  pennamir 
unishment  wIik 
Jiscovered.  (j 
d  only  a  few  i: 
ed  by  those  w. 
x\  was  an  eiji 
night  be    uscfi, 

Martin,  Adan 
Hiai)  detenniiK 
J  fore,  only  two: 
r  own  conuadt 
I  with  the  feigiu 
;hey  were  canii 

I  save  the  few  i 
where   that  ex. 
esas  Islands  we: 
in  Carteret's  a 
I  to  the  purpo; 
^  reached  it  i; 
of  the  seaiiK 
very  convenie 
nd  sufliciently 
es.     It  posses- 
anchorage  ill  I: 
raely  hazardo' 
3  passes  so  r. 
isons  against , 
case  of  ncri-; 
provision  lusk 
this  intelliijeiK 
an  anchor  in 
I  I  have  in  cii: 
ig  that  could  ! 
estroy  the  slii; 
iristian,  Adaiir 


were  taken  1  y: 
Hand  after  limii. 


l»i5.J 


AMI  lJEEUIN<i  S  STRAIT. 


(il 


and  the  majority,  were  for  the  foiiner  expedient;  but  uliilc!  they 
went  to  the  forepart  of  the  .sliij),  to  execute  tltis  luisinc^s,  Mathew 
Qaintal  set  fire  to  the  carpenter's  store-room.  The  vessel  burnt  to 
the  water's  edge,  and  then  drilled  upon  tiie  rocks,  where  the  remain- 
der of  the  wreck  was  burnt  for  fear  of  discovery.  This  occurred  on 
tb«  2'M  Jaminry,  171)0. 

/,  l^pon  their  first  landing  they  perceived,  by  the  remains  of  several 
4(|bitati()!is,  iiiorais,  and  tliree  or  four  rudely  sculptured  images,  which 
stood  upon  tiie  eminence  oveilooking  the  bay  wiiere  the  ship  was 
ddKroycd,  tliat  the  island  had  deen  previously  inhabited.  Some 
apprehensions  were,  in  coiisecptence,  entertained  lest  the  natives 
sliould  have  secreted  themselves,  and  in  some  unguarded  moment 
make  an  attack  upon  them ;  but  by  degrees  these  fears  subsided, 
and  their  avocations  proceeded  willioul  intcnuption. 

A  suitable  spot  of  ground  for  a  village  was  fixed  upon  with  tiie  ex- 
ception of  which  tlie  island  was  divided  into  e(|ual    ixntioiis,  but  to 
the  exclusion  of  the  poor  blacks,  who  being  only  friends  of  the  sea- 
men, were  not  considered  as  entitled  to  the  same  privileges.    Obliged 
to  lend  their  assistance  to  the  others  in  order  to  procure  a  subsistence, 
they  llius,  from  being  their  friends,  in  the  course  of  time  became 
their  slaves.     No  discontent,  however,  was  manifested,  and  they 
^l^ingly  assisted  in  the  cultivation  of  the  soil.      In  clearing  the  space 
thuit  was  allotted  to  the  village,  a  row  of  trees  was  left  between  it 
apd  the  sea,  for  tiie  purpose  of  concealing  the  houses  from  the 
observation  of  any  vessels  that  might  he  passint;,  and  nothing  was 
allowed  to  be  erected  that  might  in  any  way  attract  attention.     Until 
theie  houses  were  finished,  the  sails  of  the  Jiounty  were  converted 
into  tents;  and  wlien  no  longer  required  for  that  purpose,  became 
ueiy  acceptable  as  clothing.     Thus  supplied  with  all  the  necessaries  of 
life,  and  some  of  its  luxuries,  they  felt  their  condition  comfortable  even 
beyond  their  most  sanguine  exjiectation,  and  every  thing  went  on 
p^^ftceably  and  prosperously  for  about  two  years,  at  the  ex])iration 
of  which,  Williams,  who  had  the  niisfortune  to  lose  his  wife  about  a 
month  after  his  arrival,  by  a  fall  from  a  })recipice  while  collecting 
biixls'  eggs,  became  dissatisfied,  and  threatened  to  leave  the  island 
in  one  of  the  boats  of  the  Bounty,  unless  he  had  another  wife;    an 
unreasonable  request,  as  it  could  not  be  complied  with,  except  at 
the  expense  of  the  happiness  of  one  of  his  companions:  but  Wil- 
liams, actuated  by  selfish  considerations  alone,  persisted  in  his  threat, 
aiid  the  Europeans  not  willing  to  part  with  him,  on  account  of  his 
usefulness  as  an  armourer,  constrained  one  of  the  blacks  to  bestow 
.  his  wife  u|)on  the  applicant.    The  blacks,  outrageous  at  this  second 
act  of  flagrant  injustice,  made  common  cause  with  their  companion, 
tpd  matured  a  plan  of  revenge  upon  their  aggressors,  which,  had  it 
iUcceeded,  would  liave  proved  fatal  lo  all  the  Europeans.     Fortu- 


H 


.') 


I 


'\.i 


I.  \ 


t  -\ 


(ri 


VOYAOK  Tf)  TIIF,  I'ACIFir 


(D(, 


IB: 


Iv  ' 


•M 


n 


(Icr  tliL'ir  iiccoinplicos,  wlio  liad  llod,  wliuh  tlioy  altorwardspci-rori!. 
c(l  by  an  act  of  the  most  odious  trcacliiMy.  Olioo  was  betrayed  fin 
imiidcred  l)y  bis  own  nephew;  and  Talaloo,  after  an  ineflectii 
atteniitt  made  nj)on  by  jioison,  fell  by  the  bands  of  bis  friend  an 
bis  wif(>,  tbe  \er3-  woman  on  whoso  account  all  the  disturhain 
beiiau,  and  whose  injuries  Talaloo  felt  he  was  revenging  in  coniiiiM 
with  bis  own. 

'J'rancinillity  was  by  these  means  restored,  and  preserved  f 
about  two  years;  at  the  expiration  of  which,  dissatisfaction  was  ;ts;;i 
jnand'ested  by  tbe  blacks,  in  consequence  of  oppression  and  ill  tivi! 
ment,  j)rinci|tally  by  Quintal  and  M'CIoy.  INIeetiui;;  with  no  con 
passion  or  redress  from  their  masters,  a  second  plan  to  destroy  tlit' 
oppressors  was  matured,  and,  unfortunately,  too  successfully  exoci: 
ted. 

It  was  agreed  tliat  two  of  tbe  blacks,  Timoa  and  Nehow,  slioir 
desert  from  their  masters,  provide  themselves  with  arms,  and  liii: 
in  tbe  woods,  but  maintain  a  frequent  comnumication  with  the  otiii 
two,  Tetalieite  and  Menalee  ;  and  that  on  a  certain  day  they  sluii; 
attack  and  put  to  death  all  the  Englishmen,  when  at  work  in  tin 
plantations.  Tetalieite,  to  strengthen  the  p.irty  of  the  blacks  on  l!: 
day,  borrowed  a  gun  and  ammunition  of  his  master,  under  the  pr 
tence  of  shooting  hogs,  which  had  become  wild  and  very  numeioii- 
but  instead  of  using  it  in  this  way,  be  joined  his  aocomplices,  an 
with  them  fell  upon  Williams  and  shot  hiin.  INIartin,  who  was 
no  great  distance,  beard  the  report  of  tiie  musket,  and  exclaiiiU' 
"  Well  done  !  we  shall  have  a  glorious  feast  to-day  !"  supposing  tli; 
a  bog  had  been  shot.  Tiie  party  jiroceeded  from  Williams'  towai 
Christian's  i)lantation,  where  Menalee,  the  other  black,  was  atwof' 
with  Mills  and  M'Coy  ;  and,  in  order  tiiat  the  suspicions  of  the  wliitt^ 
might  not  be  excited  by  tbe  report  they  had  heard,  requested  Mi! 
to  allow  him  (Menalee)  to  assist  them  in  bringing  home  the  lio. 


n|2;ouioiisly  coi 
lie  words  U(|, 

)'         rill 

iMiiii.  Jhi'ii 
Ilis  i^iin  mid  wv 
wint;  tlic'iM  ill 
rfi'ionci;  iMidca 
oftlieiu  (Olii, 
the  coiispiiiii", 
,  which  lie  h' 
ever,  iniin;iiiii 
derided  his  u 

liis  accomplii 
eniaininghhid 
roinising  to  im, 
M'wards  perfoii 
vas  betrayed  m 
■r  an  inelU'ciii 
f  liis  friend  ;ir 

the  disturhaiii 
iging  in  coniiiic 

[1  preserved  f 

faction  was  ;ii;;i 

sion  and  ill  Hva 

liz;  with  no  cnn 

to  destroy  tin 

essfully  execi 

\ehow,  slioii 
rms,  and  liii: 
with  the  otiii 


1625.) 


Avo  nr.F.niNc  s  smviT. 


M 


(la 


y  they  si 


loi:. 


work  in  tin 
e  Idacks  on  lii 
miller  the  pr 
iciy  nunieiou- 
omplices,  ar, 
,   who  was 
nd  exclaiiiu" 
supposinsitli; 
illianis'  towai 
k,  was  atwoF' 
IS  of  the  wliiu-. 
cqnested  Mi! 
louie  the  lio. 


they  [-irtendcd  to  have  killed.  Mills  as^reed  ;  and  the  four,  heiii!; 
united,  pioreeded  to  Christian,  win:  was  workini;  at  his  yain-plol, 
and  shot  him.  Tims  fell  a  man,  who,  iVuin  hcinn  the  reimted  liii-;- 
leaderoftlie  iimliiiy,  has  olitained  an  imenviable  celebrity,  and 
whose  crime,  if  any  thinij;  can  excuse  mutiny,  may  perhaps  be  con- 
sidered as  in  some  detrree  palliated,  by  the  tyramiy  which  led  to  its 
eonimissioii.  M'Coy,  hearini;  his  t^roims,  observed  to  Mills,  ''there 
•^•g  surely  some  person  dyinti; ;"  but  Mills  replied,  >>  It  is  only 
"Sfenmast' (Christian's  wife)  callinj:;  her  children  to  dinner."  The 
^te  men  beinti;  yet  too  stronj^  for  the  blacks  to  risk  a  conMict  with 
them,  it  was  necessary  to  concert  a  plan,  in  order  to  separate  IMillsand 
M'Coy.  Two  of  them  accordinu;ly  secreted  themselves  in  M'Coy's 
house,  and  Tetaheite  ran  and  told' him  that  the  two  blacks  who  had 
deserted  were  stealinp;  thinu;s  out  of  his  house.  M'Coy  n.stantly 
hastened  to  detect  them,  anil  on  enterini;  was  fired  at  ;  but  the  ball 
passed  him.  M'Coy  immediately  comnumieated  the  alarm  to  Mills, 
and  advised  him  to  seek  shelti-r  in  the  woods  ;  but  Mills,  beiiiii  quite 
satisfied  that  one  of  the  blacks  whom  he  had  made  his  friend  wi),ild 
not  sufler  him  to  be  killed,  determined  to  remain.  IVI'Coy,  less 
confident,  ran  in  search  of  Christian,  but  finding:;  him  dead,  joined 
Quintal  (who  was  already  apprised  of  the  work  of  destruction,  and 
had  sent  his  wife  to  give  the  alarm  to  the  others),  and  Hed  with 
him  to  the  woods. 

Mills  had  scarce!)  been  left  alone,  when  the  two  blacks  fell  ujion 
hun,  and  he  became  a  victim  to  his  misplr.ced  confidence  in  the  fi- 
delity of  his  friend.  INlartin  and  Brown  w  ere  next  separately  mur- 
dered by  Menaleo  and  Tenina  ;  Menalee  effecting  whh  a  maul  what 
the  musket  had  left  unfinished.  Tenina,  it  is  said,  wished  to  save 
the  life  of  Brown,  and  fired  at  him  with  powder  only,  desiring  him, 
at  the  same  time,  to  fall  as  if  killed  ;  but,  unfortunately  rising  too 
soon,  the  other  black,  Menalee,  shot  him. 

Adams  was  first  apprised  of  his  danger  by  Quintal's  wife,  who, 
in  hurrying  through  his  plantation,  asked  why  he  was  working  at 
such  a  time  ?  Not  understanding  the  ([iiestion,  but  seeing  her 
alarmed,  he  followed  her,  and  was  almost  immediately  met  by  the 
blacks,  whose  appearance  exciting  .suspicion,  he  made  his  escape 
into  the  woods.  After  remaining  three  or  four  he  is,  Adams,  think- 
ing all  was  quiet,  stole  to  his  yam-plot  for  a  sujiply  of  provisions; 
his  movements  however  did  not  escape  the  vigilance  of  the  blacks, 
who  attacked  and  shot  him  through  the  body,  the  ball  entering  at 
his  right  shoulder,  and  passing  out  through  his  throat.  He  fell 
upon  his  side,  and  was  instantly  assailed  by  one  of  them  w  itli  the 
butt  end  of  the  gun  ;  but  he  parried  the  blows  at  the  expense  of  a 
broken  finger.  Tetaheite  then  placed  his  gun  to  his  side,  but  it 
fortunately  missed  fire  twice.     Adams,  recovering  a  little  from  the 


u 


m 


'1 

w 

1^ 


1  :y 


r "  ^'  m 


i  f  ■''  i        4ii 


/'«> 


■  i 


lf'1 


. 


G4 


VOVACJF.   TO   Tin:    PACIFJC 


f/)„ 


sliork  of  llie  wound,  spip.nL:;  on  his  legs,  tmd  ran  oil' with  as  iini, 
s|)('.  (1  as  In;  was  ii!>K\  anc  foitunalcly  oiilslripiaul  his  pnrsiUMs,  u 
si't'in;j;  him  likely  to  escape,  oltcTetl  him  jiroteclion  if  he  wo\ild  sii, 
Adams,  much  exhausted  by  his  wound,  readily  accepted  tlKiirti'in, 
and  wi,s  conducti'd  to  (Mi.istian's  house,  where  he  was  kindly  ti. 
cd.  Here  this  day  of  bloodshed  ended,  leaving  only  Tour  Kn^li, 
men  alive  out  of  nine.  It  was  a  day  of  om:nicip;uion  to  the  bhui, 
who  were  now  masters  of  the  island,  anil  of  huniiliation  and  r(;til!; 
lion  to  the  whites. 

Young,  who  was  n  great  favourite  v\ith  the  women,  and  lnid.r 
ring  this  attack,  been  secre'ed  by  them,  was  now  also  takcii 
("inisfian's  house.  Tlie  other  two,  iM'C'oy  and  QuiiUal,  who  1; 
always  been  the  great  ojjpressorsofthe  blacks,  escaped  to  the  iiim 
tains,  where  they  supported  themselves  upon  the  jjroduce  of  i 
g.'f)un(l  about  them. 

Tlie  party  in  the  village  lived  in  tolerable  tranijudity  for  almir 
\V(!ek  ;  at  the  expiiation  of  which,  the  men  of  colour  began  to  i|ii 
rel  about  the  right  of  choosing  the  women  whose  nusbands  had  Ik 
killed  ;  which  eniled  i-i  IMenalee's  shooting  'J'nnoa  as  he  sal  hv ; 
side  of  Yoiuig's  w  ife,  accompanying  her  song  wilh  bis  tlute.  Tii,; 
not  dying  innnediatcly,  iMenalee  reloaded,  and  deliberately  d 
patched  him  by  a  second  discharge,  lie  afterwards  attacked  Tr: 
lieite,  who  was  condoling  wilh  Young's  wife  for  the  loss  of  her: 
vourite  black,  and  would  ha'  e  murdered  him  also,  but  for  the  iiii 
ference  of  the  women.  Afraie  to  remain  longer  in  the  village, 
escaped  to  the  mouiUains  and  joined  (Quintal  arJ  j\l"Coy.  w: 
though  glad  of  his  services,  at  first  recitwed  him  with  suspici 
Tliis  great  accpiisition  to  their  force  enabled  them  to  biddefiand 
the  opposite  piaty  ;  and  to  show  their  strength,  and  that  they  \m 
provided  vvith  muskets,  they  appeared  on  a  ridge  ofniouiit;ii 
within  sight  of  the  village,  and  fired  a  volley  which  sc^  alarmed  i 
otiiers  tliat  they  sent  Adams  to  say,  if  they  would  kill  the  lilai 
man,  Menalee.  and  return  to  the  village,  they  would  all  Yh)  liii ; 
again.  The  terms  were  so  far  coni|)lied  wilh  that  ^lenalet'  v 
slut;  but,  ap|)rehensive  of  the  sincerity  of  the  remaining  hiari 
tliey  refused  to  return  while  they  were  alive. 

Adams  says  it  was  not  long  before  the  widows  of  the  white  i 
so  (I(!eply  deplored  iheir  loss,  that  they  determined  to  reveii'j;e  i' 
death,  and  concerted  a  plan  to  murder  the  only  two  remainini:  m 
of   colour.      Another   account,  communicated    by   the   islander^. 
that  it  was  only  part  of  a  plot  f()rmed  at  the  same  time  that  Me 
lee   was  murdered,    which   could  not   be    put  in  execution  heloi 
Howev-er  this  may  be,  it  was  cijually  fatal  to  the  poor  blacks.     T  » 
arrangement  was,  that  Susan  sliouKI  murder  one  of  lli(>m, 'I'elaJK'' 
while  lie  was  sleeping  by  the  side  of  his  favourite  ;  and  that  Veu 


18'. 

shoj 
othj 
fell 
his 
and  I 
dea(| 
III 


t 


f/)„ 

oir  willi  as  nui. 
liirf  pursuors,  «; 
1  if  Iic3  would  Ml. 
cptcd  tli(;irt!'ri„ 
!  was  kiiullv  til 
r.ly  ibur  Kiil;!;. 
lion  to  tlio  liliui 
iationand  i(;tnl 

iicn,  and  Imd. : 
low  also  taken ■ 
Quintal,  wlio  1; 
\\)va\  to  the  1)101 
|)rodiico  of  1 

(Liility   for  alioir 

nir  bewail  to  i|ii 

lusbands  had  In 

I  as  he  sal,  hv  \ 

liis  thite.     Tn, 

(kdiberatoly  li 

•ds  attacked' T.! 

ihe  loss  of  \wr: 

but  for  the  iiii 

n   the  \illa^('.' 

'Ci    INl'Coy,  W; 

11  with  susiiici, 

to  bid  defiaiici 

d  that  ;hey  \\< 

t!;e  of  iiioiiiitai. 

so  alaniicd  i 

hi  kill  the  111 

lid  all  be  fridi 

lal  3[eiial(i'  v, 

Muoinin:::;  hlar: 

I  the  while  v.. 

to  roven<!;(>  i!  ■. 
reinainiiii':  ii 

he   islaiidci-. 
line  that    !Mi 

vcnitioii  licl'ii 
111"  blacks.     T  , 


1625.] 


ANn  bf.khino  s  sthaft. 


or, 


lein. 


claiic 


should  at  the  same  instant,  upon  a  sii:;nal  beinp;  c;iven,  shoot  the 
other,  IN'eliow.  The  unsuspectini;;  Tetaheite  retired  as  usual,  and 
fell  by  the  blow  of  an  oxe  ;  tiie  other  was  lookiic^at  Y^Mini;  loadiiii^ 
his  gun,  which  he  supposed  was  for  the  purpose  of  shootini;  hogs, 
and  requested  hiin  to  put  in  a  good  charge,  when  be  received  the 
deadly  contents. 

In  this  manner  the  existence  of  the  last  of  the  men  of  colour  ter- 
Igttuited,  who,  though  treacherous  and  revengeful,  iiad,  it  is  feared, 
"^ffmu(di  cause  I'or  complaint.  The  acconi])lishment  of  tliis  fatal 
scheme  \\-as  immediately  communicated  to  the  two  absentees,  and 
their  return  soficitcd.  But  so  many  instances  of  tr(>acbery  had  oc- 
curred, that  they  would  not  believe  the  report,  though  delivc^-cd  by 
Adftnis  hiiiisell','  until  the  band,;  .nd  beads  of  the  decca.'^ed  were 
produced,  which  being  done,  they  returned  to  the  village.  This 
eventful  day  was  the.'Jd  October,  17f).'J.  There  wore  now  left  upon 
tho  island,  Adams,  Young,  M'Coy,  and  Quintal,  ten  women,  and 
some  children.  Two  months  after  this  period,  Young  commenced 
a  manuscriiil  journal,  which  affords  a  good  insight  into  the  state  of 
the  island,  and  the  occupations  of  the  settlers.  From  it  we  learn, 
that  they  lived  ])caceal)ly  together,  building  their  bouses,  fencing 
in  and  cultivating  their  grounds,  fishing,  and  catching  birds,  andcon- 
structin'?:  jiits  for  the  purpose  of  entrapjiing  hogs,  which  bad  become 
very  numerous  and  wild,  as  well  as  injurious  to  the  yam-cro])S. 
The  only  discontent  ajipears  to  have  been  among  the  women,  who 
lived  promiscuously  with  the  men,  fre(|iicntly  changing  their  abode. 

Young  says  March  12,  1794,  "Going  over  to  borrow  a  rake,  to 
rake  the  dust  ofFmygromid,  I  saw  Jenny  having  a  .skull  in  her 
haad :  T  asked  her  whose  it  was  ?  and  wa.s  told  it  was  Jack  Wil- 
liams's. I  desired  it  might  be  buried  :  the  women  who  were  with 
Jenny  gav(>  me  for  answer,  it  should  not.  I  said  it  diould;  and  de- 
manded it  accordingly.  I  was  asked  the  reason  why  I,  in  particular, 
should  insist  on  such  a  thing,  when  the  rest  of  the  white  men  did 
not?  1  said,  if  they  gave  them  leave  to  keep  the  skulls  above 
gromid,  I  did  not.  Accordingly  when  I  saw  IM'Coy,  Smith,  and 
Mat.  Quintal,  1  actpiainted  them  with  it,  and  .aid,  I  thought  that  if 
the  girls  did  not  agree  to  gi\e  up  the  heads  of  the  five  white  men 
in  a  peaceable  maimer,  they  ought  to  be  taken  by  force,  and  buried." 
About  this  time  the  women  appear  to  have  been  much  dissatisfied; 
and  Young's  journal  declares  that,  '"■  since  the  massacre,  it  has  been 
the  desire  of  the  greater  part  of  them  to  get  some  conveyance,  to 
ena])le  them  to  kiavt;  the  island.*'  This  feeling  continued,  and  on 
tile  I'llli  April.  ITO'I,  was  so  strongly  urged,  that  the  men  be'j;an  to 
build  them  a  boat  ;  but  wanting  planks  and  nails,  Jenny,  who  now 
^resides  at  Otabeite,  in  her  zeal  tore  up  the  boards  of  her  bouse,  and 


P 


111 


,;'■ 
M 


1 


m 


m 


I  at) 


land  that  Y 


VOi 


% 


(Ml'' 


()() 


VOYAffE  TO  THE   PACIFIC 


[I}(C 


1825. 


\)   ' 


4 


.1 


i:«^ 


i 


\n 


omleavoureH,  th(niu:Ii  without  success,  to  persuade  some  others  to  fo]. 
low  her  example. 

On   the   13th   Akt»tyi.iif.  following,  the  vessel  was  finished,  and  or 
the  15th  .she  was  Ian-.        !  :  but,  us  Young  says,  ''according  to  ex. 
peclation  she  uf>set,     iiin;  nt  was  n»ost  fortunate  for  them   that  slij 
did  so:  for  had  fhey  Uunrlied  out  upon  the  ocean,  where  could  the, 
liave  g(i>ne  ?    or  »hat  i^^ould   a  few   .^I'orant  women  have  dono  k 
iHolvf^-.  (h'i ft i ri'i'  up()»'i!  the  waves,  but  ultimately  have  fallen  j 
<'c  to  their  folly  ?     iWowe.'er,  the  fate  of  the  vessel  was  a  crea! 
di>;?i).jjointment.  and   tliey  c*.ont'irtued   mt»ch   dissatisfied   with  their 
conrtir^Jion  ;  probaljly  not  witl('K«»t  .some  reason,  as  they  were  kept  ii'' 
grf';>t    .^*l)ordination,  and  weiie  freifuerrtly  beaten  by  IM'Coy  an; 
Quima'l.  rho  appear  to  have  beei:i  of  ven  f|uarrels()me  dispositions:. 
Quintal  i«tj?articu]ar,  who  proposed  •  <k>tk>laugh,  joke,or  givcaii 
thing  to  anft'  of  the  girls." 

On  the  J6<li  August  they  dug  a  giwiv  and  Imried  the  bones  t: 
the  murdered  people:  and  ofi  October  <J<1.  ITiM,  they  celelmitu 
the  nnu'der  of  the  black  men  at  Quintal*  house.  On  the  Hi 
November  a  conspiracy  of  the  women  lo  kill  the  white  men  intlieii 
sleep  was  discovered  ;  upon  which  they  were  all  seized,  and  a  (li>. 
closiu'C  ensued  ;  but  no  punishment  appears  to  have  been  inflict.; 
upou  them,  in  consequence  of  their  promising  to  conduct  themsehi- 
properly,  and  never  again  to  give  any  cause  "even  lo  ...-p  ^ctdiei, 
behaviour.''  However,  though  they  were  pardoned,  1  ^ung  oli. 
serve';,  "We  did  not  forget  their  conduct  ;  and  it  was  agreed  aiuon; 
us,  cnat  the  first  female  who  misbehaved  should  be  put  to  death, 
and  this  ))unishment  was  to  be  repeated  on  each  offence  until  w 
could  di.scovcr  the  real  intentions  of  the  women."  Yomig  appear^ 
to  have  suflered  much  from  mental  ))erturbalion  in  consequence  c: 
these  distm-bances  ;  and  observes  of  himself  on  the  two  followin. 
days,  that  "ho  w      bothered  and  idle." 

The  suspicions  of  the  men  induced  them,  on  the  15th,  to  con- 
ceal two  muskets  in  t''^  bush,  for  the  use  of  any  person  who  niisil, 
be  so  fortunate  as  to  escape,  in  the  event  of  an  attack  being  made 
On  the  30th  November,  the  women  again  collected  and  attackn 
them  ;  but  no  lives  were  lost,  and  they  returned  on  being  once  moiti^ 
pardoned,  but  were  again  threatened  with  death  the  next  time  tlioy|r 
misbehaved.     Threats  thus  repeatedly  made,  and  as  often  uncx  • 
cuted,  as  might  be  expected,  soon  lost  their  effect,  and  the  woim    * 
formed  a   |>arty  whenever  their  displeasure  was  excited,  and  h 
themselves  in  the  unfiequented  parts  of  the  island,  carefully  provid- 
ing themselves  with  fire-arms,      (n  this  manner  the  men  were  ke|ii 
in  continual  suspense,  dreading  the  rosidt  of  each   (risturbancc.  a- 
the  numerical  strength  of  the  women  was  much  greater  than  tin     4 
own. 


f 


e  others  to  fol. 

lislied,  and  or 
cording  to  tx, 
liein  that  sli,; 
ere  couUl  the; 
have  dono  !,• 
Iiave  fallen  j 
sel  was  a  n;ica' 
J(l  witli  Uio^ 
were  kc\n  i 
i\I-Coy  an. 
)  dispositioiiv  . 
:e,  or  give  an; 

the  bones  o; 

■y  celel)i'atir 

On  tlie  Ih:  __ 

I  men  in  ihei, 

rl,  and  a  di-. 

een    infllcici 

H  thenisclvt. 

tit-j).>cttiiei[ 

,    1  ^.iing  oli. 

gi'eed  anion: 

lit  to  death , 

k'o  until  we 

mg  apjicap 

equence  c: 

"o  followin. 

•th,  to  mil- 
who  niid; 
eing  made 
ul  attackw 
2;  once  more  1^ 
ttinie  tlipyP 
ten  uncxc- 
the  woiiii:;  ^ 

and  li, 
lly 


K 


pi'OVIll- 

wci'c  ki'ji; 
rhaiifc.  ;i- 
ihan  till" 


1825.] 


AND  BEERINf)  S   STRAIT. 


67 


;  On  the  4th  of  May,  1795,  two  canoe-  were  begun,  and  in  two 
days  completed.  These  were  used  for  ushing,  in  which  employ- 
ment the  people  were  frequently  successful,  supplying  themselves 
with  rock-fish  and  large  mackarcl.  On  the  27ti)  ol"  December  fol- 
lowing, they  were  greatly  alarmed  by  the  appearance  of  a  ship 
lOlose  ni  with  the  island.  Fortunately  for  them,  there  was  a  tre- 
jpendous  surf  upon  the  rocks,  the  weather  wore  a  very  threatening 
pect,  and  the  ship  stood  to  the  S.  E.,  and  at  noon  was  out  of 
ght.  Young  ai)per.rs  to  have  thought  this  a  providential  escape, 
«s  the  sea  for  a  week  after  was  "  smoother  than  they  had  ever 
recollected  it  since  their  arrival  on  the  island." 

So  liule  occurred   in  the  year  1796,  that  one  page  records  the 
whole  of  the  events  ;  and  throughout  the  following  y?ar  there  are 
but  three  incidents  worthy  of  notice.     The  first,  their  endeavour 
*o  procure  a  quantity  of  meat  for  salting  ;  the  next,  their  attempt 
lo  make  syrup  from  the   tee-plant  (drncxvna  icrminalis)  and  sugar- 
cane; and  the  third,  a  serious  accident  that  happened  to  M'Coy, 
who  fell  from  a  cocoa-nut  tree  and  hurt   his  right   thigh,  sprained 
Iboth  his  ancles   and  wounded   his  side.     The   occupations  of  the 
Itoen  continued  simil.ir  to  those   already  related,  occasionally  enliv- 
ened by  visits  to  the  o])posite  side  of  the  island.     They  appear  to 
liave  been  more  sociable  ;  dining  frequently  at  each  other's  houses, 
and  contributing  more  to  the  comfort  of  the   women,  who,  on  their 
^|)art,  gave  no  ground  for  uneasiness.     There  was  also  a  mutual  ac- 
■conniiodation  amongst  them  in  regard  to  provisions,  of  which  a  reg- 
ular account  was  taken.     If  one  person  was  successful  in  hu  iljng, 
he  lent  the  others  as  much   meat  as  they  required,  to  be  repaid  at 
leisure  ;  and  the  same  occurred  with  yams,  tares,  &ic.,  so  that  they 
lived  in  a  very  domestic  and  tranquil  state. 

It  unfortunately  happened  that  M'Coy  had  been  employed  in  a 
distilleiy  in  Scotland  ;  and  being  very  much  ad  ,M^d  to  liquor,  he 
tried  an  experiment  with  the  tee-root,  and  on  the  ^Olh  April  1798, 
succeeded  in  producing  a  bottle  of  ardent  s  ■••it.  ^J'his  success  in- 
duced his  companion,  Mathew  Quintal,  to  "alter  his  kettle  into  a 
still,"  a  contrivance  which  unfortunately  succeeded  too  well,  as  fre- 
quent intoxication  was  the  coii.se(|uence,  with  M'Coy  in  particular 
upon  whom  at  length  It  produced  fits  of  delirium,  in  one  of  which, 
he  threw  himself  from  a  clifT  and  was  killed.  The  melancholy 
fate  of  this  man  created  so  forcible  an  impression  on  the  remaining 
few,  that  they  resolved  never  again  to  touch  spirits ;  and  Adams, 
I  have  every  reason  to  Itclieve,  to  the  day  of  his  death  kept   his 

\"0W. 

The  journal  finishes  nearly  at  the  period  of  M'Coy 's  death, 
which  is  not  related  in  it:  but  ue  learned  from  Adams,  that  about 
1799  Quintal   lost  his  wife  by  a  fall   from  the  clilf  while  in  search 


>L  > 


ki      > 


1^  ^ 


i 


ill!" 


fe?  I 


li  <^ 


>  4. 

'  ■(  ■ 


08 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Ih 


0 


of  birds'  eggs  ;  that  lie  grew  discontented,  and,  though  there  up, 
several  (lisjiosahle  women  on  tlie  ishind,  and  he  had  ah'eady  expiMif.,,, 
ced  the  I'alal  eliects  of  a  similar  demand,  nothing  would  satisfy  lij, 
but  the  wife  of  one  of  his  companions.  Of  course  neither  of  ihti 
felt  inclined  to  accede  to  this  unreasonable  indulgence  ;  aiul  |;, 
sought  an  o})i)ortunity  of  putting  them  both  to  death.  Ho  wa 
fortunately  Ibiled  in  his  first  attempt,  but  swore  he  would  repeal  |: 
Adams  and  Young,  having  uo  doubt  ho  would  follow  up  his  resoli, 
tion,  and  fearing  lit-  might  bo  more  successful  in  his  next  attoiin,; 
came  to  the  conclusion,  ihat  their  own  lives  were  not  safe  while  I 
was  in  existence,  and  that  they  were  justified  in  putting  him  i 
death,  which  they  did  with  an  axe. 

Such  was  the  melancholy  fate  of  seven  of  the  leading  mutineer 
who  escaped  from  justice  only  to  add  murder  to  their  form, 
crimes ;  foi'  though  some  of  them  may  not  have  actually  embiui 
their  hands  in  the  blood  of  their  fellow- jrcaturcs,  yet  all  were  ao 
cessary  to  the  deed. 

As  Christian  and  Young  were  descended  from  respectalii, 
parents,  and  had  received  educations  suitable  to  their  birth,  it  niii;i., 
be  supposed  that  they  felt  their  altered  and  degraded  situation  imic 
more  than  the  seamen,  who  were  comparatively  well  off;  but  if  so. 
Adams  says,  they  had  the  good  sense  to  conceal  it,  as  not  a  siiidt 
murmur  or  regret  escaped  them;  on  the  contrary.  Christian  wa;  al- 
ways cheerful,  and  his  example  w-as  of  the  greatest  service  ii; 
exciting  his  com])anions  to  labour.  He  was  naturally  of  a  lm|!. 
py,  ingenuous  disposition,  and  won  the  good  opinion,  and  n,- 
pect  of  all  those  who  served  under  him ;  which  cannot  be  bel- 
ter exemplified  than  by  his  maintaining,  under  circumstances  i; 
great  perplexity,  the  respect  and  regard  of  all  who  were  associain 
with  him  up  to  the  hour  of  his  death;  and  evf  n  at  the  period  o 
our  visit,  Adams,  in  speaking  of  him,  never  omitted  to  say  '-  M 
Christ  ian.'' 

Adams  and  Young  were  now  the  sole  survivors  out  of  the  fit- 
teen  males  that  landed   upon   the  island.     They  were  both,  niiii 
more  piuticultuly  Young,  of  a  serious  turn  of  mind  ;  and  it  woul-^ 
have  bee;'  wonderful,  after  the  many  dreadful  scenes  at  which  tlu\j| 
had  assisted,  if  the  solit'ide   and  trancjuility   that  ensued  had  iio.f 
disposed  them  to  repentance.     During  Christian's  lifetime  they  Ini'lk 
only  once  read  the  ciiurcli  service,  but  since  his  decease  this  had 
been  regularly  done  on  every  Sunday.    They  now,  however,  resohci' 
to  have  morning  and  evening  family   j)rayers,  to  add  afternoon  ser- 
vice to  liie  duty  of  the  S;\l)l)aih,  and  to  train  up  their  own  childini 
and  those  of  their  late  unfortunate  companions,  in  |)iety  and  \iitiii 
In  the   execution  of  this  resolution,  Young's  education  iiiahli 
him  lo  be  of  the  greatest  assistance:   hut  he   was  ii«'t  lonu;  siiiHix 


1825. 

to  suii 

he  ha| 

year ; 

vivor 

The 

was  fo| 

ever, 

nuncdl 

hoi)e  \ 

His 

propitj 

there 

had  III 

have  ; 

possib 

lavora 

By  ad 

which 

less, 

educat 

exam 

ifcen, 

hours 

'j^ositio 

dren  al 

Adams 

quiries 

acquire 

.fcterm 

elated 

Adam: 


ough  tiiere  wo, 
Iready  cx\Hn-u, 

Ould   SUti.sly  |||, 

nuitJior  ol"  iln^j 
§ence  ;  and  |. 
icatl).  Ho  vl 
would  repeat  i; 
w  up  J)i,s  rcsoli. 
^  next  atteiiij,, 
)t  safe  wliilo  I, 
putting  liiui  I 

ding  miuincci. 
o  tJieir  fojDi, 
tually  eniljiui., 
et  all  were  ac. 

m  respectaW, 
Ijirthjit  iiii^;, 
situation  iimc 
oii';  but  if  H, 
as  not  a  siiiirl^ 
H'istiaii  \va;  ;i|. 
ist  service  it 
'j'y  of  a  |jii|!. 
ion,  and  a,. 
inuiot  |j(j  bci. 
'uni5,tance.s  i 
31-6  associahV 
tlie  period  1/  . 
to  .say  '•  M   ' 

It  of  the  fii- 
i'e  botii,  nil,; 
inid  it  woiilii 
L  wiiicli  llii'v 
led  Ii;i(|  11,' 
no  tlu'y  lia,!  . 
ise  this  id*' 
t  er,  resohci! 
teniooii  SI- 

WM   (llildldl 

iiiid  viriiic 
oil   ('iiahkil  ' 

|)llii   Sllli;  IV;! 


1825.  j 


AND    BEEKING  S    STRAIT. 


69 


i 


to  survive  liis  repentance.  An  asthmatic  complaint,  under  which 
he  had  for  some  time  labored,  terminated  his  existence  about  a 
year  alter  the  death  of  Quintal,  and  Adams  was  left  the  sole  sur- 
vivor of  the  misguided  and  unfortunate  mutineers  of  the  Bounty. 
TTie  I0.SS  of  his  last  coinpanion  was  a  great  affliction  to  him,  and 
was  for  some  time  most  severely  felt.  It  was  a  catastrophe,  how- 
ever, that  more  than  ever  dis})osed  him  to  repentance,  and  deter- 
mined him  to  execute  the  pious  resolution  he  had  made,  in  the 
hope  of  expiating  his  offences. 

His  reformation  could  not,  perhaps,  have   taken  place  at  a  more 
propitious  moment.     Out  of  nineteen  children  upon   the  island, 
there  were  several  between  the  ages  of  seven  and  nine  years  ;  who, 
had  tliey  been  longer  suffered  to  follow  their  own  inclinations,  might 
have  acquired  habits  wjiicli  it  would  have  been  difficult,  if  not  im- 
possible, for  Adams  to  eradicate.     The  moment  was  therefore  most 
ftvorable  for  his  design,  and  his  laudable  exertions  were   attended 
%y  advantages  both  to  the  object'  of  his  care  and  to  his  own  mind, 
^hich  surpassed  his  most  sanguine   expectations.      He,  neverthe- 
ipss,  had  an  arduous  task  to  perform.     Besides  the  children  to  be 
^Iwucated,  the  Otaheitan  women  were  to  be  converted;  and  as  the 
i^xample  of  the   parents  had  a  powerful  influence  or  r  theii  chil- 
dren, he  resolved  to  make  them  his  first  care.     Here  also  his  la- 
%)urs  succeeded ;  the  Otaheitans  were  naturally  of  a  tractable  dis- 
'Irosition,  and  gave  hun  less  trouble  than  he  anticipated:    the  chil- 
dren also   ac(pnred  such  a  thirst  afto-  scriptural  knowledge,  that 
Adams  in  a  ?hort  time  had  little  else  to  do  than  to  answer  their  in- 
quiries and  put  them   in  the   right  way.      As  they  grew  up,  they 
acquired  fixed  habits  of  morality  and  piety;  thei:' colony  improved; 
Bitermarriagcs  occurred:  and  they  now  fori\i  ahap|)y  and  well-reg- 
lllatcd  society,  the   merit  of  which,  in  a   great  degree,  belongs  to 
?Adams,  and  tends  to  redeem  the  former  errors  of  his  life. 


^1 


1. 


nf 


m  i ' 


.  i 


I. 


70 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


CHAPTER  IV. 


Bounty  Bay — Observatory  landed — Manners,  Customs,  Occupations,  Amuscinon;: 
&c.  of  tlie  Natives — Villag-e — Description  of  the  Island — Its  produce — Mania-. 
of  Adams — Barge  hoisted  out — Departure — General  description. 

Having  detailed  the  particulars  of  the  mutiny  in  the  Bounty,  an 
the  fate  of  the  most  notorious  of  tlie  ringleaders,  and  havir, 
brought  the  history  of  Pitcairn  Island  down  to  the  present  perioi: 
I  shall  return  to  the  party  who  had  assembled  on  board  the  ship  \ 
greet  us  on  our  arrival. 

The  Blossom  was  so  different,  or  to  use  the  expression  of  on 
visiters,  "  so  rich,"  compared  with  the  other  ships  they  had  seen.' 
that  they  were  constantly  afraid  of  giving  or  committing  some  inji 
ry,   and   would  not  even  move  without   first  asking    permissioi 
This  diffidence  gave  us  full  occupation  for  some  time,  as   our  resi 
less  visitei     anxious  to  see  every  thing,  seldom   directed   their  ai 
teution  long  to  any   particular  object,  or  remained  in  one  positin 
or  place.     Having  no  latches  to  their  doors,  they  were  ignorant 
the  manner  of  opening  ours  ;    and  we  were  constantly  attacked  i, 
all  sides  with   "  Please  may  I  sit  down  or  get  up,  or  go  out  of  ili 
cabin  r"  or,  "  Please  to  open  or  shut  the  door."      Their  applica- 
tions were,  however,  made  with  such   good  nature   and   simplidi, 
that  it  was  impossible  not  to  feel  the  greatest  })leasur''  in   pnyii:. 
attention  to  them.     They  very  soon   learnt  the   christian  nainc  < 
every  officer  in  the  ship,  which  they  ah\ays   used  in   conversaii 
instead  of  the  surname,  and  wherever  a  similarity  to  their  own.  oi-* 
attached  liiemselves   to   that  person  as  a   matter 


[A,        |§25.1 


boats, 

ftnied  I 
want  sil 
Paul's 
ibiind  1 1 
cKf^s  all 
ed  evcrj 
welcomj 
distance! 
landers 
outside 
fkinge  til 
all  acccf 
We  l) 
passage 
we  trust 
m  their 
paid  l)y 
nail  Yo 


iiey 


l)ei 


course. 


It  was  many  hours  after  they  came  on  board  before   the  ship  I 
could  get   near  the   island,  during  wliicli   time   they   so  ingratiutd* 
themselves  witii  us   that   we  felt  the  greatest  desire  to   visit   tlini 
houses  ;  and  rather  than  pass  another  night  at  sea  we  put  olf  in  iIkS 

*  It  wad  so  IvUjS  since  the  visit  of  tlie  Britou  aud  Tapus,  tliat  they  had  foryuliuj 
iheir  appearance. 


[^"        1^25.1 


AND  BEERINO  S  STRAIT. 


71 


ins,  Amuscinoii; 
t>d  lice— Mania; 


3  Bounty,  an 
1,  and  havir 
resent  poiio. 
rd  the  sliipi 

ression  of  oi; 

3y  had  seen,' 

ng  some  inji 

;    permissiof 

,  as   our  l•e^! 

!ted   their  a; 

one  positio; 

e  ignoraiii  - 

^  attacked  i: 

o  out  of  ill: 

leir  appllc,;. 

siinplicii; 

in   payii:. 

an  name  c 

fonvcrsaii: 

leir  own  in' 

a   matter  i 


id 


re  tlie  ^In, 
)  inp;ratiiitr 
)  visit  ilk'i: 
lit  olFiii  ilii 

had  foigotu.. 


boats  tho'igh  at  n  considerable  distance  h"om  the  land,  and  accom- 
Mpied  them  to  the  shore.  We  followed  our  guides  past  a  rugged 
IKUnt  suriiiouiited  by  tall  spiral  rocks,  known  to  the  islanders  as  St. 
Pljul's  rocks,  into  a  spacious  iron-bound  bay,  where  the  Bounty 
Iqlind  lier  last  anchorage.  In  this  bay,  which  is  bounded  by  lofty 
"  s  almost  inaccessible,  it  was  proposed  to  land.  Thickly  branch- 
evcrtireens  skirt  the  base  of  these  hills,  and  in   summer  afford  a 

f  Iconic  retreat  from  the  rays  of  an  almost  vertical  sun.  In  the 
tance  are  seen  several  high  pointed  rocks  which  the  pious  high- 
landers  have  named  after  the  most  zealous  of  the  Apostles,  and 
outside  of  them  is  v  square  basaltic  islet.  Formidable  breakers 
fringe  the  coast,  and  seem  to  present  an  insurmountable  barrier  to 
all  access. 

We  here  brought  our  boats  to  an  anchor,  in  consequence  of  the 
passage  between  the  sunken  rocks  being  much  too  intricate,  and 
we  trusted  ourselves  to  the  natives,  who  landed  us,  two  v*  a  time, 
Bjf  their  w'hale-boat.  The  difficulty  of  landing  was  iiiore  than  re- 
Ulid  by  the  friendly  reception  we  met  with  on  the  beach  from  Han- 
flilh  Young,  a  very  interesting  young  woman,  the  daughter  of 
jiidams.  In  her  eagerness  to  greet  her  father,  she  had  outrun  her 
^ppnalc  companions,  for  whose  delay  she  thought  it  necessary  in  the 
0St  place  to  apologize,  by  saying  they  had  all  been  over  the  hill 
i»  company  with  John  Buffet  to  look  at  the  ship,  and  were  not  yet 
iS|turned.  It  appeared  that  John  Buffet,  who  was  a  sea-faring 
mian,  ascertained  that  the  ship  was  a  man-of-war,  and  without 
knowing  exactly  why,  became  so  alarmed  for  the  safety  of  Adams 
that  he  either  could  not  or  would  not  answer  any  of  the  interoga- 
tions  which  were  put  to  him.  This  mysterious  silence  set  all  the 
pprty  in  tears,  as  they  feared  he  had  discovered  something  adverse 
%  their  patriarch.  At  length  his  obdur.icy  yielded  to  their  en- 
l|Baties  ;  but  before  he  exploined  the  cause  of  his  conduct,  the 
l^ats  were  seen  to  put  off  from  the  ship,  and  Hannah  immediately 
tairried  to  the  beach  to  kiss  the  old  man's  cheek,  which  she  did 
with  a  fervency  demonstrative  of  the  warmest  affection.  Her 
apology  for  her  companions  was  rendered  unnecessary  by  their 
appearance  on  the  steep  and  circuitous  path  down  the  mountain, 
who,  as  they  arrived  on  the  beach,  successively  welcomed  us  to 
their  island,  with  a  simjilicity  and  sincerity  which  left  no  doubt  of 
the  truth  of  their  professions. 

.  They  almost  all  wore  the  cloth  of  the  island :  their  dress  con- 
fflsted  of  a  petticoat,  and  a  mantle  loosely  thrown  over  the  should- 
ers, and  reaching  to  the  ancles.  Their  stature  was  rather  above 
Ae  common  height ;  and  their  limbs,  from  being  accustomed  to 
work  and  climb  the  hills,  had  acquired  unusual  nuiscularity  ;  but 
flieir  features  and  manners  were  perfectly  feminine.      Their  com- 


i^mmn 


V. 


-\"<W 


^^mmrm 


r-- 


f 


Ithii 


0%H 


H 


/(■ 


';  » 


I'  ^'i' 


1-2 


VOYAHE   TO  TUF.   PACIFH 


\h. 


ploxlon,  tliougli  fiiiror  than  tluU  of  tlio  inon,  was  nf  u  dark  siiii, 
lui(\  l)ii(  its  (li'op  colour  was  less  conspiciioiis,  by  boiny;  rontraM, 
\\illi  (lark  u;lossy  luiir,  wliii-li  liiin;j;  down  over  tlirir  shoulders  in  I,,, 
waving  tresses,  nicely  oiled  :  in  front  it  was  taslefiilly  turned  Im, 
from  the  forehead  and  temples,  and  was  retained  in  that  posit], 
hy  a  chaplel  of  small  red  or  white  aromatic  blossoms,  newly  u;alhi  i, 
from  the  flower-tree  {inorliuln  citrifoiiu),  or  from  the  tobacco  plm 
their  countenances  were  lively  and  u;ood  natured,  their  eyes  dark  m 
animated,  and  each  possessed  an  enviable  row  of  teeth.  Siii 
was  the  agreeable  impression  of  their  first  appearance,  which  w 
heightened  by  the  wish  expressed  simultaneously  by  the  avIii 
groupe,  that  we  were  come  to  stay  several  days  with  them,  \ 
the  sun  was  going  down,  we  signified  our  desire  to  get  to  the  \ 
lage  and  to  pitch  the  observatory  before  dark,  and  this  was  ; 
sooner  made  known,  than  every  instrument  and  article  fouiu! 
carrier. 

We  took  the  only  pathway  which  leads  from  the  landing-pla. 
to  the  village,  and  soon  experienced  the  dilficulties  of  the  asciir 
which  the  distant  appearance  of  the  ground  led  us  to  anticiiwi 
To  the  natives,  however,  there  appeared  to  be  no  obstacles:  w 
men  as  well  as  men  bore  th(;ir  burthens  over  the  most  diflicult  |i;i 
without  iuconvenlencu  ;  while  we,  obliged  at  times  to  have  reroui. 
to  tufts  of  shrubs  or  grass  for  assistance,  experienced  serious  (Icla 
being  also  incommoded  by  the  heat  of  the  weather,  and  by  swan: 
of  house-flies  which  infest  the  island,  and  are  said  to  have  \wi 
imported  there  by  H.  M.  S.  Briton. 

As  soon  as  we  had  gained  the  first  level,  our  party  rested 
some  large  stones  that  lay  half  buried  in  long  grass  on  one  side 
a  ravine,  from  which  the  blue  sky  was  nearly  concealed  by  i: 
overlapping  branches  of  j)alni-trees.  Here,  through  the  medii: 
of  our  female  guides,  who,  furnished  \.ith  the  spreading  leaver 
the  tee-]>lant,  drove  away  our  troublesome  persecutors,  we  obtaiiit 
a  respite  from  their  attacks. 

Ha\ing  refreshed  ourselves,  we  resumed  our  journey  o\(i 
more  easy  path ;  and  after  crossing  two  valleys,  shaded  by  cikh 
nut  trees,  we  arrived  at  the  village.  It  consisted  of  five  hoii-' 
built  upon  a  cleared  piece  of  ground  sloping  to  the  sea,  and  cni; 
manding  a  distant  view  of  the  horizon,  through  a  break  in  an  iv 
tensive  wood  of  palms.  While  the  men  assisted  to  pitch  our  in 
the  women  employed  themselves  in  preparing  our  dinner,  or  iiio: 
properly  supper,  as  it  was  eight  o'clock  at  night. 

The  manner  of  cooking  in  Pitcairn's  Island  is  similar  to  lluii  ' 
Otaheite,  which,  as  some  of  my  readeis  may  not   recollect,  I  >ii; 
briefly  describi.      i\\\  oven  is  made  in  the  ground,  sufficiently  Ini: 
to   contain  a   good-sized   pig,  and   ib   lined  throughout  with  slum 


nearly 

#  'possilil 

the  lei 

ioiside 
dlnbles 


a  (lark  sii|i, 

na;  rontrusi, 

Mil  dors  iiiloi, 

liinu'il  1)11, 

that  positii, 

(nvly  u;atlifiv 
lobacco  |)|;iii' 
oyes  (lark  ;ii 
teeth.  isui 
e,  Avhicli  H 
)y  the  will, 
1  tlicin.  .\ 
:^t  to  tlio  \: 
this  was  1 
■tide   fouiiil 

landing-pi;! 
of  the  asrci 
to  anticij);!! 
l)Htarlos :  w 
:  dinicult  |i;ii 
have  rocdiiiv 
serious  dcla 
,nd  by  swan 
to  have  be. 

rty  rested  i 
1  one  si(k' 
oalod  by  i: 
the  niodiii 
nig  lcavo< 
^,  we  obtiiiik 

u'nc^y  ovci 
id  by  fdcir 
five  lioihi- 
Da,  and  con- 
d<  in  an  i\ 
tell  our  l(ir 
ner,  or  iin': 

ir  to  lliiii  ' 
(M-t,  I  >li;' 
icicntl)  l;ii- 
willi   slt'ii' 


1625.] 


AND  nKKRINO  S   STRAIT. 


7.1 


If 


nearly  (niual  in  size,  which  have  been  previously  inad(>  as  hot  as 
# -possilile.  These  are  C'o\ered  with  sonu;  broad  leaves,  generally  of 
the  tee-|)lant,  and  on  them  is  [ilaeed  the  meat.  If  it  be  a  pig,  its 
J|side  is  lined  with  heated  stones,  as  well  as  the  oven ;  sueh  vog- 
<jj|nbles  as  are  to  bo  cooked  are  then  ilaeed  round  the  animal : 
tpc  whole  is  carefully  covered  with  leaves  of  the  tee,  and  buried 
leneath  a  heap  of  earth,  straw,  or  rushes  and  boughs,  which,  by 
'A  little  use,  becomes  matted  into  one  mass.  In  about  an  hour  and 
i|  quarter  the  animal  is  sufficiently  cooked,  and  is  certainly  more 
^oroughly  done  than  it  would  be  by  a  fire. 

By  the  time  the  tent  Wiis  up  and  the  instruments  secured,  wc 
were  summoned  to  a  meal  cooked  in  this  manner,  than  which  a 
less  sumptuous  fare  would  have  satisfied  appetites  rendered  keen 
by  long  abstinence  and  a  tiresome  journey.  Our  party  divided 
Aemselves  that  they  might  not  crowd  one  house  in  particular: 
Adams  did  not  entertain  ;  but  at  Christian's  1  found  a  table  spread 
with  plates,  knives,  and  forks ;  which,  in  so  remote  a  part  of  the 
world,  was  an  unexpected  sight.  They  were,  it  is  true,  far  from 
llniform  ;  but  by  one  article  being  appropriated  for  another,  we  all 
ife)und  something  to  put  our  portion  upon  ;  and  but  few  of  the  na- 
ifves  were  obliged  to  substitute  their  fingers  for  articles  which  are 
lldispensable  to  the  comfort  of  more  polished  life.  The  smoking 
pig,  by  a  skilful  dissection,  was  soon  portioned  to  every  guest,  but 
iio  one  ventured  to  put  its  excellent  qualities  to  the  test  until  a 
lengtlumed  Amen,  pronounced  by  all  the  party,  had  succeeded  an 
emphatic  grace  deliv(n-ed  by  the  village  parson.  "  Turn  to,''''  was 
then  the  signal  for  attack,  and  as  it  is  convenient  that  all  the  party 
should  finish  their  meal  about  the  same  time,  in  order  that  one 

P'ace  might  serve  for  all,  each  made  the  most  of  his  time.  In 
itcairn's  Island  it  is  not  deemed  proper  to  touch  even  a  bit  of 
bread  without  a  grace  before  and  afier  it.  and  a  person  is  accused  of 
Inconsistency  if  be  leaves  off  and  begins  again.  So  stpct  is  their 
observance  of  this  form,  that  we  do  not  know  of  any  instance  in 
which  '.t  has  been  forgotten.  On  one  occasion  I  had  engaged  Ad- 
ams in  conversation,  and  he  incautiously  t(wk  the  first  mouthful 
without  having  said  his  grace  ;  but  before  he  had  swallowed  it,  he 
recollected  himself,  and  feeling  as  if  he  had  committed  a  crime, 
immediately  put  away  what  he  bad  in  his  mouth,  and  commenced 
his  (iraycr. 

Welcome  cheer,  hospitalit}',  and  good  humour,  were  the  char- 
iicteristics  of  the  feast ;    and  never  was  their  beneficial   influence 

,'Afiore  practically  exemplified  than  on  this  occasion,  by  the  demoli- 
tion ol'  nearly  all  that  was  placed  before  us.      With  the  e\ce|)tioii 

'|)f  some  wine  wi^  had  brought  with  us,  water  was  the  only   bever- 
age    This  was  placed  in  a  large  jug  at  one  end  of  the  board,  and, 

^OL.    1.  JO  " 


\h^. 


^£l 


-*  '"#1 


\h  'r 


ifH 


•  PI 


•J 


b^  ^ 


ji 


74 


VOY.VfiK  TO  TUK   PACIFIC 


[IK 


wlioii  iic'cossaiy,  was  passed  round  the  tahlr — a  ceremony  at  wIik 
in  Pitcairn's  Island  in  particular,  it  is  desirable  to  lie  the  (irsi  | 
taker,  as  the  gravy  of  the  dish  is  invariably  minified  with  iIk!  i 
tents  of  the  pitcher:  tlu;  natives,  wlio  i)refer  usin^  their  finj^ois 
forks,  beinu;  (|uite  indillerent  whether  they  hold  the  vessel  hy  i 
handle  or  by  the  spout.  Three  or  four  torches  made  with  (lomi 
nuts  (^nkiiritcs  trilohct),  strung  upon  the  fibres  of  a  pahn-leaf,  w, 
stuck  in  tin  pots  at  the  end  of  the  table,  and  formed  an  exctH, 
substitute  for  candles,  except  that  they  gave  a  considerable  Ik. 
and  cracked,  and  fired,  somewhat  to  the  discomfiture  of  the  pci< 
whose  lace  was  near  them. 

Notwithstanding  these  deficiencies,  we  made  <a  very  condbrtal 
and  hearty  sup])er,  heard  many  little  anecdotes  of   the   place,  i 
derived  nmch  amusemcut  from  the  singularity  of  the  in(iuiri(N 
our  hosts.      One  regret  only  intruded  itself  upon  the  general  ( 
viviality,  which  we  did  not  fail  to  mention,  namely,  that  there  i 
so  wide  a  distinction  between  the  sexes.     This  was  the  rcinaiii< 
a  custom  very  common  among  the   South   Sea  Islands,  wliicli 
some  places   is  carried  to  sucli  an  extent,  that   it  imposes  (|( 
upon  the  woman  who  shall  cat  in  the  presence  of  her  huslwi 
and  though  tlie  distinction  between  man  and  wife  is  not  here  r 
ried  to  that  extent,  it  is  still  sufliciently  observ^ed  to  exclude  all  i 
women  from  table,  if  there  happens  to  be  a  deficiency  of  seats.  , 
Pitcairn's  Island,  they  have  settled  ideas  of  right  and  wrons;, 
which  they  obstinately  adhere  ;  and,  fortunately,  they  have  inibii.  , 
them  generally  from  the  best  source. 

In  the  instance  in  question,  they  have,  however,  certainly  cm 
but  of  this  they  could  not  be  persuaded,  nor  did  they,  I  belio 
thank  us  for  our  interference.     Their  argumr-it  wivs,  that  man  v 
made  first,  and  ought,  consequently,  on  all  occasions,  to  be  son 
first — a  conclusion  which  deprived   us  of  the  conqmny  of  the,  w 
men  at  table,  during  the  whole  of  our  stay  at  the  island.     F 
from  considering  themselves   neglected,  they   very   good-natiiioi: 
chatted  with  us  behind  our  seats,  and   flapped   away   the  flics,  r 
by  a  gentle   tap,  accidentally  or  playfully  delivered,  remindcii 
occasionally  of  the  honoiu-  that  was  done  us.      The   conchision 
our  meal  was  the  signal   for  the   women   and   children    to   |)rep; 
their  own,  to  whom  we  resigned  our  seats,  and  strolled  out  to  t 
joy  the  freshness  of  the  night.      It  was  late  by  the  time  the  wom 
had  finished,  and  we  were  not  sorry   when  we  were  shown  lo: 
beds  prepared  for  us.     The  mattress  was  composed  of  palm-tn 
covered  with  native  cloth  ;    the  sheets  were  of  the  same  mattii. 
and  we  knew  by  the  crackling  of  them,  that  they  were  (piiic  n 
from  the  loom  or  beater.     The  whole  arrangcnneiit  was  exlreim 
comfortable,  and  highly  inviting  to  repose,  which  the  freshness 


P>g' 


« 


[/I 

oinoiiy  at  whir 
IP   tlip  fiiM  I 
il  witli   ihc  I, 
;  tliuir  finm.^. 

!     VOSSOI     l)y  I 

ulo  with  (1()„|| 
palin-luaf,  w, 
'(I  an  oxcell, 
iisi(loral)li;  In, 
•e  of  the  j)(.'i- 

Jiy  coiiiloiia 

the  place,  ;i 
the  in(|iiiri(s 
ic  general  i, 
,  tliat  there 

the  renmiii- 
lands,  whicli 

imposes  di 
f  her  liiisl);ii. 
i  not  hero  f; 

exclude  all : 
cy  of  scats. 

and  wroii::, 
jy  have  inibil, 

certanily  cm 
they,  I  helie: 
s,  that  man  , 
s,  to  be  S(>i\ 
any  of  the  w 
e  island.     F 

gjood-naturoi: 
'  the  flies.  ;i: 
I,  reminded 
!  conchision 
■en  to  prep; 
led  out  to  t 
ime  the  worn- 
'  shown  (0  1 

of  paliii-iifi 
same  niateiii 
ere  (piile  ii- 
ivas  exirciii. 
e  freslllles^ 


Jfi'25. 


AND    nEEIllNflS    STHAIT. 


75 


the  apartment,  rendered  cool  by  a  free  circulation  of  air  through 
its  sides,  enabled  us  to  enjoy  without  any  aimoyance  from  heat 
or  insect'^.  One  interruption  oidy  disturi)e(l  oiu-  lirst  sleep;  it  was 
the  |)leasing  melody  of  the  evening  hynm,  which,  after  the  lights 
were  put  out,  was  chavnited  by  the  whole  family  in  the  middle  of 
(lie  room.  In  the  morning  also  we  were  awoke  by  their  morning 
hymn  and  family  devotion.  As  we  were  nnich  tired,  and  the  sun's 
rtys  had  not  yet  found  their  way  through  the  broad  opening  of  the 
apartment,  we  composed  ourselves  to  rest  again  ;  and  on  awaking 
found  that  all  the  natives  were  gone  to  their  several  occupations, — 
the  men  to  olFcr  what  assistance  they  could  to  our  boats  in  landing, 
carrying  burthens  for  the  seamen,  or  to  gather  what  fruits  were  in 
season.  Some  of  the  women  had  taken  our  linen  to  wash  ;  those 
whose  turn  it  was  to  cook  for  the  day  were  preparing  the  oven,  the 
pig,  and  the  yams ;  and  we  could  hear,  by  the  distant  reiterated 
strokes  of  the  beater,*  that  othrts  were  engaged  in  the  manufac- 
.ture  of  cloth.  Hy  our  bedside  had  already  been  ])laced  some  ripe 
finits ;  and  our  hats  were  crowned  with  chaplets  of  the  fresh  blos- 
som of  the  nono,  or  flower-tree  (worimln  citnjhlia),  which  the 
Women  had  gathered  in  the  freshness  of  the  morning  dew.  On 
looking  round  the  apartment,  though  it  contained  several  beds,  we 
fcund  no  partition,  curtain,  or  screens ;  they  had  not  yet  been  con- 
sidered necessary.  So  far,  indeed,  from  concealment  being  thought 
of  when  we  were  about  to  get  uj),  the  women,  anxious  to  show 
their  attention,  assendjled  to  wish  us  a  good  morning,  and  to  in- 
quire in  what  way  ihey  could  best  contribute  to  our  comforts,  and 
to  present  us  with  some  little  gift,  which  the  produce  of  the  island 
afforded.  Many  persons  would  have  felt  awkward  at  rising  and 
dressing  before  so  many  pretty  black-eyed  damsels  assembled  in 
the  centre  of  a  sjmcious  room  ;  but  by  a  little  habit  we  overcame 
this  embarrassment ;  and  found  the  benefit  of  their  services  in 
fetching  water  as  we  required  it,  and  substituting  clean  linen  for 
such  as  we  pulled  ofT. 

It  nuist  be  remembered,  that  with  these  people,  as  with  the 
other  islanders  of  the  South  Seas,  the  custom  has  generally  been 
to  go  naked,  the  maro  with  the  men  excepted,  and  with  the  wo- 
men the  petticoat,  or  kilt,  with  a  loose  covering  over  the  bust, 
which,  indeed,  in  Pitcairn's  Island,  they  are  always  careful  to  con- 
ceal ;  consequently,  an  exposure  to  that  extent  carried  with  it  no 
'feeling  whatever  of  indelicacy ;  or,  I  may  safely  add,  that  the  Pit- 
cairn  Islanders  would  have  been  the  last  persons  to  incur  the  charge. 

We  assembled  at  breakfast  about  noon,  the  usual  eating  hour 
of  i'  e  natives,  though  they  do  not  confine   themselves  to  that   pe- 

*  riu:?  IK    u  instrument  used  for  the  manufacture  of  their  doth. 


».  .'^1 


-♦    ■' 


V 


y^ 


/ 


V 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


M   125 


12^ 


11.25 


■  2.2 

IE 

1.4    11.6 


Hiotograpiuc 

Sciences 

Corporation 


•^ 


V 


^^ 


:\ 


\ 


V 


13  WIST  MAIN  STRiiT 

WEBSTiR,  N.Y.  MS80 

(716)  873-4S03 


' 


^^ 


o\ 


s 


76 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Dec. 


riHi' 


ii-*» 


c.  I  k> 


Um 


II' lit; 


:*1  »i^  f^ 


riod  exactly,  Inil  take  their  meal  whenever  it  is  sufficiently  cooked; 
ami  aflerwards  availed  ourselves  of  their  proffered  services  to  sliow 
us  tiie  island,  and  under  their  guidance  first  inspected  the  village, 
and  wiiat  lay  in  its  inunediate  \  icinity.  In  an  adjoining  house  we 
found  two  young  girls  seated  upon  the  ground,  employed  in  the 
laborious  exercise  of  beating  out  the  bark  of  the  cloth-tree,  which 
they  intended  to  present  to  us,  on  our  de})arture,  as  a  keepsake. 
The  handet  consisted  of  five  cottages,  built  more  substantially  than 
neatly,  upon  a  cleared  patch  of  ground,  sloj)ing  to  the  northward, 
from  the  high  land  of  the  interior  to  the  cliffs  which  overhang  the 
sea,  of  which  the  houses  command  a  distant  view  in  a  northern  di- 
rection. In  the  N.  E.  quarter,  the  horizon  may  also  be  seen  peep- 
ing between  the  stems  of  the  lofty  palms,  whose  graceful  branches 
nod  like  ostrich  plumes  to  the  refreshing  trade-wind.  To  tlic 
northward,  and  northwestward,  thicker  groves  of  palm-trees  rise  in 
an  impenetrable  wood,  from  two  ravines  which  traverse  the  hills  in 
various  directions  to  their  summit.  Above  the  one,  to  the  west- 
ward, a  lofty  mountain  rears  its  head,  and  towards  the  sea  ter- 
minates in  a  fearful  precipice  filled  with  caverns,  in  which  tlie  dif- 
ferent sea-fowl  find  an  undisturbed  retreat.  Immediately  round 
the  village  are  the  small  enclosures  for  fattening  pigs,  goats,  and 
poultry ;  and  beyond  them,  the  cultivated  grounds  i)roducing  the 
banana,  plantain,  melon,  yam,  taro,  sweet  potatoes,  appai,  tee,  and 
cloth  plant,  with  other  useful  roots,  fruits,  and  shrubs,  which  ex- 
tend far  up  the  mountain  and  to  the  southward ;  but  in  this  partic- 
ular direction  they  are  excluded  from  the  view  by  an  inunense 
banyan  tree,  two  hundred  paces  in  circumference,  whose  foilago 
and  branches  form  of  themselves  a  canopy  impervious  to  the  rays 
of  the  sun.  Every  cottage  has  its  out-iiouse  for  making  cloth,  its 
baking-place,  its  sty,  and  its  poultry -house. 

Within  the  enclosure  of  palm-trees  is  the  cemetery  where  the 
few  persons  who  had  died  on  the  island,  together  with  those  who 
met  with  violent  deaths,  are  deposited.  Besides  the  houses  above- 
mentioned,  there  are  three  or  four  othei-s  built  upon  the  plantations 
beyond  the  palm  groves.  One  of  these,  situated  higher  up  the 
hill  than  the  village,  belonged  to  Adams,  who  had  retired  from  the 
bustle  of  the  hamlet  to  a  more  q\iiet  and  sequestered  spot,  to  enjoy 
the  advantages  of  an  elevated  situation,  so  desirable  in  warm  coun- 
tries ;  and  in  addition  to  these  again  there  are  four  other  cottages 
to  the  eastward  whicli  belong  to  the  Youngs  and  Quintals. 

All  these  cottages  are  strongly  built  of  wood  in  an  oblong  form, 
and  thatched  with  the  leaves  of  the  palm-tree  bent  round  the  stem 
of  the  same  branch,  and  laced  horizontally  to  rafters,  so  placed  a« 
to  give  a  proper  pitch  to  the  roof.  The  greater  part  have  an  up- 
per story,  which  is  appropriated  to  sleeping,  and  contain  four  beds 


I8i25.| 


ANn  BEKIllNfi  S   STRAIT. 


77 


|)uilt  in  (lie  angles  of  the  room,  each  sufliciently  large  for  three  or 
four  persons  to  lie  on.  They  are  made  of  wood  of  the  cioth-trcc, 
and  are  raised  eighteen  inches  above  the  floor ;  a  mattress  of  palm-  , 
leaves  is  laid  upon  the  ^jlanks,  and  above  it  three  sheets  of  the 
clolh-plant,  which  form  an  excellent  substitute  for  linen.  The 
lower  room  generally  contains  one  or  more  beds,  but  is  always  used 
as  their  eating-r(X)m,  and  has  a  broad  table  in  one  i)art,  with  several 
stools  placed  round  it.  The  floor  is  elevated  above  a  foot  from 
the  ground,  and,  as  well  as  the  sides  of  the  house,  is  made  of  stout 
plank,  and  not  of  bamboo,  or  stone,  as  stated  by  Captain  Folger ; 
indeed  they  have  not  a  piece  of  bamboo  on  the  island  ;  nor  have 
they  any  mats.  The  floor  is  a  fixture,  but  the  sideboards  are  let 
into  a  groove  in  the  supporters,  and  can  be  removed  at  pleasure, 
according  to  the  state  of  the  weather,  and  the  whole  side  may,  if 
reijuired,  be  laid  open.  The  lower  room  communicates  with  the 
upper  by  a  stout  ladder  in  the  centre,  and  leads  up  through  a  trap- 
door into  the  bedroom. 

Froiu  the  village  several  pathways  (for  roads  there  are  none) 
diverge,  and  generally  lead  into  the  valleys,  which  afford  a  less 
(lifHcult  ascent  to  the  upper  part  of  the  island  than  the  natural 
slope  of  the  hills ;  still  they  are  very  rugged  and  steep,  and  in  the 
rainy  season  so  slippery  that  it  is  almost  impossible  for  any  person, 
excejjting  the  natives,  to  traverse  them  with  safety.  We  selected 
one  which  led  over  the  mountain  to  the  landing-place,  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  island,  and  visited  the  several  plantations  upon 
the  higher  grounds,  which  extend  towards  the  mountain  witli  a 
gentle  slope.  Here  the  mutineers  originally  built  their  summer- 
houses,  for  the  purpose  of  enjoying  the  breeze  and  overlooking  the 
yam  grounds,  which  are  more  productive  than  tiiose  lower  down. 
Near  these  plantations  are  the  remains  of  some  ancient  morals ; 
and  a  spot  is  pointed  out  as  the  place  where  Christian  was  first 
buried.  By  a  circuitous  and,  to  us,  difficult  path,  we  reached  the 
ridge  of  the  mountain,  the  height  of  which  is  1109  feet  above  the 
sea ;  this  is  the  highest  part  of  the  island.  The  ridge  extends  in  a 
north  and  south  direction,  and  unites  two  small  peaks :  it  is  so  nar- 
row as  to  be  in  many  parts  scarcely  three  feet  wide,  and  forms  a 
dangerous  pass  between  two  fearful  precipices.  The  natives  were 
so  accustomed  to  climb  these  crags  that  they  unconcernedly  skipped 
from  point  to  point  like  the  hunters  of  chamois ;  and  young  Chris- 
tian actually  jumped  upon  the  very  peak  of  a  cliff,  which  was  so 
small  as  to  be  scarcely  sufficient  for  his  feet  to  rest  upon,  and  from 
which  any  other  jierson  would  have  shuddered  even  to  look  down 
upon  the  beach,  lying  many  hundred  feet  at  if  biise.  At  the 
northern  extremity  of  this  ridge  is  a  cave  of  some  interest,  as  being 
I  lie  intended  retreat  of  Christian,  in  the  event  of  u  landing  being 


HV 


78 


VOYAGK  TO  THE  PAClKIt. 


[De( 


y  V 


r  "-I 


^1 


effected  by  any  ship  sent  in  pursuit  of  him,  and  where  he  resolved 
to  sell  his  life  as  dearly  as  he  could.  In  this  recess  he  always  kepi 
a  store  of  provisions,  and  near  it  erected  a  small  hut,  well  conceal- 
ed by  trees,  which  served  the  purpose  of  a  watclihouse.  So  difli. 
cult  was  the  approach  to  this  cave,that  even  ifthe  party  were  successful 
in  crossing  tlie  ridge,  as  long  as  his  ammunition  lasted,  he  migln 
have  bid  defiance  to  any  force.  An  unfrequented  and  dangerou> 
path  leads  from  this  place  to  a  peak  which  commands  a  view  of  tlit 
wes-tem  and  southern  coasts :  at  this  height,  on  a  clear  day,  a  per- 
fect map  of  the  bottom  is  exhibited  by  the  different  coloured  waters, 
On  all  points  the  island  is  terminated  by  cliffs,  or  rocky  projections 
off  which  lie  scattered  numerous  fragments  of  rock,  rising  like  S(j 
many  black  pinnacles  amid  the  surf,  which  on  all  sides  rolls  in  upon 
the  shore. 

We  descended  by  a  less  abrupt  slope  'han  that  by  which  we  advanr- 
ed,  and  took  our  way  through  yam  grounds  to  a  ravine  which  brouglii 
us  to  the  village.  The  path  leading  down  this  ravine  is,  in  nianv 
places,  so  precipitious,  that  we  were  constantly  in  danger  of  slipj)in; 
and  rolling  into  the  depths  below,  which  the  assistance  of  the  na- 
tives  alone  prevented. 

While  we  were  thus  borrowing  help  from  others,  and  graspins: 
every  tuft  of  grass  and  bough  that  offered  its  friendly  support,  we 
were  overtaken  by  a  groupe  of  chubby  little  children,  trudging  un- 
concernedly on,  munching  a  water  melon,  and  balancing  on  their 
heads  calabashes  of  water,  which  they  had  brought  from  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  island.  They  smiled  at  our  helplessness  as  they 
passed,  and  we  felt  their  innocent  reproof;  but  we  were  still  un- 
practised in  such  feats,  while  they,  from  being  trained  to  them,  had 
atcjuired  a  footing  and  a  firmness  which  habit  alone  can  produce. 

it  was  dark  when  we  reached  the  houses,  but  we  found  by  a 
whoop  which  echoed  through  the  woods,  that  we  were  not  the  lasi 
from  home.  This  whoop,  peculiar  to  the  place,  is  so  shrill,  that  ii 
may  be  heard  half  over  the  island,  and  the  ear  of  the  natives  is  so 
quick,  that  they  will  catch  it  when  we  cuuld  distinguish  nothing  ol 
the  kind.  By  the  tone  in  which  it  is  delivered,  they  also  knowtlie 
wants  of  the  person,  and  who  it  is.  These  shrill  sounds,  whicli  \n 
had  just  heard,  informed  us,  and  those  who  were  at  the  village,  that 
a  party  had  lost  their  way  in  the  woods.  A  blazing  beacon  was 
immediately  made,  whicli,  together  with  a  few  more  whoops  to  di- 
rect the  party,  soon  brought  the  absentees  home.  Their  perfection 
in  these  signals  will  be  manifest  from  the  following  anecdote  :  1  was 
one  day  crossing  the  mountain  which  intersects  the  island,  with 
Christian  ;  we  had  not  long  parted  with  their  whale-boat  on  tiic 
western  side  of  the  island,  and  were  descending  a  ravine  amidst  a  thick- 
et of  trees,  when  he  turned  round  and  said,  >•  The  whale-boat  is  coiut 


^ 


:     I9Q5 


■'■)i- 


1925.] 


AND  BEEUINf;  8  STRAIT. 


7» 


s,  in  luanv 


round  to  Bounty  Bay  ;"  at  winch  I  was  not  a  little  surprised,  as  1  had 
heard  notliing,   and  we  could   not  see  through  the  wood  ;  but  he 
iieard  the  signal  ;  and  when  we  got  down  it  proved  to  be  the  case. 
In  this  little  retreat  there  is  not  much  variety,  and  the  descrip- 
tion of"  one  day's  occupation  serves  equally  for  its  successor.     The 
dance  is  a  recreation  very  rarely  indulged  in  ;  but  as  we  particularly 
rccjuested  it,  they  would  not  refuse  to  gratify  us.     A  large  room  in 
Quintal's  house  was  prepared  for  the  occasion,  and  the  comi)any 
were  ranged  on  one  side  of  the  apartment,  glowing  beneath  a  blazing 
string  of  doodoe  nuts  ;  the  musicians  were  on  the  other,  under  the 
direction  of  Arthur  Quintal.     He  was  seated  upon  the  ground,  as 
head  musician,  and  had  before  him  a  large  gourd,  and  a  piece  of  mu- 
sical wood  (poron),  which  he  balanced  nicely  upon  his  toes,  that 
there  might  be  the  less  interruption  to  its  vibrations.      He  struck 
the  instrument  alternately  with  two  sticks,  and  was  accompanied  by 
Dolly,  who  performed  very  skilfully  with  both  hands  upon  a  gourd, 
which  had  a  longitudinal  hole  cut  in  one  end  of  it ;  rapidly  beating 
the  orifice  with  the  palms  of  her  hands,  and  releasing  it  again  with 
unconmion    dexterity,  so  as  to  produce  a  tattoo,  but    in  perfect 
time  with  the  other  instrmnent.     A  third  performed  upon  the  Boun- 
ty's old  copper  fish-kettle,  which  formed  a  sort  of  bass.      To  this 
exhilarating  music,  three  grown-up  females  stood  up  to  dance,  but 
with  a  reluctance  which  showed  it  was  done  only  to  oblige  us,  as  they 
consider  such  performances  an  inroad  upon  their  usual  innocent  pas- 
times.    The  figure  consisted  of  such  parts  of  the  Otaheitan  dance 
as  were  thought  most  decorous,  and  was  little  more  than  a  shuffling 
of  the  feet,  sliding  past  each  other,  and  snapping  their  fingers;  I  ut 
even  tnis  produced,  at  times,  considerable  laughter  from  the  female 
spectators,  perhaps  from  some  associat-on  of  ridiculous  ideas,  which- 
we  as  strangers,  did  not  feel ;  and  no  doubt  had  our  opinion  of  the 
performance  been  considted,  it  would  have  essentially  differed  from 
theirs.     They  did  not  long  continue  these  diversions,  from  an  idea 
that  it  v/as  too  great  a  levity  to  be  continued  long  ;    and  only  the 
three  'jefore-mentioned  ladies  could  be  prevailed  upon  to  exhibit 
their  skill.     One  of  the  officers,  with  a  view  of  contributing  to  the 
mirth  of  the  colonists,  had  obligingly  brought  his  violin  on  shore, 
and,  as  an  inducement  for  them  to  dance  again,  offered  to  play  some 
country  dances  and  reels,  if  they  would  proceed ;    but  they  could 
not  be  tempted  to  do  so.     They,  however,  solicited  a  specimen  of 
the  capabilities  of  the  instrument,  which  was  granted,  and,  though 
very  well  executed,  did  not  give  the  satisfaction  which  we  anticipa- 
ted.    They  had  not  yet  arrived  at  a  state  of  lefinement  to  appreci- 
ate harmony,  but  were  highly  delighted  with  the  rapid  motion  of 
tlie  fingers,  and  always  liked  to  be  within  sight  of  the   instrument 
when  it  was  played.     They  were  afterwards  heard  to  say,  that  they 


li  4i  ^- 1 


T3(c* 


80 


VOYAflK   TO  THE   PACIFir 


l)u 


preferred  their  own  simple  imis'cal  coiitrivuncc  to  the  violin.     TIk 
did  not  appear  to  have  the  least  ear  for  nuisie  :  one  of  the  oOid, 
took  considerahle  pains  to  teach  them  thelumdreth  |)sulm,tiiat  tin 
might  not  chaunt  all   the  psalms  and  hymns  to  the  same  air ;  W 
they  did  not  evince  the  least  aptitnde  or  desire  to  learn  it. 

The  followinsi;  day  was  devoted  to  the  completion  of  onr  vicwi. 
the  island,  of  which  the  natives  \\?rc  anxious  we  should  see  ever 
part.  We  arcordinu;ly  set  out  with  the  same  guides  by  a  nwd  w  liid 
brought  ui?  to  "the  Hope,"  a  steep  clifFso  called  from  its  beinij  iip. 
ocssary  to  descend  it  by  a  rope.  It  is  situated  at  the  eastern  end  u: 
the  island,  and  overlooks  a  snir  11  sandy  bay  lined  with  rocks,  wiiui 
render  it  dangerous  for  a  boat  to  attempt  to  land  there. 

At  the  foot  of  "  the  Rope"  were  found  some  stone  axes,  and  ; 
hone,  the  mannfaoture  of  the  aborigines,  and  upon  the  faoe  (if; 
large  rock  were  some  characlerri  very  rudely  en^rraved,  which  \\i 
copied  ;  they  appeared  to  have  been  executed  by  the  Hountv'. 
people,  though  Adams  did  not  recollect  it.  To  the  left  of-'tln 
Rope"  is  a  peak  of  considerable  height,  overlooking  Bounty  H;iv 
Upon  this  eminence  the  mutineers,  on  their  arrival,  found  four  im. 
ages,  about  six  feet  in  height,  placed  upon  a  platform ;  and  accord- 
ing to  Adams's  description  not  unlike  the  morals  at  Easter  Islaml 
excejiting  that  they  were  upon  a  much  smaller  scale.  One  of  tlic^f 
images,  which  had  been  preserved,  was  a  rude  representation  ofth 
human  figure  to  the  hips,  and  '.vas  hewn  out  of  a  piece  of  red  lava 

Near  this  supposed  niorai,  we  were  told  that  human  bones  am 
stone  hatchets  were  occasionally  dug  up,  but  we  could  find  onli 
two  bones,  by  which  we  might  judge  of  the  stature  of  these  ahori 
gines.  These  were  an  os  femoris  and  a  part  of  a  cranium  of  an  un- 
usual size  and  thickness.  The  hatchets,  of  which  we  obtained  sev- 
eral specimens,  were  made  of  a  compact  basaltic  lava,  not  u\\\h 
clinkstone,  very  hard  and  capable  of  a  fine  polish.  In  shape  tin' 
resembled  those  used  at  Otaheite,  and  by  all  the  islanders  of  tlie^t 
seas  that  I  have  seen.  A  large  stone  bowl  was  also  found,  siniila 
to  those  used  at  Otaheite,  and  two  stone  huts.  That  this  islam 
should  have  been  inhabited  is  not  extraordinary,  when  it  is  reniPiii- 
bered  that  Easter  Island,  which  is  much  more  distant  from  the  v\\- 
tern  world,  was  so,  though  nothing  is  known  of  the  Aite  of  ilit 
people. 

From  these  images,  and  the  large  piles  of  stones  on  heiglits  ii 
which  they  juust  have  been  dragged  with  gi'cat  labour,  it  may  l» 
corcluded  that  the  island  was  irdiabited  a  considerable  time ;  an 
from  bones  being  found  always  buried  under  tliese  piles,  and  nrw 
upon  the  surface,  we  may  presume  that  those  who  survived  (jnitln 
the  island  in  their  canoes  to  seek  an  asylum  elswhere. 

Having  this  day  seen  every  part  of  the  island,  we  had  no  finllii 


1,92.^ 


s4 


1925.] 


AND  BEERINO  S  STRAIT. 


81 


desire  to  ranil)lc;  and  as  the  weather  did  not  promise  to  he  very  fair, 
I  left  the  ohscrvatory  in  tlie  charge  of  Mr.  Wolfe,  and  emhariied, 
accompanied  hy  old  Adams.  Soon  after  he  came  on  hoard  ithegan 
to  hlow,  and  for  several  days  afterwards  the  wind  prevented  any 
communication  with  the  shore.  The  natives  during  this  period  were 
in  great  apprehension :  they  went  to  the  top  of  the  island  every 
morning  to  look  for  the  ship ;  and  once,  when  she  was  not  to  be 
seen,  began  to  entertain  the  most  serious  doid)ts  whether  Adams 
would  be  returned  to  them  ;  but  he,  knowing  wc  should  close  the 
island  as  soon  as  the  weather  would  permit,  was  rather  glad  of  jiie 
opportunity  of  remaining  on  board,  and  of  again  associating  \wtrj  his 
coimtrymen.  And  although  he  had  passed  liis  sixty-fifth  year,  join- 
ed in  the  dances  and  songs  of  the  forecastle,  and  was  always 
cheerful. 

On  the   16th  the  weather  permitted  a  l)oat  to  he  sent  on  shore, 
and  Adams  was  restored  to  his  anxious  friends.     Previous  to  quit- 
ting the  ship,  he  said  it  would  add  much  to  his  happiness  if  I  would 
read  the  marriage  ceremony  to  him  and  his  wife,  as  he  couUl   not 
bear  the  idea  of  living  with  her  without  its  being  done.     He  had 
long  wished  for  the  arrival  of  a  ship  of  war  to  set  his  conscience   at 
!  rest  on  that  point.     Though  Adams  was  aged,  and  the  old  woman 
:  had  been  blind  and  bed-ridden  for  several  years,  he  made  such  a 
point  of  it,  that  it  would  have  been  cruel  to  refuse  him.     They 
I  were  accordingly  the  next  day  duly  united,  and  the  event  noted  in 
I  a  register  by  Jolin  Buffet. 

The  islanders  were  delighted  at  having  us  again  among  them,  and 
[expressed  themseh-es  in  the  warmest  terms.    We  soon  found,  through 
lour  intercourse  with  these  excellent  people,  that  they  had  no  wants 
[excepting  such  as  had  been  created  by  an  intercourse  with  vessels, 
[which  have  from  time  to  time  supplied  them  with  European  articles. 
jNature  has  been  extremely  bountiful  to  them ;    and  necessity  has 
Itaught  them  bow  to  apply  hec  gifts  to  their  own  particular  uses. 
[Still  they  have  before  them  the  prospectof  an  increasing  population, 
[with  limited  means  of  supporting  it.       Almost  every  part  of  the 
[island  capable  of  cultivation  has  been  turned  to  account;  but  what 
[would  have  been  the  consequences  of  this  increase,  had  notanacci- 
[dent  discovered  their  situation,  it  is  not  difllcult  to  foresee:    and  a 
iTcflecting  mind  will  naturally  trace  in  that  disclosure  the  benign  in- 
terference of  tlie  same  hand  which  has  raised  such  a  virtuous  colo- 
ny from  so  guilty  a  stock.     Adams  having  contemplated  the  situa- 
tion which  the  islanders  would  have  been  reduced  to,  begged,  at  our 
list  interview,  that  I  would  communicate  with  the  government  upon 
the  subject,  which  was  done ;  and  I  am  happy  to  say  that,  through 
llie  interference  of  the  Admiralty  and  Colonial  office,  means  have 
been  taken  for  removing  them  to  any  place  they  may  choose  for 

VOL,  I.  11 


'   U 


»j 


t  I 


82 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Dec. 


M  'n 


W' 


t 


ii  ■" 


iri 


ihemselvcs ;  and  a  liberal  supply  of  useful  articles  has  recently  been 
sent  to  them.* 

Some  books  of  travels  which  were  left  from  time  to  time  on  the  j 
island,  and  the  accounts  they  had  heard  of  foreign  countries  from 
their  visiters,  has  created  in  the  islanders  a  strong  desire  to  travel, 
so  much  so  that  they  one  day  undertook  a  voyage  in  their  whale- 
boat  to  an  island  which  they  learnt  was  not  very  far  distant  from 
their  own ;  but  fortunately  for  them,  as  the  compass  on  which  tiiej  *1 
relied,  one  of  the  old  Bounty's,  was  so  rusty  as  to  be  quite  useless   I 
their  curiosity  yielded  to  discretion,  and  they  returned  before  they  M 
lost  sight  of  their  native  soil. 

The  idea  of  passing  all  their  days  upon  an  island  only  two  mile;  > 
long,  without  seeing  any  thing  of  the  world,  or,  what  was  astrongerj 
argument,  without  doing  any  good  in  it,  had  with  several  of  tlienj 
been  deeply  considered.     But  family  ties,  and  an  ardent  affectiojj 
for  each  other,  and  for  their  native  soil,  had  always  interposed  to; 
prevent  their  going  away  singly.     George  Adams,  however,  bavin:  ^^ 
no  wife  to  detain  him,  but,  on  the  contrary,  reasons  for  wishing  tt 
employ  his  thoughts  on  subjects  foreign  to  his  home,  was  very  anx-rji 
ious  to  embark  in  the  Blossom;  and  I  would  have  acceded  to  liLp 
wishes,  had  not  his  mother  wept  bitterly  at  the  idea  of  parting  froiii 
him,  and  imposed  terms  touching  his  return  to  the  island  to  wliicla 
I  could  not  accede.     It  was  a  sore  disappointment  to  poor  Georee  y 
whose  case  forms  a  striking  instance  of  the  rigid  manner  in  whicli  ^ 
these  islanders  observe  their  word.  * 

Wives  upon  Pitcairn  Island,  it  may  be  imagined,  are  very  scarce 
as  the  same  restrictions  with  regard  to  relationship  exist  as  in  En;- 
land.     George,  in  his  early  days,  had  fallen  in  love  with  Poll; 
Young,  a  girl  a  little  older  than  himself;   but  Polly,  probably  a, 
that  time  liking  some  one  else,  and  ueliig  at  the  age  when  youn; 
ladies'  expectations  are  at  the  highest,  had  incautiously  said,  shfj 
never  ivouhl  give  her  hand  to  George  Adams.      He,  neverthele<;i 
indulged  a  hope  that  she  would  one  day  relent ;  and  to  this  end  wij 
unremitting  in  his  endeavours  to  please  her.   In  this  expectation  I 
was  not  mistaken ;  his  constancy  and  attentions,  and,  as  he  gms 
into  manhood,  his  handsome  form,  which  George  took  every  oppor] 
tunity  of  throwing  into  the  most  becoming  attitudes  before  her.  ?  i 
tened  Polly's  heart  into  a  regard  for  him,  and,  had  nothing  pa.-n 
before,  she  would  willingly  have  given  him  her  hand    But  the  vovp 
of  her  youth  was  not  to  be  got  over,  and  the  love-sick  couple  1 
guished  on  from  day  to  day,  victims  to  the  folly  of  early  resoki,! 
tions. 

The  weighty  case  was  referred  for  our  consideration ;   and  ibfj 


♦  1  have  been  informed  since  that  they  have  changed  their  mind,  andareatprtt| 
ent  contented  with  their  situation. 


I 


Mtft-. 


18'25.J 


AND    DEERING  8    STRAIT. 


83 


landarcatpr<r 


fears  of  the  party  were  in  some  measure  relieved  l>y  the  result, 
which  was,  tiiat  it  would  be  much  i)etter  to  marry  than  to  continue 
unhappy,  in  consequence  of  a  hasty  determination  made  before  the 
judgment  was  matured;  they  could  not,  however,  be  prevailed  on 
to  yield  to  our  decision,  and  we  left  them  unmarried.* 

Another  instance  of  a  rigid  performance  of  promise  was  exem- 
plified in  old  Adams,  who  is  anxious  that  his  own  conduct  should 
form  an  example  to  the  rising  generation. 

In  the  course  of  conversation,  he  one  day  said  he  would  accom- 
pany mo  up  the  mountain,  if  there  was  nobody  else  near  ;  and  it 
so  happened,  that  on  the  day  I  had  leisure  to  go,  the  young  men 
were  all  out  of  the  way.  Adams,  therefore,  insisted  upon  per- 
forming his  engagement,  though  the  day  was  extremely  hot,  and 
the  journey  was  much  too  laborious,  in  any  weather,  for  his  ad- 
vanced period  of  life.  He  nevertheless  set  out,  adtling,  "  1  said  1 
would  go,  and  so  I  will ;  besides,  without  example,  precci)t  will 
have  but  little  effect."  At  the  first  valley  he  threw  olT  his  hat, 
handkerchief,  and  jacket  and  left  them  by  the  side  of  the  path  ;  at 
the  second  his  trousers  were  cast  aside  into  a  bush  ;  and  had  he 
been  alone,  or  provided  with  a  maro,  his  shirt  would  certainly  have 
followed;  thus  disencumbered,  he  boldly  led  the  way,  which  was 
well  known  to  hun  in  earlier  days  ;  but  it  was  so  long  since  he  had 
trodden  it,  that  we  met  with  many  difficulties.  At  length  we  reach- 
ed the  top  of  the  ridge,  which  we  were  informed  was  the  place 
where  M'Coy  and  Quintal  appeared  in  defiance  of  the  blacks. 
Adams  felt  so  fatigued  that  he  was  now  glad  to  lie  down.  The 
breeze  here  blew  so  hard  and  cold,  that  a  shirt  alone  was  little  use, 
and  had  he  not  been  inured  to  all  the  changes  of  atmosphere,  the 
sudden  transition  upon  his  aged  frame  must  have  been  fatal. 

During  the  period  we  remained  upon  the  island  we  were  enter- 
tained at  the  board  of  the  natives,  sometimes  dining  with  one  per- 
son, and  sometimes  with  another :  their  meals,  as  1  have  before 
stated,  were  not  confined  to  hours,  and  always  consisted  of  baked 
pig,  yams,  and  taro,  and  more  rarely  of  sweet  potatoes. 

The  productions  of  the  island  being  very  limited,  and  inter- 
course with  the  rest  of  the  world  much  restricted,  it  may  be  readily 
supposed  their  meals  cannot  be  greatly  varied.  However  ihoy  do 
their  best  with  what  they  have,  and  cook  it  in  different  ways,  the 
pig  excepted,  which  is  always  baked.  There  are  several  goats  up- 
on the  island,  but  they  dislike  their  flesh  as  well  as  their  milk. 
Yams  constitute  their  principal  food  ;  these  are  boiled,  baked,  or 
made  into  pillihey  (cakes),  by  being  mixed  with  cocoa  nuts ;  or 
bruised  and  formed  into  a  soup.     Bananas  are  mashed,  and  made 

♦  They  have  since  been  united,  and  have  two  children. 


|l 


? 


%  -•     --*-,- 


I 


Hf 


*i 


w 


h  ^ 


s*.i 


VOYACiK  TO  TUK   I'ACIVlt 


[Dec. 


into  |)anrakcs,  or,  like  the  yam,  uiiiteil  wiili  tlio  milk  of  the  cocoa- 
nut,  into  pillilu'} ,  and  eaten  with  molasses,  extiacte<l  from  the  tec 
root.  The  taro  root,  hy  heinu;  rul)he(l,  makes  a  very  ji;ootl  snhsii- 
tiite  for  hread,  as  well  as  the  bananas,  plantain,  and  appai.  Their 
connnon  beverage  is  pure  water,  but  they  made  for  us  a  tea,  ex- 
tracted  from  the  tee-plant,  flavoured  with  gjinger,  and  sweetened 
with  the  juice  of  the  sugar-cane.  When  alone,  this  beverage  and 
fowl  soup  are  used  only  for  such  as  are  ill.  They  seldom  kill  a 
pig,  but  live  mostly  upon  fruit  and  vegetables.  The  duty  of  .say- 
ing  grace  was  performed  by  John  Hull'et,  a  recent  settler  ai.iong 
them,  and  their  clergyman  ;  but  if  he  was  not  present,  it  fell  u[)()n 
the  eldest  of  the  company.  Tlicy  have  all  a  great  dislike  to  spic- 
its,  in  consequence  of  M'Coy  having  killed  himself  by  too  free  an 
indulgence  in  it ;  but  wine  in  nioderation  is  never  refused.  With 
this  simple  diet,  and  being  in  the  daily  habit  of  rising  early,  and 
taking  a  great  deal  of  exercise  in  the  cultivation  of  their  grounds, 
it  was  not  surprising  that  we  found  them  so  athletic  and  free  from 
complaints.  When  illness  does  occur,  their  rcinedies  are  as  simple 
as  their  manner  of  living,  and  are  limited  to  salt  water,  hot  ginger 
tea,  or  abstinence,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  complaint.  They 
have  no  medicines,  nor  do  they  appear  to  require  any,  as  these 
remedies  have  hitherto  been  found  sulliciont. 

After  their  noontide  meal,  if  their  grounds  do  not  require  their 
attention,  and  the  weather  be  fine,  they  go  a  little  way  out  to  sea 
in  their  canoes,  and  catch  fish,  of  which  they  have  several  kinds, 
large  and  sometimes  in  abundance ;  but  it  seldom  happens  that 
they  have  this  time  to  spare ;  for  the  cultivation  of  the  ground,  rc- 
j)airing  their  boats,  houses,  and  making  fishing-lines,  with  other  em- 
ployments, generally  occupy  the  whole  of  each  day.  At  sunset 
they  assemble  at  pntycrs  as  before,  first  offering  their  orison  ami 
thanksgiving,  and  then  chaunting  hymns.  After  this  follows  their 
evening  meal,  and  at  an  early  hour,  having  again  said  their  pray- 
el's,  andchaunted  the  evening  hymn,  they  retire  to  rest;  but  before 
they  sleep,  each  person  again  oilers  up  a  short  prayer  upon  his  bed. 

Such  is  the  distribution  of  time  among  the  grown  people  ;  the  H  | 
younger  part  attend  at  school  at  regular  hours,  and  are  instructed 
in  reading,  writing,  and  arithmetic.  They  have  very  fortunately 
found  an  able  and  willing  master  in  John  I3uffet,  who  belonged  to 
a  ship  which  visited  the  island,  and  was  so  infatuated  with  their 
bdiaviour,  being  himself  naturally  of  a  devout  and  serious  turn  of 
mind,  that  he  resolved  to  remain  among  them  ;  and  in  addition  to 
the  instruction  of  the  children,  has  taken  upon  himself  the  duty  of  | 
clergyman,  and  is  the  oracle  of  the  community.*      During  the 

*  Another  seaman  has  (settled  umong'st  tlicni|  and  is  married  to  one  of  Adams') 
daughters  ;  but  he  is  not  liked. 


Ik  ■•I-  \ 


[S'io.\ 


AND  DERRlNri  y  STIIAIT. 


8» 


le  f)f  Adama! 


wliolo  time  I  was  with  tlioiu  I  never  heard  them  iiuhilj;o  in  a  joke, 
or  olli<;r  lev;  and  the  pracliec  of  it  is  apt  to  i;ive  oU'ence  :  ihcy 
are  so  accustomed  to  take  what  is  said  in  its  literal  meaning,  that 
irony  was  always  considered  a  lUlsehood  in  spite  of  explanation. 
They  could  not  see  the  propriety  of  uttering  what  was  not  strictly 
true,  for  any  purpose  whatever. 

The  Sal)bath-day  is  devoted  entirely  to  prayer,  reading,  and  seri- 
ous meditation.  No  boat  is  allowed  to  (juit  the  shore,  nor  any  work 
whatever  to  bo  done,  cooking  excepted,  for  which  preparation  i» 
made  the  preceeding  evening.  1  attended  their  church  on  this  day, 
and  found  the  service  well  conducted ;  the  prayers  were  read  by 
Adams,  and  the  lessons  by  IJuflet,  the  service  being  preceded  by 
hynms.  The  greatest  devotion  was  apparent  in  every  individual, 
and  in  the  children  tlun-e  was  a  seriousness  unknown  in  the  younger 
part  of  our  communities  al  home.  In  the  course  of  the  Litany  they 
pray  ^d  for  their  sovereign  and  royal  family  with  much  apparent  loy- 
alty and  sincerity.  Some  family  prayers,  which  were  thought  ap- 
propriate to  their  particular  crse,  were  added  to  the  usual  service ; 
and  Adams,  fearful  of  leaving  out  any  essential  part,  read  in  addi- 
tion all  those  prayers  which  arc  intended  only  as  substitutes  for 
others.  A  sermon  followed,  which  was  very  well  delivered  by  Buf- 
fet;  and  lest  any  part  of  it  should  be  forgotten  or  escape  attention, 
it  was  read  three  times.  The  whole  concluded  with  hymns,  which 
were  first  sung  by  the  grown  people,  and  afterwards  by  the  children. 
The  service  thus  performed  was  very  long  ;  but  the  neat  and  clean- 
ly appearance  of  the  congregation,  the  devotion  that  animated  eve- 
ry countenance,  and  the  innocence  and  simplicity  of  the  little  chil- 
dren, prevented  the  attendance  from  becoming  wearisome.  In  about 
half  an  hour  afterwards  we  again  assembled  to  prayers,  and  at  sun- 
set service  was  repeated ;  so  that,  with  their  morning  and  evening 

-  jjrayers  they  may  be  said  to  have  church  five  times  on  a  Sunday. 

Marriages  and  christenings  are  duly  performed  by  Adams.     A 
ring  which  has  united  every  person  on  the  island  is  used  for  the  oc- 

\  casion,  and  given  according  to  the  prescribed  form.  The  age  at 
which  this  is  allowed  to  take  place,  with  the  men,  is  after  they  have 
reached  their  twentieth,  and  with  the  women,  their  eighteenth  year. 
All  which  remains  to  be  said  of  these  excellent  people  is,  that 
they  appear  to  live  together  in  perfect  harmony  and  contentment ; 
to  be  virtuous,  religious,  cheerful,  and  hospitable,  beyond  the  limits 
of  prudence ;  to  be  patterns  of  conjugal  and  parental  affection ; 
and  to  have  very  few  vices.     We  remained  with  them  many  days, 

;  and  their  unreserved  manners  gave  us  the  fullest  opportunity  of  be- 
coming acquainted  with  any  faults  they  might  have  possessed. 

In  the  equipment  of  the  Blossom,  a  boat  was  built  purposely  for 
her  by  Mr.  Peak  of  Woolwich  dock-yard,  upon  a  model  highly 


.  ?  ^v .' 


I'i 


I 


"1:11 


wM^ 


dG 


VOVACE  TO  THE  I'ACIFIC 


[Da. 


ciudilablc  to  his  profeH.sioiiiil  ability,  and  finished  in  tlic  most  coin- 
pit'to  niaiuier.  As  we  ueic  nuw  about  to  i-ntcr  a  sen  crowded  wjili 
islands  which  rise  al)ni|)tly  to  the  surfure,  without  any  soundings  to 
give  warning  of  tht-ir  vicinity,  this  hltlo  vessel  was  likely  to  be  of 
ll'e  greatest  service,  not  only  in  a  minute  examination  of  the  shore, 
but,  by  being  ke|)t  a-head  of  the  ship  during  the  night,  to  give  no- 
tice  of  any  danger  that  might  lie  in  her  route.  She  was  accordini^. 
ly  hoisted  out  while  we  were  off  this  island,  and  stowed  and  provis. 
ior.ed  for  six  weeks.  I  gave  the  conniiand  of  her  to  Mr.  Elson,  the 
master,  an  ofTicer  well  qualified  to  perforn;  the  service  I  had  in 
view ;  having  with  him  Mr.  K.  Beechey,  midshipman,  and  a  crew 
of  eight  seamen  and  marines.  Instructions  were  given  to  Mr.  El- 
son  for  his  guidance,  and  proper  rendevous  appointed  in  case  of  sop. 
aration.  We  first  oxperiencod  the  utility  of  this  excellent  sea-boat, 
in  bringing  oft'  water  from  the  shore  through  seas  which  in  ordinary 
cases  would  have  proved  serious  obstacles ;  and  had  there  not  been 
so  much  surf  upon  the  rocks,  that  the  casks  could  only  be  got  througli 
it  by  the  natives  swimming  out  with  them,  we  should  in  a  short 
time  have  com])letcd  our  stock  of  water.  This  process,  however, 
was  very  harrassing  to  them,  who,  besides  this  arduous  task,  had  to 
bring  the  water  from  a  distance  in  calabashes ;  so,  that  with  the  ut- 
most despatch,  our  daily  supply  scarcely  equalled  the  consumption, 
and  we  were  compelled  to  trust  to  the  hope  of  being  more  fortunate 
at  some  other  island.  I 

During  the  period  of  our  stay  in  the  vicinity  of  the  island,  we 
scarcely  saw  the  sun,  and  I  began  to  despair  of  being  able  to  fix  our 
position  with  sufiicient  accuracy.     On  the  20th,  however,  the  clouds  | 
cleared  away,  and  the  night  was  passed  in  obtaining  lunar  distances 
with  stars  east  and  west  of  the  moon,  several  meridional  altitudes, 
and  transits  which,  compared  with  those  taken  the  first  night  the  in- 
strument was  put  up,  gave  good  rates  to  the  chronometers.     Our 
labours  having  thus  terminated  more  successfully  than  we  expected, 
we  hastened  our  embarkation,  which  took  place  on  the  21st.    In 
return  for  the  kindness  we  experienced  from  the  islanders,  we  made : 
them  presents  of  articles  the  most  useful  to  them  which  we  could  j 
spare,  and  they  were  furnished  with  a  blue  cloth  suit  each  from  the ' 
extra  clothing  put  on  board  for  the  ship's  company,  and  the  women 
with  several  pieces  of  gowns  and  handkerchiefs,  &lc. 

When  we  were  about  to  take  leave,  our  friends  assembled  to  ex- 
press their  regret  at  our  departure.  AH  brought  some  little  present 
for  our  acceptance,  v.hich  they  wished  us  to  keep  in  remembrance 
of  them  ;  after  which  they  accompanied  us  to  the  beach,  where  we 
took  our  leave  of  the  female  part  of  the  inhabitants.  Adams  and 
the  young  men  pushed  off  in  their  own  boat  to  the  ship,  determined 
to  accompany  us  to  sea  as  far  as  they  could  with  safety.     They 


[Dec. 

nost  coin- 
i\v(I(mI  with 
)undiiii;s  to 
lo  be  of 
'  the  slioru, 
o  give  no- 
accoriliiii;. 
md  provis- 
£lsoii,tlic 
;e  I  had  in 
ind  a  crew 

0  Mr.  El. 
case  of  sop- 
iit  sea-boat, 
in  ordinary 
ro  not  l)cen 
got  tbrout;li 

1  in  a  slion 
,  however, 
task,  hail  lu 
ivith  the  ut- 
•nsumption. 
•e  fortunate 

;  island,  we 
le  to  fix  our 
,  the  clouds 
\r  distances 
1  altitudes, 
ight  the  ill- 
iters.  Our 
e  expected, 

21st.    In 
•s,  we  made  ^ 
1  we  could  |i'  '■■' 

h  from  the 
the  women 

jled  to  ex- 
ttle  prescni 
nembrance 
,  where  we 
^dams  and 
determined 
ty.     They 


lfl25.] 


ANT)  DKERINn  S  RTnAIT. 


81 


continued  on  board,  iinwilli.'ig  to  leave  us,  until  wc  were  a  consi<l- 
erable  distance  from  land,  when  they  sh(K)k  each  ofns  reeliiigly  by 
tlie  hand,  and,  uniidst  expressions  of  the  deepest  concern  at  ourde- 
parture,  wished  us  a  prosperous  voyage,  and  hoped  that  we  might 
one  day  meet  again.  As  soon  as  they  were  clear  of  the  ship,  they 
all  stood  up  in  the  boat,  and  gave  us  three  hearty  cheers,  which 
were  as  heartily  returned.  As  the  weather bccanie  foggy,  the  barge 
towed  them  towards  the  shore,  and  wo  took  a  final  leave  of  thern, 
unconscious  until  the  moment  ofscjiaration  of  the  warm  interest  their 
situation  and  good  conduct  had  created  in  us. 

The  Pitcairn  islanders  are  tall,  robust,  and  healthy.  Their  av- 
erage height  is  five  feet  ten  inches ;  the  tallest  person  is  six  feet 
land  one  quarter  of  an  inch  ;  and  the  shortest  of  the  adults  is  five 
feet  nine  inches  and  one  eighth.  Their  limbs  are  well-proportioned, 
round  and  straight ;  their  feet  turning  a  little  inwards.  The  hoys 
promise  to  be  equally  as  tall  as  their  fa*'.'' 's;  one  of  them  whom 
we  measured  was,  at  eight  ycais  of  age,  fou  •  i  ct  one  inch  ;  and  an- 
other, at  nine  years,  four  feet  three  inches.  Their  simple  food  and 
early  habits  of  exercise  give  them  a  "luscular  power  and  activity 
iDot  often  surpassed.  It  is  recorded  t.Mong  tlie  feats  of  strength 
hicli  these  people  occasionally  evince,  that  two  of  the  strongest 
on  the  island,  George  Young  and  Edward  Qi.intal,  have  each  car- 
ed, at  one  time,  without  inconvenience,  a  kcdge  anchor,  two  sledge 
ammers,  and  and  armourer's  anvil,  amounting  to  upwards  of  six 
undred  weight ;  and  that  Quintal,  at  another  time,  carried  a  boat 
twenty-eight  feet  in  length.  Their  activity  on  land  has  been  alicady 
mentioned.  I  shall  merely  give  another  instance  wh'ch  has  been 
supplied  by  Lieutenat  Belcher,  who  was  admitted  to  be  the  most 
[active  among  the  officers  on  board,  and  who  did  not  consider  him- 
|8elf  behindhand  in  such  exploits.  He  offered  to  accompany  one  of 
he  natives  down  a  difficult  descent,  in  spite  of  the  warnings  of  his 
friend  that  he  was  unequal  to  the  task.  They,  however,  commec- 
ed  the  perilous  descent,  but  Mr.  Belcher  was  obliged  to  confess  his 
inability  to  proceed,  while  his  companion,  perfectly  assured  of  his 
own  footing,  offered  him  his  hand,  and  undertook  to  conduct  him  to 
the  bottom,  if  he  would  depend  on  him  for  safety.  In  the  water 
they  are  almost  as  much  at  home  as  on  land,  and  can  remain  nearly  a 
day  in  the  sea.  They  frequently  swam  round  their  little  island,  the 
circuit  of  which  is  at  least  seven  miles.  When  the  sea  beat  heav- 
ily on  the  island  they  have  plunged  into  the  breakers,  and  swam  to 
sea  beyond  them.  This  they  sometimes  did  pushing  a  barrel  of 
water  before  them,  when  it  could  be  got  off  in  nootlier  way,  and 
in  this  manner  we  procured  several  tons  of  water  without  a  single 
cask  being  stove. 

Their  features  are  regular  and  well-looking,  without  being  hand- 


^- 


a 


.-Mtl 


% 


W'  >  ■/■  I ' 


II 


I  r 


88 


voVaop.  to  the  fACiric 


[D. 


some.     Their  eyes  are  bright  and  generally  hazel,  though  in  oik i 
or  two  instances  they  are  blue,  and  some   liave  white  speckles  o]  I 
the  iris ;  the  eyebrows  being  thin,  and  rarely  meeting.     The  nospf 
somewhat  flat,  and  rather  extended  at  the  nostrils,  partakes  of  tlitj 
Otaheitan  form,  as  do  the  lips,  which  are  broad,  and  strongly  sulcaf 
ted.     Their  ears  are  moderately  large,  and  the  lobes  are  invarial 
united  to  the  cheek ;  they  are  generally  perforated  when  youii»  I 
for  the  reception  of  flowers,  a  very  common  custom  among  tlie  mj 
lives  of  the  South  Sea  Islands.     The  hair,  in  the  first  generation,  !>  j 
with  one  exception  only,  deep  black,  sometimes  curly,  but  geneiij 
ly  straight ;  they  allow  it  to  grow  long,  keep  it  very  clean,  and 
ways  well  supplied  with  cocoanut  oil.     Whiskers  are  not  common  i 
and  the  beards  are  thin.     The  teeth  are  regular  and  white  ;  but  anl 
often,  in  the  males,  disfigured  by  a  deficiency  in  enamel,  and  bybel 
ing  deeply  furrowed  across.     They  have  generally  large  heads,  e!| 
evated  in  the    line  of  the  occiput.     A  line  passed  above  the  eye. 
brows,  over  the  ears,  and  round  the  back  of  the  head,  in  a  line  will 
the  occipital  spine,  including  the  hair,  measured  twenty-two  inclij 
es ;  another,  twenty-one  inches  and  three-quarters ;  and  in  Pollvl 
Young,  surnamed  Bighead,  twenty-three   inches, — the  hair  woiikj 
make  a  difference  of  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch.     The  corona] 
region   is   full  j  the  forehead  of  good  height  and  breadth,  giving  ar| 
agreeable  openness  to  the  countenance  ;  the  middle  of  the   coronil 
suture  is  rather  raised  above  the  surrounding  parts.     Their  com] 
plexion,   in  the  first  generation,   is,  in  general,  a  dark  gipsy  line  [ 
there  are,  however,  exceptions  to  this ;  some  arc  fairer,  and  otherij 
Joseph  Christian  in  particular,  much  da*ltrer.* 

The  skin  of  these  people,  though  in  such  robust  health,  conipirl 
ed  with  our  own  always  felt  cold ;  and  their  pulses  were  considcral 
bly  lower  than  ours.  Mr.  Collie  examined  several  of  them  :  m  tlifji 
forenoon  he  found  George  Young's  only  sixty;  three  others,  intliei 
afternoon,  after  dinner,  were  sixty-eight,  seventy-two,  and  seventy, 
six ;  while  those  of  the  officers  who  stood  the  heat  of  the  cliniatf^ 
best  were  above  eighty.  Constant  exposure  to  the  sun,  and  earM 
training  to  labour,  make  these  islanders  look  at  least  eight  ycai  ^ 
older  than  they  really  are. 

The  women  are  nearly  as  musclar  as  the  men,  and  taller  'liar 
the  generality  of  their  sex.     Polly  Young,  who  is  not  the  talltM  _. 
upon  the  island,  measured  five  feet  nine  inches  and  a  half.     Acni-^ 
tomed  to  perform  all  domestic  duties,  to  provide  wood  for  cookiii 
which  is  there  a  work  of  some  labour,  as  it  ni'.ist  be  brought  fin 
the  hills,  and  sometimes  to  till  the  ground,  their  strength  is  in  jiio-l 

♦This  man  was  idiotic,  and  dilTorcd  po  nmhiially  from  the  others  in  colour,  tlisl 
Ik' is  in  all  probability  llio  o(Vr!|)riuEr  of  the  mm  of  colour  who  accompanieil  iIkI 
mutineers  to  the  island,  and  who,  unless  he  be  one,  have  left  no  progeny. 


>J 


\U 


WK 


AKD  BEERINO's  STRAIT. 


89 


Iportion  to  their  muscularity ;  and  they  are  no  less  at  home  in  the 
[water  than  the  men. 

The  food  of  tho  islanders  consists  almost  entirely  of  vegetable 
abstances.  On  particular  occasions,  such  as  marriages  or  christen- 
igs,  or  when  visited  by  a  ship,  they  indulge  in  pork,  fowls,  and 
sh.  Although,  as  has  already  been  mentioned,  they  discovered 
method  of  distilling  a  spirit  from  the  tee-root,  the  miseries  it  en- 
ailed  on  them  have  taught  them  to  discontinue  the  use  of  it,  and 
to  confine  themselves  strictly  to  water,  of  which  during  meals, 
khey  partake  freely,  but  they  seldom  use  it  at  other  times.  The 
spirit,  which  was  first  distilled  by  M'Coy,  and  led  to  such  fatal  con- 
lequences,  bears  some  affinity  to  peat-reeked  whisky. 

The  treatment  of  their  children  differs  from  that  of  our  own  coun- 

ry,  as  the  infant  is  bathed  three  times  a  day  in  cold  water,  and  is 

jmetimes  not  weaned  for  three  or  four  years ;  but  as  soon  as  that 

akes  place  it  is  fed  upon  "popoe,"  made  with  ripe  plantains  and 

jiled  taro  rubbed  into  paste.     Upon  this  simple  nourishment  chil- 

ren  are  reared  to  a  more  healthy  state  than  in  other  countries,  and 

re  free  froni   fevers  and  other  complaints  peculiar  to  the  greater 

portion  of  the  world.     Mr.  Collie  remarks  in  his  journal,  thatnoth- 

ig  is  more  extraordinary  in  the  history  of  the  island  than  the  uni- 

jrm  good  health  of  the  children ;  the  teething  is  easily  got  over, 

icy  have  no  bowel  complaints,  and  are  exempt  from  those  conta- 

^ous  diseases  which  affect  children  in  large  communities.     He  of- 

»red  to  vaccinate  the  children  as  well  as  all  t)ie  grown  persons ; 

j»ut  they  deemed  the  risk  of  infection  to  be  too  small  to  render  that 

operation  necessary. 

In  rainy  weather,  and  after  the  occasional  visits  of  vessels,  the 

slanders  are  more  affected  with  plethora  and  boils  than  at  other 

periods ;  to  the  former  the  whole  population  appear  to  be  inclined, 

It  they  are  usually  relieved  from  its  effects  by  bleeding  at  the  nose  ; 

id,  without  searching  for  the  real    ause,  they  have  imbibed  a  belief 

lat  these  diseases  are  contagious,  and  derived  from  a  communica- 

|on  with  their  visiters,  although  there  may  not  be  a  single  case  of 

le  kind  on  board  the  ship.     The  result  naturally  leads  to  such  a 

inclusion ;  but  a  little  reflection  ought  to  have  satisfied  them,  that 

deviation  from  their  established  habits,  an  unusual  indulgence  in 

linial  food,  and  additional  clothing,  were  ol  themselves  sufficient 

account  for  the  maladies.     They  are,  however,  unaccustomed  to 

ace  effects  to  latent  causes.     Hence  tliey  assert,  that  the  Brltou 

Bft  iliem  headaches  and  flies;  a  whaler  infected  with  the  scurvy 

ibr  which  several  of  her  crew  j)ursued  the  old  remedy  of  burying 

IJe  jtpople  up  to  the  necks  in  the  earth)  left  tliem  a  legacy  of  boils 

id  other  sores  ;  and  though  we  had  no  diseases  on  board  the  Blos- 

3ni,  (hey  fully  expected  to  bo  affected  by  some  cutaneous  disorder 

vor..  1.  12 


";*•»? 


90 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Dec. 


■ti" 


"  >■" 


i 


>i    .( 


after  our  departure ;  and  even  attributed  some  giddiness  and  head- 1 
aches  that  were  felt  during  our  stay  to  infection  from  the  ship's 
company. 

Tlie  women  have  all  learned  the  art  of  midwifery :    parturition ! 
generally  takes  place  during  the  nighttime ;   the  duration  of  labour 
is  seldom  longer  than  five  hours,  and  has  not  yet  in  any  case  proveii  | 
fatal.     There  is  no  instance  of  twins,  nor  of  a  single  miscarriage, 
except  from  accident. 

We  found  upon  Pitcairn  Island,  cocoa-nuts,  bread-fruit  (artocar- 
pus  incisa),  plantains  (nmsa  paradaisaca),  bananas  (musa  sapUn-] 
turn),  water-melons  (cucurbita  citrullus),  pumpkins  (cucurbit a  pi.\ 
po),  potatoes  (solanum  esculentum),  sweet  potatoes  (convohukl 
batatas),  yams  (dioscoria  sativum),  taro  (caladium  esculentim). 
peas,  yappai*  (arum  costatum),  sugar-cane,  ginger,  turmeric,  tobac-l 
CO,  tee-plant*(</rocrEna  terminaJis),  doodoe*  (aleurites  triloha\\ 
nono*  (morinda  citrifolia),  another  species  of  morinda,  parau*(^i.| 
biscus  tiliaceus),  fowtoo*  (hibiscus  tricuspis),  the  cloth-tree  (brom 
sonetiapapyrifera),  pawalla*  (pandanus  odoratissimus)?  tnonenH'l 
(?),  and  banyan-tree.  A  species  of  metrosideros,  and  several  spef 
cies  of  ferns. 

The  first  twelve  of  these  form  the  principal  food  of  the  inhabi-i 
tants.     The  sugar-cane  is  sparingly  cultivated ;  they  extract  fromi 
it  a  juice  which  is  used  to  flavour  the  tea  of  such  as  are  ill,  1 
pounding  the  cane,  and  boiling  it  with  a  little  ginger  and  cocoam!| 
grated  into  a  pulp,  as  a  substitute  for  milk.     In  this  manner  a  pleas-l 
ant  beverage  is  produced.     The  tee-plant  is  very  extensively  cujT 
tivated.     Its  leaves,  which  are  broad  and  oblong,  are  the  commoil 
food  of  hogs  and  goats,  and  serve  the  natives  for  wrappers  in  tlieil 
cooking.     The  root  aftbrds  a  very  saccharine   liquor,  reseniblinl 
molasses,  which  is  obtained  by  baking  it  in  the  ground  ;  it  require! 
two  or  three  years  after  it  is  planted  to  arrive  at  the  proper  sizefe 
use,  being  then  about  two  inches  and  a  half  in  diameter ;  it  is  hmA 
fusiform,  and  beiiet  with  fibres:  from  this  root  they  a'so  makeatei;!* 
which  when  flavoured  with  ginger  is  not  unpleasant.     The  doodotp 
is  a  large  tree  with  a  handsome  blossom,  and  supplies  ornaments  l'o;[ 
the  ears  and  hair,  and  nuts  containing  a  considerable  quantity  of  oil] 
which,  by  being  strung  upon  sticks,  serve  the   purpose  of  candle:] 
The  porou  and  fowtoo  are  trees  which   supply  them   with  fisliin;'^ 
lines,  rope,  and  cord  of  all  sorts.     The  tree  is  stripped  of  the  barii 
while  the  sap  is  in  full  circulation,  and  dried  ;  a  fibrous  substanceiil 
then  procured  from  it,  which  is  twisted  for  use  ;  but  it  is  not  strond 
and  is  very  perishable. 


♦  Native  names.— A  more  correct  account  of  the  botany  will  be  published  byD; 
Hooker,  Professor  of  Botany,  &c.  of  Glasgow. 


I'       ( 


is  not  strond 


1825.] 


AND  BEERIIfO'S  STRAIT. 


91 


The  cloth-tree  is  pre-eminently  useful ;  and  here,  as  in  all  places 
iin  the  South  Seas,  where  it  grows,  supplies  the  natives  with  cloth- 
ling.  The  manner  in  which  the  cloth  is  manufactured  has  been  fre- 
luently  described,  and  needs  no  repetition.  There  is  however,  a 
shion  in  the  beater,  some  preferring  a  broad,  others  a  very  closely 
ibbed  garment ;  for  which  purpose  they  have  several  of  these  in- 
struments with  large  and  small  grooves.  If  the  cloth  is  required  to 
be  brown,  the  inner  bark  of  which  the  cloth  is  made  is  wrapped 
_  banana  leaves,  and  put  aside  for  about  four  days  ;  it  is  then  beat- 
en into  a  thick  doughy  substance,  end  again  left  till  fermentation  is 
about  to  take  place,  when  it  is  taken  out,  and  finally  beat  into  a 
rarment,  both  lengthwise  and  across.  The  colour  thus  produced  is 
jf  a  deep  redish  brown  hue.  The  pieces  are  generally  sufficiently 
karge  to  wrap  round  the  whole  body,  but  they  are  sometimes  di- 
ided. 

The  toonena  is  a  large  tree,  from  which  their  houses  and  canoes 
re  made.  It  is  a  hard,  heavy,  red-coloured  wood,  and  grows  on 
[the  upper  parts  of  the  island.  There  was  formerly  a  great  abund- 
ice  of  this  wood,  but  it  is  now  become  so  scarce  as  to  require  con- 
siderable search  and  labour  to  find  sufficient  to  construct  a  house. 
The  young  trees  have  thriven  but  partially,  arriving  at  a  certain 
wowth,  and  then  stopping.  A  tree  of  this  kind,  which  was  the 
largest  in  the  island,  measured,  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  twelve  fe';t 
I  circumference  ;  another  was  nine  feei  seven  and  a  half  inches  ;:^ 
;irth,  at  five  feet  from  the  root ;  its  trunk  grew  to  the  height  of  thir- 
feet,  perfectly  straight,  and  without  branching. 
The  banyan  is  one  of  those  largest  spreading  trees  common  in 
[ndia.  Nature  has  been  so  provident  to  this  island,  that  there  are 
irery  few  trees  in  it  which  cannot  be  turned  to  account  in  some  way, 
id  this  tree,  though  it  yields  no  fruit  and  produces  wood  so  hard 
id  heavy  as  to  be  unserviceable,  still  contributes  to  the  assistance 
)f  the  islanders,  by  supplying  them  with  a  resin  for  the  seams  of 
their  boats,  &;c.  This  useful  substance  is  procured  by  perforating 
the  bark  of  the  tree,  and  extracting  the  liquor  which  exudes  through 
hhe  aperture. 

We  saw  Jyes  of  three  colours  only  in  Pitcairn  Island,  yellow, 
Ired,  and  brown.  The  yellow  is  procured  from  the  inner  bark  of 
[the  root  of  the  nono  tree  {morinda  citrifoHa),  and  also  from  the 
Iroot  of  a  species  of  ginger.  We  did  not  see  this  plant  growing,  but 
lit  was  described  as  having  leaves  brouder  and  longer  than  the  com- 
lon  ginger,  a  thicker  root  in  proportion  to  its  length,  a  darker  hue, 
Fand  not  so  tubercular.  The  red  dye  is  procured  from  the  inner 
Ibark  of  thu  doodoe  tree,  and  may  have  its  intensity  varied  by  more 
lor  less  exposure  to  the  rays  of  the  sun  while  drying.  These  dyes 
{are  well  coloured,  but  for  want  of  proper  mordants  the  natives  can- 


'0:  . 


-m 


^i'  *l 


92 


VOTAOS  to  THE  PACIFIC 


[Dec, 


not  fix  them,  and  tliey  must  be  renewed  eveiy  time  the  linen 
washed.     The  method  of  producing  the  brown  dye  has  aheady 
been  described.  I 

The  temperate  cHniute  of  Pitcairn  Island  is  extremely  favourable  ■ 
to  vegetation,  and  agriculture  is  attended  with  comparatively  ligli|| 
labour.  But  as  the  population  is  increasing,  and  wants  are  genera- 1 
ted  which  were  before  unthought  of,  the  natives  find  it  necessarvl 
to  improve  their  mode  of  culture ;  and  for  this  purpose  they  make  I 
use  of  sea-weed  as  manure.  They  grow  but  one  crop  in  a  year  oil 
each  kind.  The  time  of  taking  up  yams,  &;c.  is  about  April 
The  land  is  not  allowed  time  to  recove_-  itself,  but  is  planted  again i 
immediately.  Experience  has  enabled  tliem  to  estimate,  with  tol-f 
erable  precision,  the  quantity  that  will  be  required  for  the  annuaij 
consumption  of  the  island  ;  this  they  reckon  at  1000  yams  to  eaclif 
person.  The  other  roots,  being  considered  more  as  luxuries,  art  f 
cultivated  in  irregular  quantities.  The  failure  of  a  crop,  so  exani, 
estimated,  must  of  course  prove  of  serious  consequence  to  the  coil 
ony,  and  much  anxiety  is  occasionally  felt  as  the  season  approaclieij 
for  gathering  it.  At  times  cold  south-westerly  winds  nip  the  younj 
plants,  and  turn  such  as  are  exposed  to  them  quite  black :  duiiiJ 
our  visit  several  plantations  near  the  sea-coast  were  affected  in  tliiil 
manner.  At  other  times,  caterpillars  prove  a  great  source  of  an  i 
noyance. 

The  yam  is  reproduced  in  the  same  manner  as  potatoes  in  Eiic-i 
land.  The  taro  (caladium  escuhntum)  requires  either  a  yoiiii!| 
s  loot  to  be  broken  off  and  planted,  or  the  stem  to  be  removed  froiij 
the  root,  and  pianted  after  the  manner  of  raising  pine-apples.  Tlij 
yappe  is  a  root  very  similar  to  the  taro,  and  is  treated  in  the  saiiJ 
manner.  All  the  above-mentioned  farinaceous  roots  thrive  exj 
tremely  well  in  Pitcairn  Island  ;  but  this  is  not  the  case  with  En;, 
lish  potatoes,  which  cannot  be  brought  even  to  a  moderate  growiiJ 
Peas  and  beans  yield  but  very  scanty  crops,  the  soil  being  proballtl 
too  dry  for  them,  and  are  rarely  seen  at  the  repasts  of  the  nativeij 
Onions,  so  universally  dispersed  over  the  globe,  cannot  be  made  Kl 
thrive  here.  Pumpkins  and  water-melons  bear  exceedingly  welll 
but  the  bread-fruit;,  from  some  recent  cause,  is  beginning  to  givt^ 
very  scanty  crops  This  failure  Adams  attributes  to  some  tiwj 
being  cut  down,  that  protected  them  from  the  cold  winds,  whiciiiij 
not  improbable,  for  at  Otaheite,  where  the  trees  are  expostu 
the  south-west  winds,  the  crops  are  very  indifferent.  Haviii- 
given  this  short  sketch  of  the  soil  and  vegetation  of  the  island.! 
shall  add  a  few  words  on  the  climate  and  winds. 

The  island  is  situated  just  without  the  regular  limit  of  the  trade- 
winds,  which,  however,  sometimes  reach  "it.     When  this  is  ihfl 
case,  the  weather  is  generally  fine  and  settled.     The  soutli-\vesi| 


AND  BEERINO'S  STRAIT. 


98 


and  north-west  winds,  which  blow  strong  and  bring  heavy  rains, 

are  the  chief  intermptions  to  this  serenity.     Though  they  have  a 

I  rainy  season,  it  is  not  so  limited  or  decided  as  in  places  niore  within 

the  influence  of  the  trade-winds.     During  the  period  of  our  visit, 

from  the  5th  of  December  to  the  21st,  we  had  strong  breezes  from 

N.  E.  to  S.  E.,  with  the  sky  overcast.     The  wind  then  shifted  to 

fN.  W.,  and  brought  a  great  deal  of  rain  :    though  in  the  height  of 

;  summer,  we  had  scarcely  a  fine  day  during  our  stay. 

The  temperature  of  the  island  during  the  above  period  was  70 
1-2°.  On  shore  the  range  from  nine  a.  m.  to  three  p,  m.  was 
j  76°  to  80° :  on  board  at  the  same  time  from  74°  to  76°.  Taking 
\  the  difference  between  these  comparisons,  we  may  place  the  mean 
I  temperature  on  shore  for  the  above-mentioned  period  at  76  1  -2°. 
\  In  the  winter  the  south-westerly  winds  blow  very  cold,  and  even 
snow  has  been  known  to  fall. 

The  number  of  persons  on  Pitcairn  Island  in  December,  1825, 
I  amounted  to  sixty-six,  and  for  the  information  of  such  as  may  be 
[disposed  to  give  their  particular  attention  to  such  an  inquiry,  I  sub- 
join a  notice  of  the  population  from  the  period  of  its  first  establish- 
ment on  the  island. 


ih 


The  first  settlers  consisted  of 

27  Total. 
Of  these  were  killed  in  the  quarrel 


{  white 
(  coloured 


Males. 
.      9 
G 

15 


by  accident 

died  a  natural  death 


(  win 

(cok 


liite 
loured 
white 


G 
6 
1 
1 


1  went  away. 


Total  deaths  14 


The  original  settlers  therefore  whom  we  found  on  the  )    , 

jslaiid  were S 

The  children  of  the  wliitc  settlers  (the  men  of  colour  '  |  ,^ 

having  left  none) J 

Their  grandchildren 22 

RrcCMt  settlers 2 

Child  of  one  of  them 1 


6G  present  population. 


36 


Females. 
0 

la 

19 

"o 

0 
3 


10 

15 
0 
0 

30 


The  total  number  of  children  left  by  the  white  settlers  was  four- 
teen, of  wiiom  two  died  a  natural  death  ;  one  was  seized  with  fits, 
to  which  he  was  subject,  while  in  the  water,  and  was  drowned  ; 
and  one  was  killed  by  accident,  leaving  ten,  as  above.  Of  the 
grandchildren,  or  second  generation,  there  was  also  another  male 
who  died  an  accidental  death.     There  have,  therefore,  been  sixty- 


^ 


i 


94 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Dec. 


1*  <j 


two  births  in  the  period  of  thirty-five  years,  from  the  23d  Januan-, 
1790,  to  the  23d  December,  1825,  and  only  two  nat  ral  deaths. 

In  a  climate  so  temperate,  with  but  few  probabilit  es  of  infec- 
tion,  with  simple  diet,  cleanly  habits,  moderate  exercise,  and  j 
cheerful  disposition,  it  was  to  be  expected  that  early  mortality 
would  be  of  rare  occurrence ;  and  accordingly  we  find  in  this 
small  community  that  the  difference  in  the  proportion  of  deaths  to 
births  is  more  striking  than  even  in  the  most  healthy  European 
nations. 


Hir 


'•) 


|K'*i^i 


1^9^'  '  » 


n. 


"il 


'  ^ 


^^H 

(^ 

[Dec,  ■ 

1825.] 

Id  January-,  ^H 

1 

al  deaths.    S|| 

_, 

;s  of  infec.  '    h 

cise,  and  a  '    ^ 

y  mortality  t^'M. 

ind  in  this  HH 

k 

)f  deaths  to  ^H 

f 

European  ^H 

» 

AND  BEERING  S  STRAIT. 


96 


5      'ii- 


CHAPTER  V. 


Visit  Oeno  Island — Description  of  it — Loss  of  a  boat  and  one  Seaman — Narrow  es- 
cape of  the  Crew — Crescent  Island — Gambicr  Groupe — Visited  by  Natives  on 
Rafls — Discover  a  passag'c  into  the  Lagoon — Ship  enters — Interview  with  the  Na- 
tives— Anchor  off  two  Streams  of  Water — Visited  by  the  Natives — Theft — Com- 
munication with  them  suspended — Moral — Manner  of  preserving  the  Dead- 
Idols  and  Places  of  Worship. 

As  soon  as  Adams  and  his  party  left  us  we  spread  every  sail  in 

'the  prosecution  of  our  voyage,  and  to  increase  our  distance  from  a 

■  climate  in  which  we  had  scarcely  had  the  decks  dry  for  sixteen 

j  days ;  but  the  winds  were  so  light  and  unfavourable,  that  on  the 

following  morning  Pitcaim  Island  was  still  in  sight.     The  weather 

was  hazy  and  moist,  and  the  island  was  overhung   with    dense 

I  clouds,  which  the  highlands  seemed  to  attract,  leaving  no  doubt 

{ with  us  of  a  continuation  of  the  weather  we  had  experienced  while 

'there.     At  night  there   was  continued  lightning  in  this  direction. 

Several  birds  of  the  pelican  tribe  (pelicanus  leucocephahis)  settled 

Lupon  the  masts,  and  allowed  themselves  to  be  taken  by  the  sea- 

fmen. 

About  ninety  miles  to  the  northward  of  Pitcairn  Island  there  is 
[a  coral  fonnation,  which  has  been  named  Oeno  Island,  after  a  whale 
fillip,  whose  master  supposed  it  had  not  before  been  seen ;   but  the 
[discovery  belongs  to  Mr.  Henderson  of  the  Hercules.     It  is  so  low 
I  that  it  can  be  discerned  at  only  a  very  few  miles'  distance,  and  is 
highly  dangerous  to  a  night  navigation.     As  this  was  the  next  island 
I  intended  to  visit,  every  effort  was  made  to  get  up  to  it ;   and  at 
;  one  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of  the  23d  December  it  was  seen  a  lit- 
tle to  leeward  of  us.     We  had  not  time  to  examine  it  that  evening, 
i  but  on  the  following  morning  we  passed  close  to  the  reefs  in  the  ship, 
in  order  to  overlook  the  lagoon  that  was  formed  within  them,  and 
to  search  narrowly  for  an  opening  into  it.     While  the  ship  took  one 
side  of  the  island,  the  barge  closely  examined  the  other,  and  we  soon 
found  that  the  lagoon  was  completely  surrounded   by    the    reef. 
Near  the  centre  of  it  there  was  a  small  island  covered  with  shrubs ; 
and  towards  the  northern  extremity,  two  "andy  islets  a  few  feet 


1 

I 


I  I 


,.  .J, 


-Jis._  -:a>w*>i. . 


;     <J 


^.   .M 


1-» 


■}'  I 


km 


.\ 


06 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Dtt 


above  tlie  water.  The  lagoon  was  in  places  fordable  as  far  as  tin, 
wooded  island ;  but,  in  other  parts,  it  appeared  to  be  two  or  tliio, 
fathoms  deep.  The  reef  is  entirely  of  coral  formation,  similar  u,! 
Ducie's  Island,  and  has  deep  water  all  round  it.  Just  clear  of  tluj 
breakers  there  are  three  or  four  fathoms  water ;  the  next  cast  findi  j 
thirteen  fathoms ;  then  follow  rapidly  thirty  fathoms,  sixty  fatlioiib 
and  no  bottom  at  a  hundred  fathoms.  We  found  the  south-westem  I 
part  of  the  reef  the  highest,  and  the  lagoon  in  that  direction  nearlv 
filled  up  as  far  as  the  island  with  growing  coral.  There  were,  (,;i 
course,  no  inhabitants  upon  so  small  a  spot ;  nor  should  we  have 
been  able  to  communicate  had  there  been  any,  in  consequence  of.j 
surf  rolling  heavily  over  all  parts  of  the  reef,  and  with  such  uno(|iij  I 
violence  that  the  treacherous  smoothness  would  one  moment  toinpf 
a  landing,  while  the  next  wave,  as  we  unfortunately  expericncii: 
would  prove  fatal  to  any  boat  that  should  hazard  it. 

Tiieutenant  Belcher  was  sent  to  ascertain  the  depth  of  water  rounfl 
the  island,  with  permission  to  land  if  unattended  with  danger;  an 
Mr.  Collie  accompanied  him,  Mr.  Barlow  being  midshipman  of  iLt' 
boat.     Pulling  round  the  island,  they  came  to  a   place  where  iln 
sea  appeared  tolerably  smooth,  and  where  in  tlie  opinion  of  lheol| 
ficers  a  landing  might  be  effected.     The  boat  was  accordingly  ai>| 
chored,  and  Messrs.  Belcher  and  Collie  prepared  to  land,  by  vecif 
ing  the  boat  into  the  surf,  and  jumping  upon  the  reef.     They  lia 
half  filled  two  life-preservers,  with  which  they  were  provided,  \vlie;| 
Mr.  Belcher  observed  a  heavy  roller  rising  outside  the  boat,  ai 
desired  the  crew  to  pull  and  meet  it,  which  was  done,  and  succe5>.| 
fully  prssed ;  but  a  second  roge  still  higher,  and  came  with  suoij 
violence  that  the  sitters  in  the  stern  of  the  L'.at  were  thrown  iniij 
the  sea ;  a  third  of  still  greater  force  carried  all  before   it,  up^tig 
the  boat,  and  rolled  her  over  upon  the  reef,  where  she  was  ulti- 
mately broken  to  pieces.     Mr.  Belcher  had  a  narrow  esca))c,  ib 
boat  being  thrown  upon  him,   the  gunwale  resting  upon  his  iied 
and  keeping  him  down  ;  but  the  next  sea  extricated  him,  and  li«; 
|i  W'ent  to  the  assistance  of  his  companions  ;  all  of  whom  were  foiluj 
^     nately  got  upon  the  reef,  except  one  young  lad,  who  probably  be 
came  entangled  with  the  coral,  and  was  drowned.     The  accident 
was  immediately  perceived  from  the  ship,  and  all  the  boats  sent  K  ;| 
the  assistance  of  the  survivors.     But  tlie  surf  rolled  so  furioiislv 
upon  the  shore  as  to  occasion  much  anxiety  about   rescuing  tlieinl 
At  last  a  small  raft  was  constructed,  and  Lieutenant  Wainwiidii 
finding  no  other  means  of  getting  a  Hue  to  them,  boldly  juiiipo(i 
overboard,  with  a  lead  line  in  his  hand,  and  suffered  himself  to  k 
thrown  upon  the  reef.     By  this  contrivance  all  the  people  were  soil 
off,  one  by  one,  though  severely  bruised  and  wounded  by  the  tonil 
and  spines  of  the  echini. 


'•« 


■  f-^*^^,.... 


11825.] 


AND    BEERING  S    STRAIT. 


97 


onient  tcmiv 


Mr.  Belcher  had  here  nnother  escape,  by  being  washed  off  the 

ift  his  trousers  getting  entangled  in  the  coral  at  the  bottom  of  a 
Jeep  cliasni.  Fortunately  they  gave  way,  and  ho  rose  to  the  sur- 
face and  by  great  elFort  swani  tiirough  the  breakers.  Lieutenant 
Wainuriglit  was  the  last  that  was  hauled  off.  To  this  young  ofli- 
cer  the  greatest  praise  is  due  for  his  bravery  and  exertions  througii- 
out.     But  for  his  resolution,  it  is  very  doubtful  whether  the  party 

eouid  have  been  rclioved  from  their  perilous  situation,  as  the  tide 

iras  rising,  and  the  surf  upon  the  reef  momentarily  increasing.  In 
Ihe  evening  we  made  sail  to  the  westward,  and  on  the  i*7th  saw 

/rcscent  Island  ;  and  shortly  afterwards  the  iiigh  land  of  Gambier's 
groupe. 

Both  these  islands  were  discovered  by  Mr.  Wilson  during  a  mis- 
sionary voyage,   but   he   had  no  communication   with  the  natives. 

lie  first  was  so  named  in  consequence  of  its  sui)poscd  form  ;  but 

fact  it  more  nearly  resembles   an  oblong.     It  is  exactly  three 

liles  and  a  half  in  length,  and  one  and  a  half  in  width,  and  of  sim- 

iv  formation  to  Oeno  and  Ducie's  Islands.     It  consists  of  a  strip 

i)f  coral  about  a  hundred  yards  or  less  in  width,  having  the  sea  on 

\>ne  side  and  a  lagoon  on  the  other.     Its  general  height  is  two  feet 

libove  the  water.     Upon  this  strip  several  small  islands,  covered 

irith  trees,  have  their  foundation.     The  soil,  where  highest,  reaches 

jst  six  feet  above  the  sea  ;  and  the  tops  of  the  trees  are  twenty  feet 

higher.     Wn  saw  about  forty  naked  inhabitants  upon  this  small  spot ; 

but  from   the  mast-head  of  the  boat,  which  overlooked  the  land, 

fcould  |)erceive  no  cultivation  ;  and  there  were   no  fruit-trees  upon 

Ihe  island  but  the  pandanus,  which  has  not  been  mentioned  in  any 

royagc  that  I  am  acquainted  with  as  constituting  a  food  for  the  na- 

ives  of  these  seas;  indeed,  from  the  fibrous  nature  of  the  nut  it 

3ars,  it  did  not  appear  to  us  possible  that  it  could  be  serviceable 

food.     We  were  consequently  curious  to  know  upon  what  the 

tives  subsisted,  independently  of  the  shell-fish  which  the  reefs 

ipplied  ;  but  nothing  occurred  to  satisfy  us   on  that  head.     The 

irf  wastoo  high  for  the  boats  to   land,  and  our  only  conmumica- 

ion  was  by  signs  and  an  exchange  of  sentences  unintelligible  on 

l)oth  sides. 

Upon  the  angles  of  the  island  there  were  three  square  stone  huts, 

kbout  six  feet  high,  witii  a  door  only  to  each  ;  they  did  not  appear 

T)be  dwelling  houses,  and  were  probably  places  of  interment  or  of 

Forship.     Several  sheds  thatched   with  the  boughs  of  trees,  some 

)pen  on  one  side  only  and  others  on  both,  which  "were  seen  on  dif- 

jront  parts  of  the  island,  were  more  appropriate  residences  in  such 

;  climate. 

The  natives  were  tall  and  well-made,  with  thick  black  hair  and 
beards,  and  were  very  much  tattooed.     Their  signs  intimated  a  dis- 

VOL.  1.  13 


f  *f.i- 


SM' 


illVP 


,:i 


i*» 


If-' 


Inig 


I 


96 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Du. 


position  to  be  friendly,  and  an  invitation  to  land,  which  wc  coii 
not  do  ;  but  none  of  thoin  ventured  to  swim  olFto  the  boats,  pruU 
ably  on  account  of  the  sharks,  which  were  very  numerous. 

We  quitted  Crescent  Island  at  day-light  on  the  29th,  an''  atmu' 
noon  the  same  day  were  close  off  Gambler's  groupe.     Several  oil 
of  these  islands  had  a  fertile  appearance,  especially  the  largest,  ot| 
which  is  situated  the  peak  we  had  seen  the  day  before,  and  wlin, 
Mr.  Wilson,  in  passing  to  tlw   northward  of  the  groujjc,  niiintij 
Mount  Duff.     It  was  probable,  that  among  these  islands  we  sliuunj 
find  a  stream  of  water  from  which  our  stock  might  be  repleuishtil 
provided  an  opening  througii  the  reef  which  surrounds  the  volcaii/ 
islands  could  be  found;  and  as  it  was  of  the  highest  importance  ilnj 
our  wants  in  this  respect  should  be  supplied,  I  determined  ciosi!- 
to  examine  every  part  of  the  groupe  for  an  entrance ;  for  in  ilj 
event  of  not  being  so  fortunate  as  to  succeed  here,  it  would  bo  mM 
cessary  to  alter  the  plan  of  operations,  and  proceed  direct  to  Oug 
heite,  the  only  place  where  a  sup])ly  of  that  indispensable  aitic!;] ' 
could  be  depended  upon.     On   approaching  the  island,  with  tlit^ 
ship,  we  were  gratified  by  perceiving  that  the  coral  chain,  which ii' 
the  northward  was  above  water,  and  covered  with  trees,  totlitl 
southward  dipped  beneath  it ;  and  though  the  reef  could  bo  tractir*! 
by  the  light  blue-coloured  sea,  still  it  might  be  sufficiently  covcr(?,|^ 
to  admit  of  the  ship  passing  over  it,  and  finding  an  anchorage  in  ilit|_ 
lagoon.     As  we  were  putting  off  from  the  ship  in  the  boats  to  niakfH 
this  interesting  inquiry,  several  small  vessels  under  sail  wereobsenl 
ed  bearing  down  to  us.     When   they  approached  we  found  the!|  | 
were  large  katamarans  or  rafts,  carrying  from  sixteen  to  twenty  nicij 
each.     At  first  several  of  them  were  fastened  together,  and  cona 
tuted  a  large  platform,  capable  of  holding  nearly  a  hundred  peijoni 
but  before  they  came  near  enough  to  communicate  they  sepaialecl 
furled  their  sails,   and  look  to  their  paddles,   of  which  there  wrffl 
about  twelve  to  each  raft.     We  were  much  pleased  with  the  inaii-|- 
ner  of  lowering  their  matting  sail,  diverging  on  different  courses,  aiii|.^ 
working  their  jjaddles,  in  the  use  of  which  they  had  great  powej 
and  were  well  skilled  plying  them  together,  or,  to  use  a  nauctic;] 
phrase,  keeping  stroke.      They  had  no  other  weapons  but  loij 
poles ;  and  were  quite  naked,  with  the  exception  of  a  banana  ieil 
cut  into  strips,  and  tied  about  their  loins,  and  one  or  two   persotr 
who  wore  white  turbans.     T'heir  timidity  in  approaching  both  l\nM 
ship  and  the  barge  was  immediately  apparent ;  but  they  had  no  ol>r 
jection  to  any  of  the  small  boats,  which  they  were  probably  awarej 
they  could,  if  necessary,  easily  upset  when  within  their  reacli ;  and, 
indeed,  it  required  considerable  caution  to  prevent  any  such  an  oc- 
currence, not  from  any  malicious  intention  on  the  part   of  the  na- 
tives, but  from  their  tiioughtlessness  and  inquisitiveness.      I  ap-j 


<fr 


•^ 


Ij825.] 


AND  BEFRnro  8  STRAIT. 


99 


I     ? 


and  coil;;. 


proaclied  them  in  the  gig,  and  gave  tlieni  several  presents,  for  wliich 
ithey,  in  return,  threw  i»  some  bundle3  of  paste  tied  up  in  large 
Heaves.     Not  knowing  at  first  what  it  was,  1  caugiit  it  in  my  arms, 
land  was  ovcijiowercd  witl>  r.n  ordcur  that  made  jne  drop  itinstant- 
|ly.     They  made  signs  that  it  was  to  be  eaten,  and  we  afterwards 
Ifoiind  it  wa:3  the  co.nmrji  food  of  the  natives.     It  was  what  is  called 
luliie  at  the  Mar(jup?.is,  but  v»llli  a  higher  gout  than  I  ever  heard 
Itliat  article  possessed  in   those  islands,  and  very  much  resembled 
the  first  opening  of  a  car;k  of  sour  krout,  though  considerably  more 
)verpowering.     We  soon  perceived  they  had  a  previous  knowledge 
if  iron,  hut  they  had  no  ifica  of  the  use  of  a  musket.     When  one 
ms  presented  to  induce  them  to  desist  from  their  riotous  conduct, 
fenstead  of  evathngthe  direction  of  the  fatal  charge,  they  approach- 
led  it;  and  imagining  the  gun  was  oftered  to  them,  they  innocently 
leld  out  their  hand  to  accept  it.     Before  we  came  close  to  them, 
they  tempted  us  with  cocovuuits  and  roots,  performed  ludicrous 
jances,  and  invited  our  a|)proach  ;  but  as  soon  as   we  were  within 
rcacii,  the  scene  was  changed  to  noise  and  confusion.     They  seiz- 
ied  the  boat  by  the  gunwale,  endeavoured  to  steal  every  thing  that 
|was  loose,  and  demanded  whatever  we  held    in  our  hand,  without 
seeniing  in  the  least  disposed  to  give  any  thing  of  their  own  in  re- 
turn.    At  length  some  of  them  grasped  the  boat's  yoke,  which  was 
lade  of  copper,  and  others  the  rudder,  which   produced  a  scuffle, 
land  obliged  me  to  fire  my  gun  over  their  heads.     Upon   the  dis- 
Icharge,  all  but  four  instantly  plunged  into  the  sea  ;  but  these,  though 
Ifor  a  moment  motionless  willi  astonishment,  held  firmly  by  the  rud- 
Ider,  until  they  were  rejoined  by  their  companions,  and  then  forcibly 
Lmadc  it  their  prize.     We  could  only  have  prevented  this  by  the 
ise  of  fire-arms,  but  I  did  not  choose  to  resort  to  such  a  measure 
|for  so  trifling  an  end,  especially   as  the  barge  was  approaching,  and 
iftbrded  the  most  likely  means  of  recovering  our  loss  without  the 
acrifice  of  life  on  their  part,  or  the  risk  of  being  upset  on  our  own. 
lAs  I  intended  to  remain  some  days  at  these  islands,  I  wished  by  all 
imeans  to  avoid  a  conflict :  at  the  same  time  it  was  '       ntial  to  our 
ffuture  tranquillity  to  show  a  resolution  to  resist  such  unwarrantable 
[conduct,  and  to  convince  them  of  our  determination  to  enforce  a  re- 
[spect  of  property.     As  soon,  therefore,  as  we  were  joined  by  the 
[barge,  we  grapjiled  the  raft  that  contained  our  nidder ;  on  which 
[the  greater  part  of  the  natives  again  threw  themselves  into  t!ie  sea ; 
[but  those  wlio  remained  appeared  derermined  to  resist  our  attack, 
land  endeavoured  to   push  the   boat  off.     Finding,  however,  they 
Icould  not  readily  do  this,  a  man  whose  long  beard  was  white  with 
[age  offered  us  the  disputed  article,  and  we  were  on  the  point  of  re- 
[ceiving  it,  which  would  have  put  an  end  to  all  strife,  when  one  of 
the  natives  disengaged  the  raft,  and  she  went  astern.     Again  free, 


i    '1 


.'«"**.- 


'<fe» 


th 


■utt. 


100 


voyag::  to  the  PACiric 


(Dec, 


I   V 


V') 


the  niddnr  was  replaced  on  the  raft,  and  the  swimmers  rccaincd 
tlieir  station.     Tiiey  were  followed  liy  the  gig  and  ioUy-hoal,  andaj 
short  skirmish  ensued,  in  which  Mr.  Elson  fell.     Iho   hoat's  crinvl 
imagining  him  hurt,  and  seeing  the  man  he  had  been  engaged  wiiti 
aiming  another  blow  at  him,  fired  and  wounded  his  asssailant  in  ilie 
shoulder.     The  man  fell  upon  the  raft,  and  his  companions,  alarm. 
ed,  threw  the  rudder  into  the  sea  and  jumped  overboard.     As  thi; 
man  took  a  very  leading  part,  he  was  probably  a   chief.     No  otlicr 
wound  was  inflicted,  nor  did  this  haj)pcn  before  it  was  merited; 
for  our  forbearance  had  extended  even  beyond  the  bounds  of  pm. 
dcnce ;  and  had  less  been  evinced,  we  should  sooner  have  gaintii 
our  point,  and  probably  have  stood  higher  in  the  estimation  of  our 
antagonists.     After  this  rencountre,  some  of  the  rafts  again  paddldi 
towards  us,  and  waved  pieces  of  white  cloth  ;  but  the  evening  lain: 
far  spent,  and  anxious  to  find  anchorage  for  the  ship,  I  proceeded  lo 
examine  the  islands.    We  passed  the  bar,  formed  by  the  chain  bofoiv. 
mentioned  dipping  underwater,  in  five,  or  seven,  and  eight  fatlioin;, 
over  a  rugged  coral  bottom,  and  entered  the  lagoon,  gradually  deci). 
ening  the  water  to  twenty-five  fathoms.     There  was  a  considoraljle 
swell  upon  the  shallow  part  of  the  reef,  but  within  it  the  water  wn 
quite  smooth.     The  first  island  we  approached  had  a  bay  forniej 
at  its  eastern  angle,  where  the  ship  might  ride  in  safety  with  aliiifM 
all  winds.     IVigiit  coming  on  we  anchored  the  boat  upon  the  hi 
and  caught  a  large   quantity  of  fish,  consisting  of  several  sorts  oi 
perca  (vittata,  maculatfi),a  labrus,  and  many  small  sharks.     Al'uitl 
daylight  we  returned  to  the   ship,  and  in  the  evening  anchored  in 
the  spot  we  had  selected  the  day  before.     As  we  entered  the  bav, 
the  natives  were  observed  collected  upon  a  low  point,  at  one  ix- 
tremity  of  it,  hallooing  and  waving  pieces  of  white  cloth.     Almosi 
all  of  them  had  long  poles,  either  pointed  or  tipped  with  hone, 
Some  had  mats  thrown  over  their  shoulders,  and  their  heads  and 
loins  covered  with  banana  leaves  cut  into  strips.     They  were  iiuicli 
startled  at  the  noise  occasioned  by  letting  go  the  anchor,  and  at  the 
chain-cable  running  out,  and  gazed  intently  at  the  dificrent  evolu- 
tions necessary  to  be  gone  through  in  bringing  the  ship  to  an  an- 
chor, in  furling  sails,  &,c. 

No  person  came  on  board  that  night ;  but  daylight  had  scarcely 
dawned  when  one  of  the  natives  paddled  offto  the  sliip  upon  asiiiail 
katamaran  :  he  was  quite  naked  had  only  a  pole  and  a  paddle  on  the 
raft.  For  a  considerable  time  ho  hesitated  to  come  alongside ;  biit 
on  our  assurring  him,  in  the  Oteheitan  language,  we  were  liis  friciiik 
he  was  persuaded  to  make  the  attempt.  "After  a  little  fiirllicr  nm- 
ciliation  lie  made  his  raft  fust  by  a  rope  that  was  thrown  to  him. 
and  ascended  the  side  of  the  ship,  striking  her  several  times  ^vith 
his  fist,  and  examining  her  at  every  step.     His  surprise  on  roach- 


^ 


■#r- 


y 


1825.] 


AND    DEERINc's    STnAIT 


101 


inc  tlie  deck  was  beyond  all  desrcription  ;  he  danced,  capered, and 
threw  himself  into  a  variety  of  attitudes,  uccoiupanyiiig  them  with 
vehement  exclamations ;  and  entered  into  conversation  with  every 
person,  not  suspecting  tliat  his  language  was  unintelligible  ;  and  was 
tgo  astonished  at  all  he  saw,  that  his  attention  wandered  from  object 
'  to  object  without  intermission.     He  very  wiUiiv^ly  accepted  every 
I  pifsc'ut  that  was  oflered  him  ;  and  having  satisfied  himself  of  our 
friendly  disposition,  hastened  on  shore  to  his  companions,  who  were 
collected  in  great  numbers  upon  the  low  point,   anxiously  awaiting 
his  return.     The  report  which  he  gave  was  undoubtedly  of  a  fa- 
vourable nature,  as  several  katamarans,  laden  with  visiters,  innnedi- 
ately  pushed  off,  and  came  fearlessly  alongside. 

The  decks  were  soon  crowded  with  delighted  spectators,  won- 
Idcring  at  every  thing  they  beheld,  and  expressing  their  feelings  by 
(ludicrous  gestures.     The  largest  objects,  such  as  the  guns  and  spars, 
greatly  attracted  their  attention  :  they  endeavoured  to  lift  them, 
with  a  view,  no  doubt,  of  bundling  them  overboard ;  but  finding 
they  could  not  be  moved,  the  smaller  articles  became  the  more  im- 
jmediate  subjects  of  curiosity  and  desire,  and  it  required  a  vigilant 
(wattli  to  prevent  their  being  carried  off.     They  were  pleased  with 
I  many  articles  that  were  shown  them  ;  but  nothing  made  them   so 
completely  happy  as  the  sight  of  two  dogs  that  we  had  on  board. 
The  largest  of  these,  of  the  Newfoundla-   .  breed,  was  big  and  surly 
enougit  to  take  cure  of  himself ;  but  the  other,  a  terrier,  was  snatch- 
led  up  by  one  of  the  natives,  and  was  so  much  the  object  of  his  so- 
j  licitation  that  it  was  only  by  force  he  was  prevented  cariying  him 
away.     To  the  people  who  had  never  seen  any  quadruped  before 
',  but  a  rat,  so  large  an  animal  as  a  Newfoundland  dog,  and  that  per- 
ifectly  domesticated  and  obedient  to  his  master,  naturally  excited 
s  intense  curiosity,  and  the  great  desire  of  these  people  to  possess 
.themselves  of  it  is  not  to  be  wondered  at.     Had  there  been  a  female 
jdog  on  board,  they  certainly  should  have  had  them  both  ;  but  one 
Iwould  have  been  of  no  use,  except,  probably,  to  furnish   a  meal, 
[which  is  the  fate  of  all  the  rats  they  can  catch. 

One  of  the  rafts  that  came  off  to  the  ship,  a  smaller  one  than 
,any  of  the  others,  brougiit  a  person  of  superior  appearance;  his 
[complexion  was  nnich  fairer  than  his  countrymen,  and  his  skin  beau- 
[tifully  tattooed;  his  features  were  of  the  true  Asiatic  character  :  he 
had  long  black  mustaches  and  hair,  and  wore  a  light  turban,  which 
[gave  him  altogether  the  ap])earance  of  a  descendant  of  Ishmael.  It 
[was  natural  to  infer  that  this  was  a  person  of  some  authority  ;  for  as 
I  yet  we  had  seen  no  distinction  whatever  between  our  visitors,  ex- 
cej)!  that  some  wore  more  unruly  than  others ;  but  we  found  we 
1  were  mistaken :  he  mingled  indiscriminately  with  his  companions, 
land  was  deficient  in  those  little  points  which  are  inseparable  from  a 


n 


20:477 


.*-^r 


.•l« 


■  i 


I , 


r  n'ifl 


103 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[D«, 


person  accustomed  to  command.  Indeed,  by  the  total  disregard 
they  paid  to  each  other,  as  also  to  every  person  in  the  ship,  we 
might  have  concluded  that  our  visiters  were  ignorant  of  any  distinc. 
tions  in  society. 

Among  the  many  katamarans  that  came  off,  not  one  of  them  I 
brought  any  articles  to  give  or  sell,  which  did  not  argue  much  in  | 
favour  of  the  suppHes  of  the  place,  or  the  good  will  of  the  islanders, 
A  green  banana,  lying  upon  one  of  the  rafts,  was  the  only  eatable  I 
thing  among  thern,  excepting  some  boiled  tee-root,  and  bundles  ol! 
that  execrable  paste,  which  they  had  provided  for  their  own  break- ! 
fast.     Almost  all  our  visiters  were  naked,  with  the  exception  ofaj 
girdle  made  of  a  banana  leaf,  cut  into  strips,  which  by  no  means  an- 
swered our  idea  of  the  intended  purpose.     Maros  were  worn  onlv ! 
by  the  aged,  and  instead  of  them  ligatures  of  straw  were  applied  in  | 
the  manner  described  at  St.  Christina  and  Nukahiwa.*     The  ave- 
rage height  of  the  islanders  was  five  feet  nine;    they  were,  gener-j 
ally  speaking,  well  made,  their  limbs  round,  without  being  muscu- 
lar, and  their  figure  upright  and  flexible.     Tattooing  was  very  ex- 
tensively practised,  in  which  respect,  as  also  in  the  arrangement  oil 
the  lines,  they  again  reminded  us  of  the  Marquesans.      This  gen- 
eral practice  in  the  South  Seas,  when  judiciously  executed,  besides  |v'| 
having  its  useful  effects,  is  highly  ornamental.     In  the  Gambler  hk^ 
landers  there  is  a  greater  display  of  taste  than  I  have  seen  or  heard  ( 
of  any  where  else,  not  excepting  the  Marquesans:    but  the  Nuka-I 
hiwers,  as  well  as  the  Otaheitans  and  others,  attend  principally  toi 
device  ;  whereas  the  Gambler  Islanders  dispose  the  lines  so  as  ma- 
terially to  improve  the  figure,  particularly  about  the  waist,  which  ai| 
a  little  distance,  has  the  appearance  of  being  much  smaller  than 
really  is.     Whether  this  has  been  accidental  or  designed  wehadii 
opportunity  of  learning. 

The  number  of  visiters  on  board  was  considerable;  yet  there  was ! 
very  little  to  interest  us  beyond  the  first  gratification  of  our  curios- 
ity.    They  were  so  engrossed  by  their  own  efforts  to  purloin  some ! 
of  the  many  things  which  they  saw,  that  it  was  impossible  to  engaje 
their  attention  in  other  matters.     It  was  besides  necessary  to  keep 
so  strict  a  watch  over  the  stores  of  the  ship,  and  their  conduct  was 
so  noisy  and  importunate,  that  our  desire  for  their  company  was] 
hourly  lessened,  and  we  were  not  sorry  when,  on  preparing  the  boats 
to  land,  we  saw  the  rafts  put  off  from  the  ship,  and  every  man  upon  I 
our  decks  throw  himself  into  the  sea  and  swim  asiiore. 

On  approaching  the  beach,  we  found  the  coral  animals  had  rear- 
ed their  structure  all  round  the  island,  and  had  brought  it  so  near  | 
to  the  surface  that  the  large  boats  could  not  come  within  two  hini- 

*  Krusenstcrn'8  Embafisy  i  ^  Japan,  4to. 


,^..^ 


[Dec, 


1825.] 


AND  BE2r.iiio  s  --.rnAiT. 


103 


il  disregard 
;he  ship,  Uf. 
any  distinc. 

ne  of  tliom 
je  muc'.i  iii 
lie  islander^. 
>nly  eatable 
I  bundles  o 
•  own  break. 
jeption  of  i 
10  means  an- 
:  worn  oil!,  ' 
c  applied  ill 

Tlie  avc."* 
t-ere,  gener-jg5;J 
sing  imiscii. 
as  very  ex- 
mgement  of| 

This  gen- 
ited,  besides 
Gambler  Is- 
sen  or  liearc! 

the  Nuka- 
•incipally  M 
3s  so  as  ma-; 
3t,  which  aii 
lUer  than  Ji 
id  we  had  iii 

et  there  was  \ 
our  ciiiios- 
irloin  son; 
e  to  enga;i' 
ly  to  kei', 
onduct  wa- 
rn pany  \va^: 
ng  the  i)oiitJ 
y  man  iijioii 

liad  riMi- 

it  so  near 

two  hun- 


dred yards  of  the  landing-place,  and  the  smaller  ones  could  approach 
only  by  inficate  windings  between  the  rocks. 

The'  natives  were  very  numerous  upon  the  shore  the  usual  pop- 
ulation being  greatly  increased  by  parties  which  curiosity  had  brouglit 
from  the  other  islands.  The  women  and  children  at  first  formed 
part  of  the  noisy  multitude,  all  of  whom  were  clamorous  for  us  to 
effect  a  landing ;  but  the  females  shortly  retired  out  of  sight,  and 
the  men  formed  themselveb  into  tv  o  lines,  and  ceremoniously  pro- 
ceeded to  a  place  where  their  katamarans  usually  disembarked,  hum- 
ming in  chorus  a  sullen  tune  not  devoid  of  harmony.  Some  of  them 
seeing  we  were  greatly  impeded  by  the  coral  rocks,  waded  out  and 
laid  hold  of  the  boats,  while  others  puf  iied  ofFupon  rafts,  and  attempt- 
ed to  drag  us  in,  by  fixing  their  poles  under  the  seats  of  the  boat, 
and  pressing  upon  the  gunwale  as  a  fulcrum ;  an  ingenious  contri- 
vance, from  which  we  found  it  difficalt  to  free  ourselves,  especially 
as  the  poles  were  very  large.  Others,  again,  prepared  cords  to  fas- 
ten the  boats  to  their  raft,  unconscious  of  our  possessing  any  instru- 
ment sufficiently  sharp  to  disengage  them.  In  short,  they  were  de- 
termined we  should  land ;  but  as  I  did  not  like  the  place,  anJ  as 
their  conduct  appeared  to  be  a  repetition  of  what  we  had  experi- 
enced outside  the  harbour,  we  disappointed  their  expectations,  and 
went  to  the  next  island. 

We  were  there  joined  by  some  of  our  visiters  who  had  been  on 
board  the  ship,  who  reminded  us  of  our  former  acquaintance,  and 
greeted  us  with  a  hearty  mb  of  their  noses  against  ours.  This  sal- 
utation, it  was  thought  by  some  of  us,  sealed  a  friendship  between 
the  parties ;  but  we  had  not  sufficient  opportunity  of  ascertaining 
whether  it  was  considered  inviolable.  The  manner  of  effecting  this 
friendly  comjjact  is  worthy  of  description.  The  lips  are  drawn  in- 
ward between  the  teeth,  the  nostrils  are  distended,  and  the  lungs 
are  widely  inflated ;  with  this  preparation,  the  face  is  pushed  for- 
ward, the  noses  brought  into  contact,  and  the  ceremony  concludes 
with  a  hearty  rub,  and  a  vehement  exclamation  or  grunt :  and  in 
proportion  to  the  warmth  of  feeling,  the  more  ardent  and  disagreea- 
ble is  tlie  salutation. 

Finding,  from  communication  with  our  friends,  that  water  was  to 
be  had  at  Mount  Duff,  we  quitted  them  and  crossed  to  that  point, 
where  we  had  the  satisfaction  to  see  two  streams  trickling  down  the 
sides  of  the  hill,  either  of  them  sufficiently  ^mple  for  our  purpose, 
and  so  situated  that  the  shij)  could,  if  necessary,  be  placed  near 
enough  to  cover  the  parties  sent  to  procure  it.  This  gratifying  dis- 
covery was  of  the  greatest  importance,  and  the  ship  was  inunediate- 
ly   removed  to  a  convenient  spot  opposite  the  place. 

We  were  late  getting  across  the  lagoon  from  our  first  anchorage, 
in  consequence  of  the  necessity  of  proceeding  with  the  utmost  caution 


7f* 


1 


!1f 


«l!- 


^^^mmmm 


.'.  «t 


104 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Jail, 


to  prevent  striking  upon  rocks  of  coral,  which  were  numerous,  and! 
in  some  instances  rose  from  twenty-eiglit  fathoms  to  within  twehf  P 
feet  of  the  surface  ;  so  that  it  was  dark  before  the  sails  were  fuikd,  j ' 
and  we  had  no  communication  with  the  natives  that  night.     Ont  | 
man  only,  probably  by  way  of  ascertaining  whether  we  kept  watch, 
paddled  silently  off  upon  a  small  katamaran  ;  but  on  being  hailed, 
went  quietly  away.     At  daylight,  the  shore  opposite  the  ship  was 
lined  with  the  natives,  and  katamarans  commenced  coming  off  to  I 
her  laden  with  visiters,  who,  encouraged  by  their  former  reception,] 
fearlessly  ascended   the  side,  and  in  a  short  time  so  crowded  tlit 
decks,  that   the  necessary  duties  of  the  crew    were    suspended  j 
Their    surprise  was,  if  possible,  greater  than  that  of  the  othei 
islanders  ;  but  it  did  not  appear  to  be  excited  by  any  particular  ol>  | 
ject. 

It  is  said  that  as  a  people  become  civilized,  their  curiosity  in- 
creases.     Here,  however,  it  was  excited  more  from  a  desire  to  av 
certain  what  was  capable  of  being  pilfered  than  from  any  thirst  fori 
knowledge.     Through  this  propensity,  every  thing  underwent  a  riirid 
examination.      We  had  taken  the  precaution  to  put  all  the  movea- 
ble articles  that  could  be  spared  below,  and  nothing  was  stolen  lroiii| 
the  upper  decks;  but  in  the  midshipmen's  berth,  things  had  notj 
been  so  carefully  secreted,  and  a  soup-tureen,  a  spyglass,  and  some! 
crockery  were  soon  missing;  the  former  was  detected  going  over! 
the  side,  and  one  of  the  tea-cups  was  observed  in  the  possession  oij 
a  person  swimming  away  from  the  ship.     This  afforded  a  favoura-, 
ble  opportunity  of  showing  our  determination  to  resist  all  such  de- 
predations ;  and  indeed  i*-  was  absolutely  necessary  to  do  so,  as  every  I 
person  appeared  to  con.  Jer  he  had  a  right  to  whatever  he  coiilil 
carry  away  willi  him ;  and  the  number  of  our  visiters  amounted  to 
double  that  of  our  own  crew,   so  that  it  was  impossible  to  watcli 
every  one  of  them.     Besides,  this  conduct,  if  not  checked  in  time. 
might  lead  to  serious  consequences,  which  I  wished  by  every  nleall^ 
to  avoid.     One  of  our  small  boats  was  consequently  sent  in^pursiii: 
of  the  thief,  who  was  swimming  at  a  considerable  rate  towards  a  lali  | 
with  his  prize  in  his  hand.      His  countrymen,  observing  that  hcMva- 
pursued,  would  not  permit  him  to  mingle  with  them,  lest  they  sjioiild 
participate  in  the  blame ;  but  he  eUuled  detection  by  diving  under- 
neath their  rafts,  until  he  became  exhausted,  when  he  throw  tlK'nip 
to  the  bowman  of  the  boat,  and  made  his  escape.    Immediatel)  tlio 
boat  was  sent  off,  all  the  rafts  left  the  sliip,  and  every  man  upon  the 
decks  jumiied  overboard  as  if  by  instinct;  but  when  tranquillity  wis 
restored,  tliCy  returned  for  fresh  plunder.     The  rapidity  with  wliiili 
the  news  of  a  theft  spreads  among  such  a  community  has  been  no- 
ticed by  Captain  Cook,  and  here  it  was  no  less  remarkable. 

1  determined,  since  the  main  deck  was  cleared,  that  it  should  l>p 


1826.  J 


AND  BEERING  S  STRAIT. 


105 


kept  so,  and  placed  a  marine  at  each  oftlie  ladders;  but  astlie  na- 
tives tried  evoiy  nictliod  to  elude  their  vigilance,  the  sentinels  had 
an  arduous  task  to  perform,  and  (hsturbances  nuist  inevitably  have 
arisen  in  the  execution  of  their  orders  had  it  not  been  for  our  New- 
I  foundland  dog.     It  fortunately  happened  that  this  animal  had  taken 
ia  dislike  to  our  visiters,  and  the  deck  being  cleared,  he  instinctively 
[placed  himself  at  the  foot  of  the  ladder,  and  in  conjunction  with  the 
'little  terrier,  who  did  not  forget  his  perilous  hug  of  the  day  before, 
[most  efFectually  accomplislicd  our  wishes.     The  natives,  who  had 
never  seen  a  dog  before,  were  in  the  greatest  terror  of  them;    and 
j  Neptune's  bark  was  soon  found  to  be  more  efficacious  than  the  point 
of  a  sentry's  bayonet,  and  much  less  likely  to  lead  to  serious  distur- 
ibances.     Besides,  his  activity  cleared  the  whole  of  the  main  deck 
[at  once,  and  supplied  the  place  of  all  the  sentinels.      Tlie  natives 
[applied  the  name  oi  boa  to  him,  a  word  which  in  the  Otaheitan  lan- 
[guage  properly  signifies  a  hog.     But  it  may  be  observed  that  boa  is 
[a])plied  equally  to  a  bull,  or  to  a  horse,  (which  they  call  bca-afac- 
\taata,  literally,  man-carrying  pig),  or  to  all  foreign  cpiadrupeds. 

Upon  one  of  the  rafts  which  came  alongside  there  was  an  elderly 
Iman  with  a  grey  beard,  dressed  in  white  cloth.  The  paddles  of  his 
[raft  were  of  superior  workmanship  to  the  others,  and  had  the  ex- 
remity  of  the  handle  ornamented  with  a  neatly  carved  human  hand. 
[He  carried  a  long  staff  of  hard  black  wood,  finely  polished,  widen- 
led  at  one  end  like  a  chisel.  But  though  he  was  thus  distinguished, 
[he  exercised  no  authority  over  his  unruly  countrymen.  Several  of 
[the  people  upon  the  rafts  had  provided  themselves  with  food,  which 
^consisted  of  boiled  root  of  the  tee-plant,  of  pearl  oysters,  and  the 
I  sour  pudding  before-mentioned.  We  endeavoured  to  temj)t  them 
J  to  taste  some  of  our  food  ;  which  they  willingly  accepted,  but  de- 
Iclined  to  partake  of  it,  and  placed  it  upon  the  raft,  with  nails,  rags, 
land  whatever  else  they  had  collected.  A  piece  of  corned  beef  that 
Iwas  given  them  passed  from  hand  to  hand  ^\  ith  repeated  looks  of 
inquiry,  until  it  was  last  deposited  in  the  general  heap.  I  took  some 
[pains  to  explain  to  them  it  was  not  human  flesh,  which  they  in  all 
Iprobability  at  first  imagined  it  to  be  ;  and  from  their  behaviour  on 
[the  occasion  I  think  it  quite  certain  they  are  not  cannibals. 

As  the  curiosity  of  one  party  of  our  visiters  became  satisfied,  they 
[quitted  the  ship,  and  others  supplied  their  place.  One  of  these  fa- 
Ivoured  us  with  a  song,  which  commenced  with  a  droning  noise,  the 
[vords  of  which  we  could  not  distinguish;  they  then  gave  three 
Ishouts,  to  which  succeeded  a  short  recitation,  followed  by  the  dron- 
ling  chorus  and  shouts  as  before.  In  this  manner  the  song  proceed- 
led,  each  recitation  differing  from  the  former,  until  three  shouts, 
jlouder  than  the  others,  announced  the  iMialc  The  dingers  arranged 
themselves  in  a  semicircle  round  the  hatcliwav,  and  during  the  per- 
'  I.  H  ' 


r.  .* 


I  if      ■' 


VOL. 


106 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Jail 


ilf^ 


7       / 


'Xh' 


formance  pointed  to  the  different  parts  of  the  ship,  to  which  thoi;! 
song  was  undouhtedly  appHcable  ;  but  it  was  impossible  to  say  J 
what  way,  though  1  have  every  reason  to  believe  it  was  of  a  friendlv| 
nature. 

Wiiile  the  decks  were  so  crowded  with  visiters,  the  duty  of  water.j 
ing  the  ship  could  not  be  carried  on,  and  it  was  of  the  greatest  co^f 
sequence  that  it  should  be  got  through  speedily,  as  the  boats  wcrJ 
required  to  survey  the  groupe,  upon  which  I  could  not  bestow  niamf 
days.     My  hope  was,  tliat  the  natives  would  quit  us  as  their  cinioJ 
ity  became  satisfied,  especial'y  as  they  had  nothing  to  barter,  exceri 
some  sour  paste,  which,  being  extremely  unpalatable  to  every  obJ 
on  board,  was  not  marketable.      After  breakfast,  two  small  ])oatJ 
the  only  ones  we  had  in  repair,  were  equipped  for  landing,  and  M 
barge  was  ordered  to  be  in  attendance ;  for  though  there  was  event 
reason  to  expect  a  friendly  reception,  yet  in  a  country  where  li 
language  is  not  understood,  and  among  a  barbarous  people,  wlioc;; 
principal  aim  is  plunder,  it  is  extremely  difficult  to  avoid  dispuit. 
especially  when  the  force  to  which  they  are  opposed  is  greatly  j  .f 
ferior  to  their  own.     We  felt  the  loss  of  the  cutter  at  this  monic!!|^*| 
as  she  was  a  boat  so  much  better  calculated  for  the  service  we  lu 
to  perform  than  the  gig  or  whale-boat. 

As  we  had  anticipated,  the  boats  had  no  sooner  put  off  from  li-^. 
ship,  than  all  the  natives  quitted  her  as  before,  and  joined  their  con. 
panions  on  shore,  who  were  assembled  in  a  wood  skirting  the  bead}'  ^ 
At  the  approach  of  th  j   boats,  there  was  much  bustle  among  t:  I   '. 
trees ;  every  one  appeared  to  be  arming  himself,  and  many  wlio  kj 
long  poles  broke  them  in  halves  to  supply  those  who  had  non  i 
These  preparations  made  it  necessary  to  be  cautious  how  the  boa; 
were  placed  in  their  power,  as  they  were  small,  and  easily  upsi 
and  the  natives  very  numerous.      We  found  the  shore,  as  at  U;! 
other  island,  surrounded  by  coral  rocks,  upon  which  the  boats  sroiffil 
ded  about  two  hundred  yards  from  the  beach,   and  they  could 
advance  without  imminent  danger  of  being  stove.      The  nativij 
whose  rafts  drew  so  little  water  that  they  could  be  floated  over  tliesi 
impediments,  could  not  understand  our  motives  in  delaying,  or  scare;' 
ing  for  any  other  place  than  that  to  which  they  had  been  acciistoil 
ed,  and  kept  continually  vociferating  "Ho-my  !   Ho-my  !"      It  «; 
natural  that  they,  ignorant  of  the  cause,  should  suppose  mo  liai 
other  things  in  view  than  that  of  landing;  and  one  ofthem  wholiaJ 
received  a  bottle  as  a  present  from  some  of  our  people,  iniaginic;! 
we  were  come  in  search  of  it,  ran  into  the  water  as  far  as  he  coiiliij 
holding  it  up  at  arm's  length,  and  when  he  could  advance  no  raitlicl 
threw  it  towards  the  boat,  and,  in  spite  of  our  signs  for  him  tokce;| 
it,  he  followed  the  boats,  and  kept  throwing  the  bottle   towards 
until  he  found  it  was  of  no  use. 


0  which  the!  : 
ble  to  say  i  f' 
asofafriemlll 

duty  of  water.  ^ 
!  greatest  cos. 
le  boats  uct; 
t  bestow  man 
as  their  curio.. pis 
barter,  exce^.l 
to  every  oj: 
>  small  boat^ 
iding,  and  i': 
ere  was  e\er, 
ry  where  li 
teople,  wlif.. 
void  dispiik. 
is  greatly  >.:■ 
this  monieii: 
Tvice  we  ha; 

t  off  from  M 
led  their  coifrl 
ing  the  bead' 
e  among  i 
nany  wboli;; 
lo  had  no:.:' 
low  the  Im' 

easily  up^H 
re,  as  at  i- 
e  boats  ,2;roi:.-;l;i^ 
ey  could  rj 

The  natii 
ted  over  tii.  s 
ng,  or  seaix;' 
icn  accnstni... 
y !"     It  v.- 
pose  we  L: 
;hem  wlioii-. 
Ic,   iiiiaiiin::: 

as  ho  colli: 

ice  no  rai'llii:. 

r  him  to  ku 

toward'^  !:• 


1826.  J 


AND  BUEBlIfU  S  STRAIT. 


107 


A  short  distance  below  the  place  where  the  multitude  were  as- 
sembled, the  rocks  admitted  a  freer  access  to  the  shore  than  above, 
and  we  effected  a  landing. 
'^k^      Directly  the  boats  touched  the  beach,  one  of  the  natives  who  was 
near  them  took  off  his  turban  and  waved  it  to  his  countrymen,  who 
L instantly  answered  the  signal  with  a  shout,  and  rushed  towards  the 
spot.     The  foremost  of  their  party  stopped  within  a  short  distance 
of  us  until  the  crowd  came  up  to  him,  and  then  advanced  and  sa- 
(luied  Mr.  Belcher,  who  was  unarmed,  by  rubbing  noses.     Observ- 
iing  there  was  some  distrust  of  a  fowling-piece  which  I  held  in  my 
[hand,  1  placed  it  against  a  rock  for  an  instant  among  our  own  party 
{while  I  advanced  a  step  to  salute  a  person  who  appeared  to  be  the 
leading  man  of  the  islanders.   The  opportunity  thisaffjrded  the  na- 
tives of  indulging  their  lavourite  propensity  was  not  overlooked  ; 
land  one  of  them,  regardless  of  all  risk,  thrust  himself  between  our 
[people,  snatched  up  the  gun,  and,  mingling  with  the  mob  with  the 
[greatest  adroitness,  succeeded  in  making  his   escape.     The  crowd 
{instantly  fled  into  the  wood,  and  along  the  beach,  but  shortly  rallied, 
land  with  loud  shouts  ad\anced  upon  us,  until  the  discharge  of  a 
Icarronade  from  the  barge,  which  was  fortunately  near,  put  them  to 
might.     The  man  who  had  sealed  the  compact  of  friendship,   if  sp 
lindeed  it  be,  by  rubbing  noses,  sat  quietly  upon  a  large  stone  close 
Ito  us  during  this  affair,  as  if  he  relied  upon  the  pledge   that  had 
[been  given  for  his  security.     It  would  have  been  treacherous,  and 
[perhaps  pregnant  u  ith  serious  evils  to  them  and  to  ourselves,  had  any 
[violence  been  offered,  or  any  thing  done  that  might  appear  like  an 
'infringement  of  this  understanding,  or  I  should  certainly   have   de- 
:tained  his  person,  in   the   hope  of  the  gun  being  returned.     As  it 
iwas,  I  allowed  him  to  go  rjv.ietly  away. 

The  boats  were  at  this  time  unavoidably  very  awkwardly  sit- 
[uated,  by  being  aground  upon  the  rocks,  and  in  a  situation  from 
[which  it  would  have  been  extremely  difficult  to  '^xtricate  them,  had 
'a  determined  attack  been  made  by  the  natives.  The  consecjuences 
[in  that  case  would  have  been  very  serious  ;  though  their  weapons 
[consisted  only  of  long  poles  and  bone-headed  spears,  yet  they  were 
'sufficiently  powerful,  fiom  their  numbers  alone,  to  have  rendered 
[the  most  determined  defence  on  our  part  doubtful. 

As  soon  a';  we  were  free,  we  followed  the  natives  along  the  beach, 
[approaching  them,  whenever  the  rocks  would  allow,  to  offer  terms 
of  reconciliation  :  but  our  overtures  were  answered  only  by  showers 
of  stones.  This  conduct,  which  we  now  began  to  think  was  only  a. 
])art  of  their  general  character,  rendered  it  extremely  difficult,  nay 
almost  impossible,  to  have  any  dealings  with  them  without  getting 
into  disputes.  No  time,  place,  or  example,  made  any  difference  in 
the  indulgence  of  their  insatiable  propensity  to  theft.     Explanations 


\ 


It 


108 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Jan. 


1 


7: 


I  ■■    I 


I;'    .ili'i 


(•1 


,.-  ,;(. 


s  1 '/ 


and   tlircats,  which  in  some  instances  will  prevent  the  necessity  of  j 
acting,  were  unfortunati.-ly  not  at  our  command,  in  consequence  of 
our  ignorance  of  their  language,  and  the  only  option  left  us  was  tcl 
yield  up  our  goods  unresistingly,  or  inflict  a  more  severe  chastise. 
ment  than  the  case  might  deserve.     Captain  Cook,  who  mana;ie(| 
the  natives  of  these  seas  better  than  any  other  navigator,  pursuedal 
system  which  generally  succeeded,  tliough  in  the  end  it  cost  him 
his  life.     It  was  rigid,  but  I  am  certain  it  was  better  adapted  to  pre- 
serve peace  than  the  opposite  plan  adopted  by  Perouse,  at  Eusuil 
Isla.nd,  who,  though  one  of  the  most  enlightened  navigators,  was,oij 
all,  the  most  unfortunate. 

To  seize  one  of  the  natives,  or  upon  something  that  wasof  mor?j 
value  to  them  than  the  goods  they  had  stolen,  was  the  most  ellk;. 
ual  way  of  recovering  what  was  lost,  and  by  adopting  this  mmle  t;,|| 
proceeding  might  prevent  a  recurrence  of  such  a  circumstance; 
consequently  took  away  a  net  and  some  rafts  that  were  lying  upotj 
the  shore.  The  net  was  about  forty  feet  in  length,  made  with  tliej 
bark  of  the  porou  tree  (Jiibiscus  ?i//rtcci/s),  precisely  in  the  san.. 
manner  as  our  seins  are,  but  weighed  with  stones  and  rounded  piert  I 
of  coral  instead  of  lead.  To  obtain  possession  of  these  articlt  I 
without  strife,  it  was  necessary  to  drive  away  a  party  that  was  seat- 
ed upon  a  large  tree  near  them,  and  a  carronade  was  fired  ovei 
their  heads :  but  of  this  they  took  no  notice,  probably  consideiic: 
themselves  safe  at  so  great  a  distance,  and  having  had  no  experiencil 
to  the  contrary^,  supposed  that  such  weapons  were  caculated  on!yt(| 
intimidate  by  noise.  Tha  next  gun  dispersing  the  sand  ainoiuj 
them,  they  speedily^  resigned  their  seats,  and  with  all  the  inhabitiiiii  I 
went  to  the  upper  village.  Afier  this  our  comnumicaton  was  for; 
time  suspended,  as  the  natives  kept  aloof,  and  the  boats  were  rcl 
quired  to  proceed  with  the  watering. 

At  daylight  on  the  2d  of  Januarys  we  connnenced  filling  ourcaij 
from  two  good  streams,  which  supplied  water  much  faster  than  i;l 
could  be  got  off. 

We  perceived  the  natives  collected  in  a  large  body  at  the  village  I 
and  soon  afterwards  some  v^en  stole  along  the  beach  to  reconnoiutl 
the  watering  party  ;  but  they  were  prevented  offering  any  moliM;' 
tion  by   a  gun  being  fired  from  the  ship.     On  tliis  day  I  observe; l 
the  old  custom  of  taking  possession  of  the  groupe,  and  hoisted  tliel 
English  ensign  upon  the  shore,  turned  a  turf,  and  sowed  seveni!ii>e-| 
ful  seeds,  which  it  is  to  be  hoped  will  spring  up  to  the  benefit  oflht 
natives.     I  named  the  island  on  which  Mount  Duff  stood,  after  iiiyi 
first  Lieutenant,  ]\Ir.  Peard,  and  the  others  in  succession,  IJelclicr, 
Wainwright,  Elson,  Collie,  and  Marsli,  after  the  other  officers,  ar/ 
the  lagoon  in  which  fhe  ship  was  anchored  after  herself. 

Before  our  party  reached  the  shore  the  next  morning,  one  of  tin 


.# 


[Jen-  Im  1896.] 


AND  DhjERINC  9  STRAIT. 


109 


necessity  of 
sequence  of 
t  us  was  to  I 
ire  chastise- 1 
lo  managed 
•r,  pursuedal 
it  cost  liinil 
iipted  to  pre. 
e,  at  Eastcf 
itors,  was.f:' 

was  of  nior^  i-: 
most  clU'r; 
lis  mo<l(.'  I 
amstance :  i  % 
!  lying;  upur, 
ide  witli  il:' 
n  the  sai; 
LUided  jiii  i   , 
hese  artiil:. 
hat  was  st;;;. 
as  fired  ov : 
considci ;. 
0  experii  r 
lated  onl} 
and  anioi,: 
e  inhabita:  t 
on  was  liji  I 
.ts  were  : 


ig  ourca- 
.stcr  than 


I 


the  \ill:i 
rcconnoittt  | 
ny  niole^li' 
I  observi. 
hoisted  i:;  | 
several  li-e- 1 . 
)cnelit  olYi; ' 
)(1,  after  iiiij 
n,  UvHa. 
)(iicers,  aw. 

:,  one  of  tin 


natives  was  perceived  carrying  off  a  small  cask  that  had  been  left 
'  there  the  preceding  night.     We  watched  him  through  our  teliscopes 
land  observed  him  conceal  it  with  a  large  mat  which  he  carried  with 
{him.     He  had  doubtless  no  suspicion  that  his  actions  could  be  ob- 
Iserved  at  so  great  a  distance,  as  he  began  to  retrace  his  steps  along 
[the  open  beach  ;  but  seeing  he  was  not  sufficiently  quick  to  escape 
Ithe  boats  that  were  going  on  the  shore,  he  quitted  his  prize,  and  hid 
Ihiniself  in  the  wood.     The  watering  had  not  long  been  renewed  be- 
[fore  a  large  party  collected  upon  the  height  above,  headed  by  two 
fmen,  who  appeared  to  be  chiefs,  clad  in  loose   white   turbans  and 
[cloaks  :  the  eldest  led  the  party  cautiously  down  the  hill,  and  made 
|a  stand  at  a  large  stone,  which  one  of  his  party  ascended,  and  there 
(waved  a  banana  leaf.     We   answered  this  friendly  signal  by  wav- 
[ing  in  return  a  white  flag  from  the  ship  :  but  here  our  amity  ended  ; 
[for  while  this  was  going  forward  the  other  chief  stood  upon  the  ridge, 
[and  beckoned  to  the  natives  on  the  other  side  of  the  hill  to  join  him, 
[which  greatly  augmented  his  numbers ;  and  some  of  them  loosened 
[large  stones,  apparently  with  a  view  of  annoying  our  watering  party, 
[who  were  so  situated  under  the  hill  that  a  few  such  fragments  pre- 
icipitated  upon  them  would  cause  very  serious   mischief.     As  there 
[was  every  appearance  of  treachery,  the  boats  were  put  upon  their 
guard  by  signal ;  but  the  barge  mistaking  its  purport,  fired  two  shot 
to  dislodge  the  islanders,  both  of  which,  to  their  great  astonishment, 
fell  very  close  to  them,  and  induced  them  to  retire  to  the  other  side 
of  the  ridge.     Some,  however,  had  the  curiosity  to  return  and  ex- 
amine the  place,  and,  after  a  little  digging,  found  one  of  the  shot, 
which  they  carried  to  their  conu'ades,  many  of  whom  assembled 
round  the  prize,  never  probably  having  so  large  a  piece  of  iron  in 
their  possession  before. 

At  noon  on  the  5th  the  watering  was  completed,  and  without  any 
^  accident  or  sickness,  which,  considering  the  difficulty  of  getting  the 
casks  off,  and  the  constant  exposure  of  the  seamen  to  a  vertical  sun 
while  in  the  water,  there  was  every  reason  to  apprehend.  It  was 
further  Sitisfactory  to  find  that  this  service  had  been  effected  with- 
out any^  liarm  to  the  natives,  except  in  one  instance,  when  a  marine 
inconsiderately  fired  at  a  party  who  were  lurking  in  the  wood,  and 
wounded  one  of  them  in  tlie  foot.  From  the  disposition  of  the  in- 
habitants, and  the  superiority  of  their  numbers,  there  was  reason  to 
apprehend  a  different  result ;  and  the  quietness  with  which  it  was 
conducted  must  be  attributed  to  their  being  kept  at  a  distance  du- 
ring its  performance. 

The  boats  were  now  sent  to  survey  the  groupe,  and  were  kept 
constantly  employed  upon  it  from  daylight  to  dusk.  In  the  course 
of  this  examination  every  part  was, visited,  and  we  had  frequent 
communication  with  tlie  natives,  who  on  such  occasions  were  al- 


mn. 


\^ 


.,^1 1 


S;  :  'I 


l»»''l|     •.!.: 


,'  rl 


$  1: 


I' 


k 


110 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Jan 


ways  civil,  and  brouglit  such  supplies  of  fruit  and  food  as  their  scani, 
means  afforded,  and  generally  abstained  from  the  indulgence  ofthi  ,: 
propensity  for  thieving,  which  when  numerous  they  so  fully  indnl;.  ^ 
ed.     Their  behaviour  was  indeed  so  different  from  w hat  it  had  Ijof,, ; 
that  we  must  attribute  it  to  the  operation  of  fear,  as  their  numhf  r, ' 
were  then  very  small,  inconsequence  of  our  visits  being  unexpn;. 
ed  and  the  population  of  each  village  very  limited.     The  net  wxlia 
taken  off  the  shore  was  carried  round  to  the  principal  village  ando;.  ■* 
fered  in  return  for  the  articles  that  had  been  stolen,  but  whetliei  ol 
meaning  was  understood  or  not,  they  were  not  produced. 

This   village  is  situated  in  a  bay,  at  the  eastern  foot  of  Moiir. 
Duff,  and  is  rendered  conspicuous  by  a  hut  ofvery  large  dimeiisio],- 
which  we  shall  describe  hereafter,  and  by  a  quadrangular  buiidin!! 
of  large  blocks  of  coral  erected  in  the  water,  at  a  few  yards'  distaiif!"' 
from  thd  shore,  which  appeared  to  us  to  be  a  morai.     Ui)oii  i'  ■ 
northern  extreme  stood  a  small  hut,  planted  round  with  trees,  wliir 
it  was  conjectured  contained  images  and  offerings  ;  but,  as  the  (|f>: 
was  closed,  and  the  natives  were  watching  us,  we  would  not  oxan 
ine  it.     Contiguous  to  it  there  was   a  body  placed  upon  boan;. 
wrapped  in  thick  folds  of  paper  cloth  :  and,  not  far  from  it,  aiiotii 
enveloped  in  a  smaller  quantity  of  the  same  material.     There  wii 
no  offensive  smell  whatever  from  either  of  these  corpses,  tlionji" 
the  one  last  mentioned  did  not  appear  to  have  been  long  expo^( 
The  heads  of  both  were  lying  to  the  N.  E.  ;  both  bodies  were  mw; 
abundantly  surrounded  by  cloth  than  any  we  had  seen  here ;  ai  ( 
from  the  nature  of  the  platform  on  which  they  were  placed,  wliii  ! 
must  have  required  considerable  labour  to  construct,  we  con(lii(!,i» 
they  were  the  bodies  of  chiefs  ;  and  we  were,  on  that  account,  mr 
tenacious  of  subjecting  them  to  the  scrutiny  our  curiosity  proni|i!i 
lest  the  natives  should  suppose  we  were  offering  them  some  indij;iiii 
An  old  man  whom  we  interrogated  as  to  the  nature  of  the  biiilili;. 
gave  us  no  information  :  but  looked  very  serious  whenever  he  v; 
referred  to  the  place,  and  seemed  disposed  to  believe  we   wereiuL. ' 
clined  to  place  his  body  there  to  keep  the  others  company. 

Though  we  were  prevented  from  examining  these  mummies  Iv 
the  watchfulness  of  the  natives,  w^e  were  more  successful  at  tiie  iv 
and  to  the  eastward,  off  which  we  first  anchored.     We  there  luiiiicl 
six  bodies  under  a  projecting  part  of  a  cliff,  which  overhung  tlienj 
sufficiently  to  protect  them  from  the  inclemency  of  the  weatlierj 
Above  them  we  noticed  a  child  suspended  by  a  string  round  its  wak, 
tied   to  a  projecting  crag.     The  bodies  of  the  adults  were  placec  I 
])arallel,  with  their  heads  to  the  N.  E.,  as  in  the  other  instance ' 
They  were  wrapped  fust  in  cloth,  then  in  matting,  and   again  cov- 
ered over  with  thick  folds  of  cloth  secured  by  a  small  cord  lasliiii: 
Mr.  Collie,  the  surgeon,  made  an  incision  into  the  stomach  of  oiic 


1826.] 


AND  BEEniNG  S  STRAIT. 


Ill 


fof  the  newest  mummies,  which  appeared  the  most  Iiardcned,  and 
{found  the  membraneous  part  of  tlie  abdomen,  dried  and  shrivelled 
up,  enclosing  an  indurated  earthy  substance,  which  at  first  induced 
jhim  to  believe  it  had  underjioiie  the  process  of  enbalming  ;  but  find- 
ling  afterwards  membranes  and  earthy  matter  within  a  cranium  sim- 
[ilarly  dried,  and  knowing  that  there  was  no  way  in  which  any  ex- 
Itraneous  substance  could  have  been  introduced  there,  except  by  the 
[vertebral  canal,  he  was  induced  to  alter  his  opinion,  which,  he  says, 
Ihad  nothing  to  support  it,  but  the  idea  that  putrefaction  must  have 
Itaken  place  without  some  counteracting  agent.     This  complete  de- 
siccation of  the  human  frame  is  not  unfrequent  in  these  seas,  nor 
lindeed  in  other  places ;  but  requires  considerable  care  and  atten- 
Ition  to  do  it  effectually.     The  method  formerly   pursued  at  Ota- 
leite,  was  to  keep  the  corpse  constantly  wiped  dry,  and  well  lubri- 
cated with  cocoa-nut  oil.     Our  intercourse  with  the  Gambier  Isl- 
anders did  not  afford  us  the  opportunity  of  ascertaining  if  this  were 
their  practice  also,  but  we  noticed  the   precaution  of  exposing  the 
Ijodies  upon  frames  three  or  four  feet  above  the  ground,  that  the 
lir  might  freely  circulate  about  them,  and  of  keeping  them  well  cov- 
sred  with  folds  of  cloth.     It  is  remarkable  that  none  of  these  had 
ly  offensive  smell,  not  even  those  that  had  been  recently  exposed 
ipon  the  drying-board.     Lieutenant  Belcher,   whose  duty  carried 
lim  a  great  deal  about  the  islands,  saw  some  bodies  that  were  ex- 
posed to  dry,  covered  with  a  matted  shed  to  protect  them  from  the 
lin ;  and  in  one  he  found  the  head  and  right  arm  separated  from 
khe  tnmk,  wrapped  in  separate  pieces  of  cloth,  and  secured  by  a 
^lashing  to  the  body.     On  no  part  of  the  shore  did  we  see  skulls  or 
ibones  exposed  and  heaped  together,  as  about  the  morals  common  to 
Polynesia ;  and  although  Mr.   Belcher  found  some  human  bones 
jartly  burned  lying  loose  upon  a  rock,  together  with  a  body  depos- 
ited in  the  grave  with  a  wicker-work  frame  over  it,  there  is   every 
reason  to  believe  that  these  exposures  are  very  rare  indeed,  and 
that   almost   all    the   bodies    are    wapped    in  cloth,   and   deposit- 
fed  as  first  described.     This  custom  furnishes  a  satisfactory  reason 
[for  the  cloth  being  so  scarce  ;  and  though  we  cannot  commend  their 
[policy  in  clothing  the  dead  at  the  expence  of  the  living,  yet  they 
Imust  be  allowed  the  merit  due  to  their  generosity  and  respect  for 
[their  departed  friends. 

On  the  7th  I  visited  a  village  at  the  south  extremity  of  Belcher 
[Island.  It  was  situated  in  a  little  bay,  at  the  foot  of  a  ridge  of  hills 
which  intersected  the  island.  We  were  received  by  about  a  dozen 
men  and  women,  who  behaved  in  a  very  friendly  manner,  and 
brought  down  cocoa-nuts  (some  of  which,  by  the  by,  had  been  pre- 
viously emptied  of  their  contents),  sugar-cane,  tee-roots,  one  bunch 
I  of  bananas,  and  several  clusters  of  pandanus  nuts ;  these  they  threw 


/ 


.' « 


ft  ■■  •  1  /   'l 


'     I 


y    i 


112 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Jo, 


into  the  boat  without  soliciting;  nny  return;  and,  what  is  nioio  .^ 
tnionlinary,  witliout  evincini;  any  desire  to  steal.     All  the  nitn  |i 
quitted  us,  execptinj;;  one,  who  was  anxious   that  we  should  hmj 
Two  of  these  females  behaved  in  a   nuunier  which  attracted  iuii.^ 
tion,  altlioui!;h  we  could  not  account  for  their  conduct  ;  they  wiul,  ; 
out  to  the  boats,  cryins^  most  piteously,  strikin}^  their  breasts,  n-  ; 
j)ulling  their  hair,  which  hung  loose  over  their  shoulders,  with  n 
ry  demonstration  of  the  deepest  distress;  and,  toour  surpsisi',tliii 
their  arms  round  our  necks,  and  hugged  us  so  close  that   we  co,; 
not  disengage  ourselves  form  their  endnace  without  violenc(>.    \ 
we  were  quite  unconscious  of  the  nature  of  their  grief,  we  could  .j 
fer  them  no  consolation  beyond  that  of  kindness,  and   giving  tl,, 
some  beads  and  trinkets.     After  a  few  minutes  they  discn:;., 
their  arms,  began   dancing,   laughing,  and  saluting  us  occasioini; 
with  a  rub  of  the  nose:  in  the  midst  of  this  mirth  they  would  >,■. 
denly  relapse  into  grief,  and  throw  their  arms  about  in  a  frantic  w^ 
until  I  began  to  fear  they  might  injure  themselves;  but  this  paiov 
ysm  was  as  short  as  that  of  the  mirth  by  which  it   was  succooiku 
they   again  began  to  dance,  and  were  afterwards  quite  cliecii; 
The  only  cause  to  which  we  could  attribute  this  extraordinary  c% 
duct,  or  at  least  for  the  melancholy  jjart  of  it,  was  that  they  mi; 
in  some  way  be  connected  with  the  man   who  had  been   wouiKk 
upon  the  raft.     And  if  this  were  the  case,  it  affords  a  presuiii|iti,, 
that  the  custom  of  self-mutilation  on  such  occasions,  so  commc 
to  many  of  the  islands  in  the  Pacific,  does  not  exist  here. 

As  tlie  sun  went  down  the  natives  pointed  to  it,  and  signifiei 
us  to  be  gone,  exclaiming  "  Bobo  mai."     Wc  got  from  them  a  fa  ' 
articles  of  manufacture,  very  similar  to  those  of  Pitcairn  Isla 
In  return   for  these  we  made  them  useful   presents,  and  took  ( I 
leave  with  the  promise  of  "Bobo  mai,"  which  we  understood 
mean  "come  to-morrow."     We  rowed  round  the  rest  of  the  isla,, 
and  soon  satisfied  ourselves  of  its  extreme  poverty.     There  w: 
two  villages  upon  its    western  side,  situated  in    deep   sandy  bu 
which  would  form    excellent  harbours  for  shipping,  if  they  could  i; 
entered  ;  but  this  is  impracticable   from  the  many  corol   knolls  ol 
the  outside.  [ 

Lieutentant  Belcher  describes  a  moral,  which  he  visited,  in  il; 
following  manner.     A  hut,  about  twenty  feet  in  length  by  ten  wiili 
and  seven  high,  with  a  thatched  roof,  of  which  the  eaves  were  tliiel 
feet  from  the  ground,  contained  the  deity.     There  were  only  w\ 
apertures,  about  two  feet  six  inches  square,  furnished  with  tJiatclvl 
ed  shutters.     In  froi  t   of  the  building,  a   space  about  twciit .  ft  » 
square  was  paved  with  hewn  coral  slabs,  with  curbstones  at  the  i"':t 
as  neatly  fitted  as  the  pavements  in  England.      Along  the  wlio! 
length  of  the  interior  of  the  hut  was  a  trough  elevated  about  three  Ik; 


k..-^ 


It  is  more  ei| 

1  tllO  lIU'll 

Itnicted  iiti(„,hl 
:;  they  wiulj  '« 
r  breasts,  i,.  J 
Icrs,  with  ovkI 
suq)sise,tlirt,;. 
lull    wo  coi::  ' 
violeiiO(>.    \; 
f,  we  could  (,;| 

1   giviiiir  tlK,: 
loy  disciiM:( 
.IS  occasional;' 
)y  would  s'l:. 
1  a  IVanlicu, 
Hit  this  pani 
as  succofiii: 
luite  clicciil 
aordinary  cotl 
at  they  niijtj 
)een   woiin(it: 
1  presuinpiiol 
5,  so  comnicl 
lere. 

id  signified;! 

m  them  a  tltP 

itcairn  Islar , 

and  tooko; 

inderstooil : 
of  the  isla;,: 
There  w.; 
sandy  Im 

tliey  cniilil- 
rol   knoll^  . 


isited,  in  t!; 
1  by  ten  uiilt 
es  were  tlirej 
ere  only  tw; 

with  tliatd' 
It  twenty  ll't 

at  the  I'diief. 
ma;  the  who!;'' 
»out  three  let 


182G.] 


AND    BEERINq's    STHATT. 


113 


'from  the  ground  ;  in  tlie  renter  of  wliich  was  an  idol  three  feet  high 
neatly  carved  and  pohshed  ;  the  eyebrows  were  sculptured,  but  not 


the  ey 


es 


and  from  the  manner  in  which  t 


iV    IIMHCleS 


were  defined 


it  was  evident  that  these  people  were   not  rr::;ir(lk'ss  of  the  anato- 
my of  the  figure.   It  was  placed  in  an  u|)riglit  position  on  the  trougli  or 
lor  manger, and  fastened  by  the  extremities  totlie  sideoftheiuit :  the 
I  head  was  bound  witli  a  piece  of  white  cloth,  as  were  also  the  loins,  and 

d,  tlie  aged 


those 


rts  which   the  natives  themselves  ne) 


conceal 
{excepted.     In  the  trough  beneath  the  image  were  several   paddles, 
[mats,  coils  of  line,  and  cloth,  offerings  which  had  been  made  to  the 
(deity  ;  and  at  his  feet  was  placed  a  calabash,  which  the  natives  said 
[contained  water,  "  avy."     On  each  side  of  the  nnage  was  a  stand, 
[having  three  carved  arms,  to  the  hands  of  whirdi  several  articles 
[were  suspended,   such  as  carved  cocoa-nut  she.ls,  and   pieces  of 
Ibaniboo,  perhaps  musical  instruments ;  but  INIr.  Belcher  abstained 
[from  trespassing  on  this  sacred  ground,  for  fear  of  giving  offence  to 
[the  natives,  who  did  not  nuich  like  this  exercise  of  curiosity.     In- 
jdeed,  the  whole  time  he  was  there,  the  women  were  anxious  to  get 
Ihirn  away,  and  the  men  looked  serious,  and  were  very  glad   when 
!he  left  the  place.     The  females  accompanied  him  to  the  threshold 
'  the  moral ;  but  the  men  studiously  avoided  treading  upon  the  sa- 
cred pavement,  and  knelt  down  the  whole  time  he  was  there,  with- 
But  however,  any  apparent  devotion.     Mr.  Belcher  endeavoured  to 
irchase  this  idol ;   but  valuable  as  his  offers  must  have  been  to 
these  poor  people,  the   temptation  did    not  prove  sufficient.     An- 
Jther  image  about  the  same  size  was  found  upon  one   of  the  coral 
islands  of  the   groupe,  clothed  in  the  same  way,  but  more  rudely 
^carved,  and  deficient  in  the  offerings  above-mentioned. 


VOL.  1. 


15 


£■'  »• 


d 


» 


Ill 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Jnn, 


-r?ff 


CHAPTER  VI. 


L>'> 


Scronil  interview  with  the  Natives — Visit  io  the  principal  Villag'c — Bodies  cxp.i;, 
to  dry — Arrphc  or  Chief— Lieutenant  Wuinwriffht  attacked  by  Nativen — Advai., 
age  of  the  Port— Furtlier  Description  of  the  Island,  ita  Soil  and  Prodnctiuuij. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  8th,  we  again  landed  under  Mouiit  Diii> 
to  try  tlie  feeling  of  the  natives.     Our  party  was  not  large,  and  v 
carefully  avoided  every  thing  that  might  appear  offensive,  caii \ in; , 
with  us  a  white  flag  upon  a  staff.     One  man  only,  at  first,  venti,ii 
near  us,  ruhbed  noses,  and  received  several  presents,  with  wliicli: 
was  highly  delighted.     His  companions,  who,  during  the  interview : 
had  been  peeping  from  behind  the  trees,  noticing  his  friendly  re- 
ception, laid  aside  their  weapons,  came  out  of  the  wood,  and  salut- 
ed us  in  their  usual  manner  singing,  as  they  approached,  the  cliore 
we  had  heard  on  board,  which  strengthened  our  opinion  of  its  bein. 
a  song  of  welcome. 

The  next  day  I  landed  with  a  party  in  the  bay  where  the  piiin- 
pal  village  is  situated,  and  was  met  at  the  landing-place,  which  \\i 
about  half  a  mile  from  the  village,  by  two  or  three  men  who  rubl* 
noses,  and  seemed  glad  to  see  us.     They  took  us  by  the  arm  anil 
conducted  us  to  the  village  along  a  narrow  pathway,   through  Ion; 
grass  and  loose  stones,  overshadowed  by  a  wood  of  bread-fruit  aiii    J 
cocoa-nut  trees.     In  this  distance  we  passed  a  few  patches  of  culti- 
vation, but  they  were  rare,  and  indicated  very  little  attention  to  ag- 
riculture.    The  natives  increased  greatly  in  numbers  as  we  advanc- 
ed, and  all  were  officious  to  pay  us  attention,  and  assist  us  to  tlit 
village  :   Uiey  were  armed,  yet  their  manner  showed  it  was,  as  willi 
us,  only  .1  jjrecautionary  measure  :  nothing  in  appearance  could  ex- 
ceed their  amicable  behavior.     We  had  each  two  or  more  fiicndO 
who  officially  passed  their  arms  under  ours,  helped  us  over  the  I 
stones,  and  conducted  us  along  the  right  pathway  to  the  village;  a 
species  of  escort,  however,  which,  by  depriving  us  of  the  use  ol'ourl 
limbs,  placed  us  entirely  in  their  power.     We  passed  several  hut; 
open  on  the  south  side,  and  one,  which  was  full  of  fishing-nets,  clos- 
ed up  ;  near  these  there  were  two  bodies  wrapped  in  a  great  many 


\i'U 


I92fi.] 


AND  BEGRINo'ii  STRAIT. 


115 


cloths,  exposed  upon  stalls  raised  about  a  yard  from  the  ground, 
anil  siip|)ortcd  upon  forked  props. 

Tlie  imlives  were  unwilliuf;  that  wo  should  touch  any  of  these, 
ni'.d  wc  did  not  olicnd  them  by  so  doinj;;,  but  approached  within  a 
few  feet  to  ascertain  whether  there  were  any  ollensive  smell  from 
tlic  corpse,  hut  none  could  be  discerned. 

Fi  vther  on  wc  came  to  an  open  area,  partly  ])avcd  with  blocks 
of  coral,  and  divided  ofl'from  tlie  cultivated  land  by  large  slabs  of 
the  same  material  very  evenly  cut,  and  rcsendjliug  those  at  the 
Friendly  Islands.  At  one  end  of  this  area  stood  the  large  hut  which 
had  before  excited  our  curiosity :  it  was  about  thirteen  yards  in 
length  by  six  or  seven  in  width,  and  proportionably  high,  with  a 
thatched  roof  On  the  south  side  it  wjis  entirely  open,  and  the 
gables  nearly  so,  being  constructed  with  upright  poles,  crossed  by 
.smaller  ones,  forming  an  open  frame-work,  through  which  the  sea 
breeze  circulated,  and  refreshed  the  area  within.  Beneath  the  roof 
on  tlie  o])en  side,  about  foiw  feet  within  the  eaves,  there  was  a  low 
broad  wall  well  constructed  with  blocks  of  coral,  hewn  out  and  put 
together  in  so  workmanlike  a  style,  and  of  such  dimensions,  as  to 
excite  oiv,  surprise,  how,  with  their  rude  instruments,  it  could  have 
been  accomplished.  The  blocks  were  five  feet  long  by  three  wide, 
and  one  foot  thick ;  a:ul  were  placed  upon  the  narrow  edge  in  a 
manner  in  which  we  traced  a  resemblance  to  the  walls  in  Hapae, 
as  described  by  Captain  Cook.  Upon  this  eminence  was  seated  a 
venerable  looking  person  about  sixty  years  of  age,  with  a  long  beard 
entirely  grey  ;  be  bad  well-proportioned  features,  and  a  command- 
ing aspect ;  his  figure  was  rather  tall,  but  lassitude  and  corpulency 
greatly  diminished  his  natural  stature ;  he  was  entirely  naked  ex- 
cept a  maro,  and  a  crown  made  from  the  feathers  of  the  frigate-bird, 
or  black  tern  ;  his  body  was  extensively  tattooed,  and  from  the 
loins  to  the  ankles  he  was  covered  with  small  lines,  which  at  a  dis- 
tance had  the  appearance  of  pantaloons.  Long  nails,  and  rolls  of 
skin  overhanging  his  hips,  pointed  out  his  exemption  from  labour, 
and  an  indulgence  in  luxuries  which  in  all  probability  attached 
to  him  in  virtue  of  his  birthright.  He  was  introduced  to  us  as  an 
areghe  or  chief;  he  did  not  rise  from  bis  seat,  but  gave  the  nasal 
salutation  in  his  squatting  posture,  which  in  the  Friendly  Islands  is 
considered  a  mark  of  respect. 

An  exchange  of  presents  succeeded  this  meeting.  Some  scarlet 
cloth,  which  I  had  brought  on  shore  for  the  purpose,  was  placed 
over  his  shoulders,  and  closed  by  a  buckle  in  front,  which  delighted 
tlie  subjects  as  much  as  the  chief,  who,  in  return,  presented  me  with 
his  crown,  and  intimated  that  I  should  wear  it  by  placing  it  upon 
my  hat.  This  friendly  understanding  I  endeavoured  to  turn  to  our 
advantage  by  making  him  understand,  as  well  as  I  could  by  signs 


1 


^$ 


f  I 


m 


^Hfj 


t,f  /^' 

■:f 

t]h  ' 

r 

f 

'-1 

;^ 


116 


VOYAGE  TO  TUE  PACIFIC 


[J, 


rtll, 


and  Otalieitan  words,  that  we  would  barter  articles  we  had  brouglu 
with  us  for  fruit  and  vegetables ;  and  in  the  hope  of  this  being  ur. 
ceded  to,  we  waited  longer  at  the  village  than  we  should  otherwiv,. 
liave  done;  but  the  only  answer  we  got  was  "Bobo  mai,"  vvliidi 
from  the  Otalieitan  vocabulary  we  should  interpret  "  Here  to-nior- 
row ;"  but  its  application  in  the  Ganibier  groupe  was  so  various  i, 
to  leave  us  much  in  doubt  whether  they  were  not  disposed  to  turn 
our  imperfect  use  of  it  to  their  own  advantage.  Our  visit  to  the 
village  brought  a  great  accession  to  its  usual  inhabitants,  and  seveia; 
hundred  people  had  collected  about  us,  but  the  greatest  order  pre. 
vailed ;  nor  did  their  curiosity  to  scrutinize  our  persons  once  Itaii 
them  to  acts  of  rudeness,  notwithstanding  we  were  the  first  Euro- 
peans that  had  ever  landed  on  their  island.  Indeed,  throughout  tlii; 
visit,  or  at  least  until  we  were  coming  away,  there  was  a  nmrk«l 
improvement  in  their  behaviour ;  not  a  single  act  of  theft  was  at- 
tempted, while,  on  the  contrary,  one  of  honesty  occurred,  whicli 
as  it  is  the  only  instance  I  have  to  record,  must  not  be  omitttii: 
— it  consisted  in  restoring  to  one  of  our  officers  a  handkerchief  wliici 
he  left  at  a  place  where  he  had  been  sitting.  This  propriety  of  con- 
duct no  doubt  originated  in  the  strictness  of  the  discipline  whicli  we 
observed  towards  them.  It  certainly  did  not  proceed  from  the  ex- 
ample of  the  chief,  for  the  only  act  ofacquisitivenessfrom  whiolnve 
had  reason  to  apprehend  any  dispute  proceeded  from  that  persoiiaje 
himself.  To  oblige  him,  I  had  consented  to  his  looking  into  the 
bag  of  presents,  with  which  he  became  so  enamoured  that  he  re- 
tained it  in  his  grasp,  and  once  or  twice  endeavouied  to  appropriiiic 
it  to  himself  by  force. 

We  had  not  remained  many  minutes  in  the  hut  ^\•here  we  were 
first  ii^troduced,  when  the  areghe  rose,  and,  taking  me  with  him,  weii; 
to  a  large  stone,  in  the  centre  of  the  paved  area,  where  we  botlisi; 
down,  and  were  inunediately  surroimded  b}^  some  hundreds  of  lib 
subjects.  The  exchange  of  place  was  by  no  means  agreeable,  a; 
we  quitted  a  cool  and  refreshing  retreat  for  a  spot  scarcely  screened 
from  a  scorching  sun  by  a  few  scanty  leaves  of  the  bread-fruit  tree 
Alter  being  seated  here  a  few  minutes,  a  tall  good-looking  yoiiii: 
man  was  introduced,  also  as  an  areghe,  to  whom  the  old  chief  tniib- 
ferred  the  cloth  I  liad  given  him.  I  made  him  in  addition  a  siiiiilai 
present,  and  distributed  others  of  smaller  value  to  several  native> 
around  us,  in  the  hope  of  quieting  their  solicitations  ;  but  I  soon  i)Ci- 
ceived  that  this  generosity  had  the  opposite  effect. 

The  young  chief  was  handsomely  tattooed ;  he  had  a  turban  ol 
white  cloth,  and  a  girdle  of  bananaleaf  as  his  only  covering.  He 
was  more  anxious  to  communicate  wit'i  us  than  the  old  man  ;  i)oint- 
ed  to  the  road  leading  over  the  hill  to  a  village  on  the  opposite  ?iele, 
and  made  many  signs,  which  we  interpreted  as  promising  us  tLe 


Irestora 

•S  plies 
tr- 
inity re; 

'^distanci 


AND  BEERINO  S   STRAIT. 


117 


sstoration  of  tlie  articles  that  had  been  stolen,  and  al.<o  some  sup- 
plies ;  at  the  same  time  he  intimated  that  a  j)erson  of  superior  dig- 
aity  resided  on  the  other  side  of  the  hill.  But  if  this  were  true,  the 
listance  was  only  half  a  mile,  and  we  remained  long  enough  in  the 
idllage  for  a  person  to  have  traversed  it  five  or  six  tiwies.  We  were 
lext  introduced,  by  the  chief,  to  several  women,  who  saluted  us  in 
jthe  usual  manner,  and  thankfully  accepted  our  presents.     The  chief 

irished  me  particularly  to  notice  one  of  them,  a  fine  tall  woman  about 
khirtv-five  years  of  age,  with  sharp  black  eyes,  long  black  hair,  rather 
Bunhurnt,  white  and  even  teeth,  a  complexion  lighter  than  the  gene- 

ality  of  her  countrywomen,  and  with  a  good-natured  countenance 

ifliich  the  coarseness  of  feature  only  prevented  being  pretty.  She 
bad  an  annlet  tattooed  on  each  arm,  and  was  without  any  other  or- 
jiainent  whatever ;  her  ears  even  were  not  pierced  for  the  reception 
bf  rings.     Her  dress  consisted  of  a  piece  of  white  cloth  wra})ped 

3und  the  hips,  and  another  round  the  waist  below  the  breast,  which 

vas  exposed.  There  v,  as  something  commanding  in  her  manner, 
knd  lioin  her  intimacy  with  the  chief  she  was  evidently  a  person  of 
luperior  rank.  She  addressed  her  conversation  to  me  with  a  volu- 
bility and  earnestness  which  showed  she  felt  confident  of  being  un- 
ierstood,  but  I  regret  that  our  total  ignorance  of  their  language  de- 
nied me  the  pleasure  of  interpreting  even  one  word;  and  I  could 
|»nly  infer  from  her  tears  and  a?tions,  that  her  tale  was  of  a  serious 

id  distressing  nature.  She  soon  however  dried  her  tears,  and  sat 
beside  us  with  the  greatest  composure. 

While  1  was  engaged  with  the  chief,  the  officers  strolled  about. 
Bach  'accompanied  by  a  circle  of  friends,  and  were  kindly  treated. 

Ir.  Belclier,  in  his  researches,  discovered  three  drums,  very  simi- 

ar  to  those  at  Otalieite,  as  described  by  Captain  Cook.  The  lar- 
gest was  about  five  feet  six  inches  high,  and  fourteen  inch.es  in  diam- 
eter. It  was  made  of  the  trunk  of  a  porou  tree  (^hiiiscus  liliaccus), 
(Jollowed  out,  and  coveied  with  a  sliark's  skin,  which  had  been 
itrained  ov^r  it  when  wet ;  the  edges  were  secured  with  sinnet, 
leatly  made,  and  finished  with  pieces  of  cloth  plaited  in  with  fine 
line ;  it  was  othoi',\ ise  ornamented  about  the  trunk,  and  stood  uj)on 
lour  feet.  It  was  brought  to  me,  and  I  oU'ered  the  areghc  some 
tnives  in  exchange,  \/hicli  he  refiised  until  the  number  was  increas- 
ed.    When  the  bargain  was  concluded,  the  young  chief  showed  the 

lanner  of  playing  upon  the  instrument,  and  convinced  us  that  his 
kkill  nuist  have  been  the  result  of  long  practice.— -The  art  consisted 
In  giving  rapid  strokes  with  the  palm  ol  tlie  right  hand,  and  placing 
jtlie  left  at  the  same  time  so  nicely  as  to  check  the  vibrations  with- 
out stopping  them,  which  jiroduced  a  harmon..  sound,  differing  from 

Jiat  of  any  instrument  of  the  kind  1  had  ever  heard. 
The  other  drums  were  about  three  feet  and  a  half  in  height  by 


<     Ml 


i: 


Hi 


\l 


[f  'i 


# 


jt^  ::«;!5^^3bcl.' 


7^ 


'i':im 


H' 


]  \.  i 


m 


118 


VOYAfiE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[k 


nine  inclics  in  diameter,  similar  in  other  respects  to   the  h\re;e  od^ 
Tlio  proficiency  in  execution  to  which  the  natives  had  attained,  anj 
the  perfection  in  the  manufacture  of  these  instruments,  leave  lin], 
douht  of  tlieir  taking  nuich  dehght  in  the  amusement  of  danein 
though,  generally  s|)eaking,  they  do  not  appear  to  be  a  lively  ik 
pie.     1  used  every  endeavour,  but  in  vain,  to  persuade  the  aic;!  ; 
to  favour  us  with  one  of  these  exhibitions,  and  among  others,  lii];i 
the  marines  go  through  some  of  their  manoeuvres,  in  the  hope  il, 
he  would  exhibit  something  in  return ;  this,  however,  had  a  v(r 
different  effect  from  what  was  intended  ;  for  the  motions  of  the  m' 
rines  were  misinterpreted,  and  so  alarmed  some  of  the  bystanders,  il, 
several  made  off,  while  others  put  themselves  into  an  attitude  ofd, 
fence,  so  that  I  speedily  dismissed  the  party. 

This  interview  was  deficient   in  those  ceremonies  which  ihrr 
such  a  lively  interest  over  the  voyages  of  Captain  Cook,  and, « 
was  equally  mortiiying  to  us,  it  did  not  obtain  those  supplies  oil 
and  vegetables  which  generally  attended  his  visits  ;  although  wcw,  I 
ed  a  considerable  time  in  the  hope  of  inducing  v  le  .^hiefs  to  come-  [ 
board  the  ship,  and  in  the  expectation  of  so  re  .     '  >'iies   befure  ii| 
quilled  ihein,  but  to  no  jnu'pose.     I  there!.;'     iro'     ..  )ned  ourparf 
together,  and  we   took  leave   of  the  chiefs,  both  of  whom  roiiii 
leaving  us  in  the  hands  of  the  mob.     On  removing  the  drum  wli; 
had  been  sold  by  the  areghe,  two  of  the  natives  laid  violent  liin, 
upon  it,  and  demanded  something  more  than  had  been  given.   ] 
avoid  distinbance  I  complied  with  their  request  by   doubliiii;  i  > 
original  sum  ;  but  this,  so  far  from  securing  the  drum,  rendered 
])robability  of  our  obtaining  it  without  force  more  remote.     I  broii 
the  old  chief  back  to  explain  the  matter  to  him,  but  he   showd 
disposition  to  interfere  ;  and  foreseeing  the  consequence  of  jup 
ing,  I  left  our  piu'chase  in   the   hands  of  the  islanders,  disgii 
with  their  dishonesty  and  cunning. 

On  our  return,  about  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  we  ol  -,i 
tiiC  meals  of  the  natives  laid  out  iq)on  tables,  made  of  sUd 
uboul  a  yard  from  the  ground,  and  standing  in  the  middir    ;i  i!, 
ved  areas  in  front  of  the  huts.     These  tables  again  r<':'    n- !;il  ( 
in  the  Friendly  Islands,  and  the  execrable  sour  puddinu,  V  a  n: 
bundles  with  banana-leaves,  of  which  the  fare  of  the   natives 
sisled,  is  the  same  as  the  maliie  used  there,  at  Otaheite,  anil  ai  i  j 
Mar<iucsas,  &c.;  but  in  flavour  it  more  innnediutely  reminded  i, 
the  JNukahiwans.  i 

We  f()un(l  fewer  companions  in  our  retreat  from  the  village  |i:  | 
at  our  introduction   to  it,  and   were  attended  by  three  individii  j 
only,  who  had  iittaclied  themselves  to  some  oflicers,    though  iiiai; 
followed  at  a  distance.      I  was  a  little  behind  the  party  when  am,: 
wlioia  1  did  not  recollect  to  have  seen  ''vlb'-e,  graspi  ,'    .u   In  i::: 


."JI   I 


■■«. 


ANi)    nEEniNO  S    STRAIT. 


119 


1826.] 

Irni  in  which  I  held  my  gun,  with  a  feigned  view  of  lielping  me  over 
[he  ru"'ged  path,  while  a  second,  j)utting  his  anus  across,  slopped 
up  tlie  road;  several  others,  at  the  same  tunc,  joined  in  the  demand 
t)f '  Homy  !  homy  !'  and  prepared  us  for  what  shortly  took  place. 
[  managed  to  get  rid  of  my  unruly  assistants  without  ibrce,  and  join- 
fed  the  marines ;  hut  Lieutenant  Wainwright  (who,  unknown  to  us 

1,  was  left  in  the  village,  ignorant  of  our  having  quitted  it  until  in- 

jrnied  by  one  of  the  natives),   was  not  so  fortunate.     He  passed 

llirough  the  village,   where   the  natives  were  assembled  in  circles, 

Ipparently   in  debate,  without  molestation,  and  in  a  few  minutes 

fcrould  have  been  among  our  party ;  when  several  of  the  natives, 

leeing  him  alone,  assailed  him,  and  endeavoured  to  throw  him  down 

nd  rob  him.     Finding  they  could  not  succeed,  they  attacked  him 

nth  their  poles  :  but  he  was  then  fortunately   within  a  short  dis- 

ice  of  us ;  and  wc  became  for  the  fast  time  apprised  of  his  dan- 
ger by  hearing  him  ccM  for  assistance.  JNIr.  Belcher,  and  those  who 
vere  nearest,  ran  to  him  ;  but  the  islanders  assailing  them  with  stones, 

id  the  attack  on  their  part  becoming  general,  I  ordered  the  marines 
fire,  which  put  them  to  flight,  and  I  am  happy  to  say  that  wc 
iw  only  one  of  them  wounded. 

Thus  this  interview  with  the   natives  terminated  in  a  manner 

irhich  their  general  conduct  might  have  led  us  to  expect,  though 

le  result  is  much  to  be  deplored.     It  comfirmed  my  opinion,  that 

le  natural  disposition  of  the  people  is  highly   unfavourable    to  in- 

jrcoMrse,  and  that  they  are  restrained  from  acts  of  violence  and  ag- 

Iression  by  the  operation  of  fear  alone.     With  ihli  impression,  and 

inding  the  island  so  extremely  deficient  in  supplies,  that  the  natives 

iould  not  spare  us  any  thing,  I  was  careless  about  renewing  our  vis- 

\,   and  we  embarked  without  further  molestation,  and  proceeded 

the  ship. 

The  bay  in  which  this  village  is  situated  lies  on  the  N.  E.  side  of 
fount  Duff ,  it  i.i  bordered  by  a  sandy  beach,  behind  which  there 

a  thick  wood  of  bread-fruit  and  cocoa-nut  trees ;  above  it,  to  the 
3ft,  there  is  a  second  or  upper  village,  upon  a  level  piece  of  ground, 
^here  the  natives  retreat  in  case  of  necessity.  The  bay  would  bo 
^ery  desirable  for  an  anchorage,  were  it  not  for  the  coral  knolls  at 

entrance,  which  make  the  navigation  difficult  even  for  a  boat. 

tfter  this  visit,  the  boats  were  again  sent  surveying;  and  on  the 

|2th  wo  had  completed  all  ihat  our  tinvj  would  admit  of,  by  fixing 

"le  position  of  a  number  of  ccal  knolls  which  are  dis|)ersed  over 

le  navigable  part  of  the  lagoon,  t;:o  greater  part  of  which  may  be 

leen  from  a  ship's  mast-head  before   she  conies  upon  them.     Our 

mly  want  afterwards  was  a  little  fire-wood  ;  and  having  noticed  sev- 

wal  logs  lying  upon  the  shore  abreast  of  the  ship,  INFr.  Holcherwas 

lent  to  purchase  them.     The  natives  readily  disposed  of  their  prop- 


%.^^ 


1 


120 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[•fdl 


USi  ^ 


T  I 


...  i 


4i 


li 


t^  .'' 


erty,  and  were  very  friendly  as  long  as  they  were  receiving  pre;. 
ents  ;  but  directly  he  attempted  to  take  away  the  trees,  the  isltiii,j. 
ers  collected  in  the  wood,  and  pelted  tiie  boat's  crew  with  stoiiK 
Three  logs  were  however  got  off,  and  Mr.  Belcher  was  putting  r 
for  more,  when  the  natives  again  beginning  to  throw  stones,  lie  df, 
sisted. 

it  i:.  to  be  regretted  that  the  disposition  of  the  natives  obstiucte 
the  friendly  intercourse  we  were  anxious  to  establish.  The  task  c 
correcting  their  evil  propensities  unfortunately  devolved  upon  us,;^ 
the  first  visiters  to  the  islands  ;  and  we  could  not  prolong  our  star 
or  devote  the  time  that  was  necessary  while  we  did  remain,  to  «* 
ciliate  their  friendship.  But  though  unsuccessful  in  this  respect.;: 
is  to  be  hoped  that  our  visit  will  prove  beneficial  to  others,  liy  t 
recting  them  to  a  port  in  which  ships  may  be  refitted  or  rt-paiKr 
and  where  they  may  procure  a  sujiply  of  good  water,  than  \vlii( 
nothing  is  more  important  to  the  navigation  of  these  seas :  as  il 
indispensable  article  is  not  found  to  exist  in  a  pure  state  any  wlii: 
between  Otaheite  and  tlie  coast  of  Chili,  a  distance  of  4000  mil, 
Pitcairn  Island  excepted,  where  the  dilKculty  of  getting  it  oft' 1^ 
already  been  mentioned.  It  is  also  presumed,  that  the  position.; 
the  islands  having  been  ascertained,  the  peaks  of  Mount  Duff,  whir 
are  high  and  distinguishable  at  a  great  distance,  will  serve  as  nzm 
to  the  labyrinth  of  coral  islands  which  the  navigator,  after  pas^ii 
thisgroupe,  has  to  thread  on  his  way  to  ihe  westward. 

This  groupe  was  discovered  by  the  ship   Duff,  on  a  missioiir 
voyage,  in  1797,  and  named  by  ^Ir.  Wilson,  her  commander,  aii 
Admiral  Lord  Gambier.     It  consists  of  five  large  islands  and  sev^. 
ral   small  ones,   all  situated  in  a  lagoon  formed  by  a  reef  of  con 
The  largest  is  about  six  miles  in  length,  and  rises  into   two  peat 
elevated  1248  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.     These  peaks,  mIi-i 
were  called  after  the  Duff,  are  in  the  form  of  wedges,  very  ron>; 
cuous  at  a  distance,  and  may  be  seen  fourteen  or  fifteen  leaiiiei 
All  the  islands  are  steep  and  rugged,  particularly  Marsh  hh: 
which  at  a  distance  resembles  a  ship.     The  external  form  of  tiie-^ 
island  at  once  conveys  an  impression  of  their  volcanic  origin  ;  an- 
on examination,  they  all  appeared  to  have  been  subjected  totlieai 
tion  of  great  heat. 

"  The  general  basis  of  the  rocks  is  a  porous  basaltic  lava,  in  fn. ; 
place  passing  into  a  tuffacious  slate ;  in  another,  into  the  solid  ai 
angular  column  of  compact  basalt,  containing  the  imbedded  niinfr 
rals  which  characterize  that  formation,  and  bearing  a  close  reseiii' 
blance  in  this  particular  to  the  basaltic  formation  of  the  county  oi 
Antrim  in  Ireland.  There  is,  however,  less  of  the  basalt  and  more 
of  the  porous.  The  zealites,  soapstonc,  chalcedony,  olivine,  and 
calcareous  spar,  are  formed  in,  and  connect  the  relationship  of  these 


m. 


'X 


182G.] 


AND  BEERINO  S  STRAIT. 


1'2I 


distant  formations;  whilst  the  dinerent-colourcd  jaspers  arc  peculiar 
to  these  islands.  There  is  also  another  obvious  distinctive  feature 
produced  by  the  numerous  dykes  of  a  formation  differing  in  compo- 
sition and  texture,  and  marked  by  a  defined  line.  They  are  gene- 
rally more  prominent  than  the  common  rock:  traversing  a  great  many, 
if  not  all  the  islands,  in  a  direction  nearly  east  and  west;  generally 
about  eighteen  inches  wide,  nearly  perpendicular  to  the  horizon,  or 
dipping  to  the  southward.  Their  texture  is  sometimes  compact, 
sometimes  vesicular,  with  few  if  any  imbedded  minerals,  excepting 
one  on  ISfarsh  Island,  which  contained  great  quantities  of  olivine. 
Upon  a  small  Island  contiguous  to  this,  the  harder  dyke  crosr.es  the 
highest  ridge,  and  divides  on  the  eastern  side  into  two  parts  which 
continue  down  to  the  water's  edge."* 

Lieutenant  Belcher,  whose  scientific  attainments  also  enabled  him 
to  aj)preciate  what  fell  under  his  observation,  noticed  every  where 
the  trap  formation  abounding  in  basaltic  dykes  also  lying  N.  E.  and 
S.  VV.,  and  seldom  deviating  from  the  perpendicular ;  or  if  they  did, 
it  was  to  the  eastward.  We  are  indebted  to  him  for  specimens  of 
jzealite,  carbonate  of  lime,  calcareous  spar,  crystals,  an  alcime,  oli- 
;  vine,  jasper,  and  chalcedony  ;  and  had  our  stay,  and  his  other  du- 
ties admitted,  we  should,  no  doubt,  have  received  from  him  a  more 
[detailed  account  of  this  interesting  groupc. 

There  are  no  appearances  of  pseudo-craters  on  any  of  the  islands, 
I  nor  do  they  seem  to  have  been  very  recently  subjected  to  fire,  be- 
ing clothed  with  verdure,  and  for  the  most  part  with  trees.      Con- 
spicuously opposed  to  these  lofty  rugged  formations,  raised  by   the 
agency  of  fire,  is  a  series  of  low^  islands,  derived  from  the  opposite 
element,  and  owing  their  construction  to  myriads  of  minute  litho- 
I  phytes  endowed  w  ith  an  instinct  that  enables  them  to  separate  the 
necessary  calcareous  matter  from  the  ocean,  and  with  such  minute 
particles  to  rear  a  splendid  structure  many  leagues  in  circumference. 
[A  great  wall  of  this  kind,  if  we  may  use   the  expression,  already 
[surrounds  the  islands,  and,  by  the  unremitting  labour  of  these  subma- 
jrine  animals,  is  fast  approaching  the  surface  of  the  water  in  all  its 
I  parts.     On  the  N.  E.  side,  it  already  bears  a  fertile  soil  beyond  the 
i  reach  of  the  sea,  sustains  trees  and  other  subjects  of  the  vegetable 
\ingdom,  and  affords  even  an  habitation  to  man. 

In  the  opposite  direction  it  dips  from  thirty  to  forty  feet  benealli 
I  the  surface,  as  if  purposely  to  afford  access  to  shipping  to  the  la- 
goon within.  Whether  this  irregularity  be  the  consequence  of  un- 
equal growth,  or  of  the  original  inclination  of  the  foundation,  is  a 
question  that  has  excited  much  interest.  All  the  islands  we  sub- 
sequently visited  were  similar  to  these  in  having  their  weather  or 


ISA':  i-j 


• 


vol..  1. 


♦Mr.  CoUic'g  Journal. 

16 


122 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[J, 


on. 


IH 


■  f 


I'  ii  I 


eastern  side  more  advanced  tlian  the  opposite  one.  The  outer  sido 
of  thr  wall  springs  from  unfathomable  depths  ;  the  inner  doscend^ 
with  a  slope  to  abour  120  or  150  feet  below  the  surface.  This  al- 
ruptness  causes  the  sea  to  break  and  expend  its  fury  upon  tlio  rey 
without  disturbing  the  waters  in  the  lagoon.  The  coral  aniina|< 
consequently  rear  their  delicate  structure  there  without  apprulKn. 
sion  of  violence ;  and  form  their  submarine  grottoes  in  all  tlic  \,iij. 
ed  shapes  which  fancy  can  conceive.  They  have  already  enciid^ij 
each  of  the  islands  with  a  barrier,  which  they  are  daily  extending; 
and  have  reared  knolls  so  closely  as  almost  to  occupy  all  the  iionii. 
ern  part  of  the  lagoon.  Move  independent  tribes  are  in  other  pm;, 
bringing  to  the  surface  numerous  isolated  columns,  tending  to  tik 
same  end  ;  and  all  seem  to  be  going  on  with  such  activity,  tlim  a 
speculative  imagination  migh  picture  to  itself  at  no  very  remote  pe. 
riod,  one  vast  plain  covering  the  whole  surface  of  the  lagoon,  yidi!. 
ing  forests  of  bread  fruit,  cocoa-nuts,  and  other  trees,  and  ultiiiuitf.lv 
sustenance  to  a  numerous  population,  and  a  variety  of  animals  siilj. 
servient  to  their  use. 

The  general  steepness  of  the  volcaic  islands  ofthisgroupe  isj;u(l;, 
that  the  soil  finds  a  resting  place  on  a  comparatively  small  portion  of 
them  ;  and  on  the  coral  islands  it  is  scarcely  deep  and  rich  enouji, 
exposed  at  it  is  to  the  sea  air,  to  contribute  much  to  the  suppoitoi 
man.  A  soil  formed  from  the  decomposition  of  the  basaltic  loik-, 
irrigated  by  streams  from  the  mountains,  requires  nothing  but  a  due 
proportion  of  care  and  labour  on  the  part  of  the  natives  to  render 
it  very  productive.  There  is,  however,  a  sad  neglect  in  this  respoci. 
which  is  the  more  extraordinary,  as  the^e  are  no  quadrupeds  ot 
poultry  on  the  islands,  and  without  vegetable  productions  the  na- 
tives have  only  the  sea  to  depend  upon  (or  their  subsistence.  Tiie 
wild  productions  are  a  coarse  grass  (SocchantinJ'atuum),  which  cm- 
ers  such  parts  of  the  mountains  as  arc  neglected  or  are  too  steep  for 
cultivation.  Lower  down  we  noticed  the  caj)paridia,  a  ])roenm- 
bent  pentandroussin'ub,  the  nasturtium,  sesuvium  of  Pitcairn  Ishiml, 
the  eugenia,  and  scajvola  koenigii  ;  and  close  down  to  the  shore  a  con 
volvulus  covering  the  brown  ro-..v  with  its  clusters  ofleaves  and  piiii; 
blossoms.  The  porou  and  miroe  (Thespesia  'popularia)  were  more 
abundant,  the  nono  not  common.  Tiiey  must  also  have  the  aiiti 
and  amia,  as  their  weapons  are  made  of  it,  though  we  did  notseiii 
The  timber  of  which  their  rafts  are  constructed  is  a  red  wood,snnR- 
what  porous,  and  of  softer  grain  than  the  aniai.  Some  of  tlie-e 
trunks  are  so  large  as  at  first  to  excite  a  suspicion  of  their  liaviiii 
been  drifted  from  a  more  extensive  shore  ;  but  the  quantity  wlikli 
they  possess,  several  logs  of  which  were  newly  shaped  out,  afl'on!- 
every  reason  for  believing  that  it  is  the  produce  of  their  own  Mil- 
leys.     Thoy  are  not  deficient  in  variety  of  edible  fruits  and   rooi-. 


18-26.] 


AND  BEERINO  S  STRAIT. 


123 


1 


nor  in  those  kinds  which  are  most  pioductivc  and  nutritious.  Be- 
sides the  tee-plant,  sweet  potato,  appe,  sugar-cane,  watermelon,  co- 
coa-nut, plantain,  and  banana,  they  possess  the  bread-fruit,  which 
in  Otaheite  is  the  staff  ol'  life,  and  the  taro,  a  root  which  in  utility 
corresponds  with  ii  in  the  Sandwich  Islands.  AVere  they  to  pay 
but  a  due  regard  to  the  cultivation  of  the  two  last  of  these  valuable 
productions,  an  abundance  of  wholesome  food  might  be  substituted 
for  tiie  nauseous  mixture  mahie,  which,  though  it  may,  as  indeed  it 
does,  support  life,  cannot  be  said  to  do  more.  Rats  and  lizards 
were  the  only  quadrupeds  we  saw  upon  the  islands.  Of  the  feath- 
ered tribe,  oceanic  birds  form  the  grea.or  part ;  but  even  these  are 
rare,  compared  with  the  numbers  that  usually  frequent  the  islands 
of  the  Pacific,  arising,  no  doubt,  from  the  Gambier  Islands  being 
),,Kibited.  The  whole  consist  of  three  kinds  of  tern,  the  white, 
black,  and  slate-coloured — of  which  the  first  is  most  numerous,  and 
the  last  very  scarce  ;  together  with  a  species  of  procellarria,  the 
white  heron,  and  the  tropic  and  egg  birds.  Those  which  frequent 
the  shore  are  a  kind  of  ])harmatopus,  curlew,  charadriue,  and  tota- 
nus ;  and  the  woods,  the  wood-pigeon,  and  a  species  ofturdus, 
somewhat  resembling  a  thiush  in  plumage,  but  smaller,  possessing 
a  similar  though  less  harmonious  note.  The  insects  found  hero 
were  very  few,  the,  common  house-fly  excepted,  which  on  almost 
all  the  inhabited  islands  in  the  Pacific  is  extremely  numerous  and 
annoying.  Of  fish  there  is  a  great  variety,  and  many  are  extreme- 
ly beautiful  in  colour;  as  well  those  of  large  dimensions,  which  we 
caught  with  lines,  consisting  of  several  sorts  of  perca,  as  the  numer- 
ous family  of  the  order  of  branchiostigi,  which  sported  about  the 
coral. 

The  largest  portion  of  the  natives  of  the  Gambier  Islands  belong 
to  a  class  which  INlr.  J.  H.  Forster  would  place  among  the  first  va- 
riety of  the  human  species  in  the  South  Seas.  Like  the  generality 
of  uncivilized  people,  they  are  good-natured  when  pleased,  and 
harmless  when  not  irritated;  obsequious  when  inferior  in  force,  and 
overbearing  when  otherwise  ;  and  are  carried  away  by  an  insatiable 
desire  of  ap})ropriating  to  themselves  every  tiling  whicli  attracts  their 
fancy — an  indulgence  which  brings  them  into  many  quarrels,  and 
often  costs  them  their  lives.  If  respect  for  tlie  deceased  be  consid- 
ered a  mark  of  civilization  and  humanity,  they  cannot  be  called  a 
bar!)arous  peoj)le  ;  but  they  possess  no  other  claims  to  a  \\orthier 
designation.  In  features,  language,  and  customs,  they  resemble  the 
Society,  Friendly,  Marquesa,  and  Sandwich  Islanders  ;  but  they 
(lilFer  from  those  tribes  in  one  very  important  point — an  exemption 
from  those  sensual  habits  and  indecent  exhibitions  which  there  p-v. 
\;i(le  all  ranks.  It  may  be  said  of  the  Gambier  Islanders  what  few 
can  assert  of  any  people  inhabiting  the  same  part  of  the  globe — that 


w 


■  — -"TfiiTrt-'-^r-Ti 


\H 


124 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Jnii 


'f  ^  Iff 


[FWi.,, 


m 


\  .■'- 


during  the  whole  of  our  uittreourse  witli  them  we  did  not  witness  an 
indecent  act  or  gesture.  There  is  a  great  mixture  of  feature  unci  of 
colour  among  them ;  and  we  should  prohably  have  found  a  (iitl'it. 
ence  of  dialect  also,  could  we  have  made  ourselves  masters  of  tlnit 
language.  It  seems  as  if  several  tribes  from  remote  parts  of  the  IV 
cific  had  here  met  and  mingled  their  peculiarities.  In  complexion 
and  feature  wc  could  trace  a  resemblance  even  to  the  Avidely  se])anu(.(| 
tribes  of  New  Zealand,  New  Caledonia,  and  Malacca.  Their  modt 
of  salutation  is  the  same  as  that  which  existed  at  the  Friendly,  So- 
ciety, and  Sandwich  Islands :  they  resemble  the  inhabitants  of  the 
latter  almost  exclusively  in  tattooing  the  face,  and  the  inhabitants  (,i  I 
the  former  in  staining  their  skin  from  the  hips  to  the  knees.  Tliei,- 
huts,  coral  tables,  and  pavements,  arc  nearly  the  same  as  at  tlin 
Friendly  Islands  and  the  Marquesas  ;  but  they  are  more  nearly  allj. 
ed  to  the  latter  by  a  custom  which  otherwise,  I  believe,  is  at  pre<. 
ent  confined  to  them,  and  without  a  due  observance  of  wliic!]. 
Krusenstern  says,  it  is  in  vain  to  seek  a  matrimonial  alliance  at  S: 
Christina.*  In  the  preservation  of  their  dead,  wrapping  theniin,:! 
abundance  of  cloth  and  mats,  they  copy  the  Otalieitans  ancl  Hapacaih:  ; 
though  in  the  ulthnate  disposal  of  them  in  caves,  and  keeping  iIki 
above  ground,  they  differ  from  all  the  other  islanders.  Their  l;i;i 
guage  and  religion  are  closely  allied  to  several,  yet  they  difterossen-  i 
tially  from  all  the  above-mentioned  tribes  in  having  no  huge  caiveo 
images  surmounting  their  morals,  and  no  fiatookas  or  wattas.  Ui.. 
like  them  also,  they  are  deficient  in  canoes,  though  they  might  PiiMl,  ; 
construct  them ;  they  have  neither  clubs,  slings,  nor  bows  and  ;ii. 
rows ;  and  are  wanting  in  those  marks  of  selfinutilation  which  sowt 
tribes  deem  indispensable  on  the  death  of  their  chiefs  or  estoeiiK ; 
friends,  or  in  cases  when  the  wish  to  a})pease  tlieir  oflended  dcitv. 
They  are  for  the  most  part  fairer  and  handsomer  than  the  Saiiii- 
wich  Isliinders,  but  less  ellbminate  than  the  Otalieitans.  The  mi- 
rage height  of  the  men  is  above  tha;tr'of  Englishmen,  but  tliey  w: 
not  so  robust.  One  man  who  came  on  board  measured  six  feet  an! 
half  an  inch,  and  one  on  shore  six  feet,  two  and  a  half  inches.  Tk  "| 
former  measured  round  the  thorax,  under  the  arms,  three  feet  tin. 
and  a  half;  and  a  person  of  less  stature  three  feet  one  inch.  Tk 
thickest  part  of  the  middle  of  this  person's  arm,  when  at  rest,  was 
eleven  inches  and  three-eighths.  These  dimensions  of  girth  \vi!l,l 
believe,  be  found  less  in  proi)ortion  than  those  of  the  labouring  rk" 
of  our  own  countrymen,  though  the  general  appearance  of  tlie.-e 
islanders  at  first  leads  to  a  different  conclusion.  They  are  upiidii 
in  figure,  and  round,  but  not  robust.  In  their  muscles  there  i^a| 
flabbiness,  and  in  the  men  a  laxity  of  integument,  which  allow  s  lliiir  I 


*Scc  Krusenstcrn's  Embassy   to  Japan. 


1826.] 


ANO  BEERINO  S  STRAJT. 


125 


skin  to  hang  in  folds  about  the  belly  and  thighs,  to  a  greater  degree 
than  those  I  afterwards  noticed  at  Otaheite  or  Woahoo.    Two  caus- 
ies  may  be  assigned  for  this;  the  nature  of  their  food,  and  their  in- 
idolcnt  habits. 

In  general  the  Gambier  Islanders  have  a  fine  Asiatic  countenance, 
[with  mustachios  and  beards,  but  no  whiskers;  and  when  their  heads 
[are  covered  with  a  roll  of  white  cloth, common  custom,  they  might 
[pass  for  Moors.  It  is  somewhat  remarkable  that  we  perceived  none  of 
jthe  fourth  class,  or  those  nearly  allied  to  negroes  thus  habited,  but 
jthat  it  seemed  to  be  confined  to  those  of  the  lightest  complexion.    The 
[colour  of  their  eyes  is  either  hazel  or  dark  brown  :    they  are  small, 
[deep  in  the  head,  and  have  generally  an  expression  of  cunning. 
[Their  eyebrows  are  naturally  arched,  and  seldom  meet  in  front ;  the 
[cheek  bones  are  not  so  prominent  as  in  the  fourth  class,  and  the  lips 
[are  thinner ;  the  ears  are  moderately  large,  and  the  lobes  attached 
jto  the  cheek,  as  in  all  the  Pitcaim  Islanders,  but  not  perforated : 
[tlie  nose  in  general  is  aquiline ;  the  teeth,  in  the  fourth  class  espe- 
Icially,  not  remarkable  for  evenness  or  whiteness,  and  seem  to  fall 
lout  at  an  early  period  ;  the  hair  is  turned  back  and  cut  straight,  and 
Iwould  be  quite  black,  were  it  less  subjected  to  the  sun,  or  like^that 
jftlie  islanders  just  mentioned,  well  oiled  ;  but,  exposed  as  it  is  to  a 
scorcliing  sun,  it  becomes  dried  up  and  of  different  hues  on  the  same 
liead;  and  combs  being  unknown,  it  is  bushy  and  impervious;  the 
lustachios  grow  long,  but  the  beards,  which  are  kept  from  three  to 
[four  inches  in  length,  are  sometimes  brought  to  a  point,  at  others 
[divided  into  two;  one  man,  however,  was  observed  with  a  beard 
[which  hung  down  to  the  pit  of  the  stomach :    the  hands  are  large, 
[but  the  feet  small  and  elegant,  and  the  toes  close  together,  from 
?hich  it  is  probable  that  they  pass  a  great  portion  of  their  time  upon 
Itheir  rafts,  or  idly  basking  in  the  sun, — perhaps  in  lying  upon  their 
stone  pavements  like  the  Hapaeans.      The  women  are  below  the 
common  standard  height,  and  in  personal  shape  and  beauty  far  in- 
ferior to  the  males.     The  wife  of  the  chief,  who  has  been  already 
[described,  was  the  finest  woman  I  saw  among  them.      Her  dress 
[may  be  considered  a  fair  specimen  of  the  general  covering  of  the 
[women,  who  have  no  ornaments  of  any  kind,  and  appeared  quite 
'  iditforent  to  the  beads  and  trinkets  w^hich  were  offered  them. 

Tattooing  is  here  so  univ^ersally  practiced  that  it  is  rare  to  meet 
la  man  without  it ;  and  is  carried  to  such  an  extent  that  the  figure 
lis  sometimes  covered  with  small  checkered  lines  from  the  neck  to 
[the  ankles,  though  the  breast  is  generally  exempt,  or  only  orna- 
Imented  with  a  single  device.  In  some,  generally  elderly  men,  the 
[face  is  covered  below  the  eyes,  in  which  case  the  lines  or  net- work 
laie  more  open  than  on  other  parts  of  the  body,  probably  on  account 
of  the  pain  of  the  operation,  and  tenninate  at  the  upper  part  in  a 


'I' 


'■*'~'T-T  Tnt 


N< 


M 


1-26 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Ji>n. 


■M 


Iv 


straight  lino,  from  ear  to  car,  passing  over  the  bridge  of  tho  no<,, 

Witli  tliese  exceptions,  to  whicii  we  may  add  the  fashion,  wiUisnnie 

few,  of  bhie  lines,  resembhng  stocliings,  from  the    liddleoftiio  tlii.ri, 

to  the  ankle,  the  effect  is  becoming,  and  in  a  greui  measure  dcstiov, 

the  appearance  of  nakedness.     The  patterns  which  most  ini|m,vp 

the  shape,  and  which  appear  to  me  peculiar  to  this  groupc,  jf^ 

those  which  extend   from  the  armpits  to  the  hips,  and  are  chauj 

forward  with  a  curve  which  seems  to  contract  the  waist,  and  ui  a 

short  distance  gives  the  figure  an  elegance  and  outline  not  unlilif, 

that  of  the  figures  seen  on  the  walls  of  the  Egyptian  tombs.    |. 

would  be  useless  to  describe  the  various  fanciful  attempts  to  elliK,. 

the  natural  colour  of  the  skin  ;  the  most  common  only  will  be  nniic. 

ed  : — A  large  cross,  about  eight  inches  in   diameter,  left  w  liito  ci; 

each  side,  on  the  latissimus  dorsi ;  and  a  smaller  one  on  each  slmui. 

dor,  or  on  the  upper  part  of  the  arm:  also  a  narrow  stripe  passin- 

from  one  shoulder  to  the  other  in  a  curved  line  over  the  lower  piii; 

of  ihe  neck,  uniting  the  tattooing  over  the  fleshy  part  of  the  dv\wf\ 

iiiMscle ;  and  in  many  so  joined  as  to  leave  the  natural  skin  in  il,^ 

form  of  a  cross  in  tho  middle,     imitations  of  blue   pantaloons  aiii 

hreeches  are  also  very  common,  and  sleeves  which  divide  at  tlie 

wrist,  and  extend  along  the  convexity  of  the   metatarsal  bones  i, 

the   tips  of  the   fingers  and  thumbs,  leaving  a  space  between  lli! 

thumb  and  forefinger,   on  which  the  mark  V  is  punctured.      The 

chief  had  this  mark,  the  crosses,  the  slender  waist,  and  the  pania- 

loons.     The  women  are  very  little  subjected  to  this  torture.     Tl>; 

wife  of  the  areghe  had  an  armlet  on  each  arm ;  a  female  who  cam 

with  her  had  a  square  upon  her  bosom,  and  some  few  had  stodi- 

ings.     From  the  circumstance  of  none  of  the  boys   being   taltoodi 

it  is  probable  the  practice  commences  here,  as  in  many  otlier  i-1- 

ands,  after  puberty. 

The  lines  in  all  cases  are  draw^n  with  great  precision,  and  aliiin-: 
always  with  tastC;  and  bespeak  great  proficiency.  The  practice  un- 
doubtedly im})roves  the  ai)peurance  of  the  figure,  and  may  ])erlia| -. 
as  in  the  Marquesas,  distinguish  certain  classes  or  tribes.  At  Uii- 
heite  it  is  su])posed  to  harden  the  skin,  and  render  it  less  liable  lu 
be  blistered  by  the  sun.  Covering  the  face  with  lines  is  very  rare 
in  the  South  Seas,  being  almost  entirely  confined,  accordinj:  lo 
Cook,  to  the  Sandwich  Islanders  and  New  Zealanders.  In  no  in- 
stance did  we  observe  the  lips  or  tongues  tattooed,  as  is  the  prac- 
tice with  the  Sandw  ich  Islanders  on  the  death  of  an  intimate  fiiciid, 
1  have  estimated  the  number  of  souls  inhabiting  these  islands  iii 
1500,  from  the  number  and  size  of  uie  villages.  Mr.  Collie,  wlio 
estimates  them  from  other  data,  says,  "On  the  1st  January,  when 
the  boats  went  to  land,  200  people,  for  the  most  part  in  the  prime  of 
life  were  counted  on  the  beach.     On  the  9th,  in  the  village,  wi 


1820. 

enuint 
sions  i 
fruiii  I 
ous. 
truth, 
ages  ol 
accura 
Switze 
ity  no 
lialiitiui 
The 
iter  we 
j  low  ing 
"Ai 
[who  in 
those  w 
tlier  uj)i 
under  a 
ofmal-c 
whose  s 
of  eicati 
tl'o  rem 
eve.   an 
Aiiothei 
tlie-size 
no  doubi 
which  b( 
the  back 
:  portion  c 
j  to  create 
'j   plication, 
*  salt  wate 
ing  oil  of 
''i  neous  afi 
frequentl 
lor  design 
llost  some 
Iwith  two 
[another  b 
[flies  wer< 
Imost  unc 
[mefactior 
jin  the  coi 
[lurking  w 
[entirely  r 


: 


S-20.] 


|H-< 


AND  BEERINC  S  STUAIT. 


127 


)f  tllC    110., 

11,  with  son,,,   : 

3  0l'tll(}tl|'|ri 

5ure  (li'stiDv, 
lost  improi,. 

id  arc  {lr;uv|: 
3t,  and  lit  J 
le  not  uiilil^,, 
n  toiiil)s.  1 
ipts  to  eirai. 
will  be  notic. 
aft  wliiie  OB  | 
II  eacli  sliniil. 
tripe  pas?iii; 

IC  lower  |i;ii; 

if  the  (k'h()i,; 
1  skin  ill  ilif 
italooiis  M 
livide  at  tlw 
sal  bones  in 
between  iIk 
;ured.  The 
:1  the  })ania- 
)rturo.  Tl* 
le  who  caiii^ 
had  stoct- 
tattoocii, 
other  i-!- 


enumerated  'iOO  persons,  men  and  women.  On  botii  these  occa- 
sions it  is  hinhlv  probaijie  that  the  men  in  the  vif;or  of  life  iiad  come 
from  the  adjoininu;  parts  of  the  island,  and  from  tlie  islands  contij!;u- 
oiis.  We  may  then  assume,  on  the  nearest  approximation  to  the 
truth,  that  there  were  between  250  and  300  males  between  the 
aiics  of  twenty  and  fifty — say  275;  which  accordin|i  to  the  most 
accurate  census  of  population  and  bills  of  mortality  in  Sweden  and 
Switzerland,  where  the  niodifyinji  circumstances  ui  ;  in  all  probabil- 
ih  not  very  ditlerent,  would  give  1285  for  the  total  number  of  in- 
liahitants." 

The  diseases  and  deformities  of  these  people  arc  very  few.     Af- 
ter we  quilted  the  islands,  the  surgeon  favoured  me  with  the  fol- 
I  lowing  report : — 

•' Among  more  than  three  hundred  men,  women,  and  children, 
[who  indiscriminately  surrounded  us  at  the  village  on  the  9tli  ;  among 
those  who  had  ])reviously  come  on  board,  and  at  other  times,  whe- 
Itlicr  upon  the  shore  or  on  their  rafts;'  we  saw  very  few  labouring 
[under  any  original  deformity  or  annoying  disease.  The  only  case 
jof  mal-conformalion  was  a  wide  fissure  in  tiie  palate  of  one  man, 
jwliose  speech  was  considerably  alFected  by  it.  No  external  mark 
[of  cicatrization  in  the  upper  lip  denoted  that  the  internal  defect  was 
[tlo  remains  of  a  hare-lip  or  any  injury.  One  man  had  a  very  un- 
leve.  and  ragged  stump  of  the  right  arm,  but  without  any  discharge. 
JAiiother  had  a  steatomatous  tumour  over  one  shoulder-blade,  about 
jtlie-sizc  of  a  billiard  ball.  One  disease  was  so  common  that  I  have 
ino  doubt  it  was  endemic  :  this  was,  patches  of  the  lepro  vulgaris, 
(which  being  void  of  any  imflammatory  appearance,  and  confined  to 
[the  back  in  all  who  were  affected  with  it,  and  in  a  considerable  pro- 
portion of  these  to  a  small  space  between  the  shoulders,  appeared 
Ito  create  no  alarm,  and  most  probably  called  forth  no  curative  ap- 
jlication.  The  frequent  and  alternate  exposure  of  the  men  to  the 
saltwater  and  rays  of  the  sun,  with  a  scanty  supply  of  the  anoint- 
ling  oil  of  the  cocoa-nut,  would  favour  the  breaking  out  of  this  cuta- 
leous  affection.  The  mats  which  they  tied  round  their  necks,  and 
Ifrequently  allowed  to  hang  down  behind,  whether  through  accident 
lor  design,  would  tend  to  avert  the  effects  of  exposure.  A  few  had 
[lost  some  of  their  front  teeth  ;  and  we  saw  one  man,  on  the  9th, 
Iwilli  two  uncicatrized  and  bare  but  clean  wounds,  one  before  and 
[another  behind  the  middle  of  the  right  deltoid  musch  .  w 'lere  the 
[flies  were  feeding  without  molestation,  and  the  person  seemed  al- 
[most  unconscious  of  them  and  of  the  ulcers.  No  preternatural  tu- 
[nicliiction  denoted  any  excess  of  inflammaticn.  No  unhealthy  hiie 
[ill  tlie  countenance  of  man  or  woman  intimated  any  internal  disease 
|liiiking  within  the  body."  By  far  the  greater  part  of  the  males  go 
leiitirely  naked,  except  a  girdle,  which  is  made  of  a  banana-leaf  split 


I    1 


:  ,< 


I 


^. 


.1  i"  iirhiiniiii-» 


rfynBBB^ 


12ft 


VOYAOE  TO  TIIK  PACIFIC 


U' 


m. 


■^1  \ 


i  >: 


riiiw  ' 


#,l 


into  slireds,  and  lied  roinid  liio  loins,  not  intended  to  answer  t||, 
|)iMi»ose  of  conceahncnt ;  and  they  dinbr  from  all  other  iMlial)itai,t, 
oftlio  Pacific  in  havin|;  no  niaro.  Some  wear  a  turban;  others- 
piece  of  paper  cloth  thrown  over  the  shoulders. 

The  huts  of  the  Gamhier  Islanders  are  so  small  that  they  can  on. 
ly  be  intended  as  sleepinj^-places  during  bad  weather ;  tlioy  areir 
length  from  eight  or  ten  feet  to  fifteen,  excepting  the  larger  Ikhh,, 
of  the  areghe  ;  they  are  built  of  the  porou  wood,  and  covered  i; 
with  a  pointed  roof  thatched  over  with  the  leaves  of  the  paliii-tii» 
In  some  tlie  door  is  scarcely  three  feet  high,  and  it  is  neccssarvi 
creep  on  all-fours  to  enter.  On  the  inside  they  are  neat,  and  ti 
floor  is  covered  with  mats  or  grass.  The  larger  huts  of  the  \  ill;, , 
on  Mount  DufFare  so  constructed  that  one  side  can  be  conveniont. 
ly  removed,  by  which  means  they  are  rendered  cool  and  coinron. 
able. 

The  large  house,  or  that  of  the  avcghc,  was  about  thirty-nini 
feet  in  length  by  eighteen  or  twenty  in  width  ;  the  pitch  of  tho  k- 
\\as  about  twenty-five  feet  in  height,  and  that  of  the  perpcndiciil. 
sides  of  the  house  about  ten  feet ;  but  these  dimensions  wore  d 
tained  by  estimation  only,  the  natives  appearing  to  have  an  olijtf, 
tion  to  our  pacing  the  ground  for  the  purpose  of  measuroiiioni 
The  south  side  of  the  house  was  left  open,  and  the  ends  were  iiiai;. 
of  an  open  framework  of  upright  poles  trave  ^h1  at  right  angles  K 
smaller  spars,  so  that  the  roof  and  the  nr  ^,ide  were  the  oni: 
parts  covered  in.     They  served  an  excel'  "otection  from  ti' 

sun  while  the  trade-wind  traversing  every  corner  of  the  apartinet 
rendered  it  agreeably  cool.  On  that  part  of  the  house  where  th 
side  was  deficient,  there  was  a  foundation  for  the  wall  about  tlirp 
feet  in  height  thrown  up,  composed  of  large  blocks  of  coral,  sliap« 
in  a  very  workmanlike  style,  similar  to  those  mentioned  by  Cook  a: 
the  Friendly  Islands,  and  well  put  together:  it  stood  about  tlim 
feet  within  the  outer  part  of  the  roofing,  and  served  as  a  seat  fonlif 
chiefs  as  well  as  for  many  others. 

We  perceived  no  furniture  in  their  houses,  and  some  of  our  ol& 
cers  thon.ght  it  was  purposely  put  out  of  sight.  The  only  iiteni 
were  gourds  and  cocoa-nut  shells.  The  tables  were  made  oi'slal> 
of  coral,  or  sometiiiies  of  wood,  in  which  case  they  arc  caiveil 
they  are  about  a  yard  long,  and  are  placed  ui)on  wooden  or  stnK 
pedestals  sufficiently  high  to  prevent  the  depredations  of  flic  ial> 
They  stand  in  the  middle  of  the  paved  areas  in  front  of  the  lioii>' 
es,  from  which  we  infer  the  practice  of  eating  in  the  open  air 
Their  food  has  already  been  described  as  consisting  principally  o 
sour  paste  (the  mahie  of  the  Friendly  Islands,  Otaheite,  Marquesas 
&tc.),  made  with  plantains,  bread-fruit,  and  boiled  tee-root.  Tk 
paste  or  mahie,  when  fresh  and  hot,  has  not  a  disagreeable  taste ;  a 


IH-^G.| 


AND  iir.r.nixfi  b  stfiait. 


W.) 


slight  lliivour  f)!'  baked  apjilos  may  In;  (Iistiii{;;uislie(l :  hut  it  soon 
hciiiiis  to  smell  very  ofrciisivoly  ;  so  imich  so,  that  tlio  seamen 
would  not  touch  it  with  their  hands  to  tlirow  it  overboard.  The 
tec-jilant  (dracana  tennwa/ii)  is  a  fusiform  root  about  two  feet  long, 
and  as  thick  as  the  arm ;  its  flavour  is  not  unpleasant,  but  from  its 
coarseness  it  must,  to  ordinary  stomachs,  be  very  indigestible.  The 
natives  collect  the  fibres  in  their  mouths,  and  spit  them  out  in  round 
balls.  Fish  and  shell-fish,  of  wl  ich  the  large  pearl  oysters  and 
cliauia  are  in  tlie  greatest  abundance,  must  form  a  material  part  of 
the  food  of  these  people;  they  have,  besides,  the  sweet  potato,  taro, 
and  the  before-mentioned  fruits ;  but  these  cannot  be  abundant,  as 
they  never  brought  any  of  them  to  us  for  sale,  and  frequently  de- 
ceived us  with  emi)fy  cocoa-nuts. 

Their  method  of  procuring  fish  is  by  lines  and  nets,  and  a  con- 
trivance still  resorted  to  in  Otalieite,  consisting  of  casting  into  the 
sea  a  great  many  branches  of  the  cocoa-nut  tree,  and  other  boughs, 
tied  together,  and  allowing  tliem  to  remain  some  time,  during  which 
the  small  fish  become  entangled,  and  are  dragged  out  with   them. 
The  nets  and  lines,  as  well  as  cord,  siniict,  &:c.,  arc  all  made  from 
jtlie  bark  of  the  porou,  as  in  all  the  islands  of  Polynesia.     One  net 
(which  we  measured  was  ninety  feet  in  liigth.     In  the  manufacture 
of  these,  they  display  a  greater  proficii  iicy  than  in  their  cloth,  which 
I  is  much  inferior  to  that  at  Pitcairn  Island  or  Otaheite.     Their  im- 
plements for  this   purpose  are  the  same  in  shape  as  those  at  the 
above-mentioned  places;  but  the  one  whlcli  we  got  differed  in  not 
being  grooved. 

Their  weapons  consist  of  spears,  and  a  staff  flattened  at  the  end 
[like  a  whale-lance  :  they  are  made  of  a  hardwood  highly  polished. 
The  spears  were  headed  with  bone,  or  the  sting  rays  of  the  raia 
\(j)asti7ica);  a  custom  which  once  existed  at  Otaheite,  and  now  ex- 
Itcnds  to  many  of  the  low  islands.  The  antiquity  of  this  practice  is 
jtraced  to  very  remote  periods,  as  it  is  said  that  the  head  of  the 
Ispear  presented  by  Circe  to  Telegonus,  and  with  which  he  uncer- 
[emoniously  slew  his  father  Ulysses,  was  of  this  kind.  At  Gambier 
llsland  they  remove  the  heads  of  the  spears  when  not  required,  a 
Isquare  piece  being  left  at  the  end  of  the  staff  to  receive  it.  Besides 
jthese  weapons,  they  always  carry  large  sticks. 

Contrary  to  the  general  custom,  no  canoes  are  seen  at  Gambier 
[Islands,  but  rafts  or  katamarans  are  used  instead.  They  are  from 
[forty  to  fifty  feet  in  length,  and  will  contain  upwards  of  twenty  per- 
Isoiis.  They  consist  of  the  trunks  of  trees  fastened  together  by  rope 
land  cross-beams :  upon  this  a  triangular  sail  is  hoisted,  supported 
[by  two  poles  from  each  end  ;  but  it  is  only  used  when  the  wind  is 
[very  favourable ;  at  which  time,  if  two  or  three  katamarans  happen 
[to  be  going  the  same  way,  they  fasten  on  and  perform  their  voyage 

VOL.  I.  17 


A' 


1.^ 


Ti 


m 


:'m 


M.I 


130 


VOYAGE  TO  THE   PACIFIC 


{Jm. 


together.  At  other  times  they  use  very  large  paddles  made  of  a 
dark  hard  wood,  capable  of  a  good  pr''-h,  and  neatly  executed. 
Some  of  them  had  a  hand  or  foot,  carved  at  the  extremity  of  tl;c 
handles,  very  well  finished.  They  are  above  five  feet  and  a  half  in 
length,  including  two  feet  eight  inches  of  blade,  which  is  about  afoot 
in  width,  curved,  and  furnished  with  a  small  point  or  nail  at  the  ex- 
tremity. In  shallow  water  they  make  use  of  long  poles  for  puiuini;, 
in  preference  to  their  pac'dles. 


}ft      : 


Quit  Gn 
ic-D 
day  Is 
row  I- 

Osnabi 

DiscoN 

f         iciy  at 

J         Island- 

I  ^"  ^ 

I    hier  Isi; 

I    our  anc 
near  th» 

!    fore  we 

wlieie  -.' 

S.W.,  I 

strong  ir 

the  prev 

felt  man 

sions  a  n 

in  upon 

thereby 

island  th: 

small  sai 

Jounds  it 

tirely  los 

Wolfe,  o 

erably  cl 

then  stoo 

Hood's  1; 

In  the 

and  blacl< 

;is  we  pr 

Hood's  Ii- 

10  consist 


M 


(J, 


0)1. 


Tiade  of  ;i 
executod. 
nity  of  tl;, 
id  ft  lialf  ill 
ibout  ;i  foot 
1  at  tlie  ex- 
hv  puntiiii;, 


mi 


18-26.  J 


AND  BEEUINC  S  STRAIT- 


131 


CHAPTER  Vn. 


i 


S  Quit  Gambler  Islands — Visit  Lord  Hood's  Island— Watcr-Spout— Clermont  Tonne- 
re — Description  of  tiic  Island  and  Natives,  Canoe,  &c. — Serlo  Island — Whitsua- 

'  day  Island — Laproon  Island — Thrum  Cap  Island — Egnicnt  Island — Discover  Bar- 

row Island  i  Description  of  it — Carysfort  Island — Discover  Cockburn  Island — 
Osiiaburgh  Island — Find  tlie  Wreck  of  the  Matilda — Blinfli's  Lagoon  Ishaid — 
Discovery  of  Byam  Martin  Island — Meet  a  Party  of  Chain  Islanders  there — Mys- 

i  tcry  attaci  cd  to  their  History — Take  two  of  them  on  board  the  ship — Gloucester 
Island — See  Bow  Island. 

1  On  the  moiTiing  of  the  13th  of  January  we  weighed  from  Gam- 
M  liier  Isiauuri,  and  deepened  the  water  so  much  that,  after  quitting 
%  ovr  anchorage,  we  could  get  no  soundings  with  the  hand-hnes  until 
'  near  the  bar,  which  was  plainly  distinguished  by  its  colour  long  be- 
fore we  came  upon  it.  There  was  not  less  than  seven  fathoms 
where  we  passed,  and  yet  the  sea,  which  rolled  in  heavily  from  the 
S.  W.,  all  but  broke,  notwithstanding  the  wind  had  been  blowing 
strong  in  the  opposite  direction  for  a  week  before.  This  effect  of 
the  prevalent  south-westerly  gales  in  the  high  latitudes,  which  is 
felt  many  luuidred  miles  from  the  place  whence  it  proceeds,  occa- 
sions a  material  obstacle  to  landing  upon  the  low  islands,  by  rolling 
in  upon  the  shore  in  an  opposite  direction  to  the  trade-wind,  and 
thereby  making  it  more  dangerous  to  land  on  the  lee-side  of  the 
island  than  on  the  other.  In  the  Gambler  groupe  there  are  several 
small  sandy  islands  at  the  S.  W.  extremity  of  the  chain  that  sur- 
rounds it,  over  which  the  sea  broke  so  heavily  that  they  were  en-, 
tirely  lost  am'  1st  the  foam.  1  named  them  Wolfe  Islands,  after  Mr, 
Wolfe,  one  of  the  ni-dshipmen  of  the  ship.  We  passed  them  tol- 
erably close,  admirinr;  the  grand  scene  w!  '.h  they  presented,  and 
then  stood  on  a  lurtherly  course  with  the  mtention  of  visiting  Lo''d 
Hood's  Island. 

In  the  forenoon  of  the  following  day  several  white  tern,  noddies, 
and  black  gulls  came  about  us,  and  gradually  increased  in  numbers 
as  we  proceeded  on  our  course.  A  few  hours  afterwards  Lord 
Hood's  Isliiid  was  reported  from  aloft.  On  nearing  it,  we  found  it 
10  consist  oi  an  assemblage  of  small  islets,  rising  from  a  chain  of  co- 


I'l 


I    1 


l■^•2 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[J(tn. 


''•■m 


l^  %   .  I 


i  ' 


11 


val,  even  with,  or  a  little  above  the  water's  edge.  Upon  tliost 
grew  a  variety  of  evergreen  trees  thickly  intertwined,  among  wliieli 
the  broad  leaves  and  clusters  of  fruit  of  the  pandanus  were  con- 
spicuous,  and  beneath  them  a  matted  surface  of  moss  and  grass,  so 
luxuriant  and  invitingly  cool,  that  we  were  almost  tempted  to  land 
at  any  risk.  The  sea,  however,  broke  so  heavily  upon  all  parts  of 
the  shore  that  the  attempt  would  have  been  highly  dangerous,  and 
we  consequently  collected  all  the  information  that  was  required,  and 
hastened  our  departure.  Krusenstern  states  in  his  "  Memoire  sur  la 
Pacifique,"  that  this  island  is  inhabited  :  such  must  undoubtedly  have 
been  the  case  once,  as  we  saw  a  square  stone  hut,  similar  to  those 
described  at  Crescent  Island,  on  one  of  its  angles  ;  but  there  are 
no  human  beings  upon  it  at  present,  which  indeed  we  conjectured 
to  be  the  case  before  our  boats  made  the  circuit  of  it,  from  the  num. 
ber  of  sea  birds  in  the  vicinity,  and  also  from  the  shoals  of  shark; 
which  followed  the  boats,  and  even  bit  at  the  oars ;  for  these  a  . 
mals,  like  most  others,  seem  to  have  learned  by  experience  to  avoid 
the  haunts  of  man.  The  only  living  thing  seen  upon  the  shore  \vas 
a  grey  heron  gorging  itself  with  black  star-fish. 

Lord  Hood's  Island  was  discovered  by  Mr.  Wilson  in  the  Mi- 
sionary  ship  DufF;  it  is  11.2  miles  in  length,  and  4.7  miles  in  width. 
in  a  north  and  south  direction  ;  and  like  almost  all  the  coi'al  islands 
it  contains  a  lagoon,  and  is  steep  on  all  its  sides. 

After  quitting  it,  we  looked  in  vain,  the  next  day,  for  an  island 
which  Mr.  Wilson  supposed  he  saw ;  but  not  finding  it  in  or  neai 
the  situation  assigned,  and  he  being  himself  doubtful  whether  it  mighi 
not  have  been  a  cloud,  I  did  not  bestow  longer  time  in  the  search, 
but  steered  for  the  island  of  Clermont  Tonnere,  which  was  seen  on 
the  18th.  This  island  bore  a  very  close  resemblance  to  Hood's  Is- 
land, but  was  inhabited,  and  clothed  with  cocoanut  trees.  The  sea 
broke  so  heavily  upon  all  parts  of  the  shore  that  there  was  no  pos- 
sibility of  landing  in  our  boats ;  yet  the  natives  put  oiT  in  their  ca- 
noes and  paddled  to  us.  They  were  a  very  inferior  race  to  tlio-e 
of  the  Gambler  Islands,  and  seemed  more  nearly  allied  in  feature  to 
those  of  Mangea  and  New  Caledonia ;  yet  here  also  there  was 
among  them  a  great  diversity  of  complexion.  In  one  of  the  canoes 
there  was  a  man  nearly  as  dark  as  an  African  negro,  with  woolly 
hair,  tied  in  a  knot  like  the  Radackers ;  and  another  with  a  lidii 
complexion,  sandy  hair,  and  European  features. 

About  forty  of  the  natives  came  down  to  the  beach  when  wc  ap- 
proached it,  with  bunches  of  feathers  and  leaves  fastened  upon  sticks, 
and  with  bludgeons  in  their  hands,  l^otli  sexes  were  naked  with 
the  exception  of  their  maros,  and  without  any  ornaments  or  tattoo- 
ing. Iron,  which  they  called  "  loki,"  was  the  most  marketable  arti- 
cle, but  the  surf  was  so  high  that  there  was  very  little  comiinuiica- 


t!on  wi 
would 
a  nunil 
cxamin 

gi'eates 


:.\l 


1826.] 


AND  BEERING  S  STUAIT. 


133 


lion  with  them.  The  men,  who  came  off  to  us  in  their  canoes, 
would  not  suffer  oui-  boats  to  approach  them.  After  'laving  made 
a  number  of  presents  to  one  of  them,  we  thought  wc  might  at  least 
examine  his  canoe ;  but  he  and  his  comrades  paddled  away  with  the 
createst  precipitation,  and  were  so  terrified  at  the  approach  of  the 
boat  that  they  jumped  overboard  and  swam  towards  the  shore. 

The  canoe  was  constructed  with  small  pieces  of  wood  well  put 
together  and  sewed  with  the  bark  of  a  tree,  and,  like  all  the  single 
canoes  of  Polynesia,  was  provided  with  an  outrigger.  She  carried 
two  men,  but  was  propdlled  almost  entirely  by  one,  the  other  being 
fully  occupied  in  throwing  out  the  water,  which  came  in  plentifully 
at  both  sides  pnd  over  the  stern.  Could  ihey  have  avoided  this 
and  applied  the  efforts  of  both  to  the  paddles,  her  rapidity  would 
have  surpassed  that  of  our  boat ;  but  as  it  was,  she  was  soon  over- 
taken. We  did  not  keep  these  poor  fellows  longer  in  the  water  than 
uc  could  help,  but  quitted  the  canoe  as  soon  as  we  had  examined 
its  construction,  and  had  the  satisfaction  to  observe  them  return 
to  it,  and  get  in,  one  at  a  time,  at  the  stern,  and  then  paddled 
ashore. 

The  dialec*.  of  the  people  of  Clermont  Tonnore  was  quite  differ- 
ent from  that  of  the  Gambier  Islanders,  though,  from  a  few  words 
which  we  distinguished,  there  is  no  doubt  of  the  language  being 
radically  the  same.  According  to  our  calculation,  the  wdiole  popu- 
lation did  not  exceed  two  hundred. 

The  island  is  ten  miles  in  length,  but  very  narrow,  particularly 
at  the  extremities,  and,  when  seen  at  a  distance,  does  not  appear  to 
be  half  a  mile  wide.  It  is  of  the  same  formal  ion  as  Lord  Hood's  Is- 
land, but  more  perfect.  With  the  excoplion  of  a  few  breaks  in  the 
southern  shore,  by  which  the  sea,  wh  high,  may  at  times  commu- 
nicate with  the  lagoon,  it  is  altogether  am  water.  At  the  extrem- 
ities and  angles  the  soil  is  more  elevated  than  in  oflicr  [)arts,  as  if 
the  influence  of  the  sea  had  been  more  felt  upon  them,  and  heaped 
up  the  coral  higher.  They  are,  also,  better  proviiled  with  shrubs, 
and  particularly  cocoa-nut  trees,  the  soil  resting  upon  the  debris 
being,  I  suppose,  deeper.  The  lagoon  had  several  small  ishMs  in 
it,  and  the  shores  all  round  are  steep,  and  abound  with  fish,  bni  we 
did  not  see  any  sharks. 

Captain  Duperrey,  in  his  voyage  round  the  world  in  theCoquille, 
visited  this  island,  and,  supposing  it  to  be  a  nuw  discovery,  named 
it  Clermont  Tonnere,  after  the  French  aninistcr  of  marine.  It  is 
evident,  however,  from  its  situation  agreeing  very  nearly  with  ■'  > 
of  an  island  discovered  by  the  Minerva,  that  it  must  be  the  same; 
no  other  being  found  sufficiently  near  to  answer  the  desciiptiuM. 
Captain  Duperrey  has,  no  doubt,  been  misled  by  tlie  (liiueiision.s 
pven  of  the  island  by  the  Minerva;  but  that  mav  l)e  easily  uccoim- 


h  '; 


134 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


y< 


'an 


M 


incr- 


■,■'.«" 


1' 


■i  'fi' 


»     I 


escapo 


nee. 


ted  for,  by  supposing  the  island  to  have  been  seen  from  the 
va  lengthwise,  and  at  a  distance. 

While  we  were  off  Clermont  Tonnerc,  we  had  a  narrow 
from  a  water-spout  of  more  than  ordinary  size.  It  approached 
amidst  heavy  rain,  thunder,  and  lightning,  and  was  not  seen  uiiij 
was  very  near  to  the  ship.  As  soon  as  we  were  within  its  influe 
a  gust  of  wind  obliged  us  to  take  in  every  sail,  and  the  topsails 
which  could  not  be  furled  in  time,  were  in  danger  ofsplittin; 
The  wind  blew  with  great  violence,  momentarily  changing  its  di- 
rection,  as  if  it  were  sweeping  round  in  short  spirals  ;  the  rainwhicj] 
fell  in  torrents,  was  also  precipitated  in  curves  with  short  interval, 
of  cessation.  Amidst  this  thick  shower  the  water-spout  was  discov. 
ered,  extending  in  a  tapering  form  from  a  dense  stratum  of  cloud 
to  within  tliirty  feet  of  the  water  where  it  was  hid,  by  the  foam  oi 
the  sea  being  whirled  upwards  with  a  tremendous  giration.  1 
changed  its  direction  after  it  was  first  seen,  and  threatened  to  pas; 
over  the  ship  ;  but  being  diverted  from  its  course  by  a  heavy  "u-i 
of  wind,  it  gradually  receederi.  On  the  dispersion  of  this  niagnifi. 
cent  phenomenon,  we  observed  the  column  to  diminish  gradually 
and  at  length  to  retire  to  the  cloud,  from  whence  it  had  desceudeil. 
in  an  undulating  form. 

Various  causes  have  b  jen  assigned  for  these  formations,  wliic!: 
appear  to  be  intimately  connected  with  electricity.  On  the  pre-- 
ent  occasion  a  ball  of  fire  was  observed  to  be  precipitated  into  tii; 
sea,  and  one  of  the  boats,  which  was  away  from  th"  ship,  was ;; 
surrounded  by  lightning,  that  Lieutenant  Belcher  thought  it  advi-j. 
ble  to  get  rid  of  the  anchor,  by  hanging  it  some  flithoms  under  waier 
and  to  cover  the  seamen's  muskets.  From  the  accounts  of  this  oi- 
ficer  and  Mr.  Smyth,  who  were  at  a  distance  from  the  ship.  i!v 
column  of  the  water-spout  first  descended  in  a  spiral  form,  until  i; 
met  the  ascending  column  a  short  distance  from  the  sea ;  a  sccok 
and  a  third  were  afterwards  formed,  which  subsequently  uiiitec 
into  one  largo  column,  and  this  again  separated  into  three  smat 
spirals,  and  then  dispersed.  It  is  not  impossible  that  the  liidil, 
rarified  air  confined  by  the  woods  encircling  the  lagoon  islands  ma; 
contribute  to  the  formation  of  these  phenomena. 

A  canoe  ii'  ;ir  (he  ship  very  wisely  hastened  on  shore  at  tlio  ap- 
proach of  the  I'uil  weather,  for  had  it  been  drawn  within  the  voii''\ 
of  the  whirlwind  it  must  have  perished.  We  had  the  greatest  ap- 
prehension for  our  boats,  which  were  absent  during  the  stor.n.  ba 
fortunately  they  suffered  no  injury. 

Neither  the  barometer  nor  sympeisometer  were  sensibly  aflbctei 
by  this  partial  disturbance  of  the  atmosphere  ;  but  the  tenijioratme 
underwent  a  change  of  eight  degrees,  falling  from  8*2°  to  7'1°;  al 
midnight  it  rose  to  78°.     On  tlie  day  succeeding  this  occiineiicc 


of  the  3 
and,  ^vll 
west, 
hillock  i 
be  cknn 
Meniv^ir 
than  anj 
at  its  exi 
recomnif 
archipela 
gator  wl 
height  of 
Some 
inhabited 
ral  men  i 
long  pole 
hundred, 
usual  cov 
the  nativi 
knot  on  t 
j  tattooing 
i  feet  in  lei 
I  clubs.     \ 
I      This  is 
I  tion,  and 
I  is  of  cor; 
windward 
however, 
eighth  of 
for  a  ship 
I  so  low  till 
her  situat 
with  seve 
the  extrei 
trees,  thei 
would  rec 
sides  assis 
estimate  t 
We  lef 
hove-to  ir 


i!  «U 


i 


me.] 


AND    BEERING  S    STRAIT. 


135 


several  water-spouts  were  seen  in  the  distance,  tlic  weather  being 
squally  and  rjoomy. 

After  exaniniing  the  vicinity  of  Clcnnont  Tonncre  for  the  island 
of  the  Minerva,  and  seeing  no  other  land,  we  steered  for  Serle  Isl- 
and, whicli  was  discovered  at  daylight  on  the  21st  January,  bearing 
west.  Its  first  appearance  was  that  of  a  low  strip  of  land  with  a 
hillock  at  each  extremity,  but  these,  on  a  near  approach,  proved  to 
be  clumps  of  large  trees.  Admiral  Krusenstern,  in  his  valuable 
Meniv-ir  on  the  South  Pacific,*  observes,  that  Serle  Island  is  higher 
than  any  other  island  of  the  low  archipelago  ;  that  it  has  two  hills 
at  its  extremities,  and  a  third  near  its  centre  ;  and  on  this  account 
recommends  it  as  a  place  of  reconnoissance  for  ships  entering  the 
archipelago.  In  this,  however,  he  has  been  misled  by  some  navi- 
gator who  mistook  the  the  trees  for  hills,  and  over-estimated  the 
height  of  them,  as  the  tallest  does  not  exceed  fifty  feet. 

Some  columns  of  smoke  rising  from  the  island  showed  that  it  was 
inhabited,  and  on  rounding  the  N.  W.  extreme  we  perceived  seve- 
ral men  and  women  running  along  the  beach,  dragging  after  them 
long  poles  or  spears.  The  population  altogether  cannot  exceed  a 
hundred.  The  men  were  entirely  naked,  but  the  women  had  the 
usual  covering.  They  were  of  the  same  dark  swarthy  colour  with 
the  natives  of  Clermont  Tonnere,  with  the  hair  tied  in  a  similar 
knot  on  the  top  of  the  head,  and  like  them  they  w-ere  deficient  in 
tattooing  and  ornaments.  Their  weapons  were  poles  about  twenty 
feet  in  length,  similar  to  those  of  the  Friendly  Islanders,  and  heavy 
clubs.     We  could  not  perceive  any  canoes. 

This  island  is  seven  miles  and  a  half  in  length,  in  a  ^'^.  W.  direc- 
tion, and  two  and  a  quarter  miles  in  width  in  its  broadest  part.  It 
is  of  coral  formation,  and  very  similar  to  that  just  described ;  its 
windward  side  is  the  most  perfect :  the  southern  side  of  the  chain, 
however,  differs  in  being  wider,  and  having  a  barren  flat  full  an 
eighth  of  a  mile  outside  the  trees.  On  this  account  it  is  necessary 
for  a  ship  to  be  cautious  in  approaching  it  during  the  night,  as  it  is 
so  low  that  the  breakers  would  be  the  first  warning  of  the  danger  of 
her  situation.  The  lagoon  is  very  narrow,  and  apparently  shallow, 
with  several  islands  in  the  middle.  Besides  the  clumps  of  trees  at 
the  extremities,  '.vhiuh  at  a  distance  have  the  appearance  of  banyan 
trees,  there  are  several  clusters  of  palms ;  a  distinction  which  I 
would  recommend  to  the  attention  of  conmanders  of  vessels;  as,  be- 
sides assisting  them  in  identifying  the  islands,  it  will  enable  them  to 
estimate  their  distance  from  ♦'^em  with  tolerable  precision. 

We  left  Serle  Island  on  the  morning  of  the  2-2d,  and  at  sunset 
hove-to  in  the  parallel  of  Whitsunday  Island.     This  island,  discov- 

•  Page  276,  4to.  edition. 


TB#- 


"""I'^^'^tl^^" 


Lii  St- 


,'ll* 


I  ^~ 


#j 


1.36 


VOYAGE  TO  THE   PACIFIC 


orcd,  l)y  Captain  Wallis  in  17G7,  is  situated  forty  miles  tothc  wes 
ward  of  the  place  he  has  assigned  to  it,  and  we  consequently  raiuo 
tlie  westward  all  the  next  day,  in  expectation  of  seeing  it,  biiiji 
was  not  reported  from  the  masthead  until  late  in  the  cvenini;;. 
the  morning  of  the  23d  the  boats  succeeded  in  landing,  thoui^li  witl, 
some  difficulty ;  and  found  indubitable  proofs  of  the  island  having 
been  inhabited  ;  but  no  natives  were  seen.  Under  a  large  chiiiiji 
of  trees  we  observed  several  huts,  eight  feet  by  three,  thatched  witli 
dried  palm  leaves,  the  doors  of  which  were  so  low  that  it  was  ne- 
cessary to  crawl  upon  the  ground  to  enter  the  apartments  within, 
Near  these  dwellings  were  some  sheds  and  several  piles  of  chewcj 
pandanus  nuts. 

The  island  was  traversed  in  various  directions  by  well-trodden 
pathways :  not  far  from  the  huts  were  several  reservoirs  of  water 
cut  about  eighteen  inches  into  the  coral,  and  about  five  feet  from  the 
general  surface  of  the  soil ;  the  water  in  them  was  fresh,  but  lio!i, 
neglect  the  reservoirs  were  nearly  filled  with  decayed  leaves,  ami 
emitted  a  putrid  smell.  In  another  direction  we  saw  several  slalj- 
of  coral  placed  erect,  to  denote  burial  places  ;  and  near  the  openin, 
to  the  lagoon  there  were  several  rows  of  stakes  driven  into  the 
ground  for  the  purpose  of  taking  fish.  But  what  most  attracted  our 
attention  was  a  heap  of  fish  bones,  six  feet  by  five,  neatly  cleaned, 
and  pilled  up  very  carefully  v/ith  planks  placed  upon  them  to  pre- 
vent their  being  scattered  by  the  wind. 

We  found  the  island  only  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length,  instead  o! 
four  miles,  as  stated  by  Captain  Wallis ;  steep  all  round ;  of  corI 
formation  ;  well  wooded,  and  containing  a  lagoon.  The  general 
height  of  the  soil  was  six  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  of  wliici! 
nearly  two  feet  were  coral  rock  ;  from  the  trees  to  the  surf  tliere 
was  a  space  of  hard  rock  nearly  150  yards  in  length,  covered  \y]\]'. 
about  a  foot  of  water,  beyond  which  it  descended  rapidly,  and  at 
500  yards  distance  no  bottom  could  be  found  with  1500  feet  of  line. 
On  the  inner  side  from  the  trees  to  the  lake,  there  was  a  gentle  de- 
clivity of  muddy  sand  filled  with  shells  of  the  cardium,  linedo,  tri- 
dacna),  gigas,  and  a  species  of  trochus.  The  trees,  which  formeda 
tolerably  thick  wood  round  the  lagoon,  were  similar  to  tliosea! 
Clermont  Tonnere,  consisting  principally  of  pandanus  and  cocoa- 
nut,  interwoven  with  the  tournefortia,  scoevola,  and  lepidium  pisci- 
dium. 

On  the  south  side  of  the  island  there  was  a  very  narrow  entrance 
to  the  lagoon,  too  shallow  for  the  passage  of  boats,  even  had  the 
water  been  smooth.  It  was  of  this  opening,  I  presume,  tliat  Cin- 
tain  Wallis  observes  that  the  surf  was  too  high  upon  the  rocks  for 
his  boats  to  attempt  the  passage. 

The  lagoon  was  comparatively  shallow  ;  the  edges,  for  a  ronsid- 


-'iii. 


w  entrance 


1826.] 


AND  BKEniNG  S  STRAIT. 


137 


u 


'j 


p 


crable  distance,  sloped  gradually  toward  the  centre,  and  then  deep- 
ened suddenly  ;  the  edge  of  the  bank  being  nearly  perpendicular. 
This  bank,  as  well  as  numerous  islets  in  the  lagoon,  were  l(:)rtned 
of  coral  and  dead  and  live  tridacna?  shells.  The  space  between  the 
islets  was  very  rugged,  and  full  of  deep  holes. 

In  the  lagoon  there  were  several  kinds  of  brilliantly  coloured 
fish;  on  the  reef,  some  fistularia  ;  and  in  the  surf  a  brown  and  black 
cliKtodon  with  a  black  patch  at  the  junction  of  tlie  tail  with  the 
body.  Upon  the  land  were  seen  a  few  rats  and  lizards,  a  white  he- 
ron, a  curlew,  some  sandpipers,  and  a  species  of  columba  resemb- 
ling the  columba  australis. 

In  the  evening  we  bore  up  for  Queen  Charlotte's  Island,  an- 
other coral  formation  also  discovered  by  Captain  Wallls,  and  so 
grown  up  that  we  could  not  see  any  lagoon  in  its  centre,  as  we  had 
done  in  all  the  others.  Several  huts  and  sheds  similar  to  those  at 
Whitsunday  laland  occur  in  a  bay  on  its  northern  shore,  but  there 
were  no  inhabitants.  It  may  be  remembered  that  when  Captain 
Wallis  visited  this  island,  the  natives  took  to  their  canoes  and  fled 
to  the  next  island  to  the  westward :  whether  they  did  so  on  the 
present  occasion  we  could  nut  determine,  but  in  all  probability  we 
should  have  seen  them  if  they  had.  Queen  Charlotte's  Island  af- 
forded Captain  Wallis  a  plentiful  supply  of  cocoa-nuts,  but  at  pres- 
ent not  a  tree  of  that  description  is  to  be  seen.  The  shore  is  more 
steep  than  either  Wliitsunday  or  Clermont  Tonnere,  and  the  huts 
more  numerous. 

At  two  o'clock  in  vhe  afternoon  we  quitted  Queen  Charlotte's  Isl- 
and, and  in  two  hours  afterwards  saw  Lagoon  Island,  wliich  was 
discovered  by  Captain  Cook;  the  former  bearing  S.  6°  W.  true, 
the  latter  due  north,  by  which  ai^  excellent  opportunity  occurred  of 
comparing  the  longitudes  of  tiiose  celebrated  navigators. 

Tlie  next  morning  we  coasted  the  north  side  of  Lagoon  Island 
very  closely,  while  the  barge  navigated  the  other.  It  is  three  miles 
in  length  in  a  W.  by  S.  direction,  and  .  mile  and  a  quarter  in  width. 
Its  general  figure  has  been  accurately  described  by  Captain  Cook : 
the  southern  side  is  still  the  low  reef  of  breakers  which  he  saw,  and 
the  three  shallow  openings  on  the  north  shore  still  exist,  though  one 
of  them  has  almost  disappeared.  Two  cocoa-nut  t  ■'"  s  in  the  cen- 
tre of  the  island,  which  Cook  observes  had  the  appearance  of  flags, 
are  still  waving ;  "  the  tower"  at  the  western  end  is  also  there,  but 
has  increased  to  a  large  clump  of  cocoa-nut  trees:  a  similar  clump 
has  sprung  up  at  the  eastern  end.  Tlie  lagoon  is,  in  some  parts, 
very  shallow  and  contracted,  and  has  many  dry  islets  upon  it.  The 
shore  is  steep,  as  at  the  other  coral  islands,  excepting  on  the  south 
side,  which  should  not  he  approached  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile. 

We  brought-to  oft' a  small  village  at  at  the  N.  W.  extremity  of 

VOL.  I.  18 


;  I 


-r  'Im.^fc  .«."  - 


138 


VOYAOE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[J. 


(in. 


■:*, 


IV    S 


^ 


0111 


tlie  Island,  and  sent  two  boats  on  shore.  The  natives  seeing 
ajjproacli  came  down  to  the  beach  armed  witli  poles  from  twciitvti) 
twenty-five  feet  in  length,  with  bone  heads,  and  short  clubs  sliji'|if(j 
like  a  bill-hook ;  but  before  they  reached  the  surf  they  laid  donn 
their  weapons.  At  first  they  beckoned  our  people  to  land ;  lj„| 
seeing  the  breakers  too  high,  they  suffered  themselves  to  be  l)iil,e(| 
by  a  few  pieces  of  iron,  and  swam  off  to  them.  A  brisk  tialjic 
soon  began,  and  all  the  disposable  articles  of  the  natives  were  spoedih 
purchased  for  a  few  nails,  broken  pieces  of  iron,  and  beads  :  the; 
then  brought  down  cocoa-nuts,  and  exchanged  six  of  thciii  for 
a  nail  or  a  bit  of  iron,  which  is  known  here,  as  at  Clermont  Ton. 
nere,  by  the  name  of"  toki."  The  strictest  integrity  was  observed 
by  tlicse  people  in  all  their  dealings.  If  one  person  had  not  the 
number  of  cocoa-nuts  demanded  for  a  piece  of  iron,  he  borrowed 
from  liis  neighbour ;  and  when  any  of  the  fruit  fell  overboard  in 
putting  it  into  the  boat,  they  swam  after  it,  and  restored  it  to  tlie 
owner.  Such  honesty  is  rare  among  the  natives  of  Polynesia,  and 
the  Lagoon  Islanders  consequently  ingratiated  themselves  niiicli 
with  us.  We  got  from  them  nearly  two  hundred  cocoa-nuts,  and 
several  ornamental  parts  of  their  dress,  one  of  which  consisted  of 
thin  bands  of  human  hair,  very  neatly  plaited,  about  five  feet  io 
length,  with  four  or  five  dozen  strings  in  each.  To  some  of  the? 
were  attached  a  dried  doodoe-nut  (aleuritcs  triloba),  or  a  piece ti 
wood.  We  also  got  some  of  their  mats  and  sinnet  made  of  tin 
porou  bark  (Jiibiscus  tiliaceas). 

The  men  were  a  fine  athletic  race,  with  frizzled  hair,  wliicli  tlier 
wore  very  thick.  In  complexion  they  were  much  lighter  tiiaii  the 
islanders  of  Clermont  Tonnere  :  one  man,  in  particular,  and  tlieoiih 
one  who  had  whiskers,  was  so  fair,  and  so  like  an  European,  tlia; 
the  boat's  crew  claimed  him  as  a  countryman.  No  superfluous  orna- 
ments were  worn  by  either  sex,  nor  were  any  of  them  tattooed:  the 
dress  of  the  males  was  simply  a  maro  of  straw,  and  sometimes  a 
straw  sack  hung  over  their  shoulders  to  prevent  the  sun  from  scoicli- 
ing  their  backs :  two  of  them  were  distinguished  l)y  crowns  of  whhe 
feathers.  The  women  had  a  mat  wrapped  about  their  loins  as  their 
only  covering:  some  wore  the  hair  tied  in  a  hunch  upon  one  sidcol 
the  head,  others  had  a  plaited  band  tied  round  it.  They  were  infe- 
rior to  the  men  in  personal  appearance,  and  mostly  bowleggcd :  hut 
they  exercised  an  authority  not  very  common  among  uncivilized 
people,  by  taking  from  the  men  whatever  articles  they  received  in 
exchange  for  their  fruit,  as  soon  as  they  returned  to  the  shore, 
The  goodnatured  countenances  of  these  people,  the  honesty  observ- 
ed in  all  their  c'.oalings,  and  the  great  respect  they  paid  their  wo- 
men, bespeak  them  a  more  amiable  race  than  the  avaricious  Gam- 
bler Islanders. 


«•' 


1826.] 


AND    BEERING  !>    STRAIT. 


139 


We  (luitted  tliem  about  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  in  a 
few  hours  after  saw  Tin-uni  Cap  Ishuid,  bearing  N.  56°  54'  W. ; 
the  chini|)  on  Lagoon  Ishuid  at  the  same  time  bearing  S.  58°  14'  E., 
thirteen  miles  distant.  This  island,  discovered  and  so  named  by 
Captain  Cook,  is  also  of  coral,  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  length, 
well  wooded,  and  steep  all  round.  At  a  mile  distant  from  it  we 
could  get  no  bottom  with  400  fathoms.  We  could  perceive  no  la- 
jroon  ;  and  the  surf  ran  too  high  to  admit  of  landing.  Some  slabs 
placed  erect,  and  a  hut,  showed  it  had  once  been  inhabited ;  but 
the  only  living  things  we  saw  were  birds  and  turtle.  M.  Bougain- 
ville gave  this  island  the  name  of  Les  Lanciers,  in  consequence  of 
the  men  whom  he  saw  on  it,  being  armed  with  long  spears,  and  who 
probably  were  visiters  from  the  island  we  had  just  left. 

From  Thrum  Cap  we  steered  for  Egmont  Island,  the  second 
discovery  of  Captain  Wallis,  which  we  sho.'tly  saw  from  the  mast- 
head, and  by  sunset  were  close  to  it.  The  next  morning  the  shore 
was  very  carefully  examined,  and  we  found  the  reef  so  low  toward 
the  centre  that  in  high  tides  there  can  be  no  connnunication  with 
tlio  extren)ities.  The  island  is  steep,  like  all  the  other  coral  islands, 
and  well  wooded  with  cocoa-nut  and  pandanus-trees,  and  has  one 
of  the  large  clumps  at  its  N.  W.  extremity. 

Upon  the  windward  island  we  perceived  about  fifty  inhabitants 
collected  upon  the  beach ;  the  men  in  one  groupe,  armed  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  Lagoon  Islanders,  and  the  women  in  another 
j)lace  more  inland.  No  boat  could  land  on  this  or  on  any  other  part 
of  the  island :  to  leeward  the  S.  W.  swell  rolled  even  more  heavily 
upon  the  shore  than  that  occasioned  by  the  trade-wind  on  the  o])po- 
site  side  :  we  were  in  consequence  obliged  to  trade  with  the  natives 
in  the  manner  pursued  at  Lagoon  Island.  Two  of  the  islanders, 
when  they  thought  we  were  going  to  land,  advanced  with  slow 
strides,  and  went  through  a  number  of  pantomimic  gestures,  which 
we  could  not  understand,  except  that  they  were  of  a  friendly  na- 
ture. This  lasted  until  the  boats  anchored  outside  the  reef,  and  they 
were  invited  to  accept  some  pieces  of  "  toki."  Gold  and  silver  are 
not  more  valued  in  European  countries,  than  iron,  even  in  its  rudest 
form,  is  by  the  islanders  of  Polynesia.  At  the  sound  of  the  word, 
the  two  spokesmen,  and  all  the  natives  who  had  before  been  seated 
under  the  shade  of  the  trees,  ran  off  to  their  huts,  and  brought  down 
whatever  they  thought  likely  to  obtain  a  piece  of  the  precious  sub- 
stance,— mats,  bands,  nets,  oyster-shells,  hooks,  and  a  variety  of 
small  articles  similar  to  those  before  described  were  offered  for  sale. 
The  only  article  tin  y  would  not  j)art  with,  though  we  offered  a 
higher  price  than  it  seemed  to  deserve,  was  a  stick  with  a  bunch  of 
black  tern  feathers  suspended  to  it.  At  Lagoon,  and  other  islands 
which  we  visited  both  before  and  afterwards,  the  natives  carried  one 


Jik  '.    ' 


•t) 


■ 


▼■ 


110 


VOYAGK  TO  TUE  PACIFIC 


[Jan. 


.•JJnf 


** 


or  more  of  llieso  sticks:  they  arc  mentioned  as  being  seen  by  iIk.. 
earliest  voyagers,  and  are  probably  marks  of  distinction  orofaiiiitv, 

These  people  so  much  resemble  the  Lagoon  Islanders  in  person, 
manners,  language  and  dress,  as  to  need  no  description :  the  island 
is  also  of  the  same  formation,  and  has  apparently  the  same  produc- 
tions.  We  noticed  only  one  canoe  ;  but  no  doubt  they  have  others, 
as  a  constant  communication  is  kept  up  with  the  islands  to  windwurd. 
It  may  be  recollected  that  it  was  ujion  this  island  Captain  VVallis 
found  all  the  natives  collected  who  had  deserted  Queen  Charlotte's 
Island  on  his  approach.  Though  these  two  places  are  many  miles 
out  of  sight  of  each  other,  yet  their  canoes  took  the  exact  direction 
which,  being  afterwards  followed  by  Captain  Wallis,  led  to  the  dis- 
covery of  the  island. 

Next  morning  we  saw  land  to  the  S.  by  E.,  which  proved  to  be 
a  small  coral  islar.d,  answering  in  situation  nearly  to  that  of  Cans. 
fort  Island,  discovered  by  Captain  Edwards,  but  so  small  as  to  ren- 
der it  very  unlikely  that  it  should  be  the  same.  Though  we  ranged 
the  shore  very  closely,  we  did  not  perceive  any  inhabitants.  It  was 
well  wooded,  and  had  several  clusters  of  cocoa-nut  trees.  The  next 
morning  parties  were  sent  to  cut  down  some  of  the  trees  for  fire-wood. 
The  surf  ran  high  upon  the  shore ;  but,  with  the  assistance  of  a 
small  raft,  a  disembarkation  was  cftccled  without  any  serious  acci- 
dent. Several  of  the  oflicers,  anxious  to  land  upon  this  our  first 
discovery  in  these  seas,  joined  the  party  in  spite  of  a  sound  dut'kin», 
which  was  the  smallest  penalty  attached  to  the  undertaking.  In  one 
of  these  attempts  the  Naturalist  was  unfortunately  drawn  into  a  deep 
hole  in  the  coral  by  the  recoil  of  the  sea,  and,  but  for  prompt  ns?ist- 
ance,  would  in  all  probability  have  lost  his  life. 

The  island  proved  to  be  only  a  mile  and  three-quarters  in  lci)2:t!i, 
from  north  to  south,  and  a  mile  and  three-tenths  in  width.  It  con- 
sisted of  a  narrow  strip  of  land  of  an  oval  form,  not  more  than  two 
hundred  yards  wide  in  any  part,  with  a  lagoon  in  its  centre,  wliicli 
the  colour  of  the  water  indicated  to  be  of  no  great  depth.  In  place; 
this  lake  washed  the  trunks  of  the  trees ;  in  others  it  was  separated 
from  them  by  a  whitish  beach,  formed  principally  of  cardinal  and 
venus-shells.  Shoals  of  small  fish  of  the  chaetodon  genus,  liic;lily 
curious  and  beautiful  in  colour,  sported  along  the  clear  margin  oi'tlie 
lake,  and  with  them  two  or  three  species  of  fistularia ;  several  mo- 
luscous  animals  and  shell-fish  occupied  the  hollows  of  the  coral 
(principally  madrepora  cervi-cornis)  ;  and  the  chama  giganteus  was 
found  so  completely  overgrown  by  the  coral,  that  just  sufficient  space 
was  left  for  it  to  open  its  shell ;  a  fact  which  tends  to  show  tlie  ra- 
pidity with  which  coral  increases. 

Upon  the  shores  of  the  lagoon,  the  pandanus,  cocoa-nut,  toiita- 
no,  sccEVola  koenigii,  the  suriana  (whose  aroma  may  be   pcrceivpd 


m6.] 


AND  DREnmo's  STllAIT 


HI 


at  the  distance  of  several  miles),  the  large  clump-trec,  pempliis 
acidula,  toiirnefortia  sericca,  and  other  evergreens  common  totlieso 
forniiitioiis,  constituted  a  thick  wood,  and  afforded  a  cool  retreat 
(iofii  tlie  scorching  rays  of  a  vertitical  sun,  and  the  still  greater  an- 
noyance arising  from  the  reflection  of  the  bright  white  sand;  a  luxury 
which  until  our  arrival  was  enjoyed  only  by  a  few  black  and  white  tern, 
tropic  and  frigate  birds,  and  some  soldier-crabs  which  had  taken  up 
their  abode  in  the  vacated  turbo-shells. 

Under  these  trees  were  three  large  pits  containing  several  tons  of 
fresh  water,  and  not  far  from  them  some  low  huts  similar  to  those 
described  at  the  other  islands,  and  a  tomb-stone  shaped  like  that  at 
Wliitsunday  Island.  We  judged  that  the  huts  had  been  long  de- 
serted, from  the  circumstance  of  the  tern  and  other  aquatic  birds  oc- 
cupying some  calabashes  which  were  left  in  them.  Among  several 
tilings  I'ound  in  this  deserted  village  were  part  of  a  scraper  used  by 
merchants-ships,  and  a  large  fish-hook,  which  we  preserved,  with- 
out suspecting  that  they  would  at  a  future  day  clear  up  the  doubt 
that  these  articles  were  calculated  to  throw  upon  the  merit  of  dis- 
covering this  island,  to  which  we  otherwise  felt  an  indisputable 
claim.  Our  suspicions  on  this  head  were  also  strengthed  by  notic- 
ing that  a  cocoa-nut  tree  had  been  cut  down  with  an  instrument 
sharper  than  the  stone  axes  of  the  Indians.  We  had,  however  no 
direct  proof  that  the  island  had  been  before  visited  by  any  ship  ; 
and  we  consoled  ourselves  with  the  possibility  of  the  instruments 
having  been  brought  from  a  distance  by  the  natives,  who  might  be 
absent  on  a  temporary  visit,  and  several  of  whose  canoes  we  found 
in  the  lagoon  :  the  largest  of  these  was  eighteen  feet  in  length  by 
fifteen  inches  in  breadth,  hollowed  out  of  the  large  tree  (which  we 
at  first  mistook  for  a  banyan-tree,)  and  furnished  with  outriggers 
similar  to  the  canoes  of  Clermont  Tonnere. 

This  island,  the  north  end  of  which  is  situated  in  latitude  20°  45' 
07'  S.,  and  longitude  4°  07'  48"  West,  of  Gambler  Island,  I  named 
IJarrow  Island,  in  compliment  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Admiralty, 
v.'hose  literary  talents  and  zeal  for  the  promotion  of  geographical  sci- 
ence have  been  long  known  to  the  world. 

The  party  on  shore  succeeded  in  the  course  of  a  few  hours  in 
collecting  a  tolerable  supply  of  hard  wood,  very  well  adapted  for 
fuel,  and  some  brooms,  after  which  we  beat  to  the  windward  in 
search  of  Carysfort  Island  ;  and  at  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  had 
the  satisfaction  to  see  land  in  that  direction  ;  but  in  consequence  of 
a  strong  current  setting  to  the  southward,  we  did  not  get  near  it  un- 
til tlie  afternoon  of  the  following  day.  It  answered  in  every  respect 
to  Captain  Edwards's  description  of  Carysfort  Island.  The  strip 
ofland  is  so  low,  that  the  sea,  in  several  places,  washes  into  the  lagoon. 
Like  all  the  other  islands  of  this  formation  we   had   visited,  the 


•Ml        ffl'  ) 


;t  '.' 


')  ,ir 


if' 


H2 


VOYAOK  TO  TUK  PACIFIC 


['fm. 


\\ 


h  '^iii^j. 


vvoatJirr  side  and  the  points  of  the  island  were  most  vvoodfd,  Ij^ 
the  v(!};(!tation  was  on  the  vvlioie  scanty.  TIrmo  is  no  (lanf;;ti'  iimr 
tliis  island.  Tiiu  outer  part  ol' tlie  bank  descends  abruptly  as  Ibl. 
lows :  at  sixty  yards  Ironi  the  breakers,  5  lathonis  water 

Eij^hty  yards         .  .  .  .  I'S     ditto 

One  hundred  and  twenty  do  .  .  18     ditto 

Two  hundred  yards        ...  24     ditto 

On  the  edge  of  the  bank  immediately  alter,  no  bottom  with  ;j,j 
fathoms. 

Durinir  the  night  we  stood  quietly  to  the  southward  in  search  of 
Matilda  Kecks  and  Osnaburgh  Island.  At  daylight  we  saw  fWks 
of  tern,  and  at  eleven  o'clock  land  was  reported  bearing  W.  by  S, 
Tlic  barge  and  the  ship  circumnavigated  this  island  before  (hiik, 
and  then  kept  under  easy  sail  during  the  night.  1  learnt  Irum  Mr. 
Belcher,  who  jjassed  round  the  eastern  side  of  the  island,  liiut  lie 
had  found  an  opening  into  the  lagoon  in  that  direction,  ;  jkI  luuldis. 
covered  near  it  two  anchors  lying  high  up  on  the  reef. 

At  daylight  next  morning  land  was  seen  to  the  southward,  which 
on  examination  proved  to  be  another  small  coral  island,  three  iiiikj 
and  three  quarters  in  length,  by  three  in  width  :  its  form  is  nearly 
an  oblong  with  the  southern  side  much  curved.  The  lagoon  in  tlie 
centre  was  deep,  its  boundary  very  low  and  narrow,  and  in  plates 
it  overflowed.  Several  ripplings  were  observed  about  these  isluiub, 
but  v/e  passed  through   them  without  obtaining  soundings. 

A:i  soon  as  the  plan  of  this  island  was  completed  we  i  lurncdto 
that  upon  which  the  anchors  were  observed,  and  spi  't  «i  ■•  whole 
day  in  its  examination.  The  lagoon  was  entered  in  the  boats  hya 
channel  sufficiently  wide  and  deep  for  a  vessel  of  the  class  of  the 
Blossom,  and  proved  in  every  respect  an  t  'cellent  harbour  :  in  en- 
tering, however,  it  is  necessary  to  look  out  carefully  for  rocks,  which 
rise  suddenly  to  the  surface,  or  within  a  very  short  distance  of  it. 

On  landing  at  the  back  of  the  reef,  we  perceived  unequivocal 
signs  of  a  shipwreck — part  of  a  vessel's  keel  and  fore-foot,  broken 
casks,  a  number  of  staves,  hoops,  a  ship's  hatch  marked  VIII,, 
some  copper,  lead,  &.c.,  and  the  beach  strewed  with  broken  iron 
hoops,  and  in  their  vicinity  the  anchors  which  were  discovered  the 
preceding  day :  there  were  also  broken  harpoons,  lances,  a  sniiill 
cannon,  cast  metal  boilers,  &tc.  &.C.,  and  a  leaden  pump  whicli  had 
a  crown  and  the  date  1790  raised  upon  it.  All  the  iron-work  was 
much  corroded,  and  must  have  been  4  considerable  time  ex|)ose(lto 
the  action  of  the  sea  and  air,  but  it  was  not  overgrown  in  the  least 
by  the  coral.  Two  of  these  anchors  weighed  about  a  ton  each; 
the  other  was  a  stream  anchor,  and  with  one  of  the  bowers,  was  at 
the  break  of  the  sea  ;  the  other  bower,  together  with  the  boiler,  ami 
all  the  before-mentioned  materials,  were  lying  about  two  hundred 


mo.] 


ANn  DGERINri  U  STRAIT, 


H3 


yards  from  it.  Tlic  situation  in  wliicli  tlioy  wore  found,  the  size  of 
till-  iiiicliors,  the  harpoons,  staves,  &iv.  anil  tiie  date  of  the  pinnp, 
riMiiliM-  it  higlily  l)r()l)ahle  that  tliey  heh)ni;ed  to  the  MatiMa,  a  wha- 
ler wliicli  was  wrecked  in  171)-^,  in  the  nii;ht-tinie,  u|)on  a  reef  of 
coral  rorks  in  latitude  '29°  S.,  and  longitude  1;J8°  34'  W.  But 
wlictlicr  they  had  heen  washed  up  there  hy  sonic  extraordinarily 
liii^ii  title  and  sea,  or  the  reef  had  since  grown  upward,  and  raised 
tlii'in  heyond  the  present  reach  of  the  waves,  we  could  not  decide  ; 
the  former  is  most  prohable  ;  though  it  is  evident,  if  the  ahove-nien- 
tioiied  remains  he  those  of  the  Matilda,  of  which  there  can  be  very 
little  (ionht,  that  a  considerable  alteration  has  taken  place  in  the  is- 
land, as  the  crew  of  that  vessel  describe  themselves  to  have  been 
lost  on  rt  reef  of  rocks,  whereas  the  island  on  which  these  anchoi's 
are  lying  extends  fourteen  miles  in  length,  and  has  one  of  its  sides 
fovered  nearly  the  whole  of  the  way  with  high  trees,  which,  from 
tlie  spot  where  the  v(!ssel  was  wrecked,  are  very  conspicuous,  and 
coidd  not  fail  to  be  seen  by  persons  in  the  situation  of  her  crew. 

The  island  differs  from  the  other  coral  formations  before  describ- 
ed, in  having  a  greater  disproportion  in  growth  of  its  sides.  The 
one  to  the  windward  is  covered  w  ith  tall  trees  as  before  mentioned, 
uliile  that  to  thi'  leeward  is  nearly  all  under  water.  The  dry  part 
of  the  chain  enclosing  the  lagoon  is  about  a  sixth  of  a  mile  in  width, 
but  varies  considerably  in  its  dimensious:  the  broad  parts  are  fur- 
nished with  low  mounds  of  sand,  which  have  been  raised  by  the 
action  of  the  waves,  but  are  now  out  of  their  reach,  and  mostly  cov- 
ered with  vegetation.  The  violence  of  the  waves  upon  the  shore, 
except  at  low  water,  forces  the  sea  into  the  lake  at  many  points, 
and  occasions  a  constant  outset  through  the  channel  to  leeward. 

On  both  sides  of  the  chain  the  coral  descends  rapidly :  on  the 
outer  part  there  is  from  six  to  ten  fathoms  close  to  the  breakers, 
the  next  cast  is  thirty  to  forty,  and  at  a  little  distance  there  is  no 
bottom  with  two  hundred  and  fifty  faihanis.  On  the  lagoon  side 
there  are  two  ledges :  the  first  is  covered  about  three  feet  at  high 
water :  at  its  edge  the  lead  descends  to  three  fothoms  to  the  next 
ledge,  which  is  about  forty  yards,  in  width  ;  it  then  slopes  to  about 
Ave  fathoms  at  its  extremity,  and  again  descends  perpendicularly 
to  ten :  after  which  there  is  a  gradual  descent  to  twenty  fathoms, 
which  is  the  general  depth  of  the  centre  of  the  lagoon.  The  lake 
isdotted  with  knolls  or  columns  of  coral,  which  rise  to  all  intermedi- 
ate heights  between  the  bottom  and  the  surface,  and  are  dangerous 
even  to  boats  sailing  in  the  lagoon  with  a  fresh  breeze,  particularly 
in  cloudy  weather,  as  at  that  time  it  is  difficult  to  distinguish  even 
lliose  which  are  close  to  the  surAice. 

No  cocoa-nut  or  other  fruit-trees  have  yet  been  planted  on  the 
isolated  shore,  nor  are  there  any  vestiges  of  it.-  ^ver  having  been  ii>- 


1 


Hr. 


)>  -\ 


*- 


■*./ 


WW. 


■I   UPf'-i 


144 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


'm 


[U. 


m 


U^i 


tf 


^. 


4'H, 


4 


;A-  \m 


A  h  " 


habited,  excepting  by  tlie  leatliercd  tribe,  a  few  lizards,  soldioi'. 
crabs,  and  occasionally  by  turtle.  The  birds,  unaccustomed  iq 
n)olestation,  were  so  ignorant  of  their  danger  that  we  lifted  tliem  oil 
their  nosts ;  and  the  fish  sufiered  as  much  by  our  sticks  and  bc^t. 
hooks,  as  by  our  fishing-lines.  The  sharks,  as  in  almost  all  uiij,,. 
habited  islands  withiti  tho  tropics,  were  so  numerous  and  (luiiii;;, 
that  they  took  the  fish  off  our  lines  as  we  were  hauling  them  iii,;ii,,i 
the  next  minute  were  th  inselves  taken  by  a  bait  thrown  over  tof 
them;  a  happy  thought  of  our  lishermen,  who  by  that  moans  iiui 
only  recovered  many  of  their  hooks,  but  gor  back  the  stolen  fish  ii, 
a  tolerably  perfect  state. 

In  several  small  lakes,  occasioned  by  the  sea  at  times  ovcrOow. 
the  land,  we  saw  an  abundance  of  fish  of  the  clijrtodon  and  spaiu; 
genera,  of  the  same  beautiful  colours  as  those  at  Barrow  Island,  am: 
ill  one  of  them  caught  a  species  of  gymnothorax  about  two  feci  ii 
length.  There  were  but  lew  echini  upon  .  ic  reef,  but  an  abimd. 
ance  of  shell-fish,  consisting  of  the  area,  ostrea,  cardium,  turbo,  he- 
lix, conus,  cyprea,  voluta,  harpa,  haliotis,  patella,  &:c.  ;  also  seve- 
ral ai^hroditaj  holuthuria3  \uiche  In  mcr)  and  asterite,  &ic. 

The  position  of  this  island  differed  so  considerably  from  that  ol 
Osnaburgh  Island,  discovered  by  Captain  Carteret,  that  I  boat  tw,; 
days  to  the  eastward  in  the  parallel  of  !2'2°  S.  in  the  expectation  u: 
finding  another ;  but  when  the  view  from  the  mast-head  extonik: 
half  a  degree  beyond  the  longitude  he  had  assigned  to  his  discovp- 
ry,  and  we  had  not  even  any  indication  of  land,  I  ga\e  up  foaii 
search.  The  probability,  tliorefore,  is,  that  the  island  upon  wine: 
we  found  the  wreck  is  the  Osnaburgh  of  Captain  Carteret ;  and  a 
it  is  equally  probable,  from  what  has  been  said,  that  the  reinains.ii: 
those  of  the  Matilda,  it  will  he  proper  henceforward  to  allix  to  r, 
the  name  of  both  Osnaburgh  and  Matilda. 

A  doubt  might  have  arisen  with  respect  to  ihe  i?land  discovriori 
to  the  southward  being  Osnaburgh  island,  had  Captain  CarlOiei 
not  "xpressly  said  in  his  journal,  that  the  island  he  saw  was  to  the  soull 
of  bin; ;  but  this  bearing  put  such  a  supposition  out  of  the  qiiestioc, 
as  in  that  case  he  must  have  .UM?n  the  island  lo  the  north  van!  ak 
I  have,  in  coiiseque'.cc,  considered  it  a  new  discovery,  and  iioiioni- 
ed  it  with  the  name  ofCorkLurn  Island,  in  compliment  to  llio  Kid:; 
Honourable  Sir  George  Cockiuurn,  G.  C.  ]3.,  one  of  the  liords  oi 
the  Admiralty. 

After  we  gfjve  up  the  search  to  the  eastward  for  tlie  island  oil 
Captain  Carteni,  we  pursued  the  same  parallel  of  2'2°  S.  soinedi- 
tance  to  the  westward  without  being  more  successlul,  and  then 
steered  for  the  Lagoon  Island  of  C'aptain  HIigli,  which  was  soon  tlu 
following  day.  On  our  approach  scn-eral  large  fires  were  kindliti 
in  different  parts.     The  natives  were  darker  than  those  of  L.iitwi 


ttf 


1926.] 


AND  BEEHINO  S   STRAIT. 


Mr, 


Island  of  Cook,  were  nearly  naked,  and  had  tlieir  hair  tied  in  a 
knot  on  tiic  top  of  the  )iead  ;  they  were  all  provided  \vith  stones, 
rliihs  fi'id  ^P*'!"'^-  ^^  ''"-'  •'^t-'ii  '"111  very  high,  we  did  not  land,  and 
consL'(jiH'ntly  had  no  further  cuniinunication  with  them.  The  isl- 
and is  ]ari:;or  than  isexhihited  upon  Arrovvsniith's  Charts,  but  agrees 
in  situation  very  closely  with  the  position  assigned  to  it  by  Captain 
Bliiih. 

Two  days  afterwards  we  discovered  a  small  island  in  lat.  lO"  40' 
S.  and  long.  140° 29'  W.,  which,  as  it  was  not  before  known,  I 
named  Byam  Martin  Island,  in  compliment  to  Sir  Thomas  Byam 
Martin,  K.  C.  B.,  iie  Comptrollfr  of  the  Navy. 

As  we  ncared  the  shore  the  natives  made  several  fires.     Shortly 
afterwards  three  of  thorn  launched  a  canoe,  and  paddled   fearlessly 
to  the  barge,  which  brought  them  to  the  ship.      Instead  of  the  deej)- 
colonrcd  uncivilized  Indians  inhabiting  the  coral  islands  in  general, 
a  tall  well-made  person,  comparatively  fair,  and  handsomely  tat- 
tooed, ascended  the  side,   and,  to  our  surprise,  familiarly  accosted 
ii«  in  the  Olahetian  manner.     The  second  had  a  hog  and  a  cock 
tattooed  u[)on  bis  breast — animals  almost  unknown  among  the  isl- 
ands of  fvastern  Polynesia ;  and  the  third   wore   a  turban  of  blue 
nankeen.     Either  of  these  were   distinctions    sufficient   to  excite 
considerable  interest,  as  they  convinced  us  they  were  not  natives  of 
the  island  before  us,  but  had  either  been  left  there   or  drifted  away 
from  some  other  island  :  the  latter  supposition  was  the  most  jn-oba- 
blc,  as  they  described  themselves  to  have  undergone  great  privation 
and  sullering,  by  which  many  of  their  companions  had  lost  their 
lives,  and  their  canoe  to  have  been  wrecked  upon  the  island  ;    and 
that  they  and  their  fjiends  on  shore  were  anxious  to  embark  in  the 
shi|),  and  return  to  Otaheite.     A  little  suspicion  was  at  first  attach- 
ed to  this  account,  as  it  seemed  impossible  for  a  canoe  to  reach 
their  present  asylum  without  purposely  paddling  towards   it ;    as 
Byam  Martin  Island,  unlike  Wateo,  upon  which  Omai  found   his 
countrymen,  is  situated  six  hundred  miles  from  Otaheite,  in  the  di- 
rection of  the  tradcvwind.     We  could  not  doubt,  however,  that  they 
were  natives  of  that  place,  as  they   mentioned  the  names  of  the 
missionaries  residing  there,  and  proved  that  they  could   both  read 
and  vTite. 

To  their  solicitation  to  return  in  the  ship  to  Otaheite,  as  their 
nundtcrs  on  sliore  amounted  tc  forty  persons.  I  could  not  yield, 
and  I  pointed  out  to  them  the  impossibility  of  doing  so ;  but 
that  we  might  learn  the  real  history  of  their  adventures,  I 
offered  a  passage  to  the  man  who  first  ascended  the  side,  as 
he  appeared  the  most  intelligent  of  the  party.  The  poor  fel- 
low was  at  first  fjuito  delighted,  but  .suddenly  became  grave, 
and  inquired  if  his  wife  and  children  might  accompany  him,  as  he 

19 


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could  on  no  account  consent  to  a  separation.  Our  compliance  with 
this  request  appeared  to  render  him  completely  happy ;  but  still 
fearful  of  disappointment,  before  quitting  the  ship  he  sent  to  ask  if 
I  was  in  earnest. 

The  next  morning,  on  landing,  we  found  him,  his  wife,  and  fam- 
ily,  with  their  goods  and  chattels,  upon  the  beach,  ready  to  embark, 
and  all  the  islanders  assembled  to  take  leave  of  them ;  but  as  we 
wished  to  examine  the  island  first,  we  postponed  this  ceremony  un- 
til  the  evening.  The  little  colony  gave  us  a  very  friendly  recep- 
tion,  and  conducted  us  to  their  village,  which  consisted  of  a  few 
low  huts,  similar  to  those  at  Barrow  Island  ;  but  they  had  no  fruit 
to  offer  us,  excepting  pant.anus-nuts,  which  they  disliked  almost  as 
much  as  ourselves,  and  told  us  they  had  been  accustomed  to  better 
fare. 

In  their  huts  we  found  calabashes  of  water  suspended  to  the  rool", 
mats,  baskets,  and  every  thing  calculated  for  a  sea-voyage  ;  and  not 
far  from  them  a  plentiful  store  offish,  raised  about  four  feet  above 
the  ground,  out  of  the  reach  of  the  rats,  which  were  very  numerous. 
They  had  clothing  sufficient  for  the  climate,  and  were  in  every  re- 
spect stout  and  healthy  ;  there  ^vas  therefore  no  immediate  neces- 
sity for  removing  them,  though  I  offered  to  take  them  as  ftir  as  the 
next  island,  which  was  larger  and  inhabited,  and  where — conclud- 
ing, from  what  we  saw,  that  these  people  were  auxiliary  missiona- 
ries— they  would  have  an  opportunity  of  prosecuting  their  pious  in- 
tentions in  the  conversion  of  the  natives.  This  proposal,  howev- 
er, after  a  little  consultation,  was  declined,  from  an  apprehension 
of  being  killed  and  eaten,as  they  supposed  the  greater  part  of  the 
inhabitants  of  the  eastern  islands  of  Polynesia  to  be  cannibals. 

We  very  soon  discovered  that  our  little  colony  were  Christians; 
they  took  an  early  opportunity  of  convincing  us  that  tliey  had  both 
Testaments,  hymn-books,  &lc.  printed  in  the  Otaheitan  language: 
they  also  showed  us  a  black-lead  pencil,  and  other  materials  for 
writing.  Some  of  the  girls  repeated  hymns,  and  the  greater  part 
evinced  a  reverence  and  respect  for  the  sacred  books,  which  reflects 
much  credit  upon  the  missionaries,  under  whose  care  we  could  no 
longer  doubt  they  had  at  one  time  been. 

Tuwarri,  to  whom  I  offered  a  passage,  we  found  was  not  the 
principal  person  on  the  island,  but  that  their  chief  was  a  man 
who  accompanied  him  in  the  boat,  with  his  legs  dreadfully  enlarged 
with  the  elephantiasis:  it  was  he  who  directed  their  course,  rebuilt 
their  canoe  after  it  had  been  stranded,  and  who  appeared  also  to  lie 
their  protector,  being  the  only  one  who  possessed  fire-arms.  His 
importance  in  this  respect  was,  however,  a  little  diminished  by  the 
want  of  powder  and  shot,  and  by  an  accident  which  had  deprived 
him  of  the  hammer  of  bis  gun — a  misfortune  he  particularly  regret- 


.0 


'^ 


182(5.J 


AND  BEERINU  a  STHAIT. 


147 


ted  as  it  had  been  given  him  by  King  Pomarree,  His  anxiety  on 
this  head  was  relieved  by  finding  our  armourer  could  supply  the 
defect,  and  that  we  v^ould  furnish  him  with  the  necessary  materials 
for  the  defence  of  his  party. 

The  canoe  in  which  this  extraordinary  voyage  had  been  made 
was  found  hauled  up  at  a  difterent  part  of  the  island  from  that  on 
which  we  landed,  and  placed  under  a  shed  very  neatly  built,  with 
the  repairs  executed  in  a  workmanlike  manner,  and  in  every  respect 
ready  for  sea.  She  was  a  double  canoe,  upwards  of  thirty  feet  long 
by  nine  broad,  and  three  feet  nine  inches  deep  ;  each  vessel  having 
three  feet  three  inches  beam  :  one  was  partly  decked,  and  the  oth- 
er provided  with  a  thatched  shed :  they  were  sharp  at  both  ends, 
each  of  which  was  fitted  for  a  rudder,  and  the  timbers  were  sewed 
together  with  strong  plaited  cord,  after  the  manner  of  the  canoes  of 
Chain  Island,  where  they  are  brought  to  great  perfection. 

Wc  remained  the  whole  day  upon  the  island,  contributing  to  the 
comfort  of  the  inhabitants  by  the  distribution  of  useful  presents  ; 
and  at  the  same  time  making  our  own  observations,  and  endeavouring 
to  learn  something  of  their  history,  and  at  sunset  we  assembled  upon 
the  beach  to  embark.  Poor  Tuwarri  was  quite  overwhehnned  at 
separating  from  his  companions  and  fellow-sufTerers.  The  whole 
village  accompanied  him  to  the  boat,  to  the  last  testifying  their  re- 
gard by  some  little  act  of  civility.  When  the  moment  of  departure 
arrived,  the  men  gathered  about  him,  shed  abundance  of  tears,  and 
took  their  leave  in  a  solemn  manner  with  a  very  few  words.  The 
women,  on  the  other  hand,  clung  about  his  wife  and  children,  and 
indulged  a  weakness  that  better  become  their  sex. 

The  island  u|)on  which  we  found  them  is  nearly  an  oval  of  three 
miles  and  three-quarters  diameter.  It  is  of  coral  formation,  and  has 
a  lagoon  and  productions  very  similar  to  the  other  islands  recently 
described.  One  species  of  coral  not  noticed  before  was  seen  in  the 
lagoon,  growing  above  water:  it  was  a  millepore  extending  itsel  "in 
vertical  plates  parallel  to  the  shore.  Among  the  vegetable  produc- 
tions, the  polypodium  vulgnre,  seen  at  Whitsunday  Island,  was 
found  here ;  and  also  a  small  shrub,  which  we  afterwards  ascertain- 
to  be  an  achyranthus.  From  the  pcnq)his  wc  i)rocured  a  large  sup- 
ply of  firewood,  to  which  use  it  is  well  adapted,  as  it  burns  a  long 
time,  gives  great  heat,  and  occupies  comparatively  little  room.  The 
wood  of  this  tree  is  hard  as  ligiumi  vita^,  and  equally  good  for  tools; 
its  specific  gravity  much  greater  than  sea  water  :  its  colour  is  deep 
rod,  but  the  inner  bark  more  strongly  tinged;  and  if  properly  pre- 
pared, would  jierhaps  afford  a  good  dye. 

From  Byam  IMartin  Island  we  steered  for  Gloucester  Island  of 
Captain  Wallis,  and  early  the  next  morning  were  close  to  it.  The 
appearance  of  the  island  has  been  accurately  described  by  its  dis- 


\ 


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VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


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coverer,  but  its  present  form  and  extent  differ  materially.  At  the 
S.  E.  angle  of  the  island  wo  noticed  a  moral  built  of  stones,  but 
there  were  no  inhabitants  upon  the  shore.  In  passing  to  windward 
of  the  island,  the  currant  unexpectedly  set  so  strong  upon  it,  that 
the  ship  was  for  a  considerable  time  in  imminent  danger  of  beintr 
thrown  upon  the  rocks,  and  her  escape  is  entirely  attributable  to  tlie 
rapid  descent  of  the  coral  reef,  which  at  times  was  almost  under 
her  bottom.  She,  however,  fortunately  cleared  the  reef,  and  was 
inniicdiately  in  safety.  After  collecting  the  necessary  inforniation 
we  steered  for  Bow  Island,  which  was  seen  from  the  mast-head  at 
three  o'clock  the  same  afternoon. 


Al 


1826.  J 


AND  BEEHING  S  STRAIT. 


\i\) 


CHAPTER  VIJI. 


Boat  sent  to  examine  the  Channel  into  Bow  Island  Lagoon — Unexpected  Interview- 
between  Tuwarri  and  liis  Brother — A  Pearl  Brig-  at  anclior  in  tlie  Lag-oon — Blys- 
tcry  attached  to  tho  Byani  Martin  Islanders  dispelled — Their  interestiiiar  History, 
extensive  Wanderings  and  Sulferings — Sequel  of  Tuwarri's  History — Ship  enters 
tlie  Lagoon — Description  uf  tlie  Ishmd — A  sliort  Account  of  the  Natives — Visit 
several  other  coral  Islands,  and  discover  Melville  and  Croker  Islands — Remarks 
on  the  Discoveries  of  Cook,  Wallis,  Carteret,  &c. — Peculiarities  of  the  coral  Islands 
—Arrival  at  Otaheite. 

Bow  Island  was  discovered  by  M.  Bougainville  in  17G8,  and  the 
following  year  was  visited  by  Captain  Cook,  who  gave  it  its  pres- 
ent name  from  the  resemblance  its  shape  bore  to  a  bow.  Its  figure 
protracted  upon  paper,  however,  is  very  irregular,  and  bears  but 
small  resemblance  to  the  instrument  after  which  it  was  named ;  but 
to  a  person  viewing  it  as  Captain  Cook  did,  the  mistake  is  very 
likely  to  occur.  It  is  of  coral  formation,  thirty-four  miles  long,  and 
ten  broad  ;  well  wooded  on  the  weather  side,  but  very  scantily  so  on 
the  other ;  and  so  low  in  this  half,  that  the  sea  in  places  washes  in- 
to the  lagoon.  ^V^e  sailed  close  along  what  may  be  considered  the 
string  of  the  bov/,  which  the  barge  navigated  the  arch ;  and  thuSj 
between  us,  in  a  few  hours  made  the  circuit  of  the  island. 

Previous  to  quitting  England,  Captain  Charlton,  the  consul  at 
the  Sandwich  islands,  among  other  useful  matter  which  he  obliging- 
ly communicated,  informed  me  of  an  opening  through  the  coral  reef 
of  this  island  into  the  lagoon ;  and  as  1  was  desirous,  at  this  period 
of  the  survey,  o  "having  a  point  astronomically  fixed  to  correct  the 
chronometrical  measurements,  I  determined,  if  possible,  to  enter  the 
lagoon  with  the  ship.  When  we  reached  the  supposed  opening,  a 
boat  was  lowered  to  examine  it ;  and  Tuwarri  was  sent  in  her  to 
conciliate  the  natives,  should  any  be  seen  in  the  course  of  the  ser- 
vice. As  she  drew  near  the  shore,  several  men  were  observed 
among  the  trees ;  and  the  oflicer  in  charge  of  the  boat,  acting  under 
my  general  orders  of  being  always  prepared  for  an  attack,  desired 
the  muskets  to  be  loaded.  Tuwarri,  who  had  probably  never  pos- 
sessed much  courage,  at  the  sight  of  these  preparations,  wished  him- 


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150 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


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te 


self  anywhere  else  than  in  his  present  situation,  and,  to  judge  froin 
his  countenance,  calculated  at  least  upon  being  killed  and  eaten  by 
cannibals :  he  was  in  the  greatest  agitation  as  the  boat  adviinced, 
until  she  came  within  speaking  distance  of  the  strangers,  when,  in 
stead  of  the  supposed  nioiisters  ready  to  devour  him,  he  recognised, 
to  his  surprise,  his  own  brother  and  several  friends  whom  he  haj 
1  'li  at  Chain  Island  three  years  before,  all  of  whom  had  long  gjvci) 
l)im  up  as  lost,  and  whom  he  never  expected  to  see  again. 

The  two  brothers  met  in  a  manner  which  did  credit  to  their  fer.]. 
ings,  and  after  the  first  salutation  sat  down  together  upon  the  ht-acli 
with  their  hands  firmly  locked,  and  entered  into  serious  conversation, 
consisting  no  doubt  of  mutual  inquiries  after  friends  and  relations, 
and  Tuwarri's  account  of  his  perilous  adventure.  They  continued 
with  their  hands  grasped  until  it  was  time  for  the  boat  to  return  to 
the  ship,  when  they  both  came  on  board.  This  affecting  interview 
increased  our  impatience  to  have  the  mystery  which  overhung  the 
fate  of  our  passenger  cleared  up,  and  an  opportunity  fortunately 
happened  for  doing  so. 

The  gig,  on  entering  the  lagoon,  had  been  met  by  a  boat  from  an 
English  brig  (the  Dart,  employed  by  the  Australian  Pearl  Compa- 
ny) at  anchor  there,  with  a  number  of  divers,  natives  of  Chain  is- 
land, hired  into  her  service :  among  these  men  there  was  one  who 
acted  as  interpreter,  and  who  was  immediately  engaged  to  commu- 
nicate to  us  the  particulars  of  Tuwarri's  adventures,  which  posses? 
so  much  interest,  that  the  reader  will  not,  I  am  sure,  regret  the  re- 
lation of  them. 

Tuwarri  was  a  native  of  one  of  the  low  coral  formations  discov- 
ered by  Captain  Cook  in  his  first  voyage,  called  Anaa  by  tlie  na- 
tives, but  by  him  named  Chain  Island,  situated  about  three  luindiec 
miles  to  the  eastward  of  Otaheite,  to  which  it  is  tributary.  Aboui 
the  period  of  the  commencement  of  his  misfortunes,  old  Pomarree 
the  king  of  Otaheite  died,  and  was  succeeded  by  his  son,  then  £ 
child.  On  the  accession  of  this  boy,  several  chiefs  and  coinincners 
of  Chain  Island,  among  whom  was  Tuwarri,  planned  a  voyage  l« 
Otaheite,  to  pay  a  visit  of  ceremony  and  of  homage  to  their  new 
sovereign.  The  only  conveyance  these  people  could  command  «i- 
double  canoes,  three  of  which,  of  the  largest  class,  were  prepared  lor 
the  occasion.  To  ;."s,  accustomed  to  navigate  the  seas  in  sliips  of 
many  tons  burthen,  provided  with  a  compass  and  the  necessary  in- 
struments to  determine  our  position,  a  canoe  with  only  the  stars  lor 
her  guidance,  and  destined  to  a  place  whose  situation  could  be  at 
the  best  but  approximately  known,  appears  so  frail  and  uncertain  a 
conveyance,  that  we  may  wonder  how  any  persons  could  he  found 
sufficiently  resolute  to  hazard  the  undertaking.  They  knew,  how- 
ever, that  similar  voyages  had  been  successfully  performed,  not  oiiK 


1826.] 


ANn    BKERINO  S    STIIAIT. 


151 


to  mountainous  islands  to  leeward,  but  to  some  that  were  scarcely  six 
feet  above  the  water,  and  were  situated  in  the  opposite  direction ; 
and  as  no  ill  omens  attended  the  present  undertaking,  no  unusual 
fears  were  entertained.  The  canoes  being  accordingly  prepared, 
and  duly  furnished  with  all  that  was  considered  necessary,  the  per- 
sons intending  to  proceed  on  this  expedition  were  embarked,  amoun- 
tini;  in  all  to  a  hundred  and  fifty  souls.  What  was  the  arrangement 
of  the  other  two  canoes  is  unknown  to  us,  but  in  Tuwarri's  there 
were  twenty-three  men,  fifteen  women,  and  ten  children  and  a  sup- 
ply of  water  and  provision  calculated  to  last  three  weeks. 

On  the  day  of  departure  all  the  natives  assembled  upon  the  beach 
to  take  leave  oi  our  adventurers ;  the  canoes  were  placed  with  scru- 
pulous exactness  in  the  supposed  direction  which  was  indicated  by 
certain  marks  upon  the  land,  and  then  launched  into  the  sea,  amidst 
the  good  wishes  and  adieus  of  their  countrymen.  With  a  fair  wind 
and  full  sail  they  glided  rapidly  over  the  space  without  a  thought 
of  the  possibility  of  the  miseries  to  which  they  were  afterwards  ex- 
posed. 

It  happened,  unfortunately,  that  the  monsoon  that  year*  began 
earlier  than  was  expected,  and  blew  with  great  violence;  two  days 
were,  notwithstanding,  passed  under  favourable  circumstances,  and 
the  adventurers  began  to  look  for  the  high  land  of  Maitea,  an  island 
hetween  Chain  Island  and  Otaheite,  and  to  anticipate  the  pleasures 
which  the  successful  termination  of  their  voyage  would  afford  them, 
when  their  progress  was  delayed  by  a  calm,  the  precursor  of  a  storm, 
which  rose  suddenly  from  an  unfavourable  quarter,  dispersed  the 
canoes,  and  drove  them  away  before  it.     In  this  manner  they  drifted 
for  several  days ;  but  on  the  return  of  fine  weather,  having  a  fort- 
night's provision  remaining,  they  again  resolutely  sought  their  des- 
tination, until  a  second  gale  drove  them  still  farther  back  tlim  the 
first,  and  lasted  so  long  that  they  became  exhausted.      Thus  many 
I  days  were  passed ;  their  distance  from  home  hourly  increasing ;  the 
sea  continually  washing  over  the  canoe,  to  the  great  discomfiture  of 
the  women  and  children ;  and  their  store  of  provision  dwindled  to 
the  last  extremity.     A  long  calm,  and,  what  was  to  them  even  worse, 
hot  dry  weather,  succeeded  the  tempest,  and  reduced  them  to  a 
state  of  the  utmost  distress.      They  described  to  us  their  canoe 
alone  and  becalmed  on  the  ocean  ;  the  crew,  perishing  with  thirst, 
beneath  the  fierce  glare  of  a  tropical  sun,  hanging  exhausted  over 
their  paddles ;   children  looking  to  their  parents  for  support,  and 
mothers  deploring  their  inability  to  afford  them  assistance.     Every 

*  In  the  South  Pacific  the  monsoons  are  occasionally  felt  throughout  all  the 
islands  of  Eastern  Polynesia. 


1 

wm 

m 

um 

fm 

.'1^ 

If  M 

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152 


VOVACE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


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l.ih^ 


«» 


means  of  quencliing  tlioir  thirst  were  resorted  to ;  some  drank  tlu; 
sea-water,  and  others  bathed  in  it,  or  poined  it  over  their  iioad*; 
but  the  absence  of  (Vesli  water  in  the  torrid  zone  cannot  be  coiniien. 
sated  by  sucli  substitutes.  Day  after  day  those  who  were  able  ex- 
tended their  gourds  to  heaven  in  supphcation  for  rain,  and  repeated 
their  prayers,  but  in  vain ;  tiie  fleecy  cloud  floating  high  in  the  air 
indicated  only  an  extension  of  their  suffering :  distress  in  its  most 
aggravated  form  had  at  length  reached  its  height,  and  seventeen  per. 
sons  fell  victims  to  its  horrors. 

The  situation  of  those  who  remained  may  readily  be  imagined, 
though  their  fate  would  never  have  been  known  to  us,  had  not 
Providence  at  this  critical  moment  wrought  a  change  in  their  lii. 
vour.  The  sky,  whicli  for  some  time  had  been  perfectly  serene, 
assumed  an  aspect  which  at  any  other  period  would  have  filled  our 
sufferers  with  aprehension  ;  but,  on  the  present  occasion,  the  trop. 
ical  storm,  as  it  approached,  was  hailed  with  thankfulness,  and  wtl- 
coined  as  their  deliverer.  All  who  were  able  came  u])on  the  deck 
with  blankets,  gourds,  and  cocoa-nut  shells,  and  held  them  toward 
the  black  cloud,  as  it  approached,  pouring  down  torrents  of  rain,  of 
which  every  drop  was  of  incalculable  value  to  the  sufferers  ;  tliov 
drank  copiously  and  thankfully,  and  filled  every  vessel  with  tlie 
precious  element.  Thus  recruited,  hope  revived  ;  but  the  absence 
of  food  again  plunged  them  into  the  deepest  despair.  We  need 
not  relate  the  dreadful  alternative  to  v  hich  they  had  recourse  until 
several  large  sharks  rose  to  the  surface  and  followed  the  canoe; 
Tuwarri,  by  breaking  off"  the  head  of  an  iron  scraper,  fonnedit  into 
a  hook,  and  succeeded  in  catch'.ng  one  of  them,  wiiicli  waa  instanilv 
substitued  for  the  revolting  innqimt  which  had  hitherto  sustained 
life. 

Thus  refreshed,  they  again  worked  at  their  paddles  or  spread 
their  sail,  and  were  not  long  before  their  exertions  were  repaid  witli 
the  joyful  sight  of  land,  on  whicli  clusters  of  cocoa-nuts  crowned 
the  heads  of  several  tufts  of  palm-trees  :  they  hurried  through  tlie 
surf  and  soon  reached  the  much  wished-for  spot,  but  being  too  fee- 
ble to  asceni  the  lofty  trees,  they  were  obliged  to  fell  one  of  them 
with  an  axe 

On  traversing  the  island  to  which  Providence  liad  thus  conduct- 
ed them,  they  discovered  by  several  canoes  in  the  lagoon  and  path- 
ways intersecting  the  woods,  that  it  had  been  previously  inhabited; 
and  knowing  .he  greater  part  of  the  natives  of  the  low  islands  to  be 
cannibals,  they  determined  to  remain  no  longer  upon  it  than  was 
absolutely  necessary  to  recruit  their  strength,  imagining  that  the 
islanders,  when  they  did  return,  would  not  rest  satisfied  with  mere- 
ly dispossessing  them  of  their  asylum. 

It  was  necessary,  while  they  were  allowed  to  remain,  to  seek 


,U 


t> 


]  8-26.  J 


ANT>  nEEUINc's  STRAIT. 


153 


liroiiiiii  tiie 


phelter  from  tlic  woatlior,  and  to  exert  tlicmsclves  in  procuring  a 
supply  of  provision  for  tlioir  fiirtlicr  voyage  ;  liutr,  were  consequent- 
ly built,  pools  (lug  for  water,  and  three  eanoes  added  to  those  which 
were  found  in  the  lake.  Their  situation  by  these  means  was  rend- 
ered tolerably  comfortable,  and  they  not  only  provided  themselves 
with  necessaries  suflicient  for  their  daily  consumption,  but  were  able 
to  dry  and  lay  by  a  considerable  quantity  of  fish  for  sea  stock. 

After  a  time,  finding  themselves  undisturbed,  they  gained  confi- 
dence, and  deferred  their  departure  till  thirteen  months  had  elaps- 
ed fioni  the  time  of  their  landing.  At  the  expiration  of  which  pe- 
riod, being  in  good  bodily  health  and  supplied  with  every  requisite 
for  their  voyage,  they  again  launched  upon  the  ocean  in  quest  of 
home. 

Tlicy  steered  two  days  and  nights  to  the  northwest,  and  then  fell 
in  with  a  small  island,  upon  which,  as  it  appeared  to  be  uninhabit- 
ed, tliey  landed,  and  remained  three  days,  and  then  resumed  their 
voyage.  After  a  run  of  a  day  and  a  night  they  came  in  sight  of 
another  uninliabited  island.  In  their  attempt  to  land  upon  it  their 
canoe  was  unfortunately  stove,  but  all  the  party  got  safe  on  shore. 
The  damage  which  the  vessel  had  sustained  requiring  several  weeks 
to  repair,  they  established  themselves  upon  this  island,  and  again 
commenced  storing  up  provision  for  their  voyage.  Eight  months 
had  already  passed  in  these  (>ccupations,  when  we  unexpectedly 
found  them  thus  encamped  upon  Byam  Martin  Island ;  with  their 
canoe  repaired,  and  all  the  necessary  stores  provided  for  their  next 
expedition.     The  other  two  canoes  were  never  heard  of. 

Several  parts  of  this  curious  history  strongly  favoured  the  pre- 
sumption that  the  island  upon  which  the  party  first  landed  and  es- 
tablished themselves  was  Barrow  Island  :  and,  in  order  to  have  it 
confirmed,  the  piece  of  iron  that  had  been  brought  from  thence, 
and  had  fortunately  been  preserved,  was  produced.  Tuwarri,  when 
he  saw  it,  immediately  exclaimed  that  it  was  the  piece  of  iron  he 
had  broken  in  two  to  form  the  shark-hook,  which  was  the  means  of 
preserving  the  lives  of  his  party,  and  said  that  the  tree  we  found  cut 
down  with  some  sharp  edged  tool  was  that  which  his  party  felled 
before  their  strength  enabled  them  to  climb  for  fruit :  and  hence 
tlie  huts,  the  pools  of  water,  the  canoes,  &.c.  were  the  remains  of 
their  industry. 

This  curious  discovery  enabled  us  to  form  a  tolerably  accurate 
idea  of  the  distance  the  canoe  had  been  drifted  by  the  gale,  as  Bar- 
row Island  is  420  miles  in  a  direct  line  from  Chain  Island,  their  na- 
tive place  ;  and  if  to  this  be  added  100  miles  for  the  progress  they 
made  during  the  first  two  days  toward  Maitea,  and  the  distance  they 
went  on  their  return  before  tliey  reached  Barrow  Island,  the  whole 
cannot  amount  to  much  less  than  GOO  miles. 

20 


/" 


»'    ' 


i\ 


<  ft'  'i 


^gT' 


151 


VOYAOE  TO  THE  PAriFIf 


■/•'■/, 


!,"  t 


.'if,  ^ 


m 


Before  Tiiwarri  could  be  restored  to  liis  lioine,  we  visited  in  s,ir. 
cession  several  low  islands  to  which  he  was  a  strantier.  \N  liilc  wi; 
were  cruising;  among  them,  he  entertained  the  j^reatist  apiircliciisidn 
lest  we  had  lost  our  way,  and  perhaps  pictured  to  hiniselfa  \v\\v\\. 
tion  of  his  disastrous  voyage.  He  could  not  imagine  our  luoiivc 
for  pursuing  so  indirect  a  course,  and  frecpiently  incpiircdif  wc  woi,, 
going  to  his  native  island,  and  if  we  knew  wliere  it  was,  occasional. 
ly  pointing  in  the  dn-ection  of  it.  He  always  hoasted  of  a  kiunvl- 
edge  of  the  islands  lying  between  Bow  Island  (He-ow)  and  Chajn 
Island  (Anaa),  but  never  informed  us  right  when  we  came  to  any 
of  tlicm.  He  had,  it  is  true,  reason  to  be  anxious  ;  for  his  wife,  al- 
most the  whole  of  the  passage,  was  very  sea-sick,  which  gave  him 
great  concern  ;  and  when  the  sea  was  much  agitated,  he  apiK-aicij 
inconsolable.  When  he  at  length  arrived  within  sight  of  i'.\vm 
Island,  ]iis  joy  at  the  certainty  of  again  setting  foot  on  his  native  soil, 
and  meeting  friends  who  had  long  supposed  liim  lost,  may  readily  bo 
imagine  1.  His  gratitude  to  us  for  having  given  him  a  passage,  and 
for  our  attention  to  his  comfort,  was  expressed  in  tears  of  thankfnl- 
ness  ;  and  he  testified  his  regret  at  parting  in  a  manner  which  show- 
ed him  to  be  sincere;  and  as  he  was  going  away,  he  expressed  his 
sorrow  that  the  ship  would  not  remain  long  enough  ofF  the  island  lor 
liim  to  send  some  ''tie  token  of  his  gratitude.  These  feelings,  so 
highly  creditable  u>  Tuwarri,  were  not  participated  by  his  wilo, 
who,  on  the  contrary,  showed  no  concern  at  her  departure,  expres- 
sed neither  thanks  nor  regrets,  nor  turned  to  any  jierson  to  bid  him 
farewell ;  and  while  Tuwarri  was  suppressing  his  tears,  she  was 
laughing  at  the  exposure  which  she  thought  she  should  make  goin^ 
into  the  boat  without  an  accommodation-ladder.  Tuwarri,  while 
on  board  showed  no  curiosity,  knew  nothing  of  our  language,  or 
evinced  any  desire  to  learn  it ;  took  very  little'interest  in  any\hin: 
that  was  going  forward,  and  was  very  dull  of  comprehension.  He 
appeared  to  be  a  man  whose  energies  had  been  worn  down  by  hard- 
ship and  privation,  and  whom  misfortune  had  taught  to  look  on  the 
worst  side  of  every  thing.  But  with  all  these  weak  points,  he  had 
many  good  qualities.  He  lent  a  willing  hand  to  pull  at  a  rop(^\va^ 
cleanly  and  quiet,  punctually  attended  church  on  Sundays,  ami  had 
a  atrong  sense  of  right  and  wrong,  which,  as  far  as  his  abilities  ena- 
bled him,  governed  his  actions.  He  had  a  warm  heart,  and  his  at- 
tachment to  his  wife  and  children  amounted  even  to  weakness.  He 
had  a  tolerable  knowledge  of  the  relative  situation  of  the  islands  of 
the  archipelago,  and  reaciily  drew  a  chart  of  them,  assigning  to  each 
Its  name,  though,  as  I  have  said  before,  he  never  could  recoi;ni^e 
them.  Some  of  these  we  were  able  to  identify,  and  perhaps  slioiild 
have  done  so  with  others,  had  there  not  been  so  much  sameness  in 
all  the  coral  islands. 


^ 


A 


any  ihnu 
ision.  He 
u  by  liiinl- 

K)k  oil  t'li^ 

,ts,  lie  liail 
ropo.wib 
'S,  and  liiid 
ilitics  ciia- 
ind  his  Ill- 
ness. He 
islands  of 
ng  to  each 
recopil>e 
hps  slioiilii 
.nicMiL'ss  ill 


\S'i(i.] 


ANO  UEEUINfi's   STUAIT, 


165 


Mr.  Belcher,  who  was  in  conunand  of  th(j  barge  wliiclj  put  him 
on  shore,  says,  ho  was  not  received  by  his  countrymen  with  the 
surprise  and  pleasure  which  might  liave  been  expected ;  but  this 
may,  i)erhaps,  be  explained  by  there  being  no  one  on  the  beach  to 
wlioni  he  was  particularly  attached,  lielbre  the  barge  quitted  the 
island,  he  put  on  board  some  shells  as  a  present,  in  gratitude  for  the 
assistance  which  had  been  rendered  liim. 

Reverting  to  the  occurrences  of  the  ship  off  Bow  Island:  Mr. 
Kl^un,  the  ollicer  who  was  sent  to  examine  the  channel  into  the  la- 
goon, reiurned  with  the  supercargo  of  the  Dart,  Mr.  Hussey,  and 
made  a  favourable  report  of  the  depth  of  water  in  the  passage,  but 
said  its  width  was  so  very  contracted  that  it  could  not  be  passed 
without  hazard.  The  exact  distance  from  reef  to  reef  is  115  feet, 
and  tiiere  is  a  coral  knoll  in  the  centre  ;  the  trade-wind  does  not  al- 
ways allow  a  ship  to  lie  well  through  it,  and  there  is,  at  times,  a  tide 
ruiniing  out  at  the  rate  of  four  knots  an  hour.  It  was,  however, 
necessary  to  incur  this  risk  ;  and,  on  the  information  of  Mr.  Hussey 
tliiit  the  morning  was  the  most  favourable  time  for  the  attempt, 
slioitly  after  daylight  on  the  next  day  (15th),  under  Mr.  Elson's 
skilliil  pilotage,  we  shot  through  the  passage,  at  the  rate  of  seven 
knots,  and  were  instantly  in  a  broad  sheet  of  smooth  water.  Wc 
I'ound  the  lagoon  studded  with  coral  knolls,  whicli  it  was  necessary 
to  avoid  by  a  \  igilant  look  out  from  aloft,  as  the  lead  gave  no  warn- 
iii;^  of  their  vicinity  ;  wc  beat  among  them  at  some  risk,  and  at  ten 
o'clock  anchored  at  the  N.  E.  angle  of  the  lake,  in  ten  fathoms  wa- 
ter on  a  broad  patch  of  sand,  about  a  quarter  if  a  mile  from  the 
shore,  and  in  as  secure  a  harbour  as  could  be  requir-^d. 

Nearly  opposite  to  our  ancliorage,  the  natives,  about  fifty  in  num- 
l)er,liad  erected  temporary  huts  during  the  stay  of  the  Dart,  their  per- 
manent residences  being  at  the  opi)osite  end  of  the  island.  They  were 
ill  appearance  the  most  indolent  ill-looking  race  we  had  yet  seen ; 
broad  flat  noses,  dull  sunken  eyes,  thick  lips,  mouths  turned  down 
at  the  corners,  strongly  wrinkled  countenances,  and  long  bushy  hair 
matted  w  ith  dirt  and  vermin.  Their  stature  was  above  the  middle 
size,  but  generally  crooked ;  their  limbs  bony,  their  muscles  flaccid, 
aiui  their  covering  a  niaro.  But  hideous  as  the  men  were,  their  re- 
volting a[)pearance  w'as  surpassed  by  the  opposite  sex  of  the  same 
ai:;e.  The  males  were  all  lolling  against  the  cocoa-nut  trees,  with 
their  arms  round  each  other's  necks,  enjoying  the  refreshing  shade 
of  a  thick  foilage  of  |)alm-trees  ;  while  the  women,  old  and  young, 
were  labouring  hard  in  the  sun,  in  the  service  of  their  masters,  for 
dicy  did  not  merit  the  name  of  husbands.  The  children,  quite  nak- 
ed, were  i)laced  u])on  mats,  crying  and  rolling  to  and  fro,  to  displace 
some  of  tile  myriads  of  house-flies,  whicli  so  speckled  their  bodies 
ihiit  their  real  colour  waa  scarcely  discernible, 


•i 


i 


I. 


i  ■ 


l(t^ 


';)     ' 


U 


<fl)  <i 


m> 


W  J 


15t) 


VUYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[t\(>. 


w 


\I  iii 


^  '^ 


f 


*.      J 


Amidst  this  scone  I  was  introduced  to  tiie  chief,  who  was  distin- 
guishcd  from  his  subjects  by  his  superior  heij;;ht  and  strength,  ami 
probably  maintained  his  authority  solely  by  those  (iualiti(;s.  Hy 
gave  me  a  friendly  reception,  and  suffered  us  to  cut  down  wlmt 
wood  we  wanted,  confining  us  only  to  those  trees  which  produced 
no  edible  fruits.  In  return  for  some  presents  made  him,  he  drew 
from  his  canoe  several  pearl  fishing-hooks  and  bundles  of  turtle- 
shell,  and  begged  my  acceptance  of  them  ;  but  his  extreme  pover- 
ty was  such,  that  1  could  not  bring  myself  to  do  so,  though  I  do  not 
know  to  what  material  use  tlie  last-mentioned  article  could  be  applied 
by  him. 

We  availed  ourselves  of  the  areghe's  permission,  and  sent  a  par- 
ty to  cut  as  many  trees  as  we  reipiired,  consisting  principally  of  the 
pemphis  acidula,  as  at  Byam  Martin  Island.  Mr.  Marsh  endeav- 
oured to  engage  some  of  the  natives  in  this  imployment,  by  olferiii;: 
shirts,  tobacco,  Sic;  but,  notwithstanding  the  munificence  of  tliu 
reward,  the  areghc  alone  could  be  roused  from  his  lethargy  ;  and 
even  he  quitted  the  axe  before  the  first  tree  was  felled. 

A  party  of  seamen  was  at  the  same  time  sent,  under  the  direc- 
tion of  Lieutenant  AVainwright,  to  dig  wells ;  in  which  their  success 
was  so  satisfactory,  that  in  less  than  three  days  we  procured  thirty 
tons  of  fresh  water.  The  wells  were  about  four  feet  deep,  diii; 
through  the  sand  into  the  coral  rock.  Into  two  of  these  the  water 
flowed  as  fast  as  we  could  fill  the  casks  ;  and  when  allowed  to  stand, 
rose  eighteen  inches.  This  water  was  drunk  by  all  the  ship's  com- 
pany for  several  weeks,  and  proved  tolerably  good,  though  it  did 
not  keep  as  well  as  spring  water.*  It  is  important  to  navigators  to 
know,  that  even  as  good  water  as  this  may  be  procured  on  the  coral 
islands  by  means  of  wells.  In  digging  them,  the  choice  of  situation 
should  be  given  to  the  most  elevated  part  of  the  island,  and  to  a 
spot  distant  from  the  sea ;  perhaps  in  the  vicinity  of  cocoa-nut  trees. 
It  is  a  curious  fact  that,  in  Bow  Island,  the  water  that  flowed  into 
lioles  dug  within  a  yard  of  the  sea  was  fresh  enough  to  be  drunk  bv 
the  sailors,  and  served  the  purpose  of  the  natives  while  they  re- 
mained in  our  vicinity  ;  though  I  do  not  think  Europeans  could  have 
used  it  long  with  impunity. 

Not  far  from  the  tcmporay  residence  of  the  natives,  there  was  a 
level  spot  of  ground,  overgrown  with  grass,  upon  which  the  observ- 

♦  Mr  Collie  observes,  in  his  Jouinul,  that  a  "  solution  of  nitrate  of  soda  dctfctcd in 
it  a  moderate  proportion  of  muriatic  acid,  embodied  in  the  soda.  It  had  no  braikisli 
taste.  Witli  an  alcoholic  solution  of  soap  it  formed  a  copious  white  precipitate  :  with 
oxalate  of  ammonia  it  formed  slowly,  but  after  some  time  a  dense  white  cloud  :  witli 
nitrate  of  silver  an  abundant  purplish-white  precipitate;  it  remained  uncliiiiiircJ 
with  nitrate  of  barytes.  Tlius  show  in^'-  that  it  contained  no  sulphuric  acid,  liut  tlmt 
it  was  impreg-nated  with  muriatic  acid  and  niag'ncsia,  most  likely  muriate  of  soiia 
and  magnesia,  the  component  parts  of  sen  water." 


\m\ 


AND    DLCRINU  U    STllAIT. 


157 


iiiory  was  erected  ;  iiiitl  1  had  in  c()nso((iic'nce  (Vequciit  iiitorcoursu 
uitli  then,  and,  tlnuui;li  tliu  niediiun  of  the  interpreter  of  the  Dart, 
learned  many  interesting;  jjarticulars  ennccrninu;  tiieni.  Uy  tliis  ac- 
count tiiey  have  not  long  desisted  from  caniiiljalisui.  On  question- 
iiiu;  the  chief,  he  acknowhiged  himseli"  to  have  been  present  at  sev- 
eral feasts  of  human  liodies,  and  on  expatiating  on  tlio  excellence 
of  the  food,  particularly  wlien  it  was  that  of  a  female,  his  brutal 
countenance  became  Huslied  with  a  horrible  expression  of  animation. 
Their  eninies,  those  slain  in  battle,  or  those  who  die  violent  deaths, 
and  murderers,  were,  he  said,  the  only  subjects  selected  for  these 
leasts;  the  latter,  whether  justified  or  not,  were  put  to  death,  and 
cateii  alike  with  tiieir  victims.  They  have  still  a  great  partiality 
for  raw  food,  which  is  but  one  remove  I'rom  cannibalism  ;  and  when 
a  canoe  full  offish  was  brought  one  day  to  the  village,  the  men,  be- 
fore it  could  be  drawn  to  the  shore,  fell  upon  its  contents,  and  de- 
voured every  part  of  the  fish  excej)t  the  bones  and  fins.  The  w  o- 
iiicn,  whose  business  it  was  to  unload  the  boat,  did  the  best  thoy 
could  with  one  of  them  between  their  teeth,  while  their  hands  were 
employed  portioning  the  contents  of  the  canoe  into  small  hcajs. 
IJnt  even  in  this  repast  we  were  glad  to  observe  some  indication  of 
fueling  in  putting  the  animal  speedily  out  of  torture  by  biting  its 
lioad  in  two,  the  only  jjroof  of  humanity  which  they  manifested.  In 
like  manner,  cleanliness  was  not  overlooked  by  them,  for  they  care- 
fully rinsed  their  mouths  after  the  disgusting  meal. 

It  appeared  that  the  chief  liad  three  wives,  and  that  polygamy 
was  permitted  to  an  unlimited  extent ;  any  man  of  the  community, 
we  were  told,  might  put  away  his  wife  whenever  it  was  his  pleasure 
to  do  so,  and  take  another,  provided  she  were  disengagod.  No  cer- 
emony takes  place  at  the  wedding ;  it  being  sufRcient  lor  a  man  to 
say  to  p  woman,  "  You  shall  be  my  wife ;"  and  she  becomes  so. 

The  offspring  of  these  unions  seemed  to  be  the  objects  of  the  only 
feelings  of  affection  the  male  sex  possessed,  as  there  were  certainly 
none  bestowed  on  the  women.     Indeed  the  situation  of  the  females 
is  much  to  be  pitied ;  in  no  part  of  the  world,  probably,  are  they 
treated  more  brutally.     While  their  husbands  are  indulging  their 
lethargic  disposition  under  the  shade  of  the  cocoa-nut  trees,  making 
no  eftbrt  toward  their  own  support  beyond  that  of  eating  when  their 
food  is  placed  before  them,  the  women  are  sent  t    the  reefs  to  wade 
over  the  sharp-pointed  coral  in  search  of  shell-fisli,  or  the  woods  to 
collect  pandanus-nuts.     We  have  seen  them  going  out  at  day-light 
on  these  pursuits,  and  returning  quite  fatigued  with  their  morning 
toil.     In  this  state,  instead  of  enjoying  a  little  repose  on  reaching 
their  home,  they  are  engaged  in  the  laborious  occupation  of  prepar- 
ing what  they  have  gathered  for  their  hungry  masters,  who,  immedi- 
lUely  the  nuts  are  placed  before  them,  irtay  their  appetites  by  extrac- 


158 


VOYAGE   TO  THE   PACIFIC 


[/'' 


V     s 


m 


'    1 '.  > 


M 


li/   <'^^''.: 


Wi 


ling  the  piilpy  substance  contained  in  the  outside  woody  fibres  of  ijic 
fruit,  and  throw  'he  ren)ain(it>-  !o  their  \\  ives,  who  further  oxtiMi 
what  is  kit  of  the  pulp  for  theii'  own  share,  and  proceed  to  cxtricatr 
the  contents  of  the  interior,  consisting  of  four  or  five  small  kernel, 
about  the  size  of  an  almond.  To  perform  this  operation,  tlio  nut  ]< 
placed  u])on  a  flat  stone  endwiho,  and  with  a  block  of  coral,  as  lar:;( 
as  tlie  strength  of  the  women  will  enable  them  to  lift,  is  split  in  piwes. 
and  the  contents  again  j)ut  aside  lor  their  husbands,  /is  it  recjuire. 
a  considerable  number  of  these  small  nuts  to  satisfy  the  appetites  ul 
their  rapacious  rulers,  the  time  of  the  women  is  wholly  passed  npDi, 
their  knees  pounding  nuts,  or  uj)on  the  sharp  coral  collecting  sliellv 
and  sra  eggs.  On  some  occasion'  the  nuts  are  baked  in  the  grouml, 
which  gives  them  a  more  agreeable  flavour,  and  facilitates  the  ex- 
traction of  the  pulp;  it  does  not,  however,  diminish  the  labour  of 
the  fenalcs,  who  ha\e  in  either  case  to  bruise  the  fibres  to  procure 
the  smaller  nuts. 

The  suj)criority  of  sex  was  rever  more  rigidly  ei..orced  llinn 
among  these  barbarians,  nor  were  the  male  part  of  the  human  spe- 
cies ever  more  despicable.  Op  one  occasion  an  unforiunate  women 
\\  lio  was  pounding  some  of  these  nuts,  which  she  had  walked  a  great 
distance  to  gather,  thinking  herself  unobserved,  ate  two  or  three  of 
the  kernels  as  she  extracted  them ;  but  this  did  not  escape  the  vii;i- 
lance  of  her  brutal  husband,  who  instantly  rose  and  felled  her  to  the 
ground  in  the  most  inhuman  manner  with  three  violent  blows  of  liij 
(ist.  Thus  tyrannised  over,  debr  sod,  neglected  by  the  male  sex,  and 
strangers  to  social  afFoction.  it  is  no  wonder  all  those  qua'ities  wliicl: 
in  civilized  countries  constitute  +he  fascination  of  woman  arcintheju 
people  wholly  wanting. 

The  sa|)ercargo  of  the  Dart,  to  forward  the  service  he  was  ciigai;- 
ed  in,  had  hired  a  prrty  of  the  natives  of  Chain  Island  to  dive  fur 
shells.  Among  these  was  a  native  missionary,*  a  very  well-be- 
haved ma.i,  who  used  every  effort  to  convert  his  new  acquaintances 
to  Christianity.  He  persevered  amidst  much  silent  ridicule,  aiulai 
length  succeeded  in  persuading  the  greater  part  of  the  islanders  |ij 
coi  form  to  the  ceremonies  of  Christian  worship.  It  was  interest- 
ing to  contemplate  a  body  of  savages,  abandoning  their  superstilions, 
silently  and  reverently  kneeling  upon  the  sandy  shore,  and  joining 
in  the  morning  and  evening  jjrayers  to  the  Almighty.  'ilioiiL'li 
their  sincerity  may  be  questioned,  yet  it  is  hoped  that  an  inq)r('ssioii 
may  be  made  vjion  these  neophytes,  which  may  tend  lo  iiiipro\i' 
their  moral  condition. 

Previous  to  the  arrival  of  the  missionary,  every  one  had  his  pe- 
culiar deity,  of  whicli  the  most  common  was  a  piece  of  woo  1  with  a 

'*  Wt:  wciL'  tulil  Dull  ill  Cliiiiii  J.'lund  there  wcic  lliiilttli  houdc'c  ul'  prayti-  umiu 
ilit:  iliicitiou  ul'iiati\(;  iiii^idiunurits. 


w 


\-'\  ¥' 


'•\ ., 


\?2G.] 


AND  BEERINO'S  STRAIT. 


150 


aift  oriuinian  liair  inserted  into  it;  buttliat  wliielnvas  deemed  most 
eliicacioiis,  when  it  eould  l)e  procnred,  was  the  tlii<:;ii  bone  of  an 
enemy,  or  of  a  relation  recently  dead.  Into  the  hoUowof  this  tliey 
jiisevtcd  a  lock  of  the  same  person's  hair,  and  then  suspended  the 
idol  to  a  tree.  To  these  symbols  they  address  their  prayers  as  long 
ii<;  tliey  remained  in  favour;  but,  like  the  girl  in  China,  who  when  dis- 
an|)ointed  by  her  lover,  pulled  down  the  brazen  image  and  whipped 
it.  tiicse  peojde,  when  dissatisfied  with  their  deily,  no  longer  ac- 
|<noAdeilged  his  power,  and  substituted  some  other  idol.  Tiierewere 
times,  however,  when  they  feared  its  anger,  and  endeavoured  to 
anpease  it  with  cocoa-nuts ;  but  1  did  not  hear  of  any  human  sacri- 
fices being  olFered.  They  appeared  to  entertain  the  Pythagorean 
doctrine  of  the  transmigration  of  thr  .soul,  and  supposed  the  first  ves- 
sel which  they  saw  to  be  the  spirii  (f  their  relations  lately  deceased. 
The  compartments  allotted  to  the  dead  are  here  tabooed  ;  and  the 
bodies,  first  wrapped  in  mats,  are  placed  under  ground.  A'^  the  soul 
is  sU[)posed  for  a  time  to  frequent  these  places,  provision  and  water 
are  placed  near  the  spot  for  its  use;  and  it  would  be  thought  unkind, 
or  that  some  evil  would  befal  the  person  whose  business  it  is  to  pro- 
vide them,  if  these  supplies  were  neglected. 

The  manufactures  of  those  people  are  the  same  with  those  of  all 
tlie  other  islanders,  and  are  only  such  as  nature  renders  necessary, 
consisting  of  mats,  maros,  baskets,  fishing-tackle,  &.c.  They  jiavc 
no  occupation  beyond  the  manufacture  of  these  few  articles,  and 
providing  for  their  daily  support.  On  interrogating  the  chief  how 
he  i)assed  the  day,  he  said  he  rose  early  and  ate  his  breakfast ;  ho 
then  invoked  his  deity ;  sometimes  he  went  to  fish  or  catch  turtle ; 
l)iit  more  generally  passed  his  time  under  the  shade  of  the  cocoa-nut 
trees:  in  the  evening  he  ate  again,  and  went  to  sleep 

The  natives  of  this  island,  according  to  information  obtained  by 
ilie  interpreter  on  board  the  Dart,  amount  altogether  to  about  a 
hundred  souls. 

As  my  stay  at  the  island  was  limited  to  four  days,  my  time  was 
much  occuj)ied  at  the  obstu'vatory,  and  1  am  indebted  to  the  jour- 
nals of  the  officers  for  many  interesting  particulars  relating  to  other 
[lii'ls  of  it,  and  to  its  natural  productions. 

By  our  trigonometrical  survey.  Bow  Island  1,  thirty  nnles  long 
by  an  average  of  five  miles  broad.  It  is  similar  to  the  other  coral 
islands  already  described,  confinmg  within  a  narrow  band  of  coral  a 
spacious  lagoon,  and  having  its  windward  side  higher  and  more 
wooded  than  the  other;  which  indeed,  with  the  exception  of  a  finv 
clusters  of  trees  and  heaps  of  sand,  is  little  better  than  a  reef.  The 
sea  in  several  places  washes  into  tlie  lagoon,  but  there  is  no  pas- 
sage even  for  a  boat,  except  that  by  which  the  ship  entered,  which 
is  sonu'times  dangerous  to  boats,   in  consc((uence  of  the  overfalls 


m 


IfiO 


VificyACE  TO  THE   PACIFIC 


\Fch. 


from  the  lagrion.  especiailj  a  little  after  the  time  of  high  water.  \[ 
is  to  be  hoped  that  the  r;r  ud  riirrent  which  sets  through  the  chaii- 
iiel  will  prevent  the  groK»'iii  '/tlie  coral,  ami  leave  the  lagoon  ahvius 
accessible  to  shipjiing.  k  li«w  at  the  north  side  of  the  island,  iimj 
may  be  known  by  Hvo  stragglSfig  cocoa-nut  trees  near  it,  on  tho 
western  side,  and  a  elunip  of  trees  on  the  other. 

Thc^  bottom  of  th(^  iagoiaffl  is  in  parts  .x)vered  with  a  fine  wlijtt. 
»»nd,  *nd  it  is  thickly  ^^e\x<rfd  witb  coral  knolls:  the  upper  parts  of 
which  -overhang  the  lower,  it'l»ougli  they  do  not  at  once  rise  in  this 
form  fiXiftv  ihf;  bottom,  but  frofe  -^mai!  b-ilock.^.  We  found conipar- 
atively  i'em  beneath  the  i-iuiface.  thowsh  there  are  some ;  at  iho 
edge  of -u<^»  ^h  ^re  exposed,  there  -  u  "  -Ik  or  seven  fathom? 
water;  rcco^ng  from  it,  the  lead  gju(u  ._.  i.ccends  to  the  geiioml 
level  of  about  i*  enty  fathoms.  The  laa;o«'^  c^^ntains  an  ahundaiiro 
of  shell-fish,  paftTi^ularly  those  of  the  peiu'l-o^'Kierkind.  The  partv 
in  the  employ  of  tlw?  Dart  .sometimes  col'UK;l<?d  seventeen  hundred 
of  these  shells  in  one  flay. 

The  height  of  the  lagoon  is  subject  to  the  v^>rialions  of  the  tides 
of  the  ocean  ;  hut  it  sulfers  so  many  disturbances  from  the  waves 
which  occasionally  inundate  the  low  parts  of  the  surrounding  land, 
that  neither  the  rise  of  the  tide  nor  the  time  of  high  water  can  he 
estimated  with  any  degree  of  certainty.  Were  the  communication 
between  the  lake  and  the  sea  larger,  so  as  to  admit  of  .^v  -•■nter 
finding  its  level,  the  period  of  low  w'ater  might  be  detenniuod,  as 
there  is  a  change  of  tide  in  the  entrance. 

The  strip  of  low  land  enclosing  the  lagoon  is  nearly  seventy  miles 
in  extent,  and  the  part  that  is  dry  is  about  a  quarter  of  a  milo  in 
width.  On  the  inner  side,  a  few  yards  from  the  margin  of  the  lake. 
there  is  a  low  bank  formed  of  finely  broken  coral ;  and,  at  the  out- 
er edge,  a  much  higher  bank  of  large  blocks  of  the  same  niatiMinI. 
long  since  removed  from  the  reach  of  the  waves,  and  gradually  pre- 
paring for  the  reception  of  vegetation.  Beyond  this  high  hank 
there  is  a  third  ridge,  similar  to  that  skirting  the  lagoon  :  and  out- 
side it  again,  as  well  as  in  the  lagoon,  there  is  a  wide  shelf  throcoi 
four  feet  under  water,  the  outer  one  bearing  upon  its  surface  hup' 
masses  of  broken  coral ;  the  materials  for  an  outer  bank,  similar  lo 
the  large  one  just  described.  These  appearances  naturally  su£;2;csi 
the  idea  of  the  island  having  ri??n  by  slow  degrees.  Thus  the  sand 
dispersed  over  the  lagoon  indicates  a  period  when  the  sea  rolled  en- 
tirely over  the  reef,  tore  up  blocks  of  coral  from  its  margin,  and  hy 
constant  trituration  ground  them  to  powder,  and  finally  dejjosited 
the  particles  wher(>  th<>y  now  re-t.  The  hank  near  the  lake  mn<\ 
have  originated  at  a  subsecpient  period,  when  the  outer  edge  be- 
coming nearer  to  the  surface,  moderated  the  strength  of  the  wavo<. 
and  the  wash  of  the  sea   reaelied  oidy  far   enough  to  deposit  the 


18-26.] 


AND  IJEEniNC  S   STH.VIt. 


IGI 


broken  coral  in  the  place  described.  At  a  still  less  distant  period, 
wiiLMi  the  Island  became  dry,  and  the  violc:je  of  the  sea  was  whol- 
ly spent  upon  its  marjj;in,  the  coral,  which  had  before  escaped  by 
being  beneath  the  snrface,  gave  way  to  the  impetuous  wave,  and 
was  deposited  in  broken  masses,  which  formed  tlie  high  ridge. 
Here  the  sea  appears  to  have  broken  a  considerable  time,  until  a 
second  ledge  gradually  extending  seaward,  and  approaching  the  sur- 
face, so  lessened  the  eilbct  of  the  waves  u])on  this  ledge  also,  that 
they  were  again  only  capable  of  throwing  u\)  an  inferior  heap  simi- 
lar to  the  one  first  mentioned.  In  process  of  time  this  outer  ledge  will 
become  dry. and  many  large  blocks  of  coral  now  lying  near  its  edge  will, 
probably,  firm  another  heap  similar  to  the  large  one;  aiid  thus  the 
ishiiid  will  continue  to  increase  by  a  succession  of  ledges  being 
brought  to  the  surlhc e,  v.hile,  by  the  same  process,  the  lagoon  will 
L'radually  become  more  shallow  and  contracted. 

Tlic  ridges  are  particularly  favourable  to  the  formation  of  a  soil, 
by  retaining  within  them  whatever  may  be  there  deposited  un- 
til it  decays,  and  by  protecting  the  tender  shrubs  during  their 
early  growth.  Near  our  observatory  the  soil  had  attained  a  depth 
of"  about  eight  inches  before  we  came  to  broken  coral. 

"In  the  central  and  sheltered  parts  of  the  plain  between  the 
ridges  the  pandanus  spreads  its  divergent  roots  and  rears  its  fruitful 
branches  ;  the  pemphis  also  takes  root  in  the  same  situation.  The 
loose  dry  stones  of  the  first  ridge  are  penetrated  by  the  hard  roots  of 
tlie  tcfano,  which  expands  its  branches  into  a  tall  spreading  tree, 
and  is  attended  by  the  fragrant  suriana,  and  the  sweet-scented  tour- 
nofortia,  in  the  shelter  of  whose  foilage  the  tender  achyranthus  and 
lepidinm  seem  to  thrive  best.  Beyond  the  first  high  stony  ridge 
tbe  hardy  scrcvola  extends  its  creeping  roots  and  procumbent  ver- 
dure towards  the  sea,  throwing  its  succulent  leaves  round  the  sharp 
coral  stones." 

"  On  the  windward  side,  wherever  the  pandanus  was  devoid  of 
ilic  protection  of  tbe  more  hardy  trees,  the  brown  and  decayed 
leaves  showed  it  had  advanced  beyond  its  pro})er  boundary."* 

We  quitted  Bow  island  on  the  !20th  of  February,  and  continued 
the  survey  of  the  archipelago,  until  the  ])eriod  had  arrived  when  it 
was  necessary  to  proceed  direct  to  Otaheite,  to  prepare  the  ship 
for  her  voyage  to  the  northward.  We  were  greatly  retarded  to- 
ward tlie  close  of  our  operations  by  the  rainy  season,  which  was 
attended  with  calms,  and  hot,  sultry,  wet  weather,  and  perhaps, 
had  we  continued  at  sea,  would  have  prevented  any  thing  more 
being  done.  The  dysentary  about  this  time  began  to  make  its  ap- 
pearance among  the  ship's  company,  owing   no  doubt  to  the   rains 


.',  ( 


\ 


V  ■■■ 


*Mr.  Collie's  Journul. 


.  ..■;i 


K  i 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


\l'\h. 


1*;vfl 


)'  ■,! 


ilr,  ],[ 


I)         ,.( 


and  closeness  of  tlie  atmosphere,  conil)ined  with  the  harassuis;  dutv 
arising  from  the  navigation  of  a  sea  so  thickly  strewed  with  islands, 
and  to  the  men  having  been  a  long  time  on  a  reduced  allouauce  of 
salt  provisions. 

The  islands  which  were  visited  between  Bow  Island  and  Ota- 
lieite  were  all  of  the  same  character  and  formation  as  those  aLtadv 
described,  and  furnished  us  with  no  additional  information  beyond 
the  correct  determinition  of  their  size  and  j)osition  ;  which,  with 
some  remarks  that  may  l,o  useful  to  navigation,  arc  given  in  the 
A])pendix  to  the  4to.  ed.  "AHiong  the  number  there  were  two 
which  were  previously  unknown  ;  the  largest  of  these  which  was 
also  the  most  extensive  of  our  discoveries  in  the  archipelago,  I  n;i. 
med  Melville  Island,  in  honour  of  the  first  lord  of  the  Admiraltv  • 
and  the  other,  Crokcr  Island,  in  compliment  to  the  right  honoura- 
ble secretary. 

The  discoveries  of  Cook  and  Wallis  in  this  track  are  relativoir 
correctly  plaecd  ;  but  those  of  the  latter  are  as  much  as  forty  niilos 
in  error  in  longitude,  and  several  miles  in  latitude,  which  has  orca- 
sioned  two  of  them  to  be  mistaken  for  each  other  by  IJellinghauseii, 
and  ouf  to  be  considered  as  a  new  discovery  by  Captain  Du[)eni'\. 
It  would  not  have  been  easy  to  detect  these  errors,  had  we  not  vis- 
ited the  discoveries  of  Wallis  in  succession,  beginning  with  Whii- 
sundav  and  queen  Charlotte's  Islands,  which  are  so  situated  that  no 
mistake  in  them  could  possibly  occur.  JNIoreover,  we  alwavs 
searched  the  vicinity  narrowly  for  the  existence  of  other  islands. 

The  mistakes  have  arisen  from  placing  too  much  confidence  in 
the  longitude  of  the  early  navigator.  The  true  ])lace  of  Cund)ci- 
land  Island  lying  much  nearer  the  alleged  position  of  Wallis's  Piince 
William-Henry  Island  than  any  other,  has  occasioned  Bellin<rliaii- 
sen's  mistake  :  and  the  true  ])osition  of  Prince  Wiliiam-IIenrv  he- 
ing  so  remote  from  any  of  Wallis's  discoveries,  as  placed  by  him- 
self, has  made  Captain  Duperrcy  think  the  one  which  he  sawcouli' 
not  possibly  be  one  of  them,  and  he  in  consequence  bestowed  upon  it 
the  new  i-'Uiie  of  L'Ostanaic. 


There  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  island  which  I  consider   P 


rince 


Wiiliam-H(>nry  Island  is  the  L'Ostange  of  Captain  Duperrey,  as  we 
l)ad  an  oppoituui(y  of  conq)aring  longitudes  with  him  at  Mollcf  Inl- 
and ;  and  it  is  equally  certain  that  this  island  is  the  s>'nie  with  thai 
discovenl  by  Wallis,  as  at  its  distance  from  Queen  Charlotte's  Isl- 
and and  his  other  discoveries  to  the  eastward,  each  of  whi(di  we 
visited,  exactly  coincides.  Wallis  has  certainly  erred  ten  miles  in 
latitude,  but  it  should  be  recollected  that  the  position  of  the  island 
was  fi.'ied  by  reckoning  from  noon,  the  islan'l  having  been  seen  at 
daybreak  "far  to  windward  ;"  and  it  should  not  be  ov(M-look(Mllhai 
his  latitude  at  Cumberland  Island  the  day  before  was  ei>ilit  miles  in 


»^/x 


mG.] 


AND  BEERING  S  STRAIT. 


163 


error  tlie  same  way,  wliirli  makes  it  very  probable  tbat  eitlier  his 
obsLnvatioiis  were  indifferent,  or  that  he  had  incorrect  tables  of  de- 
clination. 

In  forming  this  conclinion,  I  am  aware  that  I  am  depriving  Cap- 
tain l)u])errey  of  the  merit  of  a  discovery,  but  he  will,  it  is  hoped, 
admit  the  justice  of  my  opinion. 

All  the  islands  seen  by  Cook,  Wallis,  and  Carteret,  lying  within  the 
limit  of  our  survey,  have  been  found  to  be  accurately  described,  ox- 
rcpting  that  their  size  has  always  been  overrated  ;  a  mistake  very 
likely  to  arise  with  low  strips  oi'  land  deficient  in  familiar  objects  to 
(liirct  the  judgment  where  actual  measurement  is  not  resotred  to. 

Tlie  disco\  cries  oflMr.  Turnbidl  are  so  loosely  related  in  his  en - 
tcrtuining  Voyage,  that  their  situation  cannot  be  entertained ;  and 
unless  some  better  clue  t  >  them  is  given,  they  will  always  be  liable 
(0  be  claimed  by  subsequent  navigators. 

Of  the  thirty-two  islands  which  have  thus  been  visited  in  succes- 
sion, only  twelve  are  inhabited,  including  Pitcairn  Island,  and  the 
ait'ount  of  the  population  altogether  cannot  possibly  exceed  three 
thoMsaiid  one  hundred  sovds  :  of  which  one  thousand  belong  to  the 
(ianihier  groupe,  and  twelve  hundred  and  sixty  to  Easter  Islaiid, 
leaving  eight  hundred  and  forty  persons  only  to  occupy  the  other 
thirty  islands. 

All  the  natives  ajiparently  profess  the  same  religion  ;  all  speak 
tlie  same  language,  and  are  in  all  essential  points  the  same  people. 
There  is  a  great  diversity  of  features  and  complexion  between  those 
inhabiting  the  volcanic  islands  and  the  natives  of  the  coral  forniations, 
the  former  being  a  taller  and  fairer  race.  This  change  may  be  attri- 
Inited  to  a  difference  of  food,  habits,  and  comfort ;  the  one  having 
to  seek  a  daily  sul)sist('nce  upon  the  reefs,  exposed  to  a  burning 
snn  and  to  the  painful  glare  of  a  white  coral  beach,  while  the  oth- 
er enjoys  plentifully  the  spontiuieous  produce  of  the  earth,  reposes 
hcneat!'.  'he  genial  shade  of  pakn  or  bread-fruit  groves,  and  passes 
ii  lii'e  of  comparative  ease  and  luxury. 

It  has  hitherto  been  a  matter  of  conjecture  how  these  islands,  so 
remote  from  both  great  continents,  have  received  their  aborigines. 
The  intimate  connexion  between  the  language,  worship,  manners, 
customs,  and  traditions  of  the  people  who  dwell  upon  them,  and 
those  of  the  Malays  and  other  inhabitants  of  the  great  islands  to  the 
westward,  leave;,  no  doubt  of  frequent  emigrations  from  thence;  and 
\vi-  i,;>t!!:ally  look  to  th.ose  countries  as  the  source  from  which  they 
liave  sprung.  The  diniculty,  however,  instantly  presents  itself  of 
liroceeding  so  vast  a  distance  in  opposition  to  the  prevailing  wind 
and  current,  without  vessels  better  equipped  than  those  which  are 
in  possession  of  the  above-mentioned  people.  This  objection  has  so 
[)o\^  I'rfidly  induenced  the  minds  of  some  authors  that  they  have  had 


^ 


*   '• 


'U 


H      ' 


i    \ 


*      i 


164 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Fd.   I  1326.] 


i.'    I 


recourse  to  the  circuitous  route  through  Tr.rtary,  across  Bcoriiiii's 
Strait,  and  over  the  American  continent,  to  bring  the  emigrants  to  a 
situation  whence  they  miglit  be  drifted  by  the  ordinary  course  of  tin; 
winds  to  the  lands  in  question.  Hut  had  this  been  the  case,auioie 
intimate  resemblance  would  surely  be  found  to  exist  between  the 
American  Indians  and  the  natives  of  Polynesia. 

All  agreed  as  to  the  manner  in  which  these  migrations  between 
the  islands  have  been  efiected,  and  some  few  instances  have  actually 
been  met  with  ;  but  they  have  been  in  one  direction  only,  and  have 
rathe-  favoured  the  opinion  of  migration  from  the  eastward.  The 
accident  which  threw  incur  way  Tuwarri  and  his  companions,  who. 
it  may  be  recollected,  were  driven  six  hundred  miles  in  a  direction 
contrary  to  the  trade-wind  in  spite  of  their  utmost  exertions,  has 
fortunately  enabled  us  to  remove  the  objections,  which  have  been 
urged  against  the  general  opinion.  The  fact  being  so  well  attested 
and  the  only  one  of  the  kind  upon  record,  is,  consequently,  of  the 
highest  interest,  both  as  regards  its  singulai'ity,  and  as  it  establishes 
the  ]}ossibilitij  of  the  case.  Though  this  is  the  only  instance  that 
has  come  to  our  knowledge,  there  is  no  reason  why  .nany  other  ca- 
noes may  not  have  shared  a  similar  fate  ;  and  some  few  of  many 
thousancls,  perhaps,  may  have  drifted  to  the  remotest  island  of  the 
archipelago,  and  thus  peopled  them. 

The  navigation  of  canoes  between  the  islands  in  sight  of  cacli 
other  was,  and  is  still,  very  general :  and  it  was  not  unusual,  in  ear- 
ly times,  for  warriors,  after  a  defeat,  to  embark,  careless  of  the  con- 
sequences, in  order  to  escape  the  persecution  of  their  conqueroi<. 
To  remain,  was  certain  death  and  ignominy  ;  to  fly,  was  to  leave  their 
fate  to  chance. 

The  temporary  obstruction  of  the  trade  wind  in  these  seas,  bv 
the  westerly  monsoons,  has  not  been  duly  consichn'cdby  those  wlio 
represent  the  difficulties  as  insurmountable.  At  the  period  of  the 
year  corresponding  with  our  spring  these  gales  connnence,  and  blow 
with  great  violence  during  tlie  rainy  season.  As  they  arise  very 
suddenly,  any  canoes  at  sea  must  have  difliculty  in  escaping  tliciii, 
and  would,  in  all  probability,  be  driven  so  far  as  never  to  be  able  to 
regain  their  native  country,  or  be  drifted  to  islands  upon  whicli 
their  crews  might  be  contented  to  dwell,  in  preference  to  encounter- 
ing farther  risks. 

The  traces  of  inhabitants  upon  almost  all  the  islands  of  the  low 
archipelago,  many  of  whicb  are  at  present  uninhabited,  show  both 
the  frequency  with  which  these  migrations  have  occurred,  and 
the  extent  to  which  they  have  been  made :  some  of  these  isolated 
spots  where  remains  have  been  found,  l*itcairn  Island  for  instance. 
are  400  miles  irom  any  land  whence  iidiabitants  were  likely  lo  be 
derived;  and  the  circumstance  of  their  having  abandoned  that  i>land 


AND  BEERING  S  STRAIT. 


165 


is  a  fair  presumption  that  tlie  people  wlio  landed  there  knew  of  other 
lunds  which  there  was  a  ))rohability  of  their  rcachinfr:,  and  which 
ceitiiinly  could  not  be  the  coast  of  America,  at  least  2000  miles 
against  the  trade-wind. 

"  I  shall  now  bring  together  a  few  facts  connected  with  the  forma- 
tion of  these  islands,  wliich  it  is  hoped  may  be  useful  to  those  per- 
ns who  are  interested  in  the  subject,  observing,  in  exteiniation  of 
me  absence  of  more  detailed  information,  tliat  our  time  did  not  admit 
of  more  than  v.as  actually  essential  to  the  purposes  of  a  correct  de- 
lineation of  their  outline,  and  that  in  general  the  islands  WTre  so  sur- 
rounded by  breakers  that  it  was  dangerous  to  approach  the  shore,  I'n 
the  ship  in  jiarticular,  which  alone  was  calculated  to  obtain  very  deep 
soundings.  To  windward  this  could  not  be  done  of  course,  and  to 
leeward  there  was  not  unfrequcntly  a  heavier  swell  setting  upon  the 
island  tlian  in  other  parts  of  it. 

In  speaking  of  the  coral  islands  hereafter,  my  observations  will 
be  confined  to  the  thirty-two  islands  already  stated  to  have  fallen 
under  our  examination.  The  largest  of  tlicm  was  thirty  miles  in 
diameter,  and  the  smallest  less  than  a  mile :  they  were  of  various 
shapes;  were  all  formed  of  living  coral,  except  Henderson's  Island, 
which  was  partly  surrounded  by  it:  and  they  all  appeared  to  be  in- 
rreasing  their  dimensions  by  the  active  operations  of  the  lithophytes, 
wliich  appeared  to  be  gradually  extending  and  bringing  the  immers- 
ed parts  of  their  structure  to  the  surface. 

Twenty-nine  of  the  number  had  lagoons  in  their  centres,  which 
is  a  proportion  suOiciently  large,  when  coupled  with  information 
snpplied  from  other  parts  oftiie  globe  where  such  formations  abound, 
to  render  it  almost  certain  that  the  remainder  also  had  them  in  the 
early  period  of  their  formation,  and  that  such  is  the  peculiar  struc- 
ture of  the  coral  islands.  And,  indeed,  these  exceptions  can  scarce- 
K  1)0  considered  objections,  as  two  of  them — Thrum  Cap,  which 
is  only  seventeen  hundred  yards  long  by  twelve  hundred  Inoad  ; 
ami  Queen  Charlotte's  Island,  wliich  is  not  more  than  three  quar- 
ters of  a  mile  wide  in  its  broadest  part,  and  less  than  half  a  mile  in 
other  places — are  so  circumstanced,  that,  had  their  lagoons  existed, 
thev  would  have  l)een  filled  in  the  course  of  time  with  the  masses 
of  coral  and  other  substances  which  the  sea  heaps  upon  such 
formations  as  they  rise  above  the  surface;  they  have,  besides, 
long  been  wooded  and  inhabited,  though  deserted  at  the  present 
moment,  both  of  which  would  tend  to  eftiice  the  remains  of  a  la- 
wn of  such  small  dimensions.  The  sea,  however,  prevented  our 
boats  from  landing  upon  either  of  these  islands,  to  ascertain  the  lact 
of  the  early  existence  of  lagoons.  The  other  exception,  llender- 
-on's  Island,  though  of  coral  formation,  appears  to  have  been  raised 
lo  its  present  height  above  the  sea  liy  a  subterraneous  convulsion, 


«¥. 


»■  > 


^ 


I  M 


1()« 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  I'ACIFIC 


[Fd, 


«    if 


i 


and  lias  its  centre  so  incnnibercd  and  overthrown  witli  bnslics  thm 
ue  could  not  detcnnine  wlictlier  it  ever  had  a  lau;oon. 

In  the  above-mentioned  twenty-nine  islands  the  strips  ofdiy  coi;,! 
enclosing  the  lat^ooiis,  divested  of  any  loose  sandy  materials  liciipi.il 
ujion  them,  are  rarely  elevated  more  than  Iwo  feet  above  the  level 
oftlu!  sea;  and  were  it  not  Tor  the  abrupt  descent  of  the  extcmaj 
niarijjin,  which  causes  the  sea  to  break  upon  it,  these  strips  \voii|(| 
be  A\  holly  inundated :  this  heiiiht  of  two  feet  is  continued  ovor  a 
small  i)ortion  only  of  the  width  of  the  island,  which  slo|)es  on  hotji 
sides,  by  an  almost  imperceptible  inclination  to  the  first  ledge,  whore, 
as  1  said  before,  its  descent  is  very  steep  ;  but  this  is  greatly  altered 
])y  circumstances,  and  the  growth  or  age  of  the  island.  Those  pan, 
of  the  strip  which  are  beyond  the  reach  of  the  waves  are  no  l()n;;i.i' 
inhabited  by  the  animals  tiiat  reared  them,  but  have  their  cells  lij. 
led  with  a  hard  calcareous  substance,  and  present  a  brown  riiirsieil 
appearance.  The  ()arts  still  immersed,  or  which  arc  dry  at  lim 
water  only,  are  intesected  by  small  channels,  and  are  so  full  of  hol- 
lows, that  the  tide  as  it  recedes  leaves  small  lakes  of  water  upon 
them.  The  width  of  the  plain  or  strip  of  dead  coral,  in  the  ishuiih 
which  fell  under  our  observation,  in  no  instance  exceeded  li;ill' a 
mile  Irom  the  usual  wash  of  the  sea  to  the  edge  of  the  Ingoon,  iUHJ 
in  general  was  only  about  three  or  four  hundred  yards.  lieyond 
these  limits,  on  the  lagoon  side  in  particular,  where  the  coral  ^va^ 
less  mutilated  by  the  waves,  there  was  frequently  a  ledge,  two  or 
three  feet  underwater  at  high  tide,*  thirty  to  fifty  yards  in  width; 
after  which  the  sides  of  the  island  descended  rapidly,  apparentlvin- 
a  succession  of  inclined  ledges  formed  by  numerous  columns  united 
at  their  capitals,  with  spaces  between  them  in  which  the  souiidiii;; 
lead  descended  several  fathoms.  This  formation,  though  not  clearly 
established  as  applying  to  all  the  islands,  was  so  conspicuous  in 
some  as  to  justify  the  conclusion  with  regard  to  others.  At  Bow 
and  IMatilda  Islands,  I  have  been  tolerably  minute  in  my  desrrip- 
tions  of  them,  and  it  will  be  unnecssary  here  to  vepeat  what  lia- 
])een  said  there  ;  but  these  two,  as  also  Henderson's  Island,  afford 
good  examples  of  what  I  have  been  describing. 

All  these  islands  are  situated  within  the  trade-wind,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  Oeno,  which  is  only  on  the  verge  of  it,  and  follow  one 
general  rule  in  having  their  windward  sides  higher  and  more  perfect 
than  the  others,  and  not  unfretpiently  well  wooded  while  the  oppo- 
site ones  are  only  half-drowned  reefs,  or  are  wlK)lly  under  water. 
At  Gambier  and  iMatilila  Islands  this  inequality  was  very  coiisjiiru- 
ous,  the  weather  side  of  both  being  wooded,  and  of  the  former,  iii- 

♦  At  Bow  Isliiiul,  uii  tlic  sea  side,  it  was  mijic. 


1^-2(5.] 


AND  BEERINC   S   STRAIT. 


167 


liiibitod,  wliile  the  otlier  sides  were  from  twenty  to  tliirly  fcot  uiulei' 
water,  where  they  might  l)e  i)ciceivo(l  equally  narrow,  and  well  de- 
liiiecl.  It  is  on  the  leeward  side  also  that  the  entrances  into  the  hi- 
ijoons  generally  oecnr,  thon<:;Ii  they  are  sometimes  situated  in  aside; 
that  runs  in  the  direction  of  the  w  ind,  as  at  liow  Island  ;  hut  I  do 
not  know  of  any  one  being  to  windward.  The  fact,  if  it  he  found 
to  be  general  with  regard  to  other  coral  islands,  is  curious,  and  is 
not  fully  accounted  for  by  the  continued  operation  of  tlie  tradewind 


upon 


its  side,  as  the  coincidence  would  suggest.     After  the  reef  has 


anivcd  at  the  surface  of  the  sea,  it  is  easy  to  conceive  what  would 
he  the  effect  of  the  trade-wind ;  but  it  does  not  seem  possible  that 
its  iiitUience  could  be  felt  so  far  under  water  as  some  of  the  reefs 
are  situated. 

All  the  points  or  angles  of  these  islands  descend  into  the  sea 
with  less  abruptness  than  the  sides,  aii«!,  1  think,  with  more  regu- 
larity. The  wedge-shaped  space  that  the  meeting  of  the  two  sides 
would  form  in  the  lagoon  is  filled  up  by  the  ledges  there  being  broad- 
er; in  such  places,  as  well  as  in  the  narrow  parts  of  the  lake,  the 
coralline  are  in  greater  numbers,  though,  generally  speaking,  all  the 
jaaioons  are  more  or  less  incumbered  with  them.  They  a|)pear  to 
ariw  to  the  surface  in  the  form  of  a  truncated  cone,  and  then,  their  pro- 
gress being  arrested,  they  work  laterally ,  so  that  if  several  of  them  were 
near  each  other  they  would  unite  and  form  a  shelf  similar  to  that  which 
lias  been  described  round  the  margins  of  some  of  the  lagoons. 

The  depth  of  these  lagoons  is  various:  in  those  which  we  enter- 
ed it  was  from  twenty  to  thirty-eight  fathoms,  but  in  others,  to  which 
ue  liiid  no  access,  by  the  light-blue  colour  of  the  water  it  appeared 
to  be  very  small.  It  is,  however,  tolerably  certain  that  the  coral 
forms  the  bases  of  them,  and  consequently,  unless  tiepositionsofsand 
or  other  substances,  o))noxious  to  the  coral  insects,  take  place,  their 
depth  must  depend  upon  their  age. 

Very  little  offered  itself  to  our  notice,  by  which  we  could  judge 
of  the  rapidity  of  the  growth  of  the  coral,  as  the  islands  which  we 
examined  had  never  been  described  with  the  accuracy  necessary  for 
this  ])urpose;  and  there  were,  consecjuently,  no  means  of  compar- 
ing the  state  in  which  they  were  found  by  us,  with  that  which  wa^ 
presented  to  our  predecessors ;  but  from  the  report  of  the  natives, 
the  coral  bordering  the  volcanic  islands  does  not  increase  very  fast, 
us  we  never  heard  of  any  channels  being  filled  up  ;  but,  on  the  con- 
trary, that  the  passages  through  the  reefs  were  apparently  always 
in  the  same  condition.     The  only  direct  evidence,  however,  which 
1  could  obtain  of  this  fact  was  that  of  the  Dolphin  reef  off  Point 
Venus  in  Otaheite.     This  reef,  when  first  examined  by   Ca})tain 
Wallis  in  1769,  had  "two  fathoms  water  upon  it."     Cook  sounded 
upon  it  a  few  years  afterwards,  and  gave  its  depth  fifteen  feet.     In 


^ 


-,=*      L 


ti- 


l    > 


4,  -vi 


Ifis 


VOYAHi:  TO  Tlir,  PACIFIC 


[Fd. 


U  '': 


\}'    H' 


out-  visit  to  this  i)l;ir(',  \v(!  foiiiul,  upon  tlic  sliallowcst  part  of  it,  tliir- 
teen  feet  and  a  half.  Tlifsc  mcasiu'cmciits,  tlioiit;;!)  at  varianci', 
from  tin;  in(;j;ulrity  of  the  siirfaci;  of  tin;  rouf,  arc  siillicic'iitly  (jx;,(.( 
to  warrant  tin;  conclusion  that  it  has  un(lcri;;ono  no  very  material  al- 
teration (lurinu;  an  interval,  it  should  be  recollected,  of  (ifly-six  years, 
Hut  the  Dolphin,  as  well  as  the  above-mentioned  reefs  and  cjian. 
nels,  are  within  the  inlhience  of  rivers,  which,  in  my  opinion,  ma- 
terially  retard  their  increase,  and  their  growth  must  not  he  taken  as 
a  criterion  of  that  of  the  islands  of  which  I  have  been  speakin;:, 
With  rej;;ard  to  them,  there  is  one  fact  worthy  of  consideration,  and 
upon  which  every  person  must  forin  his  own  judgment.  I  allude 
to  the  remains  of  the  JMatilda,  a  ship  which  a  few  pages  back  is  sta- 
ted to  have  been  cast  away  upon  one  of  these  coral  islanils.  Inmv 
descrij)tion  of  Matilda  Island,  it  is  stated,  that  one  of  the  ancliois  of 
this  ship,  a  ton  in  weight,  a  four-pounder  gun,  her  boilers  and  iron- 
work, are  lying  upon  the  top  of  the  reef,  two  hundred  yards  fioin 
the  present  break  of  the  sea,  and  are  dry  at  low  water.*  The  na- 
ture of  these  articles  and  the  quantity  of  iron  bolts  and  other  mate- 
rials lying  with  them  renders  it  probable  that  the  vessel  went  to  jiic- 
ces  in  that  spot,  for  had  the  s(>a  been  heavy  enough  to  wash  tlu.>  an- 
chor from  deeper  water,  the  boiler  nnist  have  been  carried  much  he 
yond  it ;  and  the  question  is,  whether  the  hull  of  a  vessel  of  the  Ma- 
tilda's tonnage  could  be  washed  upon  a  reef  dry  at  low  water,  and 
be  deposited  two  hundred  yards  within  the  usual  break  of  the  sea. 
The  circmp.stance  of  the  hatches,  staves  of  casks,  and  part  of  the 
vessel,  being  deposited  in  parts  of  the  dry  land  not  far  distant,  and 
scarcely  moi'o  than  four  feet  from  the  present  level  of  the  sea.  of. 
fers  a  presumption  that  the  sea  did  not  rise  more  t'-an  that  liL'i;:lit 
above  its  ordinary  le\'el,  or  it  would  ha\'e  washed  tlie  articles  furth- 
er and  left  them  in  the  lagoon,  whence  they  would  have  been  rai- 
ried  to  sea  by  the  current. 

The  materials  were  not  in  the  least  overgrown  with  coral,  nnr 
had  they  any  basin  left  round  them  by  which  the  progress  of  llic 
coral  could  be  traced  ;  and  yet,  in  other  parts  of  this  reef,  we  no- 
ticed the  chama  gigas  of  seven  or  eight  inches  in  diameter  so  over- 
grown by  it,  that  there  was  only  a  small  aperture  of  two  inches  left 
for  the  extremity  of  the  shell  to  open  and  shut. 

When  the  attention  of  men  of  science  was  called  to  these  singu- 
lar formations  by  the  voyages  of  Captain  Cook,  one  opinion,  anions; 
others  respecting  their  formation  was,  that  they  sprung  from  a  small 
base,  and  extended  themselves  laterally  as  they  grew  perpendicu- 
larly towards  the  surface  of  the  sea  ;  and  that  they  represented  upon 
a  large  scale  the  form  which  is  assumed  by  some  of  the  corallines, 

*  The  rise  of  the  tide  is  about  two  feet. 


^y 


isaf).] 


AND  nEEllINr,  S  STn.VIT. 


11  -\T  t      \ 


MMjl  S.)|l  .l.)UIIO[llll!((H,[l  I!(.MIJ().I(1jJ  ,)S  I!  MSSIII!  SlOJijIllJl^nO) 

-aou9s 
-.1.1(1  n>i  .I3.1R.I p.i  osR  nmii,i||0[|j!p  siiid  jiBiiD.v.ind  \\  siinii  'in.'i 
■]x\tM  i!,iil»  ini?).)  1^  sujoiii  smi  iiusiMtl  on  |!  ;  nMiBUiut.n.v 
•11.)  I  iiihsi.iftiosai  aa.vB  iioi)T!|o.i  im  siqd  iii3M!|.,),n  s|i  '.  uir.\].\ 
^|i  11,11.1  sn|(l  |ii,>!i7\RU  s.iniOMins  S3S  f  inam.ipuojiud  n'-^pN 
•^l.l|m.MI^^I  !"1'  '^aiooi  s.);)iii(isii(»,u!0  s.iiiisil  sf>;)  ;>j)iiui3.i  auKj 

sll|(|  Ijl'VlllllI   3U    H    djR.IJpiOS  I!  pUlMlI*  SSUI.IRI  S3p  .I3Sja\   3p 

.riiniiii  .i|  sii|(l  ipiiou  I!  '. .iii,ii.i  iios  .)p  imi.mIud.s  3pi.ii!_p .jsoiio 
.liililiWO  •.>.i(i.tii.>  pi.'-;  siijd  ijnicis  ,)si!  '.i.niiiuij.i  iio.s  i;iii[os.t.i 
,i<  \\  \n\mh  '  pii.'piicidaa  i^  '.  .luii.uj  subs  .jaipo.iddi!  iiB.vnod 
,111  I!  iiiop  sp3B|d  sop  '  so.K|iiiBi|,)  sop  uoiiiD'tpiil  OH^a  ^w.\^ 
iiPAi;  .\  II  o.iad  uos  op  iioiiBjupMi  |  t;  '  p!ui  op  siijd  oj  hioibs 
•ipj  iii|  nib  xnoi|  xhb  iiiopnioBne.!  !"l)  >>'">^!i  *>'3p  ssd  iiBpiop 
,N  dn  I!  :  soppsiios  somi!  sop  iioiiHinSciui  oisounj  v\  ojipj 
l<,tnl)  isiMB  sud  ]^3\i  00  sn.Mii  '.  .usiBid  suns  ]ib)so.i  .{  p  nbsjiid 
Ki.iii>i,i  suRs  osscu'.j  I  .loiipdt  op  iiRURlI  f>^  1!M^V   P-^^'l 

/  r.iqB  ( I!  0.I113III  "<)  I'l'id  pil)  aiA  9p 

,1.111.1-'  ;)[  ISO  (Old)  '.ipUOSSO.!  S0|  op  0|(p!dRO  ISO  UO  pUBid)  'siBUt 
s1in.5(l   SOO   op    OOURip   R]    OJIUOUI    00  SURp    JIOIRA   llRSSjB.lBd 

]ii|.Mi  iioi.i  10  '.mod  rBs]B|  ni|  OAiicKb  iie.iB  p.nlt  oo  ;  ouir[ 

iiM.uip.ip  nil)  s.iuiod  so|  o.iiuoo  oijub.ibS  ouu  'soai.v  sooubs 

I  "iiKif  xiiB  iiiauiojiiouo.i  o|  suBp  10  's.no.\op  SOS  SIlOl  B  lUOUI 

-,ii|,u'UR  loriis  01  suBp  .lOAiio.ii  lUM.idso  II  'Oijop  uai.1  ^UBOa; 

l\,1U  110  .IOMI.lRS.ip  l.'l  (IR.Vn.lO  \\  :  O.IUIJSOp  Bl  SJOMIO  opiiii 
I  !lil|)ll.ri  1U0H.'AR  I  .IjlUOdo.l  Ol  ]0  .I1I01|1BU1  O]  SlfilM  '.  9UI,MU-I(IS 

Ms.i.ijiiB  SO]  ,iouiRj|uo  mod  nil)  00  luoi  jiBssiunoa  p  iouuois 

"til  |0   0|(psiIOS  '0|1{[0UI  9.I.)PB.1R0   UO  IHBpUOdoO  ^IBAB  || 

■o.ipuo.i  in|  oj  iiid  uo^id) 
j>m<  ip'UHop  11  III)  Mnoipinq  oo  op  .;).°iii,|k  onhsojd  iui),>  iioj  )o 
r.mui-pii  sud  ipiipdso  uo,u  nil)  oiuuioii  uii  oiuuioo  so.ntiB  sop 

(jWjllOll  lip  IjRdllO.IOS  p  III)  IjRlUOS  UO  'ijRUMB  1  UO  puRnbsjBiu 

^jiiuiMl.)  op  10  ooiMi;  op  uioid  luaiRAnoii  o]  lo  'o.i,iiob.ibo  oo 
Iwuioii.'sspiorsjuo.iojjipu!  so'i  'i-ios  o,idojd  uos  b  .iosso-i.tjiiis 
h\)  sii|d  )!B))oui.iod  HI]  ou  inb  ossoisui  op  o.uioi^  iib  .ioii(| 
luiin  1  luOAiios  (iRAop  UO  1 10  'oiusioSo  1110]  op  011|0SqB  UOIJ 

HI^HKll!  Olio,)  OpiOS  .0)IS0.1,)H.1j1    B[    .IBll   .lOIlbiplxO  pBAIlod  OU 
IilMlMIl     ni.ljlll!  |>  MlOO  B  SjOOji   SOS  1H0III0|!0RJ   |0  OSSOO  SUBS 

ll"!l!.in,'s  11     t;'.;   :•»  ii  ii|i  uoM(  0|  oui..)ui  sRd   MisiBidop  piom 

|ll".>     I'M    |l<!   -ir.t  M|i    .)U  MOI.I    -IRUI     .1.11  M0<    o.ipii.n   ni.l|   1I1?,\ 

••n\iin)i  PI 


ICO 

visited 
ion  the 
consid- 
'tliis  bo 
n,nm.';t 
'liicli  is 
Gy  have 
gui.slicd 
uct  iin- 
c  rij;uiG 
liioli  of 
uslancc 
a  niif:;lit 
the  I'or- 
ils,  and 
icir  nat- 
isc  from 
a  desire 
ds,  and 
a  ledge, 
owcr  of 
y  these 

jir  foun- 
)se  from 
8  litho- 
/e-men- 
irger  di- 
that  are 
ntil  the 

lagoons 
il  which 
very  in- 

diinen- 
n  conse- 
on ;  but 
;  and  as 
nie  dry, 

Treat  in- 

of  facts 

t.     I  re- 


if  \  " 


^ 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


1 


/. 


1.0 


I.I 


11.25 


m.  wu 


150 


^   1^    12.0 


^  Uii    12.2 

II 

1.4    Hill  1.6 


■nu 


ME 

I 


Hiotographit; 

Sciences 
Corporation 


;'.  WIST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  USSO 

(716)  872-4S03 


s 


i> 


% 

ft 


I ' 


;«c>. 


our  vi' 
tccn  i 
from  1 
to  wai 
tcratic 
But  tl 
nels,  f 
leriall; 
a  crite 
With  : 
upon  \ 
to  ilio 
ted  to 
descri'i 
this  sh 
work, 
the  pn 
ture  of 
rials  ly: 
ces  in  i 
chor  fr 
yond  II 
tilda's 
be  dep 
The  ci 
vessel, 
scarce!; 
fers  a  | 
abo\'c  i 
er  and 
ried  to 
The 
had  tin 
coral  cc 
liced  th 
grown  I 
for  the  « 
Whei 
lar  form 
others  r 
base,  an 
larlv  toi 
a  large  i 


VOVACE  TO  THE   PACIFIC 


fPtY;. 


.1.:.  .1 


-iiml  I!  punni)  'siuie  sas  .mod  »noA9p  p  luesiciduioa  tn|  snl) 
snjd  ijujiuoiii  as  au  auuosaaj  -anaoa  up  suo|smii!  s9|  sii|i| 
lieinoiJ  »u  aassaiq  pi!i!(|!^U3s  es  p  '  aauBAe.p  iiuri  imM 
ludb'd  uos  idiA  »|  ap  3;JeJuoaap  ijeia  ji  sue  bup-iijinv  y 

'aouaiasuoa  e|  suKp  anltsnf 
9|qnoji  3|)ua)jod  suui^Rip  siuaiou  sa|  p  'aiqcdnoa  is»u(i| 
snb  luaiiiiisie  apensjad  as  uo  'ajjjnos  uo  puenO  saiiiojuGj 
sas  i!e|^>iu  i  uoiieui^cuijj  la  'siajiiaj  sas  a.ioaua  luaiessu^ie 
'sieaji^p  sapidiuas  sap  jed  s^jjdsui  spjoiuaj  sap  's<)||diMD  sn 
-ueisiioajia  sap  '.  ajpeieiii  es  ap  asiiea  e|  iicia  'aj^d  iin,|)  n|j9<i 
TB\  'sjnainop  sa|  sa^no)  ap  auiiiui  sn]d  ei  'jjoa  iichg  ii.nlisiji 
-qn  sap  o)isjaAipe|  suep  uopacjisip  anb|anl)  jaAiioJisujoiii 
np  iiejadsa  n  'sjnof  sas  ap  uoiieAjasuoa  e|  ^  i^jaiuip  iwl 
1\»i  I!. Ill)  uaiq  'spasnoa  sjiiai  iiaiiis  \i  'xpiM  "P  J^]^,\  puuopjn 
luaieAB  mi  '  aatihcne  \n\  au  auuiiod  es  onb  lueuSjcu  '  mii.i 
-apaiu  sa|  p  '  auiad  ap  luauniuas  puojojd  uii  jimI  3!n^\\f. 
Iieia  allies  es  sjoiii  !  aiuepuadopui  aunijoj  aim  'uinu  \ma 
un  '  ludsa^p  dnoaneaq  '  a||aq  p  a|qou  a.mSi|  ami  ijrab  h 
'!?<ill  V  UiLY  3P  -OAPI.!  luepuad  '  aiieif  ua  ajpuaj  .)s  jikhI 
S.inoqw!p:.i,p  ifued  'asso3%i,p  jjcd  'iiAp^  pao]  'iiinwso 

-iiHih'aud  auiifivii:) 


■|>iw.%\i*0 


uauvaad  a\iAn 


•arivxLi 


no 


awwiHo::) 


lore! 


ifSp 


1826.] 


AND  BEGRINn's  STRAIT. 


icd 


In  particular  this  theory  was  entertained  by  Mr.  John  R.  Forstor, 
who  accompanied  Captain  Cook  on  his  second  voyage  and  visited 
several  of  the  coral  islands,  and  was  founded,  no  doubt,  upon  the 
experience  which  he  had  derived,  upon  that  voyage.  But  consid- 
ering the  extent  of  some  of  these  islands,  it  is  evident  that  if  this  bo 
their  form,  the  lithophytes,  the  animals  which  consti-uct  them,  must 
commence  their  operations  at  very  great  depths,  a  fact  which  is 
doubted  by  naturalists.  The  general  opinion  now  is,  that  they  have 
tlicir  foundations  upon  submarine  mountains,  or  upon  extinguished 
volcanoes,  which  are  not  more  than  four  or  five  hundred  feet  im- 
mersed in  the  ocean ;  and  that  their  shape  depends  upon  the  figure 
of  the  base  whence  they  spring.  It  would  be  immaterial  which  of 
these  theories  were  correct,  were  it  not  that  in  the  latter  instance 
the  lagoon  that  is  formed  in  all  the  islands  of  this  description  miglit 
be  occasioned  by  the  shape  of  the  crater  alone,  whereas,  in  the  for- 
.mer,  it  must  result  from  the  propensity  of  the  coral  animals,  and 
this,  if  true,  forms  a  remarkable  and  interesting  feature  in  their  nat- 
ural history.  Mr.  Forster*  thought  this  peculiarity  might  arise  from 
the  instinct  of  the  animacules  forming  the  reefs,  which  from  a  desire 
to  shelter  their  habitation  from  the  impetuosity  of  the  winds,  and 
the  power  and  rage  of  the  ocean,  endeavoured  to  construct  a  ledge, 
within  which  was  a  lagoon  entirely  screened  against  the  power  of 
the  elements,  and  where  a  calm  and  sheltered  place  was  by  these 
means  afibrded  to  the  animals  in  centre  of  the  island. 

Another  reason  why  the  consideration  of  the  nature  of  their  foun- 
dation is  not  immaterial  is,  that  if  the  form  of  the  islands  arose  from 
the  peculiar  shape  of  the  craters,  and  it  be  admitted  that  the  litho- 
phytes are  unable  to  exist  at  greater  depths  than  those  above-men- 
tioned, we  shall  have  examples  of  craters  of  considerably  larger  di- 
mensions and  more  complete  in  their  outline,  than  any  that  are 
known  upon  the  land,  which,  if  true,  is  a  curious  fact.  Until  the 
voyage  of  the  Blossom,  it  was  not  generally  known  that  the  lagoons 
in  these  islands  were  of  such  depths,  or  that  the  wall  of  coral  which 
encircles  them  was  so  narrow  and  perfect,  as  in  almost  every  in- 
stance it  has  been  found ;  nor  that  the  islands  were  of  such  dimen- 
sions, as  they  were  designated  groupes,  or  chains  of  islands,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  wall  being  broken  by  channels  into  the  lagoon ;  but 
on  examination,  the  chain  is  found  continuous  under  water ;  and  as 
in  all  probability  it  will  in  time  reach  the  surface  and  become  dry, 
the  whole  groupe  may  be  considered  as  one  Island. 

The  subject  of  the  formation  of  these  islands  is  one  of  great  in- 
terest, and  will  require  a  numerous  and  careful  collection  of  facts 
before  any  entirely  satisfactory  conclusion  can  be  arrived  at.     I  re- 


•  Foratcr'a  Observations,  4to,  page  150. 

22 


-) 


'        »     L 


^ 


\       V 


'd 


»-, 


tfT. 


170 


VOVACK  TO  TUB  PACIFIC 


[March. 


gret  that  my  time  did  not  permit  mc  to  inquire  more  particulaiU 
into  this  curious  matter ;  but  liaving  to  survey  about  fifty  islands. 
some  of  which  were  of  great  extent,  in  the  space  of  about  four 
moutlis,  I  could  not  accomplish  more  than  was  absolutely  ncccssiuy 
to  the  purposes  of  a  safe  navigation  of  the  Archipelago.  We  wero, 
however,  not  inattentive  to  the  subject,  and  when  opportunity  offer- 
ed, soundings  were  tried  for  at  great  depth,  and  the  descent  of  tlio 
islands  was  repeatedly  ascertained  as  far  as  the  common  lines  would 
extend. 

In  considering  the  subject  of  these  coral  formations,  my  attention 
was  drawn  to  the  singularity  of  the  occurrence  of  openings  in  tliein. 
either  opposite  to,  or  in  the  direction  of  some  stream  of  fresh  wattr 
from  the  mountains ;  and  on  searching  several  charts,  I  find  so  many 
corroborations  of  the  fact,  that  I  have  no  doubt  of  the  tiTilh  of  it: 
as  far  as  my  own  observations  extended,  it  ;vas  always  so.  Tlie 
aversion  of  tlie  lithophytes  to  fresh  water  is  not  singular,  as,  inde- 
pendent of  its  not  being  the  natural  element  of  those  aniruds,  ii 
probably  supplies  no  materials  with  which  they  can  work. 

It  has  been  suggested,  that  these  openings  being  opposite  to  val- 
leys, the  continuation  of  them  under  water  is  the  cause  of  Mie  break 
In  the  reef.  Hut  when  we  consider  the  narrowness  of  these  open- 
ings, compared  with  the  width  of  the  valleys,  and  that  the  latter 
are  already  filled  up  to  the  surface  and  furnished  with  a  smooth 
sandy  beach,  many  obstacles  will  be  found  to  the  confirmation  of 
such  an  opinion  ;  and  it  appears  to  me  more  reasonable  to  attribute 
it  to  the  nature  of  the  element.  The  depth  of  these  channels 
rarely  exceeds  twenty-five  feet,  the  greatest  limit  probably  to  which 
the  influence  of  fresh  water  would  be  felt. 

Hendei-son  Island,  one  of  the  exceptions  mentioned  in  the  early 
part  of  this  discussion,  is  among  the  rare  instances  of  its  kind  in 
these  seas.  It  is  an  island  composed  of  dead  coral,  about  eighty 
feet  above  the  sea,  with  perpendicular  cliffs  nearly  all  the  way 
round  it,  as  if  after  being  formed  in  the  ocean  it  had  been  piishcd 
up  by  a  subterraneous  convulsion.  These  cliffs  are  undermined  at 
the  base,  as  though  the  sea  had  beaten  against  them  considerable 
time  in  their  present  position.  There  are  no  marks  upon  them  in- 
dicative of  the  island  having  risen  by  degrees  ;  but  on  the  contrary, 
a  plain  surface  indicating  its  ascent  by  one  great  effort  of  nature. 
On  examining  the  volcanic  islands  near  Henderson  Island,  no  tra- 
ces appeared  of  the  sea  having  retired ;  and  we  may,  tlierefore, 
presume  it  to  have  risen  as  described.  Its  length  is  five  miles, 
and  breadth  one  mile  :  it  is  nearly  encompassed  by  a  reef  of  living 
coral,  so  wide  that  the  cliffs,  which  were  at  first  subjected  to  the 
whole  force  of  the  waves,  are  now  beyond  the  reach  even  of  their 
spray. 


.# 


1826.] 


AND    BGERINQ  K    STRAIT. 


171 


The  navigation  of  tliis  arcliipelago  was  made  at  a  period  of  the 
year  when  tlie  westerly  monsoon  was  about  to  commence,  and  to- 
waitl  the  end  of  which  it  had  actually  hot^un.and  materially  retard- 
I'll  our  operations  ;  but  previous  to  that  time,  or  ahtnit  the  begin- 
ning of  March,  tlic  trade  was  fresh  and  steady,  blowing  between 
S.  E.  by  E.  and  E.  N.  E.,  which  is  more  northerly  than  the  direc- 
tion of  the  same  trade  l)etween  corresponding  parallels  in  the  At- 
lantic. In  consequence  of  this  opposition  to  the  trade  wind  the 
currents  were  very  variable,  sometimes  setting  to  the  eastward,  and 
others  in  the  opposite  direction ;  and  on  the  whole,  the  body  of 
water  at  that  period  is  not  drifted  to  the  westward  with  the  same 
rapidity  that  it  is  in  other  parts  of  the  ocean  within  the  influence 
of  the  tropical  winds.  The  mean  temperature  for  the  above-men- 
tioned period,  tlie  weight  and  humidity  of  the  atmosphere,  with 
other  meteorological  observations,  are  given  in  the  Appendix  to  the 
1(0  ed.  under  their  respective  heads. 

For  the  information  of  persons  who  may  traverse  this  archipela- 
£50,  it  is  evident  from  the  account  of  Tuwarri,  that  there  is  a  small 
island  situated  about  half  way  between  Byam  Martin  and  Barrow 
Islands,  which  was  not  seen  by  us  ;  and  hence  it  is  possible  that 
there  are  other  low  islands  lying  between  the  tracks  of  the  Blossom 
which  were  not  seen ;  and  ships  ought  in  consequence  to  keep  a 
vigilant  look  out  during  the  night,  or  adopt  the  precaution  of  lying 
to  when  the  weather  is  dark  or  thick.  The  lead  is  no  guide  what- 
ever in  these  seas,  and  the  islands  are  so  low  that  in  the  night  the 
white  line  of  the  surf  or  the  roar  of  the  breakers  would  give  the  first 
warning.  Fallacious  as  the  appearance  of  birds  is  generally  con- 
sidered, and  in  some  parts  of  the  globe  justly  so,  in  this  arcbipela- 
ijo,  when  seen  in  flocks,  it  is  an  almost  ceiiain  indication  of  land. 
They  range  about  forty  miles  from  the  islands,  and  consist  princi- 
pally of  black  and  white  tern.  This,  however,  applies  particularly 
to  uninhabited  islands ;  for  when  they  become  peopled,  the  birds 
generally  qi'it  them,  and  resort  to  those  where  they  are  less  mo- 
lested. 

At  day -light  on  the  15th  the  Island  of  Maitea  was  seen  in  the 
north-west,  and  soon  afterwards  the  mountains  of  Otaheite  appear- 
ed five  minutes  above  the  horizon  at  the  distance  of  ninety  miles, 
from  which  its  height  may  be  roughly  estimated  at  7000  feet.  As 
we  passed  Maitea  we  had  an  opportunity  of  verifying  its  position 
and  ascertaining  its  height  to  be  1432  feet.  Baffling  winds  pre- 
vented us  from  reaching  our  port  until  the  evening  of  the  18th, 
when  at  the  suggestion  of  Captain  Charlton,  his  Majesty's  consul 
for  the  Society  and  Sandwich  Islands,  from  whom  we  had  the 
pleasure  of  receiving  a  visit,  we  anchored  in  the  outer  harbor  of 
Toanoa,  about  four  miles  to  the  westward  of  Matavai  Bay. 


Ik 


*-H 


M' 


.     / 


^i    i 


■a. 


-T- 


# 


175 


VOYAOi:  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


•      [March, 


'it 


il 


I  .  'I 


I 


rl^ 


«;'■* 


CHAPTER  IX. 


Proceedings  at  Otalicitc— Tlio  Sliip  viaitcd  by  the  Queen  Regent,  the  Royal  Family, 
and  several  Chiefs — Short  Account  of  the  former  since  Captain  Cook's  Visii— 
Successful  Isuuc  of  a  Dispute  with  the  Government  respecting  the  Detention  of  a 
trading  Vessel — Visit  to  the  Queen  Regent's  House — Present  Condition  of 
the  Chiefs  and  of  tho  Inhabitants — Superstitions — Trial  of  Natives  for  Tlioft 
of  the  Sliip's  Stores — Tlic  King  visits  the  Ship — Lake  and  Moral  of  Mira- 
paye — Dance  exhibited  by  a  Party  of  New  Zcalaudcrs — Considerations  on  the  Ef- 
fect of  the  lutroductiuu  of  Christiouity, 

The  diversity  of  feature  of  the  romantic' Island  of  Otaheite  form- 
ed a  strong  contrast  with  the  monotonous  appearance  of  the  coral 
formations ;  the  variety  of  hill  and  valley,  and  of  woods  and  rivers 
in  the  one,  after  the  sanicness  of  flat,  sterile,  parched-up  surface  in 
the  other ;  and  the  glassy  smoothness  of  the  harbours  around  us, 
opposed  to  the  turbulent  shores  we  had  recently  quitted,  were  grat- 
ifying in  the  extreme,  and  impressed  us  most  forcibly  with  the  truth 
of  the  observations  of  our  predecessors,  who  have  spoken  of  the 
scenery  of  this  island  in  the  liighest  terms  of  commendation. 

As  I  proposed  to  remain  here  a  few  weeks  to  recruit  the  health 
of  the  crew,  who  were  somewhat  debilitated,  and  to  prepare  tiio 
ship  for  her  voyage  to  the  northward,  she  was  moved  to  an  inner  an- 
chorage opposite  a  small  village  called  Toanoa,  and  there  secured 
by  a  cable  fastened  to  some  trees  on  one  side,  and  by  a  bower  an- 
chor dropped  s^t  the  edge  of  a  coral  reef  on  the  other.  This  reef 
forms  one  side  of  the  harbour ;  which,  though  small,  possesses  seve- 
ral advantages  over  the  more  spacious  one  of  Papiete  generally  re- 
sorted to,  and  of  which  the  superior  freshness  and  salubrity  of  its  at- 
mosphere are  not  the  most  inconsiderable. 

Previous  to  entering  upon  a  relation  of  our  proceedings  with  the 
natives,  it  must  bo  understood  that  the  short  time  v;o  remained,  and 
our  various  occupations  necessarily  rendered  our  intercourse  with 
them  very  hmited  compared  with  that  of  many  of  our  predecessors. 
Still,  it  is  hoped,  the  remarks  which  I  shall  offer  will  be  sufficient 
to  present  a  candid  and  faithful  picture  of  the  existing  state  of  soci- 
ety in  thg  island  ;  a  feature  by  no  means  ununportant  in  tiic  his- 


I  : 


fc 


M 


1826.]  ^  ^^^  BEERINC'S  STRAIT. 

tory  of  the  country,  which  is  otherwise  complete.  To  exceed  this, 
by  (Iwelliiig  upon  the  beauties  of  the  scenery,  the  engaging  manners 
of  the  inhabitants,  their  mythology,  superstitions,  and  legends,  &ic. 
would  be  only  to  recapitulate  what  has  been  detailed  in  the  inter- 
esting voyages  of  Wallis,  Cook,  Vancouver,  Wilson,  Turnbull,  and 
others,  and  very  recently  by  Mr.  Ellis,  in  his  valuable  work  entitled 
"  Polynesian  Researches,"  compiled  after  ten  yea»'s'  residence  in 
the  Pacific,  and  from  the  journals  of  other  missionary  gentlemen  in 
those  parts.  In  this  useful  work  Mr.  Ellis  has  traced  ti)e  history  of 
some  of  the  islands  through  all  their  various  stages  ;  he  has  explain- 
ed the  origin  of  many  of  their  barbarous  customs,  has  elucidated 
many  hitherto  obscure  points  and  has  shown  the  difficulties  which 
opposed  themselves  to  the  introduction  of  Christianity ;  the  hard- 
sliips,  dangers,  and  privations,  which  were  endured  by  himself  and 
his  brethren,  who,  actuated  by  religious  motives,  were  induced  to 
sacrifice  their  own  health,  comfort,  and  worldly  advantages  in  the  at- 
tempt to  ameliorate  the  condition  of  their  fellow-creatures.  But 
complete  as  that  work  is  in  many  respects,  it  is  nevertheless  defi- 
cient in  some  essential  points.  The  author,  with  a  commendable 
feeling  of  charity,  consonant  with  his  profession,  has  by  his  own  ad- 
mission in  the  account  of  the  biography  of  Pomarrec,  glossed  over 
the  failings  and  dwelt  upon  the  better  qualities  of  the  subject  of  his 
memoir ;  and  pursuing  the  same  course  throughout,  he  has  impres- 
sed the  reader  with  a  more  elevated  idea  of  their  moral  condition, 
and  with  a  higher  opinion  of  the  dpgreo  urdviliy^ation  to  which  they 
have  attained,  than  they  deserve,  or,  at  least,  than  the  facts  whicli 
came  under  our  observation  authorize.  There  seems  to  be  no 
doubt  that  he  has  drawn  the  picture,  generally,  as  it  was  presented 
to  him ;  but  he  has  unconsciously  fallen  into  an  error  almost  insep- 
arable from  a  person  of  his  profession,  who,  when  mixing  with  so- 
ciety, finds  it  under  that  restraint  which  respect  for  his  sacred  office 
and  veneration  for  his  character  create.  As  in  our  intercourse  with 
these  people  they  acted  more  from  the  impulse  of  their  natural  feel- 
ings, and  expressed  their  opinions  with  greater  freedom,  we  were 
more  likely  to  obtain  a  correct  knowledge  of  their  real  disposition 
and  habits. 

To  convey  to  the  reader,  who  has  not  perused  the  above-men- 
tioned work,  an  idea  of  the  political  state  of  the  island,  in  which 
there  has  been  a  material  alteration  since  the  period  alluded  to  in 
the  early  voyages,  it  will  be  necessary  to  state  briefly  that  since 
1815  a  code  of  laws  has  been  drawn  up  by  Pomarree  II.,  with  the 
assistance  of  the  missionaries,  which  has  subsequently  been  ex- 
tended from  time  to  time  ;  and  that  since  1825  a  house  of  parlia- 
ment has  been  established,  to  which  representatives  of  the  several 
districts  in  the  island  are  returned  by  popular  election.     The  penal- 


■^-eS.. 


n! 


". '  i 


it  '■ 


w-\ 


lif 


\\) 


v^-r 


i\ 


m 


»^i 


i^  y 


171 


VOTAOE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


^     [March, 


ties  proposed  by  Pomarrce  wcic  very  severe,  but  that  of  death  lias 
as  yet  been  enforced  upon  four  culprits  only. 

Tiie  limit  thus  imposed  on  the  arbitrary  power  of  the  monarch, 
and  the  security  thus  afforded  to  the  liberties  and  properties  of  the 
people,  reflect  credit  upon  the  missionaries,  who  were  very  instru- 
mental in  introducing  these  laws  ;  at  the  same  time,  had  they  been 
better  informed  in  the  history  of  mankind,  they  would  have  been 
less  rigid  upon  particular  points,  and  would  have  more  readily  pro. 
duced  those  benefits  which  they  no  doubt  hoped  would  ensue. 
Magistrates  are  appointed  to  try  cases,  and  conduct  their  judicial 
proceedings  in  open  court,  and  the  police  are  continually  on  the 
alert  both  day  and  night  to  prevent  irregularities,  and  to  suspress 
the  amusements  of  the  people,  wiiom,  from  mistaken  views  of  re- 
ligion, they  wish  to  compel  to  lead  a  life  of  austere  privation. 

We  found  the  consul  in  possession  of  a  small  but  comfortable 
house  opposite  the  anchorage,  which  had  been  hastily  run  up  by  the 
natives  for  his  use  ;  and  took  the  earliest  and  most  favourable  oppor- 
tunity of  impressing  the  importance  of  his  situation  upon  the  inhab- 
itants, by  the  salute  due  to  his  rank.  Besides  the  missionary  gen- 
tlemen, we  found  that  several  other  Europeans  were  residing  incur 
vicinity;  and  as  some  of  these,  as  well  as  the  consul,  had  their  wives 
and  female  relatives  with  them,  we  looked  forward  to  the  pleasure 
of  varying  our  intercourse  with  the  uncouth  natives  by  more  agreea- 
ble society — an  anticipation  which  was  fully  realised  by  their  unre- 
mitthig  attention,  especially  on  the  part  of  the  consul,  whose  house 
was  the  general  resort  of  all  the  officers.  ^ 

Our  arrival  was  immediately  communicated,  through  the  proper 
channel,  to  the  queen  regent,  who  lived  about  a  mile  from  the  an- 
chorage, and  we  received  an  intimation  of  her  intention  of  paying 
an  early  visit  to  the  ship. 

The  arrival  of  a  man-of-war  at  Otaheite  is  still  an  event  of  much 
interest,  and  brings  a  number  of  the  inhabitants  from  the  districts 
adjoining  the  port,  some  in  canoes,  others  on  foot.  The  little  ham- 
let opposite  the  ship  was  almost  daily  crowded  with  strangers,  and 
a  vast  number  of  canoes  skimmed  the  smooth  surface  of  the  harbour, 
or  rather  the  narrow  channel  of  water  which  is  tied  to  the  shores  of 
this  luxuriant  island  by  reefs  of  living  coral.  A  remarkable  excep- 
tion to  thio  scene  of  bustle  occurred  on  the  day  of  our  arrival,  which, 
although  Saturday,  according  to  our  mode  of  reckoning,  was  here 
observed  as  the  Sabbath,  inconsequence  of  the  missionaries  having 
proceeded  round  by  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  having  thereby 
gained  a  day  upon  us.  Next  morning,  however,  a  busy  scene  en- 
sued. Canoes  laden  with  fruit,  vegetables,  and  articles  of  curiosity, 
thronged  as  closely  round  the  ship  as  their  slender  outriggers  would 
allow,  while  such  of  the  inhabitants  as  wanted  these  means  of  ap- 
proaching us  awaited  their  harvest  on  the  shore. 


■A 


1926.] 


AND  BGERINO  S  STRAIT. 


175 


We  soon  found  that  the  frc(|iicnt  intorcoursc  of  Europeans  with 
the  islanders  had  cffcctt'd  an  aUoralion  in  the  natmi!  ol'  the  curren- 
cy, and  that  tliosc  tinselled  ornaments  with  whieh  we  had  provided 
ourselves  were  now  ohjects  of  desire  only  as  presents ;  the  more 
substantial  articles  of  clothing  and  hard  dollars  being  re(|uired  for 
the  purposes  of  the  market,  except,   perhaps,  where  a  ring  or  a 
Jew's  harp  happened  for  the  moment  to  attract  the  attention  ofsonie 
capricious  individual.     However  gratified  we  might  be  to  observe 
this  advance  towards  civilization,  we  experienced  considerable  in- 
convenience from  its  effects  ;  for  on  leaving  the  coastof  Chili,  very 
few  of  us  had  provided  dollars,  under  an  impression  that  they  would 
not  be  necessary  ;  and  those  which  we  had  were  principally  of  the 
republican  coinage,  and  as  useless  in  the  Otaheitan  market  as  they 
would  have  been  in  New  Zealand.     No  dollars  bear  their  full  val- 
ue here,  unless  the  pillars  on  the  reverse  are  clearly  distinguishable, 
and  a  greater  degree  of  value  is  attached  to  such  as  are  bright  than 
to  others.     So  ignorant,  indeed,  were  these  simple   people  of  the 
real  worth  of  the  coin,  that  it  was  not  unusual  for  them  to  offer  two 
that  were  blemished  in  exchange  for  one  that  was  new,  and  in   the 
market  a  yard  of  printed  calico,  a  white  shirt,  new  or  old,  provided 
it  had  not  a  hole  in  it  (even  a  threadbare  shirt  that  is  whole  being 
whimsically  preferred  to  one  which  might  have  been  eaten  through 
by  "^  mouse),  or  a  Spanish  dollar  that  had  two  pillars  upon  it,  were 
in  the  ordinary  way  equivalent  to  a  club,  a  spear,  a  conch  shell,  a 
paddle,  or  a  pig.     Deviations,  of  course,  occurred  from  this  scale, 
founded  on  the  superior  quality  or  size  of  the  article,  and  occasion- 
ally on  the  circumstnces  of  the  vendor,  who,  when  he  anticipated  a  bet- 
ter bargain,  would  accommodate  his  price  to  his  preconceived  opin- 
ion of  the  disposition  of  the  purchaser.      We  were  not  more  con- 
veniently circumstanced  in  regard  to  the  clothing  which  we  could 
offer  in  exchange,  as  we  had  a  long  voyage  before  us,  and  little  to 
spare  without  subjecting  ourselves  to  future  incovenience.      We, 
co.;sequently,  found  ourselves  at  first  surrounded  with  plenty,  with- 
out the  means  of  purchase,  or  obliged  to  part  in  payment  with  what 
we  could  very  ill  spare  :  and  we  incurred  the  additional  risk  of  be- 
ing charged  with  parsimony,  which  the  good  people  of  Otaheite  are 
very  apt  to  attach  to  those  who  may  not  meet  their  ideas  of  gener- 
osity.    "  Taata  paree,"  or  stingy  people,  is  an  epithet  which  they 
always  affix  to  such  persons,  with  a  feeling  of  contempt,  although 
they  are  themselves  equally  open  to  the  charge,  never  offering  a 
present  without  expecting  a  much  larger  one  in  return.     It  is  very 
desirable  to  secure  a  favourable  impression  by  liberaHty  on  your 
first  arrival  at  this  island  ;  it  being  a  constant  custom  with  the  na- 
tives to  mark  those  who  have  any  peculiatity  of  person  or  manner 
l>y  a  nickname,  by  which  alone  the  person  will  be  known  as  long 


'H 


;! 


n 


;>, 


■Iff 


([ 


h1» 


\n 


h 


A 


J 


176 


VOYAOE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[March. 


h" 


ns  any  recollection  of  his  visit  may  remain.  Among  the  many  jn. 
stances  which  occurred  of  this,  was  one  of  a  brother  ofTicer,  who. 
when  wc  (iiiitted  England,  bogged  to  be  remembered  to  his  old  ac- 
(juaintanccs  in  Otaheite ;  but  we  found  they  had  lost  all  memory  of 
his  name,  and  wc  at  last  only  brought  him  to  their  recollection  by 
describing  his  person,  and  mentioning  that  he  had  lost  an  eye  by  a 
wound  received  in  service ;  on  which  they  at  once  exclaimed 
"Tapane  Matapo  !"  or  "Captain  Blind-eye."  We  were  the  more 
anxious  to  avoid  aquiring  a  distinction  of  this  kind  for  ourselves,  as 
a  Russian  ship  had  just  preceded  us,  the  crew  of  which,  accordinz 
to  the  natives,  purchased  every  thing  that  was  offered  without  re- 
gard to  price,  at  whom  they  laughed  heartily,  because  one  of  the 
officers  had  given  a  blue  jacket  in  exchange  for  a  pearl  which  had 
been  ingeniously  made  out  of  an  oyster  shell. 

Some  of  us,  therefore,  had  recourse  to  the  European  resi(lcnt<, 
and  fortunately  obtained  what  cloth  and  specie  we  wanted ;  while 
others  preferred  bartering  such  porrions  of  their  wardrobes  as  thev 
considered  unnecessary  for  their  approaching  change  of  climate. 

On  the  Monday  succeeding  our  arrival,  all  the  stores  of  the  ship 
that  required  removal  were  landed  and  placed  under  a  shed ;  the  ob- 
servatory was  erected  close  to  the  consulate ;  a  rope-walk  was  con- 
structed, and  the  forge  was  put  under  the  shade  of  some  trees.  Thus, 
as  the  shore  was  so  near,  all  the  duties  of  the  ship  were  carried  on 
under  our  own  immediate  superintendence  far  more  expeditiously 
than  the  confined  space  on  board  would  have  allowed.  The  sick 
were  also  landed,  and  provided  with  a  place  better  adapted  to  their 
situation. 

The  state  of  our  provisions  rendered  it  necessary  to  observe  the 
strictest  economy,  for  we  had  been  confined  to  our  own  resources 
during  several  months,  and  Otaheite  afforded  nothing  except  beef 
and  pork,  nor  had  we  any  certainty  of  an  opportunity  of  replenish- 
ing them.  The  bread  fniit  was,  fortunately,  at  this  time  excellent, 
and  was  substituted  for  the  daily  allowance  of  flour,  at  first  in  mod- 
erate proportions,  that  no  bad  effects  might  arise  from  such  a  change 
of  diet ;  but,  latterly,  the  crew  were  allowed  as  much  as  they  could 
consume,  by  which  necessary  piece  of  economy  we  saved  during 
our  stay  about  2,000  pounds  of  flour,  the  most  valuable  articles  of 
sea  store ;  a  measure  which  subsequently  proved  of  the  utmost  im- 
portance to  us.  I  do  not  think  that  this  fruit,  though  very  delicious 
and  more  farinaceous  than  potatoes,  is  a  satisfactory  substitute  for 
bread,  but  it  is  by  no  means  a  bad  one. 

Foreseeing  the  possibility  of  being  obliged  to  cure  our  own  meat, 
we  fortunately  provided  a  quantity  of  salt  for  that  purpose  at  Chili, 
an  article  which  we  found  very  scarce  at  Otaheite ;  and  the  consul 
made  arrangements  for  salting  both  beef  and  pork  for  our  future  use. 


1826.] 


AND    REERING  S    STRAIT. 


171 


which  succeeded  unconiomonly  well ;  and  he  materially  forwarded 
the  object  of  our  voyage  by  exortiii}:;  biinsclf  to  satisfy  all  our  de- 
mands, so  far  as  their  resources  would  admit.  Before  our  arrival  arti- 
cles of  food  were  sufliciently  cheap  ;  but  the  great  demand  which  we 
occasioned  materially  eniianced  their  prices,  and  there  appeared  to 
be  a  great  dislike  lo  competition.  The  resources  of  the  island,  fruit 
excepted,  are  considerably  diminished  from  what  they  formerly  were, 
notwithstanding  the  population  at  one  time  exceeded  its  present 
amount  twenty-fold. 

On  the  day  appointed  for  the  visit  of  the  royal  party,  the  duty 
of  tiie  ship  was  suspended,  and  we  were  kept  in  expectation  of  their 
arrival  until  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  when  I  had  the  honour  of 
receiving  a  note,  couched  in  affectionate  terms,  from  the  queen  re- 
gent, to  whom,  as  well  as  to  her  subjects,  the  loss  of  time  appears 
to  be  immaterial,  stating  her  inability  to  fulfil  her  engagement,  but 
that  she  would  come  on  board  the  following  day.  Scarcely  twenty 
minutes  had  elapsed,  however,  from  the  receipt  of  this  note,  when 
we  were  surprised  by  the  appcaran-.e  of  the  party,  consisting  of  the 
queen  regent,  the  queen  dowager  and  her  youthful  husband,  and 
Utamme  and  his  wife.  Their  dress  was  an  incongruous  mixture  of 
European  and  native  costumes ;  the  two  queens  had  wrappers  of 
native  cloth  wound  loosely  round  their  bodies,  and  on  their  heads 
straw  poked  bonnets,  manufactured  on  the  island,  in  imitation  of 
some  which  had  been  carried  thither  by  European  females,  and 
trimmed  with  block  ribands.  Their  feet  were  left  bare,  in  opposi- 
tion to  the  showy  covering  of  their  heads,  as  if  purposely  to  mark 
the  contrast  between  iho  two  countries  whose  costumes  they  united ; 
and  neatly  executed  blue  lines  formed  an  indelible  net-work  over 
that  portion  of  the  frame  which  in  England  would  have  been  cov- 
ered with  silk  or  cotton.  Utamme,  who,  without  meaning  any  in- 
sinuations to  the  disadvantage  of  the  queen,  appeared  to  be  on  a 
very  familiar  footing  with  her  majesty,  (notwithstanding  he  was  ac- 
companied by  his  own  wife),  was  a  remarkably  tall  and  comely 
man ;  he  wore  a  straw  hat,  and  a  white  shirt,  under  which  he  had 
taken  the  necessary  precaution  of  tying  on  his  native  maro,  and 
was  provided  with  an  umbrella  to  screen  his  complexion  from  the 
sun.  This  is  the  common  costume  of  all  the  chiefs,  to  whom  an 
umbrella  is  now  become  almost  as  indispensable  as  a  shirt ;  but  by 
far  the  greater  part  of  the  rest  of  the  population  are  contented  with 
a  mat  and  a  maro. 

It  may  be  desirable,  in  this  early  period  of  our  communications 
with  the  court  of  Otaheite,  to  state  the  relationship  which  exists  be- 
tween the  reigning  family  and  Otoo,  who  was  king  of  the  larger 
peninsula  at  the  period  of  Captain  Cook's  last  visit. 

Otoo,  after  Cook's  departure,  was  surnamed  Pomarree,  from  a 

23 


i 

J 


',  «] 


fix*'* 


m 


^ 


^«^ 


178 


VOYAfiE  TO  THE   PACIFIC 


[March. 


Iioarsonss  that  siiccccdod  a  sore  throat  wliicli  ho  caught  in  iho  moiin- 
tains,  and  this  aftorwards  l)ecainc  tho  royal  patronyniic.  His  son, 
Poniarroc  II.,  wito  was  a  chihl  at  tliat  period,  succeeded  him  in 
1803,  and  reigned  until  Decendier,  1821,  when,  having  ctrerud 
many  most  imi)ortant  changes  in  the  customs  of  the  island,  and  huv- 
ing,  under  the  zealous  exertions  of  the  missionaries,  converted  tho 
chief  part  of  the  population  to  Christianity,  he  expired  in  a  fit  of 
apoplexy,  accelerated  no  doubt,  by  frequent  excesses.  Of  tiiis  man 
it  may  be  lamented  that  his  exertions  in  the  cause  of  Christianity 
were  not  seconded  in  the  fullest  extent  by  a  rigid  adherence  to  lis 
precepts  in  his  own  person.  He  had  two  wives,  or  rather  o  wifi; 
and  a  mistress,  who  were  sisters,  named  Terre-moe-moe,  and  Po- 
marree  Waheine.  This  woman,  daughter  of  the  King  of  Ulictoa, 
had  been  sent  for  from  Huaheine  to  be  married  to  the  king,  but  be- 
ing accompanied  by  lier  sister,  Terre-moe-moe,  who  was  very  sii- 
perior  in  personal  attractions,  the  latter  captivated  his  majesty  at 
first  sight,  and  received  the  honour  of  his  hand,  while  Poniariio 
Waheine  was  retained  in  the  more  humble  capacity  of  niistrcss. 
Each  sister  bore  a  child,  Terre-moe-moe  giving  birth  to  Poniarreo 
Hi.,  and  the  mistress  presenting  him  with  a  daughter  named  Ainiat- 
ta,  the  present  queen.  Pomarree  HI.  was  only  six  years  old  at  the 
time  we  arrived,  and  the  regency  was  administered  by  his  aunt  Po- 
marree Waheine,  who  I  suppose  was  considered  a  more  fit  person 
to  manage  the  affairs  of  the  state  than  her  sister,  who  had  doubtless 
the  greater  claim  to  the  office.  We  found  that  the  queen  niotlier, 
widow  of  Pomarree  II.,  had  married  a  chief  of  Bora  Bora,  a  fine- 
looking  lad  often  or  eleven  years  of  age,  and  that  Aimatta  was  uni- 
ted to  a  chief  of  Huaheine,  a  short  corpulent  person,  who,  in  con- 
sequence of  his  marriage,  was  allowed  to  bear  the  royal  name  of 
Pomarree,  to  which,  however,  in  allusion  to  his  figure,  and  in  con- 
formity with  their  usual  custom,  they  had  added  the  appropriate 
but  not  very  elegant  surname  of  "  Aboo-rai,"  or  big-belly. 

-Ve  treated  the  royal  party  with  a  few  good  things  which  remain- 
ed, and  they  landed  at  night,  highly  delighted  with  a  display  oflii'; 
works  purposely  prepared  for  them.  Next  morning  the  party  re- 
peated their  visit,  somewhat  better  dressed,  and  accompanied  hy 
Aimatta  and  Aboo-rai.  They  were  followed  by  a  large  double  ca- 
noe and  many  small  single  ones,  bearing  upon  their  gunwales  heaps 
of  fruit  and  roots,  and  four  enormous  hogs,  at  the  imminent  risk  of 
upsetting  the  whole.  The  double  canoe  was  the  *'  last  of  her  race," 
and  had  been  used  for  the  nobler  purposes  of  war,  but,  like  the  in- 
habitants, was  now  devoted  to  humbler  but  more  useful  occupations. 

As  soon  as  the  queen  reached  the  deck  she  tendered  the  present 
to  me  in  the  name  of  the  young  king,  then  at  the  missionary  school 
at  Eimeo,  and  I  returned  the  compliment  that  ..as  due  to  her  loi 


ll\1 


-'^w" 


18-26.] 


AND  UKEUINU*ij  bTIlAIT. 


ni) 


tilis  mark  of  her  attention,  ns  well  as  for  the  munifirenco  of  the  gift. 
As  .soon  as  the  remainder  of  llio  party  were  assenihled,  it  was  pro- 
posed tiiat  we  should  adjourn  to  the  breakfast  prepared  in  the  eab- 
jn ;  but  the  regent  desired  that  every  part  of  the  present  should 
previously  be  set  out  on  a  partieular  part  of  the  deek,  |)igs  and  all, 
ill  order  to  impress  us  more  fully  with  an  idea  of  her  liberality  ;  and 
wlicn  the  whole  was  colleeted,  she  led  mc  to  the  pile,  and  expatia- 
ted on  the  superior  (juali  y  of  the  fruit. 

Having  at  length  assend)led  at  breakfast,  wbieh  by  this  time  was 
cold,  a  difliculty  arose,  1  was  informed,  in  consecpience  of  Aimatla, 
die  king's  sister,  being  unwilling  to  relinrpiish  the  distinetion  she  had 
enjoyed  under  the  fornv.'Tustom  of  the  island,  which  rendered  it 
indecorous  for  some  of  her  countrywomen,  who  were  ol"  the  party, 
to  presume  to  eat  in  the  presence  of  so  exalted  a  personage.  As 
tliese  distinctions,  however,  had  been  reino\ed  upon  the  introduc- 
tion of  Christianity,  there  was  an  evident  appicii  ision  of  giving  of- 
fence to  the  assendded  chiefs  by  such  a  display  oi  ambition  (m  the 
present  occasion.  The  inconvenience  which  it  wa.i  suggested  would 
iitteiid  the  observance  of  the  custom  in  this  "  \stanr",  and  the  oppo- 
.sjlion  afforded  by  the  precepts  of  the  missionaries  to  an_y  such  mode 
rfd'slaying  the  royal  prerogative,  relieved  us  from  our  dilemma. 
A  cloud  of  discontent  hung  for  a  time  on  the  countenance  of  our 
royal  guest,  but  it  was  dispelled  by  the  first  breeze  of  mirth,  and 
the  party  appeared  to  enjoy  greatly  the  remainder  of  their  visit. 

It  is  by  no  means  surprising  that  the  chiefs  should  wish  to  adhere 
to  such  of  their  old  customs  as  constituted  the  principal  if  not  the 
only  distinction  between  them  and  their  vassals.  Should  ihey  be 
deprived  of  these,  and  should  the  superstitions,  by  means  of  which 
lliey  awed  the  lower  classes  of  the  community,  be  brought  into  con- 
tempt, they  would  be  left  with  no  other  superiority  than  that  con- 
ferred by  bodily  strength  ;  for  in  education,  and  not  unfrequently 
even  in  wealth,  their  advantages  were  very  limited.  Pomarree,  in 
framing  his  laws  to  meet  the  new  circumstances  of  his  subjects, 
seems  to  have  been  too  zealous  in  pressing  his  reforms  in  this  as 
well  as  in  many  other  points.  It  would  be  ridiculous  to  advocat*^ 
the  perpetuation  of  customs  fit  only  for  the  darkest  ages  of  barbar- 
ism ;  but  it  might  probably  not  be  unwise  to  retain  in  the  earlier 
progress  towards  improvement  such  as  are  least  objectionable  ;  par- 
ticularly in  a  country  like  Otaheite,  where  their  observance  had 
been  enforced  with  the  greatest  rigour.  The  effect  produced  by 
the  abolition  of  that  most  detestable  of  all  their  pagan  rites,  human 
sacrifice,  is  noticed  by  Mr.  Ellis  in  his  Polynesian  Researches,  to 
have  endangered  the  royal  authority.* 

♦He  sayB  (vol.  ii.  p.  378,)  that  "  many,  free  from  the  restraint  it  (human  sacrifice) 
had  imposed,  seemed  to  refuse  almost  all  lawful  obedience  and  rightful  support  to 
the  king." 


'i 


» 


f^^mmifm 


180 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Mnnh, 


In  the  course  of  the  day  several  cliiefs  came  on  board,  dressed 
in  white  shirts  and  straw  hats  ;  and  were  all  remarkable  for  their 
extraordinary  height  and  noble  appearance.  Whether  this  sujicrior- 
ity  of  stature  is  the  result  of  the  better  quality  of  their  food,  or 
wi; 'ether,  by  the  commission  of  infanticide,  their  parents  have  pre- 
served  only  the  largest  or  most  healthy  children,  and  bestowed  upon 
them  a  more  careful  nursing  than  may  have  fallen  to  the  lot  of  their 
vassals,  1  cannot  say,  but  it  is  beyond  a  doubt  that  the  advantage 
which  their  chiefs  enjoyed  in  this  respect  had  a  strong  influence  on 
the  minds  of  the  simple  Otaheitans,  who  Avere  with  difficulty  con- 
vinced that  the  size  of  the  purser  (who  was  the  largest  man  in  the 
ship)  did  not  confer  on  him  the  best  claim  to  be  the  Ratira-rai,  or 
captain  of  the  Blossom. 

The  arrival  of  the  chiefs  was  an  event  very  favourable  to  the 
wishes  of  the  consul,  who  availed  himself  of  the  opportunity  it  af- 
forded of  urging,  with  some  prospect  of  success,  the  repeal  of  an  or- 
der issued  by  the  regent,  which  had  occasioned  serious  mischief  to 
one  of  our  merchant  ships  ;  and  which,  if  not  speedily  rescinded, 
must  have  endangered  not  only  the  property,  but  even  the  lives  of 
individuals  trading  to  these  islands.  The  consul  had  already  ap- 
pealed against  the  obnoxious  decree,  but  it  was  at  a  time  when  he  was 
not  supported  by  tiie  presence  of  a  king's  ship  ;  and  the  short-sighted 
policy  of  the  regent  did  not  anticipate  the  probability  of  the  consul  soon 
receiving  such  a  strong  support  to  his  negotiation.  She  had  ventured, 
therefore,  to  dismiss  his  remonstrance,  intimating  that  she  was  fully 
aware  of  his  defenceless  situation.  The  case  under  discussion  was 
as  follows. 

The  queen,  seeing  the  estimation  in  which  the  pearl  oyster-shells 
were  held  by  Europeans,  imagined  that  by  levying  a  duty  on  them 
she  would  greatly  increase  her  revenue.  Orders  were  accordingly 
issued  to  all  the  tributary  islands  to  seize  every  vessel  trading  in 
shells,  which  had  not  previously  obtained  the  royal  licence  to  pro- 
cure them.  The  Chain  Islanders,  who,  from  their  enterprising  and 
maurauding  habits,  may  be  considered  the  buccaneers  of  the  east- 
em  South  Sea  archipelago,  were  too  happy  to  find  themselves  for- 
tified with  a  plea  for  a  proceeding  of  this  nature,  and  instantly  sent 
one  of  their  double  canoes  to  Tiokea,  where  they  found  the  Drag- 
on, an  English  brig,  taking  in  pearl  shells.  These  people  behaved 
in  a  very  friendly  manner  to  her  crew,  and  allowed  her  quietly  to 
take  her  cargo  on  board ;  but  the  Dragon  was  no  sooner  ready  to 
put  to  sea,  than  several  of  tlie  islanders  went  on  board  with  the  os- 
tensible purpose  of  taking  leave,  but  suddenly  possessing  themselves 
of  the  vessel,  overpowering  the  master  and  crew,  binding  their  hands, 
and  sending  them  on  shore  as  prisoners.  A  general  plunder  of  the 
vessel  ensued,  in  which  every  thing  moveable  was  carried  away 


1826.] 


AND  BEERING  S  STRAIT. 


181 


ission  was 


Tlie  natives,  after  this  atrocious  act,  went  to  church  to  return  thanks 
for  their  victory ;  and  to  render  their  prayers  more  acceptahle,  remov- 
ed the  bell  of  the  ship  to  their  place  of  worship.  During  several  days 
they  detained  the  master  bound  hand  and  foot,  and  debated  wheth- 
er he  should  be  put  to  death  and  eaten ;  a  fate  which  we  were  in- 
formed he  would  in  all  probability  have  encountered  but  for  the  in- 
terference of  one  of  their  chiefs,  for  the  Tiokeans  are  still  repu- 
ted to  be  cannibals,  notwithstanding  they  have  embraced  the  christian 
religion.  The  crew,  more  fortunate  than  their  commander,  very 
soon  obtained  their  release,  upon  condition  of  fitting  the  brig  for  sea, 
tlie  natives  imagining  they  could  navigate  her  themselves.  The  ves- 
sel being  ready,  the  master,  under  some  pretext,  obtained  permis- 
sion to  go  on  board,  and  having  speedily  established  an  understand- 
ing with  his  crew,  he  cut  the  cables  and  carried  her  out  to  sea. 

The  stolen  property  was  of  course  never  recovered,  and  the 
vessel  was  so  plundered  of  her  stores  that  the  object  of  her  voyage 
was  lost.  When  she  reached  Otaheite  the  master  stated  the  case 
to  the  consul,  whose  representation  of  the  outrage  to  the  queen  was, 
as  has  already  been  said,  treated  with  derision.  The  consul  availed 
liiniself  of  the  present  occasion  to  obtain  restitution  of  the  stolen 
property,  or  remuneration  for  the  owners,  and  a  repeal  of  the  ob- 
jetionable  order,  the  execution  of  which  it  is  evident  could  not  be  safe- 
ly confided  to  a  barbarous  people,  at  all  times  too  prone  to  appro- 
priate to  themselves  whatever  might  fall  within  their  reach.  Her 
majesty  was  exceeding  unwilling  to  abandon  this  source  of  revenue, 
and  strenuously  urged  her  indubitable  right  to  levy  taxes  within  her 
own  dominions,  maintaining  her  arguments  with  considerable  shrewd- 
ness, appealing  finally  to  the  chiefs.  Finding  them,  however,  dis- 
posed to  accede  to  the  demands  of  the  consul,  she  burst  into  tears  ; 
but  at  length  consented,  by  their  advice,  to  send  a  circular  to  the  Pa- 
moutas,  or  Low  Islands,  directing  that  no  molestation  should  be  of- 
fered to  any  vessels  trading  in  shells,  or  touching  at  those  islands 
for  refreshment ;  but  on  the  contrary  that  all  necessary  aid  and  as- 
sistance should  be  afforded  to  them ;  and  that  in  the  event  of  any 
dispute,  the  matter  should  be  referred  to  the  authorities  at  Otaheite. 

This  concession  destroyed  the  complacency  of  the  queen  for 
some  time,  but  she  recovered  her  spirits  in  the  cojrse  of  the  after- 
noon, and  amused  herself  much  by  listening  to  the  drum,  which  she 
begged  might  be  permitted  to  play  on  the  upper  deck.  As  this 
species  of  music,  however,  was  not  very  agreeable  in  the  confined 
space  of  a  ship,  it  was  proposed  that  the  instrument  should  be  re- 
moved t.  the  shade  of  some  tall  trees  on  the  shore,  whither  the 
whole  party  repaired ;  the  drummer  continuing  his  performance, 
and  marching  to  and  fro,  until  he  became  heartily  tired,  to  the  infi- 


f:: 


¥» 


iM 


^^ 


■■»p» 


m"^m 


182 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[March, 


I)    ' 


w"\ . 


nite  delight  of  the  assemhled  populace,  who  croVi  ded  round,  and 
even  scaled  the  loftiest  trees,  to  obtain  a  glimpse  of  him. 

A  few  days  after  this  visit  the  queens  came  again  to  Toanoa,  and 
I  invited  them  into  the  tent  we  had  pitched  on  shore,  with  the  view 
of  making  a  present  to  each  of  them,  and  of  confiding  to  their  care 
the  presents  intended  for  Pomarree  Aboo-rai,  Aimatta,  and  Utam- 
me,  who  were  absent.  The  present  for  the  king,  which  consisted 
of  a  handsome  double-barrelled  gun  inlaid  with  silver,  with  some 
broad  cloth  and  other  valuables,  I  reserved  until  I  should  have  an 
opportunity  of  seeing  him.  The  other  parcels  were  apportioned 
acceding  to  what  I  considered  to  be  the  rank  of  the  parties,  and  the 
name  of  each  person  was  placed  on  his  destined  share.  The  re- 
gent, however,  opened  them  all,  and  very  unceremoniously  trans- 
ferred a  portion  of  each  to  her  own,  and  huddling  the  whole  togeth- 
er, she  sent  them  off  to  her  canoe.  Then  finishing  half  a  bottle  of 
brandy  between  them,  the  regent  and  her  sister  despatched  tlie  re- 
mainder of  the  spirits  after  the  presents,  and  took  their  leave. 

In  the  course  of  the  day  we  received  an  invitation  to  pass  the 
evening  at  the  regent's  house  at  Papiete,  a  very  romantic  spot  about 
a  mile  from  the  place  where  the  ship  was  anchored.  After  a  de- 
lightful walk  along  the  shore  in  the  refreshing  coolness  which  suc- 
ceeds a  tropical  day,  we  arrived  at  the  royal  residence,  which  was 
in  one  of  those  spacious  sheds  frequently  mentioned  by  my  prede- 
cessors. It  was  about  a  hundred  feet  in  length,  by  thirty-five  in 
width,  of  an  oval  form,  with  a  thatched  roof,  supported  upon  small 
poles  placed  close  together.  By  ^he  light  of  the  moon  we  dis- 
covered a  small  door  about  mid-way  between  the  extremities,  whieli 
we  entered,  and  immediately  found  ourselves  in  darkness.  On 
grouping  our  way,  our  shins  came  in  contact  with  several  bamboo 
partitions  dividing  the  area  into  various  compartments.  In  one  of 
these  we  distinguished  by  the  rays  of  moonlight  which  fell  through 
the  interstices  of  the  d  veiling,  that  it  was  occupied  by  touioiis,  or 
common  people,  of  hot  i  sexes.  We,  therefore,  turned  to  the  op- 
posite direction,  which  soon  led  us  to  the  royal  saloon,  whicli  we 
found  illuminated  by  a  yellow  and  melancholy  light  proceeding 
from  a  rag  hung  over  the  edge  of  a  broken  cocoa-nut  shell  half  fil- 
led with  oil ;  The  apartment,  to  our  surprise,  was  quite  still ;  but 
we  wore  soon  greeted  with  the  salutation  of  "  Euranna-poy"  (How 
do  you  do  ?)  from  a  number  of  atheletic  men,  her  majesty's  favour- 
ites, as  they  awoke  in  succession  from  their  nap. 

We  at  length  discovered  the  queen  regent  extended  upon  a  mat 
spread  upon  dried  grass,  with  which  the  whole  apartment  was  strew- 
ed ;  around  her,  upon  mats  also,  were  several  interesting  young  fe- 
males ;  and  occupying  a  wooden  bedstead,  placed  against  a  sliglit 
partition,  which  contained  numerous  cases  filled  with  cocoa-nut  oil, 


1826.] 


AND  BEERINo's  STRAIT, 


183 


we  found  Pomarree  Aboo-rai,  and  Aimatta.  Our  entry  threw  this 
numerous  party  into  a  state  of  activity  and  bustle,  some  to  procure 
a  second  light,  and  some  to  accommodate  us  with  mats  ;  while  Po- 
marree, drawing  his  tappa  round  him,  led  forward  his  princess, 
Aimatta,  and  extended  his  politeness  much  beyond  what  we  could 
possibly  have  anticipated  from  so  young  a  husband. 

Fearful  that  we  might  have  misunderstood  the  morning  invitation, 
or  that  we  were  later  than  we  had  been  expected,  we  began  to  of- 
fer apologies,  and  to  excuse  ourselves  for  breaking  in  upon  the  re- 
pose of  the  party ;  but  the  indisposition  of  the  queen  appeared  to 
be  the  cause,  as  she  was  suffering  from  repletion,  and,  forgetting  all 
about  the  invitation,  had  retired  earlier  than  usual.  She  had  scarce- 
ly had  sufficient  rest  when  we  arrived  to  engage  in  any  amusement 
herself,  but  gave  us  a  friendly  reception,  and  desired  that  a  dance 
might  be  performed  for  our  entertainment.  This  was  an  indulgence 
we  hardly  expected,  such  performances  being  prohibited  by  law, 
under  severe  penalties,  both  against  the  performers,  and  upon  those 
who  should  attend  such  exhibitions ;  and  for  the  same  reason  it  was 
necessary  that  it  should  be  executed  quietly,  and  that  the  vivo,  or 
reed  pipe,  should  be  played  in  an  under  tone,  that  it  might  not  reach 
the  ears  of  an  aava,  or  policeman,  who  was  parading  the  beach,  in 
a  soldier's  jacket,  with  a  rusty  sword  ;  for  even  the  use  of  this  me- 
lodious little  instrument,  the  delight  of  the  natives,  from  whose  na- 
ture the  dance  and  the  pipe  are  inseparable,  is  now  strictly  prohib- 
ited. None  of  us  had  witnessed  the  dances  of  these  people  before 
they  were  restrained  by  law ;  but  in  that  which  was  exhibited  on 
the  present  occasion,  there  was  nothing  at  which  any  unprejudiced 
person  could  take  offence ;  and  it  confirmed  the  opinion  I  had  often 
heard  expressed,  that  Pomarree,  or  whoever  framed  the  laws,  would 
have  more  effectually  attained  bis  object  had  these  amusements  been 
restricted  within  proper  limits,  rather  than  entirely  suppressed.  To 
some  of  us,  who  had  formed  our  opinion  of  the  native  dance  of  this 
island  from  the  fascinating  representation  of  it  by  Mr.  Webber,  who 
accompanied  Captain  Cook,  that  which  we  saw  greatly  disappointed 
our  expectation,  and  we  turned  from  it  to  listen  to  the  simple  aii's 
of  the  females  about  the  queen,  who  sang  very  well,  and  were  ready 
improvisat rices,  adapting  Uie  words  of  the  song  to  the  particular 
case  of  each  individual. 

While  these  amusements  engaged  the  attention  of  our  party,  scenes 
of  a  very  different  nature  were  passing  in  the  same  apartment,  which 
must  have  convinced  the  greatest  sceptic  of  the  thoroughly  immoral 
condition  of  the  people  ;  and  if  he  reflected  that  he  was  in  the  royal 
residence,  and  in  the  presence  of  the  individual  at  the  head  of  both 
church  and  state,  he  would  have  either  concluded,  as  Turnbull  did 
many  years  before,  vhat  their  interronrco  with  Europeans  had  tend- 


•m^-iH 


k-    s 


,) 


1 


184 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[March, 


I 


If 

1^ 


ed  to  debase  rather  than  to  exalt  their  condition,  or  that  they  were 
wilfully  violating  and  deriding  laws  which  they  considered  ridicu- 
lously severe. 

In  our  intercourse  with  the  chiefs  and  middle  classes  of  society, 
the  impression  left  by  this  night's  entertainment  was  in  some  meas- 
ure removed ;  and  especially  as  regards  the  former,  who  are,  on  the 
whole,  a  well-behaved  class  of  men,  though  they  are  much  addicted 
to  intemperance.  A  party  of  them,  among  which  were  Utammee 
and  Pa-why,  came  on  board  one  day,  and  having  received  a  present 
of  a  bottle  of  rum  from  the  cabin,  went  to  pay  a  visit  to  the  gun- 
room officers,  who  politely  offered  them  a  glass  of  wine,  but  evin- 
cing some  reluctance  to  this  beverage,  rum  was  placed  upon  the 
table,  upon  which  the  chiefs  manifested  their  approbation,  and 
Utammee  seizing  the  bottle  requested  it  as  a  present,  and  then 
emptying  their  glasses,  which  had  been  filled  with  wine,  to  the  toast 
of  Eurannapoy,  they  bowed  politely  and  withdrew.  This  partiahtv 
for  spirits  seems  to  l3e  an  incorrigible  vice,  and  it  is  a  fortunate  cir- 
cumstance  that  their  means  of  indulging  in  it  are  so  very  limited, 
Some  of  them  have  materially  benefited  by  the  residence  of  the 
missionaries,  and,  in  particular,  two  who  resided  at  Matavai,  about 
four  miles  to  the  eastward  of  our  anchorage.  They  piqued  them- 
selves on  their  imitation  of  European  customs,  and  had  neat  little 
cottages,  built  after  the  European  style,  with  whitewashed  fronts, 
which,  peeping  through  some  evergreen  foliage,  had  a  most  agreea- 
ble effect  and  being  the  only  cottages  of  this  description  upon  the 
island  in  the  possession  of  the  natives,  were  the  pride  of  their  owners. 
The  apartments  contained  chests,  chairs^  a  table,  and  a  knife  and 
fo'-k  for  a  guest ;  and  nothing  gave  these  chiefs  greater  pleasure  than 
the  company  of  some  of  the  officers  of  the  ship.  Each  of  tliem 
could  read  and  write  their  own  language,  and  the  elder.  Pa-why. 
had,  I  believe,  been  useful  to  the  missionaries  in  translating  some 
part  of  the  Scriptures.  He  was  the  more  learned  of  the  two  bioth- 
ers;  but  Hetotte  was  the  more  esteemed,  and  was  an  exception  to 
almost  all  his  countrymen  in  not  asking  for  what  was  shown  to  him. 
His  inquiries  concerning  the  use  of  every  thing  which  offered  itseh" 
to  his  notice,  on  coming  c  board  tlie  ship,  surprised  and  interested 
us ;  while  his  amiable  disposition  and  engaging  manners  won  him 
the  esteem  of  almost  all  on  board.  An  anecdote  illustrative  ofliis 
character  will  be  read  with  interest.  The  missionaries  had  for  sev- 
eral years  endeavoured  to  produce  a  change  of  religion  in  the  island, 
by  explaining  to  the  natives  the  fallacy  of  their  belief,  and  assuring 
them  that  the  threats  of  their  deities  were  absurd.  Hetotte  at 
length  determined  to  put  their  assertions  to  the  test,  by  a  breach  of  one 
of  the  strictest  laws  of  his  religion,  and  resolved  either  to  die  under 
the  experiment  or  embrace  the  new  faith. 


wmmmmmmm 


[March, 

hat  they  were 
idered  ridicu- 
les of  society, 
in  some  meas- 
irho  are,  on  tlie 
much  addicted 
'ere  Utammee 
eived  a  present 
it  to  the  gun- 
r'me,  but  evin- 
iced  upon  the 
jrobation,  and 
sent,  and  then 
Ine,  to  the  toast 
This  partiality 
a  fortunate  cir- 
3  very  hmited. 
jsidence  of  the 
Matavai,  about 
'  piqued  thera- 
had  neat  little 
Bwashed  fronts, 
I  a  most  agreea- 
ption  upon  the 
;  of  tlieir  owners. 
nd  a  knife  and 
er  pleasure  than 
Each  of  them 
elder,  Pa-why. 
ranslating  some 
the  two  bioth- 
in  exception  to 
shown  to  him. 
ch  offered  itself 
and  interesteil 
anners  won  him 
ustrative  of  his 
ies  had  for  Sev- 
an in  the  island, 
ef,  and  assuring 
•d.     Hetotte  at 
a  breach  of  one 
ler  to  die  under 


1826.] 


AND  BEERINg's  STRAIT. 


185 


?■ 


A  custom  prevailed  of  offering  pigs  to  the  deity,  which  were 
brought  to  the  moral  and  placed  upon  whattas,  or  fantus,  for  the  pur- 
pose. From  that  moment  they  were  considered  sacred,  and  if  after- 
wards any  human  being,  the  priests  excepted, dared  to  commit  so  great 
a  sacrilege  as  to  partake  of  the  offering,  it  was  supposed  that  the  of- 
fended god  would  punish  the  crime  with  instant  death.  Hetotte 
thought  a  breach  of  this  law  would  be  a  fair  criterion  of  the  power 
of  the  deity,  and  accordingly  stole  some  of  the  consecrated  meat, 
and  retired  with  it  to  a  solitary  part  of  the  wood  to  eat  it,  and  per- 
haps to  die.  As  he  was  partaking  of  the  food,  he  expected  at  each 
mouthful  to  experience  the  vengeance  he  was  provoking ;  but  hav- 
ing waited  a  considerable  time  in  the  wood  in  awful  suspense,  and 
finding  himself  rather  refreshed,  than  otherwise  by  his  meal,  he 
quitted  the  retreat  and  went  quietly  home.  For  several  days  he 
kept  his  secret,  but  finding  no  bad  effects  from  his  transgression  he 
disclosed  it  to  every  one,  renounced  his  religion,  and  embraced 
Christianity.  Such  instances  of  resolution  and  good  sense,  though 
they  have  been  practised  before,  are  extremely  rare  in  Otabeite, 
and  in  this  sketch  of  two  brothers  a  highly  favourable  picture  is 
presented  of  the  class  to  which  they  belong ;  though  there  are  oth- 
ers, particularly  Taate,  the  first  and  most  powerful  chief  upon  the 
island,  who  are  equally  deserving  of  favourable  notice. 

Of  the  rest  of  the  population,  though  their  external  deportment 
is  certainly  more  guarded  than  formerly,  in  consequence  of  the  se- 
vere penalties  which  their  new  laws  attach  to  a  breach  of  decorum, 
yet  their  morals  have  in  reality  undergone  as  little  change  as  their 
costume.  Notwithstanding  all  the  restrictions  imposed,  I  do  not 
believe  that  I  should  exceed  the  bounds  of  truth  in  saying,  that,  if 
opportunity  offered,  there  is  no  favour  which  might  not  be  obtained 
from  the  females  of  Otaheite  for  the  trifling  considerationof  a  Jew's 
harp,  a  ring,  or  some  other  bauble. 

Their  dwellings,  with  the  exception  of  doors  to  some,  and  occa- 
sionally latches  and  locks,  are  precisely  what  they  were  when  the 
island  was  first  discovered.  The  floor  is  always  strewed  with  grass, 
which  they  are  not  at  all  careful  to  preserve  clean  or  dry,  and  it 
consequently  becomes  extremely  filthy  and  disagreeable ;  and  when 
it  can  be  no  longer  endured,  it  is  replaced  by  fresh  material.  Their 
household  furniture  has  been  increased  by  the  introduction  of  vari- 
ous European  articles ;  and  a  chest,  or  occasionally  a  bedstead,  may 
be  seen  occupying  the  comer  of  an  apartment ;  but  these  are  not 
yet  in  great  demand,  the  natives  having  little  to  put  into  the  former, 
and  esteeming  such  of  the  latter  as  have  found  their  way  to  Otahe- 
ite scarcely  more  desirable  places  of  repose  than  their  mats  spread 
upon  straw.     The  extreme  mildness  of  the  climate,  however,  suf- 

24 


p 


m\ 
m 


|>^U1 


18G 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Mnrch. 


r* 


If  I 


ficicntly  accounts  for  the  contented  state  of  the  population  in  this 
respect. 

Tlieir  occupations  are  few,  and  in  general  only  such  as  are  nercs. 
sary  to  existence  or  to  the  gratification  of  vanity.     In  our  rcpeimd 
visits  to  their  huts  we  found  them  engaged  either  in  preparing  their 
meals,  plaiting  straw-bonnets,  stringing  the  smallest  kinds  of  hoji  |, 
to  make  rings  for  the  fingers  or  the  ears,  playing  the  Jew's  luirp.or 
lolling  about  upon  their  mats;  the  princess  excepted,  whoso  irroat- 
est  amusement  consisted  in  turning  a  hand-organ.     The  indoh.nci. 
of  these  people  has  ever  been  notorious,  and  has  been  a  greatoi  lim 
to  the  success  of  the  missionaries  tlian  their  previous  faith.      Thf 
fate  of  the  experiment  on  the  cotton  in  Eimeo  is  an  exemi)lilir;ui(.ii 
of  this.     It  is  well  known  that  the  land  was  cleared,  and  the  cotton 
planted  and  grown,  but  the  perseverance  to  clean  the  crop,  to  maki 
it  marketable,  was  wanting ;  and  finding  no  sale  for  the  articles  in 
its  rude  state,  they  forbore  to  cultivate  it  the  next  year.      A  small 
portion,  however,  was  i>icked  by  way  of  experiment :  the  mission- 
aries taught  the  girls  to  spin,  and  even  furnished  them  with  a  loom. 
and  instructed  them  in  the  use  of  it,  upon  condition  that  they  sboiild 
weave  fifty  yards  of  cloth  for  the  king,  and  fifty  for  themsehef;. 
The  novelty  of  the  employment  at  first  brought  many  pupils,  bm 
they  would  not  persevere,  and  not  one  was  found  who  fulfilled  the 
engagement.     The  proportion  due  to  the  king  was  wove,  but  not 
as  much  more  as  would  make  a  single  gown,  and  the  pupils,  after  a 
dispute  regarding  their  wages,  abandoned  the  employment  about  th;j 
period  of  our  arrival.     "  Why  should  we  work  ?"  they  would  sny  to 
us;  "have  we  not  as  much  bread-fruit,  cocoa-nuts,  bananas,  vce- 
apples,  &,c.  as  we  can  eat  ?     It  is  very  good  for  you  to  work  who 
require  fine  clothes  and  fine  ships;  but,"  looking  around  their  apart- 
ment with  evident  satisfaction,  "  we  are  contented  with  what  wc 
possess."     And  in  disposition  they  certainly  appeared  to  be  so;  for 
a  more  lively,  goodnatured,  inoffensive  people  it  is  impossible  to 
conceive.     The  only  interruption  to  their  general  serenity  appear? 
to  be  occasioned  by  the  check  which  the  laws  have  placed  upon 
their  amusements  ;  a  feeling  which  became  very  apparent  the  mo- 
ment the  missionaries  were  mentioned.       They  have  in  goncral. 
however,  a  great  respect  for  those  gentlemen,  and  are  fearful  of  the 
consequences  of  offending  them. 

Some  of  the  natives  had  an  indistinct  notion  of  this  philantliropic 
society,  and  were  not  a  little  surprised  at  being  told  that  we  were 
not  missionaries  ;  and  in  answer  to  their  inquiry  "  King  George  mis- 
sionary ?"  their  astonishment  was  greatly  increased  at  being  inform- 
ed that  he  was  not ;  for  as  they  had  an  idea  that  King  George  \va> 
at  the  head  of  the  missionary  society,  they  naturally  imagined  tliat 
his  officers  must  of  course  also  belong  to  it.      This  misconception 


ma.] 


AND  OEUIUNO  S  STRAIT. 


187 


had  been  so  generally  entertained  before  our  arrival,  tbat  we  were 
told  tlicy  had  threatened  to  complain  to  the  society  of  the  master 
ofii  merchant  ship  who  had  by  some  means  incurred  their  displeasure. 

The  Otaheitans  were  always  a  very  superstitious  people,  and 
notwithstanding  their  change  of  religion,  still  entertain  most  absurd 
notions  on  several  jjoints.  Though  they  have  ceased  to  give  credit 
to  any  recent  prophecies,  many  firmly  believe  they  have  seen  the 
liilfdimcnt  of  some  of  the  predictions  that  were  made  before  their 
conversion  to  Christianity,  of  which  the  invasion  of  the  island  by 
the  natives  of  Bora  Bora  was  one.  This  event  was  foretold  by  a 
little  bird  called  Oomamoo,  which  had  the  gift  of  speech,  and  used 
to  warn  persons  of  any  danger  with  which  they  were  threatened. 
On  many  occasions,  when  persons  have  taken  refuge  in  the  moun- 
tains to  avoid  a  mandate  for  a  victim  for  the  moral,  or  to  escape 
lioni  some  civil  commotion,  this  little  bird  has  been  their  guardian 
spirit,  has  warned  them  when  danger  was  near,  and  directed  them 
how  to  escape  pursuit.  I  used  to  laugh  at  Jim,  our  interpreter,  a 
good-natured  intelligent  fellow,  for  his  belief  in  these  tales ;  but  he 
was  always  very  earnest  in  his  relation  of  them,  and  never  allowed 
himself  to  join  in  our  ridicule.  Though  he  confessed  that  this  little 
monitor  had  been  dumb  since  the  introduction  of  Christianity,  yet  it 
would  evidently  have  been  as  difficult  to  make  him  believe  it  never 
had  spoken,  as  that  the  danger  of  which  it  warned  him  had  never 
existed ;  and  this  feeling  is,  I  believe,  common  to  all  his  country- 
men. Nothing  is  more  difficult  than  ihe  removal  of  early  impressions, 
particularly  when  connected  with  superstitions.  I  was  one  evening 
returning  with  him  round  the  shore  of  the  bay  from  Papieie,  a  fa- 
vourite route,  and  was  conversing  on  the  superstitions  of  his  coun- 
trymen, when  we  came  to  a  retired  spot  crowned  with  tall  cocoa- 
nut  trees,  with  a  small  glen  behind  it.  Night  was  fast  approaching, 
and  the  long  branches  of  the  palm,  agitated  by  the  wind,  produced 
a  mournful  sound,  in  unison  with  the  subject  of  our  conversation. 
As  we  passed  I  observed  Jim  endeavouring  to  get  on  the  outside, 
and  latterly  walking  in  the  wash  of  the  sea  ;  and  found  that  he  never 
liked  to  pass  this  spot  after  dark  for  fear  of  the  spirits  of  his  unfortunate 
countrymen  who  were  hanged  there  between  the  cocoa-nut  trees. 
The  popular  belief,  before  the  introduction  of  our  faith,  was,  that 
the  spirit  of  the  deceased  visited  the  body  for  a  certain  time,  and 
for  this  reason  many  of  them  would  on  no  account  approach  this 
place  in  the  night  time. 

A  few  days  after  our  arrival  some  ofTenders  were  brought  to  trial, 
and  as  we  were  desirous  of  witnessing  the  proceedings  ol"  the  couit, 
it  was  removed  from  its  usual  site,  to  the  shade  of  some  trees  in  our 
immediate  vicinity.  The  court  was  ranged  upon  benches  placed  iu 
successive  w\\$  under  the  trees,  with  the  prisoners  in  front,  under 


n 


',< 


.,« 


w'^'j^m 


'1  •■  fir  ''■ 


188  VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC  [March, 

tlio  charge  of  an  officer  with  a  drawn  sahre,  and  habited  in  a  volun- 
teer's jacket  and  a  maro.  The  aava-rai  of  tlie  district  in  which  the 
crimes  had  been  committed  took  his  place  between  the  court  and 
the  prisoners,  dressed  in  a  long  straw  mat,  finely  plaited,  and  edged 
with  fringe,  with  a  slit  cut  in  it  for  the  head  to  pass  througli ;  a 
white  oakum  wig,  which,  in  imitation  of  the  gentlemen  of  our 
courts  of  law,  flowed  in  long  curls  over  his  shoulders,  and  a  tall 
cap  surmounting  it,  curiously  ornamented  with  red  feathers,  and 
with  variously  coloured  tresses  of  human  hair.  His  appearance 
without  shoes,  stockings,  or  trousers,  the  strange  attire  of  the  head, 
with  the  variegated  tresses  of  hair  mingling  with  the  oakum  curls 
upon  his  shoulders,  produced,  as  may  be  imagined,  a  ludicrous  ef- 
fect ;  and  I  regret  that  the  limits  of  this  work  prevent  my  subjoining 
an  admirable  representation  of  it  by  Mr.  Smyth. 

The  prisoner  being  brought  up,  the  aava  read  certain  passages 
from  the  penal  code,  and  then  accused  the  prisoner  of  having  stolen 
a  gown  from  a  European  resident.  He  instantly  pleaded  guilty  to 
the  charge,  and  thereby  saved  a  great  deal  of  trouble.  He  was  then 
admonished  against  the  repetition  of  evil  practices,  and  fined  four 
hogs,  two  to  the  king,  and  two  to  the  person  from  whom  the  prop- 
erty had  been  stolen.  Bail  is  not  necessary  in  Otaheite  ;  and  the 
prisoner,  consequently,  was  allowed  to  go  where  he  pleased,  which 
of  course  was  to  such  of  his  friends  as  were  most  likely  to  supply 
him  with  a  hog.  Three  other  persons  were  then  put  to  the  har, 
and  fined  for  a  breach  of  our  seventh  commandment.  The  young 
lady,  who  had  sinned  with  several  persons,  but  two  of  whom  only 
were  detected,  smilingly  heard  herself  sentenced  to  make  twenty 
yards  of  cloth,  and  the  two  men  to  furnish  six  posts  each,  for  a 
building  that  was  about  to  be  erected  at  Papiete.  In  default  of  pay- 
ment, transgressors  are  condemned  to  labour. 

Before  we  sailed,  a  more  serious  theft  was  committed  on  the 
stores  of  the  ship,  which  had  been  placed  under  a  shed,  and  like- 
wise on  the  wearing  apparrel  of  one  of  the  officers  who  was  ill  on 
shore.  Immediately  the  aavas  (policemen)  heard  of  it,  they  were 
on  the  alert,  and  arrested  two  men,  on  whom  suspicion  fell,  from 
their  having  slept  in  the  place  the  night  of  the  robbery,  and  abscond- 
ed early  in  the  morning.  The  news  of  the  offence  spread  with  its 
accustomed  rapidity  among  uncivilized  tribes  ;  and  various  were  the 
reports  in  circulation,  as  to  the  manner  in  which  I  intended  to  visit 
the  misdemeanour.  The  prisoners  at  first  acknowledged  their  guilt, 
but  afterwards  denied  it ;  and  declared  they  had  been  induced  to 
make  the  confession  from  the  threats  of  the  aavas  who  apprehend- 
ed them.  Nothing  was  found  upon  them,  and  no  person  could  he 
brought  forward  as  direct  witness  of  the  fact ;  so  that  their  guih  rest- 
ed on  circumstantial  evidence  alone.     I  was,  however,  anxious  to 


(      ,/  ■■   I 


1826.] 


AND  BEERINO'S  STRAIT. 


189 


bring  the  offenders  to  trial,  as  all  the  sails  and  stores  of  the  ship 
were  on  shore,  and  at  the  mercy  of  the  inhabitants ;  and  unless  se- 
vere measures  were  pursued  in  this  instance,  successive  depreda- 
tions would  in  all  probability  have  occurred.  The  chiefs  were  in 
consequence  summoned,  and  at  an  early  date  the  prisoners  were 
brought  to  trial  opposite  the  anchorage.  As  it  was  an  extraordina- 
ry case,  I  was  invited  to  the  tribunal,  and  paid  the  compliment  of 
being  allowed  to  interrogate  the  prisoners  ;  but  nothing  conclusive 
was  elicited,  though  the  circumstantial  proof  was  so  much  against 
them  that  five  out  of  the  six  of  the  chiefs  pronounced  them  guilty. 
The  penalty  in  the  event  of  conviction  in  a  case  of  this  nature  is, 
that  the  culprit  shall  pay  fourfold  the  value  of  the  property  stolen  : 
in  this  instance,  however,  as  the  articles  could  not  be  replaced,  and 
the  value  was  far  beyond  what  the  individuals  could  pay,  I  propos- 
ed, as  the  chiefs  referred  the  matter  to  n  ,  that,  by  way  of  an  ex- 
ample, and  to  deter  others  from  similar  acts,  the  prisoners  should 
suffer  corporal  punishment.  Their  laws,  however,  did  not  admit 
of  this  mode  of  punishment,  and  the  matter  concluded  by  the  chiefs 
making  themselves  responsible  for  the  stores,  and  directing  Pa-why 
to  acquaint  the  people  that  they  had  done  so,  promising  to  make 
further  inquiry  into  the  matter;  which  was  never  done,  and  the 
prisoners  escaped:  but  the  investigation  answered  our  purpose 
equally  well,  as  the  stores  afterwards  remained  untouched.  The 
various  reports  which  preceeded  the  trial,  the  assembling  of  the 
chiefs,  and  other  circumstances,  had  brought  together  a  great  con- 
course of  people.  Pa-why,  raising  himself  above  the  multitude, 
liarrangued  them  in  a  very  energetic  ana  apparently  elegant  man- 
ner, much  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  inhabitants,  who  all  dispersed 
and  went  quietly  to  their  homes.  The  consideration  which  the 
chiefs  gave  to  the  merits  of  this  question,  and  the  pains  they  took 
to  elicit  the  truth,  reflect  much  credit  upon  thlem.  The  case  waa 
a  difficult  one,  and  Hetotte,  not  being  able  to  make  up  his  mind  to  the 
guilt  of  the  prisoners,  very  honestly  differed  from  his  colleagues ; 
and  his  conduct,  while  it  afforded  a  gratifying  instance  of  the  integ- 
rity of  the  man,  showed  a  proper  consideration  for  the  prisoners, 
which  in  darker  ages  would  have  been  sacrificed  to  the  interested 
motive  of  coinciding  in  opinion  with  the  majority.  If  we  compare 
the  fate  which  would  have  befallen  the  prisoners,  supposing  them 
innocent,  had  they  been  arraigned  under  the  early  form  of  govern- 
ment, with  the  transactions  of  this  day,  we  cannot  but  congratulate 
the  people  on  the  introduction  of  the  preseut  penal  code,  and  ac- 
knowledge that  it  is  one  of  the  greatest  temporal  blessings  they  have 
derived  from  the  introduction  of  Christianity.  At  the  same  time 
it  is  just  to  observe,  that  had  a  similar  depredation  been  committed 
under  tliose  circumstances,  there  is  every  reason  to  believe  from 


hm 


t 


f 


H': 


[I ,( 


1 1 


J 


I 


ti 


ivl^j 


^^■w^ 


190 


VOYAGE  TO  TUE  PACIflC 


[March, 


■4» 


'■'IiaI 


ronncr  cxpeiioncc,  tliat  the  loal  offender  would  have  been  delud- 
ed, and  tlie  pro|)erty  restored. 

On  the  'hd  April  the  young  kin^  huided  at  Otaheite  from  Eiinco, 
and  was  received  w  illi  the  most  enthusiastic  sliouts  of  liis  suhjocts. 
\.lio  were  asseud)le(l  in  great  numhers  on  the  beach  to  welconu;  his 
arrival.  Ti)e  following  day  he  paid  a  visit  to  the  ship,  attendcl 
by  the  queen,  a  nunierons  retinue,  and  Mr.  Pritchard,  the  principal 
missionary  upon  the  island.  1  saluted  the  king  on  the  occasion  wjili 
nine  guns,  much  to  the  delight  of  his  subjects  ;  and  presented  Inin 
with  the  fowling-i)iccc  which  was  sent  out  by  the  govennnenl  lor 
that  purpose.  The  stock  was  inlaid  with  silver,  and  the  case  liaiid- 
soniely  lined,  and  fitted  up  in  a  manner  which  made  a  deep  impres- 
sion on  the  minds  of  the  Otaheitans,  who  arc  extremely  fond  of  dis- 
play,  and  who  expressed  their  approbation  by  repeated  exclmna- 
tions  of  "  My-tie  !  mia  my-tie  Prctannee  !"  as  each  article  was  t-x- 
hibited.  The  king  was  a  well-behaved  boy,  of  slender  make,  unit- 
ing with  the  rudiments  of  an  European  education  much  native 
shrewdness  ]  and  the  chiefs  were  considerably  interested  in  him,  as 
they  considered  his  education  would  give  him  advantages  over  his 
predecessors  ;  and  his  succession  to  the  throne  would  remove  the 
reins  of  government  from  the  hands  of  the  present  possessor,  whose 
measures  were  not  always  the  most  disinterested  or  beneficial  to  her 
country;  and  who,  in  consequence  of  her  influence  with  the  Boo- 
ratiras,  the  most  powerful  body  of  men  upon  the  island,  often  car- 
ried her  plans  into  execution  in  spite  of  the  wishes  of  the  chiefs  to 
the  contrary.  13ut  the  object  of  their  hopes  unfortunately  died  the 
following  year,  and  the  sceptre  passed  to  the  hands  of  Aimatta,  iiis 
sister,  of  whom  the  missionaries  s])eak  well. 

Before  we  sat  down  to  dinner,  I  was  amused  at  Jim,  the  inter- 
preter, bringing  me  the  queen  dowadger's  compliments,  and  "  sJie 
would  be  much  obliged  by  a  little  rum,"  to  qualify  a  repast  she  had 
been  making  on  raw  fish,  by  way,  I  suppose,  of  provoking  an  appe- 
tite for  dinner.  We  had  missed  her  majesty  a  few  minutes  before 
from  the  cabin,  and  on  looking  over  the  stern  of  the  ship,  saw  her 
seated  in  a  native  boat  finishing  her  crude  repast. 

A  few  days  previous  to  this  visit  Lieutenant  Belcher  was  des- 
patched in  the  barge  to  Mirapaye,  in  the  district  of  Papara,  to  biinj 
round  a  quantity  of  beef  which  had  been  prepared  there  for  the 
shijj's  use  by  Mr.  Henry,  the  son  of  one  of  the  early  missionaries, 
In  this  district  there  is  a  lake  and  a  moral,  of  which  it  will  be  prop- 
er to  give  a  short  notice,  as  the  former  is  considered  curious,  and 
foreigners  are  often  led,  by  the  exaggerated  account  of  the  natives, 
to  visit  the  place,  which  really  does  not  repay  the  trouble  it  involves. 
To  convey  some  idea  of  the  difficulty  of  reaching  this  lake,  Lieu- 
tenant Belcher  and  Mr.  Collie,  who  accompanied  him,  crossed  a 


I'       I     \ 


^mttL. 


WW 


1926.] 


AND    IIEKRING  S    STHAIT. 


191 


stream  which  ran  throut>;h  llu;  valk'y  Icadiiiji;  to  it  iwcnty-ninc  times 
ill  tlu'ir  nsppiit,  somotinics  at  a  depth  ronsidciahly  uht)vc  thoir 
knees ;  and  alter  it  was  passed  it  was  necessary  to  elind)  the  moun- 
tain iij^n  hands  and  knees,  and  to  maintain  their  position  hy  j|;rasp- 
insi  the  sin'uhs  in  their  way,  which  indeed  were,  for  tlio  most  part, 
weak  and  trearhrous,  ronsistins^  principally  of  the  viitsa  sojiientum, 
amniCuts  ihiU'is,  and  some  lerns. 

'<  In  this  manner,"  says  Mr.  Collie,  "  after  tracing  a  zigzag  and 
irrcgnlar  course,  losing  our  way  once  or  twice,  we  n^achedthe  liigh- 
cst  part  of  the  aclivity  ;  and  then  descending  a  short  distance,  the 
|niny  lake  burst  upon  our  disappointed  view."  Its  dimensions  were 
estimated  at  three  quarters  of  a  mile  in  circumference  ;  and  it  was 
stated  by  the  natives  to  be  fourteen  fathoms  deep.  The  water  of 
tlie  lake  was  nuiddy,  and  appeared  to  receive  its  supplies  from  sev- 
eral small  streams  from  the  mountains,  and  the  condensation  of  the 
vapour  around,  which  fell  in  a  succession  of  drops,  and,  bounding 
off  the  projecting  parts  of  the  clilF,  formed  here  and  there  thin  and 
airy  cascades.  Though  there  is  a  constant  accession  of  water,  there 
has  not  yet  been  found  any  outlet  to  the  lake ;  and  what  renders  it 
still  more  curious  is,  that  when  heavy  rains  descend,  the  water,  in- 
stead of  rising  and  overflowing  its  margin,  is  carried  off  by  some 
subterraneous  cliannel.  The  natives  say,  when  these  rains  occur 
there  is  a  great  rush  of  water  from  a  large  cavern  beneath  the  bed 
of  the  lake.  The  temperature  of  the  lake  at  seven  a.  m.  was  72°, 
and  that  of  the  atmosphere  71*^.  During  a  shower  of  rain  it  rose  to 
74°:  a  thermometer  at  the  level  of  the  sea  at  the  same  time  stood 
at  77°.  One  side  of  the  lake  was  bounded  by  lofty  perdendicular 
precipices,  the  other  by  a  gentle  slope  covered  with  the  varied  ver- 
dure of  trees,  shrubs,  and  ferns,  with  a  few  herbaceous  plants.  The 
j^eneral  appearance  of  the  country  suggested  the  idea  of  an  enor- 
mous avalanche,  which  stopped  up  the  valley,  and  intercepted  the 
streams  that  heretofore  found  their  way  along  its  bed  to  the  sea. 

The  lake  was  estimated  at  1500  feet  above  the  level  ^  the  sea, 
and  the  cliffs  from  which  this  av.ilanche  appeared  to  have  been 
precipitated  were  considered  to  be  eight  hundred  feet  more. 
Though  at  so  great  a  height,  and  so  far  from  any  large  tract  of  land, 
this  extraordinary  basin  is  said  to  abound  in  fresh  water  eels  of  an 
enormous  size.  On  the  margin  of  the  basin,  blocks  of  columnar 
basalt,  with  pores  and  vesicular  lava,  were  heaped  in  great  con- 
fusion. 

On  the  eastern  side,  Mr.  Belcher  found  great  quantities  of  vesi- 
cular shaggy  lava,  which  led  him  to  suppose  a  volcano  existed  in 
the  vicinity ;  and  he  remarks  that  many  persons  who  visited  the 
lake  were  of  the  opinion  that  it  was  a  crater  filled  with  water.  In 
other  parts  he  collected  some  very  perfect  crystals  of  basaltic  horn- 


J»w 


,1. 


If 


-'-'JTT' 


'■-^'^_\i^£S^ 


192 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[April, 


jU 


iti 


blend,  and  found  one  or  two  ofolvine  on  thesurfarce  of  the  vesicular 
lava.  The  lake  appeared  to  be  falling  rapidly  when  they  saw  it; 
at  a  place  where  Mr.  Belcher  was  obliged  to  cross  it  there  wore 
eighteen  inches  of  water ;  some  time  after,  at  sunset,  there  wero  oiih 
six  inches ;  and  the  next  morning  the  rock  was  dry.  On  cxaiiiin'. 
ing  this  i)lace  he  noticed  a  large  chasm  beneath  a  rock,  throii;rli 
which  it  appeared  the  water  had  found  an  outlet ;  and  favoured  tiiu 
opinion  of  the  basin  being  caused  by  an  avalanche. 

The  moral  is  the  same  as  that  exhibited  in  the  voyage  of  Mr, 
Wilson,  and  mentioned  by  Captain  Cook.  Its  measurements  Iiavc 
been  given  in  those  voyages,  and  perhaps  more  correctly  than  the 
present  dilapated  slate  of  the  edifice  admits.  But  its  history  is  In- 
teresting,  as  it  was  told  by  a  desendant  of  the  chief  who  erected  it, 
and  whose  family,  as  well  as  himself,  were  priests  of  the  god 
to  whom  it  was  consecrated.  It  differs  in  several  rcspocis 
from  the  account  given  by  Mr.  Ellis  ;  but  1  insert  it  as  related  to 
Mr.  Belcher  by  the  chief. 

The  great-grandfather  of  Taati,  the  present  chief,  whose  name 
holds  a  conspicuous  place  in  the  wars  of  Pomarree,  was  defeated  in 
a  pitched  battle  by  the  king.  The  chief,  incensed  at  the  god  under 
whose  protection  he  fought,  went  to  Ulietea,  and  by  devotion,  pre- 
sents, and  promises,  induced  the  god  of  that  place,  Oroo,to  accom- 
pany him  to  Otaheite.  On  his  return,  the  new  and,  as  it  was  sup- 
posed,  powerful  god,  so  inspired  the  refugee  party  with  courage, 
that  they  again  rallied  around  their  chief,  and  so  forcibly  did  the 
superstition  of  those  dark  ages  operate,  that  the  king,  before  victo- 
rious, was  now  repeatedly  beaten  and  driven  to  the  opposite  side 
of  the  island.  The  cliief,  having  secured  tranquility  to  his  district, 
began  to  construct  the  morai  above  alluded  to,  which  was  of  sucli 
magnitude  as  to  require  two  years  for  its  completion.  It  was  tlien 
dedicated  to  the  god  whose  presence  had  achieved  for  him  such 
repeated  victories. 

The  change  effected  in  the  circumstances  of  the  chief  of  Papara 
by  the  introduction  of  this  new  god,  acquired  for  the  deity  a  repu- 
tation beyond  any  thing  that  had  been  known  in  Otaheite  ;  and  the 
king  determined  to  obtain  possession  of  it.  By  bribing  the  priest?, 
he  was  allowed  to  pay  his  devotions  to  the  deity,  and  afterwards  to 
fight  under  its  auspices,  which  he  did  so  successfully  that  he  ulti- 
mately obtained  possession  of  the  idol.  A  morai  was  then  built  for 
it  in  the  valley  of  Atehuru,  situated  between  Mirapaye  and  Papiete; 
memorable  as  the  place  where  the  last  battle  was  fought  which  de- 
cided the  cause  between  Christianity  and  paganism,  and  crowned 
with  success  the  labours  of  the  missionaries,  who  for  eighteen  years 
had  been  unremitting  in  their  endeavours  to  accomplish  this  great 
end  ;  this  valley  is  also  celebrated  in  consequence  of  a  strong-hold 


^^'^ 


1926.] 


AND  IlECnilfo's  HTRAIT. 


193 


on  an  eminence  near  it,  wlicrc  the  old  men  and  women  used  to  re- 
tire in  all  rases  of  attack  upon  the  distrirt.  In  this  lust  and  impor- 
tant battle  Taati's  brother  lost  his  life,  supporting  to  the  last  the 
cause  of  idolatry.  Taati  himself  had  been  converted  to  the  new 
liiitli,  an<l  was  joined  with  Pomarree  in  opposition  to  his  relation. 

While  we  were  at  anchor,  a  whale-ship  arrived  from  New  Zea- 
land, with  n  party  of  natives  of  that  country  on  board,  whom  the 
inasler  permitted  to  exhibit  their  war-dance  for  our  diversion.  After 
the  duly  of  the  day  was  over,  the  party  assembled  in  front  of  the 
consul's  house,  and  the  Otaheitans,  anxious  for  an  opportunity  of 
comparing  the  dances  of  other  countries  with  their  own,  crowded 
round  in  great  numbers  to  witness  the  performance. 

Tlie  exhibition  took  place  by  torch-light,  and  began  by  the  party 
being  drawn  up  in  a  lino  with  their  chief  in  advance,  who  regulated 
their  motions;  which,  though  very  numerous,  were  all  simultaneous, 
and  siiowed  that  they  were  well  practised  in  them.  They  began 
by  stamping  their  feet  upon  the  ground,  and  then  striking  the  palms 
of  the  hands  upon  the  thighs  for  about  a  minute,  after  which  they 
threw  their  bodies  into  a  variety  of  contortions,  twisted  their  heads 
about,  grinned  hideously,  and  made  use  of  all  kinds  of  imprecations 
and  abuse  on  their  supposed  enemy,  as  if  to  defy  him  to  battle : 
having  at  length  worked  themselves  into  a  c  nplete  frenzy,  they 
uttered  a  yell,  and  rushed  to  the  conflict ;  which,  frotn  what  we  saw 
represented,  must  in  reality  be  horrible ;  the  effect  upon  the  peace- 
at)le  Otaheitans  was  such  that  long  before  they  came  to  the  charge 
some  of  them  ran  away  through  fear,  and  all,  no  doubt,  congratu- 
lated themselves  that  there  was  so  wide  an  expanse  of  water  be- 
tween their  country  and  New  Zealand.  A  dirge  over  the  fallen 
enemy  concluded  the  performance,  which  it  is  impossible  adequate- 
ly to  describe.  We  learned  from  the  whaler,  that  Shonghi,  the 
New  Zealand  chief  who  was  educated  in  England,  was  availing 
himself  of  the  superiority  he  had  acquired,  and  was  making  terrible 
ravages  among  his  countrymen,  whose  heads,  when  dried,  furnished 
him  with  a  lucrative  trade. 

On  the  24th  we  prepared  for  our  departure  :  during  our  stay  we 
visited  the  natives  almost  daily  in  their  habitations,  and  became  well 
acquainted  with  their  habits  and  manner  of  living  ;  but  in  this  inter- 
course there  was  so  little  novelty,  that,  considering  how  many  vol- 
umes have  been  written  upon  the  country,  by  persons  whose  stay 
far  exceeded  ov.  y,  it  would  be  both  tiresome  and  useless  to  detain 
the  reader  with  their  description.  The  conclusion  generally  arri- 
ved at  was,  that  the  people  retain  much  of  their  original  character 
and  many  of  their  habits,  and  appear  to  have  been  particularly  de- 
scribed by  TurnbuU ;  but  if  early  historians  err  not,  they  have  lost 

25 


'^. 


I'll 


i\ 


It 


,^ 


111".  I  imtJW^mfmw 


"""■"Plr 


194 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[April, 


much  of  their  cheerfulness,  and  the  women  a  great  deal  of  their 
beauty. 
•  Considering  the  advances  the  country  had  made  toward  the  for- 
mation of  a  government  by  the  election  of  a  parliament,  and  by  tlie 
promulgation  of  laws,  we  certainly  expected  to  find  something  In 
progress  to  meet  approaching  events,  yet  in  none  of  our  excursions 
did  we  see  any  manufactures  beyond  those  which  were  in  use  wjien 
the  island  was  first  discovered,  but  on  the  contrary,  it  was  evident 
that  they  had  neglected  many  which  then  existed.  We  were  sorry 
to  find  that  none  of  those  in  operation  could  be  materially  useful  to 
the  state ;  that  there  were  no  dawnings  of  art,  nor  did  there  appear 
to  be  any  desire  on  the  part  of  the  people  to  improve  their  condi- 
tion ;  but  so  far  from  it,  we  noticed  a  feeling  of  composure  and  in- 
difference  which  will  be  the  bane  of  their  future  prosperity. 

The  island  is  nevertheless  imperceptibly  entering  into  notice:  it 
is  advantageously  situated  for  various  purposes  of  commerce,  and. 
consequently,  in  the  event  of  a  war  between  England  and  other 
powers,  it  might  be  subjected  to  many  annoyances  from  the  most 
insignificant  force — from  and  armed  vessel  indeed  which  might  thinl< 
it  her  duty  to  annoy  the  island  on  the  ground  of  its  reputed  alliance 
with  England.  There  are  no  works  of  defence  to  obviate  such  a 
possibility  :  the  natives  have  not  yet  thought  of  the  precaution,  much 

A  less  have  they  commenced  any  preparation,  and  the  island  through- 

out is  in  a  perfectly  defenceless  condition.  The  weapons  with  which 
their  battles  were  formerly  fought  are  now  in  disuse,  and  the  inhab- 
itants have  lost  the  skill  necessary  to  employ  them  to  advantage. 
A  number  of  muskets  distributed  amongst  the  population  creates  an 
imaginary  security,  but  the  bad  condition  of  the  arms,  and  the  want 
of  powder,  would  render  them  unavailable.  At  all  events  they  are 
deficient  in  an  organized  body  of  men ;  a  species  of  defence  which 
seems  necessary  for  the  security  of  every  country  that  does  not  wish 
'  her  shores  to  be  invaded,  or  to  have  her  internal  tranquillity  distur- 
bed by  feuds ;  which  in  Otaheite  have  frequently  occurred,  and  are 
very  likely  to  do  so  again,  either  from  the  differences  of  opinion  in 
the  affairs  of  the  government,  or  from  the  jealousies  between  the 
chief  and  the  great  landholders,  the  Boo  Ratiras.  Their  tranquil- 
lity besides  may  have  hitherto  depended  upon  their  obscurity,  or 
on  the  equally  defenceless  condition  of  their  neighbours  with  them- 
selves; but  the  extension  of  navigation  has  removed  the  one,  and 
an  advancement  of  civilization  and  of  power  has  destroyed  the  bal- 
ance of  the  other. 
Religious  books  are  distributed  among  the  huts  of  such  of  the  natives 

^  as  are  converted,  or  who  are,  as  they  term  themselves,  missi-narees; 

but  many  of  the  inhabitants  are  still  tooti-ou.is  or  bad  characters,  an 
old  expression  signifying  literally  rusty  iron,  and  now  indiscriminate- 


!«BSB 


sess 


[April 

of  theii 

the  foi- 
ul  by  tlie 
ethlng  in 
xcursions 
use  when 
iS  evideni 
vere  sorry 
'  useful  lo 
2re  appear 
eir  condi- 
•e  and  in- 

notice:  ii 
lerce,  and, 
and  other 
I  the  most 
night  think 
ted  alliance 
ate  such  a 
jtion,niucli 
id  through- 
1  with  which 
,  the  inhab- 
advantage, 
creates  an 
[id  the  want 
Its  they  are 
3nce  which 
)es  not  wish 
lity  distur- 
ed,  and  are 
opinion  in 
etweon  the 
ir  tranquil- 
)scurity,  or 
with  them- 
e  one,  and 
?d  the  bal- 

■  the  natives 
issi-mrees; 
laracters,  an 
tscriminatc- 


1826.] 


AND    BEERINQ  S    STRAIT. 


195 


ly  used  for  a  dissenter  from  the  Christian  religion  and  a  low  char- 
acter. These  persons  are  now  of  no  religion,  as  they  have  renoun- 
ced their  former  one,  and  have  not  embraced  tliai;  which  has  been 
recently  introduced. 

Ignorance  of  the  language  prevented  my  obtaining  any  correct 
information  as  to  the  progress  that  had  been  made  generally  towards 
a  knowledge  of  the  Scriptures  by  tlit.^e  who  were  converted  ;  but 
my  impression  was,  and  I  find  by  the  journals  of  the  officers  it  was 
theirs  also,  that  it  was  very  limited,  and  but  few  understood  the 
simplest  parts  of  them.  Many  circumstances  induced  me  to  believe 
that  they  considered  their  religious  books  very  much  iit  the  same 
light  as  they  did  their  household  gods  ;  and  in  particular  their  con- 
duct on  the  occasion  of  a  disturbance,  which  arose  from  some  false 
reports  at  the  time  of  the  robbery  on  tlic  stores  of  the  ship,  when 
they  deposited  these  books  in  the  mission,  and  declared  themselves 
to  be  indifferent  about  their  lives  and  property,  so  long  as  the  sacred 
v6lume,  which  could  be  replaced  at  any  time  for  a  bamboo  of  oil, 
was  in  safety.  In  general  those  who  were  missi-narees  had  a  pro- 
per respect  for  the  book,  but  associating  with  it  the  suppression  of 
their  amusements,  their  dances,  singing,  and  music,  they  read  it  with 
much  less  good  will  than  if  a  system  had  been  introduced  which 
would  have  tempered  religion  with  cheerfulness,  and  have  instilled 
happiness  into  society. 

The  Otaheitans,  passionately  fond  of  recreation,  require  more  re- 
laxation than  other  people  ;  and  though  it  might  not  have  been  pos- 
sible at  once  to  clear  the  dances  from  the  immoralities  attending 
them,  still  it  would  have  been  good  policy  to  sanction  these  diver- 
sions under  certain  restrictions,  until  laws  which  were  more  import- 
ant began  to  sit  easy  on  the  shoulders  of  the  people.     Without 
amusements,  and  excessively  indolent,  they  now  seek  enjoyment  in 
idleness  and  sensuality,  and  too  much  pains  cannot  be  bestowed  to 
arouse  them  from  their  apathy,  and  to  induce  them  to  emerge  from 
their  general  state  of  indifference  to  those  occupations  which  are 
most  essential  to  their  welfare.     Looking  only  to  the  past,  they  at 
present  seem  to  consider  that  they  can  proceed  in  the  same  easy 
manner  they  have  hitherto  done ;  forgettmg  that  their  wants,  for- 
merly gratified  by  the  natural  produce  of  the  earth,  have  lately  been 
supplied  by  foreign  commodities,  which,  by  indulgence,  have  be- 
come essential  to  their  comfort ;  and  that  as  their  wants  increase,  as 
in  ail  probability  they  will,  they  will  find  themselves  at  a  loss  to 
meet  the  expenses  of  the  purchase.     They  forget  also  that  being 
dependent  upon  the  casual  arrival  of  merchant  vessels  for  the  sup- 
plies, they  are  liable  to  be  deprived  of  them  suddenly  by  the  occur- 
rence of  a  war,  or  some  other  contingency,  and  this  at  a  period  per-^ 
haps  when  by  disuse  they  will  not  have  the  power  of  falling  back 
upon  those  which  have  been  discontinued. 


■::fi.- 


t  "Vl 


■^'«  1* 


'!  » 


'^ 


in 


196 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[April, 


i 


M  '   '!? 


!  :'^*'  *  y;^!' 


The  country  is  not  deficient  in  the  productions  adapted  to  com- 
merce. The  sugar-cane  grows  so  luxuriantly  that  from  two  small 
enclosurses  five  tons  of  white  sugar  are  annually  manufactured  un- 
der  the  superintendence  of  an  Englishman ;  cotton  has  been  found 
tc  succeed  very  well ;  arrow-root  of  good  quality  is  plentiful :  they 
have  some  sandal-wood,  and  other  ornamental  woods  suitable  ht 
furniture,  and  several  dyes.  Besides  these,  coffee  and  other  grain 
might  no  doubt  be  grown,  and  they  might  salt  down  meat,  whicli, 
with  other  articles  I  have  mentioned, would  constitute  a  trade  quite  suf- 
ficient to  procure  for  the  inhabitants  luxuries  which  are  in  a  gradual 
course  of  introduction,  and  to  make  it  desirable  for  merchant  vessels 
to  touch  at  the  island.  It  is  not  from  the  poverty  of  the  island, 
therefore,  from  which  they  are  likely  to  feel  inconvenience,  but 
from  their  neglect  to  avail  themselves  of  its  capabilities,  and  employ 
its  productions  to  advantage. 

It  seemed  as  if  the  people  never  had  these  things  revealed  to 
tb^rn,  or  had  sunk  into  an  apathy,  and  were  discouraged  at  finding 
cuch  year  burdened  with  new  restrictions  upon  their  liberties  and 
enjoyments,  and  nothing  in  return  to  sweeten  the  cup  of  life.  I 
cannot  avoid  repeating  my  conviction,  that  had  the  advisers  of  Po- 
marree  limited  the  penal  code  at  first,  and  extended  it  as  it  became 
familiar  to  the  people  ;  had  they  restricted  instead  of  suppressed  the 
amusements  of  the  people,  and  taught  them  such  parts  of  the  Chris- 
tian religion  as  were  intelligible  lo  their  simple  understandings,  and 
were  most  conducive  to  the  moral  improvement  and  domestic  com- 
fort, these  zealous  and  really  praiseworthy  men  would  have  made 
greater  advances  towards  the  att  'nment  of  their  object. 

li"  in  offering  these  remarks  it  dhould  be  thought  I  have  been  se- 
vere upon  the  failings  of  the  people,  or  upon  the  conduct  of  the 
missionary  gentlemen,  I  have  only  to  say,  that  I  have  felt  myself 
called  upon  to  declare  the  truth,  which  I  trust  has  been  done  with- 
out any  invidious  feeling  to  either  ;  indeed,  I  experienced  nothing 
during  my  stay  that  could  create  such  a  feeling,  but  very  much  to  the 
contrary,  as  both  my  officers  and  myself  received  every  possible 
kindness  from  them.  And  if  I  have  pourtrayed  their  errors  more 
minuicly  than  their  virtues,  it  has  been  done  with  a  view  to  sliow, 
that  although  the  condition  of  the  people  is  much  improved,  they 
are  not  yet  blessed  with  that  state  of  innocence  and  domestic  com- 
fort of  which  we  have  read.  It  would  have  been  far  more  agreea- 
ble to  have  dwelt  on  the  fair  side  of  tlieir  character  only,  but  that 
has  already  been  done,  and  by  following  the  same  course  I  should 
only  have  increased  the  general  misconception. 

At  the  time  of  our  arrival,  the  rainy  season,  which  had  been 
somewhat  protracted,  was  scarcely  over.  Its  proper  period  is  De- 
cember, January,  and  February.     So  much  wet  weather  in  the 


Sft'^ 


1826.] 


AND  BEERINc'g  STRAIT. 


197 


to 


nothing 
ucli  to  tlie 
possible 
lors  inorc 
I  to  show, 
,'ed,  they 
istic  com- 
|e  agreca- 
,but  that 
|l  should 

liad  hccn 
xl  is  Do- 
in  the 


heisiht  of  summer  is  always  the  occasion  of  fevers,  and  together  with 
the  abundance  of  vee-apples  (spoiidias  dulcus) ,  which  ripen  about 
that  period,  produce  dysentary  and  sickness  among  the  poorer  class 
of  inhabitants,  several  of  whom  were  labouring  under  these  and  oth- 
er complaints  during  our  stay.  Miserable  indeed  was  the  condition 
of  many  of  them.  They  retired  from  their  usual  abode  and 
the  society  of  their  friends,  and  erected  huts  for  themselves  in  the 
woods,  in  which  they  dwelt,  until  death  terminated  their  sufferings. 
The  missionaries  and  resident  Europeans  strove  as  much  as  was  in 
their  power  to  alleviate  these  distresses ;  but  the  natives  were  so 
improvident  and  careless  that  the  medicine  often  did  them  harm 
rather  than  good,  and  many  preferred  their  own  simple  pharmaco- 
poeia, and  thus  fell  victinw  to  their  ignorance.  Our  own  ship's 
company  improved  upon  the  abundance  of  fish  and  vegetable  diet ; 
but  from  what  afterwards  occurred,  I  am  disposed  to  think  the 
change  from  their  former  food  to  so  much  vegetable  substance  wa;^  ve- 
ry injurious.  Regard  to  this  subject  ought  not  to  be  overlooked  in 
vessels  circumstanced  as  the  Blossom  was. 

The  winds  during  our  stay  were  principally  from  the  eastward, 
freshening  in  the  forenoon,  and  moderating  toward  sun-set  to  a  calm, 
or  giving  place  to  a  light  breeze  off  the  land,  which  sometimes  pre- 
vailed through  the  night.  This  effect  upon  the  trade-wind,  by 
comparatively  so  small  a  tract  of  coast,  shows  the  powerful  influence 
of  the  land  upon  the  atmosphere. 

In  the  height  of  summer,  or  during  the  rainy  season,  the  winds  fly 
«)und  to  the  W.  and  N.  W.  aqd  blow  in  gales  or  hard  squalls,  which 
it  is  necessary  to  guard  against  in  anchoring  upon  the  north-west- 
ern coast,  particularly  at  Matavai  Bay,  which  is  quite  open  to  those 
quarters.  The  mean  temperature  of  the  atmosphere  during  our 
stay  was  79°  98,  the  minimum  75°,  and  maximum  87°. 

The  many  excellent  ports  in  Otaheite  have  been  enumerated  by 
Captain  Cook,  though  he  only  made  use  of  one,  Matavai  Bay,  and 
that  which  was  most  exposed ;  in  consequence,  probably,  of  the 
facility  of  putting  to  sea.  Those  on  the  north-western  coast  are  the 
most  frequented,  as  some  difficulty  of  getting  out  and  in  attends 
most  of  the  others,  particularly  those  in  the  south-western  side  of 
the  island,  which  are  subject  to  a  constant  heavy  swell  from  the 
higher  latitudes,  and  in  the  long  calms  that  prevail  under  the  lee  of 
the  island,  are  apt  to  endanger  vessels  approaching  the  reefs.  Of 
the  four  on  th#north-western  coast,  viz.  Matavai,  Papawa,  Toanoa, 
and  Papiete,  the  last  is  the  common  anchorage,  and  were  it  not  tliat 
it  is  subject  to  long  calms  and  very  hot  weather,  in  consequence  of 
being  more  to  leeward  than  others,  it  would  certainly  be  the  best. 
Toanoa  is  very  small,  but  conveniently  adapted  to  the  rtfit  of  one 
or  two  ships.     The  best  port  however  lies  between  this  anchorage 


lis 


r>- 


198 


VOTAQE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[April, 


and  Matavai,  and  is  called  Papawa ;  several  ships  may  anchor  there 
in  perfect  safety  quite  close  to  the  shore,  and  if  a  wharf  were  con- 
structed, might  land  thoir  cargoes  upon  it  without  the  assistance  of 
boats.  It  may  be  entered  either  from  the  east  or  west,  and  it  has 
the  additional  advantage  of  having  Matavai  Bay  for  a  stopping 
place,  should  circumstances  render  it  inconvenient  to  enter  at  the 
moment ;  but  this  channel  which  communicates  with  Matavai  Bay 
must  be  approached  with  attention  to  two  coral  knolls  that  have  es- 
caped the  notice  of  both  Cook  and  Blith.  I  have  given  directions 
for  avoiding  them  in  my  nauctical  remarks. 

The  tides  in  all  harbours  formed  by  cord  reefs  are  very  irregular 
and  uncertain,  and  are  almost  wholly  dependant  upon  the  sea- 
breeze.     At  Toanoa  it  is  usually  low  water  about  six  every  morn- 
ing, and  high  water  half  an  hour  after  noon.     To  make  this  devia- 
tion from  the  ordinary  course  of  nature  intelligible,  it  will  be  better 
to  consider  the  harbour  as  a  basin,  over  the  margin  of  which,  after 
--,  the  breeze  springs  up,  the  sea  beats  with  considerable  violence,  and 
...  throws  a  larger  supply  into  it  than  the  narrow  channels  can  carry  off 
^jn  the  same  time,  and  consequently  during  that  period  the  tide  rises. 
Jj^s  the  wind  abates  the  water  subsides,  and  the  nights  being  gene- 
rally calm,  and  the  water  finds  its  lowest  level  by  the  morning. 


m.. 


«• 


1926.] 


AND    BE£RIIfa  S    STRAIT. 


r     » 

199 


■ii 


CMMBEMK. 


itSk^ 


Departure  from  Otaheitc— Arrival  at  Woahoo,  Sandwich  Islands — Contrast  between 
the  two  Counties — ^rot  the  King  and  Pitt — Departure — Onoehow — Passage  to 
KamschJRa — Petropaulski — Beering's  Island — St.  Lawrence  Island — Esquimaux 
— King's. I^Md^^iomcde — Pass  Beering's  Strait — Arrive  in  Kotzcbue  Sound — 
Anl^r  off  C'amiss    -----  .       .     _    .    .     — 


namisso  Island — Ice  Formation  in  Escholtz  Bay. 


had  .4Hf^  in 
tf  »^e  resic 


th  of  April,  we  left  this  delightful  island  in  which  we 
many  very  pleasant  days,  in  the  enjoyment  of  the  socie- 
residents,  and  of  the  scenery  of  the  country.     We  put  to 
ea  in  the  morning,  and  about  noon  reached  the  low  island  of  Te- 
thoroa,  the  watering  place  of  the  Otaheitans.     It  is  a  small  coral 
island,  distant  about  seven  leagues  from  Otaheite ;  from  the  hills  of 
which  it  may  be  distinctly  seen,  and  is  abundantly  provided  with 
cocoa-nut  trees.     The  salubrity  of  this  little  island,  which  was  for-- 
merly  the  resort  of  the  chiefs,  arreoys,  and  others,  for  the  purpose 
if  recruiting  their  health  after  their  debaucheries,  is  still  proverbial 
at  Otaheite.     Spare  diet  and  fresh  air  were  the  necessary  conse" 
quences  of  a  visit  to  this  place,  and  for  a  good  constitution  were  the 
only  restoratives  required;  and,  as  these  seldom  failed  in  their  ef" 
fects,  it  obtained  a  reputation  in  Otaheite,  no  less  famous  than  that  ojf 
the  celebrated  spring  of  eternal  youth,  which  Ponce  de  Leon  stf 
long  sought  in  vain.     From  the  proximity  of  the  islands  of  Tethoroa 
Otaheite,  and  Eimeo,  we  were  enabled  to  connect  them  trigonome- 
trically.     Upon  the  latter  there  is  a  peak  with  a  hole  through  it  to 
which  a  curious  history  is  attached,  connected  with  the  superstition 
of  early  times.     It  is  asserted  that  the  great  god,  Oroo,  being  one' 
day  angry  with  the  Tii,  or  the  little  God  of  Eimeo,  he  threw  his 
si)ear  across  the  water  at  him,  but  the  activity  of  the  Tii  evaded  the 
blow,  and  the  spear  passed  through  the  mountain,  and  left  the  hole 
which  we  saw.     The  height  of  this  peak  is  4041  feet. 

On  the  27th,  we  were  within  six  miles  of  the  situation  in  which 
Arrowsmith  has  placed  Roggewein's  high  Island  of  Recreation  ; 
but  nothing  was  in  sight  from  the  mast-head.  Iti  all  probability  this 
island,  which  answers  so  well  in  its  description,  excepting  as  to  its 
size,  is  the  Maitea  of  Mr.  Turnbull,  situated  nearly  in  the  samelati- 


* 


n' 


» 


f 


• 


y^ 


^nf^m^m  aiii 


200 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Apnl, 


,1       i 


^■'^' 


m 


tude.  From  this  time  we  endeavoured  to  get  to  the  eastward,  and 
to  cross  the  equator  in  about  150°  W.  longitude,  so  that  wiien  we 
met  the  N.  E.  trade-wind,  we  might  be  well  to  windward.  There  is 
otherwise,  some  difficultv  in  rounding  Owyhee,  which  should  be 
done  about  forty  miles  ta  the  eastward  to  ensure  the  breeze. 

The  passage  between  the^ociety  and  Sandwich  groupes  differs 
from  navigation  between  thq^ame  parallels  in  the  Atlantic,  in  the 
former  being  exempt  froifJlone cap^s  ^Wi  sometimes  prevail  about 
the  equator,  and  in  the  S.^.  rrme  beirv^nore  easterly.  The  wes- 
terly current  is  much  the  agfiae  i|^B#i' ;  and  if  not,  attended  to  in 
the  Pacific,  will  carry  a  ship%)  f^^  leeward,  that  by  the  time  slie 
reaches  the  parallel  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  site  will  be  a  Ions 
way  to  the  westward,  and  have  much  difficuj^^  in  ^eating  up  to 
them.  ■*• 

Soon   after  leaving  Otahieite,  the  officers  and^ihipls  conipany 
generally  were  afflicted  with  dysentery,  which,  aton^ime,  assumed 
an  alarming  appearance.     On  the  3d  of  May,  we  had  the  naisfortu§e*" 
to  lose  Mr.  Crawley,  one  of  the  midshipmen,  a  young  gentleman  of* 
very  good  abilities,  and  much  regretted  by  all  who  knew  hinj*  and   , 
on  the  6th,  William  Must,  my  steward,  sunk  under  the  same  com- , 
plaint.     On  the  7th,  great  apprehensions  were  entertained  for  Mr. 
Lay,  the  naturalist;  but  fortunately,  his  complaint  took  a  favourable 
turn  and  he, Ultimately  recovered.     The  disease,  however,  continued 
among  us  some  time,  threatening  occasionally  different  portions  of 
the  ship's  company. 

As  we  approached  the  Sandwich  Islands,  our  view  was  anxiously 
directed  to  the  qi^arter  in  which  Owyhee*  was  situated,  in  the  hope 
of  obtaining  a  sight  of  the  celebrated  Mouna  Roa ;  but  the  weather 
was  so  unfavourable  for  this  purpose,  that  the  land  at  the  foot  of 
the  hills  was  the  only  part  of  the  coast  which  presented  itself  to  our 
view.  On  the  18th,  we  passed  about  thirty  miles  to  windward  of 
the  eastern  points  of  the  island  ;  and  in  the  afternoon  of  the  follow- 
ing day,  as  it  was  too  late  to  fetch  the  anchorage  off  Woahoo,  we 
rounded  to  under  the  lee  of  Morotoi,  the  next  island.  The  follow- 
ing morning  we  came  to  an  anchor  in  nineteen  fathoms  outside  the 
reefs  of  Honoruro,  the  principal  port  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and 
the  residence  of  the  king.  This  anchorage  is  very  much  exposed, 
and  during  the  N.  W.  monsoon,  unsafe  ;  but  as  there  is  great  diffi- 
culty attending  a  large  ship  going  in  and  out  of  the  harbour,  it  is  the 
general  stopping  place  of  suC'h  vessels  as  make  but  a  short  stay  at 
the  island. 

Our  passage  from  Otaheite  to  this  place  had  been  so  rapid,  that 
the   contrast  between   the  two  countries  was  particularly  striking. 

*  More  recently  written  Hawaii. 


# 


■^."•-J-..4M^Jl 


1926.] 


AND  BEL.uIN0's  STRAIT. 


5201 


Ar  Woahoo,  tlie  eye  searches  in  vain  for  the  green  and  shady  for- 
ests skirting  the  shore,  which  enhven  the  scene  at  Otahcite.  The 
whole  country  has  a  parched  and  comparatively  barren  aspect ;  and 
it  is  not  until  the  heights  are  gained,  and  the  extensive  ranges  of 
tare  plantations  are  seen  filling  every  valley,  that  strangers  learn 
why  this  island  was  distinguised  by  the  name  of  the  garden  of  the 
Sandwich  Islands. 

The  difference  betwixt  tjre  apf)earance  of  the  natives  of  Woahoo  and 
Otaheite  is  not  less  conspicuous  than  that  of  the  scenery.  Constant 
exposure  to  the  sun  has  given  tliem  a  dark  complexion  and  a  coarse- 
ness of  feature  which  do  not  exist  in  the  Society  Islands  ;  and  their 
countenances,  moreover,  have  a  wildness  of  expression  which  at  first 
misleads  the  eye ;  but  this  very  soon  wears  off,  and  I  am  not  sure 
whether  this  manliness  of  character  does  not  create  a  respect  which 
the  effeminacy  of  the  Otahetians  never  inspires. 

As  we  rowed  up  the  harbour,  the  forts,  the  cannon,  and  the  en- 
sign of  the  Tamahamaha,  displayed  upon  the  ramparts  of-  a  fort 
mounting  forty  guns,  and  at  the  gaff  of  a  man-of-war  brig,  and  of 
some  other  vessels,  rendered  the  distinction  between  the  two  coun- 
tries still  more  evident ;  and  on  landing,  the  marked  attention  to 
etiquette,  and  the  respect  shown  by  the  subjects  to  their  chiefs,  of- 
fered a  similar  contrast.  In  every  way  this  country  seemed  far  to 
surpass  the  other  in  civilization — but  there  were  strong  indications 
ofa  close  connexion  between  the  natives  of  both. 

It  was  not  long  since  Lord  Byron  in  the  Blonde  had  quitted  these 
islands ;  the  appearance  of  a  man-of-war  was,  therefore,  no  novel- 
ty ;  but  the  beach  was  thronged  to  excess  with  people  of  all  dis- 
tinctions, who  behaved  in  a  very  orderly  manner,  helped  us  out  of 
the  boats,  and  made  a  passage  as  we  advanced.  In  our  way,  noth- 
ing more  strikingly  marked  the  superiority  of  this  country  over  that 
\\2  had  recently  quitted  than  the  number  of  wooden  houses,  the  re- 
gularity of  the  town  laid  out  in  squares,  intersected  by  streets  prop- 
erly fenced  in,  and  the  many  notices  which  appeared  right  and  left, 
on  pieces  of  board,  on  which  we  read  "  An  Ordinary  at  one  o'clock, 
Billiards,  the  Britannia,  the  Jolly  Tar,  the  Good  Woman,"  Stc. 
After  a  short  walk,  we  came  to  a  neatly  built  wooden  house,  with 
glass  windows,  theresidenc-;  of  Krimakoo,  or,  as  he  was  commonly 
called,  Pitt,  whom  I  found  extended  upon  the  floor  of  his  apartment, 
suffering  under  a  dropsical  complaint,  under  which  he  ultimately 
sunk.  This  disease  had  so  increased  upon  him  of  late  that  he  had 
undergone  five  operations  for  it  since  the  departure  of  the  Blonde. 
Though  unable  to  rise  from  his  bed,  his  mind  was  active  and  unim- 
paired ;  and  when  the  conversation  turned  upon  the  affairs  of  the 
island,  he  was  quite  energetic,  regretting  that  his  confinement  pre- 
vented his  looking  more  into  them ;  and  his  greatest  annoyance 

26 


iJk 


^' 


tv 


tioa 


VOTAOE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


m 


**• 


[May, 

seemed  to  be  his  inability  to  see  every  thing  executed  himself.  He 
expressed  his  attachment  strongly  to  the  British  Government,  and 
his  gratitude  for  the  respect  that  had  been  shown  the  descendant  of 
his  illustrious  patron,  and  his  queen,  by  sending  their  bodies  to  the 
Sandwich  Islands  in  so  handsome  a  manner,  and  also  for  the  footing 
upon  which  the  affairs  of  the  state  had  been  placed  by  Lord  Byrn 
in  command  of  the  Blonde.  He  was  anxious  to  requite  these  fa- 
vours, and  pressed  his  desire  to  be  allowed  to  supply  all  the  de- 
mands of  the  ship  himself,  in  requital  for  the  liberty  with  which  his 
countrymen  were  treated  in  England.  I  could  not  accede  to  this 
effiision  of  the  chiefs  gratitude,  as  the  expense  attending  it  would 
have  been  considerably  felt  by  him,  and  more  particularly  as  Lord 
Byron  had  previously  declined  the  same  offer. 

The  young  king,  who  had  been  taking  an  airing,  arrived  at  this 
moment,  and  repeated  the  sentiments  of  his  protector,  making,  at 
the  same  time,  many  inquiries  for  his  friends  in  the  Blonde.  13oki 
was  absent  at  Owyhee,  attending  his  sister,  who  was  dangerously  ill. 
Madam  Boki,  Kuanoa,  Manuia,  and  the  other  chiefs  who  were  of 
the  party  in  England,  were  all  anxious  to  show  us  civility,  and  spoke 
of  England  in  such  high  terms,  that  they  will  apparently  never  for- 
get the  kind  treatment  they  experienced  there  :  but  they  had  a 
great  dread  of  the  diseases  of  our  country,  and  many  of  them  con- 
sidered it  very  unhealthy.  My  impression  was,  that  those  who  had 
already  been  there  had  had  their  curiosity  satisfied  to  feel  in  no  way 
disposed  to  risk  another  visit.  The  want  of  their  favourite  dish  Poe 
was,  besides,  so  serious  an  inconvenience,  that  when  allusion  was 
made  to  England,  this  privation  was  always  mentioned. 

Our  reception  was  friendly  in  the  extreme  ;  all  our  wants,  as  far 
as  possible,  were  supplied,  but  unfortunately  there  was  this  year  a 
scarcity  of  almost  every  kind  of  production  ;  the  protracted  rainy- 
season  and  other  circumstances  having  conspired  to  destroy  or  les- 
sen the  crops,  and  the  whole  population  was  in  consequence  suffer- 
ing from  its  effects.  There  was  also  a  scarcity  of  dried  provision, 
our  visit  having  proceeded  the  usual  time  of  the  arrival  of  the  whal- 
ers, who  discharge  all  they  can  spare  at  this  place  previous  to  thei; 
return  home.  Our  expectation  of  replenishing  the  ship's  provisions 
was  consequently  disappointed,  and  it  therefore  became  necessary 
to  reduce  the  daily  allowance  of  the  ship's  company,  and  to  pursue 
the  same  economical  system  here,  with  regard  to  taro  and  yams,  as 
was  done  at  Otaheite  with  the  bread-fruit. 

The  few  days  I  had  to  remain  here  were  devoted  to  astronomi- 
cal and  other  observations,  and  I  had  but  little  opportunity  of  judg- 
ing of  the  state  of  the  island  ;  but  from  a  letter  which  I  received 
from  Boki,  it  was  evident  that  he  did  not  approve  of  the  system  of 
religious  restraint  that  had  been  forced  into  operation,  which  was 


[May, 

elf.  He 
;nt,  and 
jndant  of 
:s  to  the 
e  footing 
rd  Byr-n 
these  fa- 
the  de- 
which  his 
ie  to  tliis 
;  it  would 
y  as  Lord 

ed  at  this 
(laking,  at 
de.  13oki 
erously  ill. 
o  were  of 
,  and  spoke 
never  for- 
;hey  had  a 
them  con- 
>se  who  had 
3I  in  no  way 
ite  dish  Pee 
illusion  was 

■ants,  as  far 
[this  year  a 
•acted  rainy 
troy  or  les- 
lence  suffer- 
provision, 
)f  the  whal- 
lous  to  theu 
's  provisions 
necessary 
id  to  pursue 
nd  yams,  as 

astronomi- 
lity  of  judg- 

1  received 
le  system  oi 

which  was 


18-26.] 


AND  BEURINO  S  STRAIT. 


803 


alike  obnoxious  to  the  foreigners  residing  upon  the  island  and  to  the 
natives. 

At  the  time  of  our  departure  the  health  of  Mr.  Lay  was  by  no 
means  restored,  and  as  it  appealed  to  me  that  his  time  during  the 
absence  of  the  ship  could  be  more  profitably  employed  among  the 
islands  of  the  Sandwich  groupe  than  on  the  frozen  shores  of  the 
north,  he  was  Idft  behind,  under  the  protection  of  Pitt,  whose  kind- 
ness on  the  occasion  nothing  could  exceed.  Mr.  Collie  took  upon 
himself  the  charge  of  the  naturalist,  and  accquitted  himself  in  a  high- 
ly creditable  manner. 

On  the  31st  of  May  we  took  our  leave  of  Woahoo,  and  proceed- 
ed to  Oneehow,  the  westernmost  island  of  the  Sandwich  groupe, 
famous  for  its  yams,  fruit,  and  mats.  This  island  is  the  property  of 
the  king,  and  it  is  necessary,  previous  to  proceeding  thither,  to  make 
a  bargain  with  the  authorities  at  Woahoo  for  what  may  be  required, 
who  in  that  case  send  an  agent  to  see  the  agreement  strictly  fulfil- 
led. On  the  1st  of  June  we  hauled  into  a  small  sandy  bay  on  the 
western  side  of  the  island,  the  same  in  which  Vacouver  anchored 
when  he  was  there  on  a  visit  of  a  similar  nature  to  our  own  ;  and  I 
am  sorry  to  say  that  like  him  we  were  disappointed  in  the  expect- 
ed supplies  ;  not  from  their  scarcity,  but  in  consequence  of  the  in- 
dolence of  the  natives. 

Oneehow  is  comparatively  low,  and,  with  the  exception  of  the 
fruit  trees,  which  are  carefully  cultivated,  it  is  destitute  of  wood. 
The  soil  is  too  dry  to  produce  taro,  but   on  that  account  it  is  well 
adapted  to  the  growth  of  yams,  &ic.  which  are  very  excellent  and 
of  an  enormous  size.     There  is  but  one  place  in  this  bay  where  the 
boat  of  a  man  of  war  can  effect  a  landing  with  safety  when  the  sea 
sets  into  the  bay,  which  is  a  very  common  occurrence  ;  this   is  on 
its  northern  shore,  behind  a  small  reef  of  rocks  that  lies  a  little  way 
off  the  beach,  and  even  here  it  is  necessary  to  guard  against  sunk- 
en rocks  ;  off  the  western  point  these  breakers  extend  a  mile  and  a 
half.     The  soundings  in  the  bay  are  regular,  upon  a  sandy  bottom, 
and  there  is  good  anchorage,  if  required,  with  the  wind  from  the 
eastward ;  but  it  would  not  be  advisable  to  bring  up  under  any  other 
circumstances.     The  natives  are  a  darker  ra,pe  of  people  than  those 
of  Woahoo,  and  reminded  us  strongly  of  the  inhabitants  of  Bow  Isl- 
and.    With  the  exception  of  the  house  of  the  Earee,  all  the  huts 
were  small,  low,  and  hot ;  the  one  which  we  occupied  was  so  close 
that  we  were  obliged  to  make  a  hole  in  its  side  to  admit  the  sea 
breeze.  » 

We  took  on  board  as  many  yams  as  the  natives  could  collect  be- 
fore sun-set,  and  then  shaped  our  course  for  Kamschatka,  In  doing 
this  I  deviated  from  the  tracks  of  both  Cook  and  Clerke,  which  I 
think  was  the  occasion  of  our  passage  being  shorter  than  either  of 


■J 


^ 


II 


:A 


ur.'  V 


201 


VOYAGE  TO  TUU  PACIFIC 


[./une, 


theirs.  Instead  of  running  to  the  westward  in  a  low  latitude,  wo 
passed  to  the  eastward  of  Bird  Island,  and  gained  the  latitud(^  of 
'■210  N.  In  this  parallel  we  found  the  trade  much  fresher,  though 
more  variahle,  and  more  subject  to  interruption,  than  within  the 
tropic ;  we  had  also  the  advantage  of  a  more  temperate  climate,  of 
which  we  stood  in  need,  as  tlie  sickness  among  the  ship's  company 
was  so  far  from  being  removed,  that  on  the  Kith  we  had  the  mis- 
fortune to  lose  one  of  the  marines.  On  this  day  we  sjjoke  the  Tus- 
can, an  English  whaleship,  and  found  that  on  quitting  the  Sandwich 
Islands  her  crew  had  suffered  in  the  same  way  as  our  own,  but  liad 
since  quite  recovered.  In  all  probability  the  sudden  change  of  diet 
from  the  usual  seafare  to  so  much  vegetable  food,  added  to  the  heat 
and  humidity  of  the  atmosphere  at  the  season  in  which  our  visits 
were  made  to  those  islands,  was  the  cause  of  the  sickness  of  both 
vessels.  The  master  of  the  Tuscan  informed  me  that  the  preced- 
ing year  his  ship's  company  had  been  so  severely  afflicted  with 
disease  that  he  found  it  necessary  to  put  into  Loo  Choo,  where  he 
was  well  received,  and  his  people  were  treated  with  the  greatest 
kindness.  He  was  supplied  with  fresh  meat  and  vegetables  daily, 
without  being  allowed  to  make  any  other  payment  than  that  of  a  chart 
of  the  world,  which  was  the  only  thing  the  natives  would  accept, 
It  was,  however,  not  without  the  usual  observance  of  narrow-minded 
Chinese  policy,  that  himself  and  his  invalid  crew  were  allowed  to 
set  their  feet  on  shore,  and  even  then  they  were  always  attended  by 
a  party  of  the  natives,  and  had  a  piece  of  ground  bordering  on  the 
beach  fenced  off" for  them.  The  salute  which  the  Alceste  and  Lyra 
had  fired  on  the  25th  of  October,  was  well  remembered  by  these 
people,  and  they  had  an  idea  that  it  was  an  annual  ceremony  per- 
formed in  commemoration  of  something  connected  with  the  king  of 
England.  On  the  return  of  this  day,  during  the  Tuscan's  visit,  they 
concluded  that  the  ship  would  observe  the  same  ceremony,  and 
looked  forward  with  such  anxiety  and  delight  to  the  event,  that  the 
master  of  the  whaler  was  obliged  to  rub  up  his  four  patereros,  and 
go  through  the  salute  without  any  intermission,  as  the  Loochooans 
counted  the  guns  as  they  were  fired. 

A  few  hours  after  wp  parted  with  the  Tuscan,  we  fell  in  with  two 
other  whale  ships,  neither  of  which  could  spare  us  any  provisions. 
These  ships  were  no  doubt  fishing  down  a  parallel  of  latitude,  which 
is  a  common  custom,  unless  they  find  a  continued  scarcity  of  whales, 
The  30th  degree,  I  beheve,  is  rather  a  favourite  one  with  them. 

Tei»days  after  our  departure  from  Oneehow  we  lost  the  trade 
wind  in  latitude  30°  N.  and  longitude  195°  W. :  it  had  been  varia- 
ble before  this,  but  had  not  fairly  deserted  us.  Its  failure  was  of  lit- 
tle consequence,  as  in  three  days  afterwards  we  were  far  enough  to 
the  westward  to  ensure  the  remainder  of  the  passage ;  and  indeed 


18-^6.] 


AND  BEERINo'k  KTHAIT. 


205 


from  the  winds  which  ensued,  a  course  might  as  well  have  been  sha- 
ped for  Kamschatka  on  the  day  we  lost  the  wind. 

On  the  3d  of  June,  the  day  after  leaving  Oneehow,  in  latitude 
25"  N.  and  longitude  160°  15'  W.,  we  saw  large  flocks  of  tern  and 
noddies,  and  a  few  gannets  and  tropic  birds,  also  boneta,  and  shoals 
of  flying-fish;  and  on  the  5th,  in  latitude  28°  10'  N.  and  longitude 
172°  20'  W.,  we  had  similar  indications  of  the  proximity  of  land. 
Though  such  appearances  are  by  no  means  infallible,  yet  as  so  many 
coral  islands  have  recently  been  discovered  to  the  W.  N.  W.  of  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  ships  in  passing  these  places  should  not  be  regard- 
less of  them.  On  this  day  we  observed  an  albatross  (diomedia  ex- 
ulans),  the  first  we  had  seen  since  quitting  the  coasi  of  Chili.  It  is 
remarkable  that  Captain  King,  in  his  passage  to  Kamschatka,  first 
met  these  birds  within  thirty  miles  of  the  same  spot.  We  noticed 
about  this  time  a  change  in  the  colour  of  the  wings  of  the  flying- 
fish,  and  on  one  of  the  species  being  caught  it  was  found  to  differ 
from  the  common  exocectus  volitans.  We  continued  to  see  these 
fish  occasionally  as  far  as  30°  N.,  about  which  time  the  tern  also 
quitted  us.  In  33°  N.  we  first  met  the  birds  of  the  northen  regions, 
\\\e  proceUariapuffinus,  but  it  was  not  until  we  were  within  a  hun- 
dred miles  of  the  coast  of  Kamschatka  that  we  saw  the  lumme,  do- 
vekic,  rotge,  and  other  alca,  and  the  shag.  The  tropic  birds  ac- 
companied us  as  far  as  36°  N. 

On  the  18th  and  19th,  m  latitude  35°  N.,  longitude  194°  30'  W., 
we  made  some  experiments  on  the  temperature  of  the  sea  at  inter- 
mediate depths,  as  low  as  760  fathoms,  where  it  was  found  to  be 
twenty-eight  degrees  colder  than  at  the  surface  ;  two  days  afterwards 
another  series  was  obtained,  by  which  it  appeared  that  the  temper- 
ature at  180  fathoms  was  as  cold  as  that  at  500  fathoms  on  the  for 
mer  occasion,  and  it  was  twenty  degrees  colder  at  380  fathoms  on 
this,  than  it  was  at  760  fathoms  on  the  other.     Between  these  ex- 
periments we  entered  a  thick  fog,  which  continued  until  we  were 
close  off  the  Kamschatka  coast ;  and  we  also  experienced  a  change 
of  current,  both  of  which,  no  doubt  contributed  towards  the  change 
of  temperature  of  the  sea,  which  was  much  greater  than  could  have 
been  produced  by  the  alteration  in  the  situation  of  the  ship  :  the  fog 
by  obstructing  the  radiation  of  heat,  and  the  current  by  bringing  a 
colder  medium  from  higher  latitudes.     About  this  period  we  began 
to  see  drift  wood,  some  of  which  passed  us  almost  daily.     The  sea 
was  occasionally  strewed  with  moluscous  animals,  principally  heroes 
and  nereis,  among  which  on  the  1 9th  were  a  great  many  small  crabs  of 
a  curious  species.     Whether  it  was  that  these  animals  preferred  the 
foggy  weather,  or  that  we  more  narrowly  scrutinized  the  small  space 
of  water  around  us  to  which  our  view  was  limited,  I  cannot  say,  but 
it  appeared  to  us  that  they  were  much  more  numerous  while  the 
fog  lasted  than  before  or  afterwards. 


f 


9 

wiirf 

/' 

lllMIHl¥jn^ 

% 

iRyvi 

l^niviRf 

» 

1w^^ 

(\ 

Ift  w  V|^  j| 

"f 

Inliluit 

•    f 

jwH|H|l 

/ 


^. 


I 


"^ 


'206 


VOYAGK  TO  TUE  PACIFIC 


[June, 


\h> 


In  tlio  afternoon  of  tlie  23tl,  in  latitude  44°  N.,  the  wind,  whicli 
had  been  at  S.  W.,  drew  round  to  tlie  west,  and  brought  a  cold  at- 
mosphere, in  whicli  the  thermometer  fell  fourteen  degrees  ;  it  i^ 
remarkable  that  sixteen  hours  before  this  change  occurred,  the  tem- 
perature of  the  sea  fell  six  degrees,  while  that  of  the  atmosphere 
was  affected  only  four  hours  previous.  In  my  remarks  on  our  pas- 
sage round  Cape  Horn,  I  have  mentioned  the  frequency  with  whicli 
the  temperature  of  the  surface  of  the  sea  was  affected  before  that 
of  the  atmosphere  when  material  changes  of  wind  were  about  to 


occur. 


On  the  '/i6th,  in  latitude  49"  N  ,  after  having  traversed  nearly 
seven  hundred  miles  in  so  thick  a  fog  that  we  could  scarcely  see 
fifty  yards  from  us,  a  north-east  wind  cleared  the  horizon  for  a  few 
hours  :  this  change  again  produced  a  sensible  diminution  of  the  tem- 
perature, which  was  thirty-one  degrees  lower  than  it  had  been  tliir- 
teen  days  previous.  The  next  day  we  had  the  satisfaction  of  see- 
ing the  high  mountains  of  Kamschatka,  which  at  a  distance  are  tlie 
best  guides  to  the  port  of  Awatska.  The  eastern  mountain,  situated 
twenty-five  miles  from  Petropaulski,is  7.375  feet  high  by  my  trig- 
onometrical measurinent ;  another,  which  is  the  highest,  situated  N. 
5o  E.  from  the  same  place,  and  a  little  to  the  northward  of  a  siiort 
range  upon  which  tliere  is  a  volcano  in  constant  action,  is  11.500 
feet  high.  At  eight  o'clock  we  distinguished  Cape  Gavarea,  the 
southern  point  of  a  deep  bay  in  which  the  harbour  of  Petropaulski 
is  situated,  and  the  same  evening  we  were  becalmed  within  six  miles 
of  our  port.  Nothing  could  surpass  the  serenity  of  the  evening  or 
the  magnificence  of  the  mountains  capped  with  perennial  snows,  ris- 
ing in  majestic  array  above  each  other.  The  volcano  emitted  smoke 
at  intervals,  and  from  a  sprinkling  of  black  dots  on  the  snow  to  lee- 
ward of  the  crater,  we  concluded  there  had  been  a  recent  eruption. 

At  two  o'clock  the  following  afternoon  we  anchored  off  the  town 
of  Petropaulski,  and  found  lying  in  the  inner  harbour  his  imperial 
majesty's  ship  Modesto,  commanded  by  Baron  Wrangel,  an  enter- 
prising officer,  well  known  to  the  world  as  the  commander  of  a  haz- 
ardous expedition  on  sledges  over  the  ice  to  the  northward  of 
Schelatskoi  Noss 

I  found  despatclies  awaiting  my  arrival,  communicating  the  return 
of  the  expedition  ui^Jer  Captain  Parry,  and  desiring  me  to  cancel 
that  part  of  my  instructions  which  related  to  him.  The  officers,  on 
landing  at  the  little  town  of  Petropaulski,  met  with  a  very  polite  re- 
ception from  the  governor,  Stanitski,  a  captain  in  the  Russian  navy, 
who,  during  our  short  stay  in  port,  laid  us  under  many  obligations 
for  articles  of  the  most  acceptable  kind  to  seamen  after  a  long  voy- 
age. I  regretted  extremely  that  confinement  to  my  cabin  at  this 
time  prevented  my  having  the  pleasure  of  making  either  his  acquaint- 


j|p& 


[June, 


1926.] 


AND  BEF.RINO  S  BTHAIT. 


207 


ind,  which 
a  cold  iii- 
rees ;  it  is 
id,  the  tcin- 
atmosphere 
on  our  pas- 
with  which 
before  that 
•e  about  to 

Tsed  nearly 
icarcely  sec 
)n  for  a  few 
\  of  the  tcin- 
id  been  thir- 
;tion  of  bce- 
ance  are  tlie 
tain,  situated 
by  my  trig- 
;,  situated  N. 
ivd  of  a  sliort 
3n,  is  11.500 
Gavarea,  the 
Petropaulski 
ithin  six  miles 
3  evening  or 
al  snows,  ris- 
mitted  smoke 
snow  to  lee- 
;ent  eruption, 
off  the  town 
his  imperial 
el,  an  enter- 
ider  of  a  haz- 
lorthward  of 

igthe  return 
le  to  cancel 
he  officers,  on 
rery  polite  re- 
Lussian  navy, 
ly  obligations 
a  long  voy- 
:abin  at  this 
I  his  acquaint- 


ance or  that  of  the  pastor  of  Paraiounka,  of  whose  ancestor  such 
honourable  mention  lias  been  made  in  the  voyages  of  Captain  Cook, 
a  pleasure  which  was  reserved  for  the  follow  ing  year.  Tlio  worthy 
pastor,  in  strict  compliance  with  the  injunctions  of  his  grandfather, 
that  he  should  send  a  calf  to  the  captain  of  every  English  man  of 
war  that  might  arrive  in  the  port,  presented  me  with  one  of  ids  own 
rearing,  and  sent  daily  supplies  of  milk,  butter,  and  curd.  Had  our 
stay  in  this  excellent  harbour  permitted,  we  should  have  received  a 
supply  of  oxen,  which  would  have  been  most  acceptable  to  the  sliip's 
company  ;  but  the  animals  had  to  be  driven  from  Bolcheresk,  and, 
pressed  as  wo  were  for  time,  too  great  a  delay  would  have  been  in- 
curred in  waiting  for  them.  The  colony  at  this  time  was  as  much 
distressed  for  provisions  as  ourselves,  and  was  even  worse  off,  in  con- 
sequence of  tlie  inferior  quality  of  the  articles. 

On  the  1st  of  July  we  weighed  and  attempted  to  put  to  sea,  but 
after  experiencing  the  difficulties  of  which  several  navigators  have 
complained,  were  obliged  to  anchor  again,  and  that  at  too  great  a 
distance  from  the  town  to  have  any  communication. 

On  the  2nd,  as  well  as  on  the  3rd,  we  also  weighed,  but  were 
obliged  to  ancl.>jr  as  before  ;  and  it  was  not  until  the  5th,  after  weigh- 
ing and  anchoring  twice  that  morning,  to  prevent  going  ashore, 
that  the  ship  reached  the  outside  of  the  harbour;  this  difficulty  aris- 
es from  counter  currents,  which  prevent  the  steerage  of  the  ship. 
After  clearing  the  harbour  there  was  a  strong  wind  against  us,  but 
it  soon  died  entirely  away,  and  left  us  exposed  to  a  heavy  swell, 
which  rolled  with  great  violence  upon  the  shore;  so  much  so,  that  for 
some  time  the  boats  were  insufficient  to  prevent  the  ship  nearing 
the  land,  and  there  was  no  anchorage,  in  consequence  of  the  great 
depth  of  water :  fortunately,  towards  night  a  light  air  favoured  our 
departure,  and  we  succeeded  in  getting  an  offing. 

My  object  was  now  to  make  the  best  of  my  way  to  Kotzebue 
Sound,  as  there  were  but  fourteen  days  left  before  the  arrival  of  the 
appointed  time  of  rendezvous  there,  and  every  effort  was  directed 
towards  that  end.  As  we  sailed  across  the  wide  bay  in  which  Pet- 
ropaulski is  situated,  we  connected  the  capes  at  its  extremities  with 
the  port  and  intermediate  objects,  by  which  it  appears  that  Cape 
Gavarea  has  hitherto  been  erroneously  placed  with  regard  to  Ch.'^p- 
oonski  Noss;  but  I  shall  not  here  interrupt  the  narrative  by  the  in- 
sertion of  the  particulars  of  the  operations. 

At  day-light  the  following  morning,  Chepoonski  Noss  was  seen 
N.  19°  W.,  and  in  the  afternoon  of  the  next  day  high  land  was  dis- 
cerned from  the  mast-head  in  the  direction  of  Krotnoi  Mountain. 
This  was  the  last  view  we  had  of  Kamschatka,  as  a  thick  fog  came 
on,  and  attended  us  to  Beering's  Island. 
At  day-light  on  the  lOth  a  high  rock  was  seen  about  nine  miles 


tj 


yi 


^ 


h'   i 


r'-'l 

li 

'vil 

fJI 

t.,\  |f|  i'v 

"'  *jl'-4^"i 

•'>  1^,, 

<t^  |h\ 

U\ 

if'  1 

f   V 

mm 

il 

i 

\  imi 

i 

i 

1  ^K  nU,  1 

1 

•   ^1 


s 

I 


..IJ 


208 


VOYAGE  TO  THE    PACIFIC 


[Juhj, 


m 


h    ' 


off,  and  shortly  afterwards  Beerin^'s  Island  appeai'ed  through  the  fog. 
When  we  had  reached  close  in  with  the  land  the  mist  partially  dis- 
persed, and  exposed  to  our  view  a  moderately  high  island,  armed 
with  rocky  points.  The  snow  rested  in  ridges  upon  the  hills,  but 
the  lower  parts  of  the  island  were  quite  hare,  and  presented  a 
green  mossy  appearance,  without  a  single  shrub  to  relieve  its  mono- 
tony. Its  dreary  aspect,  associated  with  the  recollection  of  the 
catastrophe  that  befel  Beering  and  his  shipmates,  who  were  cast 
upon  its  shores  on  the  approach  of  winter  with  their  own  resources 
ey.haufi,ed,  produced  an  involuntary  shudder.  The  bay  in  which 
this  catastrophe  occurred  is  on  the  north  side  of  the  island,  on 
a  part  of  the  coast  which  fortunately  afforded  fresh  water,  and 
abounded  in  stone  foxes,  sea  otters,  and  moor-hens  ;  and  where  there 
was  a  quantity  of  drift  wood  washed  upon  the  shore,  which  served 
for  the  construction  of  huts  ;  but  notwithstanding  these  resources, 
the  commander  Vitus  Beering,  and  twenty-nine  of  the  crew,  found 
their  graves  on  this  desolate  spot.  The  island  is  now  visited  occa- 
sionally by  the  Russians  for  the  skins  of  the  sea  otter  and  black 
fox.  The  highest  part  of  the  island  which  we  saw  was  towards  its 
N.  W.  extremity,  from  whence  the  shore  slopes  gradually  to  the 
coast,  and  is  terminated  by  cliffs.  At  the  foot  of  these  are  low  rocky 
flats,  which  can  only  be  seen  when  quite  close  to  them,  and  outside 
again  are  breakers.  Off  the  western  point  these  reefs  extend  about 
two  niiles  from  the  shore,  and  off  the  northern,  about  a  mile  and  a 
quarter,  so  that  on  the  whole  it  is  a  dangerous  coast  to  approach  in 
thick  weather.  The  rock  first  seen  was  situated  five  miles  and  a 
half  off  shore,  and  was  so  crowded  with  seals  basking  upon  it,  that  it 
was  immediately  named  Seal  Rock.* 

To  the  northward  of  this  there  were  several  small  bays  in  the 
coast,  which  promised  tolerably  good  anchorage,  particularly  one  to- 
wards the  eastern  part  of  the  indentation  in  the  coast  line,  off  which 
there  was  a  small  low  island  or  projecting  point  of  land.  This,  in  all 
probability,  is  the  harbour  alluded  to  by  Krenitzen,  as  there  were 
near  it  "  two  small  hillocks  like  boats  with  their  keels  upwards." 

We  did  not  see  the  south-eastern  part  of  this  island,  as  it  was  ob- 
scured by  fog,  but  sailed  along  the  southern  and  western  shores  as 
circumstances  permitted  until  seven  in  the  evening,  when  we  got 
out  of  the  region  of  clear  weather,  which  usually  obtains  in  the  vi- 
cinity or  leeward  of  land  in  these  seas,  and  entered  a  thick  fog. 
With  the  summer  characteristics  of  this  latitude — fine  weather  and 
a  thick  fog — we  advanced  to  the  northward,  attended  by  a  great 

•  Kotzebue  observes  in  his  narrative  that  "  this  rock  li  s  not  been  laid  down  in  any 
chart :"  1  presume  he  alludes  tu  those  which  are  modern,  as  on  a  reference  to  the 
mnn  of  Captain  Krenitzcn's  discoveries  in  1768,  it  will  be  found  occupyinff  its  prop- 
er place. 


**>' 
^r,' 


1826.] 


AND  BEERINO  S  STRAIT. 


209 


many  birds,  nearly  all  of  the  same  kind  as  those  which  n.hahit  the 
Greenland  Sea,  shecrwaters,  lunimes,  puflins,  parasitic  g;ulls,  :torniy 
petrel,  dusky  albatross,  a  iarus  resembling  the  kittiwakc,  a  small 
dove-coloured  tern,  and  shags.  In  latitude  60°  47'  N.  we  noticed 
a  change  in  the  colour  of  the  water,  and  on  sounding  found  fifty-four 
fathoms,  soft  blue  clay.  From  that  time  until  we  took  our  final  de- 
parture from  this  sea  the  bottom  was  always  within  reach  of  our 
common  lines.  The  water  shoaled  so  gradually  that  a.  midniglit  on 
the  16th,  after  having  run  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  we  had  tliirty- 
one  fathoms.  Here  the  ground  changed  from  mud  tos.ad,  and  ap- 
prized us  of  our  approach  to  the  Island  of  St.  Lawrence,  which  on 
the  following  morning  was  so  close  to  us  that  we  could  hear  the  surf 
upon  the  rocks.  The  fog  was  at  the  same  time  so  '' "  '  that  we 
could  not  see  the  shore  ;  and  ii  was  not  until  some  t  ;rwards, 

when  we  had  neared  the  land  by  means  of  a  long  gn  >vell,  for 

it  was  quite  calm,  that  we  discerned  the  tops  of  the  1 

It  is  a  fortunate  circumstance  that  the  dangers  in  tiijse  seas  are 
not  numerous,  otherwise  the  prevalence  of  fogs  in  the  summer  time 
would  render  the  navigation  extremely  hazardous.  About  noon  we 
were  enabled  to  see  some  little  distance  around  us  ;  and,  as  we  ex- 
pected, the  ship  was  close  off  the  western  extremity  of  St.  Law- 
rence Island.  In  this  situation  the  nearest  hills,  which  were  about 
five  hundred  feet  above  the  sea,  v.  ?  observed  to  be  surmounted  by 
large  fragments  of  rock  having  the  appearance  of  ruins.  These  hills 
terminate  to  the  southward  and  south-westward  in  bold  rocky  cliffs, 
off  which  are  situated  three  small  islands  ;  the  hills  have  a  gradual 
slope  to  the  coast  line  to  the  northward  and  westward ;  but  at  the 
north-western  extremity  of  the  island  they  end  in  a  remarkable 
uodge-shaped  promontory — particulo'-s  which  may  be  found  useful 
to  navigators  in  foggy  weather.  The  upper  parts  of  the  island  were 
buried  in  snow  ;  but  the  lower,  as  at  Beering's  Island,  we^e  bai9  and 
overgrown  with  moss  or  grass.  We  stood  close  into  a  small  bay  at 
the  S.  W.  angl>  of  the  island,  where  we  perceived  several  tents, 
and  where,  from  the  many  stakes  driven  into  the  ground,  we  con- 
cluded there  was  a  li^hing-station.  The  natives  soon  afterwards 
launched  four  baidars,*  of  which  each  contained  eight  persons,  males 
and  females.  They  paddled  towards  the  ship  with  great  quickness, 
until  they  were  within  speaking  distance,  when  an  old  man  who 
steered  the  foremost  boat  stood  erect,  and  held  up  in  succession  nets, 
walrus  teeth,  skin  shirts,  harpoons,  bows  and  arrows  and  small  birds  ; 
he  then  extended  his  arms,  rubbed  and  patted  his  breast,t  and  came 


♦  Tliia  boat,  called  by  the  natives  oomiac,  ia  the  same  in  cv  -  ry  respect  as  the  oomi- 
ar,  or  woman  boat,  of  the  Esquimaux.  It  is  here  used  by  tbo  men  instead  of  the 
women. 

t  This  is  the  ususal  EsqiiamauK  indication  of  friendship. 

27 


><\ 


210 


VOYAGE  TO  THE   TACIFIC 


[July, 


II] 


m 


t 

m 


liiiJ 


fearlessly  alongside.  We  instantly  detected  in  these  people  the  fea- 
tures of  the  Esquimaux,  whom  in  appearance  and  manners  also,  and 
indeed  in  every  particular,  they  so  much  resembled,  that  tlierc  can- 
not, I  think,  be  the  least  doubt  of  their  having  the  same  origin. 
They  were  if  any  thing  less  dirty,  and  somewhat  fairer,  and  their 
implements  were  better  made.  Their  dress,  though  Esquimaux, 
differed  a  little  from  it  in  the  skin  shirts  being  ornamented  with  tas- 
sels, after  the  manner  of  the  Oonalashka  people,  and  in  the  boots 
fitting  the  leg,  instead  of  being  adapted  to  the  reception  of  either  oil 
or  infants. 

The  old  men  had  a  few  gray  hairs  on  their  chins,  but  the  young 
ones,  though  grown  up,  were  beardless.  Many  had  their  heads 
shaved  round  the  crown,  after  the  fashion  of  the  Tschutschi,  the 
Otaheitans,  or  the  Roman  Catholic  priesthood  in  Europe,  and  all 
had  their  hair  cut  short.  Their  manner  of  salutation  was  by  rub- 
bing their  noses  against  ours,  and  drawing  the  palms  of  their  hands 
over  our  faces ;  but  we  were  not  favoured  as  Kotzebue  w-n,  by  theii 
being  previously  spit  upon.  In  the  stern  of  one  of  th;  bai''  '"TLeie 
was  a  very  entertaining  old  lady,  who  amused  us  by  •!  •   •  in 

which  she  tried  to  impose  upon  our  credulity.  She  wa<  seated 
upon  a  bag  of  peltry,  from  which  she  now  and  then  cautiously  drew 
out  a  skin,  and  exhibited  the  best  part  of  it,  with  a  look  implying 
that  it  was  of  great  value ;  she  repeatedly  hugged  it,  and  endeav- 
oured to  coax  her  new  acquaintances  into  a  good  bargain,  but  her 
furs  were  scarcely  worth  purchasing.  She  was  tattooed  in  curved 
lines  along  the  sides  of  the  cheek,  the  outer  one  extending  from  the 
lower  jpw,  over  the  temple  and  eyebrow. 

Our  visiters  on  board  were  not  less  accomplished  adepts  at  bar- 
tering than  the  old  woman,  and  sold  almost  every  thing  they  had. 
With  the  men,  "  tawac,"  as  they  called  our  tobacco,  was  their  great 
object;  and  with  the  women,  needles  and  scissors;  but  with  both, 
blue  beads  were  articles  highl_y  esteemed.  We  observed,  that  they 
put  ?ome  of  these  to  tlie  test,  by  biting  them  to  ascertain  whethev 
they  were  glass ;  having,  perhaps,  been  served  with  wax  ones  h 
some  of  their  former  visiters. 

Their  implements  were  so  similar  to  those  of  the  Esquimaux  as 
to  need  no  description ;  except  that  their  bows  partook  of  the 
Tschutschi  form.  They  had  a  great  many  small  birds  o*"  the  alca 
crestatella,  strung  upon  thongs  of  hide,  which  were  highly  accepta- 
ble to  us,  as  they  were  very  palatable  in  a  pie.  These  birds  are, 
I  believe,  peculiar  to  St.  Lawrence  Island,  and  in  proceeding  up 
the  strait  their  j)resence  is  a  tolerably  certain  indication  of  the  vicin- 
ity of  the  islan  ).  They  are  vciy  numerous,  and  must  be  easily 
taken  by  the  iiatives,  as  they  sold  seven  dozen  for  a  single  neck' 
of  blue  glass  beads. 

About  seven  o'clock  in  the  evening,  the  nativv.0  quitted  us  rat'it' 


.•% 


*L^SP, 


%.    -t^ 


1826.] 


AND    BEERING  S    STRAIT. 


211 


abruptly,  and  hastened  toward  the  shore,  in  conseque.ice  of  an  ap- 
proaching fog,  which  their  experience  enabled  them  to  foresee  sooner 
than  us,  who,  having  a  compass  to  rely  upon,  were  less  anxious 
about  the  matter.  We  soon  lost  sight  of  every  distant  object,  and 
directed  our  course  along  the  land,  trying  the  depth  of  water  occa- 
sionally. The  bottom  was  tolerably  even ;  but  we  decreased  the 
soundings  to  nine  fathoms,  about  four  miles  off  the  western  point, 
and  changed  the  ground  from  fine  sand,  to  stones  and  shingle. 
When  we  had  passed  the  wedged-shaped  cliff  at  the  north-western 
point  of  the  island,  the  soundings  again  deepened,  and  changed  to 
sand,  as  at  first. 

At  night  the  fog  cleared  away  for  a  short  time,  and  we  saw  the 
Asiatic  coast  about  Tschukutskoi  Noss ;  but  it  soon  returned,  and 
with  it  a  light  air  in  the  contrary  direction  to  our  course.  The  next 
clay,  as  we  could  make  ro  progress,  the  trawl  was  put  overboard,  in 
the  hope  of  providing  a  fresii  meal  for  the  ship's  company  ;  but  after 
remaining  down  a  considerable  time,  it  came  up  with  only  a  sculpen 
{cottxis  scorpius),  a  few  specimens  of  moluscae,  and  crustaceaj,  con- 
sisting principally  of  maias.  In  the  evening.  Lieutenant  Peard  was 
more  successful  in  procuring  specimens  with  the  dredge,  which  sup- 
plied I'.s  with  a  great  variety  of  invertebral  animals,  consisting  of 
asterias  holothurias,  echini,  amphitrites,  ascidias,  actinias,  euryales, 
murex,  chiton  crinitus,  nereides,  maias,  gammarus,  and  pagurus,  the 
latter  inhabiting  chiefly  old  shells  of  the  murex  genus.  This  was 
in  seventeen  fathoms  over  a  muddy  bottom,  several  leagues  from 
the  island. 

About  noon  the  fog  dispersed,  and  we  saw  nearly  the  whole  ex- 
tent of  the  St.  Lawrence  Island,  from  the  N.  W.  cape  we  had  roun- 
ded the  preceding  night  to  the  point  near  which  Cook  reached  close 
in  with,  after  his  departure  from  Norton  Sound.  The  middle  of 
this  island  was  so  low,  that  to  us  it  appeared  to  be  divided,  and  I 
concluded,  as  both  Cook  and  Clerke  had  done  before,  that  it  was 
<<o ;  circumstances  did  not,  however,  admit  of  my  making  this  ex- 
rniination,  and  the  connexion  of  the  two  islands  was  left  for  the 
'Mcovery  of  Captain  Schismareff  of  the  Russian  navy.  The  hills 
sitMated  upon  the  eastern  part  of  the  island,  to  which  Cook  gave 
iiie  name  of  his  companion  Captain  Clerke,  are  the  highes,';  part  of 
St.  Lawrence  Island,  and  were  ot  this  time  deeply  buried  in  snow. 

The  current  off  here,  on  one  tr!al,  ran  N.  E.  five-eighths  of  a  mile 
per  hour,  and  on  another,  N.  60'' E  se^en-eigthths  of  a  mile  per 
hour;  as  observations  ou  this  interesting  subject  were  repeatedly 
made. 

Favoured  with  a  fair  wind,  on  the  1 9th  we  saw  King's  Island  ; 
which,  though  small,  is  high  and  rugged,  and  has  low  land  at  its 
base,  with  apparrently  breakers  off  its  south  extreme. 


'4.   i 


V 

..-.4?" 


n  t 


212 


VOYACK  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[J^iiy, 


UJ 


i 


Kf» 


IL 


We  had  now  advanced  sufficiently  far  to  the  northward  to  carry 
on  our  operations  at  midnight ;  an  advantage  in  the  navigation  of 
an  unfrequented  sea  which  often  precludes  the  necesssity  oflyingto. 

We  approached  the  strait  which  separates  the  two  great  con- 
tinents of  Asia  and  America,  on  one  of  those  beautiful  still  nights, 
well  known  to  all  who  have  visited  the  arctic  regions,  when  the  sky 
is  without  a  cLud,  and  when  the  midnight  sun,  scarcely  his  own  di- 
ameter below  the  horizon,  tinges  with  a  bright  hue  all  the  northern 
circle.  Our  ship,  propelled  by  an  increasing  breeze,  glided  rapidly 
along  a  smooth  sea,  startling  from  her  path  flocks  of  lumnies  and 
dovekies,  and  other  aquatic  birds,  whose  flight  could,  from  the  still- 
ness of  the  scene,  be  traced  by  the  ear  to  a  considerable  distance. 
Our  rate  of  sailing,  however,  by  no  means  kept  pace  with  our  anx- 
iety that  the  fog,  which  usually  succeeds  a  fine  day  in  high  latitudes, 
should  hold  ofi"  until  we  had  decided  a  geographical  question  of  some 
5  r  ■ '  nee,  as  connected  with  the  memory  of  the  immortal  Cook. 
'1.  xellent  navigator,  in  his  discoveries  of  these  seas,  placed 
thret  -olands  in  the  middle  of  the  strait  (the  Diomede  Islands). 
Kotzebue,  however,  in  passing  them,  fancied  he  saw  a  fourth,  and 
conjectured  that  it  must  have  been  either  overlooked  by  Cook  and 
Gierke,  or  that  it  had  been  since  raised  by  an  earthquake.* 

As  we  proceeded,  the  land  on  the  south  side  of  St.  Lawrence 
Bay  made  its  appearance  first,  and  next  the  lofty  mountains  at  the 
back  of  Cape  Prince  of  Wales,  then  hill  after  hill  rose  alternately 
on  either  bow,  curiously  refracted,  and  assuming  all  the  varied  forms 
which  that  phenomenon  of  the  atmosphere  is  known  to  occasion. 
At  last,  at  the  distance  of  fifty  miles,  the  Diomede  Islands,  and  the 
eastern  Cape  of  Asia,  rose  above  the  horizon  of  our  mast-head. 
But,  as  if  to  teach  us  the  necessity  of  patience  in  the  sea  we  were 
about  to  navigate,  before  we  had  determined  the  question,  a  tliick 
fog  enveloped  every  thing  in  obscurity.  We  continued  to  run  on, 
assisted  by  a  strong  northerly  current,  until  seven  o'clock  the  next 
morning,  when  the  western  Diomede  was  seen  through  the  fog  close 
to  us. 

In  our  passage  from  the  St.  Lawrence  Island  to  this  situprion, 
the  depth  of  the  sea  increased  a  little,  until  to  the  northward  of 
King's  Island,  after  which  it  began  to  decrease  ;  but  in  the  vicini- 
ty of  the  Diomede  Islands,  where  the  sfrait  became  narrowed,  it 
again  deepened,  and  continued  between  twenty-five  and  twenty-sev- 
en fathoms.  The  bottom,  until  close  to  the  Diomedes,  was  com- 
posed of  fine  sand,  but  near  them  it  changed  to  course  stones  and 

♦  Some  doubt,  it  appears,  was  created  in  the  minds  of  the  Russians  themselves  as 
to  thia  supposed  discovery,  as  we  understood  at  Petropauleki,  that  a  large  wager 
depending  upon  it. 


13-26.] 


AND  BEERIKg's  STllAIT. 


213 


gravel,  as  at  St.  Lawrence  Island ;  transitions  which,  by  being  at- 
tended to,  may  be  of  service  to  navigators  in  foggy  weather. 

During  the  day  we  saw  a  great  number  rf  whales,  seals,  and  birds ; 
but  none,  I  believe,  that  are  not  mentioned  in  Pennant's  Arctic 
Zoology. 

We  noticed  upon  the  island  abreast  of  us,  which  we  conjectured 
to  be  the  westernmost  Diomede,  several  tents  and  yourts,  and  also 
two  or  three  baidars,  hauled  upon  the  beach.  On  the  declivity  of 
the  hill  were  several  frames,  apparently  for  drybg  fish  and  skins, 
and  depositing  canoes  and  sledges  upon.  It  was  nearly  calm  when 
we  were  off  this  place,  but  the  current,  which  still  ran  to  the  north- 
ward carried  us  fast  along  the  land.  I  steered  for  the  situation  of 
the  supposed  additional  island,  until  by  our  reckoning  we  ought  to 
have  been  upon  it,  and  then  hauled  over  towards  the  American 
shore.  In  the  evening  the  fog  cleared  away,  and  our  curiosity  was 
at  last  satisfied.  The  extremities  of  the  two  great  continents  were 
distinctly  seen,  and  the  islands  in  the  strait  clearly  ascertained  to  be 
only  three  in  number,  and  occupying  nearly  the  same  situations  in 
which  they  were  placed  in  the  chart  of  Captain  Cook. 

The  south-eastern  of  the  three  islands  is  a  high  square  rock ;  the 
next,  or  middle  one,  is  an  island  with  perpendicular  cliffs,  and  aflat 
surface ;  and  the  third,  or  north-western,  which  is  the  lai'gest,  is 
three  miles  long,  high  to  the  southward,  and  terminates,  in  the  op- 
posite direction,  in  low  cliffs  with  small  rocky  points  off  them. 
East  Cape,  in  almost  every  direction,  is  so  like  an  island,  that  I  have 
no  doubt  it  was  the  occasion  of  the  mistake  which  the  Russian  nav- 


il^ator  has  committed. 


For  the  sake  of  convenience,  I  named  each  of  these  islands.  The 
eastern  one  I  called  Fairway  Rock,  as  it  is  an  excellent  guide  to 
the  eastern  channel,  which  is  the  widest  and  the  best ;  the  centre 
one  I  named  after  the  Russian  Admiral  Krusenstern ;  and  to  the 
north-western  island  I  transferred  the  name  of  Ratmanoff,  which 
had  been  bestowed  upon  the  supposed  discovery  of  Kotzebue.  we 
remarked  that  the  Asiatic  shore  was  more  buried  in  snow  than  the 
American.  The  mountains  in  the  one  were  entirely  covered ;  in 
the  other,  they  were  streaked,  and  partly  exposed.  The  low  land 
of  both  on  the  coast  was  nearly  bare. 

Near  the  Asiatic  coast  we  had  a  sandy  bottom,  but,  in  crossing 
over  the  strait,  it  changed  to  mud,  until  well  over  on  the  American 
side,  where  we  passed  a  tongue  of  sand  and  stones  in  twelve  fathoms 
which,  in  all  probability,  was  the  extremity  of  a  shoal,  on  which  the 
ship  was  nearly  lost  the  succeeding  year.  After  crossing  it,  the  wa- 
ter deepened,  and  the  bottom  again  changed  to  mud,  and  we  had 
ten  and  a  half  fathoms  within  two  and  a  half  miles  of  the  coast. 

We  closed  with  the  American  shore,  a  few  miles  to  the  northward 


*■•  ^' 


f .  f 


"  1)1 


I 


if 


'4i4 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Jidi/, 


m 


f 


of  Cape  Prince  of  Wales,  and  found  the  coast  low,  with  a  ridge  of 
sand  extending  iilong  it,  on  which  we  noticed  several  Esquimaux 
habitations.  Steering  along  this  shore  to  the  northward,  in  ten  and 
eight  fathoms  water,  a  little  before  noon  we  were  within  four  and  a 
half  miles  of  Schismareff  Inlet.  Here  we  were  becalmed,  and  had 
leisure  to  observe  the  broadsheet  of  water  that  extends  inland  in  an 
E.  S.  E.  direction  beyond  the  reach  of  the  eye.*  The  width  of  the 
inlet  between  the  two  capes  is  ten  miles  ;  but  SaritchefF  Island  lies 
immediately  before  the  opening,  and  we  are  informed  by  Kotzebue, 
that  the  channel,  which  is  on  the  northern  side  of  it,  is  extremely 
intricate  and  narrow,  and  that  the  space  is  strewed  with  shoals. 
The  island  is  now  low  and  sandy,  and  is  apparently  joined  under 
water,  to  the  southward,  to  the  strip  of  sand  before  mentioned  as 
extending  along  the  coast :  we  noticed  upon  it  a  considerable  village 
of  yourts,  the  largest  of  any  that  had  as  yet  been  seen.  The  natives 
appear  to  prefer  having  their  dwellings  upon  this  sandy  foundation 
to  the  main  land,  probably  on  account  of  the  latter  being  swampy, 
which  is  the  case  every  where  in  the  vicinity  of  this  inlet  and  Kotz- 
ebue Sound.  Several  of  them,  taking  advantage  of  the  calm,  came 
off  in  baidars,  similar  to  those  used  by  the  St.  La\iflrence  islanders, 
though  of  inferior  workmanship.  The  people,  however,  differed 
from  them  in  many  respects  ;  their  complexion  was  darker,  their 
features  were  more  harsh  and  angular  ;  they  were  deficient  in  the 
tattooing  of  the  face;  and  what  constituted  a  wider  distinction  be- 
tween them  was  a  custom,  which  we  afterwards  found  general  on  the 
American  coast,  of  wearing  ornaments  in  their  under  lips.  Our 
visitors  were  noisy  and  energetic,  but  good-natured ;  laughed  much, 
and  immorously  apprized  us  when  we  were  making  a  good  barg- 
ain. 

They  willingly  sold  every  thing  they  had,  except  their  bows  and 
arrows,  which  they  implied  were  required  lor  the  chase  on  shore ; 
but  they  could  not  resist  '•'  tawac''  (tobacco)  and  iron  knives,  and 
ultimately  parted  with  them.  These  instuments  differed  from  those 
of  the  islanders  to  the  southward,  ui  b  .ig  more  slender,  but  they 
were  made  upon  the  same  principle,  with  drift  pine,  assisted  with 
thongs  of  hide,  and  occasionally  with  pieces  of  whalbone  placed  at 
the  back  of  them  neatly  bound  round  with  small  cord.  Their  ar- 
rows were  tipped  with  bone,  flint,  or  iron,  and  they  had  spears  or  lan- 
ces headed  with  the  same  materials.  Their  dress  was  the  same  as 
that  worn  by  the  whole  tribe  inhabiting  the  coast.  It  consisted 
of  a  shirt  which  reached  half  way  down  the  thigh,  with  long  sleeves 
and  a  hood  to  it,  made  generally  of  the  skin  of  the  reindeer  and 

•  Mountains  were  seen  at  the  back  of  it,  but  the  coaat  was  not  visible — probably  it 
is  low. 


[July, 

a  ridge  of 
Esquimaux 
i,  in  ten  and 
I  four  and  a 
ed,  and  had 
nland  in  an 
width  of  the 
ff  Island  lies 
y  Kotzebue, 
s  extremely 
with  shoals. 
oined  under 
(lentioned  as 
;rable  village 

The  natives 
\y  foundation 
ing  swampy, 
et  and  Kotz- 
e  calm,  came 
ice  islanders, 
ever,  differed 
darker,  their 
jficient  in  the 
listinction  be- 
general  on  the 
er  lips.  Our 
aughed  much, 

a  good  barg- 

[heir  bows  and 
ise  on  shore ; 
knives,  and 
;ed  from  those 
Ider,  but  they 
assisted  with 
me  placed  at 
Their  ar- 
spears  or  Ian- 
is  the  same  as 
It  consisted 
long  sleeves 
reindeer  and 

liblc— probably  ii 


1826.] 


AND    DEERINg's    STRAIT. 


215 


edged  with  the  fur  of  the  gray  or  white  (uk,  and  sometimes  with 
dog's  skin.  The  hood  is  usually  edged  with  a  longer  fur  than  the 
other  parts,  either  of  the  wolf  or  dog.  They  have  besides  this  a 
jacket  made  of  eider  drakes'  skins  sewed  together,  which,  put  on 
underneath  their  other  dress,  is  a  tolerable  protection  against  a  dis- 
tant arrow,  and  is  worn  in  times  of  hostility.  In  wet  weather  they 
tlirow  a  shirt  over  their  fur  dress  made  of  the  entrails  of  the  whale, 
which,  while  in  their  possession,  is  quite  water  tight,  as  it  is  then, 
in  common  with  the  rest  of  their  property,  tolerably  well  supplied 
with  oil  and  grease ;  but  after  they  had  been  purchased  by  us  and 
became  dry,  they  broke  into  holes  and  let  the  water  through.  They 
are  on  the  whole  as  good  as  the  best  oil-skins  in  England.  Besides 
the  shirt,  they  have  breeches  and  boots,  the  former  made  of  deer's 
hide,  thi-  latter  of  seal's  skin,  both  of  which  have  drawing  strings  at 
the  upper  part,  made  of  sea-horse  hide.  To  the  end  of  that  which 
goes  round  the  waist  they  attach  a  tuft  of  hair,  the  wing  of  a  bird, 
or  sometimes  a  fox's  tail,  which,  dangling  behind  as  they  walk,  gives 
them  a  ridiculous  appearance,  and  may  probably  have  occasioned 
the  the  report  of  the  Tschutschi,  recorded  in  Muller,  that  the  peo- 
ple of  this  country  have  "  tails  like  dogs." 

It  was  at  Schismareff  Inlet  that  we  first  saw  the  lip  ornaments 
which  are  common  to  all  the  inhabitants  of  the  coast  thence  as  far 
as  Point  Barrow.  These  ornaments  consist  of  pieces  of  ivory, 
stone,  or  glass,  formed  with  a  double  head,  like  a  sleeve-button,  one 
part  of  which  is  thrust  through  a  hole  bored  in  the  under  lip.  Two 
of  these  holes  are  cut  in  a  slanting  direction  about  half  an  inch  be- 
low the  corners  of  the  mouth.  The  incision  is  made  when  about 
the  age  of  puberty,  and  is  at  first  the  size  of  a  quill ;  as  they  grow 
older  the  natives  enlarge  the  orifice,  and  increase  the  dimensions  of 
the  ornament  accordingly,  that  it  may  hold  its  place  :  in  adults,  this 
orifice  is  about  half  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  will,  if  required,  dis- 
tend to  three  quarters  of  an  inch.  Some  of  these  ornaments  were 
made  of  granite,  others  of  jade-stone,  and  a  few  of  laige  blue  glass 
beads  let  into  a  piece  of  ivory  which  formed  a  white  ring  round 
them.  These  are  about  an  inch  in  diameter,  but  I  afterwards  got 
one  of  a  finely  polished  jade  that  was  three  inches  in  length,  by  an 
inch  and  a  half  in  width. 

About  noon,  a  breeze  springing  up,  the  natives  quitted  us  for  the 
shore,  and  we  pursued  our  course  to  the  northward  without  waiting 
to  explore  further  this  deep  inlet,  which  has  since  been  a  subject  of 
regret,  as  the  weather  afterwards  in  both  years  prevented  its  being 
done.  I  could  not,  however,  consistently  with  my  instructions,  wait 
to  examine  it  at  this  moment,  as  the  appointed  time  of  rendezvous 
at  Chamisso  Island  was  already  past,*     While  becalmed  off  it,  wo 

♦  It  has  since  been  surveyed  by  the  Russiana. 


l!\i 


i'J 


y 


r 


^  »> — 


21G 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Juli^. 


^h 


I: 


were  carriod  slowly  to  the  nortli-eastWcard  l)y  a  current  which  had 
been  running  in  that  direction  from  the  time  of  our  quitting  St.  Law- 
rence  Island.  With  a  fair  wind  we  sailed  along  the  coast  to  the 
northward,  which  was  low  and  swampy,  with  small  lakes  inland. 
The  ridge  of  sand  continued  along  the  coast  to  Cape  Espenburg, 
and  there  terminated. 

We  entered  Kotzebue  Sound  early  in  the  morning  of  the  22d  of 
July,  and  plied  against  a  contrary  wind,  guided  by  the  soundings ; 
the  appearance  of  the  land  was  so  distorted  by  mirage,  and  in  parts 
so  obscured  by  low  fog,  that  it  was  impossible  to  distinguish  where 
we  were.  The  naturalist  who  accompanied  Kotzebue  in  his  voyage 
particularly  remarks  this  state  of  the  atmosphere  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  sound,  and  suggests  that  it  may  be  occasioned  by  the  swampy 
nature  of  the  country ;  in  which  opinion  T  fully  concur.  When  it 
cleared  ofFwe  were  much  surprised  to  find  ourselves  opposite  a  deep 
inlet  in  the  northern  shore,  which  had  escaped  the  observation  of 
Captain  Kotzebue.  I  named  it  Hotham  Inlet,  in  compliment  to  the 
Hon.  Sir  Henry  Hotham,  K.C.B.,  one  of  the  lords  of  the  Admi- 
ralty. We  stood  in  to  explore  it,  but  found  the  water  too  shallow, 
and  were  obliged  to  anchor  in  four  fathoms  to  pervent  being  carried 
away  by  a  strong  tide  which  was  setting  out  of  the  sound,  the  wind 
being  light  and  contrary. 

As  it  would  be  necessary  to  remain  three  or  four  days  at  Cham- 
isso  Island  to  increase  our  stock  of  water,  previous  to  proceeding  to 
the  northward,  the  barge  was  hoisted  out  and  sent  to  examine  the 
inlet,  with  directions  to  meet  the  ship  at  Chamisso  Island.  She 
was  again  placed  under  the  command  of  Mr.  Elson,  and  equipped 
in  every  way  necessary  for  the  service  required. 

We  were  visited  by  several  baidars,  containing  from  ten  to  thir- 
teen men  each,  whose  object  was  to  obtain  articles  in  exchange. 
They  were  in  every  respect  similar  to  the  natives  of  Schismareff 
Inlet,  though  rather  better  looking,  and  were  all,  without  exception, 
provided  with  labrets,  either  made  of  ivory  and  blue  beads,  as  he- 
fore  described,  of  ivory  alone,  or  of  different  kinds  of  stone,  as  stea- 
tite, porphyry,  or  greenstone ;  they  readily  disengaged  these  from 
their  lips,  and  sold  them,  without  minding  the  inconvenience  of  the 
saliva  that  flowed  through  the  badly  cicatriced  orifice  over  the  chin; 
but  on  the  contrary  derided  us  when  we  betrayed  disgust  at  the 
spectacle,  by  thrusting  their  tongues  through  the  hole,  and  winking 
their  eyes.  One  or  two  had  small  strings  of  beads  suspended  to 
their  ears. 

The  articles  they  brought  off  were,  as  before,  skins,  fish,  fishing 
implements,  and  nic-nacs.  Their  peltry  consisted  of  the  skins  of 
the  seal,  of  the  common  and  arctic  fox,  the  common  and  musk-rat,  the 
marten,  beaver,  three  varieties  of  err.iine,  one  white,  one  with  a 


[Juhj, 

icli  had 
5t.  Law- 
it  to  the 
3  inland, 
penhurg, 

le  22d  of 
•undings ; 
1  in  parts 
ish  where 
iis  voyage 
icinity  of 

swampy 

When  it 
sitp  a  deep 
;rvation  of 
nent  to  the 
the  Admi- 
)o  shallow, 
ing  carried 
,  the  wind 

at  Cham- 
)ceeding  to 
tamine  the 
and.  She 
equipped 

3n  to  thir- 
exchange. 
Jchismareff 
exception, 
[ads,  as  he- 
Ine,  as  stea- 
1  these  from 
;nce  of  the 
[r  the  chin; 
[gust  at  the 
d  winking 
ppended  to 

3sh,  fishing 
le  skins  of 
jsk-rat,  the 
hne  with  a 


182G.J 


AND  BEKRINO  3  STRAIT. 


an 


light  brown  back  and  yellow  belly,  and  the  third  with  a  gray  back 
spotted  white  and  yellow ;  the  American  otter,  the  wliite  bare, 
tiie  polar  bear,  the  wolf)  the  deer,  and  the  badger.  Their  fish  were 
salmon  and  herrings:  their  implements,  lances,  cither  of  stone  or  of 
a  walrus  tooth  fixed  to  the  end  of  a  wooden  staff";  harpoons  precisely 
similar  to  the  Esquimaux  ;  arrows  ;  drills  ;  and  an  instrument,  the 
use  of  w  hich  was  at  first  not  very  evident.  It  was  part  of  a  walrus 
tooth  shaped  something  like  a  shoehorn,  with  four  holes  at  the  small 
end,  communicating  with  a  trough  that  extended  along  the  middle 
of  the  instrument  and  widened  as  it  neared  the  broad  part.  From 
the  explanation  given  of  it  by  the  natives,  it  was  evidently  used  to 
procure  blood  from  dying  animals,  by  inserting  the  end  with  the 
lioles  into  the  wound,  and  placing  the  mouth  at  the  opposite  end  of 
the  trough  to  receive  the  liquid  as  it  flowed.  From  the  satisfaction 
that  was  evinced  by  the  describer  during  the  explanation,  it  is  evi- 
dent that  the  blood  of  animals  is  as  much  esteemed  by  these  people 
as  by  the  eastern  Esquimaux.*  On  the  outside  of  this  and  other 
instruments  there  were  etched  a  variety  of  figures  of  men,  beasts, 
and  birds,  &tc.,  with  a  truth  and  character  which  showed  the  art  to 
be  common  among  them.  The  reindeer  were  generally  in  herds  : 
in  one  picture  they  were  pursued  by  a  man  in  a  stooping  posture  in 
snow-shoes  ;  in  another  he  had  approached  nearer  to  his  game,  and 
was  in  the  act  of  drawing  his  bow.  A  third  represented  the  man- 
ner of  taking  seals  with  an  inflated  skin  of  the  same  animal  as  a  de- 
coy ;  it  was  placed  upon  the  ice,  and  not  far  from  it  a  man  was  ly- 
ing upon  his  belly  with  a  harpoon  ready  to  strike  the  animal  Avhen 
it  should  make  its  appearance.  Another  was  dragging  a  seal  home 
upon  a  small  sledge ;  and  several  baidars  were  employed  harpoon- 
ing whales  which  had  been  previously  shot  with  arrows ;  and  thus, 
Ijy  comparing  one  device  with  another,  a  little  history  was  obtained 
wliich  gave  us  a  better  insight  into  their  habits  than  could  be  elici- 
ted from  any  signs  or  intimations. 

The  natives  also  offered  to  us  for  sale  various  other  articles  of 
traffic,  such  as  small  wooden  bowls  and  cases,  and  little  ivory  figures, 
some  of  which  were  not  more  than  three  inches  in  length,  dressed 
in  clothes  which  were  made  with  seams  and  edgings  precisely  simi- 
lar to  those  in  use  among  the  Esquimaux. 

The  staves  of  the  harpoons  and  spears  were  made  of  pine  or  cy- 
press, in  all  probability  from  drift  wood,  which  is  very  abundant 
upon  the  shores  ;  and  yet  the  circumstance  of  their  having  lumps 
of  the  resin  in  small  bags,  favoured  the  supposition  that  they  had 
access  to  the  living  trees.  They  had  also  iron  pyrites,  plumbago, 
and  red  ochre,  with  which  the  frame  of  the  baidar  was  coloured. 

♦  See  Captain  Parry's  Second  Voyage,  4to.,  p.  510, 

28 


?i^  - . 


- 1.1*-  -., 


,1,1  •  I     r     ■„  iHBTl 


•^:f=- 


LA,,./.ii^t._ki 


r>*v 


2iy 


VOYAflE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


\J'>h 


ii- 


The  people  themselves,  in  their  jjersons  as  well  as  in  their  mnn- 
neis  and  implements,  possessed  all  the  chaiac  I  eristic  features  oi"  the 
Esquimaux;  large  fat  round  faces,  high  check  bones,  si'  .11  Jiazfl 
eyes,  eyebrows  slanting  like  the  Chinese,  and  wide  mouths.  Tiicv 
had  the  same  fashion  with  their  hair  as  the  natives  of  Schismareil' 
Inlet,  cutting  it  close  round  the  crown  of  the  head,  and  thereby 
leaving  a  bushy  ring  round  the  lower  part  of  it.  Ophthalmia  was 
very  general  with  them,  and  obliged  some  to  wear  either  some  kind 
of  shade  or  spectacles,  made  of  wood,  with  a  wide  slit  for  each  eye 
to  look  through.  At  SchismarefF  Inlet  diseases  of  this  nature  wore, 
also,  prevalent  among  those  who  visited  us. 

The  salutation  of  our  visiters  was,  as  before,  by  a  contact  of 
noses,  and  by  smoothing  our  faces  with  the  palms  of  their  hands, 
but  without  any  disgusting  practice. 

When  they  had  parted  with  all  they  had  for  sale,  they  quitted 
the  ship,  well  pleased  with  their  excursion,  and  having  pushed  off 
to  a  little  distance,  clapped  their  hands,  extended  their  arms,  and 
stroked  their  bodies  repeated'y ;  which  we  afterwards  found  to  bo 
the  usual  demonstration  of  friendship  among  all  their  tribe.  They 
then  pointed  to  the  shore,  and  with  one  consent  stnick  the  water 
with  their  paddles,  and  propelled  their  baidars  with  a  velocity  wliirh 
we  were  not  prepared  to  witness.  These  boats  are  similar  in  ron- 
struction  to  the  oomiaks  of  Hudson's  Bay  ;  but  the  model  differs 
in  being  sharp  at  both  ends.  They  consist  of  a  frame  made  of  drift 
wood,  covered  with  the  skins  of  walruses  which  are  strained  over  it, 
and  are  capable  of  being  tightened  at  any  time  by  a  lacing  on  the 
inside  of  the  gunwale ;  the  frame  and  benches  for  the  rowers  are 
fastened  with  thongs,  by  which  the  boat  is  rendered  both  light  and 
pliable  ;  the  skin,  when  soaked  with  water,  is  translucent ;  and  a 
stranger  placing  his  foot  upon  the  flat  yielding  surface  at  the  bottom 
of  the  boat  fancies  it  a  frail  security  ;  but  it  is  very  safe  and  dura- 
ble, especially  when  kept  well  greased. 

In  Hudson's  Strait  the  oomiak  is  principally  used  by  the  women 
and  children :  here  it  is  the  common  conveyance  of  the  men,  wlio, 
without  them,  would  not  be  able  to  collect  their  store  of  provisions 
for  the  winter.  They  are  always  steered  by  the  elderly  men,  wlio 
have  also  the  privilege  of  sitting  in  the  stern  of  the  boat  when  un- 
employed. The  starboard  paddles  of  those  which  we  saw  were 
stained  with  black  stripes,  and  the  larboard  with  red,  as  were  also 
the  frames  of  some  of  the  baidars. 

We  formed  a  favourable  opinion  of  our  visiters  from  the  strict 
integrity  which  they  evinced  in  all  their  dealings,  even  when  op- 
portunities offered  of  evading  detection,  which  I  notice  the  more 
readily,  as  we  afterwards  experienced  very  different  behaviour  from 
the  same  tribe. 


1826.  J 


ANF)   RKKIUNli  S  STRAIT 


Jji|;;lit  winds  kept  us  at  anchor  for  twenty-four  l)ours,  during  which 
limo  the  current  ran  idniost  constantly  to  the  soutli-westward,  at  the 
rate  ot  from  two  fatlioms  to  two  miles  per  hour;  and  the  water  was 
nearly  fresh  (1.0089  to  !  .t)09(>  sp.  gr.);  this  stratum,  however,  was 
(.oiitint'd  to  a  short  distance  from  tiie  surface,  as  a  patent  log,  which 
was  sunk  for  three  hours  at  the  depth  of  three  fathoms,  showed  only 
a  fifth  of  a  mile  in  that  time.  These  facts  left  no  doubt  of  our  be- 
ing near  the  estuary  of  a  considerable  river,  flowing,  in  all  probabil- 
ity, through  the  large  opening  abreast  of  us,  which  the  boat  had 
been  sent  to  explore. 

AVe  weighed  in  the  afternoon  of  the  *i3d,  but  in  consequence  of 
light  winds  and  counter  currents  made  very  little  progress  ;  indeed, 
a  great  part  of  the  time  the  ship  would  not  steer,  even  with  a  mod- 
erate breeze  and  two  boats  a-head,  and  it  was  necessary  to  keep 
carrying  out  the  kedge  anchors  on  the  bow  to  maintain  the  ship's 
head  in  the  right  direction.  This  was  occasioned  by  some  large  riv- 
ers emptying  themselves  into  the  sound,  the  fresh  water  of  which 
remained  at  the  surface,  and  flowed  in  a  contrary  direction  to  the 
tide  of  the  ocean.  Had  this  occured  in  an  intricate  channel  it  might 
liave  been  dangerous ;  but  in  Kotzebue  Sound  the  bottom  is  quite 
even,  and  there  is  plenty  of  room  to  drift  about. 

At  foa/  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the  25tli  we  reached  our  ap- 
pointed rondezvous  at  Chamisso  Island,  ten  days  later  than  had  been 
agreed  upon  by  Captain  Franklin  and  myself,  but  which,  it  appear- 
ed, was  quite  early  enough,  as  there  were  no  traces  of  his  having 
arrived.  On  approaching  the  island  we  discovered,  through  our  tel- 
escopes, a  small  pile  of  stones  upon  its  summit ;  and  as  every  object 
of  this  kind  wdiich  was  likely  to  be  the  work  of  human  hands  was 
interesting,  from  the  possibility  that  it  might  be  the  labour  of  the 
party  we  were  in  search  of,  it  w'as  not  long  in  undergoing  an  examina- 
tion ;  there  was  nothing  however  to  lead  to  its  history,  but  conjec- 
ture attributed  it  to  Captain  Kotzebue,  who  visited  that  spot  in  1816. 

The  ship  was  anchored  nearly  as  far  up  in  Kotzebue  Sound  as  a 
vessel  of  her  class  can  go,  between  Chamisso  Island  on  the  south, 
and  Choris  peninsula  on  the  north,  with  Escholtz  Bay  on  the  east, 
and  an  open  space  on  the  west,  in  which  the  coast  was  too  distant 
to  be  seen.  The  land  about  this  part  of  the  Sound  is  generally 
characterised  by  rounded  hills  from  about  six  hundred  feet  t(  <  t!  ou- 
sand  above  the  sea,  with  small  lakes  and  rivers ;  its  surface  j^  rent, 
into  deep  furrows,  which,  until  a  very  late  period  in  the  summer^ 
are  filled  with  water,  and  being  coversd  w-ith  a  thick  swampy  moss, 
and  in  some  places  with  long  grass  or  bushes,  it  is  extremely  tedi- 
ous to  traverse  it  on  foot.  Early  in  the  summer  myriads  of  moski- 
tos  infest  this  swampy  shore,  and  almost  preclude  the  possibility  of 
continuing  any  pursuit ;  but  in  August  they  begin  to  die  off,  and 
soon  afterwards  entirely  disappear. 


SBSSSSi 


w 


Oy 


'i\iO 


VOYAGB  TO  TIIK  PACIKIC 


[J»/y, 


!        I 


('liiimisso  Isliiiul,  the  liij;;li(3st  part  of  wliicli  is  :23l  it'i-t  above 
tlin  soa.  is  stec'i),  c'xce|)t  to  the  eastward,  wliero  it  cuds  in  a  low- 
sandy  point,  upon  wiiich  are  the  remains  of  some  Es(niimaiix  hiihl- 
tations  ;  it  has  the  same  swampy  covering  as  tlie  hnul  just  descrihi>(l. 
frou)  which,  until  late  in  the  sunnner,  several  streams  descend,  and 
are  very  convenient  for  procuring  water.  Detached  from  Chainisso, 
there  is  a  steep  rock  which  by  way  of  distinction  we  named  PiiHin 
Island,  composed  of  mouldering  granite,  which  has  been  broken 
uway  in  such  a  manner  that  the  remaining  part  assumes  the  form  of 
a  tower.  During  the  period  of  incubation  of  the  aquatic  birds,  eve- 
ry hole  and  projecting  crag  on  the  sides  of  this  rock  is  occupied  hy 
them.  Its  shores  resound  with  the  chorus  of  thousands  of  tjio 
feathery  tribe ;  and  its  surface  presents  a  curiously  mottled  carpet 
of  brown,  black,  and  white. 

Ill  a  sandy  bay  upon  the  western  side  of  the  peninsula  we  found 
a  few  Esquimaux  who  had  hauled  up  their  baidars,  and  erected  a 
temporary  hut ;  they  were  inferior  in  every  respect  to  those  wc  had 
seen  before,  and  furnislied  us  with  nothing  new.  In  this  bay  wc 
caught  enough  salmon  and  other  fish  to  give  a  meal  to  the  whole  of 
the  ship's  company,  which  was  highly  acceptable  ;  but  we  had  to 
regret  that  similar  success  did  not  attend  our  subsequent  trials. 

By  my  instructions,  I  was  desired  to  await  the  arriv  '  of  Captain 
Franklin  at  this  anchorage ;  but  in  a  memoir  drawn  v  that  ofli- 

cer  and  myself,  to  which  my  attention  was  directed  I  Admiral- 

ty, it  was  arranged  that  the  ship  should  proceed  to  the  northward, 
and  survey  the  coast,  keeping  the  barge  in  shore  to  look  out  for  the 
land  party,  and  to  erect  posts  as  signals  of  her  having  been  tlieic, 
and  also  to  leave  directions  where  to  find  the  ship. 

1  was  also  desired  to  place  a  small  party  in  occupation  of  Cliani- 
isso  Island  during  the  absence  of  the  ship ;  but  this  spot  proved  to 
be  so  different  from  what  we  imagined,  being  accessible  in  almost 
every  quaiter,  instead  of  having  only  one  landing  place,  that  a 
a  small  ])ariy  would  have  been  of  no  use  if  the  natives  were  inclin- 
ed to  be  hostile,  and  the  numerical  strength  of  the  crew  did  not  ad- 
mit of  a  large  detachmciit  being  spared  from  her.  But  in  order  that 
Captain  Franklin  should  not  want  prevision  in  the  event  of  his  mis- 
sing the  ship  along  the  coast,  and  arriving  at  the  island  in  her  ah- 
sence,  a  tight  barrel  of  flour  was  buried  upon  Puffm  Rock,  which 
appeared  to  be  the  most  unfrequented  spot  in  the  vicinity,  and  di- 
rections for  finding  it  were  deposited  in  a  bottle  at  Chamisso  Island, 
together  with  such  other  information  as  he  might  require,  and  the 
place  where  it  was  deposited  was  pointed  out  by  writing  upon  the 
cliffs  with  white  paint.  It  was  further  arranged,  that  a  party  should 
proceed  overland  in  a  northerly  direction,  in  the  hope  of  fall- 
ing in  with  Captain  Franklin,  as  it  was  possible  the  shoie  of  the 


-j^.  j^tmbt^ 


|H->({.| 


AND  BF.r.RINO  S  BTIIAIT. 


Polar  Sea  might  lie  more  to  the  southward  than  the  general 
trending  of  that  part  of  its  coast  wJiich  had  heen  explored  le«l 
us  to  expect.  But  as  the  ship  was  likely  to  he  ahsent  several 
weeks,  and  we  were  unacquainted  with  the  disposition  of  the  people 
or  with  the  country,  further  than  that  from  its  swamjjy  nature,  it 
seemed  to  present  almost  insurmountable  difficulties  to  the  journey, 
I  deferred  the  departure  of  the  party,  and  afterwards  wholly  aban- 
doned the  project,  as  the  coast  was  four.  I  to  extend  so  far  to  tho 
northward  as  to  render  it  quite  useless. 

As  I  wished  to  avail  myself  of  the  latitude  afforded  by  this  me- 
moir, to  survey  and  examine  as  much  of  the  coast  as  possible  before 
Captain  Franklin  arrived,  no  time  was  lost  in  preparing  the  ship  for 
sea,  which  it  required  only  a  little  time  to  efteet. 

On  the  28th  Mr.  Elson  returned  from  the  examination  of  the 
opening  we  discovered  on  the  north  side  of  Kotzebue  Sound,  and 
reported  the  water  at  tlie  entrance  to  be  shallow,  that  the  barge 
could  not  enter.  The  inlet  was  of  considerable  width,  and  extend- 
ed thirty  or  forty  miles  in  a  broad  sheet  of  water,  which  some  distance 
up  was  fresh.  This  was  ascertained  by  landing  in  the  sound  to  the  east- 
ward of  the  opening,  at  which  place  it  was  foimd  that  the  inlet  ap- 
jnoached  the  Fea  within  a  mile  and  a  half,  "lie  time  to  which  it  was 
necessary  to  limit  Mr.  Elson,  prevented  his  doing  more  than  ascertain- 
ing that  this  opening  was  navigable  only  by  small  boats  ;  and  by  the 
water  being  quite  fresh,  that  it  could  not  lead  to  any  sea  beyond. 

The  Esquimaux  in  the  inlet  were  more  numerous  than  we  sup- 
posed, but  were  very  orderly  and  well  behaved.     When  the  barge 
anchored  off  a  low  sandy  point,  on  which  they  had  erected   their 
summer  habitations  and  fishing  stakes,  she  was  surrounded  by  four- 
teen baidars,  containing  150  men  ;  which,  considering  the   crew  of 
the  barge  only  amounted  to  eight  men  and  two  officers,  was  a  su- 
periority of  strength  that  might  well  have  entitled  them  to  take  lib- 
erties, had  they  been  disposed,  armed  as  they  usually  are  Avith  bows 
and  arrows,  spears,  and  a  large  knife  strapped  to  their  thigh  :  but 
so  far  from  this  being  the  case,  they  readily  consented  to  an  arrange- 
ment, that  only  one  baidar  at  a  time  should  come  alongside  to  dis- 
pose of  her  goods,  and  then  make  way  for  another :  the  proposal 
was  made  while  the  baidars  were  assembled  round  our  boat,  and 
was  received  with  a  shout  of  general  applause. 

Blue  beads,  cutlery,  tobacco,  and  buttons,  were  the  articles  in 
request,  and  with  which  almost  any  thing  they  had  might  have  been 
purchased :  for  these  they  sold  their  implements,  ornaments,  and 
some  very  fine  salmon  ;  also  a  small  caiac  very  similar  to  those  of 
Greenland  and  Hudson's  Strait. 

While  the  duties  of  the  ship  were  being  forwarded  under  my  first 
lieutenant,  Mr.  Peard,  I  took  the  opportunity  to  visit  the  extvaordv- 


IV' 


'  \  \  ii 


i-' 


>¥ 


Vj^! 


( 


\''^-MI>-i^;., 


'W 


222 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[July, 


ji' 


nary  ice-formation  in  Esuholtz  Bay,  mentioned  by  Kotzebue  as  be- 
ing "  covered  witb  a  soil  balf  a  foot  tbick,  producinf  ''.e  most  lux- 
uriant grass,"  and  containing  an  abundance  of  mammotb  bones. 
We  sailed  up  tlie  bay,  wbich  was  extremely  sballow,  and  landed  at 
a  deserted  village  on  a  low  sandy  point,  wbere  Kotzebue  bivouack- 
ed when  he  v'sited  the  place,  and  to  which  I  afterwards  gave  the 
vprae  of  Elephant  Point,  from  the  bones  of  that  animal  being  found 
near  it. 

The  cliffs  in  wiiich  this  singular  formation  was  discovered  begin 
near  this  point,  and  extend  wesL.vard  in  nearly  a  straight  line  to  a 
rocky  cliff  of  primitive  formation  ut  the  entrance  of  the  bay,  whence 
the  coast  takes  an  abrupt  turn  to  the  southward.  The  cliffs  are 
from  twenty  to  eighty  feet  in  height ;  and  rise  inland  to  a  rounded 
range  of  hills  between  four  and  iive  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  In 
some  places  they  present  a  perpendicular  front  to  the  northward,  in 
others  a  slightly  inclined  surface ;  and  are  occasionally  intersected 
by  valleys  and  water-courses  generally  overgrown  with  low  bushes. 
Opposite  eacJi  of  diese  valkys,  there  is  a  projecting  flat  piece  of 
ground,  consist  g  of  ihe  materials  that  have  been  washed  down  the 
ravins,  where  the  only  good  landing  for  boats  h  afforded.  The  soil 
of  the  cliffs  is  a  bluish-coloured  mud,  for  the  most  part  covered  with 
moss  and  long  grass,  full  of  deep  furrows,  generally  filled  with  wa- 
ter or  frozen  snow".  Mud  in  a  frozen  state  forms  the  surface  of  the 
cliff  in  some  ports  ;  in  others  the  rock  appears,  with  the  mud  above 
it,  or  sometinios  with  a  bank  halfway  up  it,  as  if  the  superstratum 
had  graduall}  slid  down  and  accumulated  against  the  cliff.  By  tlie 
large  rents  neai  the  edges  of  the  mud  cliffs,  they  appear  to  be  break- 
ing awfiy,  and  contributing  daily  to  diminish  the  depth  of  the  water 
in  the  bay. 

Such  ib  the  general  conformation  of  this  line  of  coast.  That  particu- 
lar formation,  which,  when  it  was  first  discovered  by  Ca])tain  Kc- 
zebue,  excited  so  much  curiosity,  and  bore  so  near  a  rosemblance 
to  an  iceberg  as  to  deceive  hiiiiaelf  and  his  officers,  when  they  a] 
preached  the  spot  to  examine  it,  remains  to  be  described.  Aa  we 
rowed  along  the  shore,  the  shining  surface  of  small  portions  of  the 
cliffs  attracted  our  attention,  and  directed  us  where  to  search  for  this 
curious  phenomenon,  which  we  should  otherwise  have  had  difficuhy 
in  finding,  notwithstanding  its  locality  had  been  particularly  descri- 
bed ;  for  so  large  a  portion  of  the  ice  chffhas  thawed  since  it  was 
visited  by  Captain  Kotzebue  and  his  naturalist,  that  only  a  few  in- 
significant patches  of  the  frozen  surface  now  remain.  Tiie  largest 
of  these,  situated  about  a  mile  to  the  westward  of  Elephant  Point, 
was  particularly  examined  by  Mr.  Collie,  whO;  on  cutting  through 
tlie  ice  in  r  horizontal  direction,  found  that  it  formed  only  a  casing 
to  he  cliff  which  wascomposed  of  mud  and  gravel  in  a  frozen  state. 


1826.] 

On  ren 

of sepa 

;;een  d( 

of  the  c 

which  f( 

and  fouj 

two  incl 

The  J 

sound  ; 

being  ba 

winter,  a 

freezings 

the  edge! 

than  on  c 

thus  bec( 

still  froze 

base,  In  vv 

the  surfac 

by  'lie   tt] 

ijelcvv,  wl] 

this  .spot  8 

ation  in  its 

deception 

The  des 

huts,  Hide! 

and  four  fe 

wood  raise 

lieap?  of  Ix 

ability  had 

I  (jiecnlande 

A  rank  gra< 

about  the  ei 

I  some  wild  f 

I  'ler  ready  ft 


paiticu- 
lin  Kc- 
smblance 
hey  ai 
As  we 
s  oftlie 
h  for  this 
iftkulty 
(k'stri- 
c  it  was 
few  in- 
le  larg;est 

t  Point) 
througli 
a  casing 
en  state. 


1826.] 


AND  BEERINO  S  STRAIT. 


On  removing  ihe  eaith  above,  it  was  also  evident,  by  a  decided  line 
of  separation  between  the  ice  and  the  cHff,  that  the  Russians  bad 
;,een  deceived  by  appearances.  B}  catting  into  the  upper  surface 
of  the  cHff  three  feet  from  the  edge,  frozen  earth,  similar  to  that 
which  formed  the  face  of  the  clift,  was  found  at  eleven  inches'  depth  ; 
and  four  yards  further  back  the  same  substance  occurred  at  twenty - 
two  inches'  depth. 

The  glacial  facing  we  afterwards  noticed  in  several  parts  of  the 
sound  :  and  it  appears  to  me  to  be  occasioned  either  by  the  snow 
being  banked  up  against  the  cliff,  or  collected  in  iis  hollows  in  the 
winter,  and  converted  into  ice  in  the  summer  by  partial  thawings  and 
freezings — or  by  the  constant  flow  of  water  during  the  summer  over 
the  edges  of  the  clifTs,  on  which  the  sun's  rays  operate  less  forcibly 
than  on  other  parts,  in  consequence  of  their  aspect.  The  streams 
thus  become  converted  into  ice,  either  while  trickling  down  the 
still  frozen  surface  of  the  cliffs,  or  after  they  reach  the  earth  at  their 
base,  in  uhich  case  die  ice  rises  llko  a  stalagmite,  and  in  time  reaches 
the  surface.  But  before  this  is  completed,  the  upper  soil,  looiiened 
by  the  thaw  is  itself  projected  over  the  cliff,  and  falls  in  a  heap 
ueLvv,  whence  it  is  ultimately  carried  away  by  the  tide.  We  visited 
this  spot  a  month  later  in  the  season,  and  found  a  considerable  alter- 
ation in  its  appearance,  manifestii^g  more  clearly  than  before  the 
deception  under  which  Kotzebue  laboured. 

The  deserted  village  upon  the  low  point  consisted  of  a  row  of 
liuts,  I'ldely  formed  with  drift  wood  and  turf,  about  six  feet  square 
and  four  feet  in  height.  In  front  of  them  was  a  quantity  of  drift- 
wood raised  upon  rafters  ;  and  around  them  there  were  several 
heap?  of  bones  and  skulls  of  seals  and  grampuses,  which  in  all  prob- 
ability had  been  retained  conformably  with  the  supei-stitions  of  the 
Greonlanders,  who  carefully  preserve  these  parts  of  the  skeleton.* 
A  rank  gra^s  grew  luxuriantly  about  these  deserted  abodes,  and  also 
about  the  edges  of  several  pools  of  frerh  water,  in  which  there  were 
some  wild  fowl.  We  returned  to  the  ship  late  at  night,  and  found 
her  ready  for  sea. 

•  Cidtitz  Greenland,  Vol.  1. 


L^rsi 


filHE 


J^f--™ 


UiliPBIWil  W(|ii 


-^  -'— 


\V 


224 


VOVAOE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Juh/. 


\i    - 


CHAPTER  XL 


(^uit  Kotzebuc  Sound,  and  proceed  to  Biirvey  the  Coast  to  the  Northward— Inter- 
views with  the  Natives— Cape  Thomson — Point  Hope— Current — Capes  Sabine 
and  Beaufort — Barrier  of  Ice — Icy  Cape — Advanced  Position  of  the  Ship— Dis- 
cover Cape  Franklin,  Wainwriglit  Inlet,  Shoals  off  Icy  Cape,  &c. — Boat  sent  on 
,,  an  Expedition  along'  the  Coast — Return  of  the  Ship  to  Kotzebue  Sound— Inter- 
*  views  with  the  Esquimaux — Boat  rejoina  the  Ship— Important  Results  of  her  Ex- 
pedition. 

On  the  30th  of  July  we  weighed  from  Chamisso  Islanc^  attended 
by  the  barge,  and  steered  out  of  the  sound.  The  day  was  very 
fine  ;  and  as  we  sailed  along  the  northern  shore,  the  sun  was  reflec- 
ted from  several  parts  of  the  cliff,  which  our  telescopes  discovered 
to  be  cased  with  a  frozen  surface,  similar  to  that  just  described  in 
Escholtz  Bay.  We  kept  at  six  or  seven  miles  distance  from  the 
land,  and  had  a  very  even  bottom,  until  near  Hotham  Inlet,  when  the 
soundings  quickly  decreased,  and  the  ship  struck  upon  a  shoal  be- 
fore any  alteration  of  the  helm  had  materially  changed  her  position, 
The  water  was  fortunately  quite  smooth,  and  she  grounded  so  easi- 
ly, that,  but  for  the  lead-lines,  we  should  not  have  known  any  thins; 
had  occurred.  We  found,  upon  sounding,  that  the  ship  had  enter- 
ed a  bight  in  the  shoal,  and  that  there  was  a  small  bank  between 
her  and  deep  water,  so  that  it  became  necessary  to  carry  out  the 
stream  anchor  in  the  direction  of  her  wake,  by  means  of  which,  and 
a  little  rise  of  the  tide,  she  soon  got  off. 

This  shoal,  which  extends  eight  miles  off  the  land,  is  very  dan- 
gerous, as  the  soundings  give  very  short  warning  of  its  proxiniity, 
and  there  are  no  good  landmarks  for  avoiding  it.  The  distance 
from  the  shore,  could  it  be  judged  of  under  ordinary  circumstances, 
would  on  some  occasions  be  a  most  treacherons  guide,  as  the  niirasijc 
in  fine  weather  plays  about  it  and  gives  the  land  a  very  different 
appearance  at  one  moment  from  that  which  it  assumes  at  another. 

As  soon  as  we  were  clear  of  the  shoal,  we  continued  our  course 
for  Cape  Krusenstern,  near  which  place  we  the  nuxt  day  buri'^d  a 
letter  for  Captain  Franklin,  and  erected  a  post  to  direct  Jiim  to  the 
spot.     The  cape  is  a  low  tongue  of  land,  intersected  by  lakes,  lyinp: 


? 


18-26.] 


AND    3EERING  S    STRAIT. 


225 


i   ' 


at  the  foot  of  a  high  cluster  of  hills  not  in  any  way  remarkable. 
The  land  slopes  down  from  them  to  several  rocky  cliffs,  whi(  1; ,  until 
the  low  point  is  seen  at  the  foot  of  them,  appear  to  be  the  entrance 
to  the  sound,  but  they  are  nearly  a  mile  inland  from  it.  The  coast 
here  takes  an  abrupt  turn  to  the  northward,  and  the  current  sets 
strong  against  the  bend ;  which  is  probably  the  reason  of  there  be- 
ing deep  water  close  to  the  beach,  as  also  the  occasion  of  a  shoal 
in  a  north-westerly  direction  from  the  point,  which  appears  to  have 
been  thrown  up  by  the  eddy  water. 

The  boat  landed  about  two  miles  to  the  northward  of  this  point, 
upon  a  shingly  beach,  sufficiently  steep  to  afford  very  good  landing 
when  the  water  is  smooth  ;  behind  it  there  was  a  plain  about  a  mile 
wide,  extending  from  the  hills  to  the  sea,  composed  of  elaptic  bog 
earth,  intersected  by  small  streams,  on  the  edges  of  which  the  but- 
tercup, poppy,  blue-bell,  pedicularis,  vaccinium,  saxifrages,  and 
some  cruciform  nlants*  throve  very  well ;  in  other  parts,  however, 
the  vegetation  was  stinted,  and  consisted  only  of  lichens  and  mos- 
ses. Tiiere  were  here  some  low  mud  cliffs  frozen  so  hard  that  it 
required  considerable  labour  to  dig  fifteen  inches  to  secure  the  end 
of  the  post  that  wa?  erected. 

Mr.  Elson,  in  co'nmand  of  the  barge,  was  now  furnished  with  a 
copy  of  the  signals  drawn  up  by  Captain  Franklin  and  myself,  and 
directed  to  proceed  close  along  the  shore  to  the  northward,  vigilantly 
looking  out  for  boats,  and  erecting  posts  and  landmarks  in  the  most 
conspicuous  places  for  Captain  Franklin's  guidance,  and  to  trace  the 
outline  of  the  beach.  He  was  also  desired  to  explore  the  coast 
narrowly,  and  to  fill  in  such  parts  of  it  as  could  not  be  executed  in 
the  ship,  and  instructed  where  to  rendezvous  in  case  of  separation. 

We  then  steered  along  the  coast,  which  t  a  north-westerly  di- 
rection, and  at  midnight  passed  a  range  of  imi-  lerniinatin?  about 
four  miles  from  the  sea,  which  must  be  the  Capu  Mulgrave  of  Cap- 
tain Cook,  who  navigated  this  part  of  the  coast  at  too  at  a  dis- 
tance to  see  the  land  in  front  of  the  hills,  which  is  extreme!  low, 
and  after  passing  the  Mulgrave  Range,  forms  an  extensive  plain 
intersected  by  lakes  near  the  beach ;  these  lakes  are  situated  so 
close  together  that  by  transporting  a  small  boat  from  one  to  the  oth- 
er, a  very  good  inland  navigation,  if  necessary,  might  be  performed. 
They  are  supplied  by  the  draining  of  the  land  and  the  melting  snow, 
and  discharge  their  water  through  small  openings  in  the  shingly 
beach,  too  shallow  to  be  entered  by  any  thing  larger  than  a  baidar, 
one  of  them  excepted,  through  which  the  current  ran  too  strong  for 
soundings  to  be  taken. 

•  the  botany  of  this  part  of  the  coast  is  published  in  the  Flora  Americana  of  Dr. 

Hooker. 

S9 


''Mi 


2'.  .' 


TBT"    ^ 


fm^^m^mm^m    I'j    wui^ 


226 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[August. 


'-■^ 


On  the  1st  of  August  we  did  little  more  than  drift  along  the  coast 
with  the  current — which  was  repeatedly  tried,  and  always  found 
setting  to  the  north-west — from  half  a  mile  to  a  mile  and  a  half  per 
hour.  The  Esquimaux,  taking  advantage  of  the  calm,  came  off  to 
the  ship  in  three  baidars,  and  added  to  our  stock  of  curiosities  by 
exchanging  their  manufactures  for  beads,  knives,  and  tobacco. 

On  the  2d,  being  favoured  with  a  breeze,  we  closed  with  a  high 
cape,  which  I  named  after  Mr.  Deas  Thomson,  one  of  the  commis- 
sioners of  the  navy.*  It  i"  a  bold  promontory  450  feet  in  height, 
and  marked  with  difterently-coloured  strata,  of  which  there  is  a  rej)- 
resentation  in  the  geological  memorandum.  As  this  was  a  fit  place 
to  erect  a  signal-post  for  Captain  Franklin,  we  landed,  and  were 
met  upon  the  beach  by  some  Esquimaux,  who  eagerly  sought  an 
exchange  of  goods.  Very  few  of  their  tribe  understood  better  how 
to  drive  a  bargain  than  these  people  ;  and  it  was  not  until  they  had 
sold  almost  all  they  coul  1  spare,  that  we  had  any  peace.  We  found 
them  very  honest,  extremely  good  natured,  and  friendly.  Tiieir 
features,  dress,  and  weapons  were  the  same  as  before  described  in 
Kotzebue  Sound,  with  the  exception  of  some  broad-headed  spears, 
which  they  had  probably  obtained  from  the  Tschutschi.  They  had 
more  curiosity  than  our  former  visiters,  and  exam.imed  very  mi- 
nutely every  part  of  our  dress;  fi^m  which  circumstance,  andtlieir 
being  frightened  at  the  discharge  of  a  gun,  and  no  less  astonislied 
when  a  bird  fell  close  to  them,  we  judged  they  had  had  a  very  lim- 
ited intercourse  with  Europeans.  The  oldest  person  we  saw  I'r.ong 
the  party  was  a  cripple  about  fifty  years  of  age.  The  others  were 
robust  people  above  the  average  height  of  Esquimaux  :  the  tallest 
man  was  five  feet  nine  inches,  and  the  tallest  woman  fi\«e  feet  four 
inches.  All  the  women  were  tattooed  upon  the  chin  with  three 
small  lines,  which  is  a  general  distinguishing  mark  of  the  riii:'  sex 
along  this  coast ;  this  is  effected  by  drawing  a  blackened  piece  of 
thread  through  tiie  skin  with  a  needle,  as  with  the  Greenlanders. 
Their  hair  was  done  up  in  large  blaits  on  each  side  of  the  head,  as 
described  by  Captain  Parry  at  Melville  Peninsula.  We  noticed  a 
practice  here  amongst  the  women,  similar  to  that  which  is  common 
with  the  Arabs,  which  consisted  of  blacking  tlie  edges  of  the  eye- 
lids with  plumbago  rubbed  up  with  a  little  saliva  upon  a  piece  of 
slate.  All  the  men  had  labrets,  and  both  sexes  had  their  teeth 
much  worn  down,  probably  by  the  constant  application  of  them  to 
hard  substances,  of  which  their  dresses,  implements,  and  canoes  are 
made. 

They  had  several  rude  knives,  probably  obtained  from  the  Ts- 
chutschi, some  lumps  of  iron  pyrites,  and  pieces  of  amber  strung 

♦  A  cape  close  to  this  has  been  nnined  Cape  Ricord  by  the  Russians. 


^^mia^s^i^^immm 


nsDi 


'.'  V 


18-26.] 


AND  BEERING  b   STRAIT. 


2-27 


round  their  neck ;  but  I  could  not  learn  where  they  had  procured 
them. 

As  soon  as  we  finished  the  necessary  observations  with  the  artifi- 
cial horizon,  to  the  no  small  diversion  and  surprise  of  our  inquisi- 
tive companions,  we  paid  a  visit  to  the  next  valley,  where  we  found 
a  small  village  situated  close  upon  a  fine  stream  of  fresh  water  flow- 
ing from  a  large  bed  of  thawing  snow.  The  banks  of  the  brook 
were  ferti'e.  but  vegetation  was  more  diminutive  here  than  in  Kot- 
zebue  Sound;  notwithstanding  which,  several  plants  were  found 
which  did  not  exist  there.  The  tents  were  constructed  of  skins 
loosely  stretched  over  a  few  spars  of  drift-wood,  and  were  neither 
wind  nor  water  tight.  They  were,  as  usual,  filthy,  but  suitable  to 
the  taste  of  their  inhabitants,  who  no  doubt  saw  nothing  in  them 
that  was  revolting.  The  natives  testified  much  pleasure  at  our  visit, 
and  placed  before  us  several  dishes,  among  which  were  two  of  their 
choicest — the  entrails  of  a  fine  seal,  and  a  bowl  of  coagulated 
blood.  But,  desirous  as  we  were  to  oblige  them,  there  was  not  one 
of  our  party  that  could  be  induced  to  partake  of  their  hosnitality. 
Seeing  our  reluctance,  they  tried  us  with  another  dish,  consisting  of 
the  raw  flesh  of  the  narwhal,  nicely  cut  into  lumps,  with  an  equal 
distribution  of  black  and  white  fat ;  but  they  were  not  more  success- 
ful here  than  at  first. 

An  old  man  then  braced  a  skin  upon  a  tambourine  frame,  and 
striking  it  with  a  bone  gave  the  signal  for  a  dance,  which  was  im- 
mediately performed  to  a  chorus  of  Angna  aya  !  angna  aya  !  the 
tambourine  marking  time  by  being  flourished  and  twirled  n'»out 
against  a  short  stick  instead  of  being  struck.  The  musician,  who 
was  also  the  principal  dancer,  jumped  into  the  ring,  and  threw  his 
body  into  different  attitudes  until  quite  exhausted,  and  then  resign- 
ed his  oflSce  to  another,  from  whom  it  passed  to  a  lad,  who  occa- 
sioned more  merriment  by  his  grimaces  and  ludicrous  behaviour 
than  any  of  his  predecessors.  His  song  was  joined  by  the  young 
women,  who  until  then  had  been  mute  and  almost  motionless,  but 
who  now  acquitted  themselves  with  equal  spirit  with  their  leader, 
twisting  their  bodies,  twirling  their  arms  about,  and  violently  rub- 
bing their  sides  with  their  garments,  which,  from  some  ridiculous 
association  no  doubt,  occasioned  considerable  merriment. 

Against  an  obscure  part  of  the  cliff  near  the;  village  we  noticed  a 
broad  iron-headed  halberd  placed  erect,  with  several  bows  and  quiv- 
ers of  arrows  ;  and  near  them  a  single  arrovv,  with  a  tuft  of  feathers 
attached  to  it,  suspended  to  the  rocK.  The  Esquimaux  were  re- 
luctant to  answer  our  inquiries  concerning  this  arrangement,  and 
were  much  displeased  when  we  approached  the  place.  From  the 
conduct  of  the  natives  at  Schismareff  Inlet  foward  Captain  Kotze- 
bue,  it  is  not  impossible  that  the  shooting  of  this  arrow  may  be  a 


•;  1.3" 


ai' 


% 


\       > 


\\ 


JJ,^.      .' 


I\ 


i<- 


'i  ^ 


228 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[August, 


signal  of  hostility,  as  those  people,  after  eying  him  attentively  and 
suspiciously,  paddled  quickly  away,  and  threw  two  arrows  with 
bunches  of  feathers  fastened  to  them  toward  their  habitations,  whence 
shortly  afterwards  issued  two  baidars,  who  approached  Captain 
Kotzebue  with  very  doubtful  intentions. 

Upon  an  eninence  beyond  this  cliff  we  found  several  dogs  teth- 
ered to  stakes ;  and  all  the  little  children  of  the  village,  who  had 
perhaps  been  sent  out  of  the  way,  and  who,  on  seeing  us,  set  up  a 
general  lamentation. 

After  viewing  this  village,  we  ascended  Cape  Thomson,  and 
disco-  -red  low  land  jutting  out  from  the  coast  to  the  W.  N.  W.  as 
far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  As  this  point  had  never  been  placed 
in  our  charts,  I  named  it  Point  Hope,  in  compliment  to  Sir  Will- 
iam Johnstone  Hope. 

Having  buried  a  bottle  for  Captain  Franklin  upon  the  eminence, 
we  took  leave  of  our  friends,  and  made  sail  towards  the  ship,  which, 
in  consequence  of  a  current,  was  far  to  leeward,  although  she  had 
been  beating  the  whole  day  with  every  sail  set.  We  continued  to 
press  the  ship  during  the  night,  in  order  to  maintain  our  position, 
that  the  barge  might  join  ;  but  the  current  ran  so  strong,  that  the 
next  morning,  finding  we  lost  rather  than  gained  ground,  I  hoie 
away  to  trace  the  extent  of  the  low  point  discovered  from  Cape 
Thompson.  On  nearing  it,  we  perceived  a  forest  of  stakes  driven 
into  the  ground  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  the  property  of  the  na- 
tives off  the  ground ;  and  beneath  them  several  round  hillocks,  which 
we  afterwards  found  to  be  the  Esquimaux  yourts,  or  underground 
winter  habitations.  The  wind  fell  very  light  off  this  point,  and  I 
went  in  the  gig  to  pay  a  visit  to  the  village,  leaving  directions  to 
anchor  the  ship  in  case  the  wind  continued  light.  After  rowing  a 
considerable  time,  we  found  a  current  running  so  strong  that  we  did 
not  make  any  progress,  and  it  was  as  mu^h  as  we  could  do  to  get 
back  to  the  ship,  which  had  in  the  mean  time  been  anchored  with 
the  bower,  having  previously  parted  from  the  kedge. 

The  current  was  now  running  W.  by  N.  at  the  rate  of  three  miles 
an  hour.  About  five  o'clock  the  next  morning,  however,  it  slack- 
ened to  a  mile  and  a  half  and  the  boats  were  sent  to  creep  for  the 
kedge  anchor,  but  it  could  not  be  found.  A  thick  fog  afterwards 
came  on,  which  kept  us  at  anchor  until  the  next  day.  During  this 
time  signal  guns  were  fired  every  two  hours,  as  well  on  account  of 
Captain  Franklin  as  of  our  own  boat. 

On  the  fifth  we  weighed,  and  set  the  studding-sails,  but  the  ship 
would  not  steer,  and  came  broadside  to  the  tide,  in  spite  of  the 
helm  and  three  boats  ahead  ;  and  continued  in  this  position  until  a 
fresh  breeze  sprang  up  from  the  northward. 

It  is  necessary  here  to  give  some  further  particulars  of  this  cur- 


1826.] 


AND    BEERINQ  S    STRAIT. 


339 


rent,  in  order  that  it  may  not  be  supposed  that  the  whole  body  of 
water  between  the  two  great  continents  was  setting  into  the  Polar 
Sea  at  so  considerable  a  rate.  By  sinking  the  patent  log  first  five 
fathoms,  and  then  three  fathoms,  and  allowing  it  to  remain  in  the 
first  instance  six  hours,  and  in  the  latter  twelve  hours,  it  was  clear- 
ly ascertained  that  there  was  no  currant  at  either  of  those  depths  ; 
but  at  the  distance  of  nine  feet  from  the  surface  the  motion  of  the 
water  was  nearly  equal  to  that  at  the  top.  Hence  we  must  con- 
cliuie  that  the  current  was  superficial,  and  confined  to  a  depth  be- 
tween nine  and  twelve  feet. 

By  the  freshness  of  the  water  alongside,  there  is  every  reason  to 
believe  that  the  current  was  occasioned  by  the  many  rivers  which, 
at  this  time  of  the  year,  empty  themselves  into  the  sea  in  different 
parts  of  the  coast,  beginning  with  SchismarefF  Inlet.  The  specific 
gravity  of  the  sea  off' that  place  was  1.02502,  from  which  it  gradu- 
ally decreased,  and  at  our  station  off" the  point  was  1.0173,  the  tem- 
perature at  each  being  58°.  On  the  other  hand,  the  strength  of  the 
stream  had  gradually  increased  from  half  a  mile  an  hour  to  three  miles, 
'vhich  was  its  greatest  rapidity.  So  far  there  is  nothing  extraor- 
dinary in  the  fact ;  but  why  this  body  of  water  should  continually 
press  to  the  northward  in  preference  to  taking  any  other  direction, 
or  gradually  expending  itself  in  the  sea,  is  a  question  of  considera- 
ble interest. 

In  the  afternoon  the  barge  was  discovered  at  anchor,  cloze  in- 
shore, and  being  favoured  with  a  breeze  the  ship  was  brought  close 
to  the  point.  This  enabled  me  to  land,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Collie, 
who,  while  I  was  occupied  wifh  my  theodolite,went  toward  the  huts, 
which  at  first  appeared  to  be  deserted ;  but  as  he  was  examining 
them  several  old  women  and  children  made  their  appearance,  and 
gave  him  a  friendly  reception.  He  brou^^nt  them  to  me,  and  we  un- 
derwent the  full  delights  of  an  affectionate  Esquimaux  salutation. 

The  persons  of  our  new  acauaintance  were  extremely  diminutive, 
dirty,  and  forbidding.  Some  were  blind,  others  decripit ;  and,  dres- 
sed in  greasy  worn-out  clothes,  they  lookea  perfectly  wretched. 
Their  hospitality,  however,  was  even  greater  than  we  could  desire ; 
and  we  were  dragged  away  by  the  wrists  to  their  hovels,  on  c\p- 
proaching  which  we  passed  between  heaps  of  filth  and  ruined  habi- 
tations, filled  with  stinking  water,  to  a  part  of  the  village  wi.  .i  was 
in  better  repair.  We  were  then  seated  upon  some  skins  placed  for 
the  purpose  ;  and  bowls  of  blubber,  walrus,  and  unicorn  flesh  (jno- 
nodonmonoceros),  with  various  other  delicacies  of  the  same  kind, 
were  successively  offered  as  temptations  to  our  appetite,  which 
nevertheless,  we  felt  no  inclination  to  indulge. 

After  some  few  exchanges,  the  advantage  of  which  was  on  the 
side  of  our  acquaintances,  who  had  nothing  curious  to  part  with,  an 


■'■M 


'1 


n 


w- 


230 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[August, 


k4  )':h^h 


0 


old  man  produced  a  tambourine,  and  seating  himself  upon  the  roof 
of  one  of  the  miserable  hovels,  threw  his  legs  across,  and  commenc- 
ed a  song,  accompanying  it  with  the  tambourine,  with  as  much  ap- 
parent  happiness  as  if  fortune  had  imparted  to  him  every  luxury  of 
life.  The  vivacity  and  humour  of  the  musician  inspired  two  of  the 
old  hags,  who  joined  chorus,  and  threw  themselves  into  a  variety  of 
attitudes,  twisting  their  bodies,  snapping  their  fingers,  and  smirking 
from  behind  their  seal-skin  hoods,  with  as  much  shrewd  meaning  as 
if  they  had  been  half  a  century  younger.  Several  little  chubby 
girls,  roused  by  the  music,  came  blinking  at  the  daylight  through 
the  greasy  roofs  of  the  subten-anean  abodes,  and  joined  the  perform- 
ance ;  and  we  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  a  set  of  people  happy, 
who  did  not  appear  to  possess  a  single  comfort  upon  earth. 

The  village  consisted  of  a  number  of  "  yourts,"  excavated  in  a 
ridge  of  mud  and  gravel,  which  had  been  heaped  up  in  a  parallel 
line  with  the  beach.  Their  construction  more  nearly  approached 
to  the  habitations  of  the  Tschutschi  than  those  of  the  Esquimaux 
of  Greenland.  They  consisted  of  two  pits  about  eight  feet  deep, 
conmiunicating  by  a  door  at  the  bottom.  The  inner  one  iiati  a 
dome-shaped  roof,  made  with  dry  wood  or  bones  ;  it  was  covered 
with  turf,  that  rose  about  four  feet  above  tho  surface  of  the  earth. 
In  the  centre  of  this  there  was  a  circular  hole  or  window,  covered 
with  a  piece  of  skin  (part  of  the  intestine  of  the  whale),  which  gave, 
however,  but  very  little  light.  The  outer  pit  had  a  flat  roof,  and 
was  entered  by  a  square  hole,  over  which  there  was  a  shed  to  pro- 
tect it  from  the  snow  and  the  inclemency  of  the  weather.  A  loide 
ladder  led  to  a  floor  of  loose  boards,  beneath  which  our  noses  as 
well  as  our  eyes  were  greeted  by  a  pool  of  dirty  green  water.  The 
inner  chamber  was  the  sleeping  and  cooking  room. 

Another  yourt,  to  which  a  store  of  provision  was  attached  by  a 
low  subterraneous  passage,  was  examined  by  Lieutenant  Belcher 
the  ensuing  year  :  it  was  in  other  respects  very  similar,  and  needs 
no  particular  description.  Cf  these  yourts,  one  was  of  much  larger 
dimensions  than  the  others,  which,  it  was  intimated  by  the  natives, 
was  constructed  for  the  purpose  of  dancing  and  amusing  themselves. 
Mr.  Belcher  was  particularly  struck  with  the  cleanliness  of  tlie 
boards  and  sleeping  places  in  the  interior  of  the  yourt  he  examined ; 
whereas  the  passage  and  entrance  were  allowed  to  remain  in  a  very 
filthy  condition.  The  aii-  was  too  oppressive  to  continue  in  them 
for  any  length  of  time.  Every  yourt  had  its  rafters  for  placing 
sledges,  skins  of  oil,  or  other  articles  upon  in  the  winter  time,  to  pre- 
vent their  being  buried  in  the  smow.  The  number  of  these  frames, 
some  bearing  sledges,  and  others  the  skeletons  of  boats,  formed  a 
complete  wood,  and  had  attracted  our  notice,  at  the  distance 
of  six  or  seven  miles.     Of  the  many  yourts  which  composed  the 


.   .....i^KuiC'.^i 


1826.] 


AND  BKURINO  »   STRAIT. 


231 


village,  very  few  were  occupied ;  the  otliers  had  tlieir  entrances 
blocked  up  with  logs  of  drift-wood  and  the  ribs  of  whales.  From 
this  circumstance,  and  the  infirm  condition  of  almost  all  who  remain- 
ed at  the  village,  it  was  evident  that  the  inhabitants  had  gone  on  a 
sealing  excursion,  to  provide  a  supply  of  food  for  the  the  winter. 
The  natives,  when  we  were  about  to  take  our  leave,  accompanied 
us  to  the  boat,  and,  as  we  pushed  off,  they  each  picked  up  a  few 
pebbles,  and  carried  them  away  with  them,  but  for  what  purpose 
we  could  not  guess,  nor  had  we  ever  seen  the  custom  before. 

The  point  upon  which  this  village  stands,  projects  almost  sixteen 
miles  from  the  general  line  of  coast ;  it  is  intersected  by  several  lakes 
and  small  creeks,  the  entrances  of  which  are  on  the  north  side. 
There  is  a  bar  across  the  mouth  of  the  opening,  consisting  of  peb- 
bles and  mud,  which  has  every  appearance  of  beirgonthe  increase  ; 
but  when  the  water  is  smooth  a  boat  may  enter,  apd  she  will  find 
very  excellent  security  within  from  all  winds.  It  is  remarkable  that 
both  Cook  and  Gierke,  who  passed  within  a  very  short  distance 
of  this  point,  mistook  the  projection  for  ice  that  had  been  driven 
against  the  land,  and  omitted  to  mark  in  their  chart. 

The  next  morning  we  communicated  with  the  barge,  and   found 
she  had  been  visited  daily  by  the  natives,  who  were  very  friendly. 
The  current  in-shore  was  more  rapid  than  in  the  offing,  and  the  wa- 
ter more  fresh.     After  replenishing  her  provisions,  we  steered  to  the 
northward,  and  endeavoured  to  get  in  with  the  land  on  the  north- 
ern side  of  Point  Hope  ;  but  the  wind  was  so  light  that  we  could 
not  hold  our  ground  against  the  current,  and  were  drifted  away 
slowly  to  the  northward.     In    the  morning,  the  wind  being  still 
unfavourable  for  this  purpose,  we  steered  for  the  farthest  land  in 
sight  to  the  northward,  which  answered  to  cape  Lisburn  of  Captain 
Cook.     As  we  approached  it,  the  current  slackened,  and  the  depth 
and  specific  gravity  of  the  sea  both  increased.     We  landed  here, 
and  ascended  the  mountain  to  obtain  a  fair  view  of  the  coast,  which 
we  found  turned  to  the  eastward,  nearly  at  a  right  angle,  and  then 
to  the  north-eastward,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  .trace.     Our  height 
was  850  feet  above  the  sea,  and  at  so  short  a  distance  from  it  on 
one  side,  that  it  was  fearful  to  look  down  upon  the  beach  below. 
We  ascended  by  a  valley  which  collected  the  tributary  streams  of 
the  mountain,  and  poured  them  in  a  cascade  upon  the  beach.   The 
basis  of  the  mountain  was  flint  of  the  purest  kind,  and  limestone, 
abounding  in  fossil  shells,  enchinites,  and  marine  animals. 

There  was  very  little  soil  in  the  valley ;  the  stones  were  covered 
with  a  thick  swampy  moss ,  which  we  traversed  with  great  difficulty, 
and  were  soon  wet  through  by  it.  Vegetation  was,  however,  as 
luxuriant  as  in  Kotzebue  Sound,  more  than  a  hundred  miles  to  the 
southward,  or,  what  is  ofmore  consequence,  more  than  that  distance 


I  f 


^ 


U 


71 

1 


-Msiif:. 


i 


jttf,     r 

*  Mi  '  ! 


989 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[August, 


farther  from  the  great  barrier  of  ice.  Several  reindeer  were  feeding 
on  this  hixuriant  pasture  :  the  chfFs  were  covered  with  birds ;  and 
the  swamps  generated  myriads  of  moskitos,  which  were  more  per- 
severing, if  possible,  than  those  at  Chamisso  Island. 

After  depositing  a  bottle  at  this  place,  and  leaving  proper  direc- 
tions upon  the  cliff  for  finding  it,  we  pursued  our  course  to  the  east- 
ward,  accompanied  by  the  barge.  The  wind  was  light,  and  we  made 
so  little  progress,  that  on  the  9th  Cape  Lisburn  was  still  in  sight. 
Before  it  was  entirely  lost  I  landed  at  a  small  cape,  which  I  named 
Cape  Beaufort,  in  compliment  to  Captain  Beaufort,  the  present 
liydrographer  to  the  Admirality.  The  land  northward  was  low  and 
swampy,  covered  with  moss  and  long  grass,  which  produced  all  tiie 
plants  we  had  met  with  to  the  southward,  and  two  or  three  besides. 
Cape  Beaufort  is  composed  of  sandstone,  enclosing  bits  of  petrified 
wood  and  rushes,  and  is  traversed  by  narrow  veins  of  coal  lying  in 
an  E.  N.  E.  and  W.  S.  W.  direction.  That  at  the  surface  was  dry 
and  bad,  but  some  pieces  which  had  been  thrown  up  by  the  burrow- 
ing of  a  small  animal,  probably  the  ermine,  burned  very  well. 

As  this  is  a  part  of  the  coast  hitherto  unexplored,  I  may  stand 
excused  for  being  a  little  more  particular  in  my  description.  Cape 
Beaufort  is  situated  in  the  depthof  a  greatbay,  formed  between  Cape 
Lisburn  and  Icy  Cape,  and  is  the  last  point  where  the  hills  come 
close  down  to  the  sea,  by  reason  of  the  coast  line  curving  to  the  north- 
ward, while  the  range  of  hills  continues  its  former  direction.  From 
the  rugged  mountains  of  limestone  and  flint  at  Cape  Lisburn,  there 
is  an  uniform  descent  to  the  rounded  hills  of  sandstone  at  Cape 
Beaufort  just  described.  The  range  is  however,  broken  by  exten- 
sive valleys,  intersected  by  lakes  and  rivers.  Some  of  these  lakes 
border  upon  the  sea,  and  in  the  summer  months  are  accessible  to 
baidars,  or  even  large  boats  ;  but  as  soon  as  the  current  from  the  beds 
of  thawing  snow  inland  ceases,  the  sea  throws  up  a  bar  across  the 
mouths  of  them,  and  they  cannot  be  entered.  The  beach,  at  the 
places  where  we  landed,  was  shingle  and  mud,  the  country  mossy 
and  swampy,  and  infested  with  moskitos.  We  noticed  recent  tracks 
of  wolves,  and  of  some  cloven-footed  animals,  and  saw  several  ptar- 
migans, ortolans,  and  a  lark.  Very  little  drift-wood  had  found  its 
way  upon  this  part  of  the  coast. 

We  reached  the  ship  just  after  a  thick  fog  came  in,  from  seaward, 
and  only  a  short  time  before  the  increasing  breeze  obliged  her  to 
quit  the  coast.  During  my  absence  the  boats  had  been  sent  to  ex- 
amine a  large  floating  mass  which  excited  a  good  deal  of  curiosity 
at  the  time,  and  found  it  to  be  the  carcass  of  a  dead  whale.  It  had 
an  Esquimaux  harpoon  in  it,  and  a  drag  attached,  made  of  an  infla- 
ted sealskin,  which  had  no  doubt  worried  the  animal  to  death.  Thus, 
with  knowledge  just  proportioned  to  their  wants,  do  these  untutored 


y*^- 


■-^:..,i^,&-f»iim'i  <tmiimt.sm.:. 


!  present 
.  low  and 
3d  all  the 
3  besides. 
f  petrified 
I  lying  in 
e  was  dry 
le  burrow- 
^ell. 

may  stand 
m.     Cape 
/een  Cape 
hills  come 
( the  north- 
jn.     From 
purn,  there 
e  at  Cape 
Dy  exten- 
lese  lakes 
;cessible  to 
m  the  beds 
across  the 
^h,  attlie 
ntry  mossy 
-cent  tracks 
veral  ptar- 
1  found  its 


J  8-26.1 


AND  HEEniNn's  STUAIT. 


J233 


harlmrian.s,  with  their  .slender  boats  and  limited  means,  contrive  to 
take  the  largest  animal  of  the  rroalion.  In  the  present  instance, 
certainly,  their  victim  had  eluded  their  efTorts,  hut  the  carcass  was 
not  yet  "  too  high"  for  an  Esquimaux  palate,  and  would,  no  doubt, 
ere  long,  be  cither  washed  upon  the  shore,  or  discovered  by  somo 
of  tlic  many  wandering  baidars  along  the  coast. 

Some  very  extensive  flocks  of  eider  ducks  had  also  been  seen 
from  the  ship.  They  consisted  entirely  of  females  and  young  ones, 
the  greater  part  of  which  could  not  fly,  but  they  nevertheless  contriv- 
ed to  evade  pursuit  by  diving. 

On  the  morning  of  the  lOtli  we  were  under  trcljlcrecfed  topsails 
and  foresail,  with  short  head  sea,  in  which  we  pitched  away  the  jib- 
boom.  We  liad  a  thick  fog,  witii  the  wind  at  N.  N.  E.  A  little 
after  noon,  being  in  hit.  70°  09'  N.,  and  165°  10'  W.,  we  had  twen- 
ty-four fathoms  hard  bottom:  wc  then  stood  toward  tlie  shore,  and 
again  changed  the  bottom  to  nuid,  the  depth  of  water  gradually  de- 
creasing. On  the  1 1  th  it  was  calm  ;  by  the  observations  at  noon 
there  had  been  a  current  to  the  S.  W.,  but  this  had  now  ceased,  as 
upon  trial  it  ran  west  one-third  of  a  mile  per  hour,  and  three  hours 
afterward  N.  E.  five-eighths  per  hour,  which  appeared  to  be  the  reg- 
ular tide.  In  the  evening  the  wind  again  blew  from  th^  northward 
and  brought  a  thick  fog  with  it.  We  stood  off  and  on,  guided  by 
the  soundings. 

In  the  morning  of  the  12th  we  saw  a  great  many  birds,  walrusses 
and  small  white  whales ;  from  which  I  concluded  that  we  were 
near  a  stream  of  ice,  but  only  one  peice  was  seen  in  the  evening 
aground.  We  tacked  not  far  from  it  in  ten  fathoms.  As  we  stood 
in-shore,  the  temperature  of  the  sea  always  decreased  ;  the  effect, 
probably,  of  the  rivers  of  melting  snow  mingling  with  it. 

As  it  was  impossible  to  determine  the  continuity  of  coast,  with  the 
weather  so  thick,  farther  than  by  the  gradual  decrease  of  the  sound- 
ings, I  stood  to  the  northward  to  ascertain  the  position  of  the  ice,  the 
wind  having  changed  to  E.  N.  E.  and  become  favourable  for  the 
purpose.     At  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the  13th,  the  fog  clear- 
ed off,  and  exhibited  the  main  body  of  ice  extending  from   N.  79" 
E.  to  S.  29°  W.  (true)     At  nine  we  tackeu  amongst  the  brash,  in 
twenty-three  fathoms  water,  in  lat.  71°  08'  N.,  long.  163''  40'  W. 
The  wind  was  blow^ing  along  the  ice,  and  the  outer  part  of  thejpacfc 
was  in  streams,  some  of  which  the  ship  might  have  entered,  and 
perhaps  have  proceeded  up  them  two  or  three  miles ;  but  as  this 
would  have  served  no  useful  purpose,  and  would  have  occasioned 
unnecessary  delay,  I  again  stood  in  for  the  land,  which  at  eight  o'clock 
at  night  was  seen   in  a  low  unbroken  line,  extending  to  the  west- 
ward as  far  as  Icy  Cape  and  to  the  eastward  as  far  as  the  state  of 
the  weather  would  permit.     We  tacked  at  nine,  in  five  fathoms  wa- 

30 


»>«■'  ii  -" 


^ww 


■  A, 


:\f 


II 


*    J 


934 


VOYAOE  TO  THK  PACIFIC 


[Attgiisi, 


ter,  witliiii  two  milos  of  tlic  slion; ;  and  Liciitcnaiit  HflrluT  wns 
(Icspatclic'd  ill  llu;  cutter  to  cxaiuinc  soiiii!  posts  that  wcru  t'loclcil 
upon  it,  tliinkiiif!;  tliey  uu^hl  possil)ly  have  bfon  placed  tlifro  liy 
tljc  land  uxpodition.  Tiic  boat  found  a  heavy  surf  broakini:  ii|)()ii 
a  sand  bank  at  a  little  distance  from  the  beach,  which  preventt-dlii.i- 
landiiif;;,  and  a  fog  coming  on,  she  was  recalled  before  the  att('iii|)t 
could  be  made  in  another  place.  There  was  a  thick  wetting  fog  du. 
ring  the  night.  The  next  morning  a  boat  was  again  sent  on  shore, 
with  Lieutenant  1  Jidcher,  Messrs.  Collie  and  Wolfe,  to  make  observa- 
tions, collect  plants,  and  erect  a  mark  for  Captain  Franklin.  Tli  y 
liad  nearly  the  same  dilliculty  in  reaching  the  beach,  on  account  of 
shoals,  as  at  the  former  place,  but  there  was  less  swell. 

Shortly  after  noon  I  landed  myself,  and  found  that  at  the  back  of 
the  beacli  there  was  a  lake  two  miles  long,  in  the  direction  of  tliu 
coast ;  it  had  a  shallow  entrance  at  its  south-west  end,  suflicioiitlv 
deep  for  baidars  only.  The  main  land  at  the  back  of  it  |)reson  !■ 
a  range  of  low  earth  clifTs,  behind  which  there  were  some  hills,  n- 
bout  two  hundred  feet  high.  Near  the  entrance  to  the  lake  tlicrc 
were  two  yourts,  inhabited  by  some  Escpiimaux,  who  sold  us  two 
swans  and  four  hundred  pounds  of  venison,  which  being  dividid 
amongst  the  crew,  formed  a  most  acceptable  meal.  These  swans 
were  without  their  feet,  which  had  been  converted  into  bags,  after 
the  practice  uf  the  eastern  Esquimaux  ;  and  it  is  remarkable,  tliat 
although  so  (ar  from  Karnschatka  and  the  usual  track  of  vessels, 
these  people  expressed  no  surprise  at  the  appearance  either  of  tliL 
ship  or  the  boat,  and  that  they  were  provided  both  with  knivc.;.,.! 
iron  kettles. 

In  nur  way  to  the  huts  we  saw  several  human  bones  scattered  a- 
bout,  and  a  skull  which  had  the  teeth  worn  down  nearly  to  tlif 
gums.  There  appeared  to  be  no  place  of  interment  near,  ami  tin' 
body  had  probably  decayed  where  the  bones  were  lying.  So  liiilu 
did  the  natives  care  for  these  mouldering  remains  that  springs  for  catch- 
ing birds  were  set  amongst  them.  The  beach  upon  which  we  landi'd 
was  shingle  and  sand,  interspersed  with  pieces  of  coal,  sandstone,  flint. 
and  porphyritic  granite.  Vegetation  was  very  luxuriant,  and  supplied 
Mr.  Collie  with  three  new  species.  The  drift  wood  was  here  more 
abundant  than  at  any  place  we  before  visited :  it  was  forced  liidi 
upon  the  beach,  probably  by  the  pressure  of  the  ice  when  driven  a- 
^ gainst  the  coast. 

It  was  high  water  at  this  station  at  noon.  The  tide  fell  three 
feet  and  a  half  in  four  hours,  and  ebbed  to  the  south-west.  A  post 
was  here  put  up  for  the  land  expedition,  and  a  bottle  buried  near  it 
We  then  embarked  and  got  on  board,  just  as  a  thick  fog  obscureil 
every  thing,  and  obliged  the  ship  to  stand  ofF  the  coast.  In  the 
course  of  the  afternoon  the  ilredge  was  put  over,  and  supplied  us  with 


y'i 


Hi, 


'"-^fm^'m., 


m6.\ 


AND  UbKllINU  S  bTUAIT. 


836 


some  spcfiinons  of  shells  of  tin?  area,  luurex,  vciuis,  and  buccimnn 
genus,  and  several  l(im|)s  of  coal.  We  stood  to  tlie  i\.  VV.,  and  at 
iniiinii^lit  taeked  amongst  the  loose  iee  at  the  edj^e  of  the  pack  in  so 
ihick  a  l\)^  that  we  could  not  see  a  hundred  yards  around  us. 

At  half  past  five  in  the  niornii:^  a  jjartial  dispersion  of  the  fog 
discovered  to  us  the  land,  hearing  IN.  80°  E.,  extending  in  a  N.  K. 
(liit'ction  as  far  as  \vc  could  see.  At  six  we  tacked  in  eleven  fath- 
oms within  three  miles  of  it,  and  not  far  from  an  opening  into  a  spu- 
rious lake,  which  aj)peared  to  be  the  estuary  of  a  considerable  river. 
There  was  a  shoal  across  the  mouth  connected  with  the  land  on 
the  northern  side,  but  with  a  channel  for  boats  in  theojiposite  direc- 
tion. A  large  piece  of  ice  was  agroimd  near  it.  Tlio  country 
around  was  low,  covered  with  a  brown  moss,  and  intersected  by  wa- 
ter-courses. To  the  northward  of  the  entrance  of  the  lake  the  coast 
became  higher,  and  presented  an  extensive  range  of  mud  cliffs,  ter- 
iiiiiiating  in  a  cape,  which,  as  it  afterwards  proved  the  most  distant 
land  seen  from  the  ship,  1  named  after  Captain  Franklin,  K.  N.,  un- 
der whose  command  J  had  the  pleasure  to  serve  on  the  first  Polar 
expedition :  but  as  this  cape  was  afterwards  found  to  be  a  little  way 
inland,  I  transferred  the  name  to  the  nearest  conspicuous  point  of 
the  coast. 

The  natives,  taking  advantage  of  this  elevated  ground,  had  con- 
structed their  winter  residences  in  it :  they  were  very  numerous, 
and  extended  some  way  along  the  coast.  The  season,  however, 
was  not  yet  arrived  at  which  the  Esquimaux  take  up  their  abode  in 
their  subterranean  habitations,  and  they  occupied  skin  tents  upon  a 
low  point  at  the  entrance  of  the  lake.  We  had  not  been  long  off 
here  before  three  baidars  from  the  village  paddled  alongside  and 
bartered  their  articles  as  usual.  Some  of  the  crew  ascended  the 
side  of  the  ship  without  any  invitation,  and  showed  not  the  least  sur- 
prise at  any  thing  they  beheld,  which  I  could  not  help  particularly 
remarking,  as  we  were  not  conscious  of  any  other  vessel  having 
been  upon  the  coast  since  Kotzebue's  voyage,  and  he  did  not  reach 
witliin  two  hundred  miles  of  the  residence  of  these  peoj)le.  There 
was  nothing  in  our  visiters  different  to  what  we  had  seen  before  ex- 
cept that  they  were  better  dressed.  One  of  them,  pointing  to  the 
sliorc,  drew  his  hand  round  the  northern  horizon  as  far  as  the  south 
west,  by  which  he  no  doubt  intended  to  instruct  us  that  the  ice,  oc- 
cupied that  space  It  would,  however,  have  ansv  cred  ctjually  well 
for  the  land,  supposing  the  coast  beyond  what  we  saw  to  have  taken 
a  circuitous  direction.  With  the  view  of  having  this  explained,  I 
took  him  to  the  side  of  the  ship  on  which  the  land  was,  and  intima- 
ted a  desire  that  he  would  delineate  the  coast  ;  but  he  evidently 
did  not  understand  me,  as  he  and  his  companions  licked  their  hands, 
stroked  their  breasts,  and  then  went  into  their  boats  and  paddled 
on  shore. 


^ 


■J' 


^1 


'Mr 


■ff^' 


\']' 


A    f 


W^ 


236 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


\Aug\m, 


The  appaiently  good-natured  disposition  of  these  people,  and  in- 
deed of  ti  c  whole  of  their  tribe  upon  the  coast  to  this  advanced 
position,  was  a  source  of  the  highest  gratification  to  us  all,  as  it  re- 
garded Captain  Fraiddin's  welfare  ;  ibr  it  was  natural  to  conclude, 
that  the  whole  race,  which  we  had  reason  to  think  extended  a  con- 
siderable distance  to  the  eastward,  would  partake  of  the  same  friendly 
feeling,  and  what  was  by  many  considered  a  material  obstacle  to  his 
success,  would  thereby  be  removed.  At  this  place  in  particular, 
where  the  natives  appeared  to  be  so  numeruus  that  they  could  have 
overpowered  his  party  in  a  minute,  it  was  gratifying  to  find  them  so 
well  disposed. 

After  the  natives  were  gone,  we  stood  to  the  north-westward,  in 
the  hope  rhat  the  wind,  which  had  been  a  long  time  in  the  north- 
eastern quarter,  would  remain  steady  until  we  ascertained  the  point 
of  conjunction  of  the  ice  and  the  land,  which,  from  its  rosition  when 
seen  in  the  moi'ning,  there  was  much  reason  to  suppose  would  be 
near  the  extreme  point  of  land  in  view  from  the  mast-head.  Un- 
fortunately, while  wo  were  doing  this  the  wind  fell  light,  and  grad- 
ually drew  round  to  the  north-westward  ;  and  apprehending  it  might 
get  so  far  in  that  direction  as  to  embav  the  ship  between  the  land 
and  the  ice,  it  becaiut  my  duty  to  consider  the  propriety  of  await- 
ing the  result  of  S'lch  a  cliange  ;  knowing  the  necessity  of  keeping 
the  ship  in  open  water,  and  at  all  times,  as  far  as  could  be  done, 
free  from  risk,  in  order  to  insure  her  return  to  the  rendezvous  in 
Kctzebue  Sound.  There  was  at  this  time  no  ice  in  sight  from  the 
ship,  except  a  berg  that  was  aground  in-shore  of  her  ;  and  tlioii|^li 
a  blink  round  the  northi^rn  horizon  indicated  ice  in  that  direction, 
yet  the  prospect  ^vas  so  fliittering  that  a  general  regret  was  enter- 
tained that  an  attempt  to  effect  the  north-eastern  passage  did  not 
form  the  object  of  the  expedition.  We  all  felt  the  grentest  desire 
to  advance,  but  considering  what  would  be  the  consequences  oi"aiiy 
accident  bcD.lling  the  rliip,  which  might  eitlier  oblige  her  to  quit  these 
seas  at  once,  ';r  prevent  her  relurnh)g  to  them  a  second  year,  it  was 
evident  that  by  hor  being  kept  in  open  water  w;:  <  jiaramount  to  every 
other  consideration  ;  particularly  as  she  had  Ikoii  furnislied  with  a 
decked  launch,  well  ada])te(l  by  her  size  to  prosecute  a  service  of 
this  nature.  It  was  one  of  tliose  critical  situations  in  which  an  oflicer 
is  sometimes  unavoidably  placed,  and  had  further  discovery  depen- 
ded upon  the  l?losson>  alone,  it  io  probable  I  should  have  jjrocoeded 
at  all  hazards.  ]\Iy  ordei  ,  however,  being  i)03itive  to  avoid  the 
chance  of  being  beset  in  tiic  ship,  I  considered  only  how  I  coiihl 
most  beneficially  empioy  both  vessels,  anc',  at  the  same  time,  com- 
ply with  the  sj>irit  of  my  instructions.  Thus  cij-cumstanced,  I  dc- 
iLrmined  to  get  hold  of  the  barge  as  soon  as  possible,  and  to  de- 
spatch her  along  the  coast,  botli  with  a  view  of  rendering  Captain 


Franl 


TT* 


1826.] 


AND  BEERING  S  STRAIT. 


237 


p. 


e,  and  in- 

adviinced 
as  it  re- 
conclude, 
led  a  con- 
le  rriendl)- 
acle  to  his 
paiticular, 
iould  have 
k1  them  so 

stuavd,  in 
the  north- 
i  the  point 
iition  when 
Avould  be 
cad.     Un- 
,  and  grad- 
ing it  might 
[\  the  land 
'  of  await- 
of  keeping 
1  bo  done, 
dezvous  in 
it  from  the 
md  though 
t  direction, 
was  enter- 
a;e  did  not 
test  desire 
noes  of  any 
p  quit  diese 
,'ear,  it  was 
iiUto  every 
lied  with  a 
«crvice  of 
h  an  officer 
?ry  dcpeii- 
jirocceded 
avoid  the 
w  1  could 
iiiie,  coiii- 
ced,  I  de- 
ad to  de- 
Caplaiu 


Franklin's  party  the  earliest  possible  assistance,  and  of  ascertaining 
how  far  it  was  possible  for  a  boat  to  go.  Not  a  moment  was  to  be 
lost  in  putting  this  project  b  execution,  as  the  middle  of  August 
was  arrived,  and  we  could  not  calculate  on  a  continuance  of  the 
line  weather  with  which  we  had  hitherto  been  favoured.  We  ac- 
cordingly returned  towards  Icy  Cape,  in  order  to  join  the  barge 
which  was  surveying  in  that  direction. 

We  passed  along  the  land  in  about  eight  fathoms  water  until  near 
Icy  Cape,  when  we  came  rather  suddenly  into  three  fathoms  and 
three  quarters,  but  immedi  itely  deepened  the  soundings  again  to 
seven  :  the  next  cast,  howtver,  was  four  fathoms ;  and  not  know- 
ing how  soon  we  might  have  less,  the  ship  was  immediately  brought 
to  an  anchor.  Upon  examination  with  the  boats,  several  succes- 
sive banks  were  found  at  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  apart,  lying 
parallel  with  the  coa^i  iine.  Upon  the  outer  ones,  there  were  only 
three  and  a  half  or  four  fathoms,  and  upon  the  inner  bank,  which 
had  hitherto  escaped  notice  from  being  under  the  sun,  so  little  wa- 
ter that  the  sea  broke  constantly  over  it.  Between  the  shoals  there 
were  nine  and  ten  fathoms,  with  very  irregular  casts.  These  shoals 
lie  immediately  off  Icy  Cape,  where  the  land  takes  an  abrupt  turn 
to  the  eastward,  and  are  probably  the  effect  of  a  large  river,  which 
here  empties  itself  into  the  sea  ;  though  they  may  be  occasioned  by 
heavy  ice  grounding  off  the  point,  and  being  fixed  to  the  bottom, 
i'  we  found  our  anchor  had  so  firm  a  hold,  that  in  attempting  to 
weigh  it  the  chain  cable  broke,  after  enduring  a  very  heavy  strain. 
This  cape,  the  farthest  point  reached  by  Captain  Cook,  was  at 
the  time  of  its  discovery  very  mncii  encumbered  with  ice,  whence 
it  received  its  name  ;  none,  however,  was  now  visible.  The  cape 
is  very  low,  and  has  a  large  lake  at  the  back  of  it,  which  receives 
the  water  of  a  considerable  river,  and  comnmnicates  with  the  sea 
'hrough  a  narrow  channel  much  encumbered  with  shoals.  There 
are  several  winter  habitations  of  the  Esquimaux  upon  the  cape, 
ivbich  were  afterwards  visited  by  Lieutenant  Belcher.  The  main 
land  on  both  sides  of  Icy  Cape,  from  Wainwright  Inlet  on  one  side 
to  Cape  Beaufort  on  the  other,  is  flat,  and  covered  with  swampy 
moss.  It  presents  u  line  of  low  mud  cliffs,  between  which  and  a 
sliingly  beach  that  every  where  forms  the  coast-line  thei-e  is  a  suc- 
cession of  narrow  lakes  capable  of  being  navigated  by  baidars  or 
small  boats.  Off  here  we  saw  a  great  many  black  whales — more 
than  I  remember  ever  to  have  seen,  even  in  Baffin's  Bay. 

Afte-  the  boats  had  examined  the  shoal  outside  the  ship,  we  at- 
tempted to  weigh  the  anchor ;  but  in  so  doing  we  broke  first  the 
lucsseiiger,  and  afterwards  the  chain,  by  which  the  anchor  was  lost, 
a>I  before  mentioned,  and  the  buoy-rope  having  been  carried  away 
lii  lelimg  it  go,  il  was  never  recovered. 


^: 


*; 


n 


!■;  n 


t 


/ 


-•4 


2;j8 


VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[August, 


We  passed  over  two  shoals  in  three  and  four  fathoms,  deepeninn- 
the  water  to  ten  and  eleven  fathoms  between  them,  and  then  held 
our  ground  for  the  night.  A  thick  fog  came  on  towards  morning, 
which  lasted  until  noon,  when  it  cleared  away,  and  we  had  the  sat- 
isfaction to  be  joined  by  the  barge. 

Since  our  separation,  Mr.  Elson  had  kept  close  along  the  bead). 
and  ascertained  the  continuity  of  the  land  from  the  spot  where  the 
ship  quitted  the  coast  to  this  place,  thereby  removing  all  doubts  on 
that  head,  and  proving  that  Captain  Franklin  would  not  find  a  pas- 
sage south  of  the  cape  to  which  I  had  given  his  name.  The  sound- 
ings were  every  where  regular,  a*-  1  the  natives  always  friendly, 
though  not  numerous.  Their  habitations  were  invariably  upon  low 
strips  of  sand  bordering  upon  some  brackish  lakes,  which  extended 
along  the  coast  in  such  a  manner,  that  in  case  the  ice  was  driven 
against  it,  a  good  inland  navigation  might  be  performed,  transporting 
a  small  boat  across  the  narrow  necks  that  separate  them. 

Drift-wood  was  every  where  abundant,  though  least  so  on  such 
parts  of  the  coast  as  had  a  western  aspect,  but  without  any  appar- 
ent reason  for  this  difference.  After  supplying  the  barge  with  wa- 
ter, we  beat  to  the  northward  together,  but  found  so  strong  a  south 
westerly  current  running  round  Icy  Cape,  that,  the  ship  being  light, 
we  could  gain  nothing  to  the  windward ;  and  observing  that  the 
barge  had  the  advantage  of  us  by  keeping  in-shore,  and  that  we 
were  only  a  hindrance  to  her,  I  made  her  signal  to  close  us,  and 
prepared  her  for  the  interesting  service  in  view.  My  intentions 
were  no  sooner  made  known  than  I  had  urgent  applications  for  the 
command  of  the  barge  from  the  superior  officers  of  the  ship,  who, 
with  the  ardour  natural  to  their  profession  when  any  enterprise  is  in 
view,  came  forward  in  the  readiest  manner,  and  volunteered  their 
services;  but  Mr.  Elson,  the  master,  who  had  hitherto  commanded 
the  boat,  had  acquitted  himself  so  much  to  my  satisfaction,  that  I 
could  not  in  justice  remove  him  ;  more  especially  at  a  moment  when 
the  service  to  be  performed  was  inseparable  from  risk.  Mr.  Smyth 
the  seinor  mate  of  the  ship,  was  placed  with  Mr.  Elson,  who  had  be- 
sides under  his  command  a  crew  of  six  seamen  and  two  marines. 

My  instructions  to  Mr.  Elson  vrere  to  trace  the  shore  to  the  noith- 
castward  as  far  as  it  was  possible  for  a  boat  to  navigate,  with  a  view 
to  render  the  earliest  jiossible  assistance  to  Captain  Franklin,  and 
to  obtain  what  information  he  could  of  the  trending  of  the  const  and 
of  the  position  of  the  ice.  He  was  also  directed  to  possess  himself 
of  facts  which,  in  the  event  of  the  failure  of  the  other  expedition. 
would  enable  us  to  form  a  judgment  of  the  probable  success  wiiich 
might  attend  an  attempt  to  effect  a  north-eastern  i)assagc  in  this 
quarter  :  and  further,  lie  was  to  avoid  being  beset  in  the  ice,  hy  re- 
turning inmicdiately  the  wind  should  get  to  the  north-west  or  west- 


■|IVM«M<r> 


1826.] 


AND  BEEUINC  9  STRAIT. 


239 


ward,  and  not  to  prolong  his  absence  from  the  ship  beyond  the  first 
week  in  September.  He  was  at  the  same  time  ordered  to  place 
landmarks  and  directions  in  conspicuous  places  for  Captain  Frank- 
lin's guidance  ;  and  if  possible,  on  his  return,  to  examine  the  shoals 
off  Icy  Cape. 

We  steered  together  to  the  northward  with  foggy  weather  until 
midnight  on  the  17th,  when  I  made  Mr.  Elson's  signal  to  part  com- 
pany, and  he  commenced  his  interesting  expedition  with  the  good 
wishes  of  all  on  board.  We  continued  our  course  to  the  northvvai'd 
uniii  four  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the  18th,  when  the  fog,  as  is 
ususal  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  ice,  cleared  away,  and  we  saw 
tiie  main  body  in  latitude  71°  07'  N.  nearly  in  the  same  position  we 
had  left  it  some  days  before.  It  was  loose  at  the  edge,  but  close 
within,  and  consisted  of  heavy  floes.  We  tacked  near  it,  and  found 
it  trending  from  E.  to  S.  W.  (mag.)  There  were  no  living  things 
near  it,  except  a  few  tern  and  kittiwakes ;  which  was  rather  re- 
markable, as  the  edge  of  the  ice  is  usually  frequented  by  herds  of 
amphibious  animals.  As  we  receded  from  the  ice,  the  fog  again 
thickened,  and  latterly  turned  to  small  snow.  The  temperature 
was  about  the  freezing  point.  At  noon  the  sun  broke  through,  and 
we  found  ourselves  in  latitude  70°  18'  N.,  and  by  the  soundings 
about  twelve  miles  from  the  lanr',  which  was  not  seen.  By  this  we 
discovered  that  instead  of  gaining  twenty  miles  to  the  eastward,  we 
had  lost  four  :  by  which  it  was  evident  that  a  current  had  been  run- 
ning S.  58°  W.  a  mile  an  hour  ;  off  this  place,  however,  it  was 
found  upon  trial  to  run  S.  60°  W.  only  half  a  mile  per  hour.  The 
fog  afterwaids  came  on  very  thick  and  remained  so  during  the  day. 

Finding  the  inconvenience  from  the  current  offlcy  Cape,  I  steer- 
ed to  the  westward,  to  ascertain  how  near  the  ice  approached  the 
coast  in  that  direction ;  and  on  the  20th,  I  stood  in  for  the  land 
which  is  about  midway  between  Cape  Beaufort  and  Icy  Cape,  to 
verify  some  points  of  the  survey.  About  this  time  immense  flocks 
of  ducks,  consisting  entirely  of  young  ones  and  females,  were  seen 
mis^rating  to  the  southward.  The  young  birds  could  not  fly ;  and 
not  having  the  instinct  to  avoid  the  sliip  in  time,  one  immense  flock 
was  run  completly  over  by  her.  They,  however,  were  more  wary 
when  tlie  boats  were  lowered,  and  successfully  avoided  our  attempts 
to  shoot  them,  by  diving.  At  the  place  where  we  landed,  there 
was  a  long  lake  between  us  and  the  main  land ;  and  our  walk  was 
confincil  to  a  strip  of  shingle  and  sand,  about  150  yards  wide,  and 
about  six  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  In  the  sheltered  parts  of 
it  there  were  a  few  flowers,  but  no  new  species.  The  lake  was 
connected  with  the  sea  at  high  tide,  and  was  consequently  salt ;  but 
we  obtained  some  water  sufliciently  fresh  to  drink  by  digging  at  a 
distance  of  less  than  a  yard  from  its  margin,  a  resource  of  which  the 
natives  appeared  to  be  well  aware. 


*■ 


m 


m 


i!wr 


^ 


240 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[August, 


'<tt 


Kt'       '^ 


?:      '\ 


\  • 


An  abundance  of  drift  wood  was  licaped  upon  the  upper  part  of 
the  shingle.  Tlie  trees  were  torn  up  by  tlie  roots,  and  some  wcie 
worm-eaten  ;  but  the  greater  part  appeared  to  have  been  only  a 
short  time  at  sea,  and  ail  of  it,  that  I  examined,  was  pine. 

From  the  desolate  appearance  of  the  coast  where  we  landed,  I 
scarcely  expected  to  find  a  human  being,  but  we  had  no  sooner  put 
our  foot  ashore  than  a  biadar  full  of  people  landed  a  short  distance 
from  us.  Her  crew  consisted  of  three  grown-up  males  and  four  fe- 
males,  besides  two  infants.  They  were  as  ready  as  their  neighbours 
to  part  with  what  they  had  in  exchange  for  trifles ;  esteeming  our 
old  brass  buttons  above  all  other  articles,  excepting  knives.  There 
was  a  blear-eyed  old  hag  of  the  party,  who  separated  from  her  com- 
panions, and  seated  herself  upon  a  piece  of  drift  wood  at  a  little  dis- 
tance from  the  baidar,  and  continued  there,  muttering  an  unintelli- 
gible language,  and  apparrently  believing  herself  to  be  holdingcom- 
munion  with  tliat  invisible  world  to  which  she  was  fast  approaciiinj. 
Though  in  her  dotage,  her  opinion  was  consulted,  and  on  more  than 
one  occasion  in  a  mysterious  manner.  We  afterwards  witnessed  sev- 
eral instances  of  extremely  old  women  exercising  great  influence 
over  the  younger  part  of  the  community.  On  this  occasion  I  pur- 
chaslied  a  bow  and  quiver  of  arrows  for  a  brooch.  The  man  who 
sold  them  referred  the  bargain  to  the  old  woman  above-mentioned, 
who  apparently  disapproved  of  it,  as  the  brooch  was  returned,  and 
the  bow  and  arrows  re-demanded. 

The  males  of  this  party  were  all  provided  with  lip  ornaments; 
and  we  noticed  a  gradation  in  the  size,  corresponding  to  the  ages  of 
the  party  who  wore  them,  as  well  as  a  distinction  in  the  nature  of 
them.  Two  young  lads  had  the  orifices  in  their  lips  quite  raw: 
they  were  about  the  size  of  a  crow-quill,  and  were  distended  with 
small  cylindrical  pieces  of  ivory,  with  a  round  knob  at  one  end  to 
prevent  their  falling  out.  For  some  time  after  the  operation  has 
been  performed,  it  is  necessary  to  turn  the  cylinders  frequently,  thai 
they  may  not  adhere  to  the  festering  flesh  :  in  time  this  action  be- 
comes as  habitual  with  some  of  them  as  that  of  twirling  the  luusta- 
chois  is  with  a  Muasulman.  In  the  early  stage  it  is  attended  with 
great  pain,  the  blood  sometimes  flowing,  and  1  have  seen  tears  come 
into  the  boys'  eyes  while  doing  it.  Lip  ornaments,  with  the  males, 
appear  to  correspond  with  the  tattooing  of  chins  of  the  females ;  a 
mark  which  is  universally  borne  by  the  women  throughout  both 
the  eastern  and  western  Esquimaux  tribes  :  the  custom  of  wearim; 
the  labrets,  however,  does  not  extend  much  beyond  the  Mackenzie 
River.  The  children  we  saw  torday  had  none  of  these  marks ;  a 
girl,  about  eleven,  had  one  line  only  ;  and  a  young  woman,  about 
twenty-three  years  of  ige,  the  mother  of  the  infants,  had  the  three 
perfect.     One  of  her  children  was  rolling  in  the  bottom  of  the  bai- 


1826.] 


AND  BEERING  3  STRAIT. 


241 


dar,  with  a  large  piece  of  seal-blubber  in  its  mouth,  sucking  it  as  an 
European  child  would  coral.  The  mother  was  rather  pretty,  and 
allowed  her  portrait  to  be  taken.  At  first  she  made  no  objection  to 
being  gazed  at  as  steadfastly  as  was  necessary  for  an  indilFerent  ar- 
tist to  accomplish  his  purpose  ;  but  latterly  she  shrunk  from  the 
scrutiny  with  a  bashfulness  that  would  have  done  credit  to  a  more 
civilized  female  ;  and  on  my  attempting  to  uncover  her  head,  she 
cast  a  look  of  inquiry  at  her  husband,  who  vociferated  "  naga,"  when 
she  very  properly  refused  to  comply.  The  young  men  were  very 
importunate  and  curious,  even  to  annoyance  ;  and  there  is  little 
doubt  that  if  any  persons  in  our  dress  had  fallen  in  with  a  powerful 
party  of  these  savages,  they  would  very  soon  have  been  made  to  ex- 
change their  suit  of  broad  cloth  for  the  more  humble  dress  of  furs. 
Their  honesty  was  not  more  conspicuous  than  their  moderation,  as 
they  appropriated  to  themselves  several  articles  belonging  to  Mr. 
Collie. 

During  three  hours  that  we  were  on  shore,  the  tide  fell  one  foot ; 
it  had  subsided  eighteen  inches  from  its  greatest  height  when  we 
first  landed,  and  when  we  put  off  was  still  ebbing  to  the  S.  S.  W.  at 
the  rate  of  half  a  mile  an  hour.  Four  hours  afterwards,  when  by 
our  observations  on  shore  it  must  have  changed,  it  ran  N.  1-2  E. 
at  the  same  rate,  and  afforded  another  instance  of  the  flood  coming 
from  the  southward. 

A  thick  fog  came  on  after  we  returned  on  board.      The  next 
morning  we  closed  with  the  land  near  Cape  Beaufort,  with  a  view 
of  trying  the  veins  of  coal  in  its  neighbourhood,  as  we  were  very 
short  of  that  article  ;  but  the  wind  veered  round  to  the  N.  N.  W., 
and  by  making  it  a  lee  shore  prevented  the  boats  landing,  and   ren- 
dered it  expedient  for  the  ship,  which  was  very  light,   and  hardly 
capable  of  beating  off,  to  get  an  offing.      The  bay  was  fine,  and 
afforded  an  opportunity  of  verifying  some  of  our  points,  which  we 
had  the  satisfaction  to  find  quite  correct.     The  next  day  the  wind 
veered  to  S.  S.  W.  aiid  then  to  the  westward.      Throughout  the 
23d,  24th,  and  part  of  the  25th,  it  blew  hard,  with  a  short  head  sea, 
thick  weather,  and  latterly  with  snow  showers,  which  obliged  the 
ship  to  keep  at  so  great  a  distance  that  the  land  expedition  would 
have  passed  her  unobserved,  had  they  been  in  progress  along  the 
coast.     With  these  winds  we  kept  off  the  coast.     The  night  of  the 
25th  was  clear  and  cold,  with  .about  four  hours'   darkness,  during 
which  we  beheld  a  brilliant  display  of  the   aurora  borealis,  which 
was  the  first  time  that  phenomenon  had  been  exhibited  to  us  in  this 
part  of  the  world.     It  first  appeared  in  an  arch  extending  from  W. 
by  N.  to  N.  E.  mag.  (by  the  north),  passing  through  benetnasch, 
1^.  J'.  Ursa;  Maj.  and  (i.  Aurigae,  decidedly  dimming  their  lustre. 
The  arch,  shortly  after  it  was  formed,  broke  up;  but  united  again, 

31 


?  -  if» 


r  V'- 


u 


r  ', 


TT^ 


^mmm^^^^f 


Fi«n-«pmppinnp>>  iiiiniii  iiniiBiw" 


\r^ 


242 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[August, 


^:n  ^  '1    ¥ 


'•"., 


■w  '  # 


threw  out  a  few  coruscations,  and  then  entirely  disappeared.  Soon 
after,  a  new  display  began  in  the  direction  of  the  western  foot  of 
the  first  arch,  preceded  by  a  bright  flame,  from  which  emanated 
coruscations  of  a  pale  straw-colour.  An  almost  simultaneous  move- 
ment occurred  at  both  extremities  oi  the  arch,  until  a  complete  seg- 
ment was  fcmed  of  wavering  perpendicular  radii.  As  soon  as  the 
arch  was  complete,  the  light  became  greatly  increased ;  and  the 
prismatic  colours,  which  had  before  been  faint,  now  shone  foith  in 
a  very  brilliant  manner.  The  strongest  colours,  which  were  also 
the  outside  ones,  were  pink  and  green ;  the  centre  colour  was  yel- 
low, and  the  intermediate  ones  on  the  pink  side  purple  and  green, 
all  of  which  were  as  imperceptibly  blended  as  in  the  rainbow.  Tlic 
green  was  the  colour  nearest  the  zenith.  This  magnificent  display 
lasted  a  few  minutes ;  and  the  light  had  nearly  vanished,  when  the 
N.  E.  quarter  sent  forth  a  vigorous  display,  and  nearly  at  the  same 
time  a  corresponding  coruscation  emanated  from  the  opposite  ex- 
tremity. The  western  foot  of  the  arch  then  disengaged  itself  from 
the  horizon,  crooked  to  the  northward,  and  the  whole  retired  to  the 
N.  E.  quarter,  where  a  bright  spot  blazed  for  a  moment,  and  all 
was  darkness.  I  have  been  thus  particular  in  my  description,  because 
the  appearance  was  unusually  brilliant,  and  because  very  few  obser- 
vations on  *his  phenomenon  have  been  made  in  this  part  of  the 
worlH  There  wns  no  nnise  audible  during  any  part  of  our  obser- 
vations, nor  were  the  compasses  perceptibly  aflfected.  The  night 
was  afterwards  squally,  with  cumuh  and  nimbi,  which  deposited 
showers  of  sleet  and  snow  as  they  passed  over  us,  the  wind  being 
rather  fiesh  throughout. 

On  the  26th  the  weather  was  moderate,  and  being  off  Point  Hope, 
on  which  there  were  several  lakes  and  a  great  abundance  of  drift- 
wood, the  boats  were  sent  to  endeavour  to  procure  a  supply  of  fuel 
and  water.  We  had  completed  only  one  turn,  and  buried  a  bottle 
for  Captain  Franklin,  when  the  wind  freshened  from  the  S.  W.  and 
prevented  a  second  landing.  During  the  afternoon  we  turned  to 
windward,  with  the  wind  blowing  fresh  from  the  westward. 

From  the  time  of  our  passing  Beering's  Strait  up  to  the  23d 
instant,  we  enjoyed  an  almost  uninterrupted  series  of  fine  weather; 
during  which  we  had  fortunately  surveyed  the  whole  of  the  coast 
from  Cape  Prince  of  Wales  uS  far  to  the  northward  as  I  deemed  it 
proper  to  go,  consistent  with  the  necessity  of  keeping  the  ship,  at 
all  times,  in  open  water  and  in  safety.  Now,  however,  there  ap- 
peared to  be  a  break  up,"and  a  commencement  of  westerly  winds, 
which  made  the  whole  of  this  coast  a  lee  shore,  and  together  with 
several  hours  of  darkness,  rendered  it  necessary  to  keep  the  ship 
at  a  distance  from  the  land.  In  doing  this  the  chances  were  equal 
that  the  land  expedition,  in  the  event  of  its  success,  would  pass  her. 


1826.] 


AND    BEERING  S    STRAIT. 


243 


I  therefore  determined  to  repair  to  the  rendezvous  in  Kotzebue 
Sound,  and,  as  nothing  further  was  to  be  done  at  sea,  to  await  there 
the  arrival  of  our  boat  and  of  Captain  Franklin's  expedition.  Ac- 
cordingly on  the  27th  we  made  Cape  Krusenstern,  and  on  the  fol- 
lowing evening  anchored  at  Chamisso  Island  nearly  in  our  former 
situation. 

Directly  the  ship  was  secured,  two  boats  were  despatched  to  the 
i<^liuKls  to  examine  the  state  of  the  rivulets,  and  ascertain  whether 
the  cask  of  flour,  that  had  been  buried  for  Captain  Franklin's  use, 
had  been  molested ;  our  suspicion  of  its  safety  having  been  excited 
by  observing  six  baid-^rs  upon  the  beach  opposite  the  anchorage, 
none  of  which  ventured  off  to  the  ship  as  was  usual.  On  the  re- 
turn of  the  boat  from  Chamisso  Island  we  learned  that  there  was 
not  a  drop  of  water  to  be  had,  in  consequence  of  the  streams  at 
which  we  had  formerly  filled  our  casks  being  derived  from  beds  of 
thawing  ice  and  snow  which  were  now  entirely  dissolved. 

By  the  other  boat,  we  found,  as  we  expected,  that  the  cask  of 
flour  had  been  dug  up  and  broken  open,  that  the  hoops  bad  been 
taken  away,  and  that  the  flour  had  been  strewed  about  the  ground, 
partly  in  a  kneaded  state.  Suspicion  immediately  fell  upon  the 
natives  encamped  upon'  the  peninsula,  which  was  strengthened  by 
the  manner  in  which  they  came  off  the  next  morning,  dancing  and 
playing  a  tambourine  in  the  boats,  a  conciliatory  conduct  with  which 
we  had  never  before  been  favoured.  When  they  came  alongside, 
they  were  shown  a  handful  of  flour,  and  were  referred  to  the  island 
upon  which  the  cask  had  been  buried.  Their  guilty  looks  showed 
that  they  perfectly  understood  our  meaning ;  but  they  strongly  pro- 
tested their  innocence,  and  as  a  proof  that  they  could  not  possibly 
have  committed  the  theft,  they  put  their  fingers  to  their  tongues, 
and  spit  into  the  sea  with  disgust,  to  show  us  how  much  they  dis  • 
liked  the  taste  of  the  material,  little  considering  that  the  fact  of 
their  knowing  it  to  be  nauseous  was  a  proof  of  their  having  tasted 
it :  but  no  further  notice  was  taken  of  the  matter,  as  I  wished  as 
much  as  possible  to  conciliate  their  friendship  on  account  of  the  land 
expedition. 

The  baidars  of  these  people  were  better  made  than  any  we  had 
seen,  excepting  those  of  the  St.  Lawrence  islanders,  which  they 
resembled  in  having  a  flap  made  of  walms  skin  attached  to  the  gun- 
wale for  the  purpose  of  keeping  their  bows  and  arrows  dry.  The 
natives  had  a  great  variety  of  articles  for  sale,  all  of  which  they 
readily  parted  with,  except  their  bows,  arrows,  and  spears,  and  these 
they  would  on  no  account  sell.  Several  old  men  were  among  their 
party,  all  of  whom  sat  in  the  stern  of  the  boat,  a  deference  which, 
as  I  have  already  said,  we  everywhere  observed  to  be  paid  to  age 
by  the  younger  part  of  this  tribe.     When  they  had  sold  all  they  in- 


^T 


T 


■n 

I 

r 

■  ii 


i 

if 

m 

ftl 

W 

mm 

a&!'l' 

m 

Ji^ 

B« 

m 


Ur-? 


i'iii:ii#p(i 


244 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[August, 


tended  to  part  with,  and  had  satisfied  their  curiosity,  they  paddled 
on  shore,  well  satisfied,  no  doubt,  at  having  escaped  detection. 

The  next  morning  the  boats  were  sent  to  find  water  and  to  dit; 
wells  upon  Chamisso  Island,  as  we  had  but  nine  days'  supply  oii 
board  at  very  reduced  allowance.  In  the  mean  time  I  paid  a  visit 
to  the  Esquimaux,  who  were  on  their  travels  towards  home  witli 
cargoes  of  dried  salmon,  oil,  blubber,  and  skins,  which  they  had  col- 
lected  in  their  summer  excursion  along  the  coast.  When  they  per- 
ceived our  boat  approaching  the  shore,  they  despatched  a  baidar  to 
invite  us  to  their  encampment ;  and  as  we  rowed  towards  the  place 
together,  observing  with  what  facility  they  passed  our  boats,  they 
applied  their  strength  to  their  paddles,  and,  exulting  on  the  advan- 
tage they  possessed,  left  us  far  behind.  It  was  perfectly  smooth 
and  calm,  or  this  would  not  have  been  the  case,  as  their  boats  have 
no  hold  of  the  water,  and  are  easily  thrown  back  by  a  wave ;  and 
when  the  wind  is  on  the  side,  they  have  the  greatest  difficulty  in 
keeping  them  in  the  right  direction. 

The  shallowness  of  the  water  obliged  our  boat  to  land  a  short  dis- 
tance from  the  village ;  and  the  natives,  who  by  this  time  had  haul- 
ed up  their  baidair,  walked  down  to  meet  us  with  their  arms  drawn 
in  from  their  sleeves,  and  tucked  up  inside  their  frocks.  They  were 
also  very  particular  that  every  one  should  salute  us,  which  they  did 
by  licking  their  hands,  and  drawing  them  first  over  thoii  own  faces 
and  bodies,  and  then  over  ours.  This  vvas  considero<l  the  most 
friendly  manner  in  which  they  could  receive  us,  and  thty  were  of- 
ficiously desirous  of  ingratiating  themselves  with  us;  but  they  would 
on  no  account  suffer  us  to  approacli  iheir  tents ;  and,  when  wc  urg- 
ed it,  seemed  determined  to  resist,  even  with  their  weapons,  which 
were  carefully  laid  out  upon  the  low  piece  of  ground  near  them. 
They  were  resolved,  nevertheless,  that  we  should  partake  of  their 
hospitality,  and  seating  us  upon  a  rising  ground,  placed  before  us 
strips  of  blubber  in  wooden  bowls,  and  whortle-berries  mashed  up 
with  fat  and  oil,  or  some  such  heterogeneous  substance,  for  we  did 
not  taste  it.  Seeing  we  would  not  partake  of  their  fare,  they  com- 
menced a  brisk  traff  with  dried  salmon,  of  which  we  procured  a 
great  quantity.  Geuerally  speaking,  they  were  honest  in  their  deal- 
ings, leaving  their  goods  with  us,  when  they  were  in  doubt  about  a 
bargain,  until  they  had  referred  it  to  a  second  person,  or  more  com- 
monly to  some  of  the  old  woii'>en.  If  they  approved  of  it,  our  offer  was 
accepted  ;  if  not,  they  took  back  their  goods.  On  several  occasions, 
however,  they  tried  to  impose  upon  us  with  fish-skins,  ingeniously 
put  together  to  represent  a  whole  fish,  though  entirely  deprived  of 
their  original  contents  ;  but  this  artifice  succeeded  only  once.  The 
natives,  when  detected  in  other  attempts,  laughed  heartily,  and  trea- 
ted the  matter  as  a  fair  practical  joke.     Their 


cunning 


and  inven- 


1826.] 


AND  BEERINQ  S  STRAIT. 


245 


tion  were  farther  exhibited  in  the  great  pains  which  they  took  to 
make  us  understand,  before  we  parted,  that  the  flour  had  been 
stolen  by  a  party  who  had  absconded  on  seeing  the  ship.  Their 
gestures  clearly  intimated  to  us  that  the  attention  of  this  party  had 
been  attracted  to  the  spot  by  the  newly-turned  earth,  though  we 
had  replaced  it  very  carefully ;  on  which,  it  appears,  they  began  to 
dig,  and,  to  their  great  surprise  and  joy  no  doubt  they  soon  discov- 
ered the  cask.  They  knocked  off  the  hoops  with  a  large  stone, 
and  then  tasted  the  contents,  which  they  intimated  were  very  nau- 
seous. The  thieves  then  packed  up  the  hoops,  and  carried  them 
over  the  hills  to  another  part  of  the  country. 

We  patiently  heard  the  whole  of  this  circumstantial  account,  which 
we  had  afterwards  great  reason  to  believe  was  an  invention  of  their 
own,  and  that  they  bad  some  of  the  flour  secreted  in  their  tents, 
which,  no  doubt,  was  the  reason  of  their  dislike  to  our  approaching 
them. 

In  the  forenoon  one  of  our  seamen  found  a  piece  of  board  upon 
Chamisso  Island,  upon  which  was  written,  in  Russian  characters, 
"Rurick,  July  28th,  1816,"  and  underneath  it  "  Blaganome  erin- 
oy,  1820."  The  former  was,  of  course,  cut  by  Kotzebue  when  he 
visited  the  island  ;  and  the  latter,  I  suppose,  by  Captain  Von  Ba- 
silief  SchismarefF,  his  lieutenant ,  who  paid  this  island  a  second  visit 
in  1820. 

Upon  ihe  low  point  of  this  island  there  was  another  party  of  Es- 
quimaux, who  differed  in  several  particulars  from  those  upon  the 
peninsula.     I  was  about  to  pay  them  a  visit,  but  early  in  the  morn- 
ing our  peninsular  friends  came  off  to  say  they  were  going  away  ; 
and  as  I  wished  to  see  a  little  more  of  them  before  they  left  us,  I 
deferred  going  there  until  the  next  day,  by  which  T  lost  the  oppor- 
tunity of  seeing  those  upon  Chamisso,  as  they  decamped  in  the  eve- 
ning unobserved.     Like  the  party  on  the  peninsula,  they  were  on 
their  return  to  winter  quarters,  with  large  heaps  of  dried  fish,  seals, 
flesh,  oil,  skins,  and  all  the  necessary  appurtenances  to  an  Esqui- 
maux residence.     They  had  four  tents  and  several  baidars,  which 
were  turned  over  upon  their  nets  and  fishing-tackle  for  protection. 
In  one  of  their  tool-chests  was  found  a  part  of  an  elephant's  tooth, 
of  the  same  species  as  those  which  were  afterwards  collected  in 
Escholtz  Bay.  They  had  the  same  aversion  to  our  officers  approach- 
ing their  habitations  as  the  party  before  described  on  the  peninsula, 
and  in  all  probability  it  proceeded  from  the  same  cause,  as  Mr.  Os- 
mer  detected  a  young  girl  eating  some  of  cur  flour  mixed  up  with 
oil  and  berries.     On  seeing  him  she  ran  hastily  into  her  tent,  and 
in  so  doing  spilt  some  of  the  mixture,  which  led  to  the  discovery. 

The  women  of  this  party  differed  from  the  females  we  had  hitherto 
seen,  in  having  the  septum  of  the  nose  pierced,  and  a  large  blue  bead 


hi 


i* 


vrl 


r 


fHm 


i 


'■J    .  lu   t. ■  M u ■  mm- 

1  i* 


1\ 


946 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACinC 


[August, 


strung  upon  a  strip  of  whalebone  passed  through  the  orifice,  the  bead 
hanging  as  low  as  the  opening  of  the  mouth.  One  of  theni,  on  ro 
ceiving  a  large  stocking  needle,  thrust  it  into  the  orifice,  or  as  some 
of  the  seamen  said,  "  spritsail-yarded  her  nose."  A  youth  of  the 
party,  who  had  not  yet  had  his  lips  perforated,  wore  his  hair  in 
bunches  on  each  side  of  the  head,  after  the  fashion  of  the  women 
which  I  notice  as  being  the  only  instance  of  the  kind  we  had  met 
with,  and  which  I  trust  doos  not  indicate  a  nearer  resemblancu  to  a 
class  of  individuals  mentioned  by  Langsdorff  as  existing  in  Oonala- 
shka  under  the  denomination  of  Schopans. 

Red  and  blue  beads,  buttons,  knives,  and  hatchets  were  as  usual 
the  medium  through  which  every  thing  they  would  part  with  was 
purchased.  The  men  were  more  excited  than  usual  by  a  lookini^- 
glass,  which,  after  beholding  their  own  features  in  it,  and  adiniiinr 
alternately  the  reflection  of  their  head  and  lip  ornaments,  they  very 
inconsiderately  "arried  it  to  one  of  their  party  who  was  perfectly 
blind,  and  held  before  his  face.  As  this  was  done  rather  seriously, 
certainly  without  any  appearance  of  derision,  it  is  possible  that  they 
imagined  it  might  produce  some  effect  upon  his  sight. 

On  landing  at  the  encampment  on  the  peninsula,  I  was  received 
in  a  more  friendly  mannoi-    ven  than  the  day  before.     Each  of  the 
natives  selected  a  friend  in -in  among  our  party,  and,  like  the  Gam- 
bier  islanders,  locked  their  arms  in  ours,  and  led  us  to  a  small  piece 
of  rising  ground  near  their  tents,  where  we  sat  down  upon  broad 
planks  and  deer-skins.     A  dried  fish  was  then  presented  to  each  of  j 
us,  and  a  bowl  of  cranberries  mashed  up  with  sorrel  and  rancid  train- 
oil  was  passed  round,  after  the  manner  of  the  Kraikees  on  tlie  Asi- 
atic shore  ;  but,  however  palatable  this  mixture  might  have  been  toj 
our  hosts,  it  was  very  much  the  reverse  to  us,  and  none  of  our  par- 
ty could  be  induced  to  partake  of  it,  except  Mr.  Osmer,  who  did  so 
to  oblige  me  at  the  expense  of  his  appetite  for  the  rest  of  the  day. 
The  Esquimaux  were  surprised  at  our  refusal  of  this  offer,  and  ridi- 
culed our  squeamishness ;  and  by  way  of  convincing  us  what  bad) 
judges  we  were  of  good  cheer,  five  of  them  fell  to  at  the  bowl,  and 
with  their  two  fore  fingers  very  expeditiously  transferred  the  con- 
tents to  their  own  mouths ;  and  cleansing  their  fingers  upon  the  I 
earth,  gave  the  vessel  to  one  of  the  women. 

The  whole  village  dien  assembled,  better  dressed  than  they  had  j 
been  on  our  first  visit,  and  ranged  themselves  in  asemicircle  in  front] 
of  us,  preparatory  to  an  exhibition  of  one  of  their  dances,  wliichl 
merits  a  description,  as  it  was  the  best  of  the  kind  we  saw.  AJ 
double  ring  was  formed  in  front  of  us  by  men  seated  upon  the  grass,! 
and  by  women  and  children  in  the  background,  who  composed  tliel 
orchestra.  The  music  at  the  beginning  was  little  better  than  al 
buzz  of  "  Ungna-aya,  Amna-aya !" — words  which  always  constitute! 


(^V^'lM^ 


■c?- 


,vas  received 
Each  of  the 
ke  the  Gara- 
a  small  piece 
upon  broad 
ed  to  each  of  j 
rancid  train- 
on  the  Asi- 
have  been  to 
le  of  our  par- 
T,  who  did  so  I 
of  the  day. 
IfFer,  and  ridl- 
is  what  bad! 
iie  bowl,  and 
•ed  the  con- 
irs  upon  the 


1926.] 


AND  BEERINO  S  STRAIT. 


247 


the  burthen  of  an  Esquimaux  song.  The  loader  of  tiic  party,  a  strong 
athletic  man,  jumped  into  tiie  ring  and  threw  iiimself  into  various 
altitudes,  which  would  have  better  become  a  pugilist  than  a  per- 
former on  tho  light  fantastic  toe !  As  his  motions  became  violent, 
he  manifested  his  inspiration  by  loud  exclamations  of  Ah!  Ah!  until 
lie  became  exhausted,  and  withdrew,  amidst  shouts  of  approbation 
from  all  present,  and  the  ;  ignal  was  given  for  new  performers.  Five 
voiingor  men  tlun  leaped  into  the  area,  and  again  exhibited  feats  of 
activity,  which,  considering  the  heavy  clothing  that  encumbered 
ilieir  limbs  were  very  fair.  A  simple  little  girl  about  eight  years  of 
ii;e,  dressed  for  the  occasion,  joined  the  jumpers,  but  did  not  imitate 
their  actions.  Her  part  consisted  in  waving  her  arms  and  inclining 
lierbody  from  side  to  side.  The  poor  little  thing  was  so  abashed 
I  that  she  did  not  even  lift  her  head  or  open  her  eyes  during  tho  whole 
of  her  performance,  and  seemed  glad  when  it  was  over,  though  she 
I  was  not  unmindful  of  the  praise  bestowed  upon  her  exertions. 

The  violent  action  of  the  male  performers  required  that  they 

[should  occasionally  take  breath,  during  which  time  the  music  was 

wered ;  but  as  soon  as  the  ring  was  re-furnished  it  again  became 

lloud  and  animated.     A  grown-up  female  now  formed  one  of  the 

Iparty,  and  appeared  to  be  the  prize  of  contention  among  several 

Iroung  men,  who  repeatedly  endeavoured  to  ingratiate  themselves 

lirith  her,  but  she  as  often  rejected  their  offers  and  waved  them  away. 

lit  last  an  old  man,  all  but  naked,  jumped   into  tho  ring,  and  was 

lleginning  some  indecent  gesticulations,  when  his  appcarant  >j   not 

laeeting  with  our  approbation,  he  withdrew,  and  the  performance  hav- 

|i»  been  wrought  to  its  heighest  pitch  of  noise  and  animation  ceased. 

Such  is  the  rude  dance  of  these  people,  in  which,  as  may  be  seen 

lioin  the  above  description,  there  was  neither  elegance  nor  grace  ; 

Int  on  the  contrary  it  was  noisy,  violent,  and  as  barbarous  as  them- 

lelves.     The  dancers  were  dressed  for  the  occasion  in  their  best 

liothes,  which  they  considered  indispensable,  as  they  would  not  sell 

lein  to  us  until  the  performance  was  over.     In  addition  to  their 

psual  costume,  some  had  a  kind  of  tippet  of  ermine  and  sable  skins 

liown over  their  shoulders,  and  others  wore  abandon  their  heads, 

tith  strips  of  skin  suspended  to  it  at  every  two  inches,  to  the  end  of 

Itliich  were  attached  the  nails  of  seals. 

When  the  dance  was  over,  they  presented  us  with  dried  salmon, 

aid  each  person  brought  his  bag  of  goods,  which  produced  a  brisk 

krtcr,  with  great  fairness  on  all  sides,  and  with  a  more  than  ordin- 

:  sense  of  propriety  on  theirs,  in  never  raising  or  lowering  their 

Inces ;  and  by  their  testifying  their  disapprobation  of  it  by  a  groan, 

flien  it  was  attempted  by  one  of  our  party.     But  though  so  strict 

ithis  particular,  they  were  not  exempt  from  that  failing  so  unac- 

itably  innate  in  all  uncivilized  people,  which  they  endeavoured 


"i»»-^ 


248 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACiriC 


[August. 


m 


)i,    k    'i      '       I 


li^ 


)     y^i 


./ 

4 

L^ 

:*.. ..■■**& 

to  gratify  in  various  ways,  by  engaging  our  attention  at  a  moinciu 
when  some  of  our  trinkets  were  exposed  to  them  for  the  purpose  of 
selection.  Suspecting  their  designs,  however,  we  generally  detect- 
ed their  thefts,  and  immediately  received  back  our  goods,  with  a 
hearty  laugh  in  addition.  They  understood  making  a  good  barj'ain 
(pjite  as  well  as  ourselves,  and  were  very  wary  how  they  received 
our  knives  and  hatchets,  putting  their  metal  to  the  test  by  hackiii" 
at  them  with  their  own.  If  they  stood  the  blow,  they  wereaccej)t- 
ed;  but  if,  on  the  contrary,  they  were  notched,  they  were  refused. 
A  singular  way  of  deciding  a  bargain  was  resorted  to  by  one  oftliojr 
party,  almost  equivalent  to  that  of  tossing  up  a  coin.  We  had  olFci- 
ed  an  adze  for  a  bundle  of  skins  ;  but  the  owner,  who  at  first  seem- 
ed satisfied  with  the  bargain,  upon  reflection  became  doubtful  wiietli- 
er  he  would  not  be  the  looser  by  it ;  and  to  decide  the  doubtful 
point  he  caught  a  small  beetle,  and  set  it  at  liberty  upon  the  palm 
of  his  hand,  anxiously  watching  which  direction  the  insect  should 
take.  Finding  it  run  towards  him,  he  concluded  the  bargain  to  be 
disadvantageous  to  him,  and  took  back  his  goods. 

On  this  day  they  admitted  us  to  their  habitations,  and  all  restric- 
tions were  removed,  except  that  upon  writing  in  our  remark  books, 
to  which  they  had  such  an  objection,  that  they  refused  us  any  infor- 
mation while  they  were  open,  and  with  great  good-nature  closed 
them,  or  if  we  persisted,  they  dodged  their  heads  and  made  off. 

Our  new  acquaintances,  amouiiliiig  to  twenty-five  in  number,  had 
five  tents,  constructed  with  skins  of  sea-animals,  strained  upon  poles ; 
and  for  floors  they  had  some  broad  planks  two  feet  in  the  clear.    1 
was  anxious  to  learn  where  they  obtained  these,  knowing  that  they  I 
had  themselves  no  means  of  reducing  a  tree  to  the  form  of  a  plank, 
but  I  could  get  no  information  on  this  point :  in  all  probability  they 
had  been  purchased  from  the  Tschutschi,  or  the  Russians.     Each  I 
tent  had  its  baidar,  and  there  were  two  to  spare,  which  were  turned  j 
upside  down,  and  afforded  a  convenient  house  for  several  dogs,  re- 
sembling those  of  Baffin's  Bay,  which  were  strapped  to  logs  of  wood] 
to   prevent  their  straying  away.     In  front  of  these  baidars  therej 
were  heaps  of  skins  filled  with  oil  and  blubber,  &c.,  and  near  tliemj 
some  very  strong  nets  full  of  dried  salmon,  suspended  to  framesl 
made  of  drift  wood  :  these  frames  also  contained,  upon  strefchers,! 
the  intestines  of  whales,  which  are  used  for  a  variety  of  purposes,! 
particularly  for  the  kamlaikas,  a  sort  of  shirt  which  is  put  over  their 
skin  dresses  in  wet  weather. 

More  provident  than  the  inhabitants  of  Melville  Peninsula,  these! 
people  had  collected  an  immense  store  of  provision,if  intended  only  fon 
the  number  of  persons  we  saw.  Besides  a  great  many  skins  ofoilJ 
blubber,  and  blood,  they  had  about  three  thousand  pounds  ofdriea 
fish. 


[August, 

.  momcm 
Hirpose  of 
,ly  ilctect- 
tls,  with  a 
0(1  bargain 
f  received 
by  liackins; 
ere  accept- 
;re  rol'used. 
one  nfihoir 
'elmdotrov- 
,t  first  seem- 
blful  wlietli- 
,he  doubtful 
on  the  palm 
isect  should 
jargain  to  be 

id  all  restric- 

3mark  hooks, 

1  us  any  infor- 

lature  closed 

made  off. 

\  number,  had 

id  upon  poles; 

the  clear.    I 

ing  that  they 

[m  of  a  plank, 

jobability  they  I 

ssians.    Each 

[h  were  turned] 

jeral  do^s,re- 

Lo  logs  of  wood  I 

baidars  therel 

ind  near  theral 

ided  to  framesj 

[on  stretchers,] 

of  purposes, 

put  over  theirl 

Ininsula,  lliesej 
lendedonlyfoif 
ly  skins  of  oilj 
Lnds  ofdiieJ 


1826.] 


AND    BCERINfl's    STItAIT. 


•249 


On  the  first  visit  to  tliis  party,  they  constructod  a  chart  of  the 
c•oa:^l  upon  the  sand,  of  whicli  1  took  very  little  notice  at  the  time. 
Xo-(lay,  however,  they  renewed  their  labour,  and  |)erfonned   their 
work  upon  the  sandy  heacli  in  a  very  ingenious  and  intelligible  man- 
ner.    The  coast  line  was  first  marked  out  with  a  stick,  and  the  dis- 
tances regulated  by  the  days'  journeys.     The   hills   and  ranges  of 
mountains  were  next  shown  by  elevations  of  sand  or  stone,  and  the 
islands  represented  by  heaps  of  pebbles,  their  proportions  being  du- 
ly attended  to.     As  the  work  proceeded,  some  of  the  bystanders 
(x;casionully  suggested  alterations,  and  I  removed  one  of  the  Dioniede 
Islands  which  was  misplaced  :  this  was  at  first  objected  to  by  the 
hydro^raplier  ;  but  one  of  the  party  recollecting  that  the  islands 
were  seen  in  one  from  Cape  Prince  of  Wales,  confirmed  its  new  po- 
sition and  made  the  mistake  quite  evident  to  the  others,  who  seem- 
ed much  surprised  that  we  should  have  any  knowledge  of  such 
things.     When  the  mountains  and  the  islands  were  erected,  the  vil- 
lages and  fishing  stations  were  marked  by  a  number  of  sticks  placed 
upright,  in  imitation  of  those  which  are  put  upon  the  coast  wherev- 
er diese  people  fix  their  abode.     In  time,  we  had  a  complete  topo- 
yaphical  plan  of  the  coast  from  Point  Darby  to  Cape  Krusenstern. 
Ill  this  extent  of  coast  line  they  exhibited  a  harbour  and  a  large  riv- 
er situated  to  the  southward  of  Cape  Prince  of  Wales,  of  neither  of 
nliich  we  had  any  previous  knowledge.     The  harbour  communicat- 
ed with  an  inner  basin,  named  Imaurook,  which  was  very  spacious, 
and  where  the  water  was  fresh.     The  entrance  to  the  outer  one  was 
fo  narrow,  that  tw  o  baidars  could  not  paddle  abreast  of  each  other. 
This  they  explained  by  means  of  two  pieces  of  wood,  placed  to- 
other, and  motioning  with  their  hands  that  they  were  paddlirg. 
They  then  drew  them  along  till  they  came  to  the  channel,  when 
iliey  were  obliged  to  follow  one  another,  and,  when  through,  they 
took  up  their  position,  as  before.     Tbp  rlvor  was  between  this  har- 
Irour  and  thn  cape,  and  by  their  description  it  wound  among  lofty 
mountains,  and  between  high  rocky  cliffs,  and  extended  further  than 
any  of  the  party  had  been  able  to  trace  in  their  baidars.     Its  name 
was  Youp-nut,  and  its  course  must  lie  between  the  ranges  of  moun- 
tains, at  the  back  of  Cape  Prince  of  Wales.     At  this  last  mention- 
ed cape,  they  placed  a  village,  called  Iden-noo  ;  and  a  little  way  in- 
land another,  named  Kink-a-ghee,  which  was  their  own  wii     r  res- 
idence.    Beyond  Imau-rook  there  was  a  bay,  of  which  we  nave  no 
knowledge,  named  I-art-so-rook.     A  point  ^beyond  this,  which  I 
took  to  be  the  entrance  to  Norton  Sound,  was  the  extent  of  their  ge- 
ographical knowledge  in  that  direction. 

To  the  Diomede  Islands  they  gave  the  names  of  Noo-nar-boak  ; 
Ignarlook,  and  Oo-ghe-eyak ;  King's  Island,  Oo-ghe-a-book  ;  and 
Sledge  Island,  Ayak.     It  is  singular  that  this  island,  which  was 

32 


< 


-'  1 


Mfi 


15 

% 


250 


VOYAGE  TO  THE   PACIFIC 


[August, 


■U^f'i 


named  Sledge  Island  by  captain  Cook  from  the  circumstance  of  one 
of  these  implement;  being  found  upon  it,  should  be  called  by  a  wore' 
signifying  the  same  thing  in  the  Esquimaux  language.  Fur  F2ast 
Cape  they  had  no  name,  and  they  had  no  knovvkdge  of  any  other 
part  of  the  Asiatic  co-^cst.  Neither  Schii mareft'  Bay  noi  the  inlet 
in  the  Bay  of  Good  Hoj)e  was  delineated  by  them,  though  they  were 
not  ignorant  of  the  former  when  it  Avas  pointed  out  to  them.  It  has 
been  supposed  that  these  two  inlets  communicate,  and  that  the  Es- 
quimaux, who  intimated  to  Kotzebuc  that  a  boat  could  procecii  nine 
days  up  the  latter  and  would  then  find  the  sea,  alluded  to  this  junc- 
tion ;  but  our  rude  hydrographers  knew  of  no  such  communication; 
whichi  thinlvtlie/  certainly  would,  had  it  existed,  ashy  pursuing  lliat 
coursethey  would  ha\e  avoided  a  passage  by  sea  or  round  Cape  Es- 
penburg,  which  in  deep-laden  boats  is  attended  with  risk,  from  tlie 
chance  of  their  not  being  able  to  land  upon  the  coast.  They  would, 
at  all  events,  have  preferred  an  inland  navigation  had  it  nor  bec" 
very  circuitous. 

We  passed  the  greater  part  of  the  day  with  these  intelligent  '^"o- 
ple,  who  amused  u'^^  the  whole  time  in  some  way  or  othe".  Tlie 
chief,  previous  to  en)barkation  examined  every  part  of  our  boat,  and 
was  highly  pleased  with  the  workmanship,  but  he  seemed  to  regret 
that  so  inucii  iron  had  been  expended  where  thongs  would  have 
served  as  well.  He  was  more  astonished  at  the  weight  of  a  sound- 
ing lead  than  at  any  tlnng  in  the  boat,  never  having  felt  any  metal 
so  heavy  before;  iron  pyrites  being  the  heaviest  mineral  among  this 
tribe. 

When  we  were  about  to  embark,  all  Jie  village  assembled  and 
took  leave  ofus  in  the  usual  manner  of  the  Esquimaux  tribes  :  and 
as  it  was  probab'e  we  should  never  meet  again,  the  parting,  much 
to  our  annoyance,  was  very  afiectionate.  A  middle-aged  man, 
who  had  taken  tliu  l^ad  throughout,  and  who  was  prohahly 
th^ir  neakoa  (or  head-man)  recommended  ua  to  depart  from 
tbt  ^•  regions ;  but  I  signified  my  intention  of  waiting  some  time 
longer,  and  sleeping  at  least  twenty  nights  where  we  were ;  on 
which  he  shivered,  and  drew  his  arms  in  from  his  sleeves  to 
apprise  us  of  the  approaching  cold.  I  thanked  him  for  his  ad- 
vice, and  making  them  each  a  parting  present  we  took  our  leave. 
The  next  morning  they  embarked  every  thing,  and  paddled  over  to 
Escholtz  Bay.  After  they  were  gone,  we  found  some  of  our  flour 
where  the  tents  had  oiood,  and  a  quantity  of  it  secreted  in  a  bush 
near  the  place  ;  so  that  their  cautious  behaviour  with  regard  to  our 
approacliinging  their  tents  the  first  day  was  no  doubt  occasioned  by 
fear  of  this  discovery  ;  and  they  afterwards  secreted  their  plunder 
in  a  maimer  probably  not  likely  to  meet  detection. 

Among  this  party  there  was  a  man  so  crippled  that  he  went  on 
all  fours;  how  it  occurred  we  could  not  learn,  but  it  was  j  robably 


■■■ 


1826.] 


AND  BEERING  b  STRAIT. 


251 


in  some  hunting  excursion,  as  several  of  his  companions  had  deep 
scars,  which  they  intimated  had  heen  inflicted  by  walrusses,  which 
in  tlie  following  year  we  found  in  great  numhers  off  the  coast.  In 
this  party  we  detected  a  difference  of  dialect  from  what  we  had 
heard  in  general,  which  made  their  objection  to  our  writing  in  our 
hooks  the  more  provoking,  as  it  prevented  us  recording  any  of  the 
variations,  except  in  regard  to  the  negative  particle  mo,  which  with 
other  parties  was  naga,  and  with  these  aim-ga.  The  females  were 
provided  with  broad  iron  bracelets,  which  we  had  not  seen  before ; 
and  by  tlieir  having  four  or  five  of  them  upon  uuch  vvrist,  it  appear- 
ed tliat  this  metal,  so  precious  with  the  tribes  to  the  northward,  was 
witii  them  less  rare  ;  ncvertheloss  it  is  very  probable  that  they  in- 
tended to  appropriate  to  this  purpf^sc  the  iron  hoops  they  had  stol- 
en from  us. 

I  have  said  nothing  of  tlie  dress  or  features  of  these  people,  as, 
with  the  exception  of  two  of  them,  they  so  nearly  resemblo  those 
aheady  described  as  to  render  it  unnecessary.  These  two  persons, 
in  the  tattooing  of  the  face,  and  in  features,  which  more  nearly  re- 
sembled those  of  the  Tschutschi,  spomed  to  bu  allied  to  the  tribes 
on  the  Asiatic  coast,  with  whom  they  no  doubt  have  an  occa- 
sional intercourse. 

On  the  first  of  September  our  sportsmen  succeeded  in  bagging 
sf'eral  braces  r  f  ptarmigan  and  wild  ducks  ;  but  game  was  not  so 
plentiful  as  might  have  been  expected  at  this  season  of  the  year,  in 
a  country  so  abundantly  provided  with  berries  and  so  scantily  inhab- 
ited. It  was  a  pleasure  to  find  that  we  could  now  pursue  this  and 
other  occupations  free  from  the  annoyance  of  inoskitos  ;  a  nuisance 
which,  whatever  it  may  appear  at  first,  is  in  reality  n^t  trifling.  Dr. 
Richardson  fixes  the  departure  of  these  insects  from  Fort  Franklin 
on  the  11th  of  September:  here,  however,  it  takes  place  at  least  a 
fortnight  earlier. 

On  ilie  5th  I  visited  the  northern  side  ofEscholtz  Bay,  and  found 
the  country  almost  impassible  from  swamp,  notwithstanding  tlie  sea- 
son was  so  far  advanced.  It  seemed  as  if  the  peaty  nature  of 
the  covering  obstructed  the  drainage  of  the  water,  which  the 
power  of  the  sun  liad  let  loose  during  the  summer,  and  that 
tb'j  frozen  state  of  the  ground  beneath  prevented  '^s  escape  in 
that  direction.  The  power  of  the  sun's  rays  upon  the  surface  was 
still  great,  and  large  stones  and  fragments  of  rock  that  had  been  split 
I)}-  the  frost  were  momentarily  relinquisliing  their  hold  and  falling 
down  upon  the  beach.  A  thermometer  exposed  upon  a  piece  of 
Mark  cloth  rose  to  112°,  and  in  the  shade  stood  at  62".  On  the 
side  of  the  hill  that  sloped  to  the  southward  tiie  willow  and  the  birch 
grew  to  tiie  height  of  eighteen  feet,  and  formed  so  dense  a  wood 
that  we  could  not  penetrate  it.     The  trees  bordering  upon  the  beach 


Pl 


y 


'[,)! 


•t 


\¥ll' 


.« 


25> 


VOYAC-E  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Sein. 


Y 


'       i 


'i  -  'I. 


.V   'i'  ' 


were  quite  dead,  apparently  in  rxunsequence  of  their  bark  liavinc; 
been  rubbed  through  by  llie  ice,  w  ui'nch  liad  been  forced  about  nine 
i'bet  above  liigh-water  mark,  and  *;ir^'  ieft  there  asleep  ridge  of  sand 
and  shing^^  Tlie  berries  uere  ai  liw  time  in  great  perfection  and 
abundance,  and  proved  a  most  agreeabte  addition  to  the  salt  d'et  of 
the  seamen,  who  were  occa»ir>nally  permitted  U)  land  and  tollect 
them. 

The  cljgs  o«  thi'^  side  of  C: ,:  _'  luu  .  .a  were  composed  of  a 
green-coloured  ;?vica  slate,  in  whiich  f(fl»e  mesi  pref'-ominated,  and 
rontained  garneliK,  ""ins  of  fclspar,  encT<<>Hing  fhrystal*  of  schorl, and 
hafd  its  fissures  lllhi*f  with  quartz  ;  but  I  simil  avoid  ■^yingany  thing 
on  geological  subjedi.'  iiere. 

On  the  6th  our  cAvfMtty  was  excited  by  th^e  af*9<?ai«ance  of  two 
.siuiall  boats  under  sail.  >'*''')ich,  when  first  seen  throi**sli  a  light  fo;, 
were  so  different  from  lb'  sails  of  llie  Esquimaux,  tiiat  our  inui^in- 
ation,  which  had  latterly  converted  every  unusual  appearance  in  ihu 
liorizon  into  the  boats  of  Captain  Franklin,  jeally  led  us  io  con- 
clude he  had  at  length  arrived  ;  but  as  they  rounded  tin-  point,  we 
clearly  distinguished  tbcm  to  bo  two  native  baidars.  We  watched 
their  landing,  and  were  astonished  at  the  rapidity  with  which  they 
pitched  their  tcnts,~  settled  themselves,  and  transferred  to  their  new 
habitation  the  contents  of  the  baidars,  which  they  drew  out  of  the 
sea  and  turned  bottom  upwards.  On  visiting  their  abode  an  hour 
after  they  landed,  every  thing  was  in  as  complete  order  as  if  tliey 
had  been  established  there  a  month,  and  scarcely  any  thing  was 
wanting  to  render  their  situation  comfortable.  No  better  idea  could 
have  been  conveyed  to  us  of  the  truly  independent  manner  in  which 
this  tribe  wander  about  from  place  to  place,  transporting  their  hous- 
es, and  every  thing  necessary  to  their  comfort,  than  that  which  was 
afforded  on  this  occasion.  Nor  were  we  less  struck  with  the  num- 
ber of  articles  which  their  ingenuity  finds  the  means  of  dispensing  in 
their  boats,  and  which,  had  we  not  seen  them  disembarked,  we 
should  liave  doubted  the  possibility  of  their  having  been  crannned 
into  them.  From  two  of  these  they  landed  fourteen  persons,  eisrht 
tent  poles,  forty  deer  skins,  two  kyacks,  many  hundred  weight  of 
fish,  numerous  skins  of  oil,  earthen  jars  for  cooking,  two  liviii;; 
foxes,  ten  large  dogs,  bundles  of  lances,  harpoons,  bows  and  arrows, 
a  quantity  of  whalebone,  skins  full  of  clothing,  some  immense  nets, 
made  of  hide,  for  taking  small  whales  and  ]»orpoises,  eight  broad 
blanks,  masts,  sails,  paddles,  &ic.,  besides  sea-horse  hides  and  teeth, 
and  a  variety  of  nameless  articles  always  to  be  found  among  the 
Esquimaux. 

They  received  us  in  the  most  friendly  and  open  manner,  and  their 
conduct  throughout  was  so  difleicnl  from  that  of  their  predecessors, 
that  had  we  had  no  proof  of  the  latter  bein-  guilty  of  the  thefl  uu 


»i#* 


«!?> 


1826.] 


AND  BEERINg's  STRAIT. 


253 


our  flour,  this  difference  of  conduct  would  have  a%rdod  a  strong 
presumption  against  tliem.  Tlie  party  consisted  ui'  two  faniihes, 
eacii  of  which  had  its  distinct  property,  tents,  baidar,  &ic.  They 
were  in  feature  and  language  nearly  connected  with  the  King-a-ghcR 
party,  and  from  what  they  told  us,  resided  near  them  ;  but  to  judge 
from  their  dressc  and  establishment  they  were  of  much  lower  con- 
dition. However,  the  women  had  the  same  kind  of  beads  in  their 
cars,  and  sewn  upon  their  dresses,  and  had  evidently  been  to  the 
same  market.  We  remarked,  however,  in  two  of  the  young  ladies 
a  custom  which,  when  first  discovered,  created  considerable  laugh- 
ter. When  they  moved,  several  bells  were  set  ringing,  and,  on  ex- 
amining their  perso  is,  we  discovered  that  they  had  each  three  or 
four  of  these  instruments  urder  their  clothes,  suspended  to  their 
waists,  hips,  and  one  even  lower  down,  which  was  about  the  size  of 
a  dustman's  bell,  but  without  a  clapper.  Whether  they  had  dis- 
posed of  them  in  this  mannci-  as  charms,  or  through  fear,  it  was  im- 
possible to  say  ;  but  by  their  polished  surface,  and  the  manner  in 
which  they  were  susj)emlud,  thoy  appeared  to  have  long  occupied 
these  places.  They  were  certainly  not  hung  there  for  convenience, 
as  the  large  one,  in  particular,  must  have  materially  incommoded  the 
ladies  in  their  walking.  One  of  our  party  suggested  that  this  largo 
bell  might,  perhaps,  be  appropriated  to  the  j)erformance  of  a  cere- 
iiiony  mentioned  by  MuUer,  in  his  •'  Voyages  from  Asia  to  Amer- 
ica."  ik,c.  p.  28.,  where  he  states  that  the  bond  of  friendship  or  en- 
mity depends  upon  a  guest  rinsing  his  mouth  with  the  contents  of 
die  cup,  which  formed  an  indispensable  part  of  a  very  singular  cus- 
tom among  the  Tschutschi,  the  people  of  Cashemir,  and  some  oilier 
countries.* 

Among  other  things,  this  party  had  small  bags  of  resin,  which 
p'lpeared  to  be  the  natural  exudation  of  the  pine.  From  their  con- 
i^iaiuly  chewing  it,  it  did  not  seem  diflicult  to  be  had  ;  and  as  no  trees 
of  tliis  nature,  that  we  were  acquainted  with,  grew  upon  the  coast, 
we  were  anxious  to  learn  whence  they  had  procured  it,  but  we  coidd 
not  make  our  acquaintances  understand  our  wishes. 

An  old  lady,  who  was  the  mother  of  the  two  girls  with  the  bells, 
invited  me  into  her  tent,  where  I  found  her  daughters  seated  amidst 
11  variety  of  pots  and  pans,  containing  the  most  unsavoury  messes, 
highly  repugnant  to  both  the  sight  and  smell  of  a  European,  though 
not  at  all  so  to  the  Esquimaux.  These  people  are  in  the  habit  of 
collecting  certain  fluids  for  the  purposes  of  taiming  ;  and  that,  judg- 
iii;  from  what  took  plact;  in  the  tent,  in  the  most  open  manner,  in 
ilie  presence  of  all  the  family. 

Tlie  old  matron  was  extremely  good-natnred,  lively,  and  loqua- 


W        *' 


V, 


\i 


i 


*  M.  Paulus  vciictuo,  WiUeii,  and  Trigaut. 


\ 


t 


lil 


if 


254 


VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[Sej>u 


cioiis ;  and  took  great  pleasure  in  telling  us  the  name  of  every 
thing,  by  which  she  proved  more  useful  than  any  of  our  former  visit- 
ers ;  and  had  she  but  allowed  us  time  to  write  down  one  word  be- 
fore she  furnished  another,  we  should  have  greatly  extended  our 
vocabularies  ;  but  it  appeared  to  her,  no  doubt,  that  we  could  write 
as  fast  as  slie  could  dictate,  and  that  the  greater  number  of  words 
she  supplied,  the  more  thankful  we  should  be.  So  far  from  tliis 
party  having  any  objection  to  our  books,  to  which  the  former  one 
had  manifested  the  greatest  repuguanoe,  they  took  pleasure  in  see- 
ing them,  and  were  very  attentive  to  the  manner  in  which  every 
thini^  was  committed  to  paper. 

Tl.e  daughters  were  fat  good-looking  girls;  the  eldest,  about 
thirteen  years  of  age,  was  marked  upon  the  chin  with  a  single  blue 
line  ;  but  the  other,  about  ten,  was  without  any  tattooing.  I  made 
a  sketch  of  the  eldest  girl,  very  much  to  the  satisfaction  of  the 
mother,  who  was  so  interested  in  having  her  daughter's  picture,  and 
so  impatient  to  see  it  finished,  that  she  snatched  away  the  paper  sev- 
eral times  to  observe  the  progreso  I  was  making.  The  father  entered 
the  tent  while  this  was  going  forward,  and  observing  what  I  was 
about,  called  to  his  son  to  bring  him  a  piece  of  board  that  was  lying 
ouisnie  the  tent,  and  to  scrape  it  clean,  which  indeed  was  very  ne- 
cessary. Having  procured  a  piece  of  plumbago  from  his  wife,  lie 
seated  himself  upon  a  heap  of  skins,  threw  his  legs  across,  and  very 
good-humou redly  commenced  a  portrait  of  me,  aping  my  manner 
and  tracing  every  feature  with  the  most  affected  care,  whimsically 
applying  his  finger  to  the  point  of  his  pencil  instead  of  a  penknife, 
to  the  great  diversion  of  his  wife  and  daughters.  By  the  time  I  had 
finished  my  sketch,  he  had  executed  his,  but  with  the  omission  of 
the  hat,  which,  as  he  never  wore  one  himself,  he  had  entirely  for- 
gotten ;  and  he  was  extremely  puzzled  to  know  how  to  place  it  up- 
on the  head  he  had  drawn. 

On  meeting  with  the  Esquim.aux,  after  the  first  salutation  is  over 
an  exchange  of  goods  invariably  ensues,  if  the  party  have  any  thing 
to  sell,  which  is  almost  always  the  case  ;  and  we  were  no  sooner 
seated  in  the  tent  than  the  old  lady  produced  several  bags,  from 
which  she  drev  forth  various  skins^  ornamental  parts  of  the  dress  of 
her  tribe,  and  small  ivoiy  dolls,  allowing  us  to  purchase  whatever 
we  liked.  Our  articles  of  barter  were  necklaces  of  blue  beads, 
brooches,  and  cutlery,  which  no  sooner  came  into  the  possession  of 
our  hostess  than  they  were  transferred  to  a  stone  vessel  half  filled 
with  train-oil,  where  they  underwent  an  Esquimaux  purification. 

We  found  amongst  this  party  a  small  Russian  roin  of  the  Empress 
Catlierine,  and  the  head  of  a  halberd,  which  had  been  converted 
into  a  knife  :  both  of  which  weie  tvidt  nee  of  the  communication 
that  must  exist  between  their  tribe  and  those  of  the  Asiatic  coast? 
opposite. 


J-    -Jtoi 


mmm 


PH 


■awp« 


1826.] 


AND  BEERINO  S  STRAIT. 


255 


We  returned  on  board  with  a  boat  full  of  dried  salmon,  and  the 
D.xt  day  the  party  visited  the  ship.  Notwithstanding  the  friend- 
ly treatment  they  had  experienc3d  the  day  before,  it  required  much 
persuasion  to  induce  them  to  come  upon  deck ;  and  even  when 
some  of  them  were  prevailed  upoi  to  do  so,  they  took  the  precaution 
of  leaving  with  their  comrades  in  the  boat  whatever  valuable  articles 
they  had  about  their  persons.  They  were  shown  every  thing  in  the 
ship  most  likely  to  interest  them,  but  very  few  objects  enga|^ed  them 
long,  and  they  passed  by  some  that  were  of  the  greatest  interest,  to 
bestow  their  attention  upon  others  which  to  us  were  of  none,  thus 
showing  the  necessity  of  fully  understanding  the  nature  of  any  thing 
before  the  mind  can  properly  appreciate  its  value.  The  sail-maker 
sewing  a  canvass  bag,  and  the  chain  cable,  were  two  of  the  objects 
which  most  engaged  their  attention ;  the  former  from  its  being  an 
occupation  they  had  themselves  often  been  engaged  in ;  and  the 
latter  as  exhibiting  to  them  the  result  of  prodigious  labour,  as  they 
would  naturally  conclude  that  our  chains — though  so  much  larger 
and  of  so  much  harder  a  material  than  their  own — were  made  in 
the  same  manner.  The  industry  and  ingenuity  of  the  Esquimaux 
are,  however,  displayed  in  nothing  more  than  in  the  fabrication  of 
chains,  two  or  three  of  which  we  met  with  cut  out  of  a  solid  piece 
of  ivory.  On  showing  these  people  the  plates  of  natural  history  in 
Ref  j's  Cyclopaedia,  they  were  far  more  intelligent  than  might  have 
been  expected  from  the  difficulty  that  naturally  occurs  to  uncivilized 
people  in  divesting  their  minds  of  the  comparative  size  of  the  living 
animal  and  its  picture.  But  the  Esquimaux  are  very  superior  in 
this  respect  to  the  South  Sea  Islanders,  and  immediately  recognized 
every  animal  they  were  acquainted  with  that  happened  to  be  in  the 
lx)ok,  and  supphed  me  with  th-^  following  list  of  them  : — 


English  Names. 

Squirrel 

Fez 
!  Musk  rat 

Rein-deer 

Musk  ox 

White  bear 

Walrus 
I  Seal 

Otter 

j  Porcupine 
I  Mouse 

Beaver 

Hare 

Goat 


Esquimaux  Names. 

Tsry-kereck. 

Kiock-toot. 

Paoona. 

Tootoot. 

Mign-ugne. 

Tsu-narlc. 

Ei-bwo-ak. 

Kasi-goo-ak. 

Tc-ghe-ak-book, 

Igla-koo-sok. 

Koobla-ook. 

Ka-boo-ek. 

Oo-good-Ugh. 

Ip-na-uck. 


Eng'liaii  Names. 

Porpoise 

Dog 

Owl 

Falcon 

Grouse 

Snipe 

Vulture 

Swan 

Duck 

Puffin 

Plover 

Pelican 

Salmon 

Flounder 


Esquimaux  Names. 

Agh-bee-zeeak. 

Koo-neak. 

Igna-zee-wyuck. 

IQe-goo-ut. 

A-hag-ghi-uck. 

Nuck-too-o-Iit. 

KecgU-aght. 

Tadi-dracht, 

Evj-uck. 

Kooli-nockt. 

Tud-glict. 

Pe  e  bli-ark-took. 

hh-allook. 

Ek-anee-luk. 


i>-"\ 


:  vi 


\   : 


t/ 


:  I 


4 


'M 


256 


VOYAGE   TO   THE   PACIFIC 


[Sqn. 


Slioep  Olc-shull:  Guard  fish 

Bull  (inusk  't)Moong-maJc.  Crab 

White  horse  Izoo-kar-ucJc.  Shrimp 

Narwhal  Tse-doo-ak.  Lobster 

Whale  Ah-oiv-look.  Butterfly 


Iz-nec-n-ook. 

Edloo-azrc\j-%(k. 

Noivd-lennok. 

Poo-coe-o-tuk. 

Tar-dle-oot-zuk. 


^imong  which  there  are  three  animals — the  goat,  the  sheep,  and  the 
horse — hitherto  unknown  upon  this  coast :  probably  the  sheep  may 
ref'-r  to  the  argali,  which  has  been  seen  near  Cook's  River.  Iji- 
the  time  I  had  collected  these  names,  our  visiters  had  become  im- 
patient to  join  their  comrades,  who  in  like  manner,  finding  tlieni  a 
long  time  absent,  had  become  equally  anxious  on  their  account,  and 
had  quieted  the  boat  in  search  of  them,  and  both  parties  met  upon 
deck,  to  their  mutual  satisfaction.  Previous  to  their  going  away 
we  made  them  several  useful  presents  of  axes,  knives,  combs,  i!cc. 
for  which  they  seemed  thankful,  and  offered  in  return  a  "ew  skins, 
pointing  at  the  same  time  to  the  south  side  of  the  sound,  where  tlicii' 
habitations  probably  were,  intimating  that  if  we  went  there  tlicy 
would  give  us  more.  They  then  pushed  off  their  baidars,  rested 
on  their  paddles  for  a  minute,  and  made  off  as  fast  as  they  could,  to 
give  us  an  idea  of  the  swiftness  of  their  boat,  which  seems  to  be  a 
favourite  practice. 

Next  day  we  revisited  their  abode,  and  found  that  the  price  of 
every  article  had  been  raised  several  hundred  per  cent.,  and  tliat 
nothing  of  reasonable  value  would  induce  them  to  part  with  either 
bows  or  arrows  ;  fio  that  our  generosity  of  the  preceding  day  had  not 
left  any  durable  impression. 

Every  visit  to  these  parties  furnished  some  new  insight  into  tlieir 
manners,  though  it  was  but  trifling  :  en  this  occasion  we  witnessed 
a  smoking  party  in  which  the  women  and  children  partook  equally 
with  the  men.  The  pipe  used  on  this  occasion  was  small,  and  would 
contain  no  more  tobacco  than  could  be  consumed  at  a  wliifF.  To 
these  instruments  there  were  attached  a  pricker  and  a  strip  ofdo^'s 
skin,  from  the  last  of  which  they  tore  off  a  few  hairs,  and  placed 
them  at  the  bottom  of  the  bowl  of  the  \)i\ie  to  prevent  the  tobacoo, 
which  was  chopped  up  very  fine,  being  drawn  into  the  mouth  w  th 
smoke.  The  tobacco  which  they  used  had  pieces  of  wood  rut  up 
fine  with  it,  a  custom  which  is  no  doubt  derived  from  the  Tscliutsciii, 
who  use  the  bark  of  the  birch-tree  in  this  manner,  and  imagine  it 
improves  the  quality  of  the  herb.*  The  pipe  being  charged  with 
about  a  pinch  of  this  material,  the  senior  person  present  took  I  is 
whifl"  and  passed  the  empty  pipe  to  the  next,  who  replenished  it  and 
passed  it  on,  each  person  in  his   urn  inflating  himself  to  the  fulk-t 

•  Dobell's  Travels  in  Siberia, 


1826.] 


AND  BEERINO  S  STRAIT. 


257 


extent,  and  gradually  dissipating  the  fumes  through  the  nostrils. 
The  pungency  of  the  smoke,  and  the  time  necessary  to  hold  the 
breath,  occasioned  considerahle  coughing  with  some  of  the  party, 
but  they  nevertheless  appeared  greatly  to  enjoy  the  feast. 

On  the  8th,  Spafarief  Bay,  which  had  heen  hut  little  explored 
by  Captain  Kotzehue,  underwent  a  satisfactory  examination,  and 
was  fo  id  to  terminate  in  a  small  creek  navigable  a  very  short  dis- 
tance, and  that  by  boats  only.  Its  whole  extent  inland  is  about  three 
miles,  when  it  separates  into  a  number  of  small  branches  communi- 
cating with  several  lakes,  which,  in  the  spring,  no  doubt,  discharge 
a  large  quantity  of  fresh  water  into  the  sound,  though  at  this  dry 
season  of  the  year  they  were  of  inconsiderable  size.  A  little  to  the 
northward  of  the  creek  there  is  a  pointed  hill  just  640  feet  high  by 
measurement,  from  whence  we  surveyed  the  surrounding  country, 
and  found  that  this  side  of  the  sound  also  was  covered  with  a  deep 
swampy  moss.  The  summit  of  this  hill,  and  indeed  of  all  the  others 
that  were  ascended  in  the  sound,  was  the  only  part  destitute  of  this 
covering.  The  beach  was  strewed  with  a  great  quantity  of  drift 
wood,  some  of  which  was  in  a  very  perfect  state,  and  appeared  to 
have  been  recently  split  with  wedges  by  the  natives,  who  had  car- 
ried away  large  portions  of  the  trunks  to  make  their  bows,  arrows, 
and  fishing  implements.  They  were  all  pine-trees  except  one,  which 
by  the  bark  appeared  to  be  a  silver  birch. 

On  the  10th  we  had  the  satisfaction  to  see  the  barge  coming  down 
to  us  under  a  press  of  canvass,  and  the  most  lively  expectations 
were  formed  until  she  approached  near  enough  to  discover  that  the 
appointed  signal  of  success  was  wanting  at  her  mast-head.  Though 
unfortunate  in  accomplishing  what  we  most  anxiously  desired,  her 
voyage  was  attended  with  advantage.  We  had  the  satisfaction  to 
learn  from  her  commander  when  he  came  on  board  that  he  had  dis- 
covered a  large  extent  of  coast  beyond  the  extreme  cape  which  we 
had  seen  from  the  mast-head  of  the  ship  on  the  15th  ultimo,  and 
which  I  had  named  after  Captain  Franklin ;  and  had  proceeded  to 
the  latitude  of7r2;3'  31".  N.  and  to  156°  21'  30".  W.,  where  the 
coast  formed  a  low  narrow  neck  beyond  which  it  w'as  impossible  to 
proceed  to  the  eastward,  in  consequence  of  the  ice  being  attached 
to  the  land,  and  extending  along  the  horizon  to  the  northward. 

The  boat  had  not  been  at  this  point  many  hours,  before  the  wind 
changed  to  south-west,  and  set  the  whole  body  of  ice  in  motion  to- 
ward the  land.  This  was  a  case  in  which  Mr.  Elson  had  received 
strict  orders  to  return  innnediately,  and  he  accordingly  began  to  re- 
trace his  route  ;  but  in  so  doing  he  found  that,  in  addition  to  th«  dis- 
advantage of  a  contrary  wind  he  had  to  contend  with  a  current  run- 
iiini!;  to  the  north-east  at  the  rate  of  three  miles  and  a  half  an 
hour,  and  with  large  pieces  of  floating  ice  which  he  found  it  very  diffi- 

33 


M'l 


^ 


258 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Sept. 


Mni 


cult  to  avoid,  until  he  was  at  last  obliged  to  anchor  to  prevent  bein<r 
carried  back.  It  was  not  long  before  he  was  so  closely  beset  in  the 
ice,  that  no  clear  water  could  be  seen  in  any  direction  from  the  hills  • 
and  the  ice  continuing  to  press  against  the  shore,  his  vessel  was  driv- 
en upon  the  beach,  and  there  left  upon  her  broadside  in  a  most 
helpless  condition  ;  and  to  add  to  his  cheerless  prospect,  the  disposi- 
tion of  the  natives,  whom  he  had  found  to  increase  in  numbers  as 
he  advanced  to  the  northward,  was  of  very  doubtful  character.  At 
Point  Barrow,  where  they  were  extremely  numerous,  their  over- 
bearing behaviour,  and  the  thefts  they  openly  practiced,  left  no 
doubt  of  what  would  be  the  fate  of  his  little  crew  in  the  event  of  its 
falling  into  their  power.  They  were  in  this  dilemma  several  days, 
during  which  every  endeavour  was  made  to  extricate  the  vessel 
but  without  effect ;  and  Mr.  Elson  contemplated  sinking  her  secretly 
in  a  lake  that  was  near,  lo  prevent  her  falling  into  the  hands  of  the 
Esquimaux,  and  then  making  his  way  along  the  coast  in  a  baidar, 
which  he  had  no  doubt  he  should  be  able  to  purchase  from  the  na- 
tives. At  length,  however,  a  change  of  wind  loosened  the  ice  ;  and 
after  considerable  labour  and  toil,  in  which  the  personal  strength  of 
the  officers  was  united  to  that  of  the  seamen,  our  shipmates  fortu- 
nately succeeded  in  affecting  their  escape. 

The  farthest  tongue  of  land  which  they  reached  is  conspicuous  as 
being  the  most  northerly  point  yet  discovered  on  the  continent  of 
America ;  and  I  named  it  Point  Barrow,  to  mark  the  progress  of 
northern  discovery  on  each  side  the  American  continent  which  has 
been  so  perseveringly  advocated  by  that  distinguished  member  of 
our  naval  administration.  It  lies  126  miles  to  the  north-east  of  Icy 
Cape,  and  is  only  146  miles  from  the  extreme  of  Captain  Franklin's 
discoveries  in  his  progress  westward  from  the  Mackenzie  River. 
The  bay  which  appeared  to  be  formed  to  the  eastward  of  this  point 
I  named  Elson's  Bay,  in  compliment  to  the  officer  in  command  of 
the  barge ;  and  the  extreme  point  of  our  discoveries  after  Captain 
Franklin,  the  commander  of  the  land  expedition.  I  could  have 
wished  that  this  point  had  been  marked  by  some  conspicuous  head- 
land worthy  of  the  name  bestowed  upon  it ;  but  my  hope  is  that 
the  officer  who  may  be  so  fortunate  as  to  extend  our  discoveries  will 
do  him  the  justice  to  transfer  his  name  to  the  first  object  beyond  it 
more  deserving  of  the  honour.  To  the  nearest  conspicuous  object 
to  the  southward  of  Point  Barrow  I  attached  the  name  of  Smyth,  in 
compliment  to  the  second  officer  of  the  barge ;  and  to  the  points 
and  inlets  to  the  southward,  I  with  pleasure  affixed  the  names  of  the 
officers  of  the  ship,  whose  merits  entitled  them  to  this  distinction. 

I  will  no  longer  anticipate  the  journal  of  these  interesting  proceed- 
ings, in  which  are  recorded  several  particulars  relating  to  the  natives. 
the  currents,  and  the  geography  of  these  regions  ;  and  by  which  it 


1826.] 


AND  BEERINO  S  STRAIT. 


259 


ise 


vident  that  the  officers  and  crew  acquitted  themselves  in  the  most 
persevering  and  zealous  manner,  equally  lionourable  to  themselves 
and  to  their  country.  I  shall  merely  remark  upon  the  facts  which 
jhe  journal  sets  forth,  that  it  was  fortunate  the  sliip  did  not  continue 
near  the  ice,  as  she  would  have  been  unable  to  beat  successfully 
aeainst  the  current,  and  the  violence  of  the  gale  would  probably 
liave  either  entangled  her  amongst  the  ice,  or  have  driven  her  on 
shore. 

The  narrative  was  kept  by  Mr.  Smyth,  under  the  superintendence 
of  his  commander,  whose  more  important  duties  of  surveying  pre- 
vented his  recon  "t.g  more  than  the  necessary  detail  of  a  log-book. 
In  publishing  it  1  nave  given  the  most  important  pari:  of  it  in  Mr. 
Smyth's  own  words,  and  have  only  compressed  the  matter  where  it 
could  be  done  with  propriety  and  advantage. 


^  ':: 


)•■■ 


260 


VUVAOK  TU  THE  PACIFIC 


[^!iqn. 


CHAPTER  XII. 


IntRresting  Narrative  of  the  Boat  Expedition — Point  Barrow — Near  Approach  to 
Captain  Franklin — Beset  by  the  Ice — Perilous  Situation  anil  fortunate  Rcleasp  of 
the  Barg-e — Terrific  Gale— Rejoin  the  Ship — Further  Examination  uf  KtJizcbiu' 
Sound — Discover  Bucklund  River — Maninioth  Bones— Ice  Formation — Approach 
of  Winter  obliires  the  Ship  to  quit  the  Sound — Repass  BcerinpV;  Strait— Giilo— 
Proceed  to  tlie  Southward — Futme  I'lans — Make  St.  Paul's  island — Alriilinn  Is- 
lands— Pass  through  Ooncmak  Cliani;el— Arrive  off  St.  Francisco  in  Culifurnia. 


V7     t'i'^i' 


NARRATIVK  OF  THE  PIIOCEEUINCS  OF  THE  BARGE  OK  H.  M.  SHIP 
BLOSSOM  IN  Q,UEST  OK  CAPTAI.V  FKANKMN,  AND  TO  EXPLORK 
THE  COAST  N.   E.   OF  ICY  CAPE. 

After  the  signal  was  made  by  the  Blossom  on  the  night  of  the 
17th  of  August,  to  carry  orders  into  execution,  the  barge  stood  in- 
shore, and  the  next  morning  was  off  Icy  Cape.  Having  a  contrary 
wind,  she  beat  up  along  tlte  land  to  the  N.  E.,  and  shor'ly  after 
noon  tiie  officers  landed  opposite  a  village  of  yourts,  which  >\as  found 
to  be  deserted,  and  the  houses  to  be  closed  up  for  the  summer. 
These  habitations  closely  resembled  those  of  the  Esquimaux,  which 
have  been  already  described.  The  country  here  was  covered  with 
a  thick  peat,  which  retained  the  water  and  made  it  very  swainpy 
and  almost  impassable.  Upon  the  beach  there  was  found  an  abun- 
dance of  coal  and  drift-wood.  Working  to  the  north-eastward  from 
this  village,  they  discovered  a  shoal  with  only  eight  feet  water  upon 
it  lying  about  150  yards  from  the  beach,  which  having  deep  water 
within  it,  offered  a  security  against  the  ice  in  the  event  of  its  closing 
the  shore,  and  they  did  not  fail  to  bear  in  mind  the  advantage  it 
might  afford  in  a  moment  of  necessity.  About  midnight  they  were 
visited  by  four  baidars  containing  about  sixty  persons,  from  whom 
they  expected  to  obtain  a  supply  of  venison,  as  this  kind  of  provis- 
ion is,  generally  speaking,  abundant  to  the  northward  of  Cap(!  l/is- 
burn  ;  but  being  disappointed,  they  continued  their  progress  along 
the  land.     On  the  morning  of  the  20th  there  was  a  fall  of  snow, 


1826.] 


AND    SEEKING  9    STRAIT. 


961 


and  the  weather  turned  very  cold.  Tliey  found  themselves  off  a 
village,  ;ind  were  visited  by  severul  baidars,  the  crows  of  which  were 
very  anxious  to  get  alongside  the  barge,  and  in  so  doing  one  of  the 
baidars  was  upset.  An  Esquimaux  dress  is  very  ill  adapted  to 
aquatic  exercises,  and  persons  acquainted  with  it  would  think  there 
was  considerable  danger  in  being  plunged  into  the  sea  thus  habited  ; 
but  the  natives  in  the  other  baidars  did  not  seem  to  reflect  upon  these 
consequences,  and  laughed  most  immoderately  at  the  accident ;  they, 
however,  went  to  the  assistance  of  their  friends,  and  rescued  them 
all.  It  must  have  been  a  cold  dip  for  these  people,  as  the  rigging 
and  masts  were  partially  covered  with  ice. 

About  noon  they  landed  to  procure  observations,  and  found  the  lati- 
tude of  this  part  of  the  coast  to  be  70°  43'  47"  N.,  and  longitude  from 
the  bearings  of  Wainvvright  Inlet,  1 59°  46'  W.  Here  a  post  was  erect- 
ed for  Capt.  Franklin,  on  which  the  following  inscription  was  painted: 
"  Blossom's  tender,  Sunday,  August  'iOth,  latitude  70° 43'  N.,  bound 
alon  the  coast  to  the  N.  E.  If  Captain  Franklin  should  pass  this 
place,  he  will  probably  leave  some  memorandum."  The  coast  was 
liero  low,  and  more  dry  than  that  in  the  vicinity  of  Wainwright  In- 
let, with  a  beach  of  sand  and  gravel  mixed,  upon  which  there  was 
an  abundance  of  coal  and  drift-wood.  In  the  the  evening  they 
passed  several  yourts,  but  saw  no  inhabitants  until  nine  o'clock,  when 
several  came  off  and  annoyed  the  crew  with  their  importunities  and 
disorderly  conduct.  The  coast  was  here  more  populous  than  any 
where  to  the  southward,  which  their  visiters  probably  thought  a 
jood  protection  against  the  small  force  of  our  boat,  and  they  were 
not  easily  driven  away. 

On  the  21st  they  arrived  off  a  chain  of  sandy  islands  lying  some 
distance  from  the  main  land,  which  I  have  distinguished  by  the  name 
of  the  Sea  Horse  Islands.  As  the  wind  was  light  and  baffling,  they 
landed  upon  several  of  these  for  observation  ;  and  tracking  the  boat 
along  the  shore,  at  eight  in  the  evening  they  arrived  at  the  point  to 
which  I  transferred  the  name  of  Captain  Franklin,  from  the  cliff  on 
the  main  land  to  which  I  had  originally  given  that  name,  as  I  found 
by  the  discoveries  of  Mr.  Elson  that  the  cliff  was  not  actually  the 
coast  line.  From  Cape  Franklin,  the  coast,  still  consisting  of  a 
chain  of  sandy  islands  lying  off  the  main  land,  turned  to  the  south- 
east and  united  with  the  main  land,  forming  a  bay,  on  which  I  be- 
stowed the  name  of  my  first  lieutenant,  Mr.  Peard.  Two  posts 
were  found  erected  on  Cape  Franklin,  upon  which  another  notice 
was  painted.  The  surface  of  the  beach  was  a  fine  sand,  but  by 
digging  a  few  inrhcs  down  it  was  mixed  with  coal :  there  was  here 
also,  as  at  their  lou^K  r  station,  a  great  quantity  of  drift-wood.  Off 
these  islands  t  inv  w  "-e  visited  by  several  baidars,  the  people  in 
which  behaved  'ui  a    ery  disorderly  manner,  attempted  several  de- 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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11.25 


bilM    12.5 
■^  1^    12.2 

MM 

1-4    11.6 


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Sciences 
Corporation 


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WEB'TCfi.N.Y.  14580 

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VOYAGE  TO  THS  PACIFIC 


[Sept. 


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lit:. 


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predations,  and  even  cut  a  piece  out  of  one  of  the  sails  of  the  boat, 
while  it  was  lying  upon  the  gunwale.  Finding  the  natives  inclined 
to  part  with  one  of  their  baidars,  she  was  purchased  for  two  hatch- 
ets, under  the  impression  that  she  might  be  useful  to  the  boat  here- 
after. Having  run  twenty-nine  miles  along  the  coast  to  the  N.  E., 
they  again  landed,  and  obtained  some  lunar  observations.  The  coats 
here  assumed  a  different  aspect,  and  consisted  of  clay  cliffs,  about 
fifty  feet  high,  and  presented  an  ice  formation  resembling  that  which 
has  been  described  in  Escholtz  Bay.  The  interior  of  the  country 
was  flat,  and  only  partially  covered  with  snow.  A  short  distance  to 
the  northward  of  them  a  river  discharged  itself  into  a  lake  within 
the  shingly  beach,  which  was  about  twenty  yards  wide,  and  the  wa- 
ter being  perfectly  fresh,  they  obtained  a  supply,  and  pursued  their 
course  to  the  north-east.  Their  latitude  was  70"  58'  43  "  N.;  and 
no  ice  had  as  yet  been  seen,  even  from  the  hills.  This  excited  the 
greatest  hopes  in  our  adventurous  shipmates,  who  advanced  quite 
elated  at  the  prospect ;  but  they  had  not  proceeded  many  miles  fur- 
ther before  some  bergs  were  seen  in  the  offing  nearly  in  the  same 
parallel  in  which  the  margin  of  the  ire  had  been  found  by  the  ship; 
and  from  the  number  of  bergs  increasing  as  they  advanced,  the  san- 
guine expectations  in  which  they  had  indulged  gradually  diminished, 
These  bergs  were  seen  off  a  point  of  land  to  which  I  gave  the  name 
of  Smyth,  in  Compliment  to  the  officer  who  accompanied  the  boat 
expedition,  and  very  deservedly  obtained  his  promotion  for  that 
service.  In  the  course  of  their  run  they  passed  a  village,  where 
the  inhabitants,  seeing  them  so  near,  came  out  of  their  yourts,  and 
men,  women,  children,  and  dogs  set  up  a  loud  hallooing  until  they 
were  gone.  Upon  Cape  Smyth  there  was  also  a  village,  the  inhab- 
itants of  which  accosted  them  with  the  same  hooting  noises  as  before. 

Advancing  to  the  northward  with  the  wind  off  the  land,  they  saw 
the  main  body  of  ice  about  seven  miles  distant  to  the  westward, 
and  were  much  encumbered  by  the  icebergs,  which  they  could  only 
avoid  by  repeatedly  altering  the  course.  The  land  from  Cape 
Smyth,  which  was  about  forty-five  feet  in  height,  sloped  j^radually  to 
the  northward,  and  terminated  in  a  low  point  which  has  been  named 
Point  Barrow.  From  the  rapidity  with  which  the  boat  passed  the 
land,  there  appears  to  have  been  a  current  setting  to  the  north-east. 
The  water,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  cape,  was  between  six  and 
seven  fathoms  deep. 

Wednesday,  23rd  Aug.  "Arriving  about  two  a.  m.  off  the  low 
point,  we  found  it  much  encumbered  with  ice,  and  the  current  set- 
ting N.  W.  (mag.)  between  three  and  four  miles  an  hour.  Opening 
the  prospect  on  its  eastern  side,  the  view  was  obstructed  by  a  bar- 
rier of  ice  w  hich  appeared  to  join  with  the  land.  This  barrier 
seemed  high  j  but  as  there  was  much  ref-action,  in  this  we 'might 


1826.] 


AND  BEERINg's  STRAIT. 


S63 


possibly  have  been  deceived.  The  weather  assuming  a  very  un- 
settled appearance  in  the  offing,  (and  the  S.  E.  breeze  dying  away,) 
w  had  every  reason  to  expect  the  wind  from  the  westward ;  and 
knowing  the  ice  to  extend  as  far  south  as  71°,  the  consequences  that 
flould  attend  such  a  shift  were  so  evident,  that  we  judged  it  prudent 
not  to  attempt  penetrating  any  farther,  especially  in  this  advanced 
state  c.'"  the  season.  Accordingly  we  anchored  within  the  eighth  of 
a  mile  of  the  point,  under  shelter  of  an  iceberg  about  fourteen  feet 
high,  and  from  fifty  to  sixty  feet  in  length,  that  had  grounded  in 
four  fathoms  water.  On  the  eastern  side  of  the  point  there  was  a 
village,  larger  than  any  we  had  before  seen,  consisting  entirely  of 
yourts.  The  natives,  on  seeing  us  anchor,  came  down  opposite  the 
boat  in  great  numbers,  but  seemed  very  doubtful  whether  to  treat  us 
as  friends  or  enemies.  We  made  signs  of  friendship  to  them ;  and 
a  couple  of  baidars  reluctantly  ventured  ofFand  accepted  a  few  beads 
and  some  tobacco,  which  on  their  return  to  the  shore  induced  sev- 
eral others  to  visit  us.  These  people  were  clothed  like  the  Esqui- 
maux we  had  seen  on  the  other  parts  of  the  coast :  their  imple- 
ments were  also  the  same,  except  that  we  thought  they  were  more 
particular  in  constructing  the  bow,  the  spring  of  which  was  strength- 
ened with  whalebone. 

Many  of  the  men  wore,  as  lip  ornaments,  slabs  of  bone  and  stone 
in  an  oblong  shape,  about  three  inches  in  length  and  one  in  breadth. 
They  were  much  more  daring  than  any  people  we  had  before  seen, 
and  attempted  many  thefts  in  the  most  open  manner.  Tobacco  was 
the  most  marketable  article  ;  but  excepting  their  implements,  orna- 
ments, or  dress,  they  had  nothing  worth  purchasing.  They  were 
exceedingly  difficult  to  please,  and  not  at  all  satisfied  with  what  was 
§iven  in  exchange,  insisting,  after  a  bargain  had  been  transacted,  on 
having  more  for  their  articles.  One  of  them  who  came  alongside  in 
a  coiack,  having  obtained  some  tobacco  that  was  offered  for  a  lance, 
was  resolute  in  not  delivering  up  either  ;  and  Mr.  Elson  considering 
that  if  such  conduct  was  tamely  submitted  to  they  would  be  still 
more  inclined  to  impose,  endeavoured  by  threats  to  regain  the  to- 
bacco, but  without  effect.  More  boats  coming  off,  and  proving  by 
their  audacity  equally  troublesome,  we  thought  it  would  be  most 
advantageous  to  keep  the  barge  under  sail,  which  in  all  probability 
would  prevent  any  thing  serious  occurring.  Before  weighing,  the 
baidar  was  broken  up,  as  her  weight  would  materially  impede  our 
progress  in  working  to  windward  on  our  return  ;  the  hides  were  tak- 
en as  a  covering  for  the  deck,  and  the  frame-work  destroyed  for  fire- 
wood. During  the  time  we  were  at  anchor,  the  wind  shifted  to  S. 
W.,  and  we  stood  to  the  N.  W.  with  a  light  breeze ;  but  finding 
ourselves  drifting  rapidly  to  the  northward  by  current,  we  were 
again  obliged  to  anchor,  Point  Barrow  bearing  S.  by  E.  1-2  E.  two 


'     { 


•V 


264 


VOTAOB  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Sept. 


C'i 


and  a  half  miles.  Here  we  remained  till  eight  o'clock.  This  point 
is  the  termination  to  a  spit  of  land,  which  on  examination  from  the 
boat's  mast-head  seemed  to  jut  out  several  miles  from  the  more  reg. 
ular  coast  line.  The  width  of  the  neck  did  not  exceed  a  mile  and 
a  half,  and  apparently  in  some  places  less.  The  extremity  was 
broader  than  any  other  part,  had  several  small  lakes  of  water  on  it, 
which  were  frozen  over,  and  the  village  before  spoken  of  is  situated 
on  its  eastern  shore.  The  eastern  side  of  this  neck  trended  in  a  S. 
S.  W.  (mag.)  direction  until  it  became  lost  to  the  eye  being  joined 
with  a  body  of  ice  that  encircled  the  horizon  in  the  N.  E.  This 
union  scarcely  left  us  room  to  hazard  an  opinion  which  direction  it 
afterwards  took  ;  but  from  the  circumstance  of  the  currant  setting  at 
the  rate  of  three  miles  and  a  half  an  hour  N.  E.  (true),  and  tlieice 
all  drifting  to  that  quarter,  we  were  induced  to  conjecture  that  its 
continuation  led  well  to  the  eastward. 

It  was  our  original  hitention  to  have  remained  at  the  point  till 
noon,  landed,  and  obtained  if  possible  all  the  necessary  observations, 
besides  depositing  instructions  for  Captain  Franklin  ;  but  the  char- 
acter of  the  natives  entirely  frustrated  our  plans,  and  obliged  us,  to 
avoid  an  open  rupture,  to  quit  the  anchorage — a  circumstance  we 
greatly  regretted,  as  we  had  anticipated  gathering  much  information 
respecting  the  coast  to  the  eastward,  and  on  other  points  of  import- 
ance. The  nights  had  hitherto  been  beautifully  clear  and  fine,  and 
we  were  very  sanguine  of  obtaining  a  number  of  lunar  distances 
with  the  sun,  being  the  only  means  we  had  of  ascertaining  correctly 
our  farthest  easting,  as  the  patent  log,  we  knew,  from  the  strength 
of  current,  could  in  no  way  be  depended  on.  At  nine  we  weighed, 
and,  stemming  the  current,  stood  in  for  the  low  point,  off  which 
there  was  an  iceberg  aground,  on  which  we  resolved  to  wait  till 
noon  for  the  latitude.  On  our  way  thither  we  passed  another  ex- 
tensive iceberg  aground  in  six  fathoms  water,  and  not  more  than 
eight  or  ten  feet  above  the  surface.  At  noon  we  were  favoured 
with  a  clear  sun,  and  determined  our  lattitude  to  be  71°  24'  59' N. 
Lunar  anchorage  bearing  from  the  place  of  observation  one  mile 
north  (true),  and  the  north-eastern  part  of  Point  Barrow  S.  E.  3-4 
E.  (mag.)  1  1-2'.  From  which  the  position  of  Point  Barrow,  the 
most  northern  part  known  of  the  American  continent,  is  latitude 
71°  23'  31"  N.,  longitude  156°  21'  30''  W.  The  azimuth  sights 
made  the  variation  41°  east. 

The  breeze  still  continuing  light  from  the  S.  E.  (although  the 
clouds  were  approaching  from  the  westward),  we  made  all  sail  to 
the  southward,  and  with  great  reluctance  left  this  remarkable  point 
without  being  able  to  leave  any  traces  of  our  having  visited  it  for 
Captain  Franklin.  The  wind  about  one  p.  m.  began  gradually  to 
fall,  and  at  two  it  was  perfectly  calm.     Unfortunately  we  were  now 


"S&.. 


1826.] 


AND  BEERINg's  STRAIT. 


265 


in  too  much  water  to  anchor,  and  were,  without  tlie  possibility  of 
helping  it,  being  set  to  the  N.  E.  by  the  current  at  the  rate  of  three 
miles  and  a  half  an  hour.     By  four  o'clock  we  had  lost  all  we  had 
made  during  the  day,  with  a  prospect,  if  it  continued  calm,  of  being 
drifted  quite  off  the  land — an  accident  that,  had  it  occurred,  would 
have  placed  our  little  vessel  in  a  very  serious  situation.     We  were 
not,  however,  long  in  this  state  of  suspense  ;  for  an  air  came  again 
from  the  eastward,  which  strengthening  a  little,  and  with  the  boat 
ahead  towing,  we  made  good  progress  towards  the  land,  where,  if  it 
once  more  fell  calm,  we  could  retain  our  position  with  the  anchor. 
When  we  had  by  towing  and  pulling  got  within  a  mile  of  the  beach 
(and  about  two  miles  west  of  the  point),  nineteen  of  the  natives  came 
down  opposite    us    armed  with  bows,  arrows,  and  spears,  and  im- 
agining that  it  was  our  intention  to  land,  motioned  us  to  keep  off, 
and  seemed  quite  prepared  for  hostilities.     Some  of  them  were  strip- 
ped almost  naked.     They  preserved  a  greater  silence  than  we  found 
customary  among  them,  one  only  speaking  at  a  time,  and  apparently 
interrogating  us.     Notwithstanding  this  show  of  resistance,  we  still 
advanced  nearer  to  the  shore,  as  being  more  out  of  the  current  and 
favourable  to  our  views,  at  the  same  time  having  the  arms  in  read- 
iness in  case  of  an  attack. 

When  within  about  thirty  yards  of  the  beach,  we  lost  the  wind, 
and  continued  pulling  and  towing  along  shore,  the  natives  walking 
abreast  of  us  upon  the  beach.     At  eight  p.  m.  we  passed  a  village 
of  eight  tents  and  four  boats,  but  saw  neither  women  nor  children. 
Whilst  approaching  this  village,  we  perceived  the  men  hauling  their 
baidars  higher  up  on  the  beach,  fearful,  as  we  supposed,  that  we 
should  molest  them.     Their  dogs,  as  usual,  set  up  a  most  abomina- 
ble yelling.     About  eleven  our  pedestrians  began  to  h^,  and  shortly 
after  made  a  general  halt,  watched  us  for  a  little  while,  and  then  turned 
back.     At  midnight  we  reached  Cape  Smyth,  and  considering  our- 
selves tolerably  well  secure  from  the  ice  (not  having  seen  any  until 
our  arrival  off  this  point  on  the  evening  before,)  and  the  crew  being 
much  tired,  we  ancho-ed,  hoping  that  a  few  hours  would  bring  a 
breeze — ^not  caring  from  which  quarter,  as  we  felt  confident  that, 
before  the  ice  could  approach  near  enough  to  block  us,  we  should 
be  able  to  reach  the  Sea  Horse  Islands,  where  we  made  certain  of 
being  clear.     The  night  dark  and  cloudy. 

Thursday,  24th  August.  At  two  a.  m.,  a  fine  breeze  rising  at 
E.  S.  E.,  we  weighed,  but  found  the  current  so  strong  against  us 
that  we  lost  ground  and  anchored  again  :  the  current  setting  north 
(mag.)  three  miles  and  a  half  an  hour.  At  three  we  were  alarmed 
at  the  sudden  appearance  of  the  ice,  which  was  drifting  fast  down 
on  us.  No  time  was  to  be  lost.  The  crew  were  instantly  sent  on 
shore  with  a  warp.     We  got  up  the  anchor,  and  hauled  within  eight 

34 


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266 


VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[August. 


or  ten  yards  of  the  beach,  it  being  steep  enough  to  admit  our  pro- 
ceeding tlius  close.  We  now  began  tracking  the  boat  along,  and 
proceeded  for  a  short  time  without  much  difficulty  ;  but  the  ice  in- 
creasing fast,  and  the  pieces  getting  larger,  she  received  some  vio- 
lent blows.  The  main  body  nearing  the  shore  to  the  distance  of 
about  100  yards  left  this  space  less  incumbered,  and  occasioned  an 
increase  in  the  rapidity  of  the  current  one  knot  an  hour.  To  add 
to  our  perplexities,  at  five  the  wind  freshened  up  at  south  (directly 
against  us),  and  we  also  had  the  mortification  to  observe  tlie  jo'p 
speedily  coimecting  with  the  beach,  scarcely  leaving  an  open  space 
visible.  Nothing  now  but  the  greatest  exertion  could  extricate  tlie 
boat ;  and  the  crew,  willing  to  make  the  most  of  every  trifling  ad- 
vantage, gave  a  hearty  cheer,  and  forced  her  through  thick  and 
heavy  ice  until  we  rounded  a  projecting  point  that  had  hitherto  ob- 
structed our  view.  This,  however,  could  only  be  accomplished  wita 
considerable  labour  and  risk  ;  for  here,  as  in  many  other  places,  we 
had  to  track-line  up  cliffs,  frequently  covered  with  hard  snow  and  ice, 
which,  hanging  a  considerable  distance  overthe  water,  prevented  the 
possibility  of  getting  round  beneath.  The  rope  was  then  obli£;ed  to 
be  thrown  down,  and  the  upper  end  held  fast,  until  the  new  hauled 
themselves  up  one  by  one  ;  and  in  this  manner  we  continued  along  the 
cliff  until  the  beach  again  made  its  appearance.  But  here  even  we 
found  it  no  easy  task  to  walk,  on  account  of  small  loose  shingle,  in 
which  we  often  sunk  to  the  knees ;  and  having  the  weight  of  the 
boat  at  the  same  time,  it  became  excessively  fatiguing. 

On  opening  the  prospect  south  of  this  point,  our  spirits  were 
greatly  enlivened  at  perceiving  the  channel  clear  for  a  long  way, 
and  hoping  that  by  constant  tracking  we  should  do  much  towards 
getting  clear  of  the  ice,  we  divided  the  crew  into  two  parties,  gave 
each  man  a  dram,  and  sent  one  division  on  board  to  rest,  whilst  tiie 
other  laboured  at  the  line.  About  eight  a.  m.  the  win  J  freshened  so 
heavily  against  us,  that  we  contemplated  whether  or  not  it  would 
be  advantageous  to  make  a  trial  with  the  canvass,  particularly  as 
the  main  body  of  ice  was  a  little  more  distant  from  the  shore ;  but 
remembering  our  position  at  two  p.  m.  on  the  preceding  day,  we 
agreed  that  the  current  was  too  strong,  and  that  if  we  should  get 
encircled  by  the  ice  we  must  inevitably  be  separated  from  the  shore, 
carried  back  with  the  stream,  or  forced  to  sea.  The  difficulty  of 
drawing  the  boat  against  so  strong  a  wind  and  current  became  now 
very  great,  and  we  began  to  seek  a  place  where  she  might  be  laid 
free  of  the  ice.  But  the  straight  line  of  coast  offered  us  no  pros- 
pect of  such  an  asylum  ;  we  therefore  determined  to  prosecute  our 
first  intention  of  persevering  in  our  endeavours  as  long  as  possible. 
By  eleven  a.  m.  we  reached  >.a  village  of  nine  tents,  and  trusted 
through  the  influence  of  tobacco,  beads,  &c.  to  receive  some  assis- 


^•^ 


hrough   thick  and 


!ceive  some  assis- 


1826.] 


AND    BEERING^    STRAIT. 


267 


laiice  from  the  inhabitants.  Two  of  them  approached  us  at  first 
ttith  some  diffidence ;  but  Mr.  Elson  throwing  tlie  presents  on  shore, 
and  myself  going  to  meet  them,  after  much  gesticulation  denoting 
peaceable  intentions,  we  joined  company.  The  ratification  of  rub- 
bing noses  and  cheeks  being  over,  a  leaf  of  tobacco  given  to  each 
soon  gained  their  confidence.  One  of  them,  an  old  man,  seemed 
very  thankful  for  his  present,  offering  me  any  part  of  his  garment  as 
a  reimbursement,  which  I  declined  accepting.  Seeing  so  friendly 
an  interview,  several  more  ventured  towards  us  ;  and  learning  from 
their  companions  the  treasures  I  possessed,  were  very  eager  to  ob- 
tain some.  By  a  few  signs  I  easily  made  them  understand  that  their 
assistance  at  the  track-line  would  be  amply  rewarded.  Six  or  seven 
directly  took  hold  of  the  rope  ;  and  our  people  relaxing  a  little  in 
their  exertions,  though  continuing  at  the  line,  we  proceeded  along 
gaily  ;  but  I  was  frequently  obliged  to  have  recourse  to  the  presents 
to  keep  them  pulling.  We  had  not  passed  the  tents  more  than  half 
a  mile  when  a  new  and  a  very  serious  difficulty  presented  itself — 
the  mouth  of  a  river  into  which  the  current  set  with  great  velocity, 
carrying  with  it  large  rndsses  of  ice.  After  many  attempts  we  suc- 
ceeded in  getting  a  line  across ;  but  had  no  sooner  accomplished  it, 
tlian  it  broke,  and  our  repeated  trials  for  a  long  time  were  unsuc- 
cessful. Eventually  we  managed  to  overcome  this  obstacle,  and 
had  just  got  the  boat  to  the  opposite  shore  when  she  grounded ; 
and  the  current  setting  strong  against  her,  all  our  exertions  to  get 
her  afloat  were  ineffectual.  A  few  minutes  before  this  accident, 
]k.  Elson,  who  was  on  board,  hailed  me,  saying  that  the  channel 
after  crossing  the  river  looked  more  favourable  than  ever.  Cheered 
by  this  report,  we  worked  harder ;  but  so  quick  was  the  ice  in  its 
movement,  that  in  a  few  moments  we  wore  enclosed  on  all  sides. 
\othing  more  towards  freeing  the  boat  could  now  be  done,  there- 
fore we  carried  out  her  anchors  to  the  shore  and  secured  her,  con- 
templating a  retreat  by  land  should  we  not  be  so  fortunate  as  to  get 
clear.  On  looking  to  the  southward,  we  found  the  ice  perfectly 
compact,  and  connected  with  the  shore,  not  leaving  visible  a  space 
of  water  three  yards  in  diameter.  The  crew  now  enjoyed  a  little 
rest;  and  Mr.  Elson  decided  that  we  should  remain  by  the  bp^: 
until  the  1st  of  September,  on  which  da}',  should  no  chance  appear 
of  liberating  her,  we  were  to  start  by  land  for  Kotzebue  Sound. 

Some  large  ice  grounding  to  windward  partially  sheltered  the  boat ; 
but  as  her  situation  was  on  the  southern  bank  of  the  entrance  to  the 
the  river,  the  current  swept  with  force  round,  bringing  occasionally 
some  heavy  ice  in  contact  with  the  boat,  the  violence  of  which  hove 
lier  into  a  foot  and  a  half  lejs  water  than  she  drew ;  and  the  sand 
soon  formed  a  bank  on  the  outside,  leaving  her  quite  bedded.  At 
six  p.  M.  the  current  had  almost  subsided.     A  most  cheerless  pros- 


^*'. 

I  J 


K 


t«t 


•'   ]■     1 

I 


I 


*  . 


.     ) 


If 
't    lU., 


•ill 


n 


i:-   :-•»► 


J'T    / 


268 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[August, 


0^'^ 


J)" 


pect  presented  itself,  the  whole  sea  being  covered  with  ice  sufficient- 
ly compact  to  walk  upon  ;  and  the  clouds  becoming  heavy  and  fly- 
ing swiftly  from  the  S.  W.,  offered  not  the  smallest  hope  of  our 
escape.  The  water  had  likewise  "fallen  n  foot  and  a  half,  leaving 
the  boat  nearly  dry.  Our  feoliugs  now  were  indescribable,  as  it  ap- 
peared very  evident  that  we  should  be  obliged  to  abandon  our  little 
vessel,  and  perform  the  journey  to  Chamisso  Island  on  foot — an 
undertaking  we  were  by  no  means  adequate  to,  and  which  the  ad- 
vanced state  of  the  season  would  render  extremely  fatiguing.  At 
eight  we  ascended  a  hill,  but  saw  not  the  slightest  chance  of  an  open- 
ing, the  ice  to  the  southward  being  very  compact  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach,  and  varying  in  its  height  from  twelve  to  two  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea.  At  midnight  the  weather  was  cold,  dark,  and 
foggy,  and  seemed  to  indicate  a  S.  W.  gale. 

Friday,  25th  Aug.  At  four  this  morning  the  current  appeared 
to  resume  something  of  its  former  rapidity,  causing  the  ice  to  move  to 
the  northward,  and  leaving  small  openings.  This  gave  us  faint 
hopes  of  a  release  ;  but  the  wind  springing  up  as  we  had  anticipated, 
soon  extinguished  them.  After  breakfast  we  again  visited  the  liill, 
but  with  no  belter  success  than  before.  The  tide  returning  or  ebbing 
from  the  river  brought  back  with  it  a  quantity  of  the  ice,  almost  every 
piece  of  which  drifted  athwart  the  boat ;  so  that  we  determined  on 
getting  her  afloat,  and  shifting  her  to  a  better  berth,  where  we  should 
be  ready  to  avail  ourselves  of  the  smallest  prospect  of  getting  clear. 
Having  laid  out  an  anchor  astern,  we  with  much  difficulty  got  her 
through  the  sand  bank  that  had  formed  itself  round  us  ;  and  finding 
that  at  her  own  length  farther  out  a  channel  was  left  for  the  ice  to 
drive  either  out  or  into  the  river,  we  secured  her  to  a  large  berg 
that  had  grounded  and  afforded  us  much  shelter.  Towards  noon  a 
number  of  natives  vitited  us,  and  were  presented  wit'i  lobacco,  &c. 
Among  them  was  the  old  man  spoken  of  the  day  before  ;  who  on 
receiving  his  present,  offered  up  what  we  concluded  to  be  a  prayer, 
at  the  same  time  blowing  with  his  mouth,  as  if  imploring  an  cast 
wind  and  the  dispersion  of  the  ice. — In  the  afternoon  the  wind  had 
increased  to  a  gale.  We  went  to  the  hill,  and  there  observed  the 
line  of  ice  within  the  horizon,  and  the  sea  breaking  very  heavily  out- 
side :  we  saw  also  a  number  of  large  bergs  drifting  down.  At  four, 
fresh  gales  with  heavy  squalls — the  ice  around  us  became  closely 
wedged,  the  pieces  being  forced  one  over  another,  forming  a  solid 
mass.  The  body  of  ice  in  the  offing  was  still  drifting  to  the  north- 
ward. This  day  Mr.  Elson  determined,  if  we  should  be  compelled 
to  quit  the  boat  ,  to  take  every  thing  out  of  her  except  the  gun,  to 
remove  her  into  the  deepest  part  of  the  river,  and  there  sink  her, 
so  as  to  prevent  the  natives  from  destroying  or  breaking  her  up  to 
obtain  the  iron  ;  from  which  situation,  should  we  visit  this  coast  next 


1826.] 


AND  BEERIIfo's  KTRAIT. 


869 


wit'i  lobacco,  &c. 


year,  she  might  with  little  trouble  be  raised.    Tlic  stores  and  rigging 
also  we  resolved  to  bury,  and  to  leave  directions  where  they  might 
be  found.     On  visiting  the  village  (which  was  about  half  a  mile  dis- 
tant), the  natives  were  uncommonly  civil.     They  resided  in  tents, 
the  frames  of  which  were  made  with  poles,  and  covered   with  seal- 
skins :  the  bottom  or  floor  was  merely  a  few  logs  laid  sidewise  on  the 
ground :  inside  there  was  a  second  lining  of  reindeer  skin,  which 
did  not  reach  quite  to  the  top:  this  constituted  the  whole  oftiieir 
dwelling.     Their  principal  food  appeared  to  be  reindeer  and  seal's 
flesh  ;  and  having  procured  more  than  sufficient  of  these  animals  for 
present  use,  they  had  buried  the  overplus  in  the  sand,  to  be  kept 
until  required.     They  very  generously  led  us  to  a  seal  that  had 
been  thus  deposited.     The  flesh  and  blubber  which  had  been  sepa- 
rated were  wrapped  in  the  skin,  and  were  in  a  most  disgusting  oily 
state.     One  of  the  natives  put  in  his  hand,  stirred  up  the  contents, 
and  offered  us  some,  the  sight  of  which   alone  was  enough  to  turn 
one's  stomach.     He  seemed  to  pity  our  want  of  taste,  and  sucked 
his  fingers  with   the  greatest   relish.     Each   of  the   crew  having 
provided   himself  with   native  boots,  &ic.,  for  travelling  in,  return- 
ed to  the  boat.     During  the  night  the  gale  abated,  and  the  wind  fell 
almost  calm,  and  it  began  to  freeze  hard.     Wherever  there  was  any 
opening  before,  the  water  was  covered  with  young  ice.     The  tide 
here  rose  and  fell  from  eighteen  to  twenty  inches : — the  time  of 
change  very  irregular,  probably  influenced  by  the  ice. 

Saturday,  26th  Aug.  Our  chance  of  getting  clear  seemed  more 
remote  now  than  ever,  and  we  commenced  making  preparation  for 
the  land  journey.  The  crew  were  sent  on  shore  to  exercise  their 
limbs,  and  train  themselves  for  walking.  We  traced  the  winding  of 
the  river  for  some  distance ;  the  banks  were  high  on  each  side.  It 
seemed  deep,  and  its  turnings  frequent  and  sudden.  The  only  an- 
imal we  saw  was  a  red  fox,  which  avoided  our  pursuit.  In  the  eve- 
ning we  returned  to  the  boat — the  weather  still  frosty. 

Sunday,  2'i  -h  Aug.  We  had  a  sharp  frost  during  the  night,  attended 
with  frozen  particles,  which  fell  like  dust,  and  covered  our  clothes. 
The  wind  light  from  the  S.  W.,  with  a  thick  fog.  The  fresh  water 
ponds  were  frozen  to  the  thickness  of  half  an  inch.  After  eight  a. 
M.,  Mr.  Elson  and  myself  walked  along  the  beach  to  reconnitre  the 
state  of  the  ice.  We  found  that  if  we  could  cut  the  boat  through 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  ice,  we  should  get  into  about  double  that  dis 
tance  of  clear  water,  and  returned  on  board  with  the  determination 
lo  accomplish  this.  Having  got  the  boat  afloat,  we  began  our  ar- 
duous task  of  cutting  and  hauling  her  through  the  ice.  "The  natives, 
seeing  us  thus  employed,  very  kindly  came  (unasked)  and  lent  their 
assistance.  We  persevered  in  our  labours  till  half  past  three,  by 
which  time  we  had  moved  the  boat  amileandahalfsouthofherfor- 


4 


■''  >m 


# 


^.ti&^ 


270 


VOTACE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[August, 


)l 


mer  position.  Another  and  more  formidable  barrier  was  now  op- 
posed  to  us,  consisting  of  extensive  pieces  of  ice  aground,  closely 
wedged  together  by  smaller  masses,  under  which  we  anchored. 
After  dinner  INIr.  fclson  and  myself  again  visited  the  cliffs,  and 
thought  we  could  perceive  a  zigzag  channel,  which  afforded  a  hope 
of  liberation,  provided  we  could  force  her  through  the  present  oh- 
stacle.  Immediately  we  got  on  board,  we  commenced  cutting  a 
passage  ;  hut  had  no  sooner  made  an  opening,  than  it  was  filled  by 
the  current  drifting  smaller  pieces  of  ice  down.  These  we  for  some 
time  kept  cutting  and  clearing  away  ;  but  after  two  hours  and  a  lialf 
of  hard  work,  wc  found  our  t  .\ertions  endless,  and  relinquished  ilie 
attempt.  In  the  evening  the  wind  %eered  to  the  S.  E.,  and  the 
breeze,  though  light  from  this  quarter,  put  someof  the  smaller  piec- 
es of  ice  in  motion  off  the  land.  We  remained  up  till  midnight,  al- 
though fatigued  with  the  toils  of  the  day,  and  the  wind  having  in- 
creased to  a  fresh  breeze,  had  the  consolation  to  witness  the  mov- 
ing  of  several  of  the  larger  pieces.  The  collision  that  now  took 
place,  owing  to  the  shift  of  the  wind  (the  ice  in  the  offmg  still  holding 
its  former  course,  whilst  that  in-shore  was  opposed  to  it),  occasioned 
a  grinding  noise  not  unlike  to  that  of  a  heavy  roaring  surf.  Having 
fully  satisfied  ourselves  of  the  departure  of  the  ice,  if  the  wind  should 
hold  its  present  direction  and  force,  we  returned  to  rest,  anxiously 
waiting  the  following  morning. 

Monday,  28th  Aug.  Rbing  early,  we  had  the  great  satisfaction 
to  sec  that  the  formidable  barrier  which  yesterday  afternoon  liad 
been  proof  against  our  attempts,  bad  nearly  all  drifted  to  sea,  and 
that  the  coast,  as  far  as  we  could  discern,  was  fast  clearing  of  ice. 
The  wind  blew  strong  at  S.  S.  E. ;  and  every  preparation  being 
made  for  weighing,  after  a  hasty  breakfast  the  anchor  was  got  up, 
and  our  little  vessel  again  bounded  through  the  waters.  Our  tack- 
ing now  was  very  uncertain,  as  it  some  places  the  ice  still  remained 
thick,  and  obliged  us  to  perfoim  that  evolution  twice  or  tlirice  in 
the  space  of  a  few  minutes  ;  and  as  we  made  it  a  rule  not  to  bear 
up  for  any  thing,  we  had  some  close  rubs.  By  two  p.  m.  we  could 
see  the  southern  termination  of  the  main  body  of  ice.  There  were 
still  a  number  of  large  pieces  aground,  and  much  drift  about  us ;  the 
current  setting  to  the  northward  at  the  rate  of  a  mile  and  half  an 
hour.  At  three  the  wind  fell  light.  A  heavy  swell  from  the  S.Vi. 
occasioned  a  furious  surf  along  the  beach,  and  obliged  us  to  keep 
well  out  to  sea.  The  ice  still  extending  far  to  windward  made  our 
situation  very  critical  should  the  wind  blow  hard  from  the  S.  W. 
It  now  fell  calm,  with  heavy  clouds  in  the  S.  W.;  and  being  in  want 
of  water,  we  procured  a  supply  fit)m  the  bergs  that  were  near  us. 
We  watched  every  cloud  with  the  greatest  anxiety,  and  at  eight  ob- 
served them  coming  steadily  from  the  westward,  bringing  with  them 


18-26.] 


AND  BEERINO  S  STRAIT. 


271 


ier  was  now  o]i- 
aground,  closely 
ch  we  anchoreil. 
;d  the  cliffs,  and 
1  afforded  a  hope 
1  the  present  ob- 
Tienced  cutting  a 
in  it  was  filled  by 
["hese  we  for  some 
■o  hours  and  a  halt' 
I  relinquished  the 
3  S.  E.,  and  the 
tf  the  smaller  piec- 
p  till  midnight,  al- 
;  wind  having  in- 
witness  the  inov- 
3n  that  now  took 
;  offing  still  holding 
i  to  it),  occasioned 
ring  surf.  Having 
,  if  the  wind  should 
to  rest,  anxiously 

e  great  satisfaction 
lay  afternoon  had 
Irifted  to  sea,  and 
St  clearing  of  ice. 
)reparation  being 
ichor  was  got  up, 
aters.     Our  tack- 
e  ice  still  remained 
twice  or  thrice  in 
rule  not  to  bear 
wo  P.  M.  we  could 
ice.     There  were 
drift  ahout  us  ;  the 
mile  and  half  an 
ell  from  the  S.^V. 
iliged  us  to  keep 
indward  made  our 
•d  from  the  S.  W. 
and  being  in  want 
lat  were  near  us. 
y,  and  at  eight  oh- 
ringing  with  them 


II  thick  fog.  We  then  stood  to  the  northward  until  we  reached  the 
ice.  when  we  tacked  to  the  southward,  and  sailed  along  its  margin. 
There  were  several  walruses  upon  it,  .vhicli  at  our  approach  bund- 
led into  the  water.  We  had  scarcely  got  clear  of  this  field  or  body 
of  ice,  when  it  again  fell  calm,  the  clouds  very  heavy,  and  a  thick  fog. 
Finding  that  the  current  was  again  setting  us  to  the  northward  at  the 
rate  of  two  miles  and  a  half  an  hour,  we  anchored,  and  had  no  soon- 
er done  so,  than  several  large  detached  bergs  were  seen  driving  rap- 
idly down  in  our  hawse.  We  again  got  up  the  anchor,  and  towed 
ihe  boat  in-shore,  where  we  anchored  again,  and  kept  a  vigilant 
look-out. 

Tuesday,  29th  Aug.  In  the  course  of  the  night  the  S.  W.  swell 
went  down,  and  at  one  this  mornrng  a  light  air  sprang  up  from  the 
S.  E.  Weighed  and  stood  in-shore,  the  wind  gradually  freshening. 
In  running  along  the  land,  passed  a  quantity  of  drift  ice.  At  noon, 
saw  another  body  of  ice  about  two  miles  distant,  extending  about 
eleven  miles  N.  and  S.  ;  and  ao  wc  were  nut  ^  ui  fui  unuugh  south  to 
see  Cape  Franklin,  we  were  apprehensive  the  ice  might  join  it,  in 
which  case  we  should  be  again  beset.  In  the  afternoon,  with  great 
pleasure,  we  passed  between  it  and  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
ice  at  the  distance  of  a  mile  and  a  half.  At  three,  it  again  fell  calm 
—Cape  Franklin,  W.  S.  W.  one  mile.  We  were  preparing  to  go 
on  shore  to  deposit  a  bottle  for  Captain  Franklin,  which  we  had  not 
done  on  our  way  to  the  northward,  when  a  fresh  gale  suddenly  rising 
atW.  S.  W.  obliged  us  to  abandon  the  project,  as  not  a  moment  was 
to  be  lost  in  getting  out  of  the  bight,  lest  the  ice  (which  experience 
had  now  taught  us  was  quick  in  its  motion)  might  again  enclose  us. 
The  weather  continued  very  unsettled  during  the  night. 

Wednesday,  30th  Aug.  Having  rounded  the  point,  we  ran  fifty 
miles  on  a  S.  W.  course.  The  wind  then  suddenly  shifted  to  the 
S.  W.,  blew  very  strong.  We  shortened  sail  to  the  close-reefed 
mainsail  and  storm-jib,  and  stood  off  and  on  shore.  In  the  eve- 
ning we  had  showers  of  snow  and  sleet,  and  at  midnight  strong 
gales  with  squalls  of  snow. 

Thursday,  31st  Aug.  At  two  a.  m.  a  heavy  squall  came  on 
which  split  the  mainsail,  and  a  little  before  four  the  staysail  shared 
the  same  fate.  Towards  the  morning  the  weather  was  more  mod- 
erate, accompanied  with  rain.  Shortly  after  eight  the  wind  sud- 
denly veered  to  W.  N.  W.  and  blew  strong.  Set  the  close-reefed 
foresail,  and  furled  the  other  sails,  steering  S.  S.  W.  Noon,  more 
moderate.  Latitude  observed  70"  23'  N.  The  remainder  of  the 
day  was  fine. 

Friday,  1st  Sept.  Our  stock  of  wood  and  water  being  expended, 
we  hauled  towards  the  land  and  made  all  sail ;  but  as  we  drew  in, 
the  wind  gradually  decreased  in  strength,  and  before  we  obtained 


M 


^  *i 


l\i\ 


,  ifi 


\^n 

■■'J 

' 'u 

'  y 

^  1 

.  i  . 

k 

n 


# 


«*:- 


.1 . 


•^7^ 


872 


VOYAGE  TO  TH£  PACIFIC 


[Sept. 


)i 


r 


ihe  shore,  on  tliat  part  w  here  the  higli  land  recedes  from  the  mast. 
The  boat  was  soon  despatched  to  procure  what  we  wanted  ;  hut  in 
our  thirsty  moments  we  did  not  perceive  that  the  pool  from  which 
we  procured  the  water  was  brackish ;  having  however  filled  our 
casks  with  it,  and  obtained  some  fuel,  wc  again  put  to  sea,  with  tlm 
wind  from  the  southward. 

Saturday,  2d  Sept.  Working  along-shore.  Noon  calm  and  tinp. 
Sent  the  boat  on  shore  to  get  a  supply  of  better  water.  Found  nil 
the  pools  near  the  beach  very  brackish  ;  from  which  we  concluded 
that  the  recent  westerly  gales  had  thrown  the  surf  so  high  that  it 
became  mingled  with  the  water  of  the  lakes,  and  we  determined  to 
have  recourse  to  the  first  running  stream  we  should  come  to.  About 
two  the  wind  again  came  from  the  southward,  and  at  four  wc  had 
every  prospect  of  a  gale  from  that  quarter.  It  therefore  became 
necessary  to  carry  a  heavy  press  of  sail  all  night  to  obtain  an  anchor- 
age as  near  Capo  Lisburn  as  possible,  so  that  in  th^;   event  of  the 

w'luA  shifting  to  the  wootward  wo  might  bc  able    tO   gCt    OUt  of  the 

bay. 

On  Sunday,  as  had  been  anticipated,  it  blew  a  strong  gale,  Imt 
the  boat  made  good  weather  of  it  until  eight  p.  m.,  when  the  bow- 
sprit broke,  and  obliged  us  to  anchor :  Cape  Lisburn  W.  N.  W.  six 
leagues.  Strong  gales,  with  heavy  gusts  of  wind  off  the  land  con- 
tinued until  four  p.  m.,  at  which  time  the  weather  being  more  mod- 
erate, we  weighed  under  close-reefed  sails,  and  stood  towards  the 
cape,  Mr.  Elson  wishing  to  be  near  an  entrance  to  a  lake  which  was 
situated  a  mile  or  two  east  of  Cape  Lisburn,  in  which  he  thought 
the  boat  might  find  shelter,  should  it  blow  hard  from  the  westward. 
On  arriving  at  this  spot,  we  found,  to  our  surprise,  that  the  entrance 
which  Mr.  Elson  had  sounded  and  examined  in  the  barge's  little  boat 
was  quite  filled  up,  and  that  there  was  not  the  slightest  appearance 
of  there  ever  having  been  one.  In  the  evening  the  wind  became 
light  and  variable.     Anchored — the  cape  W.  S.  W.  four  miles. 

Monday,  4th  Sept.  It  again  blew  strong  from  the  southward, 
and  at  nine  \.  m.  the  wind  increased  so  much  as  obliged  us  to  let  go 
another  anchor  to  prevent  being  driven  to  sea.  In  the  afternoon  il 
again  relaxed,  but  by  midnight  resumed  its  former  violence. 

Tuesday,  5th  Sept.  The  wind  somewhat  subsiding  this  morn- 
ing, completed  our  wood  and  water.  Whilst  thus  employed,  a  na- 
tive came  over  the  hills  and  trafficked  with  us.  Afterwards  he  stole 
from  one  of  the  crew  some  tobacco,  and  made  off.  The  theft  was 
not  discovered  until  he  was  a  long  way  distant  and  running,  being 
evidently  aware  of  the  crime  he  had  committed.  At  noon  abaidar 
with  eleven  natives  came  round  the  cape  and  visited  us.  The  wind 
continued  strong  from  the  southward  ;  but  being  anxious  to  proceed, 
as  our  provisions  were  beginning  to  grow  short,  weighed  and  stood 


^ 


[did.] 


AND  BKERlNo's  ITRAIT. 


273 


towards  the  cape  under  the  foresail  and  staj'sail  only.  At  two  wo 
jot  within  tiic  influence  of  the  variable  winds,  occasioned  by  the 
steep  and  high  land  of  the  cape.  The  bubble  and  violent  agitation 
of  the  sea  exceeded  any  idea  of  the  kind  we  had  formed,  and  broke 
over  the  boat  in  every  direction.  We  had  no  method  of  extrica- 
ting her.  The  gusts  of  wind  that  came  from  every  quarter  lasting 
but  a  moment,  left  us  no  prospect  of  getting  clear.  We  were  at 
this  time  about  two  miles  from  the  Irnd.  The  wind  inshore  of  us 
blew  with  astonishing  violence ;  the  eddies  from  the  hills  making 
whirlwinds  which  carried  up  the  spray  equal  in  height  to  the  moun- 
tain. However,  by  four  p.  m.,  what  with  a  slight  current,  and  ta- 
king advantage  of  every  flaw,  we  gained  an  offing  of  four  miles,  and, 
to  prevent  being  set  farther  to  the  noiihward,  anchored  : — a  heavy 
seaninning,  but  little  wind.  We  had  not  been  more  than  half  an 
hour  in  this  situation  when  it  blew  again  from  the  same  point  with 
redoubled  violence.  With  some  difficulty  we  lifted  cur  a-^  '"  or  and 
made  sail  in  for  the  land.  As  we  approached  it,  the  gusts  ca>  \'  very 
strong  off  the  hills,  notwithstanding  which  we  carried  a  press  of  sail 
toiegain  an  anchorage.  For  an  hour  and  a  half  we  w'"re  literally 
sailing  through  a  sea  of  spray.  At  six,  having  closed  \r  jU  with  the 
land,  we  anchored  and  rode  out  the  gale.  This  evening  Mr.  Elson 
put  the  crew  ):>  lalf  an  allowance  of  provisions. 

Wednesday,  6th  Sept.  Early  in  the  morning  we  observed  an 
alterbiA>n  in  the  weather.  The  clouds  collecting  fast  from  the  N. 
yf.  led  us  to  expect  the  wind  from  that  quarter.  At  ten  a.  m.,  the 
wind  becoming  variable  and  moderate,  weighed,  and  by  three  in  the 
afternoon,  to  our  inexpressible  joy,  got  round  the  windy  promontory 
of  Cape  Lisburn.  The  crew  were  again  put  on  their  former  allow- 
ance ;  and  we  made  all  sail,  with  an  increasing  breeze,  to  the  south- 
ward. Passing  the  cape,  we  observed  five  baidars  hauled  up  and 
one  tent,  but  saw  few  of  the  natives.  It  had  been  Mr.  Elson's  in- 
tention to  look  into  the  bight  on  the  northern  side  of  Point  Hope ; 
but  the  sea  was  so  high  and  the  weather  so  threatening  that  we  kept 
well  off,  in  order  to  weather  the  point.  We  noticed  the  water, 
whilst  off  Marryat  Creek,  to  be  of  a  very  muddy  colour,  as  if  some 
river  discharged  itself  there.  By  nine  p.  m.  we  rounded  the  point 
and  steered  S.  S.  E.,  to  have  a  good  offing  in  case  the  wind  should 
again  come  from  the  westward. 

Thursday,  7th  Sept.  The  weather  seemed  determined  to  per- 
secute us  to  the  last.  The  wind  strengthened  to  a  gale,  and  raised 
a  short,  high,  dangerous  sea.  We  hauled  in  for  the  land  as  much 
as  it  would  allow.  At  nine  a.  m.  it  blew  extremely  hard  ;  and,  con- 
sidering it  dangerous  to  scud,  rounded  to  on  the  larboard  tack,  took 
in  the  foresail,  and  set  balanced-reefed  mainsail  and  storm-jib. 
Found  the  boat  behave  uncommonly  well  and  continue  tolerably 

35 


A  > 


n 


.' 


tl 


I  Jnp.imum  m 


^^'^i 


r 


i  *? 


I  '^ 


M 


'V'^ 


■>    i| 


274 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


h'^ept. 


dry.  At  noon  our  latitude  was  67°  19'  N.  In  the  afternoon  itniotl- 
erated  and  we  made  sail  in  for  the  land.  At  four  p.  m.  saw  Cape 
Mulgrave  on  the  weather-bow,  and  altered  our  course  for  Kotzebue 
Sound.  The  wind  dying  away  left  us  at  midnight,  becalmed  a  few 
miles  from  Cape  Krusenstern. 

Friday,  8th.  After  a  few  hours'  calm,  a  breeze  came  from  the 
S.  E.,  and  we  worked  along  shore.  In  the  forenoon  several  bai- 
dars  came  off  to  us  We  procured  in  exchange  for  a  few  beads,  a 
large  quantity  of  salmon,  in  hopes  we  should  be  able  to  keep  enough 
to  supply  the  ship.  While  sailing  along  the  land,  many  more  of 
these  boats  came  off;  but  on  waving  them  to  return,  they  left  us  un- 
molested. Wo  saw  immense  quantities  of  fish  drying  on  shore,  and 
concluded  thai  the  natives  assembled  at  this  inlet  to  lay  in  tlieir 
winter  stock. 

Saturday,  9th.  Owing  to  the  light  winds,  we  made  but  small 
progress  during  the  night,  and  this  morning  were  ofl'  Hotliam  Inlet. 
At  eleven  anchored.  Sent  the  boat  on  shore  to  obtain  wood  and 
water.  Noon,  the  latitude  observed  (with  false  horizon)  was  CG" 
58'  N.  The  spot  abreast  where  we  anchored  had,  when  Mr.  El- 
son  visited  this  inlet  before,  been  the  site  of  an  Esquimaux  village; 
but  there  was  not  a  single  tent  left.  In  the  evening  we  weighed 
from  here,  and  the  next  morning  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  the  ship 
at  anchor  off  Chamisso  Island,  and  the  gratification  to  find  all  on 
board  of  her  well. 

(Signed)  William  Smyth, 

Mate  of  H.  M.  S.  Blossom. 

By  this  expedition  about  seventy  miles  of  coast,  in  addition  to 
those  discovered  by  the  Blossom — making  in  the  whole  12G  miles 
— have  been  added  to  the  geography  of  th<3  polar  regions,  and  the 
distance  between  Captain  Franklin's  discoveries  and  our  own  lias 
been  brought  within  so  small  a  compass  as  to  leave  very  little  room 
for  further  speculation  on  the  northern  limits  of  the  continent  of 
America.  The  actual  distance  left  unexplored  is  thus  reduced  to 
146  miles,  and  there  is  much  reason  to  believe,  from  the  state  of  the 
sea  about  Point  Barrow,  and  along  that  part  of  the  coast  whicliwas 
explored  by  Captain  Franklin,  that  the  navigation  of  the  remain- 
ing portion  of  unknown  coast  in  boats  is  by  no  means  a  hopeless 
project. 

Having  now  the  assistance  of  the  barge,  I  embarked  in  her  to 
examine  narrowly  the  shores  of  Kotzebue  Sound.  Proceeding  to 
survey  the  head  of  Escholtz  Bay,  shallow  water  obliged  the  boat  to 
anchor  off  Elephant  Point,  where  I  left  Mr.  Collie  with  a  party  to 
examine  again  the  cliffs  in  which  the  fossils  and  ice  formation  had 
been  seen  by  Kotzebue,  and  proceeded  to  the  head  of  the  bay  in  a 


t:' 


v-i- 


IP 


■HP 


1826.] 


AND    BEERING'iJ    STIIAIT. 


275 


small  boat.  We  landed  upon  a  flat  muddy  beach,  and  were  obliged 
to  wade  a  quarter  of  a  mile  before  we  could  reach  a  cliff  for  the 
purpose  of  having  a  view  of  tlie  surrounding  country.  Having 
gained  its  summit,  we  were  gratified  by  the  discovery  of  a  large 
river  coming  from  the  southward,  and  passing  between  our  station 
and  a  range  of  hills.  At  a  few  miles  distance  tlic  river  passed  be- 
tween rocky  cliffs,  whence  the  land  on  either  side  became  hilly,  and 
interrupted  our  further  view  of  its  course.  The  width  of  the  river 
was  about  a  mile  and  a  half;  but  this  space  was  broken  into  narrow 
and  intricate  channels  by  banks — some  dry,  and  others  partly  so. 
Tlie  stream  passed  rapidly  between  them,  and  at  an  earlier  period 
of  the  season  a  considerajjle  body  of  water  must  be  poured  into  the 
sound ;  though,  from  the  comparative  width  of  the  channels,  the 
current  in  the  latter  is  not  much  felt. 

The  shore  around  us  was  flat,  broken  by  several  lakes,  in  which 
there  were  a  great  many  wildfowl.  The  cliff  we  had  ascended  was 
composed  of  a  bluish  mud  and  clay,  and  was  full  of  deep  chasms 
lying  in  a  direction  parallel  with  the  front  of  the  eminence.  In  ap- 
pearance this  hill  was  similar  to  that  at  Elephant  Point,  which  was 
said  to  contain  fossils  ;  but  there  were  none  seen  here,  though  the 
earth,  in  parts,  had  a  disagreeable  smell,  similar  to  that  which  was 
supposed  to  proceed  from  the  decayed  animal  substances  in  the  cliff 
near  Elephant  Point. 

Returning  from  this  river,  we  were  joined  by  three  caiacs  from 
some  tents  near  us,  and  four  from  the  river,  who  were  very  troub- 
lesome, pestering  us  for  taiooc/c,  and  receiving  the  little  we  had  to 
fjve  them  in  the  most  ungracious  manner,  without  offering  any 
return. 

I  found  Mr.  Collie  had  been  successful  in  his  search  among  the 
clifts  at  Elephant  Point,  and  had  discovered  several  bones  and  grind- 
ers of  elephants  and  other  animals  in  a  fossil  state.  Associating 
these  two  discoveries,  I  bestowed  the  name  of  EKphant  upon  the 
point,  to  mark  its  vicinity  to  the  place  where  the  fossils  were  found  ; 
and  upon  the  river  that  of  Buckland,  in  compliment  to  Dr.  Buck- 
land,  the  professor  of  geology  at  Oxford,  to  whom  I  am  much  in- 
debted for  the  above  mentioned  description  of  the  fossils. 

The  cliff  in  which  these  fossils  appear  to  have  been  imbedded  is 
part  of  the  range  in  which  the  ice  formation  was  seen  in  July. 
During  our  absence  (a  space  of  five  weeks)  we  found  that  the  edge 
of  the  cliff  in  one  place  had  broken  away  four  feet,  and  in  another 
two  feet  and  a  half,  and  a  further  portion  of  it  was  on  the  eve  of 
being  precipitated  upon  the  beach.  In  some  places  where  the  icy 
shields  had  adhered  to  the  cliff  nothing  now  remained,  and  frozen 
earth  formed  the  front  of  the  cliff.  By  cutting  through  those  parts 
of  the  ice  which  were  still  attached,  the  mud  in  a  frozen  state  pre- 


y 


>! 


•'.; 


',i 


^ 


'^'s^ 


I 


if 


276 


TOYAGK  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[^ept. 


sented  itself  as  before,  and  confirmed  our  previous  opinion  of  the 
nature  of  the  clift'  Without  putting  it  to  this  test,  appearances 
might  well  have  led  to  the  conclusion  come  to  by  Kotzebue  and  M. 
Escholtz ;  more  especially  if  it  happened  to  be  visited  early  in  the 
summer,  and  in  a  season  less  favourable  than  that  in  which  we  view- 
ed  it.  The  earth,  which  is  fast  falling  away  from  the  cliffs — not  in 
this  place  only,  but  in  all  parts  of  the  bay — is  carried  away  by  the 
tide ;  and  throughout  the  summer  there  must  be  a  tendency  to  di- 
minish the  depth  of  the  water,  which  at  no  very  distant  period  will 
probably  leave  it  navigable  only  by  boats.  It  is  now  so  shallow  otf 
the  ice  cliffs,  that  a  bank  dries  at  two  miles,  distance  from  the  shore ; 
and  it  is  only  r.t  the  shingly  points  which  occur  opposite  the  ravines 
that  a  convenient  landing  can  be  effected  with  small  boats.* 

In  consequence  of  this  shallow  water  there  was  much  difficulty 
in  embarking  the  fossils,  the  tusks  in  particular,  the  largest  of  which 
weighed  IGOlbs.,  and  it  took  us  the  greater  part  of  the  night  to  ac- 
complish it.  In  our  way  on  board  we  met  several  native  caiacs, 
and  had  an  exhibition  of  one  of  the  Esquimaux  in  throwing  his  dart, 
which  he  placed  in  a  slip,  a  small  wooden  instrument  about  a  foot  in 
length,  with  a  hole  cut  in  the  end  to  receive  the  forefinger,  and  a 
notch  for  the  thumb.  The  stick  being  thus  grasped,  the  dart  was 
laid  along  a  groove  in  the  slip,  and  embraced  by  the  middle  finger 
and  thumb.  The  man  next  propelled  his  caiac  with  speed  in  order 
to  communicate  greater  velocity  to  the  dart,  and  then  whirled  it 
through  the  air  to  a  considerable  distance.  As  there  was  no  mark, 
we  could  not  judge  of  his  skill  in  taking  aim.  His  party  lived  a 
long  distance  up  Buckland  river,  and  were  acquuinted  with  the  musk 
ox,  which  I  am  the  more  particular  in  remarking,  as  we  had  never 
seen  that  animal  on  the  coast. 

About  eight  o'clock  at  night  we  had  a  brilliant  display  of  the  au- 
rora borealis,  a  phenomenon  of  the  heavens  so  beautiful  that  it  has 
been  justly  thought  to  surpass  all  description. 

In  our  return  to  the  ship  to  deposit  the  fossils,  a  calm  obliged  us 
to  anchor  on  the  north  side  of  the  bay,  where  we  landed  with  diffi- 
culty, in  consequence  of  the  shallowness  of  the  beach,  and  of  seve- 
ral ridges  of  sand  thrown  up  parallel  with  it,  too  near  the  surface  for 
the  boat  to  pass  over,  and  with  channels  of  water  between  them  too 
deep  to  wade  through  without  getting  completely  wet.  The  coun- 
try abounded  in  lakes,  in  which  were  many  wild  ducks,  geese,  teal, 
and  widgeon  ;  and  was  of  the  same  swampy  nature  before  describ- 
ed :  it  was  covered  with  moss,  and  occasionally  by  low  bushes  of 

♦  This  difficulty  of  approaching  the  shore,  even  in  a  boat,  will,  I  trust,  convince 
the  reader  of  the  impracticability  of  trying  the  effect  of  a  cannon  shot  upon  the  mud 
cliff  vith  a  view  of  bringing  down  some  part  of  its  surface,  as  has  been  suggested 
since  the  publication  of  the  quarto  edition. 


\. 


1926.] 


AND  BEERINQ  S  STRAIT. 


277 


Vii  ;i|'i. 


juniper,  cranberry,  whortleberry,  and  cloudberry.  Near  this  spot, 
two  days  before,  we  saw  a  herd  of  eleven  reindeer,  and  shot  a  musk 

rat. 
Hence  westward,  to  the  neck  of  Choris  Peninsula,  the  shore  was 

difficult  of  access,  on  account  of  long  muddy  flats  extending  into  the 
the  bay,  and  at  low  water  drying  in  some  places  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
from  the  beach. 

Bad  weather  and  the  duties  of  the  ship  prevented  my  resuming 
the  examination  of  the  sound  until  the  20th,  when  we  ran  across  in 
the  barge  to  Spafarief  Bay,  and  explored  the  coast  from  thence  to 
the  westward  ;  passing  close  along  the  beach,  anchoring  at  night, 
and  landing  occasionally  during  the  day  for  observations,  and  to  ob- 
tain information  of  the  nature  of  the  country. 

This  part  of  the  sound  appeared  to  have  so  few  temptations  to  the 
Esquimaux,  that  we  saw  only  two  parties  upon  it ;  and  one  of  these, 
by  having  their  dogs  harnessed  in  the  boat,  appeared  to  be  only  on 
an  excursion:  the  other  was  upon  Cape  Deceit,  a  bold  promontory, 
with  a  conspicuous  rock  off  it,  so  named  by  Captain  Kotzebue.  At 
two  places  where  we  landed  there  were  some  deserted  yourts,  not 
worthy  of  description ;  and  at  the  mouth  of  two  rivers  in  the  first 
and  second  bays  to  the  eastward  of  Cape  Deceit,  there  were  several 
spars  and  logs  of  drift-wood,  placed  erect,  which  showed  that  the  na- 
tives had  occupied  these  stations  for  catching  fish,  but  the_y  were  now 
all  deserted.  Both  these  rivers  had  bars  across  the  entrances,  upon 
which  the  sea  broke,  so  as  to  prevent  a  boat  from  entering  them. 

The  land  on  the  south  side  of  the  sound,  as  far  as  the  Bay  of  Good 
Hope,  !C  higher,  more  rocky,  and  of  a  bolder  character  than  the  op- 
posite shore,  though  it  still  resembles  it  in  its  swampy  superficial 
covering,  and  in  the  occurrence  of  lakes  wherever  the  land  is  flat. 
Under  water  also,  it  has  a  bolder  character  than  the  northern  side, 
and  has  generally  soundings  of  four  and  five  fathoms  quite  close  to 
the  promontories.  There  are  two  or  three  places  under  these  head- 
lands which,  in  case  of  necessity,  will  afibrd  shelter  ta  boats,  but 
each  with  a  particular  wind  only ;  and  in  resorting  thither  the  direc- 
tion of  the  wind  and  the  side  cf  the  promontory  must  be  taken  into 
consideration. 

In  a  geological  point  of  view  this  part  of  the  coast  is  interesting, 
as  being  the  only  place  in  the  sound  where  volcanic  rocks  occurred. 
Near  the  second  promontory,  to  the  eastward  of  Cape  Deceit,  we 
found  slaty  limestone,  having  scales  of  talc  between  the  layers ;  and 
in  those  parts  of  the  cliflf  which  were  most  fallen  down  a  talcaceous 
slate,  with  thin  layers  of  limestone,  and  where  the  rocks  were  more 
abrupt,  limegtone  of  a  more  compact  nature.  In  this  cliff  there  was 
also  an  alum  slate  of  a  dark  bluish  colour.  We  could  not  land  at 
the  next  cliff,  but,  on  a  close  view  of  the  rock,  conjectured  it  to  con- 


'I  ! 


*l  -■ 


;    >■■ 


t 


H 


\  .f. 


fit. 


If 


1 1 -J 


i 


:^ii 


,TTJ 


iff  f 
I'  ^1*4  <  ,6'  ' 


278  VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC  [Sept. 

sist  of  compact  limestone,  dipping  to  the  E.  N.  E.  at  an  angle  of 
30°.  Cape  Deceit,  the  next  headland,  appeared  to  be  compact 
limestone  also,  in  large  angular  blocks,  devoid  of  any  distinct  strata- 
fication.  Proceeding  on  to  Gullhead,  which  is  a  narrow  rocky  pe- 
ninsula,  stretching  a  mile  into  the  sea,  we  found  it  chiefly  composed 
of  slaty  limestone,  of  a  blackish  and  grayish  colour,  containing  par- 
tides  of  talc  in  larger  or  smaller  quantities,  as  it  was  elevated  above 
or  on  a  level  with  the  sea,  but  without  any  visible  stratafication, 
A  bed  of  slate  to  the  eastward  of  the  promontory,  bore  strong 
marks  of  its  having  been  subjected  to  the  action  of  fire.  The  slaty 
limestone  of  the  clifFon  the  eastern  side  of  this,  dips  at  m  angle  of 
65°  to  the  eastward.  The  neck  or  isthmus  is  either  unstratafied,or 
its  beds  are  perpendicular ;  beyond  it  the  strata  dip  to  the  west  at 
nearly  a  right  angle. 

Eight  miles  farther  along  the  coast,  we  landed  at  the  first  of  a 
series  of  low  points,  with  small  bays  between  them,  which  continue 
about  fou)  miles,  beyond  which  the  coast  assumes  a  totally  different 
character.  On  these  low  points,  as  well  as  upon  the  shores  of  the 
bay,  we  were  surprised  to  find  large  blocks  of  porous  vesicular  lava 
and  more  compact  la  va ,  containing  portions  of  olivine.  These  blocks 
are  accumulated  in  much  larger  quantities  on  the  points,  and  in  the 
bays  form  reefs  off  the  coast  which  are  dangerous  to  boats  passins; 
close  along  the  shore.  The  country  here  slopes  gradually  from 
some  hills  to  the  beach,  and  is  so  well  overgrown  that  we  could  not 
examine  its  substrata  ;  but  they  do  not  in  outward  formation  ex- 
hibit any  indication  of  volcanic  ;.gency. 

Further  on  we  landed  in  a  small  bay  formed  by  a  narrow  wa'i  of 
volcanic  stones — some  wholly  above  water,  others  only  slightly  im- 
mersed. These  reefs  were  opposite  a  low  mud  cliff,  similar  in  its 
nature  to  those  in  which  the  fossils  were  found  in  Escholtz  Bay; 
and  though  they  did  not  furnish  any  bones,  yet  it  is  remarkable  that 
a  pie  "-e  of  a  tusk  was  picked  upon  the  beach  near  them.  It  must, 
however,  be  observed  that  its  edges  were  rounded  off  by  the  surf,  to 
which  it  had  been  a  long  time  exposed  ;  and  it  might  have  been 
either  washed  up  from  some  other  place,  or  have  been  left  on  the 
beach  by  the  natives. 

To  the  westward  of  these  rocky  projections  the  coast  is  low, 
swampy,  and  intersected  by  lakes  and  rivers.  The  rounded  hills 
which  thus  far  bound  the  horizon  of  the  sound  to  the  southward  here 
branch  off  inland,  and  a  distant  range  of  a  totally  different  character 
rises  over  the  vast  plain  that  extends  to  Cape  Espenburg,  and  forms 
the  whole  of  the  western  side  of  the  sound.  In  the  angle  which  it 
makes,  we  discovert  d  a  river,  which,  we  were  informed  by  a  few 
natives  who  came  off  to  us  in  a  miserable  baidar,  with  dogs  looking 
as  unhappy  as  themselves,  extended  inland  five  days'  journey  for 


■'  f 


0         .%»-4. 


"*^'i. 


1826.] 


AND  BEERINO'S  STRAIT. 


279 


"^      f^ 


.  E.  at  an  angle  of 
red  to  be  compact 
■  any  distinct  strata- 
1  narrow  rocky  pe- 
it  chiefly  composed 
Dur,  containing  par- 
was  elevated  above 
isible  stratafication. 
ontory,  bore  strong 
of  fire.  The  slaty 
,  dips  at  m  angle  of 
ither  unstratafied,  or 
I  dip  to  the  west  at 

led  at  the  first  of  a 
em,  which  continue 
;s  a  totally  difTerent 
)ii  the  shores  of  the 
orous  vesicular  lava 
vine.  These  blocks 
le  points,  and  in  the 
3US  to  boats  passing 
opes  gradually  from 
vn  that  we  could  not 
tward  formation  ex- 


the  coast  is  low. 
The  rounded  hills 
0  the  southward  here 

different  character 
spenburg,  and  forms 

the  angle  which  it 
informed  by  a  few 
',  with  dogs  looking 
e  days'  journey  for 


their  baidars ;  but  on  examination  it  proved  so  shallow  at  the  mouth, 
that  even  the  gig  could  not  enter  it.  A  few  miles  to  the  north-west- 
ward of  this  river,  we  arrived  off  the  inlet  which  Captain  Kotzebue 
meditated  to  explore  in  baidars,  and  was  very  sanguine  that  it  would 
lead  to  some  great  inland  discovery.  We  consequently  approached 
the  spot  with  interest;  and  as  soon  as  the  mud  capes  through  which 
the  river  has  made  its  way  to  the  ocean  opened  to  our  view,  bore 
up,  with  the  intention  of  sailing  into  the  inlet,  which  runs  in  a  west- 
erly direction ;  but  we  were  here  again  obliged  to  desist,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  shallowness  of  the  water.  At  two  miles  and  more 
from  the  shore,  we  had  less  than  a  fathom  water ;  and  we  observed 
the  sea  breaking  heavily  upon  a  bank  which  extended  from  shore  to 
shore  across  the  mouth  of  the  inlet.  Thinking,  however,  these 
breakers  might  be  occasioned  by  the  overfall  of  the  tide,  the  gig  was 
despatched  to  endeavour  to  effect  a  passage  through  them  ;  but  the 
ivater  shoaling  gradually,  she  could  not  approach  within  even  a 
cable's  length  of  the  breakers.  At  the  top  of  the  tide,  probably, 
when  the  water  is  smooth,  small  boats  may  enter  the  inlet ;  but  if 
the  bar  is  attempted  under  other  circumstances,  the  crew  will  prob- 
ably be  subjected  to  a  similar  ducking  to  that  which  Captai#  Kot- 
zebue himself  experienced  in  repassing  it.  Seeing  these  difficulties 
I  did  not  deem  any  further  examination  necessary  ;  and  as  it  could 
never  lead  to  any  useful  purpose  of  navigation,  I  did  not  even  con- 
template a  return  to  it  under  more  favourable  circumstances.  The 
inlet  occurs  in  a  vast  plain  of  low  ground,  bounded  on  the  north  by 
Cape  Espenburg,  on  the  east  by  the  Bay  of  Good  Hope,  on  the 
west  by  Beering's  Strait,  and  on  the  south  by  ranges  of  mountains 
There  are  also  several  lakes  and  creeks  in  the  plain,  some  of  which 
may  probably  communicate  with  the  inlet ;  or  they  may  all,  Schis- 
niareff  Inlet  included,  be  the  mouths  of  a  large  river.  It  is,  howev- 
er, very  improbable  that  there  should  be  any  direct  communication 
between  these  two  inlets,  as  the  natives  would,  in  that  case,  have  in- 
fonned  us  of  it  when  they  drew  their  chart  of  the  sound. 

While  we  were  off  here,  we  noticed  a  parhelion  so  bright  that  it 
nas  difficult  to  distinguish  it  from  the  sun  ;  a  circumstance  the  more  de- 
serving of  remark,  in  consequence  of  the  naturalist  of  Kotzebue's 
expedition  having  observed  that  this  phenomenon  is  very  rare  in  these 
seas,  and  that  a  Russian  grown  old  in  the  Aleutean  Islands  never 
saw  it  n  .  than  once.  Quitting  this  inlet,  we  directed  our  course 
along  the  land  toward  Cape  Espenburg,  and  found  that  the  bar  was 
not  confined  to  the  mouth  of  the  inlet  alone,  but  extended  the  whole 
way  to  the  cape,  and  was  not  passable  in  any  part ;  having  tried  in- 
effectually in  those  places  which  afforded  the  best  prospect  of  suc- 
cess. 

On  landing  at  Cape  Espenburg,  we  found  that  the  sea  penetrated 


,  I 


V    '/ 


)      't--* 


\ 


n ', 


(* 


..')' 


280 


VOYAOS  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


'\i 


Kfeii 


I 


[Sept. 

to  the  southward  of  it,  formed  it  into  a  narrow  strip  of  land,  upon 
which  were  gome  high  sand-hills.  The  point  had  a  great  many 
poles  placed  erect  upon  it,  and  had  evidently  been  the  residence  of 
the  Esquimaux  ;  but  it  was  now  entirely  deserted.  Near  these  poles 
there  were  several  huts  and  native  burial-places,  in  which  the  bodies 
were  disposed  in  a  very  different  manner  to  that  practised  by  the 
eastern  Esquimaux.  The  corpse  was  here  enclosed  in  a  sort  of 
coffin  formed  of  loose  planks,  and  placed  upon  a  platform  of  drift- 
wood,  covered  over  with  a  board  and  several  spars,  which  were  kept 
in  their  places  by  poles  driven  into  the  ground  in  a  slanting  direc- 
tion, with  their  ends  crossing  each  other  over  the  pile.  The  body 
was  found  lying  with  the  head  to  the  westward,  and  had  been  inter- 
red in  a  double  dress,  the  under  one  made  of  the  skins  of  eider- 
drakes,  and  the  upper  one  of  those  of  reindeer.  It  had  been  ex- 
posed a  considerable  time,  as  the  skeleton  only  was  left ;  but  enoudi 
of  the  dress  remained  to  show  the  manner  in  which  the  body  had 
been  clothed. 

The  beach  was  in  a  great  measu'-e  composed  of  dark-coloured 
volcanic  sand,  and  was  strewed  witli  dead  shells  of  the  cardiuin,  Ve- 
nus, firbo,  murex,  solen,  trochus,  mytilus,  mya,  lepas,  anu  t^lhna 
genera :  there  were  also  some  large  asterias.  The  sand-hill^  were 
partly  covered  with  elymus  grass,  the  vaccinium  vitis  idaea  empe- 
trum  nigrum,  and  some  shrubs,  while  the  carex  preferred  the  hollow 
moist  places  ;  the  rest  of  the  surface  was  occupied  by  lichens.  On 
the  border  of  the  lakes  there  were  several  curlew,  sanderlings,  and 
gulls ;  while  small  flocks  of  ptarmigan  alighted  upon  those  parts 
which  produced  berries.  A  red  fox  prowling  among  the  deserted 
huts  and  the  graves  was  the  only  quadi-uped  seen.  Nearly  the 
whole  of  the  day  was  passed  at  this  place  in  making  astronomical  ob- 
servations; after  which  we  embarked,  and  were  obliged  by  bad 
weather  to  return  to  the  ship. 

The  day  after  my  departure,  a  new  cutter,  which  had  been  built 
of  some  wood  of  the  porou-tree,  grown  upon  Otalieite,  was  com- 
pleted and  launched,  and  upon  trial  found  to  answer  under  canvas 
beyond  our  expectations,  doing  great  credit  to  Mr.  Garret,  the  car- 
penter, who  built  her  almost  entirely  himself.  I  placed  her  under 
the  charge  of  Lieutenant  Belcher,  who  was  afterwards  almost  daily 
employed  in  surveying. 

On  the  22nd  the  aurora  borealis  was  seen  in  the  W.  N.  W. ; 
from  which  quarter  it  passed  rapidly  to  the  N.  E.,  and  formed  a 
splendid  arch,  emitting  vivid  and  brilliantly  coloured  coruscation?. 

On  the  25th  the  wind,  which  had  blown  strong  from  the  northward 
the  day  before  changed  to  the  southward,  and  had  such  an  effect 
uponthe  tide  that  it  ebbed  twenty  hours  without  intermission. 

In  another  excursion  which  I  made  along  the  north  side  of  the 


[5epf. 


1826.] 


AND  BGERIWG  S  STRAIT, 


981 


■ip  of  land,  upon 
ad  a  great  many 
I  the  residence  of 
Near  these  poles 
1  which  the  bodies 
practised  by  the 
)sed  in  a  sort  of 
platform  of  drift- 
s,  which  were  kept 
a  slanting  direc- 
pile.     The  body 
,nd  had  been  inter- 
the  skins  of  eider- 
It  had  been  ex- 
ras  left ;  but  enough 
fhich  the  body  had 

id  of  dark-coloured 
of  the  cardium,  Ve- 

lepaSj  afiW  l^llina 
;'he  sand-hili3  were 
(1  vitis  idaea  empe- 
preferred  the  hollow 
led  by  lichens.  On 
w,  sanderiings,  and 
upon  those  parts 
mong  the  deserted 

seen.  Nearly  the 
ing  astronomical  ob- 
ere  obliged  by  bad 

hich  had  been  bulk 
talieite,  was  com- 
iswer  under  canvas 
r.  Garret,  the  car- 
II  placed  her  under 
Irwards  almost  daily 

intheW.N.W.; 

E.,  and  formed  a 
ared  coruscation?. 
[  from  the  northward 
[lad  such  an  effect 

intermission. 

north  side  of  the 


sound,  I  landed  at  a  cape  which  had  been  named  after  the  ship,  and 
had  the  satisfaction  of  examining  an  ice  formation  of  a  similar  na- 
ture to  that  in  Escholtz  Bay,  only  more  extensive  and  having  a  con- 
trary aspect.     The  ice  here,  instead  of  merely  fomiing  a  shield  to 
the  cliff,  was  imbedded  in  the  indentations  along  its  edge,  filling 
them  up  nearly  even  with  the  front.     A  quantity  of  fallen  earth  was 
accumulated  at  the  base  of  the  cliff,  which  uniting  with  the  earthy 
spaces  intervening  between  the  beds  of  ice,  might  lead  a  person  to 
iniagine  the  ice  formed  the  cliff,  and  supported  a  soil  two  or  three 
feet  thick,  part  of  which  appeared  to  have  been  precipitated  over  the 
brow.    But  on  examining  it  above,  the  ice  was  fouud  to  be  detach- 
ed from  the  cliff  at  the  back  of  it ;  and  in  a  few  instances  so  much 
so,  that  there  were  deep  chasms  between  the  two.     These  chasms 
are  no  doubt  widened  by  the  tendency  the  ice  must  have  towards 
the  edge  of  the  cliff ;  and  I  have  no  doubt  the  beds  of  ice  are  occa- 
sionally loosened,  and  fall  upon  the  beach,  where  if  they  become 
covered  with  the  earthy  materials  from  above,  and  perhaps  remain 
some  time  immured.      In  some  places  the  cliff  was  undermined, 
and  the  surface  in  general  was  very  rugged  ;  but  it  was  evident  in 
this,  as  in  the  former  instance,  that  the  ice  was  lodged  in  the  hollow 
places  in  the  cliff.  While  we  continued  here  we  had  an  example  of  the 
manner  in  which  the  face  of  the  cliff  might  obtain  an  icy  covering  sim- 
ilar to  that  in  Escholtz  Bay.     There  had  been  a  sharp  frost  during 
the  night,  which  froze  a  number  of  small  streams  that  were  trick- 
ling down  the  face  of  the  cliff,  and  cased  those  parts  of  it  with  a 
sheet  of  ice,  which,  if  the  oozings  from  the  cliff  and  the  freezing 
process  were  continued,  would  without  doubt  form  a  thick  coating 
to  it. 

Upon  the  beach,  under  the  cliffs,  there  was  an  abundance  of  drift 
birch  and  pine  wood,  among  which  there  was  a  fir-tree  three  feet  in 
diameter.  This  tree,  and  another,  which  by  the  appearance  of  its 
bark  had  been  recently  torn  up  by  the  roots,  had  been  washed  up 
since  our  visit  to  this  spot  in  July  ;  but  from  whence  they  came  we 
could  not  even  form  a  conjecture,  as  we  had  frequently  remarked 
the  absence  of  floating  timber,  both  in  the  sound  and  in  the  strait. 

We  found  some  natives  at  this  place  laying  out  their  nets  for  seals, 
who,  perceiving  we  were  about  to  take  up  our  quarters  near  them, 
struck  their  tents  expeditiously,  threw  every  thing  into  their  baid- 
ars,  to  which  they  harnessed  their  dogs,  and  drove  off  for  about  half 
a  mile,  where  they  encamped  again.  We  procured  from  them  about 
two  bushels  of  whortle  berries,  which  they  had  collected  for  their 
own  consumption,  and  learnt  that  they  had  been  unsuccessful  in 
fishing.  We  noticed  that  at  their  meals  they  stripped  their  dried 
fish  of  its  skin,  and  gave  it  to  the  women  and  children,  who  ate  it 
very  contentedly,  while  the  men  regaled  themselves  upon  the  flesh. 

36 


■*-.':; 


.  V] 


'■•  '' 


.•^. 


]y 


S82 


VOVAOE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Oct, 


During  the  night  we  had  a  brilliant  display  of  the  aurora  borealis, 
remarkable  for  its  masses  of  bright  light.  It  extended  from  N.  E. 
to  W.,  and  at  one  time  formed  tiiree  arches.  As  we  were  takin" 
our  departure  we  were  visited  by  a  baidar,  from  which  we  procured 
some  fine  fresh  salmon  and  trout.  The  coxswain  of  this  boat  wore 
unusually  large  labrets,  consisting  of  blue  glass  beads  fixed  upon 
circular  pieces  of  ivory,  a  full  inch  in  diameter.  He  drew  us  a  chart 
of  Hotham  Inlet,  which  resembled  one  that  had  been  traced  upon 
the  beach  by  some  natives  the  day  before  ;  both  of  which  represen- 
ted it  as  an  arm  of  the  sea  in  the  form  of  an  hour-glass,  which  was 
not  far  from  the  truth.  The  Esquimaux  seem  to  have  a  natural  tal- 
ent for  such  delineations ;  and  though  their  outlines  may  serve  no 
essential  purpose  of  navigation,  they  are  still  useful  in  pointing  out 
the  nature  of  a  place  that  has  not  been  visited :  an  information  which 
may  sometimes  save  a  useless  journey.  It  is,  however,  to  be  obser- 
ved, that  not  unfrequently  they  appear  to  trace  the  route  which  a 
boat  can  pursue,  rather  than  the  indentations  of  the  coast,  by  whicli 
rivers  and  bays  not  frequented  would  be  overlooked.  Such  charts 
are  further  useful  in  marking  the  dwellings  and  fishing  stations  of 
the  natives. 

From  hence  we  bore  away  to  examine  Hotham  Inlet,  and  found 
it  so  encumbered  with  shoals  that  it  was  necessary  to  run  seven 
miles  off  the  land  to  avoid  striking  upon  them  ;  it  had  but  one  small 
entrance,  so  very  narrow  and  intricate,  that  the  boats  grounded  re- 
peatedly in  pursuing  it.  In  the  middle  of  the  channel  there  were 
only  five  feet  water  at  half-flood ;  and  the  tide  ebbed  so  sfi-ong 
through  it,  that  the  boat  could  not  stem  it ;  and  as  there  was  bit  a 
small  part  of  the  coast  of  this  inlet  that  we  had  not  seen,  and  find- 
ing the  examination  of  it  would  be  attended  with  difficulty,  and 
would  occupy  a  long  time,  the  boats  did  not  ascend  it.  The  shoal 
which  is  off  the  entrance  has  no  good  land-marks  for  it ;  the  bear- 
ings from  its  extremity  in  two  fathoms  and  a  half  of  water  are  Cape 
Blossom,  S.  66°  40'  E.  (true);  Western  High  Mount,  N.  17°  30' 
W.  (true)  ;  and  the  west  extreme,  a  bluff  cape,  near  Cape  Krus- 
eastern,  N.  37°  0'  W.  (true.)  But  the  best  way  to  avoid  it  is  to  go 
about  directly  the  soundings  decrease  to  six  fathoms,  as  after  that 
depth  they  shoal  so  rapidly  to  two  fathoms  and  a  quarter  that  there 
is  scarcely  room  to  put  the  ship  round. 

On  the  1st  of  October  we  landed  upon  a  sandy  point  at  the  west- 
em  limit  of  the  inlet,  and  were  joined  by  a  few  Esquimaux  who 
had  their  tents  not  far  off  to  the  westward ;  they  had  communica- 
ted with  the  boat  two  months  before,  and  came  again  in  the  expec- 
tation of  getting  a  few  more  blue  beads  and  foreign  articles  for  some 
nets  and  fish.  They  immediately  recognised  such  of  the  officers  as 
they  had  seen  before,  and  were  delighted  at  meeting  them.    Some 


/'A 


1826.] 


AND    BEERINO  8    STRAIT. 


283 


of  the  beads  which  they  had  obtained  were  now  suspended  to  dif- 
ferent parts  of  their  dress,  in  the  same  manner  as  was  practised  by 
the  Esquimaux  of  Melville  Peninsula,  and  round  their  necks,  or 
were  made  into  bracelets.  They  corroborated  the  former  account 
of  the  inlet,  the  length  of  which  they  estimated  a  long  day's  pad- 
dle ;  our  observations  made  it  thirty-nine  miles.  At  the  back  of 
the  point  where  we  landed  there  was  another  inlet,  to  the  end  of 
which  they  said  their  baidars  could  aljo  go,  notwithstanding  we  saw 
a  bar  across  its  mouth  so  shallow  that  the  gulls  waded  over  from 
shore  to  shore.  Near  us,  there  was  a  burying  ground,  which,  in 
acklition  to  what  we  had  already  observed  at  Cape  Espenburg,  fur- 
nished several  examples  of  the  manner  in  which  this  tribe  of  natives 
dispose  of  their  dead.  In  some  instances  a  platform  was  construct- 
ed of  drift-wood,  raised  about  two  feet  and  a  quarter  from  t'  .  ground, 
upon  which  the  body  was  placed  with  its  head  to  the  westward,  and 
a  double  tent  of  drift-wood  erected  over  it ;  the  inner  one  with  spars 
about  seven  feet  long,  and  the  outer  one  with  some  that  were  three 
times  that  length.  They  were  placed  close  together,  and  at  first  no 
doubt  sufficiently  so  to  prevent  the  depredations  of  foxes  and  wolves  ; 
but  they  had  yielded  at  last ;  and  all  the  bodies,  and  even  the  hides 
that  covered  them,  had  suffered  by  these  rapacious  animals. 

In  these  tents  of  the  dead  there  were  no  coffins  or  planks,  as  at 
Cape  Espenburg ;  the  bodies  were  dressed  in  a  frock  made  of  eider- 
duck  skins,  with  one  of  deer-skin  over  it,  and  were  covered  with  a 
sea-horse  hide,  such  as  the  natives  use  for  their  baidars.  Suspen- 
ded to  the  poles,  and  on  the  ground  near  them,  were  several  Esqui- 
maux implements,  consisting  of  wooden  trays,  paddles,  and  a  tam- 
bourine, which,  we  were  informed,  as  well  as  signs  could  convey, 
were  placed  there  for  the  use  of  the  deceased,  who,  in  the  next 
world,  (pointing  to  the  western  sky)  ate  drank,  and  sang  songs. 
Having  no  interpreter,  this  was  all  the  information  I  could  obtain  ; 
but  the  custom  of  placing  such  implements  around  the  receptacles 
of  the  dead  is  not  unusual,  and  in  all  probability  the  Esquimaux  may 
believe  that  the  soul  has  enjoyments  in  the  next  world  similar  to 
those  which  constitute  happiness  in  this. 

The  people  whom  we  saw  here  were  very  inquisitive  about  our 
fire-arms,  and  to  satisfy  one  of  them  I  made  him  fire  off  a  musket, 
that  was  loaded  with  ball,  towards  a  large  tree  that  was  lying  upon 
the  beach.  The  explosion  and  the  recoil  which  succeeded  the  sim- 
ple operation  of  touching  the  trigger  so  alarmed  him,  that  he  turned 
pale  and  put  away  the  gun.  As  soon  as  his  fear  subsided  he  laugh- 
ed heartily,  as  did  all  his  party,  and  went  to  examine  the  wood  which 
was  found  to  be  perforated  by  the  ball,  and  afforded  them  a  fair 
specimen  of  the  capability  of  our  arms ;  but  he  could  not  be  pre- 
vailed upon  to  repeat  the  operation. 


'  I 


■ii 


\ 


/' 


f* 


■  \ 


_'1&lis 


Vii 


i<    'I 


'  '4> 


.•i 


284 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PICIFIC 


[Oct. 


They  had  some  skins  of  ravens  with  ihem,  upon  which  they 
place  a  high  price,  though  being  of  no  use  to  us,  they  did  not  find 
a  purchaser.  On  several  occasions  we  had  noticed  the  beaks  and 
claws  of  these  birds  attached  to  ornamental  bands  for  the  head  and 
waist,  and  they  were  evi<lently  considered  valuable.  On  our  return 
to  the  ship  we  fell  in  with  another  party  of  natives,  among  whom 
there  were  two  men  whose  appearance  and  conduct  again  led  us  to 
conclude  that  the  large  blue  glass  labrets  indicate('  a  superiority  of 
rank,  and  found,  as  before,  that  no  reasonable  offer  would  induce 
them  to  part  with  these  oroameDts. 

On  the  3rd,  we  reached  the  ship,  and  were  informed  that  she 
had  been  tisited  by  several  baidars  in  our  absence,  and  had  pro- 
cured from  them  a  quantity  of  dried  salmon,  which  was  afterwards 
served  to  the  ship's  company.  These  boats  were  the  last  that  vis- 
ited the  ship,  as  the  season  was  evidently  arrived  for  commencing 
their  preparations  for  winter.  About  this  time  we  had  sharp  frosts 
at  night ;  some  snow  fell ;  and  on  the  5th  all  the  lakes  on  sliore 
were  frozen.  The  bares  and  ptarmigan  were  quite  white,  and  all 
the  birds  had  quitted  their  abodes  in  the  rocks  to  seek  a  milder  at- 
mosphere. These  unequivocal  symptoms  of  the  approach  of  win- 
ter excited  great  anxiety  for  the  safety  of  the  land  expedition. 

On  the  7tli,  Mr.  Elson  went  up  Elscholtz  Bay  with  two  boats  for 
the  purpose  of  sounding  and  obtaining  further  information  of  Buck- 
land  River,  but  returned  on  the  10th,  without  having  been  able  to 
effect  it,  on  account  of  the  hostile  disposition  of  the  natives,  wliom 
he  met  in  the  bay.  When  the  small  boat  was  detached  from  tlie 
barge,  three  baidars  approached  her ;  and  their  crews,  consisting  of 
between  thirty  and  forty  men,  drew  their  knives  and  attempted  to 
board  her,  and,  on  the  whole,  behaved  in  so  daring  and  threatening 
a  manner,  that  Mr.EIson,  fearing  he  should  be  compelled  to  resort 
to  severe  measures,  if  he  proceeded  with  the  examination  of  the 
river,  desisted,  and  returned  to  the  ship.  This  was  the  first  instance 
of  any  decidedly  hostile  conduct  of  the  natives  in  the  sound,  whose 
behaviour  in  general  had  left  with  us  a  favourable  impression  of  the 
disposition  of  their  tribe.  The  barge  brought  us  down  a  valuable 
addition  to  our  collection  of  fossils,  the  cliff  having  broken  away 
considerably  since  the  first  specimens  were  obtained. 

On  the  8th,  we  had  the  misfortune  to  lose  one  of  the  marines, 
by  dysentery  and  general  inflammation  of  the  abdomen.  On  the 
10th,  having  selected  a  convenient  s{K>t  for  a  grave,  on  the  low  point 
of  Chamisso  Island,  his  body  was  interred  in  the  presence  of  almost 
all  his  shipmates,  and  a  stone  properly  inscribed  put  up  to  mark  the 
spot ;  but  the  earth  was  replaced  over  the  grave  as  evenly  as  possi- 
ble, in  order  that  no  appearance  of  excavation  might  remain  to  at- 
tract the  attention  of  the  natives. 


1--26.] 


AND  BEERINO  8  STRAIT. 


285 


We  had  hitherto  remained  in  the  sound,  in  the  expectation  of 
being  able  to  wait  till  the  end  of  October,  the  date  named  in  my 
instructions ;  but  the  great  change  that  had  recently  occurred  in  the 
atmosp'^Te,  the  departure  of  all  the  Esquimaux  for  their  winter 
habituiions,  the  migration  of  the  birds,  the  frozen  state  of  the  lakes, 
and  the  gradual  cooling  down  of  the  sea,  were  symptoms  of  approach- 
ing winter  too  apparent  to  be  disregarded,  and  made  it  evident  that 
the  time  was  not  far  distant  when  it  would  be  necessary  to  quit  the 
anchorage,  to  avoid  being  shut  up  by  the  young  ice.  On  every 
account  I  was  anxious  to  remain  until  the  above-mentioned  period  ; 
but  as  my  instructions  were  peremptory  in  desiring  me  not  to  incur 
the  risk  of  wintering,  it  was  incumbent  upon  me  seriously  to  consid- 
er how  late  the  ship  could  remain  without  encountering  that  risk 
By  quitting  the  rendezvous  earlier  than  had  been  agreed  upon,  the 
lives  of  Captain  Franklin's  party  might  be  involved  ;  by  remaining 
[oo  long,  those  of  my  own  ship's  company  would  be  placed  in  immi- 
nent hazard,  as  but  five  weeks'  provision  at  full  allowance  remained 
in  the  ship,  and  the  nearest  place  where  we  could  replenish  them 
was  upwards  of  2000  miles  distant.  Thus  circumstanced,  I  was 
desirous  of  having  the  advice  of  the  officers  of  the  ship  before  I  made 
up  my  own  mind,  and  accordingly  addressed  an  official  letter  to 
ihem,  requesting  they  would  take  every  circumstance  into  their  con- 
sideration, and  furnish  me  with  their  opinion  on  the  propriety  of  re- 
maining longer  in  these  seas. 

Their  answer,  which  I  received  the  next  day,  conveyed  an  unan- 
imous opinion  that  the  ship  could  not  continue  longer  at  her  present 
anchorage  without  incurring  the  risk  of  wintering,  and  suggested  her 
removal  to  the  entrance  of  the  sound,  where  the  majority  of  the 
officers  thought  she  might  remain  a  few  days  longer  ;  but  previous 
to  our  taking  up  our  station  there,  it  was  considered  advisable  that 
the  strait  should  be  ascertained  to  be  navigable,  lest  the  ice  should 
have  been  drifted  down  from  the  northward,  and  the  retreat  of  the 
ship  be  cut  off.  I  fully  concurred  in  with  them,  that  if  the  frost 
continued  the  ship  could  not  remain  at  her  anchorage  ;  but  as  there 
ffas  a  possibility  of  its  yielding,  I  resolved  to  wait  a  day  or  two  or 
longer  upon  the  chance,  determined,  if  it  did  not  give  way,  to  quit 
the  sound ;  and  in  the  event  of  Beering's  Strait  being  found  clear, 
to  return,  as  had  been  proposed,  and  to  wait  a  few  days  off  Cape 
Krusenstern,  in  the  hope  of  meeting  the  party.  Considering,  how- 
ever, the  lateness  of  the  season  and  the  long  nights,  there  did  not 
appear  to  be  much  chance  of  the  ship  being  able  to  maintain  an  ad- 
vantageous position  at  the  rr  juth  of  the  sound  ;  still,  as  I  was  un- 
willing to  relinquish  the  smallest  chance  of  falling  in  with  the  party, 
I  purposed  making  the  attempt.  In  so  doing,  however,  it  was  ne- 
cessary to  insure  our  departure  by  the  23rd  instant,  which  consider- 


i^ 


-wp- 


386 


VOYACE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Oct. 


ing  our  distance  from  any  new  supplies,  and  that  at  that  period  there 
would  be  but  nine  weeks'  provision  remaining  at  half  allowance,  was 
as  late  as  1  thought  it  prudent  to  continue. 

We  were  now  made  sensible  of  the  great  advantage  arising  from 
the  economical  system  that  had  been  adopted  at  the  Society  and 
Sandwich  Islands,  and  also  from  the  reduction  of  an  elevcntii  part 
of  the  ship's  company  at  Portsmouth,  without  which  the  provision 
before  this  period  would  have  been  wholly  expended,  as  the  allow, 
ance  from  the  time  of  leaving  Chili  had  been  reduced  as  low  as  it 
conveniently  could,  for  a  continuance,  consistent  with  the  strength 
of  the  ship's  company,  ivho  for  several  months  had  been  on  half  al- 
lowance. 

It  now  remained  for  me  to  consider  how  Captain  Franklin  could 
be  most  benefitted  in  the  event  of  his  party  arriving  after  our  depar- 
ture. It  was  evident  that  we  could  do  no  more  than  put  him  in 
possession  of  every  information  we  had  obtained,  and  leave  him  a 
temporary  supply  of  provisions  and  bartering  articles,  with  which  he 
could  procure  others  from  the  natives.  To  this  end  a  barrel  of 
flour  was  buried  for  him  upon  the  sandy  point  of  Chamisso,  a  place 
which,  from  the  nature  of  the  ground,  was  more  likely  to  escape 
observation  than  the  former  one,  where  the  newly  turned  turf  could 
not  be  concealed.  A  large  tin  case,  containing  beads  and  a  letter, 
was  deposited  with  it,  to  enable  him  to  purchase  provisions  from  the 
natives,  and  to  guide  his  conduct.  Ample  directions  for  finding 
these  were  both  cut  and  painted  on  the  rock  ;  and  to  call  the  atten- 
tion of  the  party  to  the  spot,  which  they  might  otherwise  pass,  see- 
ing the  ship  had  departed,  her  name  was  painted  in  very  large  let- 
ters on  the  cliffs  of  Puffm  Island,  accompanied  with  a  notice  of  her 
departure,  and  the  period  to  v.hich  she  had  remained  in  the  sound- 
Beneath  it  were  written  directions  for  finding  the  cask  of  flour,  and 
also  a  piece  of  drift-wood  which  was  deposited  in  a  hole  in  the  clifT, 
This  billet  had  been  purporsely  bored  and  charged  with  a  letter 
containing  all  the  useful  information  I  could  impart  to  the  party,  and 
then  plugged  up  in  such  a  manner  that  no  traces  of  its  being  open- 
ed were  visible.  In  fact,  nothing  was  left  undone  that  appeared  to 
me  likely  to  prove  useful. 

Having  thus  far  performed  our  duty,  we  prepared  the  ship  for  sea, 
in  order  that  she  might  start  at  an  hour's  notice.  On  the  13th  the 
temperature  fell  to  27°,  the  lakes  on  shore  had  borne  two  or  three 
days,  and  the  sea  had  cooled  down  8°  ;  in  short,  there  was  every  ap- 
pearance of  a  settled  frost.  The  next  day  the  edges  of  the  sound 
began  to  freeze,  and  it  was  evident  that  it  needed  only  calm  weath- 
er to  skin  it  entirely  over.  I  therefore  desired  the  anchor  to  be 
weighed,  and  having  taken  on  board  a  large  supply  of  drift-wood, 
the  last  thing  we  procured  from  the  shore,  we  steered  out  of  the 
sound. 


AND  BGERINO  S  STRAIT. 


2G5 


We  passed  Capo  Kniscnstern  about  midnight  and  then  shaped  a 
course  for  the  strait.  Tlic  night,  though  cold,  was  fine,  and  I'urn- 
ijhed  me  with  eighteen  sets  of  lunar  distances,  east  and  west  of  tlio 
moon,  which  I  was  very  anxious  to  obtain,  in  order  to  fix  more  ac- 
curately the  position  of  Chamisso  Island,  never  having  been  able  to 
succeed  in  getting  fine  weather  with  the  moon  to  the  east  of  t'e 
(un,  until  his  declination  was  too  far  south  for  the  lunars  to  bu  of 
any  value. 

\Sc  had  no  observation  at  noon  the  next  day,  and  the  land  was 
50  refracted  that  we  scarcely  recognised  it ;  we,  however,  continued 
toiiin  for  the  strait,  anxious  to  reach  it  before  sunset.  The  breeze 
increased  as  we  advanced,  and  before  the  Diomede  Islands  came  in 
sjirht  it  blew  so  violently  that  there  was  no  alternative  but  to  endeavour 
10  push  through  them  before  dusk.  At  this  time  there  was  a  very 
ihick  haze,  with  a  bright  setting  sun  glaring  through  it,  which  with 
ihe  spray  around  us  prevented  any  thing  being  seen  but  the  tops  of 
ilie  mountains  near  Cape  Prince  of  Wales.  It  was  consequently 
with  great  pleasure  we  perceived  Fairway  Rock,  and  found  the  strait 
miite  free  from  ice. 

Having  no  choice,  we  passed  through  it  at  a  rapid  rate ;  and  as 

[ilienight  set  in  dark  and  thick,  with  snow  showers,  we  were  glad 

10  find  ourselves  with  sea-room  around  us.     A  little  before  midnight 

ilie  lee-bo\y  port  was  washed  away,  and  so  much  water  cam   in  that 

Las  necessary  to  put  before  the  wind  to  free  the  ship.     In  half  an 

hour,  however,  we  resumed  our  course,  and  about  two  o'clock  in  the 

Homing  passed  King's  Island. 

We  were  now  in  a  situation  where,  by  rounding  to,  we  might 
Ikve  awaited  fine  weather  to  return  to  Cape  Krusenstem,  and  ex- 
Itcutethe  whole  of  the  plan  that  had  been  contemplated  ;  but  con- 
sidering that  our  being  able  to  do  so  was  uncertain,  as  the  barome- 
lier.  which  had  fallen  to  28,7,  afforded  no  prospect  of  a  change  of 
lather,  and  that  the  period  I  had  fixed  for  my  departure  might  ex- 
Lire  before  I  could  repass  the  straits  ;  together  with  the  state  of  our 
Iprovisions,  and  the  improbability  of  meeting  with  Captain  Frank- 
liin  after  all,  it  appeared  to  me  that  the  risks  which  it  involved  were 
hreater  than  the  uncertainty  of  the  result  justified  ;  and  painful  as  it 
Uasto  relinquish  every  hope  of  this  successful  issue  of  our  voyage, 
lit  became  my  duty  to  do  so.  In  the  execution  of  this  necessary 
I  resolution,  it  was  some  consolation  to  reflect,  that  from  the  nature 
lof  Captain  Franklin's  instructions,  it  was  almost  certain  that  by  this 
Itime  he  had  either  commenced  his  return  or  taken  up  his  winter 
libode.  He  had  been  directed  to  return  to  his  winter  quarters  on 
lllie  I5th  of  August,  if  he  found  the  prospect  of  success  was  not  such 
lis  to  ensure  his  reaching  Icy  Cape  that  season,  and  if  it  should 
Ifrove  impracticable  to  winter  at  an  advanced  station  on  the  coast. 


t<    ^ 


288  *  VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC  [Qct. 

We  were  justified,  therefore,  in  supposing  that  he  had  ah-eady  been 
either  compelled  to  pause  or  to  turn  back,  as,  in  the  event  of  the 
successful  prospect  anticipated  in  his  instructions,  it  could  hardly 
happen,  considering  the  open  state  in  which  we  had  found  the  sea  to 
the  northward,  that  he  should  not  have  reached  Kotzebue  sound  by 
the  time  the  Blossom  left  it. 

In  taking  our  departure  from  these  seas,  some  general  observa- 
tions on  the  country,  natives,  the  currents,  meteorology,  and  other 
subjects,  naturally  present  themselves  ;  but  as  we  returned  to  the 
same  place  the  following  year,  and  extended  our  experience,  I  shall 
defer  them  until  a  future  opportunity. 

Up  to  this  period  of  the  voyage,  my  instructions  had  been  a  safe 
guide  for  my  proceedings ;  but  between  our  departure  from  these 
seas,  and  our  return  to  them  the  following  year,  with  the  exception 
of  touching  at  the  Sandwich  Islands,  there  were  no  specific  direc- 
tions for  my  guidance,  and  it  became  me  seriously  to  consider  how 
the  time  could  be  most  usefully  employed.  It  was  necessary  to  re- 
pair to  some  port  to  refit  and  caulk  the  ship,  to  replenish  the  pro- 
visions and  stores,  and,  what  was  equally  important,  to  recruit  the 
health  of  the  people,  who  were  much  debilitated  from  their  priva- 
tions ;  having  been  a  considerable  time  on  short  allowance  of  salt 
provision,  and  in  the  enjoyment  of  only  seven  weeks'  fresh  meat  in 
the  last  ten  months. 

From  the  favourable  account  I  had  herd  of  Saint  Francisco  in 
California,  it  appeared  to  be  the  most  desirable  place  to  which  a 
ship  under  our  circumstances  could  resort ;  and  as  the  coast  between 
that  port  and  Cape  St.  T-iicns  was  very  imperfectly  known,  that  the 
time  could  not  be  more  usefully  employed  than  in  completing  the 
survey  of  it.  I  therefore  directed  our  course  to  that  place,  and  de- 
termined to  enter  the  Pacific  by  the  Strait  of  Oonemak ;  which,  if  j 
not  the  safest  of  those  formed  by  the  Aleutian  Islands,  is  certainly 
the  best  known. 

After  passing  King's  Island  on  the  16th,  we  saw  some  very  large 
flocks  of  ducks  migrating  to  the  southward,  and  fell  in  with  the 
lummes,  which  had  deserted  us  more  than  a  month  before  atChara- 
isso  Island.  As  we  approached  St.  Lawrence  Island,  the  little 
crested  auks  flew  around  us,  and  some  land  birds  took  refuge  in  our 
rigging.  We  passed  to  the  eastward  of  this  island  in  very  thick 
weather,  and  had  only  a  transient  view  of  its  eastern  extremity,  and 
thence  pursued  a  course  to  the  southward,  passing  between  Gore's 
Island  and  Nunevack,  an  island  recently  discovered  by  the  Russian?, 
but  not  known  to  us  at  that  time.  The  soundings  increased,  though 
not  always  regularly ;  and  we  had  thick  misty  weather  which  pre- 
vented and  thing  drying.  The  barometer  fluctuate^  a  little  on 
either  side  of  28,6.     On  the  I8th,  the  temperature,  which  had  ris- 


ii  ' 


1 1 


~^,":lx 


me.] 


AND  BE£RINO  S  STRAIT. 


289 


en  gradaally  as  we  advanced  to  the  southward,  was  twenty  degrees 
liiglier  than  it  was  the  day  we  left  Kotzebue  Sound-a  change  which 
was  sensibly  felt, 

On  the  '21st  we  came  within  sight  of  the  island  of  St.  Paul,  the 
northern  island  of  a  small  groupe,  which,  though  long  known  to 
English  geographers,  has  been  omitted  in  some  of  our  most  esteem- 
ed modern  charts.  The  groupe  consists  of  ihict  islands  named 
St.  George's,  St,  Paul's,  and  Sea-otter.  We  saw  only  the  two  lat- 
ter in  this  passage,  but  in  the  following  year  passed  near  to  the  other, 
and  on  the  opposite  side  of  St.  Paul's  to  that  on  which  our  course 
was  directed  at  this  time.  The  islands  of  St.  Paul  and  St.  George 
are  both  high,  with  bold  shores,  and  without  any  port,  though  there 
is  said  to  be  anchoring-ground  off  both,  and  soundings  in  the  offing 
at  moderate  depths.  At  a  distance  of  twenty-five  miles  from  Sea- 
otter  Island,  in  the  direction  of  N.  37"  W.  (true),  and  in  latitude 
59o  22'  N.,  we  had  fifty-two  fathoms  hard  ground  ;  after  this,  pro- 
ceeding southward,  the  water  deepens.  St.  Paul's  is  distinguished 
by  three  small  peaks,  which,  one  of  them  in  particular,  have  the 
appearance  of  craters  ;  St.  George's  consists  of  two  hills,  united  by 
moderately  high  ground,  and  is  higher  than  St.  Paul's  ;  both  were 
covered  with  a  brown  vegetation.  Sea-otter  Island  is  very  small, 
and  little  better  than  a  rock.  The  Russians  have  long  had  settle- 
ments upon  both  the  large  islands,  subordinate  to  the  establishment 
at  Sitka,  and  annually  send  thither  for  peltry,  consisting  principally 
of  the  skins  of  amphibious  animals,  which,  from  their  fine  furry 
nature,  are  highly  valued  by  the  Chinese  and  Tartar  nations. 

At  sunset  we  lost  sight  of  St.  Paul's  Island,  and  being  at  that 
time  ignorant  of  the  position  of  St.  George's,  further  than  what 
knowledge  was  derived  from  a  rough  notice  of  it  in  the  geological 
account  of  Kotzebue's  Voyage,  we  pursued  our  course  with  some 
anxiety,  as  the  ni  ;;ht  was  dark  and  unsettled,  and  the  morning  came 
without  our  obtaining  a  sight  of  the  island.  On  approaching  the 
Aleutian  Islands,  we  found  them  obscured  by  a  dense  white  haze, 
which  hung  to  windward  of  the  land  ;  and  the  wind  increasing  with 
every  appearance  of  a  gale,  our  situation  became  one  of  great  dif- 
ficulty. Early  in  the  morning,  a  peak  was  seen  for  so  short  a  time 
tliat  it  only  served  to  show  us  that  we  were  not  far  from  the  land, 
without  enabling  us  to  determine  which  of  the  islands  we  were  near ; 
and  as  in  this  part  of  the  Aleutian  Chain  there  are  several  passages 
so  close  together,  tiiat  one  may  easily  be  mistaken  for  the  other,  an 
accurate  knowledge  of  the  position  of  the  ship  is  of  the  greatest  im- 
portance. Under  our  circumstances,  I  relied  on  the  accuracy  of 
Cook's  chart,  and  steered  due  east,  knowing  that  if  land  were  seen 
ill  that  parallel,  it  could  be  no  other  than  the  island  of  Oonemak  ; 

37 


!i  !^  '■ 


f    mi   <  } 


290 


VOTAOE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Oct. 


1> 


and  that  then,  should  the  fog  not  clear  away,  the  course  might  still 
be  directed  along  that  island  to  the  southward. 

This  is  a  precaution  I  strongly  recommend  to  any  person  who 
may  have  to  seek  a  cliannel  through  this  chain  in  foggy  weather, 
particularly  as  these  passages  are  said  to  be  rendered  dangerous  by 
the  rapid  tides  which  set  through  them.  It  was  no  doubt  these 
tides,  added  to  the  prevalence  of  fogs,  that  caused  many  of  the  mis- 
fortunes which  befel  the  early  Russian  navigators.  Shelekoff,  In 
speaking  of  the  strait  to  the  westward  of  Oonemak,  through  which 
we  passed,  observes  that  it  Is  free  from  the  danger  of  rocks  and 
shoals,  but  is  troubled  with  a  strong  current.  In  our  passage  through 
it,  however,  we  did  not  remark  that  this  was  the  case  ;  but  no  doubt 
there  are  just  grounds  for  the  observation.* 

After  running  five  miles,  breakers  were  seen  upon  both  bows,  and, 
at  the  same  time,  very  high  clifls  above  them.  We  stood  on  a  lit- 
tle further,  and  then,  satisfied  that  llie  land  must  be  that  of  Oone- 
mak, bore  up  along  it,  and  passed  through  the  strait.  We  had  no 
soundings  '•,  ith  forty  fathoms  of  line  until  we  were  about  four  miles 
off  the  S.  VV.  end  of  the  island ;  and  there  we  found  thirty  fathoms 
on  a  bank  of  dark-coloured  lava,  pebbles  and  scoriiB,  but  immedi- 
ately lost  it  again,  and  had  no  bottom  afterwards.  The  souih-west 
angle  of  Oonemak  is  distinguished  by  a  wedge-shaped  cape,  with  a 
pointed  rock  off  it.  This  cape  and  the  island  of  Coogalga  form  the 
narrowest  part  of  the  strait,  which  is  nine  miles  and  a  half  across, 
Coogalga  is  about  four  miles  long,  and  rendered  very  conspicuous 
by  a  peak  on  its  N.  E.  extremity.  Accuan,  the  island  to  the  north- 
ward of  this,  which  also  forms  part  of  the  strait,  is  high  and  remar- 
kable ;  but  on  this  occasion  we  did  not  sf  it,  in  consequence  of  the 
bright  haze  tnat  hung  over  the  hills  on  the  northern  part  of  the 
chain. 

Oonemak  was  the  only  island  upon  which  snow  was  observed. 
Its  summit  was  capped  about  one-third  down,  even  with  a  line  of 
clouds  which  formed  a  canopy  over  the  northern  half  of  the  groupe, 
The  limits  of  this  canopy  were  so  well  defined,  that  in  passing 
through  the  strait  on  one  side  of  us  there  was  a  dense  fog,  while  on 
the  other  the  sun  was  shining  bright  from  a  cloudless  sky. 

As  soon  as  we  had  fairly  entered  the  Pacific  the  wind  abated, 
and  we  had  a  fine  clear  night,  as  if  in  passing  through  the  chain 
that  divides  the  Kamschatka  Sea  from  the  Pacific  we  had  left  be- 
hind us  the  ungenial  climate  of  the  former.  Shortly  after  dark 
flashes  were  observed  in  the  heavens,  in  the  direction  of  the  burn- 
ing mountain  of  Alaska,  sometimes  so  strong  as  to  be  mistaken  for 

♦  I  afterwards  learned  from  a  very  respectable  master  of  an  American  brig,  tha' 
in  passing  through  the  strait  to  the  westward  of  Oonalaska,  he  experi  ;nced  a  cur- 
rent running  to  the  northward  at  the  rate  of  six  miles  an  hour,  and  was  unable  to 
■tctn  it. 


If 


,'\ 


i.-.   fe- 


^I^^MV" 


1826.] 


AND  BEERINq's  STRAIT. 


291 


sheet  lightning,  at  others  very  confined ;  viewed  with  a  telescope, 
they  appeared  to  consist  entirpij  of  bright  sparks.  They  seemed 
to  proceed  from  different  parts  of  a  long  narrow  cloud  elevated  80, 
and  lying  in  the  direction  of  the  wind.  Our  distance  from  the  vol- 
cano at  this  time  was  about  seventy  miles,  and  as  similar  flasjies 
were  observed  in  this  place  the  following  year,  it  is  very  probable 
they  were  caused  by  an  eruption.  This  mountain,  I  am  informed, 
has  burnt  lately  with  great  activity,  and  has  been  truncated  much 
lower  than  is  represented  in  the  drawings  of  it  in  Captain  Cook's 
Voyage.* 

After  clearing  the  Aleutian  Chain,  we  had  the  winds  from  the 
westward,  and  made  rapid  progress  towards  our  port.  The  first 
part  of  the  passage  was  remarkable  for  heavy  rolling  seas,  misty 
weather,  and  a  low  barometer,  which  varied  a  little  each  side  of 
28,5 ;  in  the  latter  part  of  the  passage  we  had  dry  foggy  weather, 
and  the  barometer  was  at  30,5. 

On  the  5th  of  November  we  made  the  high  land  of  New  Albion 
about  Bodega,  and  soon  afterwards  saw  Punta  de  los  Reyes,  a  re- 
markable promontory,  from  wh'ch  the  general  line  of  coast  turns 
abruptly  to  the  eastward,  and  leads  to  the  port  of  St.  Francisco. 

We  stood  to  the  southward  during  the  night,  and  about  three 
o'clock  in  the  morning  unexpectedly  struck  soundings  upon  a  clayey 
bank  in  35  fathoms  very  near  the  Farallones,  a  dangerous  cluster 
of  rocks,  which,  until  better  known,  ought  to  be  avoided.  The 
ship  was  put  about  immediately ;  but  the  next  cast  was  25  fathoms 
in  so  stiff  a  clay  that  the  line  was  broken.  The  weather  was  very 
misty,  and  a  long  swell  rolled  towards  the  reefs,  which,  had  there 
been  less  wind,  would  have  obliged  us  to  anchor ;  but  we  increased 
our  distance  from  them,  and  deepened  the  water.  This  cluster  of 
rocks  is  properly  divided  into  two  parts,  of  which  the  south-eastern 
is  the  largest  and  the  highest,  and  may  be  seen  nine  or  ten  leagues 
in  clear  weather.  The  most  dangerous  part  is  apparently  towards 
the  north-west. 

The  next  evening  we  passed  Punta  de  los  Reyes,  and  awaited 
the  return  of  day  off  some  white  cliffs,  which,  from  their  being  sit- 
uated so  near  the  parallel  of  38°  N.  are  in  all  probability  those 
which  induced  Sir  Francis  Drake  to  bestow  upon  this  country  the 
name  of  New  Albion.  They  appear  on  the  eastern  side  of  a  bay 
too  exposed  to  authorize  the  conjecture  of  Vancouver,  that  it  is  the 
same  in  which  Sir  Francis  refitted  his  vessel. 

♦  Sec  also  Kotzebue'a  Voyage,  vol.  iii.  p  383. 


89S 


▼OTACK  TO  THK  PACIFIC 


[Nov. 


iff 


y  ^ 


IN 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


Arrive  at  San  Fraicisco— Description  of  the  Harbour,  Presidio,  and  the  missions- 
Occupations — Dissatisfied  State  of  the  Garrison  and  the  Priesthood— Contempla- 
ted Plan  of  settling-  the  Indians  in  the  Missions — Occupations  of  the  convcrtid 
Indians — Manner  of  making  converts — Expedition  against  the  Tribe  of  Coscnie- 
nes— Official  Despatch — Overland  Journey  to  Monterey — Scarcity  of  Provisions 
at  that  place — Plan  of  the  voyage  altered  in  consequence — Departure. 

When  the  day  broke,  we  found  ourselves  about  four  miles  from 
the  land.  It  was  a  beautiful  morning,  with  just  sufficient  freshness 
in  the  air  to  exhilarate  without  chilling.  The  tops  of  the  moun- 
tains, the  only  part  of  the  land  visible,  formed  two  ranges,  between 
which  our  port  was  situated ;  though  its  entrance,  as  well  as  the  val- 
leys and  the  low  lands,  were  still  covered  with  th^  morning  mist  con- 
densed around  the  bases  of  the  mountair.s.  We  bore  up  for  the 
opening  between  the  ranges,  anxious  for  the  rising  sun  to  withdraw 
the  veil,  that  we  might  obtain  a  view  of  the  harbour,  and  form  our 
judgment  of  the  country  in  which  we  were  abuu!  to  ,iass  the  next 
few  weeks.  As  we  advanced,  the  beams  of  the  rising  sun  gradual- 
ly descended  the  hills,  until  the  mist,  dispelled  from  the  land,  roll- 
ed on  before  the  refreshing  sea  wind,  discovering  cape  after  cape 
and  exhibiting  a  luxuriant  country  apparently  abounding  in  wood 
and  rivers.  At  length  two  low  promontories,  the  southern  one 
distinguished  by  a  fort  and  a  Mexican  flag,  marked  the  narrow  en- 
trance of  the  port. 

We  spread  our  saih  n'ith  all  the  anxiety  of  persons  who  had  long 
been  secluded  from  c  .Uized  society,  and  deprived  of  wholesome 
aliment;  but  after  thetirst  effort  of  the  breeze,  it  died  away  and  left 
us  becalmed  in  a  heavy  N.  W.  swell. 

Off  the  harbour  of  San  Francisco  there  is  a  bar  which  extends 
from  the  northern  shore,  gradually  deepening  its  water  until  it  ap- 
proaches the  peninsula  on  the  opposite  side  *,  where  nine  fathoms 
may  be  carried  over  it.  Of  this  bar,  however,  we  were  ignorant, 
and  naturally  steered  directly  for  the  harbour,  in  doing  which  the 

•The  best  part  for  crossing  is  with  the  island  of  Alcatrasses  in  one  witli  the  f  nt 


i;'< 


1826.] 


AND  BEGRINO  S  STRAIT. 


293 


depth  of  water  gradually  diminished  to  five  fathoms.  This  would 
have  been  of  no  consequence,  had  it  not  been  for  a  swell  which 
rolled  so  heavily  over  the  bank  that  it  continually  broke  ;  and  though 
our  depth  of  water  was  never  less  than  four  and  a  half  fathoms,  the 
ship  on  two  or  three  occasions  disturbed  the  sand  with  her  keel. 
The  tide  was  unfortunately  against  us,  and  the  swell  propelled  the 
ship  just  sufficiently  fast  for  her  to  steer  without  gaining  any  ground, 
so  that  've  remained  in  this  unpleasant  situation  several  hours. 

At  length  a  breeze  sprung  up  and  we  entered  the  port,  and  drop- 
ped our  anchor  in  the  spot  where  Vancouver  had  moored  liis  ship 
thirty-three  years  before.  As  wc  passed  the  entrance,  a  heavy 
sea  rolling  violently  upon  a  reef  of  rocks  on  our  left  *  bespoke  the 
danger  of  approaching  that  side  too  close  in  light  or  baffling  winds  ; 
ivhile  some  scattered  rocks  with  deep  water  round  them  skirting  the 
shore  on  our  right,  marked  that  side  also  as  dangerous  ;  so  that  the 
entrance  may  be  justly  considered  difficult.  Beyond  these  rocks, 
however,  near  the  fort,  there  is  a  bay  in  which  if  necessary,  ships 
may  drop  their  anchor. 

The  fort,  which  we  passed  upon  our  right,  mounts  nine  guns,  and 
is  built  upon  a  promontory  on  the  south  side  of  the  entrance,  appa- 
rently so  near  to  the  precipice,  that  one  side  will,  before  long,  be 
precipitated  over  it  by  the  gradual  breaking  away  of  the  rock.  Its 
situation,  nevertheless,  is  good,  as  regards  the  defence  of  the 
irance ;  but  it  is  commanded  by  a  rising  ground  behind  it.  As 
passed,  a  soilder  protruded  a  speaking-trumpet  through  one  of 
embrasures,  and  hailed  us  with  a  stentorian  voice,  but  we  could  not 
distinguish  what  was  said.  This  custom  of  hailing  vessels  has  aris- 
en from  there  being  no  boat  belonging  to  the  garrison,  and  the  in- 
convenience felt  by  the  governor,  in  having  to  wait  for  a  report  of 
arrivals,  until  the  masters  of  the  vessels  could  send  their  boats  on 
sRore. 

The  port  of  San  Francisco  does  not  show  itself  to  advantage  un- 
til after  the  fort  is  passed,  when  it  breaks  upon  the  view,  and  forci- 
bly impresses  the  spectator  with  the  magnificence  of  the  harbour. 
He  then  beholds  a  broad  sheet  of  water,  sufficiently  extensive  to 
contain  all  the  British  navy,  with  convenient  coves,  anchorage  in 
every  part,  and,  around,  a  country  diversified  with  hill  and  dale, 
partly  wooded,  and  partly  disposed  in  pasture  lands  of  the  richest 
kind,  abounding  in  herds  of  cattle.  In  short,  the  only  objects  want- 
ing to  complete  the  interest  of  the  scene  are  some  useful  establish- 
ments and  comfortable  residences  on  the  grassy  borders  of  the  har- 
bour, the  absence  of  which  creates  an  involuntary  regret,  that  so 
fine  a  country,  abounding  in  all  that  is  essential  to  man,  should  be 


en- 
we 
the 


y- 


\-f\ 


a 


'\  R-i- 


b 


one  with  the  ful 


♦  This  reef  lies  tliree  quarters  of  a  mile  from  Punta  Bouetii. 


^    )1 


294 


VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[Nov 


fM:n 


•i\ 


allowed  to  remain  in  such  a  state  of  neglect.  So  poorly  did  the 
place  appear  to  be  peopled  that  a  sickly  column  of  smoke  risine 
from  within  some  dilapidated  walls,  misnamed  the  presidio  or  pro- 
tection, was  the  only  indication  we  had  of  the  country  being  inhab- 
ited. 

The  harbour  streches  to  the  S.  E.  to  the  distance  of  thirty  miles 
and  affords  a  water  communication  between  the  missions  of  San  Jose 
Santa  Clara,  and  the  presidio,  which  is  built  upon  a  peninsula  about 
five  miles  in  width.  On  the  north  the  harbojr  is  contracted  to  a 
strait,  which  communicates  with  a  basin  ten  miles  wide,  with  a  chan- 
nel across  it  sufficiently  deep  for  frigates,  though  they  cannot  come 
near  the  land  on  account  of  the  mud.  A  creek  on  the  N.  W.  side 
of  this  basin  leads  up  to  the  new  mission  of  San  Francisco  Solano ; 
and  a  strait  to  the  eastward  named  Estrecho  de  Karquines,  communi- 
cates with  another  basin  into  which  three  rivers  discharge  themselves, 
and  bring  down  so  large  a  body  of  water  that  the  estrecho  is  from 
ten  to  eleven  fathoms  deep.  These  rivers  are  named  Jesus  Maria, 
El  Sacramento,  and  San  Joachin  :  the  first,  I  was  informed,  takes  a 
northerly  direction,  passes  at  the  back  of  Bodega,  and  extends  be- 
yond Cape  Mendocino.  El  Sacramento  trends  to  the  N.  E.,  and 
is  said  to  have  its  rise  in  the  rocky  mountains  near  the  source  of 
the  Columbia.  The  other,  San  Joachin,  stretches  to  the  south- 
ward through  the  country  of  the  Bolbones,  and  is  divided  from  the 
S.  E.,  arm  of  the  harbour  by  a  range  of  mountains. 

When  LangsdorfF  was  at  this  port,  an  expedition  was  undertaken 
by  Don  Louis  Arguello  and  Padre  Uria  to  make  converts,  and  to 
enquire  into  the  nature  of  the  country  in  the  vicinity  of  Sierra  neva- 
da ;  and  I  learned  from  Don  Louis,  I  believe  a  son  of  the  comman- 
der, that  they  traced  the  Sacramento  seventy  or  eighty  leagues  up, 
and  that  it  was  there  very  wide  and  deep,  but  that  he  had  no  boat 
to  ascertain  its  depth.  The  Padre  had  it  in  contemplation  to  form 
a  settlement  in  that  direction,  which  he  thought  would  become  very 
rich  in  a  short  time  by  the  number  of  Indians  who  would  flock  to  it; 
but  as  it  was  never  done,  I  presume  he  fouud  material  obstatcles  to 
his  design. 

As  we  opened  out  the  several  islands  and  stopping  places  in  the 
harbour,  we  noticed  seven  American  whalers  at  anchor  at  Sausalito, 
not  one  of  which  showed  their  colours  ;  we  passed  them  and  anchor- 
ed off  a  small  bay  named  Yerba  Buena,  from  the  luxuriance  of  its 
vegetation,  about  a  league  distant  from  both  the  presidio  and  the 
mission  of  San  Francisco.  I  immediately  went  on  shore  to  pay  my 
respects  to  Don  Ignacio  Martinez,  a  lieutenant  in  the  Mexican  ar- 
my, acting  governor  in  the  absence  of  Don  Louis,  and  to  the  priest, 
whose  name  was  Tomaso,  both  of  whom  gave  me  a  very  hospitable 
and  friendly  reception,  and  offered  their  services  in  any  way  they 


t  - 


.  ^    ^«    « 


[Nov. 

srly  did  the 
imoke  rising 
idio  or  pro- 
being  inhab- 

thirty  miles, 
of  San  Jose, 
ninsula  about 
itracted  to  a 
,  with  a  chan- 
cannot  come 
e  N.  W.  side 
icisco  Solano ; 
les,  communi- 
;e  themselves, 
recho  is  from 
I  Jesus  Alarm, 
rmed,  takes  a 
d  extends  be- 
e  N.  E.,  and 
the  source  of 
to  the  south- 
vided  from  the 

as  undertaken 
nverts,  and  to 
of  Sierra  neva- 
f  the  comman- 
jity  leagues  up, 
e  had  no  boat 
plation  to  form 
d  become  very 
luld  flock  to  it; 
1  obstatclcs  to 

Ig  places  in  the 
or  at  Sausalito, 
ism  and  anchor- 
Ixuriance  of  its 
Tesidio  and  the 
Jiore  to  pay  my 
|e  Mexican  ar- 
.  to  the  priest, 
-ery  hospitable 
iny  way  they 


1826.] 


AND    BGERING  S    STRAlT. 


295 


<i 


mieht  be  required.  Our  first  inquiries  naturally  related  to  supplies, 
which  we  were  disappointed  to  find  not  at  all  equal  to  what  had 
been  reported ;  in  short,  it  seemed  that  with  the  exception  of  flour, 
fresh  beef,  vegetables,  and  salt,  whicli  might  be  procured  through 
the  missions,  we  should  have  to  depend  upon  American  vessels  for 
whatever  else  we  might  want,  or  upon  what  might  chance  to  be  in 
store  at  Monterey,  a  port  of  more  importance  than  San  Francisco, 
and  from  being  the  residence  of  a  branch  of  a  respectable  firm  in  Li- 
ma, better  supplied  with  the  means  of  refitting  vessels  after  a  long 
sea  voyage.  _ 

It  was  evident  from  this  report  that  the  supplies  were  likely  to 
be  very  inadequate  to  our  wants ;  but  that  no  opportunity  of  obtain- 
ing them  might  be  lost,  I  despatched  Mr.  Collie  the  surgeon,  and 
Mr.  Marsh  the  pursuer,  overland  to  Monterey,  with  Mr.  Evans 
as  interpreter,  with  orders  to  procure  for  the  ship  what  medicines, 
provisions,  and  other  stores  were  to  be  had,  and  to  negotiate  gov- 
ernment bills,  on  which  the  exchange  was  far  more  more  favourable 
there  than  at  the  Sandwich  Islands.  The  governor  politely  furn- 
ished a  passport  and  a  guard  for  this  service ;  and  our  hc;spitable 
friend  Tomaso,  the  padre  of  the  mission,  provided  horses  for  them 
free  of  any  charge.  In  the  mean  time  we  arranged  with  a  relation 
of  the  governor  for  the  daily  supply  of  the  ship's  company,  an  ar- 
rangement which  it  afterwards  appeared  increased  the  jealousy  that 
bad  long  existed  between  the  presidio  and  the  missions,  by  transfer- 
ring to  the  pocket  of  the  commandant  the  profits  that  would  other- 
rise  have  been  reaped  by  the  padre. 

We  were  happy  to  find  the  country  round  our  anchorage  abound- 
ing in  game  of  all  kinds,  so  plentiful,  indeed,  as  soon  to  lessen   the 
desire  of  pursuit ;  still  there  were  many  inducements  to  both  the  of- 
j  ficers  and  seamen  to  land  and  enjoy  themselves  ;  and  as  it  was  for 
the  benefit  of  the  service  that  they  should  recruit  their  health  and 
strength  as  soon   as   possible,  every   facility   was   afforded  them. 
Horses  were  fortunetely  very  cheap,  from  nine  shillings  to  seven 
pounds  apiece,  so  that  riding  became  a  favourite  amusement ;  and 
the  Spaniards  finding  they  could  make  a  good  market  by  letting  out 
their  stud,  appeared  with  them  every  Sunday  opposite  the  ship, 
ready  saddled  for  the  occasion,  as  this  was  a  day  on  which  I  allow- 
ed every  man  to  go  out  of  the  ship.     Some  of  the  officers  purchas- 
ed horses  and  tethered  them  near  the  place,  but  the  Spaniards  find- 
ing this  to  interfere  with  their  market,  contrived  to  let  them  loose 
I  on  Saturday  night,  in  order  that  the  officers  might  be  compelled  to 
hire  others  on  the  following  day.     The  only  obstacle  to  the  enjoy- 
j  ment  of  this  amusement  was  the  scarcity  of  saddles  and  bridles,  some 
of  which  cost  ten  times  as  much  as  a  decent  horse.     The  ingenuity 
of  the  seame.j  generally  obviated  these  difficulties,  while  some  bor- 


™  1    i;       ■ 


1 


^•-  '^  "f 


T^F'wr-^liPi 


296 


VOYAGE  TO  TUE  I'ACIFIC 


[.V( 


OV. 


rowed  or  hired  saddles  of  tlie  natives :  for  my  own  part,  I  purclias. 
cd  a  decent  looking  horse  for  about  thirty-five  shillings  sterling,  and 
on  my  departure  presented  it  to  a  Spaniard,  who  had  lent  mo  tlio 
necessary  accoutrements  for  it  during  my  stay,  which  answered  the 
purpose  of  both  parties,  as  he  was  pleased  with  his  present,  and  I 
had  my  ride  for  about  a  shilling  a  day  :  a  useful  hint  to  persons  who 
may  be  similarly  circumstanced. 

Such  (if  the  seamen  as  would  not  venture  on  horse  back  made 
parties  to  visit  the  presidio  and  mission,  where  they  found  themselves 
welcome  guests  with  the  Spanish  soldiers.  These  two  places  were 
the  only  buildings  within  many  miles  of  us,  and  they  fortunatelv 
supplied  just  enough  spirits  to  allow  the  people  to  enjoy  themselves 
with  their  friends,  without  indulging  in  much  excess — a  very  great 
advantage  in  a  seaport. 

The  roads  leading  to  these  two  great  plpces  of  attraction  in  a  sliori 
time  became  well  beaten,  and  that  to  the  mission  very  niucli  im- 
proved, by  having  the  boughs  removed  which  before  overhung  it, 
Jt  was  at  first  in  contemplation  to  hire  a  Spaniard  to  lop  them  ;  but 
our  pioneers,  who  stopped  at  nothing,  soon  tore  them  all  awav, 
except  one,  a  large  stump,  which  resisted  every  attack,  and  unhor- 
sed several  of  its  assailants. 

Martinez  was  always  glad  to  see  the  officers  at  the  presidio,  and 
made  them  welcome  to  what  he  had.  Indeed,  nothing  seemed  to 
give  him  greater  pleasure  than  our  partaking  of  his  family  dinner; 
the  greater  part  of  which  was  dressed  by  his  wife  and  daughters,  who 
prided  themselves  on  their  proficiency  in  the  art  of  cooking.  It  was 
not,  however,  entirely  for  the  satisfaction  of  presenting  us  with  al 
well-prepared  repast  that  they  were  induced  to  indulge  in  this  hum- 
ble occupation  :  poor  Martinez  had  a  very  numerous  offspring  to  pro- 
vide for  out  of  his  salary,  which  was  then  eleven  years  in  arrears. 
He  had  a  sorry  prospect  before  him,  as,  a  short  time  previous  to  curl 
visit,  the  government,  by  way  of  paying  up  these  arrears,  sent 
brig  with  a  cargo  of  paper  cigai-s  to  be  issued  to  the  troops  in  iiei 
of  dollars  ;  but,  as  Martinez  justly  observed,  cigars  would  not  satis- 
fy the  families  of  the  soldiers,  and  the  compromise  was  refused, 
The  cargo  was,  however,  landed  at  Monterey  and  placed  under  tli! 
charge  of  the  governor,  where  all  other  tobacco  is  contraband ;  and 
as  the  Spaniards  are  fond  of  smoking,  it  stands  a  fair  chance,  in  thj 
course  of  time,  of  answering  the  intention  of  the  government,  par^ 
ticularly  as  the  troops  apply  for  these  oftener  than  they  otherwis 
would,  under  the  impression  of  clearing  off  a  score  of  wages  tha 
will  never  be  settled  in  any  manner.  Fortunately  for  Martinez  ani 
other  veterans  in  this  country,  both  vegetable  and  animal  food  ar( 
uncommonly  cheap,  and  there  are  no  fashions  to  create  any  expens^ 
of  dress. 


ieing  re 
wanted 


18-26.] 


AND  BEKUINO'S  STRAIT. 


297 


Tlie  governor's  abode  was  in  a  corner  of  the  presidio,  and  form- 
ed one  end  of  a  row,  of  which  the  other  was  occupied  by  a  chapel; 
the  opposite  side  was  broken  down,  and  little  better  than  a  heap 
of  rubbish  and  bones,  on  which  jackals,  do^s,  and  vultures  were 
constantly  preying,  the  other  two  sides  of  the  quandrangle  contain- 
ed storehouses,  artificer's  shops,  and  the  goal,  all  built  in  the 
humblest  style  with  badly  burnt  bricks,  and  roofed  with  tiles.  The 
chapel  and  the  governor's  house  were  distinguished  by  being  white- 
washed. 

Whether  viewed  at  a  distance  ornear,  the  establishment  impresses 
a  spectator  with  any  other  sentiment  than  that  of  its  being  a  place 
of  authority  ;  and  but  for  a  tottering  flag-staff,  upon  which  was  oc- 
casionally displayed  the  tri-coloured  Hag  of  Mexico,  three  rusty  field 
pieces,  and  a  half  accoutred  centinel  parading  the  gateway  in  charge 
ofa  few  poor  wretches  heavily  shakled,  a  visitor  would  be  ignorant 
of  the  importance  of  the  place.  The  neglect  of  the  government  to 
its  establishments  could  not  be  more  thouroughly  evinced  than  in 
the  dilapidated  condition  of  the  building  in  question  ;  and  such  was 
the  dissatisfaction  of  the  people  that  there  was  no  inclination  to  im- 
prove their  situation,  or  even  to  remedy  many  of  the  evils  which 
they  appeared  to  us  to  have  the  power  to  remove. 

The  plain  upon  which  the  presidio  stands  is  well  adapted  to  cul- 
1  tivation  ;  but  it  is  scarcely  ever  touched  by  the  plough,  and  the 
jarrison  is  entirely  beholden  to  the  mission  for  its  resources.  Each 
soldier  has  nominally  about  three  pounds  a  month,  out  of  which  he 
is  obliged  to  purchase  his  provision.  If  the  governor  were  active, 
ind  the  means  were  supplied,  the  country  in  the  vicinity  of  the  es- 
tablishment might  be  made  to  yield  enough  wheat  and  vegetables 
lor  the  troops,  by  which  they  would  save  that  portion  of  their  pay 
which  now  goes  io  the  purchase  of  these  necessary  articles. 

The  garrison  of  San  Francisco  consists  of  seventy-six  cavalry  sol- 
Idiers  and  a  k\v  artillerymen,  distributed  between  the  presidios  and 
[the  missions,  and  consequently  not  more  than  half  a  dozen  are  at 
[any  time  in  one  place. 

They  a.ppeared  to  us  to  be  very  dissatisfied,  owing  not  only  to 
Itheirpay  being  so  many  years  in  arrear,  but  to  the  duties  which  had 
[been  imposed  both  on  the  importation  of  foreign  articles,  and  on  those 
lof  the  Mexican  territory,  amounting  in  the  first  instance  to  forty-two 
landa  half  per  cent ;  whereas  under  the  old  government,two  ships  were 

annually  sent  from  Acapulco  with  goods,  which  were  sold  duty  free, 
land  at  their  original  cost  in  that  country,  and  then,  also,  their  pay 
Ibeing  regularly  discharged,  they  were  able  to  purchase  what  they 
Iwanted,  A  further  grievance  has  arisen  by  the  refusal  of  the  gov- 
lemment  to  continue  certain  privileges  which  were  enjoyed  under 
|the  old  system.     At  that  time  soldiers  entered  for  a  term  of  ten 

38 


•  k» 


i'      I 


'»  I 


^■ 


'r 


•/ 


/J     > 


*sfr 


-TT  J- 


i 


St 


S98 


VOTACE    TO    THE    PACiriC 


[N, 


01', 


\ 


H 


i^ 


I  I 


years,  at  the  expiration  of  which  they  were  allowed  to  retire  to  the  Pue- 
bios — villages  erected  for  this  purpr  ,e,  and  attached  to  the  missions, 
where  the  men  have  a  portion  ground  allotted  to  them  for  the 
support  of  their  families.  TUis  aflbrded  a  competency  to  many; 
and  while  it  benefited  them,  it  was  of  service  to  the  government, as 
the  country  by  that  means  b«,.?ame  settled,  and  its  security  increas- 
ed. But  this  privilege  has  latterly  been  witheld,  and  the  applicanii 
have  been  allowed  only  to  possess  the  land  and  feed  their  calile 
upon  it,  until  it  shall  please  the  government  to  turn  them  off.  The 
reason  of  this,  I  believe,  was  that  Mexico  was  beginning  to  turn  her 
attention  to  California,  and  was  desirous  of  having  settlers  then. 
from  the  southern  districts,  to  whom  it  would  be  necessary  to  give 
lands ;  and  until  they  could  see  what  would  be  required  for  this  pur- 
pose and  for  the  government  establishments,  and  had  the  limits  of 
the  property  already  allotted  defined,  they  did  not  wish  to  make  anv 
new  grants.  The  real  cause,  however,  was  not  explained  to  the 
soldiers  ;  they  merely  heard  that  they  would  not  have  the  land  ce- 
ded to  them  for  life  as  usual,  an  ^  they  were  consequently  much 
dissatisfied.  | 

The  same  feeling  of  discontent  that  was  experienced  by  the  gar- 
rison, pervaded  the  missions,  in  consequence  of  some  new  regula- 
tions of  the  republican  government,  the  first  and  most  grievous  of  I 
which  was  the  discontinuance  of  a  salary  of  400  dollars  per  annum. 
heretofore  allowed  to  each  of  the  padres  :  the   support  the  former  | 
government,  had  given  to  the  missions  amounted,  according  to  Langs- 
dorfF,  to  a  million   piastres  a  year.     Another   grievance    was,  the  I 
requisition  of  an  oath  of  allegiance  to  the  reigning  authorities,  which 
these  holy  men  considered   so  egregious  a  violation  of  their  former 
pledge  to  the  king  of  Spain,  that,  until  he  renounced  his  sovereignty 
over  the  country,  they  could  not  conscientiosly  take  it ;  and,  iniicii 
as  they  were  attached  to  the  place  in  which  they  had  passed  a  large 
portion  of  their  lives,  and  though  by  quitting  it  they  would  be  redu- 
ced to  the  utmost  penury — yet,  so  much  did  they  regard  this  pledge! 
that  they  were  prepared  to  leave  the  country,  and  to  seek  an  asyhiml 
in  any  other  that  would  afford  it  them.     Indeed,  the  Prefect,  prefer- 
ring his  expulsion  to  renouncing  his  allegiance,  had  already  receivedl 
his  dismissal,  and  was  ready  at  the  seaport  of  Monterey  to  embark 
in  any  vessel  the  government  might  appoint  to   receve    him.    A 
third  greivance,  and  one  which,  when  duly  considered,  was  of  some 
importance,  not  only  to  the  missions  but  to  the  country  in  general, 
was  an  order  to  liberate  all  those  converted  Indians  from  the  mis- 
sions who  bore  good  characters,  ann  had  been  taught  the  art  of  ag- 
riculture, or  were  masters  of  a  trade,  and  were  capable   of  suppor- 
ting themselves,  giving  them  portions  of  land  to  cultivate,  so  arran- 
ged that  they  should  be  divided  into  paiishes,  with  curates  to  super- 


'i 


>    I 


«Hi 


■■■i 


AND  BEKRINO  8  STRAIT. 


299 


intend  them,  subservient  to  the  clergy  of  the  missions,  who  were  to 
proceed  to  the  conversion  of  the  Indians  as  usual,  and  to  train  them 
for  the  domesticated  state  of  society  in  contemplation. 

Tills  philanthropic  system  at  first  sight  appeared  to  be  a  very 
excellent  one,  and  every  friend  to  the  rights  of  man  would  naturally 
join  in  a  wish  for  its  prosperity  ;  but  the  Mexican  government  could 
not  have  sufficiently  considered  the  state  of  California,  and  the  dis- 
position of  the  Indians,  or  they  would  have  known  it  could  not  pos- 
sibly succeed  without  long  previous  training,  and  then  it  would  re- 
quire to  be  introduced  by  slow  degrees. 

The  Indians  whom  this  law  emancipated  were  essential  to  the 
support  of  the  missions,  not  only  for  conducting  their  agricultural 
concerns,  but  for  keeping  in  subordination  by  Ibrce  and  example 
those  whom  disobedience  and  ignorance  would  exempt  from  the  pri- 
vilege ;  and  as  a  necessary  consequence  of  this  indulgence  the  mis- 
sions would  be  ruined  before  the  system  could  be  brought  into 
effect,  even  supposing  the  Indians  capable  of  conducting  their  own 
affairs.  So  far  from  this  being  the  case,  however,  they  were  known 
to  possess  neither  the  will,  the  steadiness,  nor  the  patience  to  pro- 
vide for  themselves.  Accustomed,  many  of  them  from  their  infan- 
cy, to  as  much  restraint  as  children,  and  to  execute,  mechanically, 
what  they  were  desired  and  no  more,  without  even  entertaining  a 
thought  for  their  future  welfare,  it  was  natural  that  such  persons, 
tthen  released  from  this  discipline,  should  abandon  themselves  en- 
tirely to  their  favourite  amusements,  pastimes,  and  vices.  Those 
also  who  had  been  converted  in  later  life  would  return  to  their  for- 
mer habits,  and  having  once  again  tasted  the  blessings  of  freedom^ 
which  confinement  and  discipline  must  have  rendered  doubly  desir- 
able, would  forget  all  restraint,  and  then  being  joined  by  the  wild 
discontented  Indians,  they  would  be  more  formidable  enemies  to  the 
missions  than  before,  inasmuch  as  they  would  be  more  enlightened. 
But  1  will  not  anticipate  the  result,  which  we  had  an  opportunity 
of  seeing  on  our  return  the  following  year ;  and  from  which  the 
reader  will  be  able  to  judge  how  the  system  worked. 

The  padres,  however,  dreading  the  worst,  were  very  discontent- 
ed, and  many  would  willingly  have  quitted  that  country  for  Manilla. 
The  government  appeared  to  be  aware  of  this  feeling,  as  they  sent 
some  young  priests  from  Mexico  to  supplant  those  who  were  disaf- 
fected, and  desired  that  they  should  be  trained  up  in  the  mission, 
and  should  make  themselves  acquainted  with  the  language  and  usa- 
ges of  the  Indians,  in  order  that  they  might  not  promote  discontent 
by  any  sudden  innovation. 

The  missions  have  hitherto  been  of  the  highest  importance  to 
California,  and  the  government  cannot  be  too  careful  to  promote 
their  welfare,  as  the  prosperity  of  the  country  in  a  great  measure  is 


t'i  I 


300 


VOYAOB  TO  TUB  PACIFIC 


[Nov. 


dependent  upon  tlicm,  and  must  continue  to  be  so  until  settlers 
from  the  mother  country  can  be  induced  to  resort  thither.  As  ihcy 
are  of  such  consequence,  I  shall  enter  somewhat  minutely  into  a 
description  of  them.  In  Upper  California  there  are  twenty -one  of 
these  establishments,  of  which  nine  are  attached  to  the  presidios  of 
Monterey  and  San  Francisco,  and  contain  about  7000  converts. 
They  are  in  order  as  follow  from  north  to  south  : — 

Convcrlfl, 

'  San  Francisco  Solano,  estab- 
lished in 
San  Raphael 
San  Francisco 
San  Jose      -         -         - 
^  Santa  Clara 
.  C  Santa  Cruz 
t  J  San  Juan     -         -         - 
g  j  San  Carlos 
S  I^La  Soledad 


1 1822,  about  1000 


K 


1817   ■ 

250 

1776   - 

260 

1707   ■ 

1800 

1777   ■ 

1500 

1797   - 

300 

1797   ■ 

1100 

1770   . 

200 

300 

San  Antonio 
San  Miguel 
San  Luis 
De  la  Purissima 
Santa  Ignes 
Santa  Barbara 


6910 

Buena  Vistura 
San  Fernando 
San  Gabriel 
San  Juan  Capistram 
San  Luis  Key  3000 

San  Tomaso 

I  could  no  learn  the  number  of  Indians  which  are  in  each  of  the 
missions  to  the  southward  of  Soledad,  but  they  were  stated  collec- 
tively to  amount  to  20,000 :  on  this  head  I  must  observe  that  the 
padres  either  would  not  say,  or  did  not  know  exactly,  how  many 
there  were,  even  in  their  own  missions,  much  less  the  number  con- 
tained in  those  to  the  southward :  and  the  accounts  were  at  all 
times  so  various  that  the  above  computation  can  be  only  an  approx- 
imation. Almost  all  these  establishments  cultivate  large  portions 
of  land,  and  rear  cattle,  the  hides  and  tallow  of  which  alone  form  a 
small  trade,  of  which  the  importance  may  be  judged  from  the  fact 
of  a  merchant  at  Monterey  having  paid  36,000  dollars  in  one  year 
to  a  mission,  which  was  no.  oue  of  the  largest,  for  its  hide,  tallow, 
and  Indian  labour.  Thuugli  the  system  they  pursue  is  not  calcula- 
ted to  raise  the  colony  to  in\  great  prosperity,  yet  the  neglect  ol 
the  missions  would  not  ioii!:  precede  the  ruin  of  the  presidios,  and 
of  the  whole  of  the  district.  Indeed,  with  the  exception  of  two 
pueblos,  containing  about  seven  hundred  persons,  and  a  few  farm 
houses  widely  scattered  over  the  country,  there  are  no  other  build- 
ings to  the  northward  of  Monterey  :  thus,  while  the  missions  fur- 
nish the  means  of  subsistence  to  the  presidios,  the  body  of  men 


1  ,'* 


[Nov. 

until  settlers 
lier.  As  tliey 
nutely  into  a 
twenty -one  of 
he  presidios  of 
000  converts, 

DonverlH. 
t  1000 

250 

260 
1800 
1500 

300 
1100 

200 

300 


oyio 


n 


3000 


e  in  each  of  the 
re  staled  colloc- 
bserve   that  the 
ctlv,  how  manv 
he  number  con- 
Ints   were  at  all 
only  an  approx- 
large  portions 
ich  alone  forma 
Id  from  the  fact 
lars  in  one  year 
ts   hide,  tallow, 
e  is  not  calcula- 
the  neglect  ol 
presidios,  and 
option   of  two 
Ind   a  few  form 
no  other  buikl- 
e  missions  fur- 
body  of  men 


1826.] 


AND    n^ERING  M    STItilT. 


301 


tiicy  contain  keeps  the  wild  Indians  in  chock,  and  prevents  their 
making  incursions  on  the  settlers. 

Eacii  mission  has  fifteen  s(|uare  miles  of  ground  allotted  to  it. 
The  buildings  are  variously  laid  out,  and  adapted  in  size  to  the 
iiiiniber  of  Indians  which  tliey  contain  ;  some  are  enclosed  by  a 
liigh  wall,  as  at  San  Carlos,  while  others  consist  merely  of  a  few 
rows  of  huts,  built  with  sun-burnt  mud-bricks ;  many  are  vvhite- 
nashed  and  tiled,  and  l.nve  a  neat  and  comfortable  appearance.  It 
is  not,  however,  every  hut  that  has  a  white  face  to  exhibit,  as  that 
ill  a  great  measure  depends  upon  the  industry  and  good  conduct  of 
ilie  family  who  possess  it,  who  are  in  such  case  supplied  with  lime 
for  the  purpose.  It  is  only  the  married  persons  and  the  ofiicers  of 
iJie  establishment  who  are  allowed  these  huts,  the  bachelors  and 
spinistcrs  having  large  places  of  their  own,  where  they  are  sepa- 
rately incarcerated  every  night. 

To  each  mission  is  attached  a  well-built  church,  better  decorated 
in  the  interior  than  the  external  appearance  of  some  would  lead  a 
stranger  to  suppose  :  they  are  well  supplied  with  costly  dresses  for 
processions  and  feast  days,  to  strike  with  admiration  the  sense  of  the 
wzing  Indians,  and  on  the  whole  are  very  respectable  establish- 
ments. In  some  of  these  .•  j  u  few  tolcrablo  pictures,  among  many 
bad  ones ;  and  those  who  have  been  able  to  obtain  them  are  always 
provided  with  representations  of  hell  and  paradise :  the  former  ex- 
iiibiting  in  the  most  disgusting  manner  all  the  torments  the  imagina- 
lion  can  fancy,  for  the  purpose  of  striking  terror  into  the  simple 
Indians,  who  look  upon  the  performance  with  fear  and  trembling. 
Such  representations  may  perhaps  be  useful  in  exhibiting  to  the 
dull  senses  of  the  Indians  what  could  not  be  conveyed  in  any  other 
nay,  and  so  far  they  are  desirable  in  the  mission  ;  but  to  an  Euro- 
pean the  one  is  disgusting,  and  the  other  ludicrous.  Each  establish- 
ment is  under  the  management  of  two  priests  if  possible,  who  in 
Upper  California  belong  to  the  mendicant  order  of  San  Francisco. 
Tliey  have  under  them  a  major-domo,  and  several  subordinate  offi- 
cers, generally  Spaniards,  whose  principal  business  is  to  overlook 
ilip  labour  of  the  Indians. 

The  object  of  the  missions  is  to  convert  as  many  of  the  wild  In- 
dians as  possible,  and  to  train  them  up  within  the  walls  of  the  estab- 
lishment in  the  exercise  of  a  good  life,  and  of  some  trade,  so  that 
lliey  may  in  time  be  able  to  provide  for  themselves  and  become 
useful  members  of  civilized  society.  As  to  the  various  methods 
employed  for  the  purpose  of  bringing  proselytes  to  the  mission, 
tliere  are  several  reports,  of  which  some  were  not  very  creditable 
to  the  institution  :  nevertheless,  on  the  whole  I  am  of  opinion  that 
ilie  priests  are  innocent,  from  a  conviction  that  they  are  ignorant  of 
ilie  means  employed  by  those  who  are  under  them.      Whatever 


»  -1 ,1  - 


V 


r 


"".*  i**ii 


302 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[iV( 


ov. 


Ni 


may  be  the  system,  and  whether  the  Indians  be  really  dragged  from 
their  homes  and  families  by  armed  parties,  as  some  assert,  or  not. 
and  forced  to  exchange  their  life  of  freedom  and  wandering  for  one 
of  confinement  and  restraint  in  the  missions,  the  change  according 
to  our  ideas  of  happiness  would  seem  advantageous  to  them,  as  they 
lead  a  far  better  life  in  the  missions  than  in  their  forests,  where  they 
are  in  a  state  of  nudity,  and  are  frequently  obliged  to  depend  solely 
upon  wild  acorns  for  their  subsistence. 

Immediately  the  Indians  are  brought  to  the  mission  they  are 
placed  under  'he  tuition  of  some  of  the  most  enlightened  of  their 
countrymeii,  who  teach  them  to  repeat  in  Spanish  the  Lord's  Prayer 
and  certain  passages  in  the  Romish  litany  ;  and  also  to  cross  them- 
selves properly  on  entering  the  church.  In  a  few  days  a  wiljine 
Indian  becomes  a  proficient  in  these  mysteries,  and  suffers  himself 
to  be  baptized,  and  duly  initiated  into  the  church.  If,  however,  as 
it  not  unfrequently  happens,  any  of  the  captured  Indians  show  a 
repugnance  to  conversion,  it  is  the  practice  to  imprison  them  for  a 
few  days,  and  then  to  allow  them  to  breathe  a  little  fresh  air  in  a 
walk  round  the  mission,  to  observe  the  happy  mode  of  life  of  their 
converted  countrymen ;  after  which  they  are  again  shut  up,  and 
thus  continue  to  be  incarcerated  until  ihey  declare  their  readiness 
to  renounce  the  religion  of  their  forefathers. 

J  do  not  suppose  that  this  apparently  unjustifiable  conduct  would 
be  pursued  for  any  length  of  time  ;  and  I  had  never  an  opportunity 
of  ascertaining  the  fact,  as  the  Indians  are  so  averse  to  confinement 
that  they  very  soon  become  impressed  with  the  manifestly  superior 
and  more  comfortable  mode  of  life  of  those  who  are  at  liberty,  and 
in  a  few  days  declare  their  readiness  to  have  the  new  religion  ex- 
plained to  them.  A  person  acquainted  with  the  language  of  tlie 
parties,  of  which  there  are  sometimes  several  dialects  in  the  same 
mission,  is  then  selected  to  train  them,  and  having  duly  prepared 
them  takes  his  pupils  to  the  padre  to  be  baptized,  and  to  receive 
the  sacrament.  Having  become  Christians  they  are  put  to  trades, 
or  if  they  have  good  voices  they  are  taught  music,  and  form  part 
of  the  choir  of  the  church.  Thus  there  are  in  almost  every  mis- 
sion weavers,  tamers,  shoemakers,  bricklayers,  carpenters,  black- 
smiths, and  other  artificers.  Others  again  are  taught  husbandry,  to 
rear  cattle  and  horses  ;  and  some  to  cook  for  the  mission  :  while  the 
females  card,  clean,  and  spin  wool,  weave,  and  sew ;  and  those  wliol 
are  married  attend  to  their  domestic  concerns. 

In  requital  of  these  benefits,  the  services  of  the  Indian,  for  life,] 
belong  *o  the  mission,  and  if  any  neophyte  should  repent  of 
apostacy  from  the  religion  of  his  ancestors  and  desert,  an  armei 
force  is  sent  in  pursuit  of  him,  and  drags  him  back  to  punishmeni 
apportioned  to  the  degree  of  aggravation  attached  to  his  crime. 


iwn 


^immmm 


AND  BEGRTNg's  STRAIT. 


303 


does  not  often  happen  that  a  voluntary  convert  succeeds  in  his  at- 
tempt to  escape,  as  the  wild  Indians  have  a  great  contempt  and  dis- 
like for  those  who  have  entered  the  missions,  and  tiiey  will  fre- 
quently not  only  refuse  to  re-admit  them  to  their  tribe,  but  will 
sometimes  even  discover  their  retreat  to  their  pursuers.  Tliis  ani- 
mosity between  the  wild  and  converted  Indians  is  of  great  impor- 
tance to  the  missions,  as  it  checks  desertion,  and  is  at  the  same  time 
a  powerful  defence  against  the  wild  tribes,  who  consider  their  terri- 
tory invaded,  and  have  other  just  causes  of  complaint.  The  Indi- 
ans, besides,  from  political  motives,  are,  I  fear,  frequently  encour- 
aged in  a  contemptuous  feeling  towards  their  unconverted  country- 
men, by  hearing  them  constantly  held  up  to  them  in  the  degrading 
light  of  bestias  !  and  in  hearing  the  Spaniards  distinguished  by  the 
appellation  of  gente  de  razon. 

The  produce  of  the  land,  and  of  the  labour  of  the  Indians,  is  ap- 
propriated to  the  support  of  the  mission,  and  the  overplus  to  amass 
a  fund  which  is  entirely  at  the  disposal  of  the  padres.     In  some  of 
jtlie  establishments  this  must  be  very  large,  although  the  padres  will 
not  admit  it,  and  always  plead  poverty.     The  government  has  lately 
demanded  a  part  of  this  profit,  but  the  priests  who,  it  is  said,  think 
the  Indians  are  more  entitled  to  it  than  the  government,  make  small 
donations  to  them,  and  thus  evade  the  tax  by  taking  care  there 
liliall  be  no  overplus.     These  donations  in  some  of  the  missions  are 
hreater  than  in  others,  according  as  one  establishment  is  more  pros- 
Iperous  than  another ;  and  on  this,  also,  in  a  great  measure,  depends 
lilie  comforts  of  the  dwellings,  and  the  neatness,  the  cleanliness,  and 
i  clothing  of  the  niiople.     In  some  of  the  missions  much  misery 
[prevails,  while  in  others  there  is  a  degree  of  cheerfulness  and  clean- 
liiiess  which  shows  that  many  of  the  Indians  require  only  care  and 
Iproper  management  to  make  them  as  happy  as  their  dull  senses  will 
lidmit  of  under  a  life  of  constraint. 

The  two  missions  of  San  Francisco  and  San  Jose  are  examples  of 

Ithe  contrast  alluded  to.     The  former  in  1817  contained  a  thousand 

[converts,  who  were  housed  in  s'-nall  huts  around  the  mission  ;  but  at 

(present  only  two  hundred  and  sixty  remain — some  have  been  sent, 

litis  true,  to  the  new  mission  of  San  Francisco  Solano,  but  sickness 

and  death  have  dealt  an  unsparing  hand  among  the  others.      The 

puts  of  the  absentees,  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  had  all  fallen  to  de- 

jcay,  and  prec:iited  heaps  of  filth  and  rubbish  ;  while  the  remaining 

Inmates  of  the  mission  were  in  as  miserable  a  condition  as  it  was 

ossible  to  conceive,  and  were  entirely  regardless  of  their  own  com- 

lort.    Their  hovels  afforded  scarcely  any  protection  against  the 

leather,  and  were  black  with  smoke  :  some  of  the  Indians  '"^ere 

lleeping  on  the  greasy  floor ;  others  wore  grinding  baked  acorns  to 

pake  into  cakes,  which  constitute  a  large  po.tion  of  their  food.     So 


f! 


1' 


11 


».'  'IW" 


riu  iiii.ijiryi 


304 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[A' 


ov. 


w 


i)il  % 


little  attention  indeed  had  been  paid  even  to  health,  that  in  one  Imt 
there  was  a  quarter  of  beef  suspended  opposite  a  window,  in  a  verv 
offensive  and  unwholsome  state,  but  its  owners  were  too  indolent  to 
throw  it  out.  San  Jose,  on  tlie  other  hand,  was  all  neatness,  clean- 
liness, and  comfort;  the  Indians  were  amusing  themselves  between 
the  hours  of  labour  at  their  games ;  and  the  children  unifonnlv 
dressed  in  white  bodices  and  scarlet  petticoats,  were  playing  at  bat 
and  ball.  Part  of  this  difference  may  arise  from  the  habits  of  the 
people,  Vi'ho  are  of  different  tribes.  Langsdorff"  observes,  that  the 
Indians  of  the  mission  of  San  Jose  are  the  handsomest  tribe  in  Cal- 
ifornia, and  in  every  way  a  finer  race  of  men  ;  and  terms  the  neo- 
phytes of  San  Francisco  pigmies  compared  with  them.  I  cannot 
say  that  this  remark  occurred  to  me,  and  I  think  it  probable  *lmt  he 
may  iiave  been  deceived  by  the  apparently  miserable  condition  of 
the  people  of  San  Francisco. 

The  children  and  adults  of  both  sexes,  in  all  the  missions,  arc 
carefully  locked  up  every  night  in  separate  apartments,  andthekevs 
are  delivered  into  the  possess-ion  of  the  padre  ;  and   as  in  tho  one- 
time, their  occupations  lead  to  distinct   places,  unless  they  .1  m 
matrimonial  alliance,  they   e.ijoy  very  little  of  each  other's  s      n,  ^ 
It,  however,  sometimes  happens  that  they  cndeavr-ir  to  evade  the 
vigilance  of  their  keepers,  and  are  locked  up  with  the  opposite  sex; 
but  severe  corporeal  punishment,  inflicted  in  the  same  manner  as  is 
practised  in  our  schools,  but  with  a  whip  instead  of  a  rod,  is  sure  to 
ensue   if  they  are   discovered.     Though   there  may  be  occasional  j 
acts  of  tyranny,  yet  the  general  character  of  the  padres  is  kind  and  I 
benevolent,  and  in  some  of  the  missions,  the  converts  are  so  much 
attached  to  th^m  that  I  have  heard  them    declare  they  would  sol 
with  them,  if  they   were  obliged  to  quit  the  country.     It  is  gieallyl 
to  be  regretted  that,  with  the  influence  these  men  have  over  their  | 
pupils,  and  with  the  regard  those  pupils  seem  to  have  for  their  mas- 
ters, tiic  priests  do  not  interest  themselves  a  little  more  in  the  edu- 
cation of  their  converts,  the  first  step  to  which  would  be  in  makind 
themselves  acquamted  with  the  Indian  language.     Many  of  the  In- 
dians surpass  their  pastors  in  this  respect,  andean  speak  the  Spanish 
language,  while  scarcely  one  of  the  padres  can  make  themselves  un- 
derstood by  the  Indians.     They  have  besides,  in  general,  a  lament- 1 
able  contempt  for  the  intellect  of  these    simple    people,  and  think 
tliem  incapable  of  improvement  beyond  a  certain  point.     Notwitl.- 
standing  this,  the  Indians  are, in  general,  well  clothed  and  feci ;  theyl 
have  houses  of  their  own,  and  if  they  are  not  comfortable,  it  is,  inil 
great  measure,  their  own  fault  ;  their  meals  are  given  to  thein  thieel 
times  a  day,  and  consist  of  thick  gruel  made  of  wheat,  Indian  corn,! 
and  sometimes  acorns,  to  which  at   noon  is  generally  added  nieat.! 
Clothing  of  a  better  h'md  than  that  worn  by  the  Indians  s  -^ivtn  tol 


-   <ij 


•'  '^ll 


1826.] 


AND  BEERINO^S  STRAIT. 


305 


the  officers  of  the  missions,  bgth  as  a  reward  for  their  services,  and 
to  create  an  emulation  in  others. 

If  it  should  happen  that  there  is  a  scarcitv  of  provisions,  either 
through  failure  in  the  crop,  or  damage  of  that  which  is  in  store,  as 
they  have  always  two  or  three  years  in  reserve,  the  Indians  are  sent 
off  to  the  woods  to  provide  for  themselves,  where,  accustomed  to 
hunt  and  fish,  and  game  being  very  abundant,  they  find  enough  to 
subsist  upon,  and  return  to  the  mission  when  they  are  required  to 
reap  the  next  year's  harvest. 

Having  served  ten  years  in  the  mission,  an  Indian  may  claim  his 
liberty,  provided  any  respectable  settler  will  become  surety  for  his 
future  good  conduct.  A  piece  of  ground  is  then  alloted  for  his  sup- 
port, but  he  is  never  free  from  the  establishment,  as  part  of  his  earn- 
ings must  still  be  given  to  them.  We  heard  of  very  few  to  whom 
tliis  reward  for  servitude  and  good  conduct  had  been  granted  ;  and 
it  is  not  improbable  that  the  padres  arc  averse  to  it,  as  it  deprives 
them  of  their  best  scholars.  When  these  establishments  were  first 
founded,  the  Indians  flocked  to  them  in  great  numbers  for  the  clothing 
.villi  which  the  neophytes  were  supplied  ;  but  after  they  became  ac- 
quainted with  the  nature  of  the  institution,  and  felt  themselves  un- 
der restraint,  many  absconded.  Even  now,  notwithstanding  the 
difficulty  of  escaping,  desertions  are  of  frequent  occurrence,  owing 
probably,  in  some  cases,  to  the  fear  of  punishment — in  others  to  the 
deserters  having  been  originally  inveigled  into  the  mission  by  the 
converted  Indians  or  the  neophytes,  as  they  are  called  by  way  of 
distinction  to  Los  Gentiles,  or  the  wild  Indians — in  other  case' 
ajain  to  the  fickleness  of  their  own  disposition. 

Some  of  the  converted  Indians  are  occasionally  stationed  in  places 
which  are  resorted  to  by  the  wild  tribes  for  the  purpose  of  offering 
ihem  flattering  accounts  of  the  advantages  ofthe  mission,  and  of  per- 
suading them  to  abandon  their  barbarous  life  ;  while  others  obtain 
leave  to  go  into  the  territory  of  the  Gentiles  to  visit  their  friends, 
and  are  f  Kpected  to  bring  back  converts  with  them  when  they  re- 
turn, 'v  ri  particular  period  of  the  year,  also,  when  the  Indians 
(>>:/  9  ;'uviii  from  the  agricultural  concerns  of  the  establishment, 
man)  ui  ./Uf  »  ore  permitted  to  take  the  launch  ofthe  mission,  and 
make  excui  iop'  to  the  Indian  territory.  All  are  anxious  to  go  on 
such  occasions,  some  to  visit  their  friends,  some  to  prjcure  the 
manufactures  of  their  barbarous  countrymen,  \'hich,  by  t'le  by,  are 
often  better  than  their  own  ;  and  some  witli  tho  secret  determina- 
tion never  to  return.  On  these  occasions  the  pauius  desire  them 
to  induce  as  many  of  their  unconverted  brethren  as  possible  to  ac- 
company them  back  to  the  mission,  of  course  implying  that  this  is 
to  be  done  only  by  persuasions  ;  but  the  boat  being  furnished  with 
aciii^n  and  musketry,  and  in  every  respect  equipped  for  war,  it 

39 


i 


./,  I 


;"f 


■] 


1 1';. 


..'^ 


306 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Nov. 


I  I 


mm  m^ 


too  often  happens  that  the  neophytes,  and  the  gente  de  razon,  who 
superintend  the  direction  of  the  boat,  avail  themselves  of  their  su- 
periority, with  the  desire  of  ingratiating  tliemselves  with  their  mas- 
ters, and  of  receiving  a  reward.  There  are,  besides,  repeated  acts 
of  aggression  which  it  is  necessary  to  punish,  all  of  which  furnish 
proselytes.  Women  and  children  are  generally  the  first  objects  of 
capture,  as  their  husbands  and  parents  sometimes  voluntarily  follow 
them  into  captivity.  These  misunderstandings  and  captivities  keep 
up  a  perpetual  enmity  amongst  the  tribes,  whose  thirst  for  revenge 
is  almost  insatiable. 

We  had  an  opportunity  of  witne:ising  the  tragical  issue  of  one  of 
these  holyday  excursions  of  the  neophytes  of  the  mission  of  San 
Jose.  The  launch  was  armed  as  usual,  and  placed  under  the  su- 
perintendance  of  an  alcalde  of  the  mission,  who  it  appears  from  one 
statement(for  there  are  several,)converted  the  party  of  pleasure  either 
into  or  cf  attack  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  proselytes,or  of  revenge 
upon  a  I  lar  tribe  for  some  aggression  in  which  they  were  con- 

cerned. /  proceeded  up  the  Rio  San  Joachin  until   they  came 

to  the  territuiy  of  a  particular  tribe  named  Cosemei'PC.,  when  thev 
disembarked  with  the  gun,  and  encamped  for  the  night  near  the  vij. 
lage  of  Los  Gentiles,  intending  to  make  an  attack  upon  them  the 
next  morning  ;  but  before  they  were  prepared,  the  Gentiles,  who 
had  been  apprised  of  their  intention,  and  had  collected  a  large  body 
of  friends,  became  the  assailants,  and  pressed  so  hard  upon  the  par- 
ty that,  notwithstanding  they  deal  death  in  every  direction  with 
their  cannon  and  musketry,  and  were  inspired  with  confidence  by 
the  contempt  in  which  they  held  the  valour  and  tactics  of  theirun- 
converted  countrymen,  they  were  overpowered  by  numbers,  and 
obliged  to  seek  their  safety  in  flight,  and  to  leave  the  gun  in  the 
woods.  Some  regained  the  launch  and  were  saved,  and  others  found 
their  way  overland  to  tlie  mission  ;  but  thirty-four  of  their  partv 
never  returned  to  tell  their  tale. 

There  were  other  accounts  of  this  unfortunate  affair ;  one  of 
which  accused  the  padre  ofauthorizing  the  attack;  and  another  sta- 
ted that  it  was  made  in  self-defence  :  br.t  that  which  I  have  given 
appeared  to  be  the  most  probable.  That  the  reverend  father  should 
have  sanctioned  such  a  proceeding  is  a  supposition  so  totally  at  va- 
riance with  his  character,  that  it  will  not  obtain  credit ;  and  the 
other  was  in  all  probability  the  report  of  the  alcalde  to  excuse  his  own 
conduct.  They  all  agreed,  however,  in  the  fatal  termination  of 
their  excursion,  and  the  neophytes  became  so  enraged  at  the  news 
of  the  slaughter  of  their  companions,  that  it  was  almost  impossible 
to  prevent  them  from  proceeding  forthwith  to  revenge  their  deaths. 
The  padre  was  also  greatly  displeased  at  the  result  of  the  excursion, 
as  the  loss  of  so  many  Indians   to  the  mission  was  of  the  greatest 


1826.] 


AND  BEERINO  S  STRAIT. 


307 


consequence,  and  the  confidence  with  which  the  victory  would  in- 
spire the  Indians  was  equally  alarming.  He,  therefore,  joined  with 
the  converted  Indians  in  a  determination  to  chastise  and  strike  ter- 
ror into  the  victorious  tribe,  and  in  concert  with  the  governor  plan- 
ned an  expedition  against  them.  The  mission  furnished  money, 
arms,  Indians,  and  horses  and  the  presidio  provided  troops,  headed 
by  the  alferez,  Sanchez,  a  veteran  who  had  been  frequently  enga- 
ged with  the  Indians,  and  was  acquainted  with  every  part  of  the 
country.  The  troops  carried  with  them  theii  armour  and  shields, 
as  a  defence  against  the  arrows  of  the  Indians  :  the  armour  consisted 
of  a  helmet  and  jerkin  made  of  stout  skins,  quite  impenetrable  to  an 
arrow,  and  the  shield  might  almost  vie  with  that  of  Ajax  in  the 
number  of  its  folds. 

The  expedition  set  out  on  the  19th  of  November,  and  we  heard 
nothing  of  it  until  the  27th  ;  but  two  days  after  the  troops  had  tak- 
en the  field,  some  immense  columns  of  the  smoke  rising  above  the 
mountains  in  the  direction  of  the  Cosemenes,  bespoke  the  confla- 
gration of  the  village  of  the  persecuted  Gentiles.  And  on  the  day 
above-mentioned,  the  veteran  Sanchez  made  a  triumphant  entry  in- 
to the  mission  of  San  Jose,  escorting  forty  miserable  women  and 
children,  the  gun  that  had  been  taken  in  the  first  battle,  and  other 
trophies  of  the  field.  This  victory,  so  glorious,  according  to  the 
ideas  of  the  conqueror,  was  achieved  with  the  loss  of  only  one  man 
on  the  part  of  the  Christians,  who  was  mortally  wounded  by  the 
bursting  of  his  own  gun  ;  but  on  the  part  of  the  enemy  it  was  consid- 
erable, as  Sanchez  the  morning  after  the  battle  counted  forty-one 
men,  women  and  children,  dead.  It  is  remarkable  that  none  of  the 
prisoners  were  wounded,  and  it  is  greatly  to  be  feared  that  the 
Christians,  who  could  scarcely  be  prevented  from  revenging  the 
death  of  their  relations  upon  those  who  were  brought  to  the 
mission,  glutted  their  brutal  passion  on  all  the  wounded  who  fell  in- 
to their  hands.  The  despatch  which  the  alferez  wrote  to  his  com- 
manding officer  on  the  occasion  of  this  successful  termination  of  his 
expedition,  will  convey  the  best  idea  of  what  was  executed,  and 
their  manner  of  conducting  such  an  assault. 

Translation — "  Journal  kept  by  citizen  Jose  Antonio  Sanchez, 
ensign  of  cavalry  of  the  presidio  of  San  Francisco,  during  the  enter- 


prise agamst 


the  Gentiles,  called  Cosemenes,  for  having  put  to 
jeath  the  neophytes  of  the  mission  of  San  Jose."  Written  with 
gunpowder  on  the  field  of  battle  ! 

"  On  the  morning  of  the  20th  the  troop  commenced  its  march, 
and,  after  stopping  to  dine  at  Las  Positas,  reached  the  river  San 
Joachin  at  eleven  o'clock  at  night,  when  it  halted.  This  day's 
march  was  performed  without  any  accident,  except  that  neighbour 
Jose  Ancha  was  nearly  losing  his  saddle.     The  next  day  the  alfe- 


f  ■ 

1 


■i-.' 


— ■!! 


w 


^ 


303 


VOVAGB  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Oct. 


rez  determined  to  send  forward  the  *  auxiliary  neophytes'  to  con- 
struct balsas  *  for  the  troop  to  pass  a  river  that  was  in  advance  of 
them.  The  troop  followed,  and  all  crossed  in  safety ;  but  anion" 
the  last  of  the  horses  that  forded  the  river  was  one  belonging  to  sol- 
dier Leandro  Flores,  who  lost  his  bridle,  threw  his  rider,  and  kick- 
ed him  in  the  face  and  forehead  ;  and  as  poor  Flores  could  not 
swim,  he  was  in  a  fair  way  of  losing  his  life  before  he  came  within 
sight  of  the  field  of  battle  :  assistance  was  speedily  rendered,  and 
he  was  saved.  As  Sanchez  wished  to  surprise  the  enemy,  he  en- 
camped until  dusk,  to  avoid  being  seen  of  the  wild  Indians,  who 
were  travelling  the  country ;  several  of  whom  were  met  and  taken 
prisoners.  At  five  they  resumed  their  march  ;  but  neighbour  Ghex- 
bano  Chaboya  being  taken  ill  with  a  pain  in  his  stomach,  there  was 
a  temporary  halt  of  the  army  :  it  however  soon  set  forward  again, 
and  arrived  at  the  river  of  Yachicume  at  eleven  at  night,  v/ith  only 
one  accident,  occasioned  by  the  horse  of  neighbour  Leandro  Flores 
again  throwing  up  his  heels,  and  giving  him  a  formidable  fall. 

"The  troop  lay  in  ambush  until  five  o'clock  the  next  evening, 
and  then  set  out ;  but  here  they  were  distressed  by  two  horses  run- 
ning away ;  they  were  however  both  taken  alter  a  short  march, 
which  brought  them  to  the  river  San  Francisco,  near  the  rancheria 
of  ^heir  enemy  the  Cosemenes,  and  where  the  alferez  commanded 
his  troops  to  prepare  for  battle,  by  putting  on  their  cueros,  or  armour. 
The  23d  the  troops  divided,  and  one  division  was  sent  round  to  in- 
tercept the  Cosemenes,  who  had  discovered  the  Christians,  and  wore 
retreatint; ;  some  of  whom  they  made  prisonei-s,  and  immedidtely 
the  firing  began.  It  had  lasted  about  and  hour,  when  the  musket 
of  soldier  Jose  Maria  Garnez  burst,  and  inflicted  a  mortoi  wound 
in  his  forehe  d  ;  but  this  misfortune  did  not  hinder  the  other  soldiers 
from  firing.  The  Gentiles  also  opened  their  fire  of  arrows,  and  the 
skirmishing  became  general.  Towards  noon  a  shout  was  heard  in 
the  north  quarter,  and  twenty  Gentiles  were  seen  skirmishing  with 
three  Christians,  two  on  foot  and  one  on  liorseback,  and  presently 
another  shout  was  heard,  and  the  Christians  were  seen  flying, 
and  the  Gentiles  in  pursuit  of  them,  who  had  i-'ready  captured  the 
horse. 

"  It  was  now  four  o'clock,  and  the  alferez,  seeing  that  the  Gen- 
tiles, who  were  in  ambush,  received  little  injury,  disposed  every 
thing  for  the  retreat  of  the  troops,  and  having  burnt  the  rancheria, 
and  seen  some  dead  bodies,  he  retreated  three  quarters  of  a  league, 
and  encamped  for  the  night.  On  the  24th  the  troops  divided  into 
two  parties,  one  charged  with  booty  and  prisoners  amounting  to  for- 
ty-four souls,  mostly  women. 


♦  These  are  rafts  made  of  rushes,  and  are  the  Indian  substitute  for  canoes. 


* 


1926.] 


AND    BEERINO'S    STRAIT. 


309 


ran- 


:  for  canoes. 


"  The  other  party  went  with  the  veteran  Sanchez  to  the 
cheria,  to  reconnoitre  the  dead  bodies,  of  which  he  counted  forty 
one  men,  women,  and  children.  They  met  with  an  old  woman 
there,  the  only  one  that  was  left  alive,  who  was  in  so  miserable  a 
state  that  they  showed  their  compassion  by  taking  no  account  of 
hr.  The  alferez  then  set  out  in  search  of  the  cannon  that  had 
i)een  abandoned  by  the  first  expedition.  The  whole  of  the  troop 
afterwards  retreated,  and  arrived  at  the  mission  of  San  Jose  on  the 
night  of  the  27th." 

This  truly  ludicrous  account  of  an  expedition  of  such  trifling  im- 
portance might  appear  to  require  an  apology  for  its  insert: an,  but  it 
conveys  so  good  an  idea  of  the  opposition  to  be  expected  by  any 
power  which  might  think  proper  to  land  upon  the  coast  of  Califor- 
nia, that  its  omissio:     night  fairly  be  considered  a  neglect. 

The  prisoners  they  had  captured  were  immediately  enrolled  in 
ibe  list  of  the  mission,  except  a  n>ce  little  boy,  whose  mother  was 
shot  while  running  away  with  him  in  her  arms,  and  he  was  sent  to 
the  presidio,  and  was,  I  heard,  given  to  the  alferez  as  a  reward  for 
lis  services.  The  poor  little  orphan  had  received  a  slight  wound 
i  in  his  forehead  ;  he  wept  bitterly  at  first,  and  refused  to  eat,  but  in 
I  time  became  reconciled  to  his  fate. 

Those  who  were  taken  to  the  mission  were  immediately  conver- 

lied,  and  were  daily  taught  by  the  neophytes  to  repeat  the  Lord's 

j  prayer,  and  certain  hymns  in  the  Spanish  language.      I  happened 

lie  visit  the  mission  about  this  time,  and  saw  these  unfortunate  be- 

liiigs  under  tuition :  they  were  clothed  in  blankets,  and  arranged  in 

irow  before  a  blind  Indian,  who  understood  their  dialect,  and  was 

lisisted  by  an  alcalde  to  keep  order.     Their  tutor  began  by  desir- 

iiijthem  to  kneel,  informing  them  that  he  was  going  to  teach  them 

lie  names  of  the  persons  composing  the  Trinity,  and  that  they  were 

10  repeat  in  Spanish  what  he  dictated. 

The  neophytes  being  thus  arranged,  the  speaker  began,  "  San- 
hissima  Trinidada,  Dios,  Jesu  Cristo,  Espiritu  Santo" — pausing  be- 
I  uveen  each  name,  to  listen  if  the  simple  Indians,  who  had  never 
spoken  a  Spanish  word  before,  pronounced  it  correctly,  or  any  thing 
I  near  the  mark.     After  they  had  repeated  these  names  satisfactorily, 
ilieir  blind  tutor  after  a  pause  added,  "Santos" — and  recapitulated 
ilie  names  of  a  great  many  saints,  which  finished  the  morning's  tui- 
tion.   I  did  not  attend  the  next  schooling  to  hear  what  was  the  en- 
suing task,  but  saw  them  arranged  on  their  knees,  repeating  Spanish 
I  words  as  before. 

They  did  not  appear  to  me  to  pay  much  attention  to  what  was 
I  joing  forward,  and  I  observed  to  the  padre  that  I  thought  their 
teachers  had  an  arduous  task ;  but  he  said  they  had  never  found 
any  difficulty  ;  that  the  Indians  were  accustomed  to  change  their  own 


w. 


i  j*  1 1 


fj: 


I  ' 


■M 


.  .--4«>4«Ms3fr 


-If 


''  If  • 


I 


% 


310 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Nov. 


I 


^ods,  and  that  their  conversion  was  in  a  measure  habitual  to  them, 
I  could  not  help  smiling  at  this  reason  of  the  padre,  but  have  no 
doubt  it  was  very  true  ;  and  that  the  party  I  saw  would  feel  as  little 
compunction  at  apostatizing  again,  whenever  they  should  have  an 
opportunity  of  returning  to  their  own  tribe. 

The  expenses  of  the  late  expedition  fell  heavy  upon  the  mission, 
and  I  was  glad  to  find  that  the  padre  thought  it  was  paying  very- 
dear  for  so  few  converts,  as  in  all  probability  it  will  lessen  liis  de- 
sire  to  undertake  another  expedition  ;  and  the  poor  Indians  will  be 
spared  the  horrors  of  being  butchered  by  their  own  countrymen, 
or  dragged  from  their  homes  into  perpetual  captivity.  He  was  also 
much  concerned  to  think  the  Cosemenes  had  stood  their  ground  so 
firmly,  and  he  was  under  some  little  apprehension  of  an  attack  up. 
on  the  mission.  Impressed  with  this  idea,  and  in  order  to  defend 
himself  the  more  effectually.  He  begged  me  to  furnish  him  with  a  j 
few  fireworks,  which  he  thought  would  strike  terror  into  his  ene* 
mies  in  case  of  necessity. 

Morning  and  evening  mass  are  daily  performed  in  the  missions, 
and  high  mass  as  it  is  appointed  by  the  Romish  Church,  at  wliichj 
all  the  converted  Indians  are  obliged  to  attend.     The  commemora- 
tion of  the  anniversary  of  the  patroness  saint  took  place  during  nij  I 
visit  at  San  Jose,  and  high  mass  was  celebrated  in  the  church.   Be- 
fore the  prayers  began,  there  was  a  procession  of  the  young  female! 
Indians,  with  which  I  was  highly  pleased.      They  were  neailjl 
dressed  in  scarlet  petticoats,  and  white  bodices,  and  walked  in  al 
very  orderly  manner  to  the  church,  where  they  had  places  assignedl 
to  them  apart  from  the  males.      After  the  bell  had  done  tollin?,! 
several  alguazils  went  round  to  the  huts,  to  see  if  all  the  Indians! 
were  at  church,  and  if  they  found  any  loitering  within   them,  tlieyl 
exercised  with  tolerable  freedom  a  long  lash  with  a  broad  thong  al 
the  end  of  it ;  a  discipline  which  appeared  the  more  tyrannical,  asl 
the  church  was  not  sufliciently  capacious  for  all  the  attendants,  audi 
several  sat  upon  the  steps  without ;  but  the  Indian  women  who  bad 
been  captured  in  the  affair  with  the  Cosemenes  were  placed  in 
situation  where  they  could  see  the  costly  images,  and  vessels  ofl 
burning  incense,  and  every  thing  that  was  going  forward. 

The  congregation  was  arranged  on  both  sides  of  the  buildind 
separated  by  a  wide  aisle  passing  along  the  centre,  in  which  wm 
stationed  several  alguazils  with  whips,  canes,  and  goads,  to  preservj 
silence  and  maintain  order,  and,  what  seemed  more  difficult  tliaa 
either,  to  keep  the  congregation  in  their  kneeling  posture.  TliJ 
goads  were  better  adapted  to  this  purpose  than  the  whips,  as  tliejl 
would  reach  a  long  way,  and  inflict  a  sharp  puncture  without  makJ 
ing  any  noise.  The  end  of  the  church  was  occupied  by  a  guar! 
of  soldiers  under  arms,  with  fixed  bayonets  ;  a  precaution  which 


19-26.] 


pon  the  mission, 
'as  paying  very 
I  lessen  his  de- 
ir  Indians  will  be 
\vn  countrymen, 
ty.  He  was  also 
d  their  ground  so 
of  an  attack  up- 
order  to  defend 
nish  him  with  a 
ror  into  his  ene-j 

i  in  the  missions, 

Church,  at  wliick 

The  conimemora- 

k  place  during  my 

I  the  church.   Be- 

;  the  young  female 

rhey  were  neatly 

I  and  walked  in  i] 

lad  places  assigned 

had  done  tollinj, 

jf  all  the  Indian 

within  them,lhey] 

a  hroad  thong  at 

iiore  tyrannical,  as 

[he  attendants,  and] 

in  women  who  bai' 

[Were  placed  in 

[es,  and  vessels  ol 

'orward. 

of  the  buildin?; 
•e,  in  which  wer( 
goads,  to  preserv 
lore  difficult  thai 
jg  posture.  Tb 
he  whips,  as  the 
iture  without  mat 
upied  by  a  giia" 
irecaution  which 


AND  BEERING  S  STRAIT. 


311 


suppose  experience  had  taught  the  necessity  of  observing.  Above 
jliem  there  was  a  choir,  consisting  of  several  Indian  musicians,  who 
performed  very  well  indeed  on  various  instruments,  and  sang  the 
Deuni  in  a  very  passable  manner.  Tlie  congregation  was  very  at- 
tentive, but  the  gratification  they  appeared  to  derive  from  the  music 
furnished  another  proof  of  the  strong  hold  this  portion  of  the  cere- 
monies of  the  Komish  church  takes  upon  uninformed  minds. 

The  worthy  and  benevolent  priests  of  the  mission  devote  almost 
ilie  wiiole  of  their  time  to  the  duties  of  the  establishment,  and  have 
a  fatherly  regard  for  those  placed  under  them  who  are  obedient  and 
diligent;  and  too  much  praise  cannot  be  bestowed  upon  them,  con- 
sidering that  they  have  relinquished  many  of  the  enjoyments  of  life, 
and  have  embraced  a  voluntary  exile  in  a  distant  and  barbarous 
country.  The  only  amusement  which  my  hospitable  host  of  the 
mission  of  San  Jose  indulged  in,  during  my  visit  to  that  place,  was 
Iduring  meal  times,  when  he  amused  himself  by  throwing  pancakes 
10  the  nwc/tacAos,  a  number  of  little  Indian  domestics,  who  stood 
japing  round  the  table.  For  this  purpose,  he  had  every  day  two 
piles  of  pancakes  made  of  Indian  corn  ;  and  as  soon  as  the  olla  was 
removed,  he  would  fix  his  eyes  upon  one  of  the  boys,  who  imme- 
wtely  opened  his  mouth,  and  the  padre,  rolling  up  a  cake,  would 
Lay  something  ludicrous  in  allusion  to  the  boy's  appetite,  or  to  the 
[iizeof  his  mouth,  and  pitch  the  cake  at  him,  which  the  imp  would 
tatch  between  his  teeth,  and  devour  with  incredible  rapidity,  in 
irder  that  he  might  be  ready  the  sooner  for  another,  as  well  as  to 
[lease  the  padre,  whose  amusement  consisted  in  a  great  measure  in 
ilnessing  the  sudden  disappearance  of  the  cake.  In  this  manner 
lie  piles  of  cakes  were  gradually  distributed  among  the  boys,  amidst 
iiich  laughter,  and  occasional  squabbling. 

Nothing  could  exceed  the  kindness  and  consideration  of  these  ex- 
ellent  men  to  their  guests  and  to  travellers,  and  they  were  seldom 
lore  pleased  than  when  any  one  paid  their  mission  a  visit :  we  al- 
lays fared  well  there,  and  even  on  fast  days  were  provided  with  fish 
!ssed  in  various  ways,  and  preserves  made  with  the  fruit  of  the 
rantry.  We  had,  however,  occasionally  some  difficulty  in  main- 
ij  our  good  temper,  in  consequence  of  the  unpleasant  remarks 
(bich  the  difference  of  our  religion  brought  from  the  padres,  who 
rere  very  bigoted  men,  and  invariably  introduced  this  subject.  At 
ther  times  they  were  very  conversible,  and  some  of  them  were  in- 
!nious  and  clever  men ;  but  they  had  been  so  long  excluded 
inithe  civilized  world,  that  their  ideas  and  their  politics,  like  the 
laps  pinned  against  the  walls,  bore  date  of  1772,  as  near  as  I  could 
tad  it  for  fly  spots.  Their  geographical  knowledge  was  equally 
Jckward,  as  my  host  at  San  Jose  had  never  heard  of  the  discove- 
(s  of  Captain  Cook  ;  and  because  Otaheite  was  not  placed  upon 
ie  chart,  he  would  scarcely  credit  its  existence. 


tm  .^ 


H 


312 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Nov. 


m 


i 


^) 


n  i 


The  Indians  after  their  conversion  are  quiet  and  tractable,  but  ex- 
tremely inilolent,  and  given  to  intoxication,  and  other  vices.     Cain- 
bling   in  particular  they  indulge  in  to  an  unlimited  extent:  tlio, 
pledge  the  very  clothes  on  their  backs,  and  not  unfrequently  liav 
been  known  to  play  for  each  other's  wives.     They   have  several 
games  of  their  own,   besides  some  with  cards,  which  have  been 
taught  them  by  the  Spaniards.     Those  which  are  most  common, 
and  are  derived  from  the  wild  Indians,  are  tousse  called  by  the  Span- 
iards pares  y  nones,  odd  or  even  ;  escondido,  or  hunt  the  slipper; 
and  takersia. 

The  first,  though  sometimes  played  as  in  England,  generally  con- 
.sists  in  concealing  a  piece  of  wood  in  one  hand,  and  holding  out 
both  for  the  guessing  party  to  declare  in  which  it  is  contained.    The 
intense  interest  that  is  created  by  its  performance   has  been  anms. 
ingly  described  by  Perousc.     The  second,  escondido,  needs  no  de- 
scription ;  the   last,  takersia,    requires  some  skill  to  play  well,  and  | 
consists  in  rolling  a  circular  piece  of  wood  with  a  hole  in  its  centre  I 
along  the  ground,  and  throwing  a  spear  through  it  as  it  rolls.     If  the  | 
spear  pierces  the  hole,  it  counts  ten  towards  the  game  ;  and  if  it  ar- 
rests the  wood  in  such  a  manner  that  it  falls  upon  the  spear,  two  k\ 
reckoned.     It  is  a  sport  well  calculated  to  improve  the  art  of  throw- 
ing the  spear :  but  the  game  requires  more  practice  to  play  it  well 
than  the  Indians  usually  bestow  upon  it. 

At  some  of  the  missions  they  pursue  a  custom  said  to  be  ofgreatl 
antiquity  among  the  aborigines,  and  which  appears  to  afford  thenil 
much  enjoyment.  A  mud  house,  or  rather  a  large  oven,  called  te-f 
meschal  by  the  Spaniards,  is  built  in  a  circular  form,  with  a  small  m 
trance,  and  an  aperture  in  the  top  for  the  smoke  to  escape  throujbJ 
Several  persons  enter  this  place  quite  naked  and  make  a  fire  neai 
the  door,  which  they  continue  to  feed  with  wood  as  long  as  theycaJ 
bear  the  heat.  In  a  short  time  ♦hey  are  thrown  into  a  most  profusi 
perspiration,  they  wring  their  Ijair,  and  scrape  their  skin  withi 
sharp  piece  of  wood  or  an  iron-hoop,  in  the  same  manner  as  coaclj 
horses  are  sometimes  treated  when  they  come  in-heated  ;  and  thei 
plunge  into  a  river  or  pond  of  cold  water,  which  they  always  tak^ 
care  shall  be  near  the  temeschal. 

A  similar  practice  to  this  is  mentioned  by  ShelekofF  as  beins;  i 
use  among  the  Konaghi,  a  tribe  of  Indians  near  Cook's  River,  wh 
have  a  method  of  heating  the  oven  with  hot  stones,  by  which  thejj 
avoid  the  discomfort  occasioned  by  the  wood-smoke  ;  and,  insteai 
of  scraping  their  skin  with  iron  or  bone,  rub  themselves  with  grai 
and  twigs. 

Formerly  the  missions  had  small  villages  attached  to  them,  ij 
which  the  Indians  lived  in  a  very  filthy  state  ;  these  have  almost  af 
disappeared  since  Vancouver's  visit,  and  the  converts  are  dispose 


t,* 


■«-?■ 


'7'^'>m 


[Nov. 

clable,  but  ex- 
r  vices.  Gam- 
1  extent:  they 
requently  liav 
y  have  several 
liich  have  been 
most  common, 
led  by  the  Span- 
int  the  slii^per; 

\,  generally  con- 
,  and  holding  out 
contained.    The 
has  been  aniiis- 
do,  needs  no  de- 
to  play  well,  and  I 
hole  in  its  centre 
IS  it  rolls.     Iftlie 
ame  ;  and  if  it  ar- 
the  spear,  two  is 
e  the  art  of  throw- 
;ice  to  play  it  well 

said  to  be  of  great! 

ars  to  afford  theraf 

re  oven,  called te- 

1,  with  a  small  enJ 

to  escape  throujbJ 

I  make  a  fire  neaj 

as  long  as  theycaJ 

nto  a  most  profusf 

their  skin  withi 

manner  as  coacb 

heated;  andiM 

they  always  taki 

llekoff  as  bein?i^ 

Rook's  River,  wl 

fes,  by  which  tliej 

loke;  and.instea' 

iselves  with  gn 

Itached  to  them.' 
lese  have  almost ; 
Iverts  are  dispose! 


1826.] 


AND    DGERINO'S    STRAIT. 


313 


of  in  liuts  as  before  described  ;  and  it  is  only  when  sickness  prevails 
;o  a  great  extent  that  it  is  necessary  to  erect  these  habitations,  in 
order  to  separate  the  sick  from  those  who  are  in  health.  Sickness 
ill  general  prevails  to  an  incredible  extent  in  all  the  missions,  and 
on  coniparing  the  census  of  Jie  years  1786  and  1813,  the  propor- 
tion of  deaths  appears  to  be  increasing.  At  the  former  period 
tlu-re  liad  been  only  7,701  Indians  baptised  out  of  which  2,388  had 
died;  hut  in  1313  there  had  been  37,437  deaths  to  only  57,328 
baptisms. 

The  establishments  are  badly  supplied  with  medicines,  and  the 
rev:;rend  fathers,  their  only  medical  advisers,  are  inconceivably  ig- 
norant of  the  use  of  them.  In  one  mission  there  was  a  seaman  who 
pretended  to  some  skill  in  pharmacy,  but  he  knew  little  or  nothing 
of  it,  and  perhaps  often  did  more  harm  than  good.  The  Indians 
are  also  extremely  careless  and  obstinate,  and  prefer  their  own  sim- 
ples to  any  other  remedies,  which  is  not  unfrequently  the  occasion 
of  their  disease  having  a  fatal  termination. 

The  Indians  in  general  submit  quietly  to  the  discipline  of  the 
missions,  yet  insurrections  have  occasionally  broken  out,  particular- 
y  in  the  early  stage  of  the  settlement,  when  father  Tamoral  and 
other  priests  suffered  martyrdom.*  In  1823,  also,  a  priest  was  mur- 
I  dered  in  a  general  insurrection  in  the  vicinity  of  San  Luis  Rey ; 
and  in  1827,  the  soP'ors  of  the  garrison  were  summoned  to  quell 
[another  riot  in  the  same  quarter. 

The  situations  of  the  missions,  particularly  that  of  San  Jose,  arc 

l.'j^eneral  advantageously  chosen.     Each  establishment  has  fifteen 

|si|uare  miles  of  ground,  of  which  part  is  cultivated,  and  the  rest  ap- 

Ipropriated  to  the  grazing  and  rearing  of  cattle  ;  lor  in  portioning  out 

Itlie  ground,   care    has  been  taken  to  avoid    that   which  is  barren. 

Illiemost  productive  farms  are  held  by  the  missions  of  San  Jose, 

ISanta  Clara,  San  Juan,  and  Santa  Cruz.     That  of  San  Francisco 

Ijppears  to  be  badly  situated,  in  consequence  of  the  cold  fogs  from 

lltie  sea,  which  approach  the  mission  through  several  deep  valleys, 

Ijh^  turn  all  the  vegetation  brown  that  is  exposed  to  them,  as  is  the 

jcase  in  Shetland  with  the  top  of  every  tree  that  rises  above  the  walls. 

itill,  with  care,  more  might  be  grown  in  the  mission  than  it  is  at 

[present  made  to  produce.     Santa  Cruz  is  rich  in  supplies,  probably 

Ion  account  of  the  greater  demand  by  merchant  vessels,  whalers  in 

Iparticular,  who  not  unfrequently  touch  there  the  last  thing  on  leav- 

linj  the  coast,  and  take  on  board  what  vegetables  they  require  ;  the 

[quantity  of  which  is  so  considerable,  that   it  not  unfrequently  hap- 

Ipens  that  the  missions  are  for  a  time  completely  drained.     On  this 

♦  Noticias  de  California,  by  Miguel  Venegas. 

40 


^      J 


■# 


»--S- 


v«< 


'It 


314 


VOYAGE    TO    THF,    PACIFIC 


[Nov. 


I 


pi, » '' 


'.  / 


»'  I 


I' mi     ):.")■ 


account  it  is  advisal)'^,  on  amvinp;  at  any  of  the  ports,  to  take  an 
early  opportunity  of  ordering  every  tiling  that  may  be  reciuiied. 

A  quantity  of  grain,  such  as  wheat  and  Indian  corn,  is  aniumlK 
raised  in  all  the  niissions,  except  San  Francisco,  which,  ncjtwiih. 
standing  it  has  a  farm  Hurri  IJurri,  is  sometimes  obliged  to  have  re- 
course  to  the  other  establishments.  Harloy  and  oats  are  said  to  bo 
scarcely  worth  the  cultivation,  but  beans,  peas,  and  other  Icgumi- 
nous  vegetables  are  in  abundance,  and  fruit  is  plentiful.  Tlio  laiuj 
requires  no  manure  at  present^  and  yields  on  an  average  twenty  for 
one.     San  Jose  reaps  about  3,(K)()  fancgas  *  of  wheat  annually. 

Hides  and  tallow  constitute  the  principal  riches  of  the  missions, 
and  the  staple  commodity  of  the  conmierce  of  the  country  :  a  prof. 
itable  revenue  might  also  be  derived  from  grain,  were  the  deiiuiml 
for  it  on  the  coast  such  as  to  encourage  them  to  cultivate  a  larner 
quantity  than  is  required  by  the  Indians  attached  to  the  missions, 
San  Jose,  which  possesses  15,000  head  of  cattle,  cures  about  i2,(l()0 
hides  annually,  and  as  many  botas  of  tallow,  which  are  either  dis- 
posed of  by  contract  to  a  mercantile  establishment  at  Monterey,  or 
to  vessels  in  the  harbour.  The  price  of  these  hides  may  be  jiidsed 
by  their  finding  a  ready  market  on  the  Lima  coast.  Though  there 
are  a  great  many  sheep  in  the  country,  as  maybe  seen  by  the  mis- 
sion  San  Jose  alone  possessing  3,000,  yet  there  is  no  export  of 
wool,  in  consequence  of  the  consumption  of  that  article  in  the  man- 
ufacture of  cloth  for  the  missions. 

Husbandry  is  still   in  a  very  backward  state,  and  it  is  <*       ito.j 
that  the  soil  is  so  fertile,  and  that  there  are  abundance   of  1  < 

to  perform  the  work,  or  I  verily  believe  the  people  would  be  conten- 
ted to  live  upon  acorns.  Their  ploughs  appear  to  have  descended 
from  the  patiiarchial  ages,  and  it  is  only  a  pity  that  a  little  of  the 
skill  and  industry  then  employed  upon  them,  should  not  have  de- 
volved upon  the  present  generation.  It  will  scarcely  be  credited  by 
agriculturists  in  other  countries,  that  there  were  seventy  ploiis;lis 
and  two  hundred  oxen  at  work  upon  apiece  of  light  ground  often 
acres  ;  nor  did  the  overseers  appear  to  consider  that  number  unrcc- 
essary,  as  the  padre  called  our  attention  to  this  extraordinary  ad- 
vancement of  the  Indians  in  civilization,  and  pointed  out  the  mon 
able  workmen  as  the  plougii:  passed  us  in  succession.  The  great- 
er part  of  these  ploughs  followed  in  the  "nina  furrow  without  ma- 
king much  impression,  until  they  approached  the  padre,  when  the 
ploughman  gave  the  necessary  inclination  of  the  hand,  and  the! 
share  got  hold  of  the  ground.  It  would  have  been  good  policy  for 
the  padre  to  have  moven  gradually  along  the  field,  by  which  hi 
would  leave  had  it  properly  ploughed ;  but  he  seemed  to  be  quiti 

•  A  fancga  is  ono  hundred  pounds  weight. 


,,,,  -s,  ■ 
'■"'\V'«i 


l8Hi.\ 


AND     UKUIlINf!  S   STKAIT. 


315 


satisfied  with  tlio  performance.  Several  of  the  missions,  hut  partic- 
iilaily  that  of  Santa  JJarhara,  make  a  wino  rosenihhns  chiret,  though 
not  near  so  pahitablo,  and  they  also  distil  an  ardent  spirit  rosenibling 
arrack. 

In  this  part  of  California,  besides  the  missions,  there  are  several 
pueblos,  or  villages,  occupied  by  Spaniards  and  their  families,  who 
have  availed  themselves  of  the  privileges  granted  by  the  old  govern- 
ment, and  have  reliniiuished  the  sword  for  the  ploughshare.  There 
arc  also  a  few  settlers  who  are  farmers,  hut,  with  th  'se  exceptions, 
the  country  is  almost  uninhabited.  Perhaps  I  cannot  convoy  a  bet- 
ter idea  of  the  deserted  state  of  the  country,  or  of  the  capability  of 
its  soil,  than  by  inserting  a  short  narrative  which  I  have  compiled 
from  the  journals  of  throe  of  my  oflicers  who  travelled  over  land 
from  San  Francisco  to  "  the  liimous  port  of  Monterey." 

I  have  already  stated  that  it  was  found  expedient  to  make  this 
journey  to  learn  whether  any  supplies  could  bo  procured  lor  the 
ship:  and  in  consequence  Mr.  Collie  the  surgeon,  Mr.  Marsh,  the 
purser,  and  Mr.  Evans,  who  was  well  acquainted  with  the  Spanish 
language,  were  requested  to  proceed  on  this  service.  As  it  was  of 
importance  that  no  time  should  be  lost  in  acquiring  this  information, 
they  had  very  little  time  allowed  to  prepare  them  for  so  long,  and 
to  seamen,  so  unusual  a  journey  ;  but  as  the  mode  of  travelling  in 
that  rude  country  admitted  but  few  incumbrances,  the  omission  of 
these  preparations  was  of  less  consequence. 

,  In  order  to  reach  a  tolerable  halting-place  for  the  night,  the  first 
(la^'s  journey  was  necessarily  long,  and  consequently  by  daylight  on 
llie  9th  November  the  three  officers  were  on  the  road  to  the  mission  ; 
liaving  found  horses  and  an  escort  prepared  in  pursuance  of  previous 
arrangements. 

Setting  off  at  a  round  trot,  they  made  the  best  of  their  way  over 
three  or  four  miles  of  ground  so  overgrown  with  dwarf  oaks  and 
other  trees,  that  they  were  every  moment  in  danger  of  being  thrown 
frnni  their  horses,  or  having  their  eyes  torn  out  by  the  branches  as 
they  passed.  In  half  an  hour,  however,  they  reached  the  mission 
of  San  Francisco,  and  soon  forgot  the  little  annoyances  they  had 
hitherto  met  with  in  the  hospitable  welcome  of  the  good  priest,  who 
regaled  them  with  excellent  pears  and  new  milk.  Nor  was  his  con- 
versation less  palatable  than  his  cheer  ;  for,  notwithstanding  the 
introduction  of  half  a  dozen  unnecessary  si  senors  in  each  sentence, 
lie  contrived  to  amuse  the  vacant  time  with  a  flow  of  most  genuine 
humour,  for  which  Tomaso  was  always  prepared,  till  the  rattling 
accoutrements  of  a  Californian  dragoon  announced  the  arrival  of  the 
passport  from  the  governor.  Intrusting  their  baggage  to  the  care  of 
Uvo  vaqueros  (Indian  cattle  drivers)  who  were  to  accompany  them, 
and  receiving  each  a  blessing  from  the  padre,  they  set  off  with  their 
escort  about  ten  o'clock  in  the  forenoon.     The  cavalcade  consisted 


,«•' 


«i 


■*•■ 


y  J 


^^ 


316 


VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


Nov 


I 


'H' 


of  ti.ree  officers  of  the  Blossom,  the  two  vaqueros,  and  their  cham- 
pion the  dragoon,  proceeded  by  nine  or  ten  loose  horses,  ''liven  on 
before  as  a  relay,  to  be  used  when  those  they  mounted  siiould  be- 
come fatigued.  Thes"  Rozinantes  are  not  much  inclined  to  devi- 
ate  from  the  road,  but  if  any  thing  should  inspire  them  witli  a  spir- 
it  of  straying,  the  "nnerring  lasso,  the  never-failing  appendage  to  a 
CaiiMrnian  saddlebow,  soon  embraces  their  neck  or  their  feet,  and 
brings  them  back  af  ain  to  tlie  riglit  way. 

I  must  not,  however,  permit  the  party  to  proceed  without  intro- 
ducing to  the  notice  of  the  reader  tl;'?   costume  and  equipments  of 
this  dragoon  of  California.     As  for  hi?  person,  I  do  not  find  it  de- 
scribed, but  bis  dress  consisted  of  a  round   blue  cloth  jacket  with 
red  cuffs  and  collar  ;  blue  velvet  breeches,  which  being  unbuttoned 
at  the  knees,  gave  greater  display  tc  a  pair  of  white  cotton  stock- 
ings, cased  more  than  half  way  in  a  pair  of  deer-skin  boots.     A 
black  hat,  as  broad  in  the  urim  as  ix  was  disproportionably  low  in 
the  crown,  kept  in  older,  by  its  own  weight,  a  profusion  of  dark 
hair,  which  met  behind,  and  dangled  half  way  down  the  backimhe 
form  of  a  thick  q      \e.     A  long  musket,  with   a  fox  skin  bound 
round  the  lock,  was  balanced  upon  the  pummel  of  the  saddle  ;  and 
our  hero  was  further  provided  for  defence  against  the  Indians  with  a 
bull's  hide  shield,  rn  which,  notwithstanding  the  revolution  of  the 
colony,  were  emblazoned  the  royal  arms  of  Spain,  and  by  a  double- 
fold  deer  skin  cn'rarjs  as  a  covering  for  his  body.      Thus  accoutred 
he  bestrode  asadd'e,  which  retained  him  in  his  seat  by  a  high  puu'- 
mel  in  front  and  ;>  corresponding  rise  behind.     His  feet  were  ai.lied 
at  the  heels  with  a  tremendous  pair  of  iron  spurs,  secured  by  a  met- 
al chain  ;  arid  were  thrust  through  an  enormous  pair  of  wooden  box 
shaped  sti:  ups.     Sucli  wps  the  person  into  whose  charge  our  ship- 
mates were  placed  by   the  governor,  with  a  pas?port  which  com- 
manded him  not  to  permit  any  person  to  interfere  with   the  party, 
either  in  its  advance  or  on  its  return,  and  that  it  was  tc  be  escorted 
from  place  to  place  by  a  soldier. 

Leaving  the  mission  of  San  Francisco,  tho  party  receded  from 
the  only  part  of  the  country  tliat  is   wooded  for  any  considerate 
distance,  and  ascended  a  chain  of  hills  about  a  thousand  feet  in 
height,  where  they  had  an  extensive  view,  comprehending  the  sea, 
the  Farallones  rocks,  and  the  distant  Punta  de  los   Reyes,  a  head- 1 
land  so  named  by  the  expedition  under  Sebastian  Viscaino  in  1(502, 
The  ridge  which  afforded  this  wide  prospect  was  called  Sierra  de 
San  Bruno,  and  for  the  most  part  was  covered  with  a  burnt-up  I 
grass,  but  such  places  as  were  bare  presented  to  the  eye  of  the  | 
geologist,  rocks  of  sandstone  conglonier,ite,  intersected  by  a  few 
veins  of  jaspar.     Winding  t\  rough  the  Sierra  de  San  Bruno,  they 
cross. d  a  river  oi'  that  name,  and  opened  out  the  broad  arm  of  the! 


ind  their  cliam- 
>rses.  ''liven  on 


AND    BEEUINg's    STRAIT 


317 


sea  ^vliich  leads  from  th«  port  to  Santa  Clara,  and  is  confined  be- 
tween the  chain  they  were  traversing  and  the  Sierra  de  los  Bol- 
bones,  distinguishable  at  a  distance  by  a  peaked  mountain  3,783 
feet  high  by  trigonometrical  measurement.  Upon  the  summit  of 
that  part  of  the  sierra  bordering  the  arm  ».  f  sea  called  Estrecho  de 
San  Jose,  a  thick  wood,  named  Palos  Colorados  from  its  consisting 
principally  of  red  cedar  pine,  stands  conspicuous  on  the  ridge.  I 
nientici  this  particularly,  and  wish  to  call  attention  to  the  circum- 
stance, as  the  straggling  trees  at  the  south  extreme  of  the  wood 
are  used  as  landmarks  for  avoiding  a  dangerous  rock  which  v-e  dis- 
covered in  the  harbour,  and  named  after  llie  Blossom. 

About  noon  they  reached  a  small  cottage  named  Burri  Burri, 
about  twelve  miles  from  San  Francisco ;  and  being  unused  to  trav- 
elling, especially  upon  Californian  saddles,  which  are  by  no  means 
constiiicted  for  comfort,  they  determined  to  rest,  until  the  baggage 
iliat  had  been  left  in  the  rear  should  overtake  them.  The  house  in 
ivliich  they  lodged  was  a  small  miserable  mud  cottage  full  of  holes, 
nhich,  however,  at/orded  them  some  repose  and  some  new  milk. 
its  inhabitan'.s  had  been  engaged  in  tanning,  in  which  process  they 
Used  a  liqniu  extracted  from  oak  bark,  contained  in  a  hide  suspend- 
ed by  liie  corners.  They  had  also  collected  in  great  quantities  a 
I  very  useful  root  called  in  that  country  amoles,  which  seems  to  an- 
swer all  the  purposes  of  soap. 

Fiom  Burri  Burri,  a  continuation  of  the   Sierra  de  San   Bruno 
I  passes  along  the  centre  of  tlie  peninsula  formed  by  the  sea  and  the 
lEstrc'cho  de  Sa  i  Jose,  and  h  separatee'  from  this  arm  of  the  har- 
jbourby  a  plain,  upon  which  the  traveiliJrs  now  descended  from  the 
mountains,  and  journeyed  at  a  more  easy  and   agreeable  rate   than 
iliey  had  done  on  the  rugged  paths  among  the  hills.      This  plain 
hear  the  sea  is  marshy,  and  having  obtained  the  name  of  Las  Sa- 
liiiias  is  probably  overflowed  occasionally  by  the  sea.     The  number 
of  ..ild  geese  whlc):  frequent  it  is  quite  extraordinary,  and  indeed 
jnould  hardly  be  credited  by  any  one  who  had  not  seen  them  cov- 
je    J  whole  acres  of  ground,  or  rising  in  myriads  with  a  clang  that 
I  may  be  heard  at  a  very  considerable  distance.      They  are   said  to 
[arrive  in  California  in  November,  and  to  remain  there  until  March. 
Tlieir  flesh  in  general  is  hard  ana  fishy,  but  it  was  reported  by   pa- 
dre Luis  Gil,  of  the  mission  of  Santa  C  -uz,  that  those  which   have 
I  yellow  feet  are  exceptions  to  this,  and  are  excellent  eating.      The 
blackbirds  are  almost  equally  numerous,  and  in  their  distant  flight 
jrcscniWe  clouds.     Among  the  marshes  there  were  also  a  great  many 
[itorks  and  cranes,  which  in  San  Francisco  have  the   reputation  of 
affordins:;  a  most  delicious  repast. 

Travelling  onward,  the  hills  on  their  right,  known  in  that  part  as 
tlie  Sierra  del  Sur,  began  to  a,iproach  the  road,  which  passing  over 


Mi 


^^  — 4«^ 


1 


318 


VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[Noi, 


4 


w 


„  _  ¥ ' 


fk:\if^:H 


a  small  eminence,  opened  out  upon  a  wide  country  of  meadow  land 
with  clusters  of  fine  oak  free  from  underwood.  It  strongly  resenib. 
led  a  nobleman's  park :  herds  of  cattle  and  horses  were  grazing 
upon  the  rich  pasture,  and  numerous  fallow-deer,  startled  at  tlie 
approach  of  strangers,  bounded  off  to  seek  protection  among  tlie 
hills.  The  resemblance,  however,  could  be  traced  no  further.  Ii,. 
stead  of  a  noble  mansion,  in  character  with  so  fine  a  country,  the 
party  arrived  at  a  miserable  mud  dwelling,  before  the  door  of  wbldi 
a  number  of  half-naked  Indians  were  basking  in  the  sun.  Several 
dead  geese,  deprived  of  their  entrails,  were  fixed  upon  pegs  aroiUKJ 
a  large  pole,  for  the  purpose  of  decoying  the  living  game  into  snares, 
which  were  placed  for  them  m  favourable  situations.  Heaps  of  I 
bones  also  of  various  animals  were  lying  about  the  place,  and  sadly 
disgraced  the  park-like  scenery  around.  Ti)is  spot  i?  named  Saii 
Matheo,  and  belongs  to  the  mission  of  San  Francisco. 

Quitting  this  spot,  they  arrived  at  a  farm-house  about  half  wav 
between  San  Francisco  and  Santa  Clara,  called  Las  Pulgas  (fleas); 
a  name  which  afforded  much  mirth  to  our  travellers,  in  which  tliey 
were  heartily  joined,  by  the  inmates  of  the  dwelling,  who  were  very 
well  aware  that  the  name  had  not  been  bestowed  without  ,^ause,  | 
It  was  a  miserable  habitation,  with  scarcely  any  furniture,  surround- 
ed by  decaying  hides  and  bones.      Still,    fatigue    renders   repose  I 
sweet  upon  whatsoever  it  can  be  indulged,  and  our  party  were  glad 
enough  to  stretch  themselves  awhile  upon  a  creaking  couch,  tliel 
only  one  in  the  hut,  notwithstanding  that  the  owner  had  a  n-^'iier- 
ous  family.     Here,  had  there  been  accommodation,  and  had  tliel 
place  not  acquired  the  reputation   its  name  conveys,  they   wouldj 
willingly  have  ended  their  day's  journey ;  but  the  idea  of  las  f 
gas,  sufficiently  numerous  in  all  the  houses  of  California,  deteiiiiiii-i 
ed  them  to  proceed  as  soon  as  they  conveniently  could.    The  plain! 
still  continued  animated  with   herds  of  cattle,   horses,   and  slieepl 
grazing  ;  but  the  noble  clusters  of  oak  were  now  varied  with  shrub-[ 
beries,  which  afforded  a  retreat  to   numerous  coveys  of  Californianj 
patridges,  of  which  handsome  species  of  game  the  first  specimen  wail 
brought  to  England  by  the  Blossom,  and  is  now  living  in   the  gar-l 
dens  of  the   Zoological  Society.     They  are   excellent  food ;  i 
the  birds,  in  the  country  now  under  description,  are  so  tarae  tliati 
they  would  often  not  start  from  a  stone  directed  with  Indian  skill. 

The  sun  went  down  before  they  reached  Santa  Clara,  which  wasl 
to  terminate  that  day's  journey,  and,  being  unaccustomed  to  rldeJ 
the  whole  party  were  thoroughly  fatigued.  Indeed,  so  wearying 
was  the  journey  even  to  the  animals  that  bore  them,  that  but  fortiiel 
relays  of  horses,  which  were  now  brought  in  with  a  lasso,  tlie\i 
might  have  been  compelled  to  pass  the  night  upon  the  plain  among 
the  geese,  the  jackals,  and  the  bears,  which  in  the  vicinity  of  Sand 


182G.] 


AND    BEERINO*S    STRAIT. 


319 


'4 


Clara  are  by  no  means  scarce.  The  pleasure  of  removing  from  a 
jaded  horse  to  one  that  is  fresh  is  not  unknown  probably  to  my 
readers,  and  our  party  rode  in  comparative  comfort  the  remainder 
of  the  journey,  and  reached  the  mission  of  Santa  Clara  at  eight 
o'clock. 

Santa  Clara,  distant  by  the  road  about  forty  miles  from  San 
Francisco,  is  situated  in  the  extensive  plain  before  described,  which 
here,  however,  becomes  more  marshy  than  that  part  of  the  ground 
over  which  they  had  just  travelled.     It  nevertheless  continues  to  be 
occupied  by  herds  of   cattle,  horses,  sheep,  and  flocks  of  geese. 
Here,  also,  troops  of  jackals  prowl  about  in  the  most  daring  manner, 
making  the  plain  resound  witli  their  melancholy  bowlings  ;  and  in- 
deed both  wild  and  domesticated  animals  seem  to  lose  their  fear  and 
become  familiar  with  their  tyrant  man.     The  buildings  of  the  estab- 
lisnment,  which  was  founded  in    1768,  consist   of  a   church,  the 
dnelling-hr use  of  the  priests,  and  five  rows  of  buildings  for  the 
accommodiition  of  1,400   Indians,  who,  smce   Vancouver's   visits, 
jkve  been  thus  provided  with  comparatively  comfortable  dwellings, 
instead  of  occupying  straw  huts,  which  were  always  wet  and  miser- 
I  f,ble.     Attached  to  these  are  so.ne  excellent  orchards,  producing  an 
abundance  of  apples  and  pears.     Olives  and  grapes  are  also  plen- 
tiful, and  th  a  padres  are   ennbled  to  make  from  the  latter  about 
twenty  barrels  of  wine  annually.     They  besides  grow  a  great  quan- 
tity of  wheat,  beans,  peas,  and  other  vegetables.      On  the  whole 
I  this  is  one  of  the  best  regulated  and  ?nost  cleanly  missions  in  the 
[country.     Its  herds  of  cattle  amount  to  10,000  in  number,  and  of 
llorses  there  are  about  300. 

When  our  travellers  visited  the  mission  it  was  governed  by  padres 
I  Jose  and  Machin,  two  priests  of  the  mendicant  order  of  '^'iii  Fran- 
Itisco,  to  which  class  belong  all  the  priests  in  Upper  'ifornia. 
JTliey  appeared  to  lead  a  comforiable  life,  though  not  over  well  pro- 
Ivided  with  its  luxuries. 

We  will  not,  however,  piy  too  narrowly  into  the  internal  arrange- 
Iraents  of  the  good  fathers'  dwelling ;  let  it  suffice,  that  they  gave 
jour  travellers  a  cordial  welcome,  and  entertained  them  at  their 
[board  in  a  most  hospitable  manner.  After  joining  them  in  a  dram 
jof  aquadente,  they  allowed  their  guests  to  retire  to  their  sleeping 
[apartment,  where,  stretched  upon  couches  of  bull-hide,  as  tough 
land  impenetrable  as  the  cuirass  of  their  friend  the  dragoon  (who 
[left  them  at  this  place),  they  soon  fell  asleep — thanks  to  excessive 
[weariness — and  slept  as  soundly  as  las  pulgas  would  let  them. 

Having  breakfasted  the  following  morning  with  the  padres,  and 
[being  provided  with  fresh  horses,  a  new  escort  and  vaqueros,  the 
[party  was  about  to  start,  but  were  delayed  by  the  punishment  of 
[an  Indian  who  had  stolen  a  blanket,  for  which  he  received  two  doz- 


h  •:■ 


I       ■:< 


I     ( 


H: 


^20 


VOYAGE  TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[Nov] 


en  lashes  with  a  leathern  thong  upon  that  part  of  the  human  frame 
which,  we  learn  from  Hudibras,  is  the  most  susceptible  of  insult.' 
Some  other  Indians  were  observed  to  be  heavily  shackled,  but  thol 
causes  of  their  punishment  were  not  stated. 

A  beautiful  avenue  of  trees,  nearly  three  miles  in  length,  leads i 
from  the  mission  to  the  pueblo  of  San  Jose,  the  largest  settlement  I 
of  the  kind  in  Upper  California.  It  consist  of  mud-houses  miser. 
ably  provided  in  every  respect,  and  contains  about  500  inhabitants! 
— retired  soldiers  and  their  families,  who  under  the  old  governmentj 
were  allowed  the  privilege  of  fc  ming  settlements  of  this  nature  [ 
and  had  a  quantity  of  ground  allotted  to  them  for  the  use  of  tlieirj 
cattle.  They  style  themselves  Gente  de  Razon,  to  distinguislij 
them  from  the  Indians,  whose  intellectual  qualities  are  frequent  sub-l 
jects  of  animadversion  amongst  these  enlightened  communities.i 
They  are  governed  by  an  alcalde,  and  have  a  chapel  of  their  own  1 
at  which  one  of  the  ])riests  of  the  mission  occasionally  officiates. 

About  eighteen  miles  from  Santa  Clara,  the  party  alighted  uponi 
the  banks  of  a  limpid  stream,  the  first  they  had  seen  in  their  ride.l 
It  was  too  favourable  a  spot  to  be  passed,  and  placing  some  millcj 
and  pears,  which  had  been  furnished  by  the  hospitable  priests  attliel 
mission,  under  the  cool  shade  of  an  aliso-tree,  they  regaled  thein-f 
selves  for  a  few  minutes,  and  then  resumed  their  journey.  At  t'lel 
distance  of  eight  leagues  from  Santa  Clara,  they  passed  some  re-j 
markable  hills  near  the  coast  named  El  ojo  del  coche;  and  a  fewj 
miles  further  on,  they  descended  into  the  plain  of  Las  Llagas,io\ 
called  from  a  battle  which  took  place  between  the  first  settlers  aiiii| 
the  Indians,  in  wiiich  many  of  the  former  were  wounded.  Stop{ 
ping  towards  the  extremity  of  this  fertile  plain  at  some  cottawiJ 
named  Ranchas  de  les  animas,  the  only  habitations  they  had  seenf 
since  the  morning,  they  dined  upon  some  jerk  beef,  which,  accoid-l 
ing  to  the  old  custom  in  this  and  other  Spanish  colonies,  was  servedjj 
in  silver  dishes.  Silver  cups  and  spoons  were  also  placed  befurel 
our  travellers,  offering  a  singular  incongruity  with  the  humble  wood-l 
en  benches,  that  were  substituted  for  chairs,  and  with  the  wliolel 
arrangement  of  the  room,  which,  besides  the  board  of  smoking 
jerk  beef,  contained  beds  for  the  family,  and  a  horse  harnessed 
a  flour  mill. 

Leaving  Llano  de  las  Llngas,  they  ascended  a  low  range  of  hil 
and  arrived  at  a  river  appropriately  named  Riode  los  Paxaros,  from 
the  number  of  wild  ducks  which  occasionally  resort  thither.  Tlia 
banks  of  this  river  are  thickly  lined  with  wood,  and  being  very  steea 
in  many  places,  the  party  wound,  with  some  difficulty,  round 
trunks  of  the  trees  and  over  the  inequalities  of  the  ground ;  bul 
their  Californian  steeds,  untrammelled  with  shoes,  and  accustonieij 
to  all  kinds  of  ground,  never  once  stumbled.     They  rode  for  so'.i«^ 


lf,26.] 


AND    BLiERING  S    STRAIT. 


321 


tinie  along  the  banks  of  this  river,  though  so  much  broken,  were 
very  agreeable,  and  crossing  the  stream  a  few  miles  lower  down, 
tliey  left  it  to  make  its  way  to-.vards  the  sea  in  a  south-west  direc- 
lion,  and  themselves  entered  upon  the  Llano  de  San  Juan,  an  ex- 
tensive plain  surrounded  by  mountains.  It  should  have  been  told, 
before  the  party  reached  thus  far,  that  as  they  were  riding  peacea- 
bly over  the  Llano  de  Jas  Animas,  the  clanking  of  their  guide's 
liuge  broadsword,  which  had  been  substituted  for  the  long  musket 
of  the  soldier  from  th^  oresidio,  drew  the  attention  of  the  party  to 
bis  pursuit  of  a  wild  mountain-cat,  which  he  endeavoured  to  en- 
snare with  his  lasso  for  the  sake  of  its  skin,  which  is  said  to  be 
valuable.  Two  of  these  cats,  which  in  species  approach  the  oce- 
lot, were  shot  by  our  sportsmen  at  San  Francisco.  Their  skins 
irere  preserved  to  be  brought  to  this  country,  but  on  opening  the 
1  collection  they  were  not  found,  and  we  have  reason  to  suspect  that 
a  man  who  assisted  the  naturalist,  disposed  of  these,  as  well  as 
other  specimens,  to  his  own  advantage. 

Twilight  approached  as  the  party  drew  near  to  the  njission  of 
I  San  Juan,  where  they  alighted,  after  a  ride  of  fifty-four  miles,  just 
as  the  bell  tolled  for  vespers,   and,  stiff  and   tired,  gladly   availed 
themselves  of  the  accommodation  afforded  by  padre  Arroyo  who  in 
hospitality  and  good  humour  endeavoured  to  exceed  even  the  good 
fa. bar  of  Santa  Clara.     This  worthy  man  was  a  native  of  Old 
[Castile,  and  had  resided  in  Californian  since  1804,  dividing  his  time 
Ibetween  the  duties  of   his  holy  avocation,  and  various  ingenious 
jinventions.     Supper  was  served  in  very  acceptable  time  to  the  fa- 
liigued  visitors,  and  the  good-natured  padre  used  every  persusaion 
llo  induce  them  to  do  justice  to  his  fare  ;    treating  them  to  several 
jappropriote  proverbs,  such  as  "  Un  dia  alegre  vale  cien  anos  de 
Ipesadumbre,"  (one  day  of  mirth  is  worth  a  hundred  years  of  grief,) 
land  many  more  to  the  same  purpose.     Though  so  many  summers 
Iliad  passed  over  his  head  in   exile,  his  cheerfulness  seemed  in  no 
jffay  diminished,  and  lie  entertained  his  guests  with  a  variety  of  an- 
ecdotes of  the  Indians  and  of  their  encounters  with  the  bears  too 
long  to  be  repeated  here.     Nor  was  his  patriotism  more  diminished 
than  his  cheerfulness,  and  on  learning  that  one  of  tlie  party  had 
Ibeen  at  the  siege  of  Cadiz,  his  enthusiasm  broke  forth  in  the  cele- 
Ibraled  Spanish  patriotic  song  of  "  Espana  de  la  guerra,"  &i,c.     Hav- 
ling  served  them  with  what  he  termed  the  vlatico,  consis'ing  of  a 
Iplentiful  supply  of  cold  fricole  beans,  bread,  and  eggs,  lie  led   the 
Iparty  to  their  sleeping  apartment  amidst  prora;>3s  of  horses  for  the 
Imorrow,  aud  patriotic  songs  of  his  country  adapted  to  the  well-known 
jai'- of  Malbrook.     Interrupting  the  good  man's  entl;usiasm,  they 
lendcavoured  to  persuade  the  priest  to  allow  them  to  proceed  early 
jiii  the  morning,  before  t|^e  commencement  of  mass  ;  thi^,  however, 

41 


*•/ 


U 


'(\ 


3'22 


VOYAOE    TO    THK    PACIFIC 


[Xov. 


Iff 


1^ 


;'& 


was  impossible,  and  he  shut  thcni  into  their  apartment,  repeating  the 
proverb,  "  Oir  misa  y  dar  cebada  no  impede  Jornada"  (to  hear  mass 
and  bestow  alms  will  not  retard  your  jonrney.) 

When  the  morning  came,  it  was  a  holiday,  and  the  vaqneros,  not 
at  all  disposed  to  lose  their  recreation,  had  decamped  with  the  sad- 
dles, and  the  party  were  obliged  to  pass  the  day  at  San  Juan.    Af- 
ter a  small  cup  of  chocolate,  and  a  strip  of  dry  bread,  the  only 
meal  ever  served  in  the   missions  until   twelve  o'clock,  the  party 
strolled  over  the  grounds,  and  visited  about  thirty  huts  belonging  to 
some  nnwly  converted  Indians  of  the  tribe  of  Toolerayos  (bulrush. 
cs.)     'ii.i'r  tents  were  about  thirty-five  feet  in  circumference,  con. 
structed  with  pliable  poles  fixed  in  the  ground  and  drawn  together 
at  the  top,  to  the  height  of  twelve  or  fifteen  feet.     They  are  then 
interwoven  with  small  twigs  and  covered  with  bulrushes,  havinn  an 
aperture  at  the  side  to  admit  the  inhabitants,  and  another  at  tiietop  j 
to  let  out  the  smoke.      The  exterior  appearance  of  these  wretched 
wigwams  greatly  resembles  a  bee-hive.     In  each  dwelling  were  nine 
or  ten  Indians  of  both  sexes,  and  of  all  ages,  nearly  in   a  state  of 
nudity,  huddled  round  a  fire  kindled  in  the  centre  of  the  apartment, 
a  prey  to  vermin,  and  presenting  a  picture  of  misery  and  wretched- 
ness seldom  beheld  in  even  the  most  savage  state  of  society.     They  [ 
seemed  to  have  lost  all  the  dignity  of  their  nature  ;  even  the  black 
birds  (oriolus  niger)  had  ceased  to  regard  them  as  human  beiiiij?, 
and  were  feeding  in  flocks  among  the  wigwams.     This  was  said  to  I 
be  the  state  in  which  the  Indians  naturally  live,  and  the  reader  will 
not  be  surprised  to  hear  that  this  party  had  voluntarily  come  fromj 
the  mountains  to  be  converted,  and  to  join  their  civilized  brethrcnl 
at  the  mission.     Happy  would  it  be  for  these  savages  could  theybel 
once  taught  to  make  a  proper  use  of  that  freedom  which  ougiit  toj 
follow  their  conversion  to  the  pure  religion  of  Christ,  even  undeil 
the  restrained  form  of  Catholicism,  that  their  minds  might  become  j 
by  this  means  sufliciently  improved  to  allow  of  their  settling  in  in- 
dependent Christian  communities  ;  but,  judging  from  their  presentl 
mental  capacity,  it  must  be  long  before  so    great   and    desirable  al 
change  can  be  effected.     The  experiment  of  liberating  the  Indians! 
has  been  tried  and  has  failed  ;  and  appearances  certainly  justify  tliel 
assertion  that  the  Indian  is  happier  under  control  than  while  indulg-l 
ing  his  free  soul  in  the  wilds  of  his  native  country. 

What  might  seem  a  remarkable  example  of  this  was  met  with  onj 
turning  from  the  dwelling  of  wretchedness  just  described  to  a  scenel 
of  the  greatest  mirth  and  happiness  amongst  some  converted  Indi-j 
ans,  who  were  passing  their  holiday  in  amusement.  Some  were] 
playing  at  takcrsia,  a  game  which,  as  already  described,  consists 
trundling  a  hoop,  or  rather  a  piece  of  wood  with  a  hole  in  it,  and! 
in  endeavouring  to  pierce  it  with  a  short  l^nce  as  it  rolls.     Anotlier| 


[Nov.  i  1826J 

3nt,  repeating  the 
la"  (to  hear  mas>< 

the  vaqueros,  not 
ped  with  the  sad- 
it  San  Juan.  Af. 
bread,  the  only 
)'clock,  the  party 
huts  belonging  to 
olerayos  (bulrush- 
rcumference,  con- 
d  drawn  together 

They  arc  then 
Irushes,  having  an 
another  at  the  top 
of  these  wretched 
dwelling  were  nine 
arly  in  a  state  of] 
e  of  the  apartment, 
sery  and  wretcbed- 
of  society.  They 
•e  ;  even  the  black  | 
as  human  beings,. 

This  was  said  to] 
and  the  reader  \vi 
ntarily  come  from  I 
civilized  brethren 
ages  could  they  be  I 
m  which  ought  to 

irist,  even  undetl 
inds  might  become 
leir  settling  in  in- 1 
from  their  present! 

and  desirable  al 
lerating  the  IndiansI 
ertainly  justify  tlie| 

than  while  induli- 

•^'  1     I 

lis  was  met  witli  oni 

escribed  to  a  scene 

le  converted  Imli-f 

lent.      Some  werej 

scribed,  consists  in! 

a  hole  in  it,  'm 

it  rolls.     Anotherl 


AND    BKEKINCi  S    STKAIT. 


3-23 


party  were  playing  at  a  game  resembling  hoclcoj,  and  in  various 
parts  of  the  plain  adjoining  the  mission  many  others  were  engaged 
in  pleasnt  recreations,  passing  their  day  in  exercise,  content,  and 
enjoyment. 

In  the  neighbouring  meadows  there  were  several  large  herds  of 
cattle ;  and  the  geese  settled  there  in  (locks,  as  at  the  mission  of 
Santa  Clara.  The  rocks,  where  they  protruded,  were  ascertain- 
ed by  Mr.  Collie  to  be  sand-stone  conglomerate  with  a  calcareous 
basis. 

The  welcome  peals  of  the  mission  bell  assembled  the  party  at 
dinner ;  but  the  padre,  who  for  some  time  before  had  been  earnestly 
engaged  in  endeavouring  to  convert  one  of  his  heretic  guests,  was 
unwilling  to  quit  the  train  of  theological  disquisitions  which  in  his 
own  opinion  he  had  almost  brought  to  successful  issue,  until  re- 
minded by  his  other  visitors,  who  had  not  been  accustomed  to  go 
so  long  without  their  breakfast,  that  they  required  something  more 
substantial. 

I  will  not  attempt  to  stimulate  the  appetite  of  my  reader  by  enu- 
merating the  various  exquisite  dishes  which  successively  smoked  on 
the  board  of  the  generous  priest,  suffice  it  that  there  were  many 
food  ones,  as  the  padres  in  California  are  careful  to  have  their  table 
well  supplied  at  all  times  of  the  year,  and  have  an  indulgence  from 
the  pope  to  eat  meat  even  during  the  greater  part  of  Lent,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  difficulty  of  procuring  fish. 

Having  performed  the  honours  of  the  table,  padre  Arroyo  retired 
to  indulge  his  usual  siesta  :  this,  however,  caused  but  a  brief  sus- 
pension to  the  efforts  he  most  industrioyly  continued  to  make,  for 
die  purpose  of  converting  his  heretical  opponent  to  the  true  faith, 
reading  him  innumerable  lectures  in  refutation  of  the  Ijutheran  and 
Calvinistic  doctrines,  and  in  favour  of  the  pope's  s'-.^/tumacy,  infal- 
libility, and  power  of  remitting  offences. 

It  more  than  once  occurred  to  the  party — and  I  believe,  not  with- 
out good  foundation  for  their  opinion — tiiat  it  was  the  hope  of  suc- 
cess in  this  conversion  which  occasioned  all  the  little  lUiiiceuvring 
to  delay  them,  that  I  have  before  described.  But  having  at  length 
given  his  pupil  over  as  irrevocably  lost,  he  consented  to  their  de- 
parture on  the  following  morning.  Tlic  padre  appeared  to  be  of 
an  active  mind,  and  had  constructed  a  water-clock  which  commu- 
nicated with  a  bell  by  his  bedside,  and  which  by  being  arranged  at 
night  could  be  made  to  give  an  alarm  at  any  stated  hour. 

It  was  here  that  our  travellers  were  surprised  at  the  intelligence 
of  the  north-west  passage  having  been  effected  by  a  Spaniard, 
and  were  not  a  little  amused  at  the  idea  of  having  stumbled  upon 
the  long-sought  north-west  passage  in  an  obscure  mission  of  Cali> 
fornia. 


Ljm\ 


"4^' 


V. 


334 


VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[Nov. 


4  I    I 


The  padre,  however,  was  quite  in  earnest,  and  produced  a  work 
published  by  the  Duke  of  Ahnodobar,  Director  of  the  Royal  Acad- 
emy in  Spain,  in  which  was  transcribed  at  full  length  the  fictitious 
voyage  of  Maldonado.  It  was  in  vain  they  endeavoured  to  per- 
suade  the  padre  that  this  voyage  was  not  real,  seeing  that  it  bore 
even  in  its  detail  all  the  marks  of  truth,  and  that  it  emanated  from 
such  high  authority.  His  credulity  in  this  instance  affords  a  curi- 
ous proof  of  the  very  secluded  manner  in  which  these  holy  men 
pass  their  time,  for  it  may  be  remembered,  that  it  was  in  the  very 
ports  of  California  that  both  Vancouver  and  Quadra  anchored,  af- 
ter having  satisfactorily  proved  the  voyage  in  question  to  have  been 
a  fabrication. 

A  still  greater  instance  of  the  simplicity  of  the  priest  is  related 
at  his  expense  by  persons  in  the  mission.  A  youthful  Indian  couple 
who  had  conceived  an  affection  for  each  other  eloped  one  day,  that 
they  miglit  enjoy  each  other's  society  without  reserve  in  the  wild 
and  romantic  scenery  of  the  forests.  Soldiers  were  immediate]}' 
sent  in  pursuit,  when,  after  a  week's  search,  the  fugitives  were 
brought  back ;  upon  which  padre  Arroyo,  to  punish  their  misbe- 
haviour, incarcerated  them  together,  and  kept  them  thus  confined 
until  he  thought  they  had  expiated  their  crime. 

In  addition  to  his  other  manifold  accomplishments,  padre  Arroyo 
was  a  grammarian,  and  said  that  he  had  written  a  vocabulary  and 
grammar  of  the  Indian  languages,  but  he  could  not  be  prevailed 
upon  to  show  them.  Such  works,  were  they  in  existence,  would,  I 
believe,  be  the  only  ones  of  the  kind ;  and  it  is  a  pity  that  tliey 
should  not  be  given  to  the  world  as  a  matter  of  curiosity,  though  I 
cannot  think  they  would  be  of  much  use  to  a  traveller,  as  the  lan- 
guages of  the  tribes  differ  so  materially,  and  in  such  short  spaces, 
that  in  one  mission  there  were  eleven  totally  different  dialects.  I 
cannot  omit  to  mention  padre  Arroyo's  disquisition  on  the  etymol- 
ogy of  tlie  name  of  the  Peninsula  of  California.  I  shall  observe 
first,  that  it  was  never  known  why  Cortes  gave  to  the  bay  *  whicli 
he  first  discovered,  a  name  which  appears  to  be  composed  of  the 
Latin  words  calida  and  fornax,  signifying  heat  and  furnace,  and 
which  was  afterwards  transferred  to  the  peninsula.  Miguel  Vene- 
gas  supposed  it  arose  from  some  Indian  words  which  Cortes  mis- 
understood, and  Burney,  in  his  history  of  voyages  in  the  Pacific.t 
observes,  that  some  have  conjectered  the  name  to  have  been  given 
on  account  of  the  heat  of  the  weather,  and  says,  it  has  been  re- 
marked that  it  was  the  only  name  given  by  Cortes  which  was  im- 
mediately derived  from  the  Latin  language.     Without  entering  into  | 


♦  B'^rnal  Diaz  de  Castillo,  in  his  "  Conquest  of  Mexico,"  calls  California  a  bay. 
t  Vol.  I.  p.  178,  4to, 


alls  California  a  bay. 


19-26.] 


AND    BEEniNG  S    STRAIT. 


.3iJ5 


a  discussion  of  the  subject,  which  is  not  of  any  moment,  I  sliall 
observe,  that  it  was  thought  in  Monterey  to  have  arisen  in  conse- 
quence of  a  custom  which  prevails  throughout  Cahfornia,  of  the 
Indians  shutting  themselves  in  ovens  until  they  perspire  profusely, 
as  1  have  already  described  in  speaking  of  the  Temeschal.  It  is 
not  improbable  that  the  practice  appeared  so  singular  to  Cortes 
that  he  applied  the  name  of  California  to  the  country,  as  being  one 
in  which  hot  ovens  were  used  for  such  singular  purposes.  Padre 
Arroyo,  however,  maitained  that  it  was  a  corruption  of  colofon, 
ffliich,  in  the  Spanish  language,  signifies  resin,  in  consequence  ol 
the  pine  trees  which  yield  that  material  being  so  numerous.  The 
first  settlers,  he  said,  at  the  sight  of  these  trees  would  naturally  ex- 
claim, "  Colofon,"  which,  by  its  similarity  to  Californo,  (in  the 
Catalonian  dialect,  hot  oven,)  a  more  familiar  expression,  would 
soon  become  changed. 

Our  travellers,  after  taking  leave  of  the  hospitable  and  anmsing 
priest  the  proceding  evening,  with  the  intention  of  preceding  early 
in  the  morning,  experienced  much  delay  in  consequence  of  the  re- 
fusal of  the  guard  to  start  without  hearing  mass  and  receiving  the 
benediction  of  the  priest :  but  at  length  they  quitted  the  plain  of 
San  Juan,  and  ascended  with  difficutly  some  steep  hills  commanding 
a  view  of  the  spacious  bay  of  Monterey.  Then  winding  among 
valleys,  one  of  which  was  well  wooded  and  watered,  they  entered 
an  extensive  plain  called  "  Llano  del  Rey,"  which  until  their  arri- 
val, was  in  the  quiet  possession  of  numerous  herds  of  deer  and  jack- 
als. This  tract  of  land  is  bounded  on  the  north,  east,  and  south- 
east, by  mountains  which  extend  with  a  semicircular  sweep  from  the 
I  sea  at  Santa  Cruz,  and  unite  with  the  coast  line  again  at  Point  Pi- 
jaos.  It  is  covered  with  a  rank  grass,  and  has  very  few  shrubs.  Tn 
traversing  this  plain,  before  they  could  arrive  at  some  ranchos,  nam- 
ed Las  Salinas,  where  they  proposed  to  dine,  the  party  had  to  wade 
ilirough  several  deep  ditches  and  the  Rio  del  Rey,  both  of  which 
were  covered  with  wild  ducks.  The  cottages  called  Las  Salinas  are 
on  the  farm  of  an  old  Scotchman, to  whom  the  land  was  granted  in  con- 
sequence of  some  services  which  he  rendered  to  the  missions.  They 
rested  here,  and  to  the  provision  they  had  brought  with  them  very 
tladly  added  some  pumpkins,  procured  from  the  Indiana.  Hpre, 
also,  they  were  surprised  with  the  novel  occurrence  of  having  water 
brought  to  them  in  baskets,  which  the  Indians  weave  so  close,  that 
when  wet  they  become  excellent  substitutes  for  bowls. 

The  remainder  of  the  plain  over  which  they  passed  toward  Mon- 
terey was  sandy,  and  covered  vv;!th.i\a|rn^nt,^outhernwo^od.^b^^^^ 
liere  and  there  by  dwarf  oaks,  and  shrubs  of  the  syngenesious  class 
of  plants.     As  they  approached  the  town,   pasture  lands,  covered 
with  herds  of  cattle,  succeeded  this  wild  scenery :  and  riding  on- 


4; 


U' 


I 


fi'|;\l''^^felj 


•J'  '  i 


326 


VOVAC.K  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[At 


ward,  trees  of  luxuriant  growth,  houses  scattered  over  tlic  plain,  the 
Tort,  and  llio  shipping  in  the  hay,  announced  the  speedy  tcrniiiiiiiiun 
of  thuir  journey.  At  five  o'clock  in  the  evening  they  aliglited  in 
the  spuaro  at  .Monterey,  and  met  a  kind  recei)tion  from  Mr.  Hart- 
nell,  a  merciianl  belonging  to  the  firm  of  Begg  and  Co.  in  Lima, 
wlio  was  residing  there,  and  who  pressed  them  to  accept  llie  use  of 
his  house  while  they  remained  in  the  town — an  offer  of  which  ilicv 
thankfully  availed  themselves. 

Gonzales,  the  governor  to  whom  the  party  went  to  pay  ihcir  re- 
spects, was  an  oflicer  who  had  been  raised  by  his  own  merit  fiijin 
the  ranks  to  be  captain  of  artillery  and  governor  of  Monterey :  hi? 
family  were  residing  with  him,  and  having  been  educated  in  Mexi- 
co, complained  bitterly  of  their  banishment  to  this  outlandish  part  of 
the  world,  where  the  population,  the  ladies  in  particular,  were  ox- 
tremcly  ignorant,  and  wretched  companions  for  the  Mcxiranus  in- 
stniidas.  Besides,  there  were  no  balls  or  bull-fights  in  Monteiov: 
and  for  all  the  news  they  heard  of  their  own  country,  they  might  a^ 
well  have  been  at  Kamschatka.  To  compensate  for  these  dieadful 
privations,  the  ladies  generally  amused  themselves  in  the  evening 
by  smoking  and  playing  cards,  and  relating  the  perils  they  encoun- 
tered in  the  land  journey  from  Mexico  to  the  shores  of  the  Pacific. 
Politness  and  attention,  however,  were  the  characteristics  of  the 
good  people,  who  offered  our  party  every  assistance  in  their  power 
during  their  stay  at  Monterey. 

Upon  inquiry  after  the  stores  and  medicines  the  ship  stood  in  nwd 
of,  the  result  was  highly  unfavourable  ;  as  there  were  no  medicines 
to  be  had,  and  some  stores  which  were  essential  to  the  ship  could  no- 
where be  procured.  The  exchange  on  bills  was  favourable,  hut 
there  was  no  specie  :  Mr.  Marsh  therefore  purchased  what  stores 
he  could  from  the  inhabitants  and  from  the  shipping  in  the  roads, 
and  arranged  with  a  person  who  had  con^e  out  from  Ireland  for 
the  purpose  of  salting  meat  for  the  Lima  market,  to  cure  a  quantity 
for  the  use  of  the  ship,  and  to  have  it  ready  on  her  arrival  at  MiMiie- 
rey.  They  then  hastened  their  departure  ;  but  the  same  diiiicul- 
ties  arose  about  horses  as  before,  and  they  were  much  inconveni- 
enced in  consequence,  being  obliged  to  alter  a  plan  they  had  con- 
templatofl  of  returnmg'  by  a  different  route.  This,  very  unexperi- 
edly  to  padre  Arroyo,  brought  them  again  under  his  roof.  Tlie 
padre  either  did  not  like  this  second  tax  on  his  hospitality,  or  was 
put  out  of  temper  by  the  increase  of  a  complaint  to  which  he  was 
subject,  as  he  gave  them  a  less  cordial  reception,  and  appeared  very 
little  disposed  to  conversation.  It  was  imagined,  however,  that  he 
"still  entertained  hopes  of  the  conversion  of  one  of  the  party,  and 
that  with  this  view  he  again  occasioned  a  delay  in  furnishing  hor- 
ses for  the  next  day's  journey  ;  offering  as  excuses,  that  some  of  the 


!^ 


'  1 


AHD  BKERINn's  STRAIT. 


3'27 


ver  the  plain,  the 
icedy  tcriuiiiiiiiuii 
they  alighted  in 
from  Mr.  Hart- 
nd  Co.  in  Lima, 
accept  the  use  ui 
let  of  which  ilioy 

to  pay  their  re- 
1  own  merit  Irani 
)f  Monterey :  Im 
lucated  in  Mexi- 
outlandish  part  of 
ticuhir,  were  ox- 
10  Mcxiranus  in- 
lits  in  Munteroy: 
try,  they  might  a^ 
for  these  dreadful 
es  in  the  evenin; 
3rils  they  encoun- 
ires  of  the  Pacific. 
acteristics  of  the 
ice  in  their  power 

ship  stood  in  need 
vere  no  medicines 
le  ship  could  no- 
IS   favourable,  but 
ased  what  stores 
ing  in  the  road?, 
rom   Ireland  lor 
;o  cure  a  quantity 
arrival  at  Moiiie- 
le  same  dillicul- 
inuch  inconveni- 
m  they  had  con- 
very  unexpect- 
his  roof.    The 
ospitality,  or  was 
to  which  he  was 
d  appeared  very 
owever,  that  he 
f  the  party,  and 
I  furnishing  hor- 
thatsonie  of  the 


horses  of  the  mission  were  engaged  by  soldiers  in  pursuit  of  a  Mexi- 
can exile,  who  had  deserted  ;  tiiat  others  had  been  taken  ljy  the 
vaijiicros  to  look  after  a  male  and  female  Indian,  who  had  likewise 
abjconded  ;  and  that  the  rest  were  gone  to  join  the  expedition 
aiainst  Los  Gentiles,  the  Cosemenes.  Vexed  at  this  delay,  the  par- 
w  endeavoured  to  hire  horses  at  their  own  expense,  hut  the  price 
Jtnianded  was  so  exorbitant  that  they  determined  to  wait  the  return 
of  those  that  were  said  to  be  absent. 

It  is  more  tlian  probable  that  some  one  of  my  readers  may  have 
been  in  the  same  predicament — in  a  strange  town,  in  a  strange 
conntry,  with  a  beast  fatigued  to  death,  and  an  urgent  necessity  for 
proceeding ;  he  will  then  easily  remember  the  aimable  and  benevo- 
lent alacrity  with  which  tlie  inhabitants  endeavoured  to  lighten  his 
load  of  every  stray  crown  they  could  obtain  from  him,  on  every  pre- 
tence that  ingenious  cupidity  can  invent.  So  at  least  did  the  good 
people  at  San  Juan,  when  padre  Arroyo  would  no  longer  assist  our 
poor  companions.  Private  horses  could  be  had,  it  was  true,  but  terms 
were  either  thirteen  shillings  sterling  for  the  journey,  or  seventeen 
Mailings  sterling  for  the  purchase  of  the  horse,  which  in  California 
is  considered  so  exorbitant  that  our  shipmates  did  not  think  proper  to 
Hitler  the  imposition,  and  awaited  the  horses  belonging  to  the  mis- 
sion. 

After  a  day's  delay  during  which  they  again  heard  many  invec- 
tives against  the  new  goverment  of  Mexico,  which  had  deprived  the 
priesthood  of  their  salaries,  and  obliged  the  missions  to  ])ay  a  tithe 
iothe  state,  they  resumed  their  journey,  and  arrived  at  San  Fran- 
cisco on  tiie  17th  of  INovember. 

In  this  route  it  will  be  seen  that,  with  the  exception  of  the  mis- 
sions and  pueblos,  the  country  is  almost  uninhabited  ;  yet  the  pro- 
ductive nature  of  the  soil,  when  it  has  been  turned  up  by  the  mis- 
Mons,  and  the  immense  plains  of  meadow  land  over*  which  our  trav- 
ellers passed,  show  with  how  little  trouble  it  might  be  brought  into 
iiisth  cultivation  by  any  farmers  who  could  be  induced  to  settle 
there. 

The  unwelcome  intelligence  brought  by  this  party  of  the  nature 
of  the  supplies  to  be  obtained  at  Monterey,  obliged  me  to  relinquish 
the  plan  1  had  contemplated  of  completing  the  survey  of  that  pr-.rt 
of  the  coast  of  California  which  had  been  left  unfinished  by  Van- 
couver: and  rendered  it  necessary  that  I  should  proceed  direct 
either  to  Canton  or  to  Lima,  as  the  most  likely  places  for  us  to  meet 
with  the  medicines  and  stores "  oi  wTiiciF  we Vere'iii' such  'mim'nent 
need.  The  western  route  of  these  two  afforded  the  best  opportuni- 
ty of  promoting  the  objects  of  the  expedition,  by  bringing  us  into 
ihe  vicinity  of  several  groupes  of  islands  of  doubtful  existence,  at 
^^liicli,  in  the  event  of  their   being  found,  our  time  might  be  useful- 


■»^  * 


^^ 


^ 


fi ;  ,.  ■3: 


328 


VOYACE  TO  THK  PACIFIC 


[A 


or, 


ly  employed  until  it  sliould  be  necessary  to  proceed  to  Herring; 
Strait.  An  additional  reason  for  tliis  decision  was,  a  request  whicli 
I  had  made  to  the  consul  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  if  jiossibk',  tu 
purchase  provision  for  the  ship  at  that  place.  1  therefore  dcttrmin. 
ed,  after  taking  on  board  the  few  stores  that  were  purchased  at 
Monterey,  to  proceed  to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  searching  in  our  way 
thither  for  some  Islands  said  to  have  been  discovered  by  an  Anicri- 
can  vessel,  and  from  thence  prosecute  the  voyage  to  Canton. 

While  we  remained  at  San  Francisco  refitting  the  ship,  tlieboatj 
were  constantly  employed  sounding  and  surveying  the  harbour,  in 
which  the  duty  we  received  every  assistance  from  Martinez,  ti, 
governor,  who  allowed  us  to  enter  the  forts  and  to  take  what  aiidus 
and  measures  we  pleased,  requiring  only  in  return  for  this  indul- 
gence a  copy  of  the  plan,  when  finished,  for  his  own  governmeiit;  I 
liis  proposal  seemed  so  fair  that  I  immediately  acceded  to  it,  and,  on 
my  return  to  the  place  the  following  year,  fully  complied  with  \\\< 
request.  It  is  impossible  to  pass  unnoticed  the  difference  belwe  , 
this  liberal  conduct  of  Martinez  and  that  of  the  former  Spanish  au- 
thorites,  who  watched  all  Vancouver's  actions  with  tlie  greatesil 
suspicion,  and  whose  jealousy  has  been  the  subject  of  animad- 
version of  almost  every  voyager  who  has  touched  at  this  port. 

On  the  12th  of  December  a  salute  was  fired  from  the  battery;! 

higli  mass  was  said  in  all  the  missions,  and  a   grand   entertainment, 

to  which  all  the  officers  were  invited,  was  given  at  the  presidio,  in 

horiour  ol  Santa  Senora  Gaudaloupe.     There  was  also  to  have  Ikiii) 

a  fight  between  a  bear  and  a  bull,  but  for  some  reason  not  knowiol 

us — |)robably  the  trouble  it  required  to  bring  the  animal  so  ki; . 

the  bears  do  not  come  within  many  miles  of  the  presidio — it  did  not! 

take  place  ;  and  we  were  all  greatly  disappointed,  as  we  hadotruredj 

to  reward  the  soldiers  for  their  trouble  and  had   heard  so  much  ofl 

these  exhibitions  from    every   body  that  our   curiosity    had  beiiij 

highly  excited.     This  is  a  favourite  amusement  with   Calilbrnians, 

but  it  is  of  rare  occurrence,  as  there  is  much  trouble  in  gettin;^  a| 

bear  alive  to  the  scene  of  combat,  and  there  is  also  some  risk  and! 

expense  attending  it.     We  were  informed  that  when  a  fight  is  de-j 

termined  upon  three  or  four  horsemen  are  dispatched  with  lassos  toj 

the  woods  where  the  bears  resort,  and  that  when  they  come  to  anj 

advantageous  spot  they  kill  a  horse  or  a  bullock  as  a  bait,  and  liidej 

themselves  in  the  wood.     Sometimes  they  have  to  wait  a  wliolej 

day  or  more  before  any  of  these  animals  appear,  but  when   tlieyi 

come  to' partake  "of  *'tlie"Tob'(i;  tlie  men  seize  a'lavourao?  opportunity,! 

and  rush  upon  them  at  different  points  with  their  lassos,  and  eu-l 

tangle  one  of  them  until  he  is  thrown  upon  the  grouud,  when  theyl 

manage  to  suspend  him  between  the  horsemen,  while  a  third  per^onj 

dismounts  and  ties  his  feet  together ;  he  is  then  extended  upon  al 


[Sot  I   IB2C.] 


las  also  lo  have  brtii 


AND    llEKiUNTr.  9    STRAIT. 


329 


hide  and  ilracfi^ed  lioiuo  ;  diirine;  u  liicli  time  it  is  necessary ,thcy  say, 
to  keep  him  constantly  wet  to  allay  his  thirst  and  iaii;o,  which 
amounts  almost  to  madness — and  woe  he  to  him  wiioshonld  ho  near 
if  lio  were  to  hreaU  away  iVom  his  fasteninj^s.  Tlic  cntanjiiiling  ot" 
the  animal  in  the  (irst  instance  appears  to  he  by  no  means  devoid  of 
ri.sk,  as  in  case  of  the  lailuro  ol'a  lasbo  it  is  only  hy  speed  that  a  ri- 
der can  save  himseir  and  his  horse.  The  Lear  being  canght,  two 
or  three  men  are  dispatched  for  a  wild  bull,  wliich  they  lasso  in  an 
i'i|iiiilly  dexterous  manner,  catchint;;  him  'nher  by  the  horns  or  by 
uiiiclisoever  lug  they  please,  in  order  to  trip  him  up  and  retain  liim 
between  them. 

It  is  necessary  to  begin  the  figlit  as  soon  as  the  animals  are 
brought  in,  as  the  bear  cannot  be  tempted  to  eat,  and  is  continually 
exhausting  himsell'in  struggling  for  his  liberty.  The  two  animals 
are  then  tied  together  by  a  along  rope,  and  the  battle  begins,  some- 
times to  the  disadvantage  of  the  bear,  who  is  half  dead  with  exhaus- 
tion, but  in  the  end  almost  always  proves  fatal  to  the  bull.  It  is  re- 
markable that  all  the  bears  endeavour  to  seize  the  bull  by  the  tongue, 
ht  which  purpose  they  spring  upon  his  head  or  neck  and  first  grap- 
ple with  his  nose,  until  the  pau|.  compels  the  bull  to  roar,  when  his 
adversary  instantly  seizes  his  tongue,  pierces  it  with  bis  sharp  talons, 
and  is  sure  of  victory.  TI'  jsc  battles  were  the  everlasting  topic  ol 
conversation  with  the  Californians,  who  indeed  have  very  little  else 
to  talk  about,  and  they  all  agreed  ns  to  the  manner  ol^  the  fatal  ter- 
mination of  the  spectacle. 

The  lasso,  though  now  almost  entirely  confined  to  Spanish  Amer- 
:fl.  is  of  very  great  antiquity,  and  originally  came  from  the  east. 
It  was  used  by  a  pastoral  people  who  were  of  Persian  descent,  and 
of  whom  8,000  accompanied  the  army  of  Xerxes.* 

By  Christmas-day  we  had  all  remained  sufficiently  long  in  the 
harbour  to  contemplate  our  departure  without  regret :  the  eye  had 
become  familiar  to  the  picturesque  scenery  of  the  bay,  the  pleas- 
ure of  the  .chase  had  lost  its  fascination,  aud  the  roads  to  the  mis- 
sion and  presidio  were  grown  tedious  and  insipid.  There  was  no 
society  to  enliven  the  hours,  no  incidents  to  vary  one  day  from  the 
other,  and,to  use  the  expression  of  Donna  Gonzales,  California 
appeared  to  be  as  much  out  of  the  world  as  Kamschatka. 

On  the  26th,  being  ready  for  sea,  I  was  obliged  to  relinquish  the 
survey  of  this  magnificent  port,  which  possesses  almost  all  the  re- 
(|uisites  for  a  great  naval  establishment,  and  is  so  advantageously 
situated  with  recard  to  Nonh  America -afi4-€i>vria,-aviiilu«Pjitific 
in  general,  that  it  will,  no  doubt,  at  some  future  time,  be  of  great 
importance.     We  completed  the  examination  of  those  parts  of  the 

♦  Renucll  on  the  20  Satrapies  of  Darius  Hystaspcs,  P.  287. 

42 


i 


'V  ■ 


!\ 


"■*?i- 


♦• 


i# 


■ipp"  ■  ■  l»«l 


330 


VOYAGE  TO    THE    PACiriC 


[D 


'ec. 


f'H'' 


m 


If 


'■■t^' 


«> 


harbour  which  were  likely  to  be  frequented  by  vessels  for  some 
years  to  come,  in  which  it  is  proper  tq  mention,  in  order  to  give  as 
much  pu  jlicity  to  the  circumstance  as  possible,  that  we  discovered  a 
rock  between  Alcatrasses  and  Yerba  Buena  Islands,dangerouo  to  both 
shipping  and  boats,  in  consequence  of  its  rising  suddenly  from  about 
seven  fathoms,  so  near  to  the  surface  as  to  occasion  strong  overfalls 
with  the  tides.  A  shoal  was  also  found  to  the  eastward  of  the  landing 
place  off  the  presidio,  which  ought  to  be  avoided  by  boats  sailing 
along  shore. 

On  the  28th  we  took  leave  of  our  hospitable  and  affable  friends, 
Martinez  and  Padre  Tomaso,  full  of  gratitude  for  their  kindness  and 
attention  to  our  wants ;  weiglied  anchor  and  bade  adieu  to  the  Port 
of  San  Francisco,  in  which  we  had  all  received  material  benefit 
from  th  salubrity  of  its  climate,  the  refreshing  product  of  its 
soil  and  the  healthy  exercise  we  had  enjoyed  there.  In  the 
ship's  company  in  particular,  there  was  the  most  apnr  rent  amend- 
ment ;  some  of  them,  from  being  so  emaciated  on  their  arrival 
that  the  surgeon  could  scarcely  recognize  them,  were  now 
restored  to  their  former  healthy  appf"  .ranee,  and  we  had  the  satis- 
faction of  sailing  without  a  single  qmc  of  sickness  on  board.  We 
had  to  regret  during  our  stay  the  loss  of  one  of  our  best  men,  Jo- 
seph  Bowers,  a  marine.  He  had  accompanied  one  of  the  officers 
on  a  shootin,^  excursion,  and  was  led  by  his  naturally  ardent  and 
bold  dispositibn  to  plung  into  a  lake  after  some  wild  fowl  that  had 
been  shot,  forgetting  that  he  could  not,  swim.  Hi^  eagerness  led  him 
beyond  his  depth,  and  in  his  attempt  to  regain  his  footing,  he  unfor- 
tunately perished  before  any  aid  could  be  brought.  His  body  was  | 
interred  at  the  burial  g,round  near  the  presidio  landing-place,  and 
was  followed  to  the  gravei  by  all  the  officers.  As  the  coffin  wasj 
lowering  into  the  ground,  the  good  understanding  that  existed  be- 
tween the  ship's  company  and  the  inhabitants  was  tesitf^ed  in  the  I 
most  gratifying  manner,  by  the  latter  approaching  and  performing 
the  last  office  for  the  deceased,  by  dropping  the  earth  in  upon  his 
coffin.  I  cap.oot  recollect  ever  having  met  with  such  conduct  in  any 
other  foreign  port,  and  the  act,  most  certainly,  did  not  lessen  our! 
regard  for  the  inhabitants. 


% 


«.' 


me.] 


AND    BERRINg's  STRAIT. 


331 


CHAFTER  XIV. 


Observations  on  the  Country  of  California  and  its  Trade — Climate — Meteorological 
Remarks — Short  Account  of  the  Wild  /ndians—  Natural  Productions — Monterey 
—Mission  of  San  Carlos — Departure. 


The  more  we  bec"<wie  acquainted  with  the  beautiful   country 
1  around  San  Francisco,  the  more  we  were  convinced  that  it  possess- 
ed every  requisite  to  render  it  a  valuable  appendage  to  Mexico;  and  it 
iras  impossible  to  resist  joining  in  the  remark  of  Vancouver, "  Why 
such  an  extent  of  territory  should  have  been  subjugated,  and,  after 

the  expensa  and  labour  bestowed  upon  its  colonization,  turned 
I  to  no  account  whatever,  is  a  mystery  in  the  science  of  state  policy 
liot  easily  explained."  Situated  in  the  northern  hemisphere,  be- 
iKen  the  pnrallels  of  22"  and  39°,  no  fault  can  be  found  with  its 
itlimate ;  its  soil  in  general  is  ferdle,  it  possesses  forests  of  oak  and 
convenient  for  building  and  contributing  to  the  necessities  of  ves- 
Isels,  plains  overrun  with  cattle,  excellent  ports,  and  navigable  rivers 
lio  facilitate  inland  communication.  Possessing  all  these  advantages, 
liii  industrious  population  alone  seems  requisite  to  withdraw  it  from 
Ik  okcurity  in  which  it  has  so  long  slept  under  the  indolence  of 
lilie  people  and  the  jealous  policy  of  the  Spanish  government  fn- 
liieed  it  struck  us  as  lamentable  to  see  such  an  extent  of  habitable 
Icountry  lying  almost  desolate  and  useless  to  mankind,  whilst  other 
lations  are  groaning  under  the  burthen  of  their  population. 

It  \u  evident,  from  the  natural  course  of  events,  and  from   the 

ipidity  with  which  observation  has  recently  been  extended  to  the 

Ititherto  most  obscure  parts  of  the  globe,  that  this  indifference  can- 

I continue  ;  for  either  it  nr.ust  cisappear under  the  present  author- 
ities, or  the  country  will  fall  into  other  hands,  as  from  its  situation 
pith  regard  to  other  powers  upon  the  new  continent,  and  to  the 
Iconiraerce  of  the  Pacific,  it  is  of  too  much  importance  to  be  per- 
litted  to  remain  long  in  its  present  neglected  state.     Already  have 
lie  Russians  encroached  upon  the  territory  by  possessing  them- 


/   Mi 


« 


l*--^ 


33a 


VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[Dec. 


uiy? 


wt^ 


selves  of  the  Farallones,  and  some  islands  ofF  Santa  Barbara ;  and 
their  new  settlement  at  Ko^m,  a  few  miles  to  the  northward  of  Bq. 
dega,  is  so  near  upon  the  boundary  as  to  be  the  cansc  uf  nincli  jciil- 
ous  feeling  ; — not  williout  reason  it  would  appear,  as  I  am  informed 
it  is  well  fortified,  and  presents  to  California  an  example  of  what 
may  be  eflected  upon  her  shores  in  a  short  time  by  in(histry. 

The  tract  situated  between  California  and  the  eastern  sideofihc 
continent  of  North  America,  having  been  only  partially  explored, 
])as  hitherto  presented  a  formidable  barrier  to  encroachment  fion, 
that  quartc- ;  but  settlements  are  already  advancing  far  into  the 
heart  of  the  country,  and  parlies  of  hunters  have  lately  traversed 
the  interior,  and  even  penetrated  t.  the  shores  of  the  Pacific;— 
not  without  the  loss  of  lives  from  tlie  attacks  of  the  Indians,  it  is 
true,  but  with  ease  compared  with  the  labour  and  difficulty  expe- 
rienced by  Lewis  and  Clarke,  who  had  not  the  benefit  which  more 
recent  travellers  have  derived  from  the  establishment  of  inland  de- 
pots by  the  American  fur  companies.  One  of  these  depots  we 
jijere  informed  by  a  gentleman  belonging  to'  the  establishment, 
whom  we  met  at  Monterey  in  1827,  is  situated  on  the  western 
side  of  the  rocky  mountains  on  a  fork  of  the  Columbia  called 
Lewis  River,  near  the  source  of  a  stream  supposed  to  be  the  Col- 
orado. 

The  trade  of  Upper  California  at  present  consists  in  the  expor- 1 
tation  of  hides,  tallow,  manteca,  horses  to  the   Sandwich  Islands, 
grain  for  the  Russian  establishmonts  at  Sitka  and  Kodiak,and  intlie 
disposal  of  provisions  to  whale- ships  and  other  vessels  which  touch  | 
upon  the  coast, — perhaps  a  fe\;  furstmd  dollars  are  sent  to  China, 
The  importations  are  dry  goods,  furniture,  wearing-apparel,  agri-j 
cultural  implements,  deal-boanls,  and  salt ;  and  silks  and  fireworksj 
from  China  for  the  decoration  of  the  churches  and  celebration  oil 
the  saints'  days.     In  1827  almost  all  these  articles  bore  high  prices: 
the  former  in  consequence  of   the   increased   demand   for  them;| 
and  the  latter,  partly  from  the  necessity  of   meeting   the  cxpensesl 
of  the  purchase  of  a  return  cargo,  and  partly  on  account  of  the  nav- 
igation act. 

The  missions  and  the  inhabitants  in  general  complained  loiidlyi 
of  these  prices,  not  considering  that  the  fault  was  in  a  great  lueas-j 
ure  their  own,  and  that  they  were  purchasing  some  articles  whicia 
had  been  brought  several  thousand  miles,  when  they  might  liavef 
procured  them  in  their  own  country  with  modctatc  labour  only! 
For  example,  they  were  actually  living  upon  the  sea-coast  anJi 
amongst  forests  of  pine,  and  yet  were  suffering  themselves  to  biiyl 
salt  and  deal-boards  at  exorbitant  prices. 

With  a  similar  disregard  for  their  interest,  they  were   purcliasiii'l 
sea-otter  skins  at  twenty  dollars  apiece,  whilst  the  animals  wcial 


^ 


13-26.] 


AND    BEERINO  S    STRAIT. 


333 


iting   the   cxpeiisesj 
account  of  the  iwv- 


sivimming  about  unmolested  in  their  own  liarhours ;  and  tliis  from 
the  Russians,  who  are  intruders  upon  their  coast,  and  are  depriving 
them  of  a  lucrative  trade  ■.  and  again,  they  were  paying  two  Hun- 
dred dollars  for  carts  of  inrerior  ivorkmanship,  which,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  wheels,  might  jiave  been  equally  well  manufactured 
in  their  own  country. 

With  this  want  of  commercial  enterprise,  they  are  not  much  en- 
titled to  commiseration.  With  more  justice  might  they  have  com- 
plained of  the  navigation  laws,  which,  though  no  doubt  beneficial  to 
the  inhal)itants  on  the  eastern  coast  of  Mexico,  where  there  are 
vessels  belonging  to  the  state  in  readiness  to  conduct  the  coasting 
trade,  are  extremely  disadvantageous  to  the  Californians,  who  hav- 
ing no  vessels  to  employ  in  this  service  are  often  obliged  to  pay  the 
duly  on  goods  introduced  in  foreign  bottoms.  This  duty  for  the 
encouragement  of  the  coasting  trade  was  made  seventeen  per  cent. 
higher  than  that  on  cargoes  brought  in  vessels  of  the  state.  Thus 
not  only  must  the  inhabitants  purchase  their  goods  on  very  disad- 
vantageous terms,  but,  as  a  foreign  vessel  cannot  break  stowage 
irjthout  landing  the  whole  of  her  cargo,  they  must  in  addition  incur 
the  expenses  attending  that,  which  will  in  general  fall  upon  a  few 
goods  only,  as  the  towns  in  California  are  not  sufficiently  populous, 
81))'  one  of  them,  to  consume  a  whole  cargo  ;  and  it  is  to  be  remem- 
bered, that  no  foreign  vessel,  after  breaking  stowage,  can  proceed 
to  another  port  in  the  same  dominion  without  being  liable  to  seizure 
by  the  custom's. 

The  imprudent  nature  of  these  laws,  as  regards  California,  ap- 
pears to  have  been  considered  by  the  authorities  in  that  country,  as 
I  tliey  overlook  the  introduction  of  goods  into  the  towns  by  indirect 
channels,  except  in  cases  of  a  gross  and  palpable  nature.  In  this 
manner  several  American  vessels  have  contrived  to  dispose  of  their 
■  cargoes,  and  the  inhabitants  have  been  supplied  witli  goods  of  which 
ibey  were  much  in  need  ;  but,  had  the  navigation  laws  been  strictly 
attended  to,  the  vessels  must  have  returned  unsuccessful,  and  the 
inhabitants  have  continued  in  want. 

Far  more  liberal  has  been  the  hand  of  nature  to  this  much  neg- 
lected country,  in  bestowing  upon  it  a  climate  remarkable  for  its 
salubrity.  The  Spanish  settlers  in  California  enjoy  an  almost  unin- 
terrupted state  of  good  health.  Many  attain  the  age  of  eighty  and 
ninety,  and  some  have  exceeded  a  hundred  years.  There  have 
leen  periods,  however,  when  the  small  pox  and  measles  have  affect- 
ed the  i)opulation,  and  particulary  the  Indians  in  the  missions,  who, 
unlike  the  Spaniards,  appear  to  suffer  severely  from  diseases  of  all 
kinds.  The  small  pox  many  years  ago  ])revailod  to  an  alarming 
C'xtoiit,  ;ind  carried  off  several  thousand  Indians  ;  but  since  the  in- 
lioduclion  of  cattle  into  the  country,  and  with  them  the  cow  pox,  it 


i 


334 


VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[Dec. 


rv-.'  ■ 


has  not  reappeared.  Vaccination  ^was  practised  in  California  as 
early  as  1806,  and  the  virus  from  Europe  has  been  recently  intro- 
duced through  the  Russian  establisment  at  Rossi.  The  measles 
have  also  at  times  seriously  affected  the  Indians,  and  in  1806  proved 
fatal  to  thousands,  while  it  is  remarkable  that  none  of  the  Spaniards 
affected  with  the  disease  died.  Dysentery,  the  most  prevalent 
complaint  amongst  the  converted  Indians,  no  doubt  arises  in  a  great 
measure  from  the  coldness  and  dampness  of  their  habitations,  and 
becomes  fatal  through  the  want  of  proper  medical  assistance, 
They  are  happily  free  from  the  hooping  cough. 

This  state  of  ill  health  does  not  extend  to  the  uncivilized  Indi- 
ans ;  and,  notwithstanding  the  mortality  in  the  missions,  the  climate 
of  California  must  be  considered  salubrious.  Perouse,  Vancouver, 
and  Langsdorff  were  of  the  same  opinion  ;  and  to  judge  of  it  by 
the  general  health  of  the  Spanish  residents,  and  by  the  benefit  that 
our  seamen  derived  from  it  during  their  short  stay,  it  would  certainly 
appear  not  to  be  surpassed.  The  summer  and  early  part  of  the 
autumn  are  the  least  healthy  parts  of  the  yvar,  in  consequence  of 
continued  fogs,  which  occur  at  these  periods. 

It  is,  in  all  probability,  in  consequence  of  these  fogs  during  tlie 
warmest  part  of  the  year,  that  the  coast  of  California  has  the  repu- 
tation of  being  much  colder  than  that  of  Chili  in  corresponding 
parallels  of  latitude.  In  the  month  of  December  the  mean  tem- 
perature of  San  Francisco  was  53°  2',  the  maximum  66°,  and  the 
miniiiium  46°.  We  nevertheless  saw  hoar  frost  upon  the  grass  in 
the  mornings,  and  in  the  following  year  observed  snow  lie  several 
hours  upon  the  ground.  As  the  minimum  of  temperature  was 
so  many  degrees  above  the  freezing  point,  the  former  was  in  all 
probability  occasioned  by  the  radiation,  which  is  very  great  in  that  j 
country. 

The  winter  of  1826  was  said  to  be  a  very  favourable  season;  we 
could  not  judge  from  our  own  experience,  therefore,  of  what  wea- 
ther was  usual  on  the  coast  at  that  period  of  the  year.  But  there 
were  very  few  days  during  our  visit  in  which  a  vessel  might  not 
have  approached  the  coast  with  safety.  The  strongest  and  most 
prevalent  winds  were  from  the  north-west ;  but  these  winds,  though 
they  blew  directly  upon  the  coast,  were  generally  attended  by  clear 
weather,  which  would  have  enabled  a  vessel  to  find  a  port,  had  it 
been  necessary.  They  were  strongest  about  the  full  and  change  of! 
the  moon. 

From  the  prevalence  of  the  westerly  swell  off  the  harbour,  and 
from  the  wind  moderating  as  we  approached  the  coast  in  both  yeai-s, 
I  am  inclined  to  think  that  these  winds  do  not  usually  blow  home 
upon  the  shore. 

There  was  a  curious  '•^nonialy  observed  in  the  movements  of  the 


1826.] 


AND    BKERING  S    STRAIT. 


335 


barometer  and  sympeisometer  during  our  stay  at  San  Francisco ; 
the  former  rose  with  the  winds  which  brought  bad  weather,  and  fell 
with  those  which  restored  serenity  to  the  sky.  The  maximum 
height  was  30-46,  the  minimum  2998,  and  the  mean  30-209. 

The  hygrometer  on  the  whole  indicated  a  dry  atmosphere,  and 
ranged  from  0"  to  20©  of  dryness  on  the  thermometric  scale,  the 
toean  degree  of  dryness  being  6°,  6'.  The  particulars  of  these  ob- 
servations are  inserted  in  tables  in  the  Appendix  to  the  4to  edition. 

The  clear  weather  occasioned  by  the  north-west  wind  was  favoura- 
ble for  astronomical  observations  ;  but  many  were  lost  in  conse- 
quence of  a  haze  overhanging  the  land  at  night,  and  from  the  incon- 
venience arising  from  a  heavy  deposition,  which,  besides  occasioning 
I  much  mirage,  fell  so  profusely  upon  the  glasses  of  the  instruments 
that  they  were  obliged  to  be  repeatedly  wiped,  and  sometimes  at 
the  most  inconvenient  moments.*     Our  observations,    however, 
irere  very  satisfactory,  and  are  important,  as  the  longitudes  of  the 
I  places  between  Nootka  Sound  and  San  Diego  are  Hppendeut  upon 
the  situation  of  San  Francisco  and  Monterey  ;  Vancouver  having, 
in  his  survey  of  the  coast,  rated  his  chronometers  between  the  me- 
ridians of  these  places.     My  observatory  was  erected  upon  a  small 
eminence  near  the  anchorage  at  YerbaBuena,  from  whence  the  ob- 
servations were  carefully  reduced  to  the  fort  at  the  entrance  of  the 
jliarbour.     The  results    have  been  published  in  the  4to  edition, 
where  will  also  be  found  some  observations  on  the  dip  and  variation 
lof  the  needle,  the  tides,  and  other  subjects. 

i  I  shall  conclude  this  imperfect  sketch  of  Upper  California  with  a 
Isliort  description  of  the  Indian  mode  of  living,  and  of  the  natural 

ductions  of  the  country,  derived  principally  from  the  information 
loflhe  priests,  and  from  the  -journals  of  the  officers  who  went  over- 
lland  to  Monterey.  The  Indians  who  enter  the  missions  with  which 
Ke  became  acquainted  aro  divided  in  their  wild  state  into  distinct 
Itribes,  and  are  governed  by  a  chief  whose  office  is  hereditary,  but 
loDly  in  the  male  line.  The  widows  and  daughters,  however, 
lliiough  not  allowed  to  partate  of  this  privilege,  are  exempted  from 
llabour,  and  are  more  respected  than  other  women.  Each  tribe  has 
la  different  dialect :  and  thoi  gh  their  districts  are  small,  the  langua- 
hes  are  sometimes  so  different,  that  the  neighbouring  tribes  cannot 
lunderstand  each  other.  I  have  before  observed  that  in  the  mission 
lof  San  Carlos  there  are  eleven  different  dialects.  Their  villages 
Iconsist  of  wigwams  made  with  poles,  covered  with  bulrushes,  and 
lare  generally  placed  in  an  open  plain  to  avoid  surprise.  Like  the 
l^rabs  and  other  wandering  tribes,  these  people  move  about  the 
jcountry,  and  pitch  their  tents  wherever  they  find  a  convenient 
Iplace,  keeping,  however  within  their  own  district. 

•I  found  this  in  a  great  degree  obviated  by  fixing  a  long  paper  tube  to  llie  field 
Imd  of  the  teleBcope. 


I  ■ 


If^f^f^^WW  lU^ViH  I'wvu'vn 


.  I 


'■•S'' 


1 


\^, 


,n 


1/ 1«/'| 


i 


^>B^ 


■;^ 


036 


VOYAGF.    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[Not 


They  cultivate  no  land,  and  subsist  entirely  by  tbe  chase,  and 
upon  the  spontaneous  produce  of  the   earth.     Acorns,  of  wlncli 
there  is  a  great  abundance  in  the  country,  constitute  their  princi- 
pal  vegetable  food.     In  the  proper  season  they  procure  a  supply  of 
these,  bake  them,  and  then   bruise  them  between  tvv^o  stones  into 
a  paste,  which  will  keep  until  the  following  season.     The  paste  be- 
fore H  is  -hied  is  subjected  to  several  washings  in  a  sieve,  whid, 
they  say  deprives  it  of  the  bitter  taste  common  to  the  acorn.    We 
cannot  but  remark  the  great  resemblance  this  custom  bears  to  the 
method  adopted  by  the  South-Sea  Islandei's  to  keep  their  breaclthiit, 
nor  ought  we  to  fail  to  notice  the  manner  in  which  Providence 
points  o{it  to  different  tribes  the  same  wise  means  of  preserving  j 
their  food,  and  providing  against  a  season  of  scarcity. 

The  country  inhabited  by  the  Indians  abounds  in  game,  and  the  j 
rivers  in  fish  ;  and  those  tribes  which  inhabit  the  sea-coast  make  use 
of  muscles  and  other  shell-fish,  of  which  the  haliotis  gigantea  is  the 
most  abundant.     In  the  chase  they  are  very  expert,  and  avail  them- 1 
selves  of  a  variety   of  devices  to  ensnare   and  decoy    their  game, 
The  artifice  of  deceiving  the  deer  by  placing  a  head  of  the  animal  I 
upon  their  shoulders  is  very  successfully  practiced  by   them.    Tol 
do  this,  they  fit  the  head  and  horns  of  a  deer  upon  the  head  ofal 
huntsman,  the  rest  of  his  body  being  painted  to  resemble  the  colourl 
of  a  dee".     Thus  disguised  the  Indian  sallies  forth,  equipped  wiilij 
hi'-  bow  and  arrows,  approaches  the  pasture  of  the  deer,  whose  ac-f 
tions  and  voice  he  then  endeavours  to  imitate,    taking  care  to  conJ 
ceal  his  body  as  much  as  possible,  for  which  purpose  he  generally! 
selects  places  which  are  overgrown  with  long  grass.     This  strati 
gem  seldom  fails  to  entice  several  of  the  herd  within  reach  ofJiis  aiv 
rows,  which  are  frequently  sent  with  unerring  aim  to  the  heart  ( 
the  animal,  and  he  falls  without  alarming  the  herd  ;  but  if  theaiiii 
should  fail,  or  the  arrow  only  wound  its  intended  victim,  the  wbol^ 
herd  is  immediately  put  to  flight. 

Their  method  of   taking  ducks  and  other  wildfowl  is  equalljl 
ingenious.     They  construct  large  nets  with  bulrushes,  and  repai' 
to  such  rivers  as  are  the  resort  of  their  game,  where  they  fixaloiiWu-'thi 
pole  upright  on  each  bank,  with  one  end  of  the  net  attached  totlii^ 
pole  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  to  themselves.     Several  arti 
ficial  ducks  made  of  rushes  are  then  set  afloat  upon  the  water  ba 
tween  the  poles  as  a  decoy  ;  and  the  Indians,  who  have  a  line  hi 
tened  to  one  end  of  the  net,  and  passed  through  a  hole  in  the  uppa 
end  of  the  pole  that  is  near  them,  wait  the  arrival  of  their  gamei 
concealment.     When  the  birds  approach,  they  suddenly  extend  tlij 
net  across  the  river  by  pulling  upon  the  line,  and  intercept  tliemi 
their  flight,  when  they  fall  stunned  into  a  large  purse  in  the  net,  ani 
are  captured.     They  also  spread  nets  across  their  rivers  in  the  eva 


AND  BEERINC'S  STRAIT. 


337 


ning,  in  order  that  the  birds  may  become  entangled   in   them   as 
they  fly. 

The  occupation  of  the  men  consists  principally  in  providing  for 
tlieir  support,  and  in  constructing  the  necessary  implements  for  the 
chase  and  for  their  own  defence.  The  women  attend  to  their  do- 
mestic concerns,  and  work  a  variety  of  baskets  and  ornamental 
parts  of  their  dress,  some  are  very  ingenious,  and  all  extremely  la- 
borious. Their  closely  wove  baskets  are  not  only  capable  of  con- 
taining water,  but  are  used  for  cooking  their  meals.  A  number  of 
(mall  scarlet  feathers  of  the  orilus  phoeniceus  are  wove  in  with  the 
wood,  and  completely  screen  it  from  view  on  the  outside ;  and  to 
ihe  rim  are  affixed  small '  lack  crests  of  the  Californian  patridges, 
of  which  birds  a  hundred  brace  are  required  to  decorate  one  bas- 
ket:— they  arp  otherwise  ornamented  with  beads,  and  pieces  of 
mother-of-pearl.  They  also  embroider  belts  very  beautifully  with 
feathers  of  different  colours,  and  they  work  with  remarkable  neat- 
ness, making  use  of  the  young  quills  of  the  porcupine,  in  a  similar 
manner  to  the  Canadian  Indians  ;  but  here  they  manufacture  a  fine 
cloth  for  the  ground,  whereas  the  Canadians  have  only  the  bark 
of  the  birch-tree.  They  also  manufacture  caps  and  dresses  for 
their  chiefs,  which  are  extremely  beautiful ;  and  they  have  a  great 
I  many  other  feather  ornaments,  which  it  would  be  stepping  beyond 
I  the  limits  of  my  work  to  describe. 

The  stature  of  the  Indians    which  we  saw   in   the  missions  was 
[by  no  means  diminutive.     The  Alchones  are  of  good  height,  and 
the  Tuluraios  were  thought  to  be,  generally,  above  the  standard  of 
Englishmen.     Their  complexion  is  much  darker  than  that  of  the 
South-sea  Islanders,  and  their  features    far  inferior  in  beauty.     In 
jllieir  persons  they  are   extremely  dirty,  particularly  their  heads, 
hvhich  are  so  thatched  with  wiry  black  hair  that  it  is  only  by  sepa- 
rating the  locks  with     the    hand  that    it  can    be  got  at  for  the 
purposes  of  cleanliness.     Many  are  seen  performing   such  acts  of 
[kindness  upon  their  intimate  friends ;  and,  as  the  readiest  means  of 
disposing  of  what  they  find,   consuming  it  in  the  manner  practiced 
I  by  the  Tartars,  who  according  to  Hakluyt — "  cleanse  one  anothers' 
heades,  and  ever  as  thei  take  an  animal  do  eate  her,  saeing  thus  wille 
lldoe  to  our  enemies."* 

Their  bodies  are  in  general  very  scantily  clothed,  and  in  summer 
I  many  go  entirely  naked.  The  women,  however,  wear  a  deer  skin 
or  some  other  covering  about  their  loins  :  but  skin  dresses  are  not 
common  among  any  of  the  tribes  concerning  whom  we  would  pro- 
cure any  information.  The  women  are  fond  of  ornaments,  and 
suspend  beads  and  buttons  about  their  persons,  while   to  their  ears 

♦  Hakluyt's  Selection  of  curious  and  rare  Voyages,  Supplement 
43 


338 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Dec. 


ii 


11 


K«     S 


they  attach  long  wooden  cylenders,   variously  carved,  which  serve 
the  double  purpose  of  ear-rings  and  needle-cases. 

Tattooing  is  practiced  in  these  tribes  by  both  sexes,  both  to  or- 
nament the  person,  and  to  distinguish  one  clan  from  the  otiier.  |t 
is  remarkable  that  the  women  mark  their  chins  precisely  in  t|)e 
same  way  as  the  Esquimaux. 

The  tribes  are  frequently  at  war  with  each  other,  often  in  conse- 
quence of  trespasses  upon  their  territory  aud  property  ;  and  ueak 
tribes  are  sometimes  wholly  annihilated,  or  obliged  to  associate 
themselves  with  those  of  their  conquerors  ;  but  such  is  their  warmth 
of  passion  and  desire  of  revenge  that  very  little  humanity  is  in  gen- 
eral shown  to  those  who  fall  into  their  power.  Their  weapons  con- 
sist only  of  bows  and  arrows  ;  neither  the  tomahawk  nor  the  spear 
is  ever  seen  in  their  hands.  Their  bows  are  elegantly  and  ingeni- 
ously constructed,  and  if  kept  dry  will  discharge  an  arrow  to  a  con- 
siderable  distance.  They  resenilale  those  of  the  Esquimaux,  be'ni" 
strengthened  by  sinews  at  the  back  of  the  bow,  but  here  one  sinew-! 
the  size  of  the  wood,  occupies  the  whole  extent  of  the  back,  and 
embraces  the  ends,  where  they  are  turned  back  to  receive  the 
string ;  the  sinew  is  fixed  to  the  bow  while  wet,  and  as  it  becomes 
dry  draws  it  back  the  reverse  way  to  that  in  which  it  is  intended  to 
be  used.  The  Indian  manner  of  stringing  these  bows  is  precisely 
similar  to  that  practiced  by  the  lovers  of  archery  in  England ;  hui 
it  requires  greater  skill  and  strength,  in  consequence  of  the  increased 
curvature  of  the  bow,  and  the  resistence  of  the  sinew. 

The  religion  of  all  the  tribes  is  idolatrous.  The  Olchone,  \vlio 
inhabit  the  sea-coast  between  San  Francisco  and  Monterey,  worship 
the  sun,  and  believe  in  the  existence  of  a  beneficent  and  an  evil 
spirit,  whom  they  occasionally  attempt  to  propitiate.  Their  ideas 
of  a  future  state  are  very  confined  :  when  a  person  dies  they  adorn 
the  corpse  with  feathers,  flowers,  and  beads,  and  place  witiiita 
bow  and  arrows ;  they  then  extend  it  upon  a  pile  of  wood,  and 
burn  it  amidst  the  shouts  of  the  spectators,  who  wish  the  soul  a 
pleasant  journey  to  its  new  abode,  which  they  suppose  to  be  a 
country  in  the  direction  of  the  setting  sun.  Like  most  other  na- 
tions, these  people  '  i/e  a  tradition  of  the  deluge  ;  they  believe  also! 
that  their  tribes  originally  came  from  the  north. 

The  Indians  in  their  wild  state  are  said  to  be  more  healthy  than  I 
those  which  have  entered  the  missions.  They  have  simple  reme- 
dies, derived  from  certain  medicinal  herbs,  with  the  property  oil 
which  they  have  previously  made  themselves  acquainted.  Soniej 
of  these  roots  are  useful  as  emetics,  and  are  administered  in  cases  oi'j 
sickness  of  the  stomach :  they  also  apply  cataplasms  to  diseased  [ 
parts  of  the  body,  and  practise  phlebotomy  very  generally,  usinj 
the  right  arm  for  this  purpose  when  the  body  is  affected,  and  the 


1826.J 


AND    BEEIUNg's    STRAIT. 


339 


left  wliere  the  limbs.     But  the  temischal  is  the  grand  remedy  for 

most  of  their  diseases. 

The  very  great  care  taken  of  all  who  are  afTected  with  any  dis- 
ease ouglit  not  to  be  allowed  to  escape  a  remark.  When  any  of 
iheir  relations  are  indisposed,  the  greatest  attention  is  paid  to  their 
,vants,  and  it  was  remarked  by  Padre  Arroya  that  filial  affection  is 
itrongerin  these  tribes  than  in  any  civilized  nation  on  the  globe 
,(itli  which  he  was  acquainted. 

Our  knowledge  of  the  natural  history  of  this  country  cannot  be 
expected  to  be  very  extensive.  In  the  woods  not  immediately  bor- 
dering upon  the  missions,  the  black  bear  has  his  habitation,  and 
when  food  is  scarce  it  is  dangerous  to  pass  through  them  alone  in 
ihe  dusk  of  the  evening  ;  but  when  the  acorns  abound  there  is  noth- 
ing to  apprehend.  It  is  said  that  the  white  bear  also  vists  this  dis- 
trict occasionally,  from  the  northward.  The  lion  {fdis  concolor?) 
and  the  tiger  (fclis  oncal)  are  natives  of  these  woo(ls,  but  we  never 
M\v  them  :  the  inhabitants  say  they  are  small,  and  that  the  lion  is 
less  than  the  tiger,  but  more  powerful.  A  large  species  of  moun- 
uincat  (goto  del  monte)  is  common  :  a  polecat  (yiverra putorius) 
also  is  found  in  the  woods  :  wolves  and  foxes  are  numerous,  and  the 
I  niQtas,  or  jackalls,  range  about  the  plains  at  night,  and  prove  very 
destructive  to  the  sheep.  The  fallow  deer  browses  on  the  pasture 
land,  not  only  in  the  interior,  but  also  upon  some  of  the  islands  and 
around  the  shores  af  the  harbour;  it  is  sought  after  for  its  skin,  of 
which  the  Spaniards  make  boots  and  shoes,  &;c.  The  rein  deer 
lilso  is  found  inland,  particularly  upon  a  large  plain  named  Tulu- 
nyoSjOn  account  of  the  number  of  bulrushes  growing  there.  In 
lie  months  of  May  and  June  the  Spaniards  resort  to  this  plain  with 
I liieir  lassos,  and  take  as  many  of  these  animals  as  they  can  ensnare, 
lor  the  sake  of  their  fat,  of  which  they  will  sometimes  procure  be- 
lireen  four  and  five  arobas  from  one  animal. 

The  fields  are  burrowed  by  a  small  rat,  resembling  the  mus  arva- 

is,  by  a  mountain  rat  of  the  cricctus,  species,  and  also  by  the  ar- 

lillo,  a  species  of  sciurus,   rather  a  pretty  little  animal,  said  to  be 

I  mod  to  eat ;  another  of  these  species  was  seen  among  the  branches 

of  the  trees.     A  small  variety  of  lepus  cuniculm  is  very  common  in 

llie  sand  hills  near  the  presidio  ;  hares  are  less  common,  and  indeed 

lis  doubtful  whether  any  were  seen  by  us.     Raccoons  are  found  in 
I  the  mountains  at  a  distance  from  the  coast.     The   sea-otter  musse- 

'  lutris)  is  not  an  unfrequent  visitor  in  the  harbour  of  San  Fran- 
Icisco,  but  very  few  of  them  are  taken,  notwithstanding  their  fur  is 
jvahiable.  Judging  from  the  accounts  that  have  been  published, 
llhese  animals  are  becoming  less  numerous  upon  the  coast :  in  1786 
lii  was  stated  that  50'000  of  them  might  be  collected  annualy, 
Iwhercas  at  present  the  number  is  reduced  to  about  2'000.     For- 


i 


V 


340 


VOYAGE   TO   THE    PACIFIC 


[Dec. 


poises  and  wliales  are  numerous  outside  the  harbour,  and  the  com- 
mon seal  may  occasionally  be  seen  basking  on  the  rocks  of  Yerlm- 
buena,  and  other  places. 

The  feathered  tribe  in  San  Francisco  are  very  numerous,  and 
have  as  yet  been  so  Httle  molested  that  there  must  be  a  rich  harvest 
in  store  for  the  first  naturalist  who  shall  turn  his  attention  to  thjs 
place.  We  succeded  in  killing  a  great  many  birds  of  dilForent 
species,  several  of  which  were  found  to  be  quite  new,  and  will  h^, 
described  in  the  natural  history  which  will  shortly  appear  as  a  sup. 
plement  to  this  voyage  :  but  there  are  not  many  which  deliglit,  ci- 
ther  by  the  brilliancy  or  beauty  of  their  plumage,  or  by  the  melo'ly 
of  their  note.  The  birds  of  prey  are  the  black  vulture  (vultus 
aura,)  sometimes  large  ;  several  species  of  falco,  one  of  which  at- 
tacks the  geese,  and  is  in  consequence  called  inato  gansas,  also  n 
kite,  and  a  sparrow  hawk.  The  horned  owl  (a  variety  of  tlie  strii 
virginiana!)  Hies  about  after  dark  to  the  terror  of  the  superstitious 
Indians,  who  imagine  its  screech  forbodes  evil.  Several  species  of 
oriohis  are  met  \.  ith  in  the  plains,  and  one,  the  oriulus  phwniciui 
is  seen  in  immense  flocks.  The  natives  say  that  this  bird,  which 
in  its  first  year  is  of  a  greyish  black  colour,  changes  to  deep  black 
in  the  second,  and  ultimately  becomes  black  with  red  sliouklers;  hut 
Mr.  Collie  thinks  there  is  some  error  in  this.  There  is  another  oriohis 
which  frequents  moist  and  i  ly  places;  crows  in  great  numbers,sonie 
which  are  white,  and  smaller  than  those  of  England  ;  and  several  spe- 
cies  of  finches,  buntings,  and  spar  rows,  prove  very  destructive  loths 
grain  when  sown.  The  magpie  is  also  an  inhabitant  here,  and  a  small 
blue  jay  frequents  the  woods.  The  California  qivd\\(^tctrao  virginm- 
Ms,)wood  pigeons  with  bronzed  imbricated  feathers  on  the  backofihe 
neck,  plovers  (charadrius  hiaticula  ?),  snipes,  several  species  of 
sanderlings  (tringa,)  razorbills  (^/k  matojms,)  herons  (^ardeu,)  cur- 
lew (scolopax  linosa  and  recurvirosta.)  and  two  species  of  rallm, 
afibrded  amusement  to  our  sportsmen,  as  did  also  some  of  the  mam 
species  of  the  geese,  ducks,  widgeon,  and  teal,  which  frequent  the 
lakes  and  plains.  The  two  latter  species,  and  one  of  the  anm 
(enjcthropus  I)  were  similar  to  those  which  had  been  seen  in  Kot- 
zebue  Sound ;  and  the  natives  remark  that  they  arrive  from  the 
north  in  the  month  of  September,  and  depart  again  in  IMay.  The 
grey  geese  are  said  to  be  good  to  eat,  but  we  found  them  all  fishy ; 
not  so  the  ducks,  the  greater  part  of  which  are  palatable  :  these 
birds,  of  which  we  procured  about  twenty  species  and  the  niallaid, 
are  so  common  that  several  were  frequently  killed  at  one  shot.  It 
was  observed  that  some  kinds  of  ducks  always  preferred  salt  water 
to  the  lakes,  particularly  a  species  with  a  dark-coloured  body  and  a 
white  head,  which  we  did  not  obtain.  Among  those  which  frequent 
the  fresh  water  there  were  generally  and  abundance  of  water-hens. 


.^•26.] 


AND    BERRINO  S   STRAIT. 


341 


Pelicans  (pclicanus  onorcrathns)  may  be  seen  morning  and  eve- 
nins  winging  their  long  line  of  flight  across  the  harbour,  and  set- 
ilini;  upon  the  little  island  of  Alcatrasses,  which  they  have  coniplcte- 
Iv  covered  with  their  exuvia;,  and  rendered  extremely  ofibnsive  to 
persons  passing  near  the  place.  Shags  (pclicanus  frraculus)  also 
abound  in  the  harbour.  1  ought. to  have  noticed  in  its  proper  place 
•Jic  luimniing  bird,  which,  notwithstanding  the  high  latitude  of  the 
country,  is  an  inhabitant  o("  the  woods,  and  if  we  may  rely  upon 
padre  Tomaso,  may  be  seen  there  all  the  year  round.  We  noticed 
several  of  them  fluttering  about  some  gooseberry  bushes  near  our 
anchorage,  and  shot  one  in  full  flesh :  as  this  was  in  the  middle  of 
winter,  the  information  of  the  padre  was  probably  correct. 

To  this  list  of  birds  several  were  added  the  succeeding  year  at 
Monterey,  which,  being  found  so  near  the  place  we  are  describing, 
niay  justly  be  classed  with  them  :  these  consisted  of  the  golden 
winged  wood-pecker,  a  goat-sucker,  several  species  of  small  birds 
unknown  to  us,  and  a  golden-crested  wren.  At  this  place  there 
ivere  also  several  species  of  picus. 

1  shall  pass  rapidly  over  the  reptiles,  which  are  not  numerous  at 
San  Francisco,  and  none  were  procured  during  our  stay.  The  Span- 
iards assert  that  there  is  an  adder  in  the  wood  which  is  venomous, 
and  that  there  are  rattlesnakes  upon  the  island  of  Mokite  in  the 
arbour ;  but  we  saw  neither  the  one  or  the  other,  notwithstanding 
)Ir.  Elson  and  a  boat's  crew  landed  upon  Molate,  which  is  very 
•mall  indeed. 

Fish  are  not  much  sought  after  in  California,  in  consequen  e  of 
iie  productions  of  the  land  being  so  very  abundant ;  several  sorts, 
Mwever,  are  brought  to  the  tables  of  tlie  missions.  In  the  Bay  of 
Jlonterey  we  noticed  the  scomber  colias,  and  anothei  kind  of  mack- 
irel,  the  torpedo  and  another  species  of  raia,  achimara,  and  swarms 
:t  small  fish  resembling  the  Sardinia.  Muscles  are  found  in  consid- 
ciable  quantities  upon  the  shores,  and  form  a  large  portion  of  the 
sod  of  the  Indians  bordering  upon  the  coasts  and  rivers.  At  Mon- 
lerey  two  species  of  haliotis  of  large  size  arc  also  extremely  abund- 
3nt,  and  equally  sought  after  by  the  Indians.  They  are  found  on 
liie  granite  rocks  forming  the  south-east  part  of  the  bay,  which  ap- 
peal's to  be  their  northern  limit.  The  natives  make  use  of  these 
■Jiells  for  ornaments,  and  decorate  their  baskets  with  pieces  of  them. 
Besides  these  shell-fish,  there  were  noticed  a  few  patella,  limpet, 
turbo,  cardiuni,  and  mya  shells,  and  among  other  lepas,  a  rare  spe- 
cies of  /.  anotifera  and  a  chiton  (tunicatus  ?) 

The  forests  of  this  part  of  California  furnish  principally  large 
trees  of  the  pinus  genus,  of  which  the  p.  rigida  and  the  red  cedar 
are  most  abundant,  and  are  oi  sufficient  growth  for  the  masts  of 
vessels.     Two  kinds  of  oak  arrive  at  large  growth,  but  near  the 


>^J 


U  '  »■ 


342 


VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[Dec. 


]' 


coast  they  do  not  appear  to  be  very  numerous.  There  is  here  a 
low  tree  with  a  smooth  reddish-brown  bark,  bearing  red  berries, 
which  from  the  hardness  of  its  wood,  would  serve  the  purpose  of 
lignum  vitac  :  there  are  also  some  birch  and  plane  trees  ;  but  tliere 
are  very  few  trues  bearing  fruit  which  are  indigenous ;  the  cherry 
tree  and  gooseburry  bush,  however,  appear  to  be  so. 

The  shrubs  covering  the  sand  hills  and  moors  are  principally 
syngenesious,  or  of  the  order  rhamnus,  while  those  which  prefer 
the  more  fertile  and  humid  soils  are  a  gaudy-flowered  currant  hush, 
and  a  species  of  honeysuckle  ;  but  the  most  remarkable  shrub  in 
this  country  is  the  yedra,  a  poisonous  plant  affecting  only  particular 
constitutions  of  the  human  body,  by  producing  tumours  and  violr in 
inflamation  upon  any  part  with  which  it  comes  in  contact ;  and  in- 
deed  even  the  exhalation  from  it,  borne  upon  the  wind,  is  said  lo 
have  an  effect  upon  some  people.  It  is  a  slender  shrub,  prel'enini' 
cool  and  shady  ])laces  to  others,  and  bears  a  trefoil  crenated  leaf, 
Among  other  useful  roots  in  this  country  there  are  two  wl)icli  are 
used  by  the  natives  for  soap,  amote  and  jamate. 

From  San  Francisco  we  proceeded  to  Monterey  to  take  in  the 
stores  that  had  been  purchased  at  that  place,  and  to  procure  some 
spars,  which  grow  more  conveniently  for  embarkation  there  than  at 
San  Francisco.  Though  the  distance  between  these  two  places 
is  very  little  more  than  a  hundred  miles,  our  passage  wus 
prolonged  to  two  days  by  light  winds.  On  the  la  ;  day 
of  the  year  we  passed  Punto  ano  nuevo,  which  witli  I'unto 
Pinos  forms  the  bay  of  Monterey.  This  is  a  spacious  sandy 
bay  about  twenty  miles  across,  and  according  to  Perouse  with 
anchorage  near  the  shore  in  almost  every  part ;  but  it  is  not  advis- 
able to  enter  it  in  any  other  place  than  that  which  is  frequented  as 
an  anchorage,  in  consequence  of  a  heavy  swell  which  almost  always 
rolls  into  it  from  the  westward.  The  mission  of  Santa  Cruz  is  sit- 
uated at  the  north  extremity  of  the  bay  near  Punto  ano  nuevo,  and 
vessels  occasionally  anchor  off  there  for  fresh  water  and  supplies  of 
vegetables,  neither  of  which  are  to  be  had  in  any  quantity  at  Mon- 
terey. Care  should  be  taken  in  landing  at  Santa  Cruz,  as  the  surf 
is  very  heavy,  and  the  river  of  St.  Lorenzo  has  a  bar  off  it,  which 
it  is  necessary  to  pass. 

We  dropped  our  anchor  in  Monterey  Bay  on  the  first  of  Janu- 
ary, and  with  the  permission  of  the  governor,  D.  Miguel  Gon.:ales, 
immediately  commenced  cutting  the  spars  we  required  ;  for  each  of 
which  we  paid  a  small  sum.  Through  the  assistance  of  Mr.  Hart- 
nell,  we  procured  several  things  from  the  missions  which  we  should 
otherwise  have  sailed  without,  and  our  thanks  are  further  due  to 
him  for  his  kindness  and  attention  during  our  stay. 

The  anchorage  of  Monterey  is  about  two  miles  south-east  of 
point  Pinos,  in  the  south  angle  of  the  great  bay  just  described.    U 


AND    BEGRINo's    STRAIT. 


343 


riiere  is  here  a 
ring  red  borrins, 
the  purpose  of 
trees  ;  but  there 
ous;   the  cherry 

iO. 

3  are  principally 
3se  which  preltr 
sred  currant  Imsli, 
arkable  shrub  in 
ing  only  particular 
mours  and  violoiu 
contact ;  and  in- 
!  wind,  is  said  lo 
r  shrub,  preferrint; 
oil  crenated  leaf. 
e  two  wliich  art' 

jy  to  lake  in  tlie 
I  to  procure  some 
ation  there  llian  at 
these  two  places 
our    passage    was 
On    tlie    la  t   day 
Inch    with    I'unto 
a   spacious    sandy ' 
to  Perouse  with 
lut  it  is  not  advis- 
;h  is  frequented  as  | 
[hich  almost  always 
Santa  Cruz  is  sit- 
to  ano  nuevo,and 
,ter  and  supplies  of  j 
quantity  at  Mon- 
Cruz,  as  the  surf 
bar  oft'  it,  wliioh ' 

Ithe  first  of  J  ami- 
Miguel  Gon^ale?, 
luire'd  ;  for  each  of 
lince  of  Mr.  Hart- 
which  we  should 
l-e  further  due  to 

les    south-cast  of 
list  described,    h 


is  necessary  to  lie  close  to  the  shore,  both  on  account  of  the  depth 
of  water,  and  in  order  to  receive  the  protection  of  point  Pinos, 
without  which  ships  could  not  remain  in  the  bay.  It  presents  to  the 
eye  a  very  exposed  anchorage,  hut  no  accidents  iiave  ever  occurred 
to  any  vessel  properly  found  in  cables  and  anchors  ;  in  which  respect 
it  very  much  resembles  the  bay  of  Valparaiso,  nearly  in  the  same 
parallel  in  the  southern  hemisphere. 

The  village  and  presidio  of  Monterey  are  situated  upon  a  plain 
between  the  anchorage  and  a  range  of  hills  covered  with  wood.s  of 
pine  and  oak.  The  presidio  is  in  better  condition  than  that  at  San 
Kraiicisco ;  still  as  a  place  of  defence  it  is  quite  useless.  The  fort 
is  not  much  better,  and  its  strength  may  be  judged  of  from  its  hav- 
iiii^  hccn  taken  by  a  small  party  of  seamen  who  landed  from  a 
Buenos  Ayrean  pirate  in  1819,  destroyed  the  greater  part  of  the 
jiins,  and  pillaged  and  burnt  the  town. 

At  the  distance  of  a  league  to  the  southward  of  the  presidio  lies 
the  mission  of  San  Carlos,  a  small  establishment  containing  '2(50  In- 
dians. It  is  situated  in  a  valley  near  the  river  St.  Carmelo  ;  a 
?it]all  stream  emptying  itself  into  a  deep  rocky  bay.  The  shores 
of  this  bay,  and  indeed  of  the  whole  of  the  coast  near  Point  Pinos, 
is  armed  with  rocks  of  granite  upon  which  the  sea  breaks  furiously  ; 
and,  as  there  is  no  anchorage  near  them  on  account  of  the  great 
depth  of  water,  it  is  dangerous  to  approach  the  coast  in  light  or 
variable  winds.  Fortunately  some  immense  beds  of  sea  weed 
[fucus  pyrifonnis)  lie  off  the  coast,  and  are  so  impenetrable  that 
lihey  are  said  to  have  saved  several  vessels  which  were  driven  \nlo 
ihem  by  the  swell  during  calm  and  foggy  weather.  The  ride  from 
llie  presidio  to  San  Carlos  on  a  fine  day  is  most  agreeable.  The 
scenery  is  just  sufficiently  picturesque  to  interest,  while  the  hillf. 
ite  not  so  abrupt  as  to  inconvenience  a  bold  rider.  The  road  lead  > 
principally  through  fine  pasture  lands,  occasionslly  wooded  with 
tall  pine,  oak,  and  birch  trees  ;  but  without  any  underwood  to  give 
it  a  wihlness,  or  to  rob  it  of  its  park-like  aspect.  Before  the  valley 
of  San  Carmelo  opens  out,  the  traveller  is  apprized  of  his  approach 
Itothe  mission  by  three  large  cro.sses  erected  upon  Mount  Calvary; 
md  fiiriher  on  by  smaller  ones  placed  at  the  side  of  the  road,  to 
leach  of  which  some  history  is  attached.  In  the  church  is  a  draw- 
jug  of  the  reception  of  La  Perouse  at  the  mission,  executed  on 
1  the  Astrolabe,  by  one  of  the  officers  of  his  squadro:  I 
luch  wished  to  possess  this  valuable  relic,  with  which  however  the 
padre  was  unwilling  to  part. 

We  found  lying  in  the  port  of  Monterey  an  American  brig  en- 
favouring  to  dispose  of  a  cargo  of  dry  goods,  and  to  procure  hides 
ad  tallow  in  retrun  ;  and  we  opportunely  received  from  her  a  supply 
fspirits,as  the  last  cask  was  abroach.     On  the  4th  a  Russian  brig, 


.  f;^. 


■  .( 


1 

.'-L 


if 


•i^ 


m^ 


1 


344 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Jan. 


named  the  Baikal,  belonging  to  the  Russian  American  Fur  Com- 
pany, anchored  in  the  buy.  This  ve.^sol  was  employed  upon  tlie 
coast,  trading  between  Sitka,  Bodega,  and  several  ports  in  Cali- 
fon;ia,  either  in  carrying  or  arranging  the  supplies  for  the  Russian 
secllements  to  the  northward.  She  w^s  commanded  by  an  oflicer 
ij)  the  Russian  navy,  and  had  on  boara  Mr.  Klcbnekofl',  the  aaon*. 
'jniiere  are  several  of  these  vessels  upon  the  coast  carrying  ^lii),; 
find  wearing  pendants.  On  the  5th  we  took  leave  of  cur  hos|iii;,. 
ble  acquaintances,  and  put  to  sea  on  our  passage  to  the  Suuduich 
Islands. 


i 


mm 


mmm 


wmmmm 


327.] 


AND    BF.EniNfj's    STRAIT. 


345 


CHAPTER  XV. 


P,i=s;\!ro  to  the  SiUKlwicl.  Islamic— Wo;i]ioo—IIi^',,rior  1  Rkt-tcli  of  the  IsIukIs— 
I'rutrirs.-^  ill  Ch  ilizalion — San<l:il  wood — '.ii'soiirccs  i"  tlic  Govcniniciit — Slow 
I'lM'.Ti'.s.s  of  lMlii.,'a.tinn — Kllorts  of  tho  Mi.-isii.mnrior! — T.  nsiuTCrisful  Result  of  their 
Zial — Scutiiiii'iits  iif  tlir  Kiiifr  Miid  Chill's — I'.ntcitMimiK  til  friveu  hy  the  Kiiiij — 
Dtiitli  of  Kiymakoo — W'uiliiig'  Scene — Depaiture  of  Kuliuuiaiui  fur  Owyhrr. 

Upon  loavii7g  I\'ontcrey  we  steered  to  the  southward  with  a  fair 

nm\,  which  cfirried  us  into  the  trades,  and  attended  us  the  whole  way 

to  the  Sandwich  Islands.      In  our  course  wc  searched  unsuccessfully 

for  all  the  islands  that  were  marked  near  our  route,  rounding   to 

every  nii;ht  when  near  the  position  of  any  one,  that  it  might  not  ho 

passed  unohserved,  and  making  sail  on  a  parallel  of  latitude  during 

j  the  day.     In  this  iwanner  we  searched  for  Henderson's  and  Coop- 

I  er's  Islands,  hesides  several  others  said  to  lie  near  them,  and   also 

lor  a  group  in  tlie  latitude  of  1G°  N.,  and  longitude   between   l.'JOo 

jid  V-i'-V  W. ;  but  we  saw  nothing  of   them,  nor  had  any  of  the 

uHial  indications  of  the  vicinijy  of  hmd  ;  so  that,  if   any  of   these 

i-lands  exist,  they  must  be  in   some   other   parallel   than    that   as- 

I'kiicd  to  them  in  the  American  Geographical  Table,  published  in 

On  the  'i.jth,  after  a  pleasant  passage  of  twenty  days,  we  saw 
liie  Island  of  Owyhee  ;  and  the  following  day  anchored  in  the  har- 
liour  of  Honoruru,  the  capital  of  the  Sandwich  Islands.      We  had 

I  ilic  satisfaction  to  meet  all  our  former  acquaintances  well,  and  to 
ivt'cive  their  congratulations  on  our  return  ;  wo  had  also  the  pleas- 
ure to  find  Mr.  Lay  the  naturalist  ready  to  resume  his  occupations. 

[During  our  absence,  he  had  unfortnnatrly  been  prevented  pursuing 
lii<  researches  among  the  islands  b)  a  severe  illness. 

Aller  the  usual  etitpiette  of  salutes,  I  visited  the  king  and  Kahu- 
miiii,  who  appeared  very  glad  of  our  arrival,  and  being  informed 

•liune  hern  recently  informed  that  an  island  of  moderate  heio-ht  has  been  peen 
IviheSullan  Anieriaii  whaler  in  latitnile  1.')°  :)(V  N.,  loi'Lntnde  h.-lvi'eu  VM)°  and 
l:il^  W.     Ai.il   tliut  auotlicr   was   landed   upon   in  latitude   1N°  0-2'  N.,   longitude 

IIIMV. 

44 


w 


voya<s^  to  the  pacific 


[Jan. 


f) 


that  the  ship  was  to  remain  a  few  weeks  in  the  harbour,  they  very 
kindly  appropriated  three  house'*  to  the  use  of  the  officers  and  niy- 
fet.lf,  and  seemed  determined  lipi  stfewv  by  other  ;uts  of  attention  that 
the  regard  they  had  always  esfpesied  for  our  nation  was  not  mereh 
an  empty  profession. 

In  my  first  visit  to  this  pfeace,  \  gave  a  sketch  of  the  ap,iearancp 
of  thf  town  of  Woahno  an*l  of  tibe  inliabrtant.*;    with   the   advances 


which  the  coimtry  appeared  so  bi*  luakin^  in  civihzation.       It 


may 


not  be  superifl^Mius  here  to  insert  ,)»i  verr  eoncbe  account  ol'  the 
islands  duriiie  I'fiie  last  few  years,  to  cswiblf  ny  readers  to  judge  more 
coi'rectly  of  th«v;  progress,  and  to  furnii*»h  infornialifw  to  such  as  rnav 
»ot  have  the  ilinvy^'  of  them  fresh  in  t!liii«iir  n^mories. 

At  the  time  the  ,^ndwich  Islands  weii<?  dis<*ovftred  by  Captain 
Cook,  Owyhee  wa^^  jnder  the  sovereignty  ®f  T'i!Tft)*oboo,  or  Ter- 
iopu,  who  died  shorl'l';'  lifter  the  departure  of  th«-  discovery  ships, 
Tamehameha,  who  csfterwards  became  so  cpiebrated,  was  the 
nephew  of  Terreoboo.  He  is  not  mer»tioned  in  the  oifiewl  account 
of  Cook's  voyage,  but  in  a  narrative  of  the  facts  I'elatiug  to  tlio 
death  of  the  great  navigator,  published  by  IVTr  Samwell,  the  siir- 
geon  of  the  Discovery,  Meah  Meah,  as  he  is  called  by  that  gentle- 
men, is  represented  to  have  slept  on  board  that  ship,  and  to  have 
had  with  him  a  magnificent  feather  cloak,  with  which  he  would  iiot 
part,  except  for  iron  daggers,  six  of  which  he  procured,  and  reinv 
ed  to  the  shore  well  pleased  with  his  bargain.  No  doubt  his  int':, 
tion  was  to  wrest  the  sovereignty  from  the  hands  of  the  successor 
of  Terreeoboo,  an  enterprize  which  he  performed  shortly  after- 
wards, by  assembling  his  forces  and  defeating  him  in  a  pitched  bat- 
tie,  in  which  he  is  said  to  have  slain  him  with  his  own  hands.  Al- 
ter this  victory,  no  other  chief  possessing  sufficient  power  to  oppo>e 
Tamehameha,  we  find  that  on  the  arrival  of  Vancouver  in  179^  he 
had  acquired  supreme  authority  both  in  Owyhee  and  Mowee.  He 
soon  afterwards  attacked  and  con(|ucred  Woahoo,  and,  assisted  by 
his  valiant  protege  Krymakoo,  in  1817  became  sovereign  of  all  the 
Sandwich  group. 

Vancouver  was  very  instrumental  in  establishing  the  power  of  this 
chief  on  a  firm  basis,  by  noticing  Tamehameha  in  a  manner  which 
could  not  escape  the  observation  of  the  other  chiefs,  and  by  build- 
ing him  a  decked  vessel,  which  gave  him  a  decided  superiority  of 
force,  and  enabled  him  to  keep  them  in  subjection.  In  return  for 
these  important  benefits,  the  grateful  chief,  in  presence  of  V'ancon- 
ver  and  the  Eries  of  the  group,  made  a  formal  cession  of  the  is- 
lands to  the  king  of  Great  Rritain,  and  the  natives  have  ever  sinre 
considered  themselves  under  the  im media' c  protection  ol  thi; 
coiiatry. 


mmm' 


IP 


1?27.] 


AND  BEERING  S  STRAIT. 


347 


In  the  early  stage  of  our  intercourse  with  tiiese  islands,  several 
acts,  such  as  the  death  of  Cook,  the  murder  of  L  •  iitenant  Her- 
jerst,  and  the  treacherous  seizure  of  an  American  vessel,  rendered 
nieichant  vessels  cautious  of  communicating  with  savages  of  ap- 
parently so  ferocious  a  character ;  but  when  it  was  known  that  the 
perpetrators  of  these  murders  were  punished  by  Tamehandia,  and 
ivlien  his  real  character  was  made  public  by  the  voyages  of  Vancou- 
ver and  other  navigators,  every  vessel  employed  in  tlie  Pacific  was 
desirous  of  visiting  his  dominions.  In  course  of  time  a  reg'jlar 
market  was  established  for  the  sale  of  the  productions  of  the  island  ; 
ihe  natives  were  instructed  to  accept  Spanish  dollars  and  European 
clotliiiig  in  exchange  for  their  goods,  and  several  foreigners^  by  tlie 
liing's  persuasion,  were  induced  to  settle  upon  the  ii^lanJs.  The  na- 
tive cliiefs,  in  imitation  of  their  sovereign,  began  to  dress  in  the  Euro- 
pean style.  A  fort  was  built  for  the  protection  of  the  principal 
lown,  and  a  number  of  the  natives  were  instructed  in  the  use  of 
lire-arms.  The  harbour  of  f  lonoruru  soon  became  crowded  with 
jjiips  of  all  nations,  and  latterly  the  place  has  assumed  the  appear- 
ance of  an  European  colony. 

The  discovery  of  sandal  wood  in  the  mountains  opened  a  profil- 
I  able  channel  of  commerce  ;  and  several  adventurers,  chiefly  from 
|ilie  United  States,  remained  to  collect  it  from  the  natives.  They 
bund  a  ready  market  for  it  in  China ;  the  goods  of  that  country 
ere  brought  in  return  to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  thus  was  laid 
jiiie  foundation  of  a  trade  which  still  continues.  Tamehameha  liav- 
lin!:  purchased  several  vessels  with  this  precious  wood,  attempted  to 
Iconduct  this  trade  with  his  own  resources,  and  sent  a  schooner 
Ikaring  his  flag  to  Canton  ;  but,  owing  to  the  forms  and  impositions 
jpractised  in  China,  and  other  circumstances  which  be  could  not 
Jcoim'ol,  the  speculation  failed,  and  this  advantageous  trade  has  since 
(been  carried  on  by  the  Americans. 

In  all  these  plans  for  the  benefit  of  his  country,  for  the  int'-oduc- 
lliou  of  civilization  among  his  subjects,  and  for  the  establisiiments  of 
Ills  assumed  authority,  Tamehameha  was  greatly  indebted  to  the 
laJvicc  and  assistance  of  two  respectable  English  seamen.  Young 
land  Davis,  whom  he  persuaded  to  remain  in  the  islands.  Their 
Services  were  not  unrequited  by  the  great  chief,  whose  generous  dis- 
Ipositiou  and  intimate  knowledge  of  human  nature  induced  him  to 
fetow  upon  them  both  rank  and  fortune,  by  raising  them  to  the 
lilation  of  chiefs,  and  giving  them  estates.  They  in  turn  proved 
hiatel'ul  to  their  benefactor,  and  conducted  themselves  so  properly 
llliat  every  visitor  to  the  islands  has  spoken  of  them  in  the  highest 
llernis.     Davis  died  in  1608,  and  was  buried  at  Woahoo,  where  the 


place  of  his  interment  is  » 
1  survives,  at  the  advanced 


ied  by  a  humble 


age  of  eighty-tw 


tombstone 
Besides 


Young 
these 


.1         I 
1  •' 


<■■< 


1 M^ 

y  my 


y 


h.  i 


1 ) 


1 

I 


.f«l;K 


348 


TOYAGE  TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[Jm. 


advisers,  Tamehamelia  had  a  faithful  and  wise   counsellor  in  Kry- 
niakoo,  afterwards  better  known  by  the  appellation  of  Billy  Pitt. 

Tamehamelia  having  seen  his  country  emerge  from  barbarism 
under  his  well-directed  eflbrts,  and  having  conferred  upon  it  other 
important  benefits,  died  in  May  ldl9,  at  the  age  of  sixty-three. 
His  biographer  will  do  him  injustice  if  he  does  not  rank  him,  how- 
ever  limited  his  sphere,  and  limited  his  means,  among  those  gre^ 
men  who,  like  our  Alfred,  and  Peter  the  Great  of  Russia,  have  res- 
cued their  countries  from  L-irbarIsm,  and  who  are  justly  esteemed 
the  benefactors  of  mankind,  lii'^  loss  as  a  governor,  and  as  a  fatli- 
er  to  his  people,  was  iinivcrsally  felt  by  his  subjects.  It  is  paiiifulto 
relate  that,  though  his  death  occurred  so  recently  several  human  vic- 
tims were  sacrificed  to  his  names  by  the  priests  in  the  morals  ;  and,  ac- 
cording to  the  custom  of  the  islands,  some  who  were  warmly  aitacli- 
ed  to  him  committed  suicide,  in  order  to  accompany  his  corpse  to 
the  grave  ;  while  great  numbers  knocked  out  their  'vuiit  teeth,  and 
otherwise  mutilated  and  disfigured  themselves. 

Tamehamelia  vvas  no  sooner  dead  than  his  son  Rio  Rio,  who 
succeeded  him,  efiected  the  most  important  change  tlic  country  had 
yet  experienced.  Having  held  conferences  with  the  Chiefs,  ami 
obtained  the  sanction  of  Keopuolani,  a  powerful  female  of  rank,  he 
ordered  all  the  morals  to  be  destroyed,  and  declared  the  religion  of 
the  ibreigners, — of  the  principles  of  which  he  was  then  very  l;j:no- 
rant,  should  henceforth  bo  the  religion  of  the  state.  The  buriiini; 
of  the  idols  and  the  abolition  of  the  taboo  immediately  succeeded 
this  destruction  of  the  morals,  and  put  an  end  to  many  cruel  and 
degrading  customs,  both  injurious  to  the  interests  of  the  country 
and  oppressive  to  the  people,  especially  to  the  females,  who  were  I 
thenceforth  admitted  to  an  equality  with  the  men. 

The  prejuilices  of  Tamehamelia  bad  ahvay^s  opposed  this  chanm  I 
in  the  religion  of  his  subjects,  not  so  much,  1  am  inforiuei!,  from  his  I 
being  bigoted  to  idolatry  as  from   its   being   better   adapted  to  his 
politics.      The  maxims  of  our  religion   he    thought   would  tend  to] 
deprive  him  of  that  despotic  power  which   he   exercised  over  the 
lives  and  fortunes  of  his  subjects.     The  terror  inspired  by  luiiium| 
ncrifices,  and  the  absolute  command  which  the  superstitions  of  his 
ic''.)1iaious  subjects  gave  him,  suiitnl  the  plan  of  his  government  het- 
ter  than  any  ol'.ier   religion,  and  he,  consecpiently,  oppose'"  every  | 
attempt  to  propagate  the  gospel  among  his  people. 

V])  to  this  period  no  missionaries  had  reached  the  Sandv.ich  h 
lands,  .lud  lor  nearly  a  year  there  might  be  said  to  be  no  religion  in  I 
tiie  couiiuy  ;  but  at  the  expiration  of   thai   period  (in    1H-<J(),)  sev- 
eral missionary  gentlemen  arrived  from  the  Unit(;d  States  and  inime-| 
diately  entered  upon  their  vocations.      Keopuolani  became  the  th< 
actual  convert  to  the  Christian  religion,  though  in  IdlD  both  iJuklj 


[Jan. 

nsellor  in  Kry- 
of  Billy  Pitt. 

from  barbaiisin 
d  upon  it  othur 

of    sixty-tlii'ce, 
,  rank  hivn,  how- 
long  those  great 
llvissia,  havercs- 
justly  esteemed 
lor,  and  as  a  fatli- 
s.     It  is  painful  to 
evcval  liuniaiivic- 
3  morals  ;  and.ac- 
!rc  warmly  altacli- 
ny   Ills  corpse  to 
ir  tV^nt  teeth,  and 

)n  Rio  Ilio,  wlio 
gc  tiie  country  liiul 
the   Chiefs,  and 
female  of  rank,  he 
red  the  religion  of 
as  then  very  ijno- 
itc.     The   burnins; 
jdiatoly   succeeded 
3  many   cruel  and 
ts  of   the  country 
'emales,  who  were 

ipposcd  this  change ' 
infoniH'il.  from  Ills  1 

|er   adapted  to  liis 
It   w(ndd  lend  to| 

[xerciscd  over  tlie 

Inspired  by  lunnim 
iiperstitions  of  liis| 
is  governniont  l)ct-| 
ly,  opposei'  every! 

le. 

Ithc  Sandwich  Iv 
Ito  bo  no  religion  in 
jjd  (in  lS-i(),)sev- 
Slates  and  inune- 
lii  became  llie  fn<i 
I  IdlU  both  Buki 


1827.] 


AND    BEERINg's    STRAIT 


349 


and  Krymakoo  were  baptized  by  the  clergymen  of  Captain  Frey- 
cinet's  ship.  Keopuolani  being  a  chief  of  powerful  inlluence,  her 
example  was  followed  by  a  great  many  persons,  and  the  missiona- 
ries have  since  added  daily  to  the  number  of  their  converts,  and 
liave  been  protected  by  the  government,  particularly  by  Kahumana 
and  Kapeolani,  two  female  chiefs  next  in  rank  to  Keopuolani,  and 
probably  first  in  power  in  the  islands. 

Keopuolani  died  in  18;2;3,  after  having  received   the  sacrament. 
She  was  a  grandchild  of  Terreeoboo,  and  a  daughter  of   Kevalao, 
nlio  was  slain  at  Mowee.     At  the  time  of  this  victory,  which   ad- 
ded Mowee  to  the  dominion  of  Tamehameha,  Keopuolani  was  only 
thirteen  years  of  age.     She  happened  to  be  on  the  field  at  the  mo- 
ment of  the  defeat  of  her  party,  and  became   the   ])risoner  of  the 
tonqiieror,  who,  in  order  to  secure  his  conquest  by  right  as  well  as 
by  victory,  united  her  to  himself  in  marriage.     She  had,  however, 
afterwards,  agreeably  to  the  custom   of   the  countiy,  several   hus- 
bands, of  which  one  was  Krymakoo,  who  also  fell  into  the  hands  of 
ihe  king  at  Mowee,  and  whose  life  was  generously  s|)ared  ;  and  an- 
odier,  Hoapiri,  wlio,  though  a  plebeian,  was  admitted    to  the  hon- 
our of  being  one  of  the  favourites  of  the  queen.      This  person  is 
ihe  reputed  father  of  Kiukiuli  the  present  king,  while  Tamehameha 
is  said  to  have  been  the  father  of  Rio-ilio.     The  queen,  however, 
declared  both  her  sons  to  be  children   of    the   illustrious  chief,  and 
ihey  'succeeded  to  the  throne  accordingly,  in  cases  of  this  nature  the 
declaration  of  the  mother  being  held  suliicicnt. 

Rio-Rio  is  represented  to  have  been  far   inferior   in   intellect   to 
ills  predecessor,  and  his  youth  and  inexperience  encouraged  the  su- 
perior chiefs  to  plan  means  for  recovermg  their  independciu'i.      At 
llie  moment  the  order  was  given  for  the  destruction  of  the   idols,  a 
diief  named  Kekoakalane  trcacherouslv    seized    the   war  god,  and 
joined  by  a  party  of  rebels  tied  with  it  to  Owyhee,  where  he  hoped 
10  excite  the  inliabitants  in  his  favour,  imd  to  establish  himself  as  an 
klependent  chief;   but  he  was  closely  pursued  by  tiie  gallant  Kry- 
niiikeo,  and  slain  at  Lakelakee,  and  hont  e  that   place    has   become 
celebrated,  as  the    spot   on    which    the    last  struggle   for  idolatry 
occurred.       Another    insurrection    soon    afterwards    occurred     at 
Atooi,  which    was    quieted    by    the    courage    and    ])romptitu(le  of 
Rii)-Rio,  who  embtaked  with  a  few  faithful    followers    in    a  canoe, 
and  in  a  personal  conference  brought  the  rebels  back  to  tlu'ir  duty. 
Atooi  was  the  last  of  the   Sandwich   Islands   that  was   reduced  to 
subjection  by  Tamehauieha,  and  its  chiefs  were  constantly   on   tiie 
watch  for  o[)p(n'lunities  of  recovering  their  independence.      JIussia, 
oral  least  her  sul)jects,  taking  advantage  of  the  disallected  state   of 
Atooi,  landed  some  gmis  upon  that  island,  and  erected  a  fort,  which 
H;is  taken  possession  of  by  the  natives.      Krymakoo,  however,  with 
a  body  of   followers    Ironi  Woahoo,  overthrew   the   rebels.      The 


',1  ' 


vf 


350 


VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[J(tn. 


H  h  li 


chief  being  permitted  to  choose  the  manner  of  his  death,  dosired 
that  he  might  be  carried  to  sea,  and  be  drowned  by  having  a  weii^ht 
fastened  round  his  neck.  In  addition  to  this  attempt  of  the  Hus- 
sians  to  separate  Atooi  from  the  kingdom,  it  was  supposed  that 
America  was  also  desirous  of  forming  a  settlement  upon  one  of  the 
islands.  Rio-Rio  foreseeing  that  occasional  rebellions  might  arise 
in  his  dominions,  through  the  interference  of  foreign  powers,  deter- 
mined on  a  voyage  to  England  to  have  a  personal  interview  ujth 
the  king,  under  whose  protection  the  islands  had  been  placed  by 
Tamehameha,  and  also,  perhaps,  from  a  desire  to  see  the  coiintiy 
which  furnished  articles  so  superior  to  the  nianufacures  of  his  own 
dominions. 

TIk;  death  of  Rio-Rio  and  his  queen,  it  is  well  known,  occuiTcd 
in  this  visit  to  England.  Their  bodies  were  conveyed  to  the  Sand- 
wich  islands  by  F,.ord  Byron,  in  II.  M.  Ship  Blonde,  and  Wkm] 
in  a  house  built  for  the  ))urpose,  where  they  still  remian.*  Lord 
Byron  having  given  the  Chiefs,  in  Boki's  words,  "good  »rlvice"'aml 
having  placed  the  crown  upon  the  head  of  Kiukiuli,  the  brother  of 
Rio  Rio,  and  seen  the  government  confided  to  Krymakoo  as  regent, 
quitted  the  islands  about  ten  months  before  our  first  arrival. 

Previous  to  the  death  of  Tamehameha,  sev^eral  European  lioi^p. 
appeared  in  Woahoo.  Vessels  and  warlike  stores  had  been  pur- 
chased with  sandal  wood.  The  navigation  of  the  Pacific  hocauie 
more  general  in  consecjuenceof  the  return  of  peace,  and  the  islands 
were  more  frequently  visited.  The  abolition  of  the  taboo  had  id- 
ready  produced  an  entire  change  in  the  state  of  society,  and  fre- 
quent interviews  witli  foreigners  created  amongst  ihe  inhabitants  a 
desire  for  dress  and  for  luxuries,  which  was  increased  by  the  visit 
of  the  chiefs  to  England.  Thus  improvement  advimced,  as  nii^lit 
have  been  exjiccted  under  such  advantageous  circumstances  as  lliose 
in  which  the  Sanduitdi  Islands  were  placed.  At  that  })oriod  of  our 
\isit  there  were  in  Woahoo  several  respectable  American  manu- 
facture, the  productions  of  the  China  market,  wines,  and  almost 
every  article  of  sea-store.  There  were  also  two  hotels,  at  which 
a  person  might  board  respectably  for  a  dollar  a  day  :  two  billiard 
rooius  one  of  which  was  the  property  of  Boki  :  and  tenor  a  dozen 
public  houses  for  retailing  spirits.  The  houses  of  the  chiefs  were 
furnished  with  tables  and  chairs,  and  those  belonging  to  Kaluiuiana 
with  silk  and  velvet  sofas  and  cushions.  Not  contented  with  the 
comfort?  of  life,  they  latterly  sought  its  luxuries,  and  even  indulged 

♦In  18'27,soino  of  tlio  Cliicfs  had  liocn  persuaded  tliat  it  was  improper  tokerpiiio 
bodies  above  g-nnuul,  and  tliesi   hciiiitirul  eofiiiiTi  covered   witl)    erini.soii  \(Iv(t  ■\n'\ 
silver  were  about  ti)  be  loweied  into  the   earth,  a?   ii   eniiiiiiendidile   mortilii  iiliori  •  I  I 
pridf,  when  they  were  prevented  hy  the  timely  v.'\    1  of   a  g-eiitleinau   from  wliom 
this  lucuunt  was  derived. 


^■.  -'^ 


[Jm.    m  1326.] 


AND    BEKRINn  S    STRAIT. 


351 


\n  its  extravagances.  Kaliuinana  filled  chests,  with  the  most  costly 
silks  of  China,  and  r.;.tually  expended  four-thousand  dollars  upon 
tlie  cargo  of  one  vessel.  Boki  paid  three  thousand  dollars  for  a  ser- 
vice of  plate  as  a  present  for  the  king,  notwithstanding  he  had  other 
(Civices  in  his  possession  ;  one  of  which  was  of  expensively  cut 
class  from  Pellatt  and  Green  in  London. 

"  Tliis  tirogress  of  luxury  was  attended  hy  an  equally  remarkable 
change  ..i  the  civ.'l  and  political  arrangments  of  the  country.  At 
liie  period  of  our  visit  the  king  was  idways  attended  by  a  guard  un- 
der arms ;  a  sentinel  presented  his  musket  when  an  officer  entered 
the  threshold  of  the  royal  abode  :  soldiers  paraded  the  ramparts  of  a 
fort  mounting  fort3^-guns  ;  and  "  all's  well"  was  repeated  through- 
out the  town  during  the  night.  The  harbour  in  the  spring  and  au- 
tumn was  crowded  with  foreign  vessels,  as  many  even  as  fifty  hav- 
ing been  seen  there  at  one  time ;  five  thousand  stand  of  arms 
ivere  said  to  be  distributed  over  the  island ;  three  hundred  men 
iiere  embodied  and  dressed  in  regimentals ;  and  the  Sandwich 
Mand  flag  was  daily  displayed  by  five  brigs  and  eight  schooners. 
[  The  islands  had  already  received  consuls  from  Great  Britian  and 
lie  United  States ;  had  concluded  treaties  of  alliance  with  them  ; 
11(1  we  have  just  heard  that  their  spirit  of  enterprize  has  induced 
lihem  to  fit  out  and  despatch  an  expedition  to  take  possession  of 
I  some  of  the  islands  of  the  New  Hebrides. 

This  state  of  advancement,  considering  the  remoteness  of  the 
hiluation  of  these  islands,  and  the  little  intercourse  they  have  hith- 
IhIo  held  with  the  civilized  world,  could  hardly  have  been  anticipa- 
Iied;  and  we  hope  it  may  not  prove  too  rapid  to  be  advantageous 
lipthe  country,  which  has  now  several  extensive  establishments  to 
|mintain,  and  extravagant  ideas  to  satisfy,  with  means  evidently  di- 
miiiishing,  if  not  nearly  exhausted.  The  treasures  accuuuilated  by 
iTamchameha,  and  the  supply  of  that  precious  wood  which  has 
Ifceenso  instrumental  in  bringing  the  islands  into  notice,  have  been 
litained  to  meet  the  expenses  of  ruinous  purchases  which  have  nia- 
Iierially  contributed  to  the  apparent  show  of  grandeur  and  prosperity 
Ishove  mentioned.  The  sandal  wood,  it  is  known,  requires  many 
lyears  to  arrive  at  a  fit  state  for  the  market,  and  its  cultivation  not 
m\'m%  been  attended  to,  the  wood  is  now  bocoming  scarce,  while 
lllie  debt  of  the  nation  has  considerable  increased.  During  our  visit, 
lin  Older  to  avoid  the  expense  attending  the  collection  of  this  wood 
lii  became  necessary  to  levy  a    tax  upon  the  ])eople   of  a  pecul,  or 

'to  brim:  from  the   mountains, 


5y 


,'qui 


Imder  a  penalty  of  four  dollars,  and  to  deposit  with  the  authorities 
liHonoruru  for  the  purpose  of  liquidating  the  debt  of  the  nation. 
iThe  greater  part  of  the  wood  brought  in  was  small  and  crooked, 
1  only  fit  for  the  use  of  the  Jos   houses   in   China,   where   it    is 


i'         ^ 


III  • 


. 


.1 


Hh 


W, 


■'■\t 


t  ^ 


/:^f' 


352 


VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


{Nov 


burned  as  incense,  but  the  consumption  of  it  there  is  diniinisliinr 
in  consequence  of  an  order  for  its  disuse  in  those  places  of  worshiif 
Tiie  odour  of  the  sandal  wood  of  the  Sandwich  Islands  is  very  in- 
ferior  that  of  Malabar,  Ceylon,  and  other  parts  of  India.  Willi  the 
exception  of  the  profits  arising  from  the  sale  of  sandal  wood,  of  suit, 
and  from  the  port  dues,  and  from  the  advantage  derived  from  iiier^ 
chant  vessels  visiting  the  islands  for  refreshments,  there  is  no  reve- 
nue  of  consequence  ;  certainly  none  that  is  at  all  adequate  to  meet 
the  expenses  of  the  nation. 

The  chiefs,  foreseeing  the  approaching  crisis,  are  anxious  to  avail 
thcniclves  of  any  prospect  of  an  increase  of    revenue.       Thus  nt- 
tempts  have  bct-ii  made  to  manufacture  sugar  from  the  canes  which 
grow  very  abundantly  and  in  great  luxuriance  in   the  islands ;  and 
1  sincerely  hope  that  i\Ir.  Marini,  who  has   hitherto  been  of  ihr; 
greatest  benefit  to  the  goveninient  of  Woalioo,  may  sucecd  in  the 
mill  which  he  was  cor.slructing  for  this"|  purpose  during  our  vi>li. 
But  machines  of  this  nature  have  already  cost    a  very  large  siiin, 
and  have  not   hitherto  succeeded,  partly,  perhaps,  in  consequcme 
of  the  want  of  proper  materials.       A   cargo  of    this   sugar  it  \v;is| 
hoped  would  be  ready  for  exportation  in  18-27,  which  was  then  to 
be  carried  to  the  Californian  market,  where,  as  it  has  already  been 
said,  sugar  attains  a  high  price.      But  the  Sandwich  Islands,  until 
much  more  advanccfl  in  the  science  of  cultivation,  will  always  havel 
to  compete  with  manilla  in  the   sale  of  this  material.      Tobacco, 
coffee,  and  spices  have  been  introduced  into  the  islands,  and  it  is| 
to  be  hoped  they  will  succeed  under  the  fostering  had  of  the  inde- 
fatigable individual  before  mentioned.      An  attempt  was  niiide  tol 
encourage  the  planting  of  cotton,  which  was  tolerably  successfi 
the  first  year,  but  for  some  reasons,  which  were  ascribed  to  lli 
rigid  observance  of  the  church  duties,  the  labourers  were   prevcntJ 
ed  from  gathering  the  crop,  and  it  rotted  in  the  pod.     It  is  iiartirii.| 
larly   unlbilunate  that  the  atl(>mpt  to  cultivate   this  plant,  vViclJ 
would  be  of  great  advantage  to  the  islands,  should  have  failed  li'jtlJ 
in  the  Society  and  Sandwich  groups,  as  it  will  probably  disooun^ef 
the  inhabitants  from  any  further  endeavour  to  produce  it.     Sattliai 
been  collected  from  some  lakes  near  the  town,  and   for  some  tinia 
past  has  produced  a  small  revenue.     Hereafter  it  is  likely  to  be  iij 
greater  rctiuest,  for  the  purpose  of  curing  meat  for  sea  store,  or  loi 
exportation  to  Kamschatka,  where  it  is  in  great  demand.     Flux  oj 
a  good  quality  grows  upon  Owhyhce,  and  rope   for  the  vessels 
the  country  is  made  from  a  species  of   urticn  1     As  jet,  lioweverl 
the  sandal  wood  is  the  only  matei'ial  that  has  produced  any  reveniid 
of  consequence. 

Soon  after  the  Christian  religion   had  been  introduced   into 
Sandwich  Islands,  several  of  the  chiefs  were  taught  to  read  and  vvriiel 


AND    BEERINO  S    STUAIT. 


.353 


and  were  so  delighted  at  the  idea  of  being  able  to  comiminicatc  their 
thouglits  to  friends  at  a  distance,  without  the  necessity  of  disclosing 
then!;  and  free  from  the  risk  of  misinterpretation,  that  some  of  the 
scholars  laboured  at  their  task  as  if  the  prosperity  of  the  islands  depen- 
jed  upon  penmanship  alone.  Education  in  other  respects  has 
liiado  much  slower  progress  than  every  well-wisher  ol'  the  country 
foidd  desire.  A  few  individuals  who  have  had  the  advantage  of 
fontinucd  instruction,  have  acquired  a  limited  knowledge  of  the 
Scriptures,  but  many  remain  ignorant  even  of  the  nature  of  the 
prayers  they  repeat;  and  in  other  subjects  are  entirely  uninstructed. 

The  missionaries  appear  to  be  very  anxious  to  difuse  a  due 
knowledge  of  the  tenets  of  the  Gospel  among  all  the  inhabitants, 
and  have  laboured  much  to  accomplish  their  praiseworthy  purpose  : 
but  the  residents  in  Honururu  well  know  what  little  effect  their  tu- 
tors having  mistaken  the  means  of  diffusing  education.  In  the  San- 
dwich Islands,  as  in  all  other  places,  there  is  a  mania  for  every 
thing  new,  and,  with  due  reverence  to  the  subject,  this  was  very 
Hiucli  the  case  with  religion  in  Honoruru,  where  almost  every  person 
might  be  seen  hastening  to  the  school  with  a  slate  in  his  hand,  in 
i!ie  hope  of  being  able  soon  to  transcribe  some  part  of  the  "pala  pa- 
id (the  Scriptures).  This  feeling  under  judicious  management 
might  have  produced  the  greatest  blessings  Woahoo  could  have  en- 
pyed  :  and  the  gentlemen  of  the  mission  might  have  congratulated 
iheniselves  on  having  bestowed  upon  the  inhabitants  very  important 
benefits.  But  they  were  misled  by  the  eagerness  of  their  hopes, 
ind  their  zeal  carried  them  beyond  the  limits  calculated  to  prove 
kneficial  to  the  temporal  interests  of  a  people,  still  in  the  earliest 
iiaje  of  civilization.  The  apparent  thirst  after  scriptural  knowl- 
idie  in  Honoruru  created  a  belief  among  the  missionaries  that  this 
ieling  was  become  general,  and  auxiliary  schools  were  established 
n  different  parts  of  the  island,  at  which  we  were  mformed  every 
id'jlt  was  required  to  attend  several  times  a  day. 

While  this  demand  upon  their  time  was  confined  within  reasona- 
lile  limits,  the  chiefs,  generally,  were  glad  to  find  their  subjects  lis 
ten  to  instruction  ;  but  when  men  were  obliged  to  quit  their  work, 
and  to  repair  to  the  nearest  auxiliary  scho-^'  so  frequently  during 
tlie  day,  so  much  mischief  was  produced  by  loss  of  labour,  and 
iuch  ruinous  consequences  threatened  the  country,  that  many  of 
ilie  chiefs  became  desirous  of  checking  it.  Kahumana  and  her 
party,  however,  persisted  in  considering  it  desirable,  and  in  suppor- 
ting tlie  missionaries  ;  while  a  powerful  party,  at  the  head  of  which 
wre  the  king  and  the  regent,  exerted  themselves  to  counteract 
ibeir  endeavours.  Thus  dissensions  arose  very  prejudicial  both  to 
ilie  cause  of  religion  and  to  the  interests  of  the  country.  The 
thiefs  lost  their  influence,  the  subjects  neglected  their  work, 
45 


/:^f 


351 


VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[Jan 


on  the  one  side,  and  intemperance  on  the  otlier,  became  the  pie. 
vailing  errors  of  the  time  ;  ilie  latter  indulged  in  jjrobably  to  a  great- 
er extent,  with  the  view  of  bringing  ridicule  on  the  opposite  party ; 
a  scheme  in  which  it  is  said  that  IJoki  himself  condescendt.'d  to  join. 

At  length  the  regent  and  other  chiefs  determined  to  break  tliioii'li 
this  rigid  discipline.  The  ten  commandments  had  been  recom- 
mended  as  the  sole  law  of  the  land.  This  proposition  was  ohsti- 
nately  opposed  ;  a  meeting  was  called  by  the  missionaries  to  jusiitV 
their  conduct,  at  which  they  lost  ground  by  a  proposal  that  the 
younger  part  of  the  community  only  should  be  obliged  to  attend  the 
schools,  and  that  the  men  should  be  permitted  to  continuu  at  their 
daily  labour.  The  king,  whose  riding,  bathing,  and  other  exercises 
had  been  restricted,  now  threw  off  all  restraint,  and  appeared  in 
public  wearing  the  sword  and  feather  belonging  to  the  uniform  pre- 
sented to  him  from  this  country  by  Lord  Byron,  which  his  preco]i- 
tor  had  forbid  iiim  to  use,  under  the  impression  that  it  might  cxciie 
his  vanity.  The  boys,  following  the  example  of  their  youthful 
sovereign,  resumed  their  games,  which  had  been  suppressed :  and 
among  other  acts  which,  though  aparently  trifling  discovered  to  the 
common  people  a  spirit  of  opposition,  and  an  earnestness  on  the 
part  of  the  chiefs  to  overthrow  the  system  that  had  been  hvoudit 
into  operation,  Koanoa,  who  had  long  been  enarmoured  of  a  female 
chief,  Kenow,  whom  Kahumana  intended  for  the  king  (altlious;h 
she  was  old  enough  to  be  his  mother),  being  refused  the  marriage 
ceremony  by  the  mission,  carried  off  the  object  of  his  desire,  and 
took  her  to  his  home. 

This  was  the  state  in  which  we  found  Woahoo,  and   from  it  the  j 
missionaries  might  exact  a  useful    lesson   while  imparting  religious 
instruction  to  mankind,  of  the  necessity  of  combining  their  temporal 
interests  with  those  which  relate  to  their  prospects  of  futf  ;y. 

It  was  supposed,  from  the  manner  in  which  Kahumana  persever- 
ed in  her  support  of  the  missionaries,  that  she  was  actuated  by  a  I 
deeper  policy  than  appeared.  Her  jealousy  at  the  investment  of 
the  sovereign  power  in  the  king  and  Boki  was  well  known  ;  and  it 
was  surmised  that  she  entertained  hopes  of  creating  a  party  which 
in  the  event  of  the  death  of  Pitt,  then  daily  expected,  would  for- 
ward her  ambitious  views.  Whether  this  surmise  was  just  I  do  not  I 
pretend  to  say  ;  but  she  certainly  did  not  succeed,  that  event  hav- 
ing passed  off  during  our  stay  without  any  movement  in  her  fa- 
vour. 

Amidst  this  conflicting  interest  of  parties,  we  were  gratified  to  ob- 
serve the  cordiality   between  the  chiefs  and  the  English  and  Amer- 
ican residents,  neither  of  whom   took  part  in  these  State  quarrels,] 
To  strengthen  this   feeling,  a  public   dinner  was  given    by  the  offi 
cers  of  the  Blossom  and  myself  to  the  king  and  all  the  royal  family. 


conlimu;  at  their 
id  other  exevciscs 
and  appeared  in 
the  iinil'onn  piv- 
\vhicti  his  preccp- 
at  it  might  excite 
of  their  youthful 
suppressed :  iind 
discovered  to  the 
arnestness  on  the 
had  been  bvousht 
loured  of  a  female 
le    king  (altlioush 
ised    the  maniaje 
of  his  desire,  and 


1S27.] 


AND    BUEUING  S    STRAIT. 


355 


the  consuls,  the  chiefs,  and  the  principal  merchants  resident  in  the 
place.  On  tills  occasion  the  kiiiij;  was  recei\ed  with  the  honours 
due  to  hi'^  rank.  Ho  was  (h'essed  in  fidl  uniform,  and  altoi^ether 
made  a  very  elegant  apjiearance.  His  hcliuviour  at  table  was 
iiiarlvcd  with  the  greatest  propriety,  and  though  he  seemed  fully 
anarc  of  the  superiority  of  Europeans,  he  appeared  at  the  same 
[ime  conscious  that  the  attentions  he  received  were  no  more  than  a 
just  tribute  to  his  rank,  lioki,  the  regent,  Koanoa,  the  colonel  of 
iroops,  and  Manuia.  the  captain  of  the  port,  were  dressed  in  the 
Windsor  uniform  ;  and  Kahumana,  and  the  two  female  chiefs  next 
ill  rank,  were  arrayed  in  silk  dresses,  and  had  expended  a  profu- 
sion of  lavender-water  upon  their  cambric  handkerchiefs.  Many 
loyal  and  patriotic  toasts  succeeded  the  dinner,  some  of  which  were 
proposed  by  IJoki,  in  compliment  to  the  king  of  England  and  the 
['resident  of  the  United  States,  between  both  of  whom  and  his  roy- 
al protege  he  expressed  a  hope  that  the  warmest  friendship  would 
ahvays  subsist.  The  chiefs  drank  to  the  health  of  several  persons 
tvho  had  shown  them  attention  in  London,  and  in  compliment  to 
llie  ladies  of  England  proposed  as  a  toast,  "  The  pretty  girls  of  the 
Adelphy."  Throughout  the  day  the  islanders  acquitted  themselves 
very  creditably,  and  their  conduct  showed  a  close  observance  of 
European  manners. 
A  few  days  afterwards  the  king  gave  an  entertainment,  at   which 

I  his  guests  were  seated  at  a  long  table  spread  in  the  European  style, 
and  furnished  with  some  very  good  wines.  Among  other  good 
things  we  had  Leuhow,  a  dish  of  such  delicious  quality  that  excur- 
sions are  occasionally  made  to  the  plantations  for  the  pleasure  of 
dining  upon  it ;  and,  from  this  circumstance,  a  pic-nic   and  a  Leu- 

liiow  party  have  become  nearly  synonymous.      The    ingredients  of 

I  the  dish  are  generally  the  tops  of  the  taro  plant  and  mullet  which 
liave  been  fattened  in  ponds ;  these  are  wrapped  in  large  leaves 
£ad  baked  in  the  grounil,   though   sometimes   fowls   and   pork   are 

I  used.  In  order  to  amuse  us,  the  king  had  also  assembled  several 
(lancers  and  the  best  bards  in  the  island  ;  and  we  had  the  pleasure 
of  witnessing  some  native  performances,  which  were  the  more  inter- 

1  Citing,  as  these  entertainments  will  shortly  lose  all  their  originality 
by  the  introduction  of  foreign  customs.  On  the  present  occasion, 
[indeed,  it  was  diflicult  to  procure  performers  of  any  celebrity,  and 
botli  bards  and  dancers  were  sent  for  from  a  considerable  distance  ; 
and  even  then  only  two  of  the  latter  were  considered  worth  our 
notice.  The  performance  opened  with  a  song  in  honour  of  Tani- 
|ehameha,  to  which  succeeded  an  account  of  the  visit  of  Rio  Rio 
nd  his  queen  to  England  ;  their  motives  for  undertaking  the  voy- 
I ije  were  explained  ,  'hLir  parting  with  their  friends  at  Woahoo  ; 
liieir  sea-sickness ;  their  !inding  in  England  ;    the  king's  attempts 


/.     ..  • 


\ 


^p 


.0^.  \^t 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0    i^^ 


I.I 


1.25 


U.  11.6 


Hiorsgraphic 

Scences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  e72-4503 


4^ 


l\ 


iV 


\ 


:\ 


'1>\^^^ 
^ 


.*!.' 


1 


356 


VOYxVGE    TO    THK    PACIFIC 


[Fc/j. 


4« 


»  I'm 

"1 


to  speak  English  ;  the  beautiful  women  of  tbis  country  ;  and  the 
sickness  and  death  of  the  youthful  royal  pair,  were  described  with 
much  humour,  good-nature,  and  feeling. 

The  natives  were  delighted  with  this  performance,  especially 
with  that  part  which  exhibited  the  sea-sickness,  and  the  efforts  of 
the  king  to  speak  English ;  but  our  slight  acquaintance'  with  the 
language  did  not  enable  us  fully  to  appreciate  the  allusions.  In  the 
next  performance,  however,  this  defect  was  less  felt.  The  song 
was  executed  by  three  celebrated  bards,  whose  grey  beards  hung 
down  upon  their  breasts  :  they  were  clothed  in  their  rude  native 
costume,  and  each  had  the  under  part  of  his  right  arm  tattooed  in 
straight  lines  from  the  wrist  to  the  armpit.  They  accompanied 
themselves  upon  drums  made  of  two  gourds  neatly  joined  together, 
and  ornamented  with  black  devices.  Each  bard  had  one  of  these 
instruments  attached  to  his  left  wrist  by  a  cord  ;  the  instrument 
was  placed  upon  a  cushion,  and  the  performer  throughout  measured 
time  by  beating  with  his  right  hand  upon  the  aperture  of  the  gourd. 
The  subject  related  to  the  illustrious  Tamehameha,  whose  warlike 
exploits  are  the  constant  theme  of  the^-e  people.  Occasionally 
the  bards  seemed  to  be  inspired  ;  they  struck  their  left  breasts  vio- 
lently with  the  palms  of  their  hands,  and  performed  a  number  of 
evolutions  with  their  drums,  all  of  which  were  executed  simulta- 
neously, and  with  ease,  decision,  and  grace.  On  the  whole  it  was 
an  exhibition  very  creditable  to  the  talents  of  the  performers.  To 
this  succeeded  several  dances  :  the  first,  performed  by  a  native  of 
Atooi,  was  recommended  principally  by  a  display  of  muscular  en- 
ergy ;  the  next  was  executed  by  a  man  who  was  esteemed  the 
most  accomplished  actor  of  his  time  in  Woahoo,  and  the  son  of  the 
most  celebrated  dancer  the  islands  ever  had.  He  wore  an  abund- 
ance of  native  cloth,  variously  stained,  wrajiped  about  his  waist, 
and  grass  ornaments  fixed  upon  his  legs  above  the  ancles.  A  gar- 
land of  green  leaves  passed  over  his  right  shoulder  and  under  his 
left  arm,  and  a  wreath  of  yellow  blossoms,  very  commonly  worn  in 
the  Sandwich  Islands,  was  wound  twice  round  his  head.  Unlike 
the  former  dance,  the  merit  of  this  consisted  in  an  exhibition  of 
graceful  action,  and  a  repetition  of  elegant  and  unconstrained  move- 
ments. 

The  dance  of  the  females  was  spoiled  by  a  mistaken  refinement, 
which  prevented  their  appearing,  as  formerly,  with   no  other  dress  I 
than  a  covering  to  the  hips,  and  a  simple  garland  of  flowers  upon 
the  head ;  instead  of  this  they  were  provided  with  frilled  chemises,  j 
which  so  far  from  taking  away  the  appearance  of  indecency,  pro- 
duced an  opposite  efTect,  and  at  once  gave  the  performance  a  stamp 
of  indelicacy.     In  this  dance,  which  by  the  way  is  the  only  one  the  I 
females  of  these  islands  have,  they  ranged  themselves  in  a  line,  ami 


i^.1  .    ■*  ' 


•-1 

K 


AND    BKEKING  S    STKAIT. 


357 


intry  ;   and  the 
described  with 

ancc,  especially 
i  the   efforts  of 
mtance-  with  the 
llusions.     In  the 
elt.      The  song 
■ey  beards  hung 
heir  rude  native 
arm  tattooed  in 
,ey   accompanied 
f  joined  together, 
lad  one  of  these 
;    the  instrument 
jughout  measured 
ture  of  the  gourd. 
a,  whose  warlike 
,e.      Occasionally 
ir  left  breasts  vie- 
(led  a  number  of 
executed  simulta- 
the  whole  it  was 
;  performers.    To 
pd  by  a  native  of 
r  of  muscular  en- 
vas  esteemed  the 
and  the  son  of  the 
;  wore  an  ahund- 
about  his  waist, 
e  ancles.     A  gav- 
ler  and  under  Im 
;ommonly  worn  in  | 
lis  head."    Unlike 
an  exhibition  of 
iconstrained  move- 

Istaken  refinement, 
Ih  no  other  (he?^ 
of  flowers  upon! 
Ih  frilled  chemise^: 
If  indecency,  pio- 
Mormancc  a  stamp 
Jis  the  only  one  the 
lelves  in  aline,  ami 


began  swinging  the  arms  carelessly,  but  not  ungracefully,  from  side 
to  side  ;  they  then  proceeded  to  the  more  active  part  of  the  dance, 
the  principal  art  of  which  consisted  in  twisting  the  loins  without 
moving  the  feet  or  the  bust.  After  fatiguing  themselves  in  accom- 
plishing this  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  spectators,  they  jumped  side- 
vise,  still  twisting  their  bodies,  and  accompanying  their  actions  with 
a  chorus,  the  words  of  which  we  supposed  bore  some  allusion  to 
ihe  performance.  We  had  afterwards  a  sham-fight  with  short 
ipeais,  wherein  very  little  skill  was  exhibited,  and,  compared  with 
the  dexterity  of  the  warlike  Tamehameha,  who  is  said  by  Van- 
couver to  have  successfully  evaded  six  spears  thrown  at  him  at  the 
iame  instant,  the  present  representation  was  quite  contemptible. 
These  exercises  are  now  seldom  practised,  and  in  a  short  time,  no 
doubt,  both  they  and  the  dances  will  cease  to  be  exhibited. 

On  the  12th  of  February,  we  received  the   melancholy   intelli- 
gence of  the  death  of  Krymakoo,  who  had  long  suffered  under  a 
dropsical  complaint,  for  which  he  had  undergone  frequent  operations. 
Only  four  days  previously  he  went  to  bathe  in  the  sea  at  Kairnu,  in 
Oivyhee,  and  on  coming  out  of  the  water  he  was  taken  ill,  and  died 
very  soon  afterwards.     He  was  at  an  advanced  age.,  and  had  been 
j  present  at  the  death  of  our  immortal  countryman  in  Karakakoa  Bay, 
and  perfectly  recollected  that  fatal  transaction.      Krymakoo,  or,  as 
lie  was  more  generally  called,  Pitt,  from  the  circumstance  of  his 
heing  a  contemporary  prime  minister  with  our  great  statesman,  be- 
came a  protege  of   Tamehameha  shortly   after  the   departure   of 
Cook's  ships.     He  is  first  introduced  to  our  notice  by  Vancouver, 
Inho  particularly  remarks  his  superior  '.r.inners  and  conduct.      His 
life  was  devoted  to  the  adantage  of  his  country,  and  to  the  support 
hf  his  illustrious  patron,  in  whose  service  he  distinguished  himself 
lalike  as  a  warrior  and  a  counsellor.     Intelligent,  faithful,  and  brave, 
he  was  confided  in  and  beloved  by  his  king  and  his  countrymen,  and 
lilt  was  a  chief  in  whom  the  foreign  residents   place   implicit  reli- 
ance.    His  ardent  spirit  and  anxiety  for  the  welfare  of  his  country 
I  led  Tamehameha  on  one  or  two  occasions  of  insurrection  to  suspect 
liis  fidelity,  and  in  order  to  put  it  to  the  test  he  is  said  to   have  de- 
Iprived  him  for  the  time  of  his  estates  ;  an  act  of  injustice,  calculated 
liailier  to  increase  than  to  allay  any  dissatisfaction  that  mignt  have 
lexisted  in  his   mind.      Pitt,  nevertheless,  remained    faithful,  and 
fought  by  the  side  of  his  patron.     After  the  death  of  Tamehameha, 
he  enjoyed  almost  sovereign  power,  which  he  employed   to  the 
benefit  and  civilization  of  his  countrymen.     His  command  of  tem- 
Iper  was  not  less  praiseworthy  than  his  other  virtues.     On  the  occa- 
hion  of  some  misunderstanding  betweeu  the  missionaries  and  the  sea- 
Imen  of  an  American  vessel,  the  crew  went  on  shore  with  the  view  of 

burning  Mr.  Bingham's   house,  but,  mistaking  the   place,  they   set 


'^1 


m 


M 


358 


VOYAGE  TO  TllL  PACIFIC 


U'U. 


I  i 


. 


■^ 


fire  to  one  belonging  to  Pitt.  The  natives  iminediately  flew  to  pro- 
tcct  the  property  of  their  fuvourite  chief,  and  a  serious  quarrel  was 
about  to  take  place,  to  the  disadvantage  of  the  Americans,  when 
Pitt,  who  had  escaped  the  flames,  harangued  the  mob  with  the 
greatest  composure,  induced  them  to  desist  from  acts  of  violence, 
and  persuaded  the  crew,  who  by  this  time  had  discovered  their 
mistake,  to  return  to  their  vessel.  It  has  been  asserted  of  Pitt  that 
he  was  extremely  ambitious  ;  but  his  ambition  seems  to  have  haj 
no  other  object  than  the  welfare  of  his  country  :  had  he  aspired  to 
the  crown,  there  were  many  favourable  opportunities  of  whicli  bo 
might  have  availed  himself  without  much  risk  of  failure,  of  which 
the  death  of  Tamehameha,  the  revolt  of  Kekoakalane,  the  insur- 
rection of  Atooi,  and  others,  are  sufficient  instances.  He  left  one 
son,  whom  he  was  very  anxious  to  have  educated  in  England,  and 
pressed  his  request  so  earnestly  t'lat  1  had  consented  to  take  hini 
on  board  the  Blossom,  but  the  vessel  which  was  sent  to  bring  liim 
from  Owyhee  returned  hastily  with  the  news  of  the  death  of  the 
chief,  which  frustrated  the  plan.  Immediately  this  event  was  known 
the  flags  of  the  forts  and  the  shipping  were  lowered  half-mast,  and 
the  shores  of  the  bay  resounded  with  the  wailings  of  the  inhab- 
itants. 

It  had  been  supposed  that  the  ambition  and   jealousy  of  Kabu- 
mana  and  the  conflicting  interests  of  the  chiefs  would  have  display. 
ed  themselves  in  insurrection  on  this  occasion,  and  that  the  disaf-j 
fected  chiefs  would  have   availed  themselves  of   this   moment  to 
remove  the  supreme  power  from  the  hands  of  the  young  kini'; 
but,  whatever  results  this  melancholy  event  might  have  produced! 
had  it  occurred  at  an  earlier  date,  nothing  was  now  attempted.     Boki, 
however,  thought  it  prudent  to  assemble  the  troops  in  the  fort,  and 
the  Blossom  was  put  in  readiness  to  preserve   order,   if   necessary, 
and  to  receive  the  foreign  residents,  should  their  safety  require  it, 
Anxious  to  witness  the  effect  of  this  occurrence  upon   the  court,  I 
immediately  paid  a   visit  of  condolence   to   Kahumana,  wlio  wasj 
seated  amidst  a  motley  assemblage  of  attendants,  looking  very  sor-[ 
rowful.      It  appeared,  however,  from  the  following  incident,  tliatl 
the  sincerity  of  her  grief  was   questionable.      Happening  to  cajtl 
her  eye  upon  a  Bramah  inkstand  which   I   was  conveying  to  tliel 
observatory,  she  seized  it  with  both  hands,  and  declared,  her  coun- 
tenance brightening  into  a  smile,  how  much  she  should  like  to  iiavs 
it.     As  it  was  the  only  one  1  possessed,  I  did  not  intend  at  first  loj 
grr'ify  her  majesty's  wisiies,  but  she  fairly  tore  it  from  me  :  sotlial,! 
making  a  virtue  of  necessity,  I  presented  it  to  her.     After  bestowJ 
ing  some  praise  upon  the  invention,  she  passed  it  to  Karui,  a  feniiilel 
chief  next  in  rank  to  herself,  and  then  dismissing  her  pleasant  looks,! 


m' 


fcU^i   ■"•'W 


AND    BEEUING  S    STItAIT. 


359 


ely  flew  to  pro- 
ous  quarrel  was 
.mcricans,  when 
mob   with  tho 
:ts  of   violence, 
discovered  ilieir 
srted  of  Pitt  thai 
ins  to  have  had 
lad  he  aspired  lo 
ies  of   which  he 
failure,  of  which 
calane,  the  insur- 
es.    He  left  one 
I  in  England,  and 
ited   to   take  hiin 
sent  to  bring  liim 
the  death  of  ihi; 
3  event  was  known. 
red  half-mast,  and 
ngs  of   the  inhab- 

jealousy  of  Kalm- 
vould  have  displiiy- 
md  that  the  disaf-i 
f   this   moment  to 
the  young  kins:; 
ght  have  produced 
attempted.     Mi, 
lops  in  the  fort,  and 
,i-der,   if   neccssiuy, 
safety  rcqu'm  it. 
,  upon   the  court,  1 
lahumana,  who  was 
.,  looking  very  sor 
iwing  incident,  tk 
JHappening  to  cast] 
conveying  to  tlie 
declared,  her  coun- 
should  like  to  luvo 
ot  intend  at  first  lo 
lit  from  me  :  so  that,] 
icr.     After  bestow 
X  to  Karui,  a  femal 
her  pleasant  looks 


jlie  resumed  her  sorrow,  and  convinced  every  person  present  that 
slie  was  quite  an  adepf.  in  this  barbarous  custom  of  the  country. 

Many  of  the  court  seemed  to  consider  this  moment  one  of  ap- 
prehension, and  every  person  who  approached  tho  queen's  abode 
^^as  at  first  supposed  be  the  bearer  of  the  news  of  some  insurrec- 
tion or  other  convulsion  of  the  state.  As  he  entered  the  room, 
therefore,  there  was  a  dead  silence  ;  but  when  it  was  found  that 
these  visits  w"re  made  merely  to  inquire  after  the  health  of  the 
(lueen,  the  wailing,  as  if  it  had  suffered  bj  the  disappointment, 
burst  forth  with  redoubled  energy.  Kahumana  herself  evidently 
anticipated  some  disturbance,  for  she  whispered  to  me  to  be  upon 
inv  guard,  as  there  was  a  probability  that  the  people  would  be  mis- 
chievous. Nothing,  however,  occurred  to  disturb  the  tranquillity 
of  the  town  but  the  wailings  around  tho  royal  abode. 

It  is  unnecessary  here  to  describe  many  instances  of  the  extent 
to  which  tliis  liypocritical  aflectation  of  grief  was  carried  ;  suffice 
iitosay,  that  several  persons,  as  if  t^ptermined  to  perpetuate  the 
barbarous  practice  of  self-mutilation,  knocked  out  their  front  teeth 
irith  hammers. 

Tho  queen  almost  immediately  after  the  death  of  her  brother 
embarked  for  Owyhee  in  a  native  schooner,  to  the  great  satisfaction 
of  the  chiefs  and  the  Eurc  pean  residents  in  Woahoo.  As  it  was 
probably  the  last  time  she  vould  see  us,  she  was  complimented  with 
1  royal  salute  on  leaving  the  harbour. 


"Sxt 


•■♦  ^  f  i  H 


t,- 


3G0 


VOYACE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Feb. 


I'M;) 


[\rM4i 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


Further  Remarks  on  the  Inhabitants — Treaty  of  Alliance— Climate — Medicinal  Pro- 
perties of  the  Ava — Supplici- — Departure — Pussiinr-e  to  China — Ladrone  and  B;i- 
shcc  Islands — Arrival  at  Micao— Transactions  there — Departure — Bottl  Tobaw 
Xinia — Arrival  at  the  Great  Loo  Choo. 

On  the  return  of  the  ship   to  the   Sandwich   Islands  the  chiefs 
were  very  anxious  to  learn  where  she  had  heen,  and  to  be  informed 
whether  in  some  of  the  countries  she  had  visited,   the   produce  of 
their  dominions  might  not  find  a  favourable  market.      Kaliumana, 
in  particular,  was  so  much   interested  in   these   inquiries  that  she 
condescended  to  direct  her  attention  to  them,  and  laid  aside  a  mis- 
sionary book  with  which  she  had  been  instructing  her  mind  Avhile  i 
the  back  part  of  her  body  was  undergoing  the  soothing  operation  of  I 
being  pinched  by  one  of  her  female  attendants.     The  conversation  f 
happening  to  turn  upon  Bird  Island,  Boki,  on   hearing  it  was  so 
near  to  the  Sandwich  group,  meditated  its  addition   to  the  domiii-j 
ions  of  the  king,  no  doubt  under  the  impression  of  its  being  similarj 
to  one  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  was  greatly  disappointed  when [ 
informed  that  the  island  was  not  worth  his  possession.     The  account! 
of  the  high  price  of  sugar  in  California  quite  put  him  in  good  hu- 
mour with  his  sugar-mills,  which  for  some  time  past  had  been  a  sub- 
ject of  annoyance  to  him,  in  consequence  of  the  expense  incurredj 
by  their  continually  breaking.     All  parties  were  evidently  desiiousi 
to  extend  their  com.merce,  and  a  spirit  of  enterprise  appeared  tol 
have  diffused  itself  amongst  them,  which  it  is  to  be  hoped  nwl 
continue. 

During  our  absence  two  important  political  events  had  occurredl 
— the  negociation  of  a  treaty  of  alliance   between  Captain  JoncsJ 
of  the  United  States'  sloop  Peacock,  on  the  part  of  America, 
Boki,  the  regent,  on  the  part  of  the  Sandwich  Islands ;    by  whicli 
the  reception  of  the  American  vessels  in  the  Sandwich  Islands,  onj 
the  footing  of  the  most  favoured  ration,  was  guaranteed  to  Am 
in  the  event  of  that  nation  being  involved  in  hostilities  with  anjl 
other  power.     The  other  was  the  resignation  of  Pitt,  who,  being 


^i$«fc^:5«i^>.  _  ^: 


[Feb. 


1827.] 


AND  BKERINo's  STUAIT. 


361 


natc — Mcdlcii.al  Pro- 
a — Ijaclvonc  and  B;i- 
irture — Botcl  Tobago 


slands  the  chiefs 
,nd  to  be  informed 
the  produce  of 
ket.      Kahumana, 
inquiries  that  slie 
i  laid  aside  a  mis- 
y  her  rnir^d  while 
iothing  operation  of 
The  conversation 
hearing  it  was  so 
ion  to  the  doram- 
of  its  being  similar 
disappointed  when 
fion.     The  accountj 
t  him  in  good  hii- 
ast  had  been  a  sub- 
expense  incurred 
evidently  desirousi 
:prise  appeared  to 
to  be  hoped  may 


lents  had  occurredj 
jn  Captain  JonesI 

;  of  America,  and| 
islands;   by  wh'cli 

idwich  Islands,  on 
[ranteed  to  Am 
lostilities  with  an| 

If  Pitt,  who,  beni^ 


aware  of  his  approaching  dissolution,  retired  to  Owyhee,  and  left 
his  brother  Boki  to  act  as  regent.  Boki,  who  it  may  remembered, 
accompanied  tlie  late  king  Rio-Rio  to  England  appears  to  have 
Jerived  much  benefit  from  that  visit,  and  on  his  return  to  the  Sand- 
wich Islands  to  have  beconio  very  desirous  of  improving  the  con- 
dition of  his  countrymen.  He  was,  however,  a  less  active  govern- 
or than  Pitt,  and  less  capable  of  effecting  those  changes  which  ex- 
perience had  nevertheless  convinced  him  were  necessary  for  their 
advancement. 

The  town  of  Honoruru  had  now  a  more  cleanly  and  lively  ap- 
pearance than  on  our  Ibrmer  visit,  and  the  streets,  occupied  by 
happy  little  children  who  had  resumed  their  games,  wore  a  more 
cheerful  aspect.  There  was  an  improvement  also  in  the  society 
of  the  place,  arising  apparently  from  the  arrival  of  some  Europe- 
ans, particularly  of  the  consul's  family,  which  was  of  very  great 
advantage  to  the  females  of  Woahoo,  who  seemed  anxious  to  imi- 
tate their  manners,  and  were  so  desirous  of  becoming  acquainted 
nith  the  method  of  arranging  their  different  articles  of  dress,  that 
it  required  an  unusual  share  of  good  nature  to  avoid  taking  offence 
at  the  rude  manner  in  which  they  gratified  their  curiosity.  I  he  fe- 
I  niales  of  Woahoo  are  shrewd  observers  of  these  matters,  and  on 
great  occasions  endeavour  to  imitate  foreigners  as  nearly  as  they 
lean;  but  the  powerful  influence  of  fashion  has  not  been  yet  able 
entirely  to  get  the  better  of  that  other  powerful  principle,  early 
habit,  and  the  women  of  the  Sandwich  Islands  in  retirement  still 
adhere  to  their  old  customs,  affording  as  curious  an  instance  as 
I  was  ever  beheld  of  barbarism  walking  hand  in  hand  with  civili- 
liation. 

The  lower  class  of  the  inhabitants  of  Woahoo  have  varied  their 

Ijress  very  little  from  its  original  style  ;  thou2;h  in  Honoruru  some 

liemales  may  be  seen  clothed  in  the  cotton  of  Europe,  and  even  in 

he  silks  of  China,  with  green  and  red  shoes,  and  sometimes  with 

[parasols.     They  obtain  these  articles  as  presents  from  the  crews  of 

such  ships  as  touch  at  the  port.     In  every  uncivilized  country  which 

1  as  much  foreign  intercourse  as  Woahoo,  incongruities  must  be 
lof  frequent  occurrence  ;  thus  we  were  daily  in  the  habit  of   seeing 

dies  disencumber  themselves  of  their  silks,  slippers,  and  parasols, 
|and  swim  off  in  fine  style  to  different  vessels,  carrying  their  bpndles 

1  their  heads,  and  resuming  their  finery  when  thej  got  on  board. 
|\or  was  it  less  amusing  to  observe  them  jump  overboard  soon  after 
Idaylight,  and  continue  sporting  and  swimming  about  the  vessels  in 
llhe  harbour  like  so  many  nercids  ;  practices  to  which  they  adhere 
IRith  as  much  fondness  as  ever.  Many,  however,  now  think  it  nc- 
[ce?sary  to  put  on  a  bathing  gown  when  they  take  this  recreation. 

46 


362 


VOYAGE  TO    THE    PACII  IC 


[Feb. 


v^i 


! 

7)  ' 


am 


'^.i^' 

"r^ 


^■ 


Tlie  men  make  very  tolerable  seamen,  and  are  particularly  use- 
ful in  boats.  Accustomed  from  their  infancy  to  the  water,  they 
are  as  much  at  home  in  that  clement  as  on  land  ;  and  having  fee- 
quontly  encountered  gales  of  wind  at  sea  in  their  open  canoes, 
they  have  no  apprehension  of  them  on  board  a  strongly  built  ship 
They  are  active  and  honest,  and  many  of  them  are  taken  on  board 
merchant  ships  visiting  the  islands,  as  part  of  their  crews. 

In  the  course  of  time  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  they  will  become 
sufficiently  enlightened  to  navigate  their  own  vessels,  as  tlioy  at 
present  depend  upon  foreigners  for  the  performance  of  that  service, 
Their  vessels  are  now  generally  chartered  to  Americans,  who  bear 
a  certain  proportion  of  the  expenses  of  the  voyage,  and  have  carle 
blanche  to  proceed  where  thp.y  please,  and  to  collect,  sell,  and  pur- 
chase  cargoes  at  their  discretion,  and  as  it  may  seem  most  advim- 
tageous  for  themselves  and  the  owners,  who  divide  the  profits  of  the 
venture  at  the  end  of  the  voyage.  Their  occupation  consists  pijn- 
cipally  in  trading  with  California  and  the  islands  of  the  Pacific,  or 
in  making  sealing  voyages ;  in  which  case  the  skins  they  obtain  are 
carried  to  some  foreign  market,  and  the  proceeds  applied  to  the 
purchase  of  a  new  cargo  adapted  to  the  wants  of  the  Sandwich  Is- 
landers ;  such  as  horses,  or  furniture,  and  other  household  materi- 
als. Upon  the  whole,  these  returns  are  said  to  be  by  no  means 
equal  to  the  risk  and  expenses  of  the  voyage  ;  and  the  ships,  bein^  I 
built  of  slight  materials,  require  constant  repair,  and  soon  wear 
out :  so  that  their  navy,  at  present,  is  of  no  great  advantage  to  the 
state. 

No  duties  have  as  yet  been  imposed  on  any  goods,  either  ir,  por- 
ted  or  exported,  and  the  only  charges  made  by  the  government  arel 
the  port  dues,  which  are  very  prudently  lighter  on  vessels  touch-f 
ingatthe  islands   for  refreshments  only,  than  upon  those  which 
bring  cargoes  of  merchandize  :  the  charge  in  the  former  case  is  six, 
and  in  the  latter  fifty  cents  per  ton   for  the  outer  anchorage,  audi 
ten  and  sixty  cents  per  ton  resnectively  for  tJie  inner  anchorage. 

The  Sandwich  Islanders  will  apparently  make  as  good  soldiers  asl 
they  do  sailors,  and  are  so  proud  of  the  honour  of  being  embodied 
in  the  corps  of  the  state,  that  they  cannot  suffer  a  greater  dNgracel 
than  to  have  the  regimentals  taken  from  them  and  to  be  turned  oii{ 
of  the  ranks.     They  were  repatedly  drilled  by  our  serjeant  of  marJ 
ines,  and  though  under  the  disadvantage  of  not  understanding  thej 
language  in  which  the  word  of  command  was  given,  they  improvcJ 
quite  as  much  as  men  in  general  would  have  done  who  had  becJ 
in  the  habit  of  seeing  the  exercise  performed.     The  inhabitants  apj 
pear  disposed  to  learn  any  thing  that  does  not  require  labour,  and 
soldiering  soon  became  so  completely  a  mania,  that  the  king  had 
the  choice  of  his  subjects  ;  and  little  boys  were  seen   in  all  partj 


<l»»«*rtt«r«t-^  r-. -n.- J 


Tl 


mi 


^  i ,.,. 


[Feb, 

irticularly  use- 
ic  watev,  tlicy 
ncl  having  fie- 
•  open  canoes, 
ngly  built  ship. 

taken  on  board 
crews. 

3y  will  become 
sels,  as  tbey  at 
2  of  that  service. 
•leans,  who  bear 
!,  and  have  carle 
ict,  sell,  and  pur- 
em  most  advan- 

tbc  profits  of  the 
Lion  consists  prin- 
f  the   Pacific,  or 
IS  tbey  obtain  are 
s  applied  to  the 
the  Sandwich  h- 
lousebokl  materi- 
be  by  no  means 
id  tbe  ships,  beinj 
ir,  and   soon  wear  I 
I  advantage  to  the  | 

3ods,  either  inpor- 
le  government  are 
on  vessels  touch- 
)on  those  which! 
former  case  is  six, 
r  anchorage,  and] 
incr  anchorage, 
as  good  soldiemsl 
»f  being  embodied 
a  greater  d-^gracel 
d  to  be  turned  ouff 
ur  Serjeant  of  matJ 
understanding  tha 
en,  they  improved 
le  who   bad  becd 
The  inhabitants  apj 
i3quire  labour,  m 
That  the  king  had 
Isecn  in  all  parq 


1827.J 


AND    UEEIUNG  S    STHAIT. 


3G3 


of  tiic  town  icssing  up  a  sugar  cane,  with  a  "  shoulder  unip  !"  and 
ionie  of  the  troop,  even  after  being  dismissed,  would  rehearse  the 
lesso'1  of  the  day  by  themsclvos.  The  islanders  have  a  good  idea 
of  a  ling  in  concert,  derived  from  their  early  exercise  of  the  j;rt/«/M, 
50  interestingly  described  by  Vancouver,  in  which  they  were  ac- 
customed to  form  solid  s(juares  ;  and  when  engaged,  presented  a  for- 
midable phalanx,  which  it  was  not  easy  to  force. 

Among  other  services  which  we  performed  for  the  king  was  an 
inspection  of  his  cannon  in  the  forts,  some  of  which  were  so  cor- 
roded, that  in  all  probability  their  discharge  would  have  been  pro- 
ductive of  serious  accidents  to  some  of  his  subjects.  We  also 
furnished  him  with  twenty  tons  of  stones,  which  we  had  taken  in 
at  Chamisso  Island  as  ballast,  to  be  used  in  rebuilding  the  wall  of 
his  mud  fort. 

It  is  unnecessary  to  describe  further  the  inhabitants  of  a  country 
which  has  already  been  the  subject  of  several  volumes.  Enough 
lias  been  said  to  show  that  the  people  are  fast  imbiding  foreign 
customs,  and  daily  improving  both  in  their  manners  and  dress. 

The  harbour  of  Honoruru  is  the  general  rendezvous  of  all  the 
whale  ships  employed  in  the  North  Pacific  Ocean.  In  the  opring 
lime  these  vessels  assemble  here  to  the  number  of  forty  or  fifty  sail 
at  a  time,  and  take  on  board  large  supplies  of  vegetables  and  fruit, 
as  sea  stock,  to  enable  them  to  remain  upon  their  fishing  ground 
until  the  autumn,  when  many  of  them  return  to  the  port.  The 
fresh  provision  which  they  jirocure  at  these  islands  is  of  the  great- 
t«t  advantage  to  the  crews  of  the  whalers,  who  would  otherwise  be 
afflicted  with  scurvy ;  and  the  goods  which  they  give  in  exchange 
ire  very  acceptable  to  the  inhabitants.  A  number  of  idle  dissolute 
ieamen  however,  discontented  with  their  ships,  generally  remain 
yiind,  and  live  in  the  public  houses  until  their  money  and  clothes 
are  expended,  or  attach  themselves  to  females,  and  in  either  way 
lierome  dependent  upon  the  inhabitants  for  food.  These  characters 
ilo  infinite  mischief  to  the  lower  order  of  the  natives,  by  encourag- 
iiis;  thein  in  intemperance,  debauchery,  idleness  and  all  kinds  of 
vice  ;  nearly  sufficient  of  themselves  to  counteract  all  the  labours 
|of  the  missionaries  in  the  diflusion  of  morality  and  religion. 

The  harbour  is  formed  by  a  coral  reef,  which  extends  along  the 
Icoast  from  the  Pearl  River  to  Wytiete  Bay,  but  connected  with  the 
I  shore  at  intervals,  so  as  to  impede  the  passage  of  vessels.  The 
lentrance  is   very  narrow  and  intricate,  and  vessels  are  generally 

3wed  in  early  in  tbe  morning,  before  the  breeze  freshens.     There 

•  a  rock  nearly  mid-channel  upon  which  the  ser  generally  breaks. 
iSomctimes  indeed  it  breaks  quite  across  the  entrance,  und  renders 
111  necessary  at  that  time,  in  particular,  to  employ  a  pilo  .     The  depth 

I  the  channel  at  high  water  is  about  eighteen  feet  ;   but  as  I  did 


1    -      '■■  y 

4^1  ^ 


Uj  a 


:-^/  \i 


I'-*'! 


■m 


^■m 


U«iJ 


364 


VOYAOK    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[Fth. 


■  X 


X 


not  make  a  plan  of  this  port,  in  consequence  of  Lieutenant  Mai- 
den of  the  Blonde  liaving  so  recently  executed  all  that  was  neces- 
sary in  that  respect,  I  cannot  speak  positively.  In  sailing;  alon:; 
the  reefs  in  hoats  it  is  necessary  to  keep  at  a  considerable  distimco 
on  account  of  the  sudden  rise  of  the  sea,  which  is  very  apt  to  fill 
or  upset  them  when  it  breaks ;  and  boats  should  not  at  any  time 
pull  for  the  entrance  until  the  have  gained  a  proper  station  olF  it. 

The  climate  of  the  Sandwich  Islands  is  more  refreshing  than 
that  of  Otaheite  ;  although  the  group  is  scarcely  farther  from  the 
equator.  I  am  not  aware  that  any  register  has  been  kept  for  a 
whole  year  at  Otaheite  ;  but  at  VVoahoo  this  has  been  done  by  the 
gentlemen  attached  to  the  missions,  from  which  it  appears  that  the 
mean  temperature  for  1821  was  75°,  the  maximum  88°,  and  the 
minimum  59°,  and  that  the  daily  range  on  an  average  was  about 
13°.  In  the  last  fortnight  of  May  18-26,  we  found  the  niaxinuini 
83°,  and  minimum  74°;  and  in  the  last  fortnight  of  Februrary  18-.i7, 
maximum  80,  and  minimum  58°. 

The  N.  E.  trade  wind,  in  general,  blows  strong  to  the  windward 
of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  though  for  many  miles  to  leeward  of  tiieni 
frequent  calms  and   light  baffling  winds  prevail,  and  impede  the 
navigation  between  the  islands.      About  the  period  of  the  rainy 
season  these  winds  are  interrupted  by  gales  from  north-west  to  south- 
west, but  when  they  cease  the  trade  resumes  its  usual  course.    The 
duration  of  this  season  at  Woahoo  is  from  February  to   IMay.     In 
1826  it  was  over  on  the  19th  of  May  ;  and  in   1827,  it  began  on! 
the  17th  of  February.     At  this  period  the  rains  are  occasionally 
very  heavy  ;  in  1826  and  1830,  I  have  been  informed  they  werej 
particularly  so  ;  at  other  times,  however,  the  reverse  takes  place, 
and  from  August  1821,  to  the  same  month  of   the  following  year,! 
it  appears  by  the  register  of  the  missionaries   that  there  were  but! 
forty  days  on  which  rain  fell. 

The  windward  sides  of  the  islands  are  said  to  be  much  colder, 
and  to  be  subject  to  more  rain  than  those  to  leeward.      They  are  I 
also  liable  to  fogs  in  the  spring  of  the  year,  while  those  which  are 
opposite  are  enjoying  sunshine.     The  mountains,  from  their  height, 
act  upon  the  atmosphere  as  powerful  condensers,  and  in  parlicularj 
times  of  the  year  are  scarcely  ever  free  from  mists ;  these  are  oc- 
casionally detached  by  gusts  of  wind  and  carried  over  the  parts  ofl 
the  island,  and  it  is  not  unusual  in  Honoruru  to  experience  a  prettyl 
sharp  sprinkling  of  rain  without  perceiving  any  cloud  from  whencej 
it  proceeds. 

Water-spouts  not  unfrequently  visit  these  islands,  one  of  wli 
I  was  told  burst  over  the  harbour  of  Honoruru,  discharging  such  al 
quantity  of  water  that  the  sea  rose  three  feet.  I  have  repeatcdlyf 
seen  this  phenomenon  on  a  small  scale  carrying  a  cohnnn  of  dii.^I 


''•''''^msmfSfSr^ssz 


^..    '^■ 


II 


/leutcnant  Mal- 
thiit  was  noccs- 
lii  sailing  alon;; 
lerablo   ilistuuce 
very  apt  to  fill 
lot  at  any  time 
r  station  olF  it. 
refreshing  than 
Itirther  from  the 
been  kept  for  a 
)een  done  by  the 
appears  that  the 
um  88°,  and  the 
erage  was  about 
id  the  maxinuim 


I8'27.] 


AND    UEEniNO  S    bTllAlT. 


ao 


HJ 


along  the  plains  near  Honorurii,  and  wiraling  hats  into  the  air  ; 
and  1  once  saw  a  native  boy  greatly  puzzled  to  escape  from  its  in- 
tliience. 

I  shall  conclude  these  remarks  with  some  observations  on  tho 
use  and  effects  of  the  ava,  a  root  which  was  formerly  in  much  use 
ill  the  Pacific,  taken  from  the  Journal  of  the  surgeon  of  the  Bloss- 
om. The  intoxicating  property  of  the  ava  root,  tho  cutaneous 
eruption  which  succeeds  its  use,  and  the  renovating  ertect  it  has 
upon  the  constitution,  have  been  noticed  ever  since  the  dis- 
covery of  the  Society  Islands.  Mr.  Collie  observes,  that — "a 
course  of  it  is  most  beneficial  in  renovciting  constitutions  which 
have  been  worn  out  by  hard  living,  long  residence  in  warm  climates, 
ffithout,  however,  affections  of  the  liver,  and  by  protracted  chronic 
diseases ;  more  especially  if  the  disorder  be  such  as  by  the  humoral 
patliologists  would  be  attributed  to  an  attenuated  or  acrid  state  of 
fFebrurary  18'27,  H  ilie  blood."     He  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  "a  gentleman,   a 


'  to  the  windward 
,0  leeward  of  ihem 
,  and  impede  the 
■riod  of  the  rainy 
orth-west  to  south- 
isual  course.    The 
lary  to  May.     In 
1827,  it  began  on, 
s  are  occasionally 
brmed  they  were  I 
/erse   takes  place, 
le  following  year,! 
It  there  were  but 

be  much  colder,! 
ward.      They  are 
e  those  which  are! 
,  from  their  heiditj 
,  and  in  particularl 
3ts;  these  are  oc- 
over  the  parts  of  I 
jxperience  a  pretty! 
[loud  from  whence| 

|ids,  one  of  wl 

lischarging  such  aj 

have   repeatedly] 

li  column  oi'  <1"'M 


foreigner,  who  had  undergone  a  course  of  it  to  remove  a  cutaneous 
alfcclion  said  to  have  been  similar  to  St.   Anthony's  fire.      It   had 
affected  at  different  times  almost  every  part  of   the   body,   going 
from  one  place  to  another,  but  had  been   particularly  obstinate  in 
lone  leg.     He  took  two  dcses  a  day  of  half  a  pint  each,  one  before 
breakfast  and  one  before  dinner,  by  which  his  appetite   was  sharp- 
ened ;  and  by  the  time  he  had  finished   his  meal   a  most  pleasing 
hiate  of  half  intoxication  had  come  on,  so  that  he  was   just  able 
logo  to  h's  couch,  where  he  enjoyed  a  sound  and  refreshing  sleep. 
•  About  the  second  or  third  week,  the  eyes  became  suffused  with 
lilood,  and  the  cuticle  around  them  began  to  scale,  when  the  whole 
liiirface  of   the   body  assumed   the   appearance   above    described. 
iTlie  first  dose  is  continued  for  a  week  or  so,  according  to  the  dis- 
Icase,  and  then  gradually  left  off.     The  skin  clears  at  the  same  time, 
Isnd  the  whole  system  is  highly  benefited. 

I  recommended  the  ava,  and  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the 
ISrst  effects  upon  a  man  affected  with  chronic  superficial  ulceration, 
hiiecting  the  greater  part  of  the  toes,  and  the  anterior  part  of  tho 
soles  of  the  feet.     The  legs  and  feet  were  ffidematous  and  swelled  ; 
the  pain  was  very  distressing,  preventing  any  sound  repose,  and  not 
I  permitting  him  even  to  lie  down  or  bring  them  up,  so  as  to  be  near 
iline  horizontal  with  the  body.     The  ulcers  were  covered  with  a 
lough,  viscid,  dark-coloured  discharge  that  adhered  to  the   surface, 
land  entirely  concealed  it.     His  frame  w^as  emaciated,  pulse   quick 
land  irritable,  appetite  gone,  tongue  dry  and  reddish  ;  he  had  taken 
I  mercurial  preparations  at  two  previous  periods,  as  he  said,  with  con- 
siderable benefit ;  but  for  want  of   the  medicines  it  was  stopped, 
livhen  the  sores  were  nearly  healed.     He  had  been,  and  I  believe 


rv  ¥ 


'i'l 


yco 


V0YA(5K    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[t\o. 


lis 


<'; 


Still  was,  luU'icled  to  chinking  spirituous  li(juors.  Tlio  uvii  wa^j 
given  throe  times  a  ihiy  with  the  same  iuuiUMhate  cfieets  us  hcfoio 
mentioned,  and  at  the  end  of  ten  days  tiio  ulcers  were  clean  and 
healing.  From  the  commencement  of  the  course  he  had  hecii  ubio 
to  lie  down,  allowing  his  feet  to  hang  over  the  bed-side  :  he  )i;|,| 
slept  soundly,  and  his  appetite  was  good.  Could  he  have  i)rociirt>(i 
and  applied  u  suitable  dressing  for  the  ulcers,  with  appropriate  sup- 
port  to  the  oudematous  extremities,  1  have  no  hesitation  in  .sii\ii)(r 
that  the  plan  would  have  succeeded.  Even  with  all  these  disad. 
vantages,  I  am  inclined  to  believe  that  a  cure  will  be  cflectcd  if  lie 
abstains  from  liquor." 

In  this  account  of  the  Sandwich  Islands,  I  have  avoided  touch- 
ing  upon  subjects  connected    with  the    mythology,  traditions,  and 
early  manners  and  customs  of  the  islanders,  from  a  conviction  that  I 
1  could  give  but  an  imperfect  sketch  of  them,  and  from  a  hope  that 
they  will  hereafter  be  laid  before  the  public  by  the  author  of  Pol- 1 
ynesian  llescarches,  who  from  his  intimate   knowledge  of  the  Ian- 
guage,  his  long  residence  in  the  Pacific,   and  from  the  nature  of  hisi 
occu])ations,  has  greater  opportunities  of  becoming  acquainted  uiihj 
them  than  any  other  foreigner.     My  endeavour  has  been  to  give  asl 
faithful  an  account  as  I  could  of  the  government,  and  of  the  state  of! 
society  in  the  islands  at  the  time  of  our  visit,   and  of  the  resouicesl 
and  commerce  of  the  country.     Had  my  occupations  been  less  mi- 
mere  IS,  1  might  have  done  more  justice  to  these   subjects  ;  but  diel 
detorinination  of  the  position    of  the  place,   and    attentior;  .■    iiierf 
observations,  occupied  my  time  so  completely,  that  T  had  veryjittlal 
leisure  for  other  pursuits. 

During  the  absence  of  the  ship  from  the   Sandwich  Islands,  Caj)] 
lain  Charlton,  the  consul,  had  succeeded   in  procuring  a  supply  i 
.salt  provision  for  her.     This    was  the  more  opportune,  as  the  mei 
which  had  been  corned  in    California  was    found   on  exaniiatioii  tJ 
be  so  bad  that  it  was  necessary  to  throw  the  whole  of  it  overboardl 
We  at  first  imaL:;ined  that  this  failure  proceeded  from  our  ignoranq 
of  the  method  of  curing  the  meat,  but  that  which  had  been  jjrcparel 
at  Monterey  ;  by  a  person  brought  up  to  the  business,  was  found  I 
be  equally   bad  :  and  the  failure,  in  all  probability,  arose  from  thi 
heated  and  feverish  state  in  which   the  animals    were  slaughtered 
We    frequently  remonstrated   with  the  governor  of  San   Fraucisoj 
against  being  obliged  to  kill  the  animals  in  this  state,  and  begged! 
would  have  them  penned  up  until  the    following  day,  as  they  \ve^ 
quite  wild,  and  had  been  harassed  with  lassos,  and  dragged  many  i 
by  tame  bullocks.     We  did  not  however,  succeed,  and  if  the  animal 
werenotslaughteredas  they  were  delivered  into  our  charge  llieyc 
ther  made  their  escape,  or,  as  was  the  case  with  several,  broke  (hd 


mr- 


The  uva  was 
fleets  us  1)0 fore 
were  eleuu  and 
he  luul  been  ahlo 
d-sUlo  :  he  had 
ic  have  procured 
appropriate  sup- 
italion  in  sa^ini^ 

all  these  disad- 
be  eftccted  if  he 

/e  avoided  touch- 
ry,  traditions,  and  i 

a  conviction  that  I 
1  from  a  hope  that  I 
le  author  of  Pol- 
wlcdge  of  the  lau- 1 
1  the  nature  of  his  I 
.!"•  ac(iuaintc(l  with  I 
has  been  to  give  as! 

and  of  the  state  o(l 
nd  of  the  resourcesl 
Ltions  been  less  nu-l 
i  subjects;  buttliej 
attention  :■  iMciT 
liat  I  bad  very ' 

[iwicli  Islands,  Cap 
•ocuring  a  supply 
l)ortunc,asthemei 
|d   on  cxamiation  ti 
lolc  of  it  overboard! 
from  our  ignoranci 
had  been  prepare! 
.iness,  was  found' 
[Uty,  arose  fromthi 
were  slaughierei" 
,rofSan  Francisi 
|tate,  and  begged 
;  dny,  as  they  wei 
dragged  many  mil* 
.,andifthennimr 

I  our  charge  llii;}'' 
several,  broke  th( 


01.] 


AND    BGERINO  S    STIIAIT. 


367 


necks  in  tlicir  struggles  for  freedom.  The  prc£;'::!nt  supply  of  provi- 
,joii  was  consequently  of  the  greatest  importance.  In  addition  to 
iliis  wc  procured  a  few  other  stores,  but  not  sudicieiu  for  the  i)m'- 
posp,  and  there  were  no  medicines  to  be  had,  so  that  it  was  still 
necessary  to  proceed  to  Ciiina. 

As  soon  as  the  ship  was  ready  for  sea,  therefore,  we  cndoavour- 
,(lto  sail,  but  the  wind  about  this  time  blew  from  the  south-west, 
ind  kept  us  imprisoned  a  fortnight  ;  the  harbour  of  Honoruru  being 
jO  difllcult  of  egress,  that  unless  the  wind  be  fair,  or  there  be  a  per- 
fect calm,  a  vessel  cannot  proceed  to  sea.  On  the  4th  of  March, 
kowever,  we  tcok  our  leave  of  the  authorities  and  residents  of  the 
place,  from  botu  of  whom  we  had  received  the  greatest  attention, 
ind  put  to  sea  on  our  way  to  Macao. 

Upon  leaving  the  Sandwich    Islands  I  directed  the  course  to  the 
[ioiithward:  and  next  day,  having  gained  the  latitude  of  18°  'i"2'  N., 
istood  to  the   Westward,  with  the  intention  of  pursuing  the  above- 
jsientioni  d  parallel  as  far  as  the  Ladrone    Islands.     I  did  this  with 
iview  of  keeping  fairly  within  the  limit  of  the  trade  wind,  which,  at 
ie season  of  the  year  in  which  this  p.o-  ijtc  was  made,  is  frequent- 
ly variable  in  a  higher  latitude,    and  evon  subject    to  interruptions 
joni  strong  north-westerly  winds.     I  w  is  also  desirous  of  ascertain  • 
k  die  position  of  an  island  bearit   ;  the  name    of  Wake's  Island, 
Lpon  Arrowsmith's  chart  situated  .'.iioctly  in  the-  route  between  the 
pndwich  Islands  and  China. 
A  fresh  trade  wind  attended  us  until  the  tifth  day  after  our  depar- 
are,  when    it  was    interrujited    by  a  brneze   from  the   southward. 
JTlie  serenity  of  the  sky  which  accompanied  the  trade,  now  became 
kijcured  by  heavy  thunder  clouds,  which  gathered  aioimd  us  until 
lie  night  of  the    Gth,   when  they  completely    blackened    the  sky. 
fe  had  lightning  frequently  during  the  day,    whlcii    increased    so 
iiuch  towards  night,  that  from  eight  o'clock  to  day  light  the  folow- 
morning,  the  sky  presented  an  uninterupted  blaze    of  light.     It 
►as  unusually  near  ,  the  forked  lightning  passed  between  the  masts 
jevcral  times,  and  the  zenith  occasionally  presented  a  fiery  mass  of 
liiort  curved  lines,  which  shot  off  in  different  directions  like  as  ma- 
Iv  arrows;  while  the  heavy    peals  of  thunder  wb.ich  generally  ac- 
tompany  these  storms  were  subdued   by  crackling  discharges    not 
mlike  the  report  of  musketry  from  a  long  line  of  infantry.     About 
le  commencement  oi  this  storm  the  temperature  fell  four  degrees, 
Btgradually  rose  again  to  its  former  height.     The  sympeisometcr 
pnot  sensibly  affected. 

[On  the  following  day  fine    weather  was  restored,  the  trade  took 

i  proper  direction  ;  and  the  sea,  which   had  been  much   agitated 

IV  the  changeable  winds,  abated,  and  we  pursued  a  steady  course. 

pout  four  days  afterwards  a  brilliant  meteor  was  discharged  from 


im 


i  ^\ 


»j,- 


-  ^ 


368 


VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[Feb. 


the  zenith  towards  the  north-west,  in  the  direction  of  some  heavy 
clouds  (nuiibi),  which  were  pouring  down  torrents  of  rain.  It  pre- 
sented a  long  bright  liquid  flame  of  a  bluish  cast,  and  was  followed 
by  a  train  of  sparks,  until  it  had  reached  within  15°  of  the  horizon, 
when  it  exploded,  and  three  distinct  fragments,  having  the  appear- 
ance of  being  red  hot,  were  discharged.  They  gradually  lost  their 
brilliancy  as  they  fell,  and  were  quite  extinguished  before  lliey 
came  in  contact  with  the  water.  With  the  exception  of  the  nimbi 
in  the  north  west,  the  sky  was  perfectly  clear,  particularly  at 
the  zenith,  whence  the  meteor  appeared  first  to  be  discharged. 
After  these  meteorological  disturbances  we  had  fine  weather  almost 
all  the  remainder  of  the  passage. 

At  two  o'clock  on  the  15th  we  were  within  a  few  leagues  of  the 
situation  of  Wake's  Island,  and  the  ship  was  brought  to  until  day- 
light; but  seeing  no  land  at  that  time  we  bore  away  again,  and  at 
noon  were  exactly  on  the  spot  where  the  island  is  placed  in  Arrow- 
smith's  chart.  A  few  tern  and  a  gannet  were  seen  about  ei^lit 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  but  we  had  no  other  indications  of  land; 
still  in  the  expectation  of  falling  in  with  it,  we  continued  the  course 
due  west,  and  ran  throughout  the  night,  which  was  clear  and  fine, 
but  without  being  more  successful.  I  afterwards  learned  that  the  I 
master  of  an  American  trader  landed  upon  a  coriil  island,  nearly  in 
the  same  longitude,  in  the  latitude  19°  18'  N.  which  is  about  twen- 
ty-three miles  to  the  northward  of  the  island  in  Arrowsmith's  chart  j 
and  in  all  probability  is  the  same  place. 

With  fine  weather  and  a  fair  wind  we  pursued  our  course,  with- 
out experiencing  any   inconvenience  except   that  occasioned  by  aj 
long  swell  from  the  northward,  which  made  the  ship  roll  heavily  al-f 
most  all  the  passage.     On  the  25th  we  saw  the  island  of  Assum|H 
tion,  and  the  next  day  passed  close  to  it,  in  order  to  determine  its  posi-l 
tion.     The    island   is  about   a  league   in  circumference,  and  riscsl 
from  the  sea  in  the  perfect  form  of  a  cune  to  the  height  of  2,0-26l 
feet.     Time  must  have  made  an  agreeable  alteration  in  the  appear-J 
ance  of  this  island  since  it  was  visited  by   La  Perouse.     Instead  oil 
a  cone  covered  with   lava   and  volcanic  glass,    and   presenting  M 
forbidding  aspect  he  describes,  we    traced  vegetation   nearly  to  thai 
summit,  and  observed   woods  of  palm-trees  skirting  its    base ;  parJ 
ticularly  in  the  south-west  side.     We  were  more  fortunate  than  ' 
Perouse  in  obtaining  a  view  of  the  crater  formed  at  the  apex  of  thJ 
cone  ;  it  appeared  very    small  and  perfect,  and  to  emit  no  smnkej 
La  Perouse,  in  sailing  to  leeward  of  this   island,    experienced 
strong   sulphorous  odour.       There  was   none,  however,  when  uJ 
visited  the  spot ;  but  it  is  very  probable  that  the  volcano  may  ^lavJ 
been  in   action  when  he   passed,  which  miglit  also  account  for  thj 
desolation  of  which  he  speaks. 


1827.] 


AND    BERRINO  S  STRAIT. 


369 


1  of  some  heavy 
of  rain.     It  pie- 
,nd  was  followed 
°  of  the  horizon, 
ving  the  appear- 
idually  lost  their 
shed  before  they 
ition  of  the  nimbi 
,   particularly  at 
to  be  discharged. 
le  weather  almost 

few  leagues  of  the 
ught  to  until  di\y- 
iway  again,  and  at 

placed  in  Arrow- 
5  seen  about  ei5hl 
indications  of  land ; 
antinued  the  course 
was  clear  and  fine, 
s  learned   that  the 
■al  island,  nearly  in  j 
vhich  is  about  twen- 

Arrowsmith's  chart  j 

jd  our  course,  with- 
hat  occasioned  by  a 
hip  roll  heavily  al- 
e  island  of  Assunip- 
to  determine  its  posi- 
inference,  and  rises] 
he  height  of  2,0i>i)| 
ration  in  the  appear- 
•erouse.     Instead  ol 
and   presenting  thf 
tation   nearly  to  tk 
rting  its   base ;  paf 
re  fortunate  than  b 
d  at  the  apexofthj 
d  to  emit  no  smoke 
nd,   experienced 
however,  when  wi 
le  volcano  may  ''3V' 
also  account  fov  i^* 


There  appeared  to  be  no  danger  near  this  Island,  but  on  the  con- 
trary, judging  from  the  deep  blue  colour  of  the  sea,  there  was  deep 
water  close  to  the  base  of  the  island.  The  south-west  side  is  the 
least  abrupt,  but  even  in  that  direction  La  Perouse  informs  us  ships 
are  obliged  to  come  very  close  to  the  shore  before  they  can  find  an-s- 
chorage,  and  then  only  with  a  very  long  scope  of  cable.  This 
bank  is  formed  of  lava  and  scoria;,  and,  being  on  the  leeward  side 
of  the  island,  has  probably  been  raised  by  frequent  eruptions  of  the 
volcano.  There  were  no  projections  in  any  part  of  the  island,  that 
we  could  perceive,  sufficient  to  afford  protection  to  a  boat  attempt- 
ing to  land,  and  the  sea  in  consequence  broke  heavily  against  it  in 
every  direction. 

The  day  being  clear,  wc  looked  to  the  southward  for  the  island 
of  Agrigan,  which  on   Arrowsmith's  chart  is   placed  within  twelve 
miles  of  the  Mangs,  but  no  land   could  be  discerned  in   that  direc- 
tion, and  from  the  state  of  the  weather,  I   should  think  there  could 
not  have  been  any  within  at  least   twelve  leagues  distance  of  us. 
Tliis  would   make  the  channel  between  Assumption  and  Agrigan 
about  forty  miles   wide ;  the  Jesuits   extend  it  to  sixty  ;  but  this 
cannot  be  the  case,  as   it  would   place  Agrigan   near  the  latitude 
of  18o  45'  N.  in  which  parallel  Ybargottia,  according  to  Espinosa,  has 
placed  the  island  of  Pagon.     It  seems  necessary,  therefore,  to  con- 
tract the  channel  between   Assumption  and  Agrigan  as  marked  in 
the  Jesuits'  plan,  and  to  reduce  the  size  of  Agrigan  in  order  to  rec- 
loncile   the  position  of  the   islands.     Arrowsmith  has   incorrectly 
placed  the  Mangs   on  the  south  side  of  Assumption  :  by  our  astro- 
liioinical  bearings   they   are  situated  N.  27°  7'  30"  W.  (true)  from 
jiie  south  east  end  of  this  island,  and  are  in  Latitude  19°  57"  02'  N. 
iThey   consist    of  three  high  rocks,  lying  in  a  south-easterly  di- 
Itection.* 

From  what  I  saw  of  the  island  of  Assumption  it  appears  to  be  a 
Itery  proper  headland  for  ships  coming  from  the  eastward  and  bound 
Iio  Canton  to  steer  for.  It  is  high,  and  may  be  safely  approached 
linthe  night  if  the  weather  is  ilear ;  and  there  is  a  wide  channel  to 
Ithe  southward  of  it.  It  is  far  preferable  to  adopt  this  channel  than 
to  pass  to  the  northward  of  the  Mariana  group,  which  is  sometimes 
Idone :  as  I  am  credibly  informed  that  there  '^ JpuQ||^  J;;j;2-"1^^^^^^;^r 

[  *Itie  somewhat  remarkable  that  in  pasa;;;,'.^  .!„         ,,         ,    ,,,     ., 
i.mption,at  the  distance  of  four    Jief '5   "i^V^^-T'"''. '![•*''*' '"'^"'^  °^^«- 
fhid>  Captain  Frcycinct  has  oup^ '^t^ h^fho  ^    '  '"^  t'^  ,"°l  ^''^r^'  ^^^  '°^^^ 
p.  Our  latitude  \vhen  in  thc^  '    -l-        ,  .*""  Mang-s,  situated  in  latitude  19°  32' 

EcvS^nt  that  we  must  4te  prscd  wUy  .t^Hn  ^  T?^  '^°  ^l  ^-  ''^.  "''^^'^  '' 
Uitudcs  be  corr^,.',      -j„J^ tV  r  .u   •        .     ""'"^  °^  ^^^"^  '■oc'fS'  provided  both 

lave  stood  t.wh;=;  ,u  ^K"°*n°fthe.r  existence  at  the  time,  I  should  certainly 
imm^Ll^fih^M  '''^'u\°A^^'^.''  '•°»««ctthem  by  trian^ulation  with  "he 
l^^umpt.on  and  the  Mangrs ,  but  Captain  Freycincfs  discoveries  were  not  then  put 

47 


^     i 


I  \i 


370 


VOYAGE  TO    THE  PACIFIC 


[April, 


in  that  direction.     We  have  as  yet  no  good  chart  of  this  group  of 
islands. 

Under  the  lee  of  tlie  island  we  observed  a  great  many  birds,  prln- 
cipally  of  the  pelican  tribe,  of  which  there  was  a  species  supposed 
by  our  naturalists  to  be  new.  It  is  described  as  being  smaller  than 
the  frigate-bird,  and  of  a  dark  brown  colour,  with  the  exception  of 
the  belly  and  breast,  which  were  white,  and  the  bill,  which  was  ei- 
ther white  or  of  a  light  lead  colour. 

From  the  Ladrones,  I  directed  the  course  for  the  Bashee  Islands 
and  on  the  7th  of  April,  after  experiencing  light  and  variable  winds, 
got  sight  of  the  two  northern  islands  of  that  group.  The  long  nor- 
therly swell,  which  had  attended  us  almost  all  the  way  from  the 
Sandwich  Islands,  ceased  immediately  we  were  to  the  westward  of 
the  Ladrones ;  and  indeed  the  sea  between  them  and  the  Bashee 
Islands  was  so  smooth  that  its  heave  was  scarcely  perceptible.  We 
found  by  our  observations  that  the  magnetic  meridian  intersects  the 
channel  between  these  two  groups  of  islands  in  the  meridian  of  226° 
48'  W.  in  the  latitude  of  20°  12'  N. 

The  Bashee  Islands,  so  called  by  the  Buccaneers,  in  consequence 
of  a  drink  of  that  name,  which  was  extracted  by  the  natives  from  the 
sugar-cane,  form  a  long  group  very  similar  to  the  Ladrones,  and  ex- 
tend in  the  same  direction  nearly  from  north  to  south.  Until  these 
Islands  were  surveyed  by  Captain  Horsburg  their  positions  were  as 
incorrectly  determined  as  those  of  the  Ladrones  are  at  present.  A 
contrary  wind,  which  rendered  it  necessary  to  beat  through  the  chan- 
nel between  them  and  Botel  Tobago  Xima,  afforded  an  opportunity 
of  connecting  these  islands  trigonometrically,  and  of  obtaining  tran- 
sit bearings  when  in  immediate  stations  between  them.  The  longi- 
tude also  was  afterwards  measured  backwards  and  forwards  between 
them  and  Macao,  and  we  thus  had  an  opportunity  of  examining 
the  chart  of  Captain  Horsburg,  which  appeared  to  be  constructed 
with  great  truth  and  with  his  usual  accuracy. 

I  regret  not  having  seen  the  Cumbrian  x-eef ;  we  stood  purposely  i 
towards-  it  until  sun-set,  and  were  within  six  miles  of  its  situation  | 
when  we  were  obliged  to  go  about  by  the  approach  of  night. 

The  lext  day  we  stood  toward  the  island  of  Formosa,  and  tack- 
"*}  7*,h;n  four  miles  of  the  Vele  rete  rocks,  the  largest  of  which  ha»  | 
the  appearance  otiL  vessel  under  sail.  They  lie  off  the  south  encL 
of  the  island  of  Formosa,*  and-are  surrounded  by  breakers,  whitf 
in  thick  weather  could  not  be  approached  with  safety.  We  obserJ 
ved  strong  ripples  in  the  water  near  them  ;  but  the  wind  did  not  perl 
mit  us  to  enter  any  for  the  purpose  of  sounding  ;  late  in  the  evel 
ning,  however,  when  we  were  several  leagues  from  them,  the  weathj 

♦  The  large  rock  bears  S.  29"  09'  15"  E.  from  the  west  end  of  Lamay  Island. 


1827.] 


AND    BEGRINO  S    STRAIT. 


371 


of  Lamay  Island. 


er  being  nearly  calm  we  were  diawn  into  one  of  these  ripples  and 
continued  in  it  several  hours,  during  which  time  we  tried  for  soun- 
dings with  a  hundred  fathoms  of  line  without  success.  Upon  trial 
a  current  was  found  to  set  S.  E.  seven  furlongs  per  hour ;  this  ex- 
periment, however,  was  made  from  the  ship  by  mooring  a  buoy, 
and  was  probably  incorrect,  as  the  water  was  much  agitated  ;  and 
had  a  vessel  seen  it,  or  even  heard  it  in  the  night  time  (for  it  made  a 
considerable  noise),  she  would  have  taken  it  for  breakers  and  put 
about.  A  peculiar  smell  v/as  detected  in  the  atmosphere  while  we 
remained  unmanageable  in  this  local  disturbance  of  the  water, 
which  some  ascribed  to  sea  weed,  and  others  to  dead  fish,  but  it  was 
never  ascertained  whence  :t  arose.  Some  seamen  have  an  idea, 
though  it  is  not  very  general,  that  this  peculiar  odour  precedes  a 
change  of  weather,  and  sometimes  a  storm,  particularly  in  the  Med- 
iterranean. On  the  present  occasion  nothing  of  the  kind  occurred 
immediately,  though  about  twenty-six  hours  afterwards  when  cros- 
sing the  channel  between  Formosa  and  the  main  land,  the  temper- 
ature fell  sixteen  degrees  from  the  average  height  of  the  proceeding 
day,  and  the  wind  blew  strong  from  the  northward. 

Before  daylight  on  the  10th,  while  we  were  crossing  the  channel 
to  the  westward  of  Formosa,  going  at  the  rate  often  miles  an  hour, 
we  found  ourselves  surrounded  by  Chinese  fishing  boats,  and  narrow- 
ly escaped  running  over  several  of  them,  as  it  was  very  dark,  and 
they  were  so  thick  that  in  trying  to  escape  one  we  endangered  an- 
other, and  were  obliged  to  lie  to  until  daylight.  These  joats  are 
large  vessels,  and  would  endangei-  a  small  merchant  ship  wert  she  to 
run  foul  of  them.  We  were  informed  that  they  were  upon  their 
usual  fishing  ground,  and  vessels  therefore  in  approaching  the  spot 
should  be  cautious  how  they  proceed,  as  these  boats  carry  only  a 
large  paper  lanthern,  which  cannot  be  seen  far  off,  and  I  believe 
they  only  show  this  when  they  perceive  a  strange  vessel.  They 
were  fishing  in  pairs,  one  vessel  being  attached  by  cables  to  each 
end  of  an  enormous  net,  which  kept  them  both  broadside  to  the  sea ; 
they  were  constantly  covered  with  the  spray,  and  being  light,  were 
washed  about  in  so  violent  a  manner  that  it  scarcely  appeared  pos- 
sible for  people  to  stand  upon  their  decks.  Still  the  crews  of  sev- 
eral which  we  passed  consisted  prinrjsiiy -oi  'iema"i«?s,*HW^'mu  lioi' 
lippeaFto  be  m  tne  least  mconvenie'nced  by  their  situation. 

In  the  forenoon  we  passed  Piedra  Branca,  and  in  the  evening 
[entered  the  channel  between  the  Great  Lemma  and  Potoy.  As  no 
pilot  offered,  I  stood  on  guided  by  the  chart  of  Lieutenant  Ross, 
thich  was  extremely  accurate,  and  at  ten  at  night  brought  up  in 
ilie  Lantao  passage,  and  at  nine  o'clock  next  morning  anchored  in 
ilie  Typa.  In  entering  this  harbour  we  found  less  depth  of  water 
ilian 's  marked  in  the  plan  of  Captain  King;   and  by  the  survey 


i^  »i 


-^3*. 


^*. 


373 


VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[Al-pil, 


which  we  subsequently  made,  it  appeared  tliat  at  low  water  a  ship 
cannot  depend  upon  a  greater  depth  than  two  fathoms,  until  after 
she  passes  the  rocky  head  on  her  right. 

Immediately  after  we  were  anchored,  I  visited  the  late  Sir  Wil- 
liam Fraser,  who  was  then  chief  officer  of  the  company's  factory  at 
Canton,  and  we  both  waited  upon  the  Portuguese  governor.  He 
gave  us  a  very  ungracious  reception,  for  which  we  could  account  in 
no  other  way  than  by  supposing  he  felt  annoyed  at  our  unceremo- 
nious entry  of  the  Typa,  without  either  pilot  or  permission ;  for  the 
Portuguese  at  Macao,  I  understand,  claim  the  Typa  as  their  own, 
under  the  emperor's  original  grant  of  Macao  to  them  for  their  ser- 
vices to  China.  Some  Portuguese  officers  who  came  on  board  dur- 
ing my  absence,  intimated  that  the  ship  would  not  be  allowed  to 
remain  in  the  harbonr.  We  heard  nothing  more  cf  the  matter, 
however,  for  several  days,  when  a  mandarin  waited  upon  Sir  Will- 
iam Fraser  to  inquire  into  the  business  of  the  man  of  war  anchored 
in  the  Typa.  About  the  same  time  several  war  junks,  two  of  which 
had  mandarin's  flags,  came  down  the  river,  beating  their  gongs,  and 
anchored  not  far  from  us. 

The  mandarin  received  a  satisfactory  answer  from  Sir  William 
Fraser  ;  but  some  days  after,  the  Hoppo  finding  the  ship  did  not 
go  away,  addressed  the  following  letter  to  the  Hong  merchants  :— 

"  Wan,  by  imperial  appointment,  commissioner  for  foreign  duties 
of  the  port  of  Canton,  an  officer  of  the  imperial  household,  cav- 
alry officer,  &CC.  &ic.  &c.  raised  three  steps,  and  recorded  seven- 
teen times, 

'•'  Hereby  issues  an  order  to  the  Hong  merchants. 

"The  MsiCSiO  Wenguin  have  reported,  that  on  the  18th  of  the 
13th  moon,  the  pilot  Chinnang-Kwang  announced  that  on  the  I'lh 
an  English  cruiser,  Peitche,*  arrived,  and  anchored  at  Tausac. 

"  On  the  pilot's  inquiring,  the  said  captain  affirmed  that  he  came 
from  his  own  country  to  cruise  about  other  parts,  but  gales  of  wind 
forced  him  in  here,  where  he  would  anchor  awhile  till  the  wind 
was  fair,  and  then  he  would  take  his  departure.  I  could  only  in 
obodience  ascertain  these  circumstances,  and  also  the  following  par- 
ticulars : 

'^'V''l?inj9.ii^Hii''t1iVsi*n'i)^i\>^  26  guns,  60  muskets,  60 

swords,  700  -atties  of  powder,  arid  iOO'balls.  ' 

«  This  imormation  is  hereby  communicated  to  higher  authority. 

"  Coming  before  me,  the  Hoppo,  I  have  inquired  into  the  case, 
and  since  the  said  vessel  is  not  a  merchant  ship  nor  co..,^./  to  mer- 
chantmen, it  is  inexpedient  to  allow  pretexts  to  be  made  tor  lier 
anchoring,  and  creating  a  disturbance.      I,  therefore,  order  her  to 

♦  The  Chinese  call  their  vessels  by  the  names  of  the  persons  who  commaud  tliera 


r  V^ii 


1827.] 


AND    BEKRING^S    STRAIT. 


373 


be  driven  out  of  the  port,  and  on  the  receipt  of  this  order,  let  the 
merchants,  in  obedience  thereto,  enjoin  the  said  nations,  foreigners, 
to  force  her  away.  They  will  not  be  allowed  to  make  glossing  pre- 
texts for  her  lingering  about,  and  creating  a  disturbance  which  will 
implicate  them  in  crime.  Let  the  day  of  her  departure  be  report- 
ed.   Haste !  Haste  !  a  special  order. 

"  Taou  Kwang, 

"7th  year,  3d  month,  24  day." 

The  Hong  Merchants  transmitted  this  bombastic  letter  of  the 
Hoppo  to  the  British  factory  with  the  following  letter :  but  I  must 
observe  that  the  pilot  was  incorrect  in  saying  that  he  derived  his 
information  from  me,  or  that  such  a  pretext  for  putting  into  the 
Typa  was  made. 

"  We  respectfully  inform  you  that  on  the  23d  inst.  we  received 
an  edict  from  the  Hoppo  concerning  Peitche's  cruiser  anchoring 
at  Tausae,  and  ordering  her  away.  We  send  a  copy  of  the  docu- 
ment for  your  perusal,  and  beg  your  benevolent  brethren  of  the 
committee  to  enforce  the  order  on  the  said  Peitche's  cruiser  to  go 
away  and  return  home.     She  is  not  allowed  to  linger  about. 

"  We  further  beg  you  to  inform  us  of  her  departure,  that  we  may 
with  evidence  before  us  report  the  same  to  government. 

"  We  write  on  purpose  about  this  matter  alone,  and  send  our 
compliments,  wishing  you  well  in  every  respect. 

"  To  the  chiefs  :  "  We  the  merchants  : 

Mr.  Fraser,  .  Wooshowchang,  (Howqua's  son,) 

Mr.  Toone,  and  others." 

Mr.  Plowden." 

The  officers  of  the  factory  were  aware  of  the  ground  upon  which 
the  Chmese  founded  their  appeal,  it  being  understood,  I  believe, 
that  a  vessel  of  war  is  not  to  enter  the  C.unese  territory  except  for 
the  purpose  of  protecting  their  own  trading  ships.  At  the  same 
time  they  were  sufficiently  acquainted  with  the  Chinese  style  of 
writing  to  know  that  this  was  only  a  common  remonstrance,  how- 
ever strong  the  language  used  might  appear,  and  they  amicably 
airra'iged  the  business  until  near  the  time  of  our  departure,  when 
another  letter  arrived,  to  which  they  were  able  to  give  a  satisfactory 
answer  by  our  moving  out  of  the  Typa. 

As  our  object  was  to  procure  the  stores  we  required,  and  to  pro- 
ceed to  sea  as  quickly  as  possible,  our  movements  were  not  in  any 
way  influenced  by  this  order  of  the  Poppo  ;  and  had  it  not  been 
necessary  to  proceed  to  Canton  to  ascertain  what  was  in  the  market 
there,  we  should  have  sailed  befove  this  dispatch  reached  its  destin- 
ation.    It  appeared  that  we  had  arrivuu  at  an  unfortunate  period,  as 


"  M 


\ 


IS   - 


374  VOYAOK    TO    THE    PACIFIC  [April, 

there  were  very  few  naval  stores  in  the  place,  and  the  Chinese 
were  either  so  dilatory,  or  so  indifferent  about  delivering  some  that 
had  been  bargained  for  in  Canton  that  we  were  obliged  to  sail 
without  them.  We,  however,  procured  sufficient  supplies  to  en- 
able us  to  prosecute  the  voyage,  and  on  the  ^Oth  of  April  took  our 
departure. 

During  our  stay  at  Macao  we  received  the  greatest  attention 
from  the  officers  of  the  Company's  establishment,  who  politely 
gave  us  apartments  in  their  houses,  and  in  ever  way  forwarded  our 
wishes ;  and  I  am  happy  to  join  in  the  thanks  expressed  in  my 
officers'  journals  for  the  hospitality  we  all  experienced. 

Soon  after  our  arrival  in  the  Typa,  a  febrile  tendency  was  exper- 
ienced  throughout  the  ship,  and  before  we  sailed  almost  every  ofli. 
cer  and  seaman  on  board  was  affected  with  a  cold  and  cough,  which 
in  some  cases  threatened  aneumonia ;  but  the  officers  who  resided 
in  the  town  were  free  from  complaint  until  they  returned  to  the 
ship.  The  probable  causes  of  this  were  the  humid  state  of  the  air, 
the  cold  heavy  dews  at  night,  and  the  oppressively  hot  weather 
during  the  day,  added  to  the  currents  of  air  which  made  their  way 
between  the  islands  into  the  Typa,  where  the  atmosphere,  penned 
in  on  all  sides  by  hills,  was  otherwise  excessively  close.  On  this 
account  I  think  the  Typa  very  objectionable,  and  should  recommend 
the  anchorage  off  Cabreta  Point  in  preference. 

By  a  plan  of  the  Typa,  which  we  contrived  to  make  during  our  I 
visit,  it  appears  that  the  depth  of  water  is  diminishing  in  the  har- 
bour, and  that  in  some  parts  of  the  channel  there  is  not  more  than 
ten  feet  and  a  half  at  low  water  spring  tides  ;  the  rise  of  the  tide  at  j 
this  time  being  seven  feet  one  inch.  The  channel  has  shifted  since 
the  surveys  of  Captains  King  and  Heywood,  and  new  land-marks 
for  entering,  which  I  have  given  in  my  Nautical  Remarks,  are  be- 1 
come  necessary. 

On  leaving  Macao  we  hoped  that  the  S.  W.  monsoon  would  set] 
in,  and  carry  us  expeditiously  to  the  northward  ;  instead  of  th 
however,  we  were  driven  down  upon  the  island  of  Leuconia  in  the  I 
parallel  of  17"  16'  N.  where  we  perceived  the  coast  at  a  great 
distance.  Here  it  fell  calm,  and  the  weather,  which  had  been  in- 
creasing in  temperature  since  our  departure  from  Macao,  became 
oppressively  hot,  the  thermometer  sometimes  standing  at  89°  in  the 
shade,  and  the  mean  height  for  the  day  being  85°,  7  of  Fahren- 
heit. 

About  this  time  we  saw  several  splendid  meteors,  which  left  I 
trains  of  sparks  as  they  descended.     On  the  6th  a  parhelion  was 
visible  at  51"  50'  on  the  south  side  of  the  sun,  when  about  2°of| 
altitude,  and  as  we  passed  Orange  Island  wc  felt  a  sudden  shock. 


^vm 


^ 


[April 

md  the  Chinese 
ivering  some  that 
e  obliged  to  sail 
t  supplies  to  en- 
of  April  took  our 

greatest  attention 
lent,  who  politely 
^ay  forwarded  our 

expressed  in  my 
jnced. 
ndency  was  exper- 

almost  every  offi. 
i  and  cough,  which 
icers  who  resided 
y  returned  to  the 
nid  state  of  the  air, 
ively  hot  weather 
ch  made  their  way 
tmosphere,  penned 
y  close.  On  this 
1  should  recommend  I 

;n  make  during  our 
pishing  in  the  har-  ] 
:e  is  not  more  tl 

rise  of  the  tide  at  I 
lel  has  shifted  since 
new  land-marks] 
Remarks,  are  be- 

nonsoon  would  set 
instead  of  this, 
of  Leuconia  in  the 
coast  at  a  great 
hich  had  been  in- 
m  Macao,  became 
jding  at  89°  in  the 
15'',  7  of  Fahren- 

Bteors,  which  left 
.  a  parhelion  was  I 
when  about  2°  of] 
a  sudden  shock, 


1937.1 


AND    BEERINO's    STRAIT. 


375 


I    ^a 


accompanied  by  a  momentary  gust  of  wind  which  threatened  the 
,i,asts :  the  sky  at  this  time  was  quite  clear  and  cloudless. 

On  the  7th  we  saw  the  south  Bashee  Islands,  celebrated  as  one 
of  the  resorts  of  the  Buccaneers,  and  the  day  following  made  tlie 
Island  of  Botel  Tobago  Xima.  While  off  the  Bashee  Islands  we 
noticed  a  great  rippling  in  the  Balingtang  Channel,  and  during  the 
night  we  experienced  so  strong  a  current  to  the  north  west  that  in- 
stead of  passing  the  Cumbrian  Reef  ten  miles  to  the  eastward,  aji 
ffe  expected,  on  the  following  morning  we  found,  greatly  to  our 
surprise,  that  we  had  been  set  on  the  opposite  side  of  it,  and  much 
closer  than  was  consistent  with  security  in  a  dark  night.  These 
nirrents  render  precaution  very  necessary ;  that  b^  which  we  were 
I  affected  ran  N.  56°  W.  twenty-six  miles  during  the  night,  or  about 
mo  miles  and  a  half  per  hour.  We  continued  to  leel  this  effect 
antil  we  were  a  full  day's  sail  from  Botel  Tobago  Xima,  and  we 
were  obliged  in  consequence  to  beat  through  the  channel  between 
I  that  island  and  Formosa.  In  doing  this  we  had  an  opportunity  of  ex- 
amining the  shores  of  Botel  Tobago  Xima,  and  of  constructing  a 
tolerably  good  plan  of  its  nothern  and  western  sides,  besides  deter- 
mining its  position  more  accurately  than  had  been  done  when  we 
passed  it  on  the  former  occasion. 

The  aspect  of  this  part  of  the  island  is  both  agreeable  and  pic- 

I  luresque.     The  mountains  are  covered  with  wood  and  verdure  to 

iheir  summit,  and  are  broken  by  valleys  which  open  out  upon 

ains  sloping  rather  abruptly  from  the  bases  of  the  hills  to  the  sea 

I  coast. 

Almost  every  part  of  this  plain  is  cultivated  in  the  Chinese  man- 
lier, being  walled  up  in  steep  places,  like  the  sides  of  Dane's  Island 
Bthe  Tigris.  Groves  and  tufts  of  palm  trees  break  the  stifRiess 
Khich  this  mode  of  cultivation  would  otherwise  wear,  and  by  their 
liraceful  foliage  greatly  improve  its  appearance.  In  a  sand  bay  on 
north  side  of  the  island  there  is  a  large  village  consisting  of  low 
I  kiuses  with  pointed  roofs. 

There  are  several  rocky  points  on  the  north-west  side,  and  some 
I  detached  rocks  lie  off  the  northern  extremity,  which  are  remarka- 
I  He  for  their  spire-like  form.  The  coast  is  rocky  in  almost  every 
rt,  and  probably  dangerous  to  land  upon,  as  these  needle  rocks 
I  are  seen  in  many  parts  of  the  island.  With  the  exception,  how- 
ever, of  those  off  the  north  extreme,  they  are  attached  to  the  is- 
land by  very  low  land,  but  the  shore  under  water  often  assumes 
the  character  of  that  which  is  above,  in  case  a  vigilant  look  out  for 
rocks  would  here  be  necessary  in  rowing  along  the  coast.  At  three 
miles  distance  from  the  land  we  had  no  bottom  with  120  fathoms 
I  of  line. 
After  beating  two  days  off  Tobago  Xima  without  being  able  to 


■¥\ 


i^ti 


\  — 


^B!"'""'^ 


376 


VOTAOK  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


>,^>' 


|] 


[May, 

make  much  progress  against  the  current,  which  on  the  average  ran 
a  mile  and  a  quarter  per  hour,  on  the  10th  a  change  of  wind  ena- 
bled us  to  steer  our  course.  We  took  our  departure  from  Sam- 
sanna,  an  island  to  the  northward  of  Tobago  Xima,  situated  by  our 
observations,  nearly  in  latitude  22**  42'  N.,  and  exactly  8'  vvest  of 
the  eastern  extreme  of  the  Little  Tobago  Xima. 

I  intended,  on  leaving  Macao,  to  explore  the  sea  to  the  eastward 
of  Loo  Choo,  particularly  that  part  of  it  where  the  Yslas  Arzo- 
bispo,  the  Malabrigos,  and  the  Bonin  Islands,  are  laid  down  in  vari- 
ous charts.  It  was,  however,  no  easy  matter  to  reach  thus  far,  and 
what  with  light,  variable  winds,  and  contrary  currents,  our  progress 
was  extremely  slow,  so  that  on  the  15th  we  found  ourselves  not  far 
from  the  Great  Loo  Choo,  with  a  contrary  wind. 

About  this  time  it  was  discovered  that  the  water  we  had  taken 
on  board  at  Macao  was  extremely  bad,  owing  to  the  neglect  of  the 
comprador  in  filling  the  casks,  and  as  I  had  no  object  in  reaching 
Kamschatka  for  nearly  two  months,  I  determined  upon  proceed- 
ing to  Napakiang  in  Loo  Choo.  I  was  further  induced  to  do  this, 
on  account  of  the  longitude  of  the  places  we  might  meet  between 
it  and  Petropaulski.  We  therefore  bore  away  to  the  westward, 
and  in  the  evening  saw  the  island  bearing  W.  by  N.  ten  leagues 
distant. 

The  following  morning  we  were  close  to  the  reefs  by  which  the 
Island  of  Loo  Choo  is  nearly  surounded,  and  steered  along  them 
to  the  southward,  remarking  as  we  passed  the  excellent  harboui-s 
which  appear  to  be  formed  within  them ;  and  planning  a  chart 
of  them  as  correctly  as  our  distance  from  the  shore,  and  other  cir- 
cumstances, would  permit.  The  sea  rolled  furiously  over  the  reefs, 
which  presented  a  most  formidable  barrier  to  encounter  in  a  dark 
night,  but  we  were  glad  to  find  that  this  danger  was  lessened  by 
soundings  being  found  outside  them,  in  a  depth  of  water  which 
would  enable  a  vessel  to  anchor  in  case  of  necessity.  This  depth 
gradually  increased  to  seventy-five  fathoms,  at  four  miles  distance 
from  the  reefs. 

Daylight  had  scarcely  dawned  the  following  morning  before 
several  fishermen  paddled  towards  the  ship,  and  fastened  their  ca- 
noes alongside.  They  had  taken  several  dolphins,  which  they  ex- 
changed for  a  very  small  quantity  of  tobacco,  tying  the  fish  to  a 
rope,  and  without  the  least  mistrust  contentedly  waiting  until  the 
price  of  it  was  handed  to  them.  Their  canoes  were  capable  of 
holding  five  or  six  persons  each,  but  there  were  seldom  more  than 
two  or  three  in  any  of  them.  They  were  hollowed  out  of  large 
trees,  and  rather  clumsily  made  ;  but  it  was  evident,  from  the  neat 
manner  in  which  the  inside  was  fitted  with  bambo  gratings,  that  the 


v.. 


^,       .*     i- 


V. 


:: 


1827.] 


AND  BEERINC  S  STRAIT. 


377 


I  the  average  ran 
ige  of  wind  ena- 
rture  from  Sam- 
la,  situated  by  our 
xactly  8'  west  of 

ja  to  the  eastward 
the  Yslas  Arzo- 
laid  down  in  vari- 
•each  thus  far,  and 
rents,  our  progress 
d  ourselves  not  far 


eefs  by  which  the 

eered  along  them 

excellent  harbours 

planning  a  chart 

)re,  and  other  cir- 

isly  over  the  reefs, 

;ounter  in  a  dark 

was  lessened  by 

of  water  which 

lity.     This  depth 

lur  miles  distance 


constructors  of  llieiii  were  capable   of  much  better  workmanship. 
They  bad  no  outriggers,  and  their  sail  was  made  of  grass. 

After  remaining  alongside  some  time  they  ventured  upon  deck, 
and  saluted  us  in  tlie  Japanese  manner,  by  bowing  their  heads  very 
low,  and  clasping  their  hands  to  their  breasts.  They  appeared  to 
be  a  very  diminutive  race,  and  were  nearly  all  bow-legged,  from  the 
habitual  confinement  of  their  canoes.  Many  of  them  were  naked, 
with  the  exception  of  a  maro  ;  but  t'  se  who  were  clothed  wore 
coarse  cotton  gowns  with  large  sleeves ;  and  almost  every  person 
liad  a  pipe,  tobacco-pouch,  and  match  fastened  to  his  girdle.  As 
the  Loo  Chooans  are  reputed  to  be  descended  from  the  Japanese, 
ne  naturally  sought  in  the  countenances  of  these  people  features 
characteristic  of  that  nation,  but  found  that  they  bore  a  much  nearer 
resemblance  to  those  of  the  Malay  tribe.  Their  manners,  however, 
were  very  different  from  those  of  the  Malays ;  and  they  were  marlc- 
ed  with  a  degree  of  courtesy  and  good  breeding,  which  we  certair.ly 
should  not  have  expected  to  find  in  persons  of  their  humble  occu- 
pation, and  inferior  condition  in  life. 

Having  obtained  permission  to  look  over  the  ship,  they  examined 
attentively  those  things  which  interested  them,  and  when  their 
curiosity  was  satisfied  they  made  a  low  bow,  and  returned  to  their 
canoes,  leaving  us  well  pleased  with  their  manners.  About  this 
lime  several  dolphins  swam  round  the  ship,  and  the  fishermen  threw 

I  over  their  lines,  and  met  with  tolerable  success.  Our  lines  had  for 
some  time  been  towing  overboard  with  various  devices  of  flying- 
lish,  pieces  of  cloth,  &c.  attached  to  them,  and  springing  from  the 
water  with  the  rise  of  the  ship,  in  imitation  of  the  action  of  the 
iying-fish,  but  without  any  success,  and  we  \  ere  happy  to  take  a 
lesson  from  our  new  acquaintances.      Their  lines   were  similar  to 

purs,  but  their  snoeuds  were  made  of  wire,  and  their  hooks,  when 
properly  baited,  were  quite  concealed  in  the  body  of  a  flying-fish 
riiich  had  one  side  of  the  flesh  cut  away.  Several  lines  thus  pre- 
pared were  allowed  to  run  out  to  the  length  of  about  ten  fathoms, 
and  when  the  dolphins  were  near,  speed  was  given  to  the  canoe, 
that  the  bait  might  have  the  appearance  of  a  fish  endeavouring  to 
escape  pursuit.     In  this  manner  several  were  taken  at  no  great  dis- 

I  tance  from  us.  If  the  fish  happened  to  be  large,  the  line  was  care- 
fully drawn  in,  and  they  were  harpooned  with  an  instrument  which 

I  every  canoe  carried  for  the  purpose. 

We  stood  towards  Loo  Choo,  accompanied  by  several  of  these 
canoes,  until  within  a  kw  miles  of  the  land,  when  fearing  to  be  seen 
from  the  shore,  they  quitted  us,  first  making  signs  for  us  to  go  round 

I  to  the  other  side  of  the  island. 

About  sunset  the  wind  left  us  close  off  the  south  extremity  of  the 
Great  Loo  Choo  ;  and  all  the  next  day  it  was  so  light  that  the  boats 

48 


.*:'i 


< 


i^i'.,  < 


1^1 ;    V 


'-  ,  ^ 


378  VOYAGE  TO    THE    PACiriC  [Muu, 

were  obliged  to  tow  the  ship  toward  the  harbour.  This  slow  pro- 
gress  would  have  been  far  less  tedious  had  we  been  able  to  see  dis- 
tinctly the  country  we  were  passing,  and  the  villages  situated  in  the 
bays  at  the  back  of  the  reefs  ;  but  this  prospect  was  unfortunately 
destroyed  by  a  dense  haze  which  rendered  every  distant  object  in- 
distinct,  and  tantalized  our  expectations  by  the  variety  of  fallacious 
appearances  it  created.  Our  course,  until  four  o'clc  ':  in  tlie  after- 
noon, was  along  the  western  side  of  Loo  Choo,  batween  it  and  a 
reef  lying  about  midway  between  this  western  shore  and  the  Kirra- 
ma  islands.  About  that  time  we  arrived  off  Abbey  Point,  and  were 
entering  the  harbour  of  iiapakiang,  guided  by  our  charts,  when  we 
were  obliged  to  drop  the  anchor  to  avoid  striking  upon  a  coral  bank 
with  only  seven  feet  water  on  its  shallowest  part.  Upon  examina- 
tion we  found  that  this  bank,  which  had  hitherto  escaped  observa- 
tion, had  a  deep  channel  on  both  sides  of  it;  we  therefore  weighed 
and  steered  through  the  southern  passage.  It  afterwards  became 
necessary  to  beat  up  to  the  anchorage,  in  doing  which  we  discover- 
ed another  rock,  and  had  a  still  narrower  escape,*  We  reached 
our  destination  a  little  before  sunset,  and  then  came  to  an  anchor 
off  the  town  of  Napa. 

♦  Tho  positiona  of  these  rocks  are  given  in  the  plan  of  Napakiang,  which  wc 
conBtructed  during  our  stay  here. 


r;> 


1 1  "'''  i 


V_^. 


Napakiang,  which  we 


1827.] 


AND    BKCHINg's    STRAIT 


379 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


Appearance  of  Loo'Choo — Visits  of  the  natives — Deputation— Permiision  given  to 
land — Excursions  into  the  Country — Discover  Money  in  Circulation — Mandarin 
visits  the  Ship — Departure  of  a  Junk  with  Tribute — Visit  of  ti»c  Mandarin  return- 
ed—Further  Intercourse — Transactions  of  the  Ship — Departure — Observations 
upon  tlie  religion,  manners,  and  Customs  of  the  People  ;  upon  their  Laws,  Money, 
Weapons,  and  Punisliments :  tlieir  manufactures  and  Trade — Remarks  upon  the 
Country,  its  Productions  and  Climate — Directions  for  entering'  the  Port — Histori- 
cal Sketch  of  the  Kingdom  of  Loo  Choo. 

Loo  Choo  from  the  anchorage  presents  a  very  agreeable  land- 
scape to  the  admirers  of  quiet  scenery.     The  land  rises  with  a  grad- 
ual ascent  from  the  sea-coast  to  something  more  than  five  hundred 
feet  in  height,  and  in  almost  every  part  exhibits  a  delightful  picture 
of  industry.     The  appearance  of  formality  is  just  removed  by  a  due 
proportion  of  hill  and  valley,  and  the  monotonous  aspect  of  continu- 
ed cultivation  is  broken  by  rugged  ground,  neatly  executed  cemete- 
ries, or  by  knots  of  trees  which  mingle  the  foliage  of  the  temperate 
zone  with  the  more  graceful  vegetation  of  the  tropics.     The  most 
remarkable  feature  is  a  hill  named  Sumar,  the  summit  of  which  com- 
mands a  coup-d'ceil  of  all  the  country  round  it,  including  the  shores 
1  of  both  sides  of  the  island.     Upon  this  hill  there  is  a  town  appar- 
ently of  greater  importance  than  Napa,  called  Shui  or  Shoodi,  sup- 
posed both  by  Captain  Hall  apd  ourselves  to  be  the  capital  of  Loo 
Choo.    With  our  telescopes  it  appeared  to  be  surrounded  by  a  wall, 
and  it  had  several  flags  (hattas)  flying  upon  tall  staffs.     The  hous- 
es were  numerous,  but  the  view  was  so  obstrur'  - '.  by  masses  of  fol- 
iage  which  grew  about  these  delightful  residences  that  we  could 
form  no  estimate  of  their  numbers.     Upon  a  rise,  a  little  above  the 
I  site  of  the  other  houses  of  the  town,  there  was  a  large  building  half 
obscured  by  evergreen  trees,  which  some  of  us  imagined  might  be 
I  the  residence  of  the  king,  who  had  chosen  so  elevated  a  situation,  in 
I  order  to  enjoy  the  luxury  of  breathing  a  high  current  of  air  in  a 
country  occasionally  exposed  to  excessive  heat.     A  rich  carpet  of 
verdure  sloping  to  the  westward  connects  this  part  of  the  landscape 


•»■• 


h 


..-*; 


,i<^^^^:-j.  . 


-*     « 


■^■'" 


380 


VOVAGK  Tl>  THE   I'ACIi'IC 


[Ma,j 


with  the  bustling  town  of  JVa|)a,  or  Na,)a-cliing,*  of  which  wc  could 
SCO  little  inoro  tiiaii  a  number  of  red  roofs  turiifd  up  at  the  conicrs 
in  Ciiinese  style,  or  at  most  only  a  few  feet  down  tl;c  (•hunainmod 
walls  which  support  thctu,  in  consequence  ofa  high  wall  surroiiiid- 
ing  the  town.  To  the  right  of  the  town  along  stone  causeway 
stretches  out  into  the  sea,  with  arches  to  allow  the  water  a  free  ac- 
cess to  the  harbour  at  the  back  of  it,  and  terminates  in  a  large  scjimn; 
building  with  loop-holes.  To  this  causeway  sixteen  junks  of  thf. 
largest  class  were  secured  :  some  had  prows  formed  in  imitation  of 
animals,  and  georgeously  coloured  ;  others  pscsented  their  sides 
and  sterns  highly  painted  and  gilt ;  while,  frou)  among  their  clumsy 
cordage  aloft,  and  from  a  nu-nber  of  staffs  placed  erect  alon";  iho 
stern,  were  suspended  variously  shaped  flags,  some  indicating,  by 
their  colour,  or  the  armorial  bearing  upon  them,  the  mandarin  cap- 
tain of  the  junk  ;  some  the  tributary  Hag  of  the  Celestial  Knipiie, 
and  others  the  ensign  of  Japan.  Many  of  these  were  curiously  ar- 
ranged and  stamped  in  gilt  characters  on  silken  grounds. 

To  the  left  of  Napa  is  the  public  cemciry,  where  the  horse-jlioe 
sepulchres  rise  in  galleries,  and  on  a  sunny  day  dazzle  the  eye  with 
the  brightness  of  their  chunammed  surfaces,  and  beyond  them  again, 
to  the  northward,  is  the  humble  village  of  Potsoong,  with  its  jos- 
housc  and  bridge. 

The  bay  in  every  part  is  circimiscribed  by  a  broad  coral  ledge, 
which  to  seaward  is  generally  occupied  by  fishermen  raising  and  de- 
pressing nets  extended  upon  long  bamboo  poles,  similar  to  those  of 
the  Chinese.  Beyond  these  reefs  are  the  coral  islands  of  Tzcc,  tlie 
more  distant  islands  of  Kirrama,  and  ilir,  in  a  northern  direction,  the 
cone  of  Ee-goo-sacoo,  said  to  be  covered  with  houses  rising  in  a  spi- 
ral direction  up  its  sides.  Tlie  whole,  when  viewed  on  a  liie  day, 
and  when  the  harbour  is  enlivened  by  boats  passing  to  and  fro,  with 
well-dressed  people  chanting  their  harmonious  boat  song,  lias  a 
pleasing  effect  which  it  is  difficult  to  describe. 

Before  our  sails  were  furled  the  ship  was  surrounded  by  boats  of 
various  descriptions,  and  the  tops  of  the  houses  on  shore,  the, walls 
and  the  forts  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbour,  were  crowded  with 
spectators  watching  our  operations.  Several  persons  came  on  board, 
and  with  a  respectful  salutation  begged  permission  to  be  allowed  to 
look  over  the  ship;  but  they  were  interrupted  by  the  approach  ofa 
boat  with  an  officer,  apparently  of  rank,  whom  they  endeavoured  to 
avoid.     His  person  underwent  a  severe  scrutiny  through  our  teles- 

♦  Napa  is  decidedly  the  name  of  the  villag'e,  and  tlie  words  ching  &nd  kcang, 
which  are  occasionally  subjoined,  in  all  probability  are  intended  to  specify  wlictlier 
it  is  the  townj'or  the  river  near  it,  that  is  intended  ;  c/uVig- being  in  Chinrse  lan- 
guage a  town,  and  keang  a  river ;  and  though  these  substantives  are  ditVcrcntly 
expressed  in  Loo  Choo,  yet  when  thus  combined,  the  Chinese  expression  may  probi- 
Wy  be  used. 


[May 

wliicli  wo  could 
J)  lit  the  covMors 
:;;c  clinnammotl 
1  wall  suri'oiiiul- 
stonc  causeway 
I  water  a  iVoo  ao- 
i  ill  a  large  s(iu;ire 
teen  junks  ot"  iIm; 
!cl  in  imitation  ot" 
Jilted  tlieir  sides 
long  their  clumsy 
d  creel  alon;;  llip 
ne  indicating,  by 
he  nvdndariu  cap- 
:;;elestial  Knuiire, 
vcro  curiously  ar- 
ounds. 

re  the  horsc-^lioe 
az/.le  the  eye  with 
leyond  them  again, 
ong,  with  its  jos- 

broad  coral  ledge, 
nen  raising  and  de- 
similar  to  those  of 
lands  of  Tzec,  the 
lern  direction,  the 
)uses  rising  in  a  spi- 
rt-ed  on  a  line  day, 
ing  to  and  fro,  with 
joat  song,  has  a 

)unded  by  boats  of 
m  shore,  the  .walls 
were  crowded  with 
ons  came  on  board, 
n  to  be  allowed  to 
r  the  approach  ol  a 
ley  endeavoured  to 
through  our  teles- 

)r(ls  ching  and  kcang, 
tied  to  specify  wlie"'" 
g-  being  in  Cliinose  Ian- 
fantivcs  arc  dillcrcnlly 
I  expression  may  prob.i- 


\'i'i^•] 


AND    U££niNU  S    KTII.VIT. 


381 


opc!  long  before  he  came  on  board,  and  we  could  distinctly  see  that 
lie  liad  not  tiie  /latchcc-inatc/icr,  or  low  cylindrical  cap  worn  by 
jiersions  of  rank  in  Loo  Clioo,  in  the  same  manner  as  the  cap  and 
liutlons  arc  by  tlie  mandarins  of  China,  yet  he  was  evidently  a  man 
ofconse(iuencc,  from  the  respect  paid  l)im  by  the  natives  in  making 
room  fur  his  ajiproach.  Wiicn  he  came  along  side  he  was  invited 
upon  deck,  but  for  some  time  he  stood  minutely  examining  the  out- 
side of  the  ship,  counting  the  number  of  port-holes,  and  apparently 
forming  an  estimate  of  her  length  and  height.  At  last  be  ascended 
ihe  side  and  made  a  low  salutation  on  the  quarter  deck,  bowing  bis 
licad  in  a  respectful  manner,  and  clasping  his  hands  to  bis  breast,  as 
before  described.  Finding  we  could  not  understand  his  language  he 
waved  his  band  to  seaward,  in  intimation  that  we  should  not  be  allow- 
ed to  remain  in  the  port.  He  then  looked  dow  n  upon  the  gun  deck, 
and  pursued  his  examination  of  the  inside  of  the  ship  with  the 
>aine  rigour  that  he  had  bestowed  upon  the  exterior,  making  notes 
of  what  he  saw.  When  he  was  satisfied,  he  expressed  his  thanks 
for  our  civility  and  returned  to  the  shore. 

Soon  after  his  departure,  several  well-dressed  persons,  with  boys 
liolding  parasols  over  them,  were  observed  coming  off  to  us  :  they 
[  were  seated  in  Chinese  style  upon  mats  spread  in  the  bottom  of  the 
boat,  over  neat  ratan  platforms,  and  were  propelled  by  several  per- 
sons working  at  a  large  oar  as  a  scull,  keeping  time  to  a  song,  of 
which  the  chorus  was  yn  ha  nmshmvt/i/,  or  words  very  similar. 

They  were  elegantly  dressed  in   ;owns  made    of  grass  cloth,  of 
I  which  the  texture  was  fine  and  open,  and  being  a  little  stiff,  formed 
a  most  agreeable  attire  in  a  country  which  was  was  naturally   warm. 
I  To   prevent  this  robe  being  incommodious   while  walking,  it  was 
llound  at  the  waist  with  a  girdle,  linen  or  silk,  according  to  the  rank 
lofthe  wearer.     They  bad  sandals  made  of  straw,  and  one  of  them, 
whose  name  was  An-yab,  had  linen  stockings.     None  of  them  had 
nny  covering  to  the  head,  but  wore  their  hair  turned  back  from  all 
parts,  and  secured  in  a  knot  upon  the  crown,  with  two  silver  pins, 
hmcsashe  and  oomcsashe,  the  former  of  which  bad  an  ornamental 
head  resembling  a  flower  with  six  petals  ;  the  other  was  very  simi- 
lar to  a  small  marrow-spoon.     Each  person  had  a  square  silken  to- 
bacco-pouch embroidered  with  gold  and  silver,  and  a  short  pipe  of 
which  die  bowl  and  mouth-piece  were  also  silver,  and  one  who  was 
secretary  to  An-yah  carried  a  massy  silver  case  of  writing  materials. 
They  saluted  us  very  respectfully,  first  in  the  manner  of  their 
I  own  country  and  then  of  ours,  and  An-yah,  by  means  of  a  vocabu- 
lary which  he  brought  in  his  pocket,  made  several  inquiries,  which 
occasioned  the  following  dialogue.     **  What  for  come  Doo  Choo  V* 

•This  word  is  pronounced  Doo-Choo  by  the  natives,  but  ns  it  is  known  in  England 
I  as  Loo  Choo,  I  shall  preserve  that  orthography. 


i 


'<  1 


Ul 


,*l. 


m\ 


38-2 


VOYAGE   TO   THE    PACIFIC 


[May, 
To  get  some  water,  refit  the  ship,  and  recover  the  sick."     "How 


many  mans 


?"  *<  A  hundred."  "Plenty  mans!  you  got  hundred 
ten  mans  ?"  "  No,  a  hundred."  "  Plenty  guns  ?"  <'  Yes."  "  How 
many  ?"  "Twenty-six."  "  Plenty  mans,  plenty  guns  !  What  things 
ship  got  ?"  "  Nothing,  ping-chuen."  "  No  got  nothing  ?"  '•  ]\o 
nothing."  "  Plenty  mans,  plenty  guns,  no  got  nothing !"  and  turn- 
ing to  his  secretary  he  entered  into  a  conversation  with  him,  in 
which  it  appeared  almost  evident  that  he  did  not  wholly  credit  our 
statement.  It  was,  however,  taken  down  in  writing  by  the  secre- 
tary. 

In  order  more  fully  to  explain  myself  I  showed  them  some  sen- 
tences written  in  Chinese,  which  informed  them  that  the  ship  was 
an  English  man  of  war  :  that  the  king  of  England  was  a  friend  of 
the  emperor  of  China ;  and  that  ships  of  our  nation  had  frequent 
intercourse  with  the  town  of  Canton.  The  secretary,  who  read 
these  sentences  aloud,  immediately  wrote  in  elegant  Chinese  char- 
acters! "What  is  your  reason  for  coming  to  this  place  !  How  ma- 
ny men  are  there  on  board  your  ship  ?"  and  was  both  sorry  and 
surprised  to  find  I  could  not  understand  what  he  had  written.  In- 
deed he  appeared  to  doubt  my  sincerity,  particularly  after  I  had 
shown  him  the  next  question,  which  happened  to  be  an  answer  to 
his  question,  but  which  naturally  followed  the  first,  stating  that  we 
were  in  want  of  water  and  fresh  provision,  and  that  the  sick  required 
to  be  landed  to  recover  their  health,  and  concluding  by  specifying 
our  desire  to  be  allowed  to  pay  for  every  thing  that  was  supplied  toi 
us.  An-yah  received  this  information  with  satisfaction,  and  replied, 
"  I  speakee  mandarin  ;  Doo  Chooman  want  no  pay." 

Tliese  sentences  were  kindly  furnished  me  by  Dr.  Morrison,  at  | 
my  own  request,  in  case  circumstances  should  render  it  necessary 
to  put  into  Loo  Choo,  and  they  were   written  in  Chinese  charac- 
ters, which  Dr.  Morrison  was  well  aware  would  be  quite  intelligi- 
ble to  the  literati  of  Loo   Choo,  who  express  themselves  in  the , 
same  character  as  the  Chinese,  though  their  language  is  totally  dif- 
ferent.    They  contained  many  interesting  inquiries,  and  afforded  the  j 
means  of  asking  questions  without  the  chance  of  misinterpretation, 
To  several  of  them  the  negative  or  affirmative  was  all   that  was  re- 1 
quired,  and  these  are  expressions  understood  by  most  people.    It  I 
happened,  however,  that  An-yah  had  learned  enough  of  the  Eng- 
lish language  to  say  something  more  than  these  monosyllables ;  so  i 
that  what  with  his  proficiency,  and  the  help  of  these  sentence^,  be- 
sides a  dictionary,  vocabulary,   and   dialouges   in  both   languages, 
which  Dr.  Morrison  had  also  very  generously  given  me,  we  had  tlie 

t  This,    as  well  as  several  other  papers  written  by  the  Loo   Chooans,    was  aftor^ 
wards  interpreted   by  Mr.  Hultinann  of  the  Asiatic   Society,  to  whom,  and  also  u^  f/^ 
Sir  William  Ousely,  I  beg-  permission  to  be  allowed  to  cxpvess  my  thanks.  H*r(ckei 


HW^IS^SHtSl""*  P 


[May,    ■  1827.] 

jsick."  "How 
ou  got  hundred 
«'Yes."  "How 
IS  I  What  tilings 
athing?"  "No, 
ingl"  and  turn- 
ion  with  him,  in 
vhoUy  credit  our 
ing  by  the  secre- 

1  them  some  sen- 
that  the  ship  was 
id  was  a  friend  of 
tion  had  frequeut 
icretary,  who  read 
gant  Chinese  char- 
place  \     How  ma- 
?as  both  sorry  and 
had  written.    In- 
jularly  after  1  had 
to  be  an  answer  to 
rst,  stating  that  we 
at  the  sick  required 
iding  by  specifying 
hat  was  supplied  to 
faction,  and  replied, 

pay-" 

ly  Dv.  Morrison,  at 

lender  it  necessary 

I  Chinese  cliarac- 

be  quite  intelligi- 
themselves  in  the 
^uage  is  totally  dif- 
fes,  and  afForrled  tlie 
|f  misintevpretatioti, 

as  all  that  was  re- 
most  people.    It 

iough  of  the  En§- 

monosyllables;  so 

lese  sentences,  be- 

jinboth  languages, 

'en  me,  we  had  tbe 

^,„  Chooans,   was  aft«- 
fy,  to  >ivhom,  andaUowj 
Ibs  my  thanks. 


AND    BEERINC  S    STRAIT. 


383 


means  of  gaining  a  good  den'  of  information  ;  more,  probably,  than 
ffe  could  have  done  throug'.  an  indifferent  interpreter.  As,  howev- 
er, opinions  vary  concerning  the  written  character  of  China  being 
in  general  use  in  Loo  Choo,  I  shall  hereafter  offer  some  observa- 
tions on  the  subject. 

After  our  visiters  had  satisfied  their  curiosity  concerning  our  ob- 
ject in  putting  into  Loo  Choo,  they  sat  down  to  dinner,  which  was 
ready,  and  with  much  address  and  good  humour  showed  us  they 
had  learned  to  chin-chin,  or  drink  healths  in  the  English  manner. 

I  was  very  anxiouo  io  ?nd  out  who  my  guest  with  the  vocabula- 
ry was,  as  it  first  occurred  to  me  that  it  might  be  Madera,  of  whom 
Captain  Hall  so  frequently  speaks  in  his  delightful  publication  on 
Loo  Choo ;  but  then  he  did  not  seem  to  be  so  well  acquainted  with 
the  English  langnage  as  Madera  appears  to  have  been,  and,  be- 
sides, he  must  have  been  much  younger.  His  objection  to  answer- 
ing our  inquiries  on  this  head,  and  disclaiming  all  knowledge  of  any 
vessel  having  ever  been  at  Loo  Choo  before,  put  it  out  of  my  pow- 
er at  first  to  inform  myself  on  the  point,  and  had  not  his  own  cu- 
riosity overcome  his  prudence,  it  would  perhaps  have  long  remained 
a  secret. 

The  manner  in  which  the  discovery  was  made  is  curious  ;  after 

I  tbe  sackee  *  had  gone  round  a  few  times,  An-yah  inquired  if  "  ship 

uot  womans  ?"  and  being  answered   in  the   negative,   he  replied, 

somewhat  surprised,  "  other  ships  gotwomans  handsome  womans  !" 

alluding  to  Mrs.  Loy,  with  whom  the  Loo  Chooans  were  so  much 

Icaptivated  that,  it  is  thought,  she  had  an  offer  from  a  person  of  high 

iiuthority  in  the  island.     I  then  taxed  him  with  having  a  knowledge 

lofother  ships,   and  when  he  found   he  had   betrayed   himself,  he 

[laughed  heartily,  and  acknowledged  that  he  reccollectcd  the  visit 

lofthe  Alceste  and  Lyra,  which  he  correctly   said  was  144  moons 

Iigo,  and  that  he  was  the  linguiu  An-yah  whom  Captain  Hall  calls 

].\n-yah  Toonshoonfa,  but  he  disclaimed  all  right  to  this  appendage 

1 10  his  name.     Havmg  got  thus  far,  I  inquired  after  almost  all  the 

[characters  which  so  much  interested  me  in  reading  the  publication 

Ijiluded  to  above  ;  but   they   either  prevaricated,  or  disclaimed  all 

iRcollection  of  the  persons  alluded  to,  and  I  found  it  extremely  diffi- 

jcult  to  get  a  word  in  answer. 

At  last  one  of  them  said  Ookoma  was  at  the  other  end  of  the  is- 

ind,  and  another  immediately  added  that  he  had  gone  to  Pekin. 
\S.  third  stated  that  Madera  was  very  ill  at  the  capital,  while  it  was 
Inserted  by  others  that  he  was  dead,  or  that  he  was  banished  to 
iPatanjun.t    They  all  maintained  they  had  never  any  knowledge 

♦  The  Loo  Choo  name  for  wine  or  spirits 
♦An  island  aituated    near  Ty-pingchan,  upon  which   Captain   Rroughton   was 

|»recked. 


r 


mji'4 


^  "il^M 


384 


VOYAGC    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[Mmj, 


of  such  persons  as  Shangfwee,  and  ShUiig  Pungfwee,  the  names  giv- 
en to  the  king  and  prince  of  Loo  Choo  in  Captain  Hall's  publica- 
tion. From  this  conversation  it  was  very  evident  that  they  knew 
perfectly  well  who  Ookoma  and  Madera  were,  but  did  not  intend 
to  give  us  any  correct  information  about  them. 

I  was  a  little  vexed  to  find  that  neither  An-yah  nor  Isaacha-San- 
doo,  who  was  also  of  our  party,  and  is  mentioned  by  Captain  Hall, 
made  the  slighest  inquiry  after  any  of  the  officers  of  the  Alceste 
or  Lyra,  by  whom  they  had  been  treated  in  the  most  friendly  man- 
ner, and  for  whom  it  might  have  been  inferred,  from  the  tears  that 
were  shed  by  the  Loo  Chooans  on  the  departure  of  those  ships/ 
that  the  greatest  regard  had  been  entertained.  The  only  time 
they  alluded  to  them  was  when  Mrs.  Loy  recurred  to  their  imag- 
ination. 

When  they  had  drank  enough  sackee  they  rose  to  take  their  leave,  I 
and,  emptying  the  contents  of  the  fruit  dishes  into  their  pockets,] 
retired  in  great  good  humour  ;  but  An-yah,  not  quite  satisfied  about] 
the  number  of  men  on  board  the  ship,  probably  imagining,  from  the 
number  he  saw  aloft,  that  there  were  many  more,  again  asked  the] 
question,  "How  many  mans!"  and  on  being  answered  as  before, 
replied  "  Not  got  hundred  one  ?"  which  he  wrote  down  a  second] 
time  ;  and  having  satisfied  himself  on  this  knotty  point  shook  us 
by  the  hand  and  said,  "  Well,  I  speakee  mandarin,  to-morrow  cornel 
water ;  Doo  Cbooman  no  want  pay  :  fife  day  you  go  away."  "  That,"! 
I  returned,  "will  depend  upon  the  health  of  the  sick,  who  must  ba 
allowed  to  land  and  walk  about."     I  then  desired  him  to  tell  the 
mandarin,  that  to-morrow  I  should  go  on  shore  and  wait  on  him  ia 
his  own  house.     An-yah,  alarmed  lest  the  threat  might  be  came(| 
into  execution,  hastily  exclaimed,  "  No,  no,  I  speakee    mandarin,! 
mans  go  ashor     walk  about,  no  go  house — no  go  house."      ThujT 
by  threatening  to  do  more  than  was  intended,  we  obtained   a  tacij 
consent  to  that  which  we  wanted  without  much  chance  of  giviiia 
offence.     Unwilling  to  give  him  any  further  uneasiness,  I  permitteJ 
him  to  go,  requesting  he  would  deliver  to  the   mandarin  an  invita! 
tion  to  visit  the  ship,  which  he  promised  to  do  ;  and  seating  himself 
and  his  companions  on  the  mat  in  the  boat,  he  sculled  on  shore  t^ 
the  musical  chorus  of  "  ya-ha-me-shawdy." 

Our  decks  were  by  this  time  crowded  witli  spectators,  who  lia! 
been  coming  off  in  boat  loads.  The  place  did  not  appear  to  afforJ 
many  of  these  conveyances,  and  they  had  to  go  backwards  and  foij 
wards  between  the  ship  and  the  shore  a  great  many  times,  alwai 
singing  their  boat  songs  as  they  sculled  themselves  along.  Oi( 
visitors  had  paid  us  the  compliment  of  putting  on  their  best  attir^ 
all  of  which  was  made  of  the  grasscloth  in  the  manner  before  dei 
scribed  ;  the  colours  were  various,  but  mostly  blue. 


lIPiHPI 


[May, 

,  the  names  giv- 
Hall's  publica- 

ihat  they  knew 
did  not  intend 

nor  Isaacha-San- 
3y  Captain  Hall, 
of  the  Alceste 
ost  friendly  man-  ^ 
,m  the  tears  that 
of  those  ships, 
The  only  time 
d  to  their  imag- 

o  take  their  leave, 
ito  their  pockets,^ 
uite  satisfied  about 
magining,  from  the 
5,  again  asked  the 
iswered  as  before, 
te  down  a  second 
ly  point  shook  us 
in,  to-morrow  come] 

JO  away.        a' 
?  sick,  who  must  be 
d  him  to  tell  thf 
and  wait  on  him  it 
.might  be  cavfd 
peakee    mandarin, 
house."      Tld 
obtained  a  taci^ 
.  chance  of  givmS 
asiness,  I  permits 
landarin  an  invitaj 
and  seating  himself 
iculled  on  shore  « 

pectators,  who  hai 
iot  appear  to  affor 

backwards  and  toi 
nany  times,  alway 
lelves  along.  0" 
In  their  best  attir( 

manner  before  A 

»lue.     " 


t 


1827.] 


AND    BEERINO  S    STRAIT. 


385 


The  utmost  good  breeding  was  manifested  by  every  one  of  them, 
not  only  in  scrupulously  making  their  bow  wlien  they  entered  and 
fjuittcd  the  ship,  but  in  not  allowing  their  curiosity  to  carry  them 
beyond  what  they  thought  perfectly  correct.  They  all  seemed 
deterniined  to  he  pleased,  and  were  apparently  quite  happy  in  be- 
ing perniitted  to  indulge  their  curiosity,  which  was  very  great,  and 
bespoke  them  a  people  extremely  desirous  of  information.  It  was 
aiiiMsing  to  observe  which  objects  attracted  the  particular  attention 
of  each  individual,  which  we  thought  always  accorded  with  the  trade 
or  profession  of  the  party ;  for,  as  we  had  at  different  timos  all  the 
population  of  Napa  c^  board  the  ship,  we  must  have  had  persons 
of  all  occupations.  We  observed  two  of  these  people,  after  hav- 
ing gratified  their  curiosity  about  the  deck,  seat  themselves  in  their 
canoes,  and  commence  drawing  a  picture  of  the  ship — one  selected 
a  broadside  view,  and  the  other  a  quarter,  each  setting  at  defiance 
rules  of  perspective.  The  artist  on  the  quarter  had  of  course 
Itbe  most  difficult  task,  and  drew  the  stern  as  a  continuation  of  the 
broadside,  by  which  it  appeared  like  an  enormous  quarter  galley 
the  ship.  That  they  might  make  an  exact  representation,  they 
liook  their  station  at  the  distance  of  twenty  feet  from  the  side  of  the 
fhip,  and  commenced  their  drawing  upon  a  roll  of  paper  about  six 
feet  in  length,  upon  which  they  pourtrayed  not  only  the  outline  of 
ihe  ship,  but  the  heads  of  all  the  bolts,  the  but  ends  of  the  planks, 
jind  before  it  was  finished,  no  doubt,  intended  to  trace  even  the 
pin  of  the  wood.  Whatever  merit  might  have  been  attached  to 
drawing,  the  artists  were  entitled  to  commendation  for  their  per- 
bverance,  which  overcame  every  difficulty  ;  and  they  had  some  few 
lio  contend  with.  A  little  before  sunset  they  rolled  up  their  paper 
id  paddled  on  shore. 

We  were  scarcely  up  the  following  morning  before  our  ears  were 
sailed  by  the  choruses  of  the  boatmen  bringing  off  new  visiters 
ihe  ship,  who  continued  to  pass  between  her  and  the  shore  the 
(hole  of  the  day,  carrying  a  fresh  set  at  every  trip,  so  that  the  liar- 
Dur,  if  possible,  presented  a  mere  lively  scene  than  it  did  the  day 
efore  :  on  shore  the  walls  and  housetops  were  occupied  by  groups 
(ho  sat  for  hours  looking  towards  the  anchorage.  Our  visiters  as 
efore  were  well  dressed  and  well  bred  people,  and  extremely  ap- 
fehensive  of  giving  offence  or  even  of  incomiTioding  us. 
The  mandarin,  however,  fearful  we  might  experience  some  an- 
oyance from  having  so  many  people  on  board  without  any  person 
icontrol  them,  sent  off  a  trusty  little  man  with  adisproportionably 
tinj  bamboo  cane  to  keep  order,  and  who  was  in  consequence  nam- 
Master-at-Arms  by  the  seamen.  This  little  man  took  care  that 
lie  importance  of  his  OiTice  should  not  escape  notice,  and  occasion- 
lly  exercised  his  baton  of  authority,  in   a  manner  which  seemed 

49 


t 


!  4 


Hint  .V 


"^CT" 


386 


VOVAOE    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[Mmj, 


to  me  much  too  severe  for  the  occasion  ;  and  somethnes  even  drew 
forth  severe  the  ugh  ineffectual  animadversions  from  his  poacciiblc 
countrymen  :  but  as  I  thought  it  better  that  he  should  manage  mat- 
ters in  his  own  way,  I  did  not  allow  him  to  be  interfered  with. 

Among  the  earliest  of  our  visiters  were  An-yah,  Shtafacoo,  and 
Shayoon  ;  three  intelligent,  good-natured  persons,  who,  I  have  no 
doubt,  were  deputed  to  watch  our  movements.      They  were  the 
bearers  of  a  present  of  a  pig  and  some  vegetables.      As  An-yah 
had  promised,  several  boats  commenced  supplying  the  ship  with 
water,  bringing  it  off  in  large  tubs.*     In  reply  to  my   request  that 
the  officers  and  invi:lids  might  be  allowed  to  walk  about  on  shore, 
An-yah  said  he  had  s^oicen  to  the  mandarin,  who  had  sent  off  a] 
Loo  Choo  physician  to  administer  to  the  health  of  our  invalids,  and  i 
in  fact  who  would  see  whether  our  statement  concerning  them  was 
correct  or  not.     A  consequential  little  man,  with  a  huge  pair  ofl 
Chinese  spectacles,  being  introduced  as  the  Esculapius  in  question,] 
begged  to  be  permitted  to  visit  the  sick  and  to  feel  their  pulse.    The 
surgeon  says — '*  he  gravely  placed  his  finger  upon  the  rabial  arteiyj 
first  of  one  wrist  and  then  of  the  other,  and  returned  to  the  first! 
again,  making  considerable  pressure  for  upwards  of  a  minute  upoiij 
each.     To  one  patient  affected  with  a  chronic  liver  complaint,  audi 
in  whom  the  pulsations  are  very  different  in  the  two  arms,  in  con-| 
sequence  of  an  irregular  distribution  of  the  arteries,  he  recommend- 
ed medicine  :  of  another  person  affected  with  dyspepsia  whose  pulsol 
was  natural,  he  said  nothing ;  no  other  part  of  the  animal  econo^ 
my  attracted  his  notice.     He  appeared  to  be  acquainted  with  quick- 
silver and  moxa,  but  not  with  the  odour  of  cinnamon." 

After  this  careful  examination  he  returned  to  the  cabin  and  wrot^ 
in  clumsy  Chinese  characters  that  one  of  the  patients  had  an  affec-i 
tion  of  the  stomach  rnd  required  medicine  ;  and  inquired  of  anotlH 
er  if  he  were  costive.  This  report,  which  we  did  not  understanq 
at  the  tim  was  satisfactory  to  An-yah,  who  immediately  gave  id 
permission  .  5  land  at  Potsoong  and  Abbey  Point,  but  with  an  imJ 
derstanding  that  we  were  not  to  go  into  the  town.  He  then  producJ 
ed  a  list  of  inquiries,  which  he  had  been  ordered  to  make,  such  al 
the  dimensions  of  the  ship,  the  time  we  had  been  fvom  England! 
Canton,  &c.,  and  lastly,  what  weather  we  had  experienced,  as  hi 
said  Loo  Choo  had  been  visited  by  a  violent  tyfoong  in  April,  whiclj 
unroofed  the  houses  and  did  much  other  .mischief. 

The  permission  to  land  was  immediately  taken  advantage  of  b]j 
several  of  the  officers,  who  went  to  Potsoong,  and  were  received  ii| 

♦  This  water  proved  to  be  bad,  for  though  it  had  no  very  unpleasant  taste,  it  wal 
found,  upon  being-  analysed,  to  contain  in  solution  a  large  proportion  of  niagrnesil 
and  some  salt ;  a  circumstance  which  should  be  borne  in  mind  by  vessels  (il)tainiii| 
;i  supply  at  this  place. 


AND    BEKniNO  S  STRAIT. 


387 


a  very  polite  manner  by  a  great  concourse  of  spectators,  who  con- 
ducted them  to  tlic  house  in  which  Sir  Murray  Maxwell  and  his 
officers  had  been  entertained ;  and  regaled  them  with  (tsha)  tea, 
and  (ainasa)  sweet  cakes.  Some  of  the  party,  instead  of  entering 
the  house,  strolled  inland  to  botanize,  and  to  look  at  the  country ; 
but  they  had  not  proceeded  far  before  two  or  three  persons  ran  to- 
wards them,  and  intimated  that  their  company  was  expected  at  the 
house  where  the  other  officers  were  assembled  drinking  tea,  and 
were  waiting  for  them.  This  was  the  Loo  Choo  polite  manner  of 
preventing  their  proceeding  inland,  or  of  making  themselves  ac- 
i|uninted  with  the  country ;  and  thus,  whenever  any  parties  landed 
I  afterwards,  they  were  shown  to  this  house,  where  there  was  always 
tea  ready  prepared,  and  kept  boiling  in  a  kettle,  inclosed  in  a  neatly 
I  japanned  wooden  case ;  there  were  also  trays  of  charcoal  for  light- 
ing pipes,  and  a  box  to  receive  the  ashes  when  they  were  done 
with  :  the  natives  endeavoured,  by  every  possible  means,  to  engage 
llieir  attention  at  this  place,  by  putting  a  thousand  inquiries,  offer- 
ing pipes,  and  pressing  them  to  smoke,  and  to  drink  tsha,  which 
ns  always  poured  out  in  small  cups,  and  drank  without  milk  or 
[sugar,  which,  as  it  was  quite  new,  and  not  of  the  best  kind,  or  much 
improved  by  being  kept  boiling,  had  a  very  insipid  taste ;  it,  how- 
I  ever,  served  to  quench  the  thirst  on  a  hot  day. 

On  no  account  would  these  people  receive  any  present,  nor  would 
I  ihey  sell  any  of  their  property  in  public  ;  but  if  they  thought  we 
desired  to  possess  any  thing  they  could  spare,  they  would  offer  it 
lor  our  acceptance.  I  one  day  made  a  present  to  a  person  who 
liad  been  very  civil  in  showing  me  over  his  grounds,  which  he  at 
j first  refused,  and  when  I  insisted  on  his  taking  it,  and  placed  it  in 
pocket,  he  gave  it  me  back  again  ;  but  finding  I  would  not  re- 
Iceive  it,  he  threw  it  after  me  ;  and  it  was  not  until  after  1  had  re- 
I turned  it  in  the  same  manner,  that  he  was  prevailed  upon  to  accept 
Upon  doing  this,  he  first  exhibited  it  to  the  crowd  around  him, 
land  then  thanked  me  for  it.  On  another  occasion  one  of  the  offi- 
cers offered  a  man,  named  Komee,  two  Spanish  dollars  for  his  pouch, 
Uhich  he  declined,  and  could  not  be  prevailed  upon  to  accept ;  but 
with  perfect  good  breeding  he  presented  to  him  the  object  he  de- 
sired, and  insisted  upon  his  keeping  it.  In  private,  however,  they 
had  less  objection  to  presents,  and  even  asked  for  several  things  : 
small  bargains  were  also  effected. 

From  :his  time  we  visited  the  shore  daily,  and  made  many  ex- 
cursions into  the  country,  confining  our  rambles  within  reasonable 
imiits,  to  avoid  giving  uneasiness  to  our  guides,  vvho^  "W^ai-e  v( 
much  distressed  whenever  we  stravefM'-A!,'j={Jl)(j\vhat  they  considered 
strictly  within  the  limits  '''(jfescribed  by  their  instructions.     We  met 
hnanv  r>P2S3j:;iis  and  other  persons  in  these  excursions,  all  of  whom 


388 


VOYAG£  TO  TllK  PACIFIC 


[May, 


']  * 

-A 


seemed  eager  to  sliow  us  attention,  and  with  whom  there  was  less 
reserve,  and  less  disinclination  to  our  proceeding  inland,  tlian  was 
manilested  by  our  guides  liom  Napa,  who  were  evidently  acting 
under  much  constraint. 

Lieutenant  Wainwright,  who,  since  leaving  San  Francisco,  liad 
been  an  invalid,  having  suffered  severely  from  a  disease  of  the  iicart, 
was  provided  with  a  horse  by  the  natives,  and  permitted  to  ride 
every  day  for  his  health.  He  was  attended  by  a  guide,  and  receiv- 
ed much  kindness  and  attention,  from  the  humane  Loo  Chooans, 
who,  though  they  often  gave  us  many  reasons  to  suspect  the  purity 
of  their  intentions,  were,  by  their  acts,  certainly  entitled  to  our  giat- 
titude. 

On  the  19th  we  received  a  bullock  weighing  IQOlbs.,  five  pigs,  a 
bag  of  sweet  potatoes,  some  firewood,  and  some  more  water.  Sev- 
eral of  the  officers  landed  and  walked  into  the  country,  attended 
by  the  natives,  who  endeavoured  by  every  species  of  cunning,  and 
even  by  falsehood,  to  prevent  tl>eir  going  near  the  villages,  or  pen- 
etrating far  inland.  We  had  again  a  ship  full  of  visiters,  and  the 
two  artists  were  employed  the  greater  part  of  the  day  in  completing 
their  drawing  which  tlioy  refused  to  part  with.  After  the  strangers 
were  gone  on  shore,  a  thermometer  that  was  kept  upon  deck  for 
the  purpose  of  registering  the  temperature  was  missed,  and  the  nat- 
ural conclusion  was,  that  it  han  attracted  the  attention  of  some  of 
our  visiters,  who  it  must  be  remembered,  were  of  all  classes. 

It  was  a  curious  coincidence,  but  I  believe  perfectly  accidental, 
that  the  day  after  the  instrument  was  missed  not  a  single  person 
came  off  to  the  ship,  except  those  employed  in  bringing  water; 
when  Au-yah  came  on  board  the  next  morning  I  made  our  loss 
known  to  him  ;  he  was  much  distressed  at  hearing  of  it,  and  said  he 
would  maKe  every  inquiry  about  it  on  shore,  and  added — "Plenty 
Doo  Ohoo  man  teef — plenty  mans  teef,"  he  also  advised  us  at 
the  same  time  to  look  well  after  our  watches,  handkerchiefs,  and 
particularly  any  of  the  instruments  that  were  taken  on  shore.  These 
precautions  I  am  almost  certain  were  unnecessary,  and  I  am  inclin- 
ed to  believe  that  An-yah  painted  his  countrymen  in  such  odious 
colours  to  make  us  take  proper  precautions.  Though  the  Loo 
Chooans  are  extremely  curious,  and  highly  prize  such  an  instru- 
ment, yet  the  theft  is  not  in  character  with  the  rest  of  their  con- 
duct, and  however  appearances  may  condemn  them  I  am  inclined 
to  believe  them  guiltless  of  taking  the  thermometer,  which  probably 
was  left  in  the  tub  used  for  drawing  up  sea-water  to  try  its  tempera- 
ture, and  Wua  r^'fi  Hen  tally  thrown  overboard.  And  yet  in  so  large 
a  body  of  people  there  must  iiu:i;r,?11y  be  some  who  are  bad  ;  how- 
ever, we  never  heard  any  thing  more  of  thi;  ♦liprmometer. 

A  little  before  noon  I  landed  to  observe  the  meridional  aiJiliiL't), 


m 


1 


1327.] 


AND    BEERINg's    STUAIT. 


• 

11^ 

'1  -l 

1 

i'''^ 

1,  '■ 

1 

.       V: 

IVrk 

leridiouai  allitrJt'; 


•«->—. 


and  met  Slitafaccc  and  several  other  Loo  Clioo  gentlemen,  who, 
ffere  attended  by  little  boys  holding  parasols  over  tliem,  and  carry- 
ing small  japanned  cases  containing  smoked  and  dried  meals,  small 
cups  of  preserves,  and  boiled  rice,  sackee,  a  spirit  resembling  the 
samchevv  of  China,  and  fresh  water.  They  ordered  mats  to  be 
spread  for  us,  and  we  made  a  good  luncheon  of  the  many  nice 
things  in  their  boxes.  We  afterwards  crossed  over  to  Potsoong, 
where  we  were  met  by  an  elderly  gentleman,  who  made  a  very  low 
obesiance,  and  pressed  us  to  come  into  the  house  in  which  the 
officers  of  Sir  Murray  Maxwell's  squadron  and  of  the  Blossom  had 
been  entertained,  and  which  appeared  to  be  set  apart  entirely  for 
our  use.  It  was  situated  in  a  square  area  laid  out  in  lawn  and 
(lower  beds,  and  enclosed  by  a  high  wall ;  the  house  was  built  of 
wood,  and  roofed  with  tiles  in  the  Chinese  style  ;  the  floor  was  rai- 
sed about  two  feet  from  the  ground,  and  the  rooms,  though  small, 
were  capable  of  being  thrown  into  one  by  means  of  shifting  panels. 
To  the  right  of  the  house  there  was  a  large  brass  bell,  which  wa» 
struck  with  a  wooden  club,  and  had  a  very  melodious  tone ;  at  the 
further  end  of  the  garden  was  a  joshouse,  a  place  of  worship,  which 
as  it  has  been  described  by  Captain  Hall,  I  shall  notice  only  by  the 
mention  of  a  screen  that  was  let  down  before  the  three  small  ima- 
ges on  the  inside.  It  was  made  of  canvas  stretched  upon  a  frame 
forming  two  panels,  in  each  of  which  was  a  figure ;  one  represen- 
ting a  mandarin  with  a  yellow  robe  and  hatchee  matchee,  seated 
upon  a  bow  and  quiver  of  arrows  and  a  broad  sword  ,  the  other,  a 
commoner  of  Loo  Choo  dressed  in  blue,  and  likewise  seated  upon 
a  bow  and  arrows.  The  weapons  immediately  attracted  my  atten- 
tion, and  I  inquired  of  my  attendant  what  they  were,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  learning  whether  he  was  acquainted  with  the  use  of  them, 
and  found  that  he  was  by  putting  his  arms  in  the  position  of  draw- 
ing the  bow,  and  by  pointing  to  the  sword  and  striking  his  arm  for- 
ward ;  but  he  implied  that  that  weapon  belonged  to  the  mandarins 
only.  A  great  many  pieces  of  paper  were  suspended  on  each  side 
of  the  picture,  some  of  them  marked  with  Chinese  characters,  and 
were,  no  doubt,  invocations  to  the  deities  for  some  temporary  ben- 
efits, as  all  the  sects  are  in  the  habit  of  writing  inscriptions  of  this 
kind,  and  depositing  them  in  the  jos  houses,  or  placing  them  upon 
stones,  of  which  there  are  several  in  Loo  Choo  under  the  name  of 
Karoo.  Under  a  veranda  which  surrounded  the  temple  there  were 
several  wooden  forms  strewed  with  flowers,  and  upon  the  middle 
one  a  drum  was  suspended  by  thongs  in  a  handsome  jappaned 
stand. 

A  building  in  front  of  this  jos  house,  mentioned  by  Captain  Hall 
lias  been  rebuilt,  but  was  not  quite  finished  at  the  time  of  our  vis- 
it; though  so  near  to  the  temple,  the    panels  were   scrawled  over 


■»  IW 


ado 


VOYAGE  TO    THE  PACIFIC 


[Ma;,, 


;r'\ 


with  groups  of  figures  some  of  which  were  very  inappropriate  to 
such  a  situaf inn. 

After  we  had  partaken  of  tea  in  the  dwelHng-house  we  determin- 
ed  upon  a  walk  in  the  interior,  much  to  the  discomfiture  of  the  old 
gentleman,  who  used  every  means  he  could  think  of  to  induce  us  to 
desist,  and  produced  pipes,  sweet  cakes,  tsha,  and  massa  choiassa, 
preserves  with  which  they  tempted  us  whenever  they  feared  our 
walk  would  he  directed  inland.  Finding  he  could  not  detain  us,  lie 
determined  to  be  our  companion,  and  endeavoured  to  confine  us  to 
the  beach  by  praising  the  freshness  of  the  breeze,  saying  how  hot 
we  should  find  it  inland,  and  what  bad  paths  there  were  in  that  di- 
rection,  every  word  of  which  proved  to  be  false,  as  we  found  the 
roads  very  good,  and  by  gaining  elevated  situations  we  enjoyed  more 
of  the  breeze. 

We  passed  some  tombs  excavated  in  the  cliffs,  and  in  one  that 
was  broken  down  we  discovered  a  corpse  lying  upon  its  back,  half 
decayed  and  covered  over  with  a  mat ;  a  jar  of  tea  and  some  cups 
were  placed  by  it,  that  the  spirit  might  drink  ;  but  there  was  noth- 
ing to  eat,  and  our  guide  informed  us  that  it  was  customary  to  place 
tea  only  by  the  side  of  the  bodies,  and  that  food  was  never  left  there. 
He  turned  us  away  from  this  shocking  spectacle  as  much  disgusted 
as  ourselves,  and  seemed  sorry  that  we  had  hit  upon  it.  This  dis- 
covery seems  to  strengthen  some  information  which  I  afterwards  re- 
ceived concerning  the  manner  in  which  the  dead  were  disposed  of, 
namely,  that  the  flesh  is  allowed  to  decay  before  the  bones  arc  plac- 
ed in  jars  in  the  cemetery. 

From  this  place  we  ascended  a  hill  covered  with  tombs,  which 
were  excavated  in  the  rock  in  a  manner  very  similar  to  those  near 
Canton  ;  they  had  almost  all  of  them  niches,  wherein  bowls  of  tea, 
lamps,  and  cups  were  placed,  and  appeared  to  be  kept  in  good  or- 
der, as  they  had  a  cleanly  and  decent  appearance.  We  wandered 
among  these  some  time,  without  finding  any  open,  but  at  last  we 
came  to  one  of  an  inferior  kind,  in  which  the  door  was  loosely  plac- 
ed before  the  entrance  ;  it  consisted  of  a  large  slab  of  red  pottery, 
pierced  with  a  number  of  holes  about  an  inch  in  diameter.  Having 
removed  this,  we  saw  about  twenty  jars  of  fine  red  pottery  covered 
with  lids  shaped  like  mandarins'  caps;  the  size  ofthejai'S  was  about 
twenty  inches  deep  by  eight  in  the  brodest  part,  which  was  one  t'vid  of 
the  way  from  the  mouth  ;  they  were  also  perforated  in  several  places 
with  holes  an  inch  in  diameter.  We  did  not  remove  any  of  the  lids, 
as  it  seemed  to  give  offence,  but  were  told  that  the  jars  contained  the 
bones  of  the  dead  after  the  flesh  had  been  stripped  off  or  had  de- 
cayed, on  putting  the  question  whether  they  burned  the  bones  or  the 
flesh  off  them,  it  was  answered  by  surprise,  and  an  inquiry  whether 
we  did  so  in  England  ?     Therefore,  unless  the  custom  has  altered, 


, -wi-4. 


m 


# 


* 


ti 


nappropnate  to 


1827.] 


ANT)    BGERINO  S    STIIAIT. 


391 


the  account  of  Supao  Koang,  a  learned  Chinese,  who  visited  Loo 
Ciioo  in  1719,  is  incorrect. 

After  visiting  the  grave  of  one  of  the  crew  of  the  Alceste  who 
was  buried  in  this  island,  we  were  satisfied  with  this  tour  of  the 
tombs,  and  turned  off  inland,  very  much  to  the  discomfiture  of  our 
guide,  and  in  spite  of  a  great  many  remonstrances.  He  was  a  si- 
lent companion  until  we  came  to  a  path  that  went  back  to  the  beach, 
and  there,  politely  stepping  forward,  said  it  was  tiie  one  that  would 
take  us  where  we  wished  to  go,  and,  touching  our  elbow,  he  would 
have  turned  us  into  it  had  he  not  thought  it  rude ;  but  we  pursued 
oiir  original  path,  followed  by  a  crowd  of  persons,  who  seemed  to 
enjoy  the  discomfiture  of  our  companion,  and  laughed  heartily  as  we 
came  to  every  track  that  crossed  ours,  each  of  which  our  officious  and 
polite  conductor  would  have  persuaded  us  to  take,  as  being  far  more 
agreeable  than  the  other,  and  as  leading  to  our  destination.  The 
mirth  of  the  crowd  pretty  well  satisfied  us  there  was  no  great  danger  in 
advancing,  and  we  went  on  further  than  we  should  otherwise  have 
done  ;  but  in  a  little  time  they  began  to  drop  off,  and  we  were  at  last  left 
alone  with  the  guide,  who  really  became  alarmed.  We  had  reach- 
ed the  foot  of  the  hill  on  which  the  capital  is  situated,  and  were  as- 
cending to  have  a  near  view  of  the  houses,  when  he  threw  himself 
on  his  knees  in  evident  alarm,  bowed  his  head  to  the  dust,  embrac- 
ing our  knees  implored  us  to  desist,  assuring  us  that  the  mandrin 
would  take  his  head  off  if  we  did  not.  Some  of  the  officers  who 
went  in  another  direction  were  told  by  their  guide  that  he  would  get 
bambooed  if  they  did  not  turn  back,  which  is  more  probable  than 
that  the  heavy  penalty  apprehended  by  our  companion  should  be 
attached  to  so  light  a  crime. 

To  quiet  the  irritation  of  the  poor  old  man,  who  trembled  vio- 
lently, we  ascended  a  hill  some  distance  to  the  left,  which  com- 
manded an  extensive  view  of  the  country,  and  from  whence  we  could 
survey  the  capital  with  our  telescopes.  The  country  was  highly 
cultivated,  and  the  grounds  irrigated  with  Chinese  ingenuity  and  per- 
severance by  small  streams  of  water  passing  through  them,  keeping 
such  as  were  planted  with  rice  thoroughly  wet.  We  noticed  in  our 
walk  sweet  potatoes,  millet,  wheat,  Indian  corn,  potatoes,  cabbages, 
barley,  sugar-cane,  tea  shrubs,  rice,  taro,  tobacco,  capsicums,  cu- 
cumbers, cocoa  nuts,  carrots,  lettuces,  onions,  plantains,  pomgran- 
ates,  and  oranges ;  but  amidst  this  display  of  agricultural  industry 
there  were  several  eminences  topped  with  pine  trees,  on  which  the 
hand  of  the  farmer  might  have  been  advantageously  employed,  but 
which  were  allowed  to  lie  waste,  and  to  be  overrun  with  a  rank 
grass.  Such  places,  however,  being  usually  the  respositories  of  the 
dead,  it  may  have  been  thought  indecorous  by  the  considerate  Loo 
Chooans  to  disturb  the  ground  near  it  with  a  hoe.     These  eminences, 


\  ]\ 


.•  I 


U( 


.W: 


■>r' 


noa 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[May, 


n 


! 


Li  t 

It 


1^ 


\H 


Pll 


like  the  basis  of  the  island,  bcinp;  formed  of  a  very  porous  cnlca- 
reous  rock,  are  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  excavation  of  tombs,  and 
the  natives  have  taken  ad\  lUtage  of  them  to  dispose  of  their  dead 
in  tlicm. 

The  capital,  for  such  1  am  disposed  to  call  the  town  on  the  JiiH, 
notwithstanding  the  denial  of  several  of  the  natives,  was  surround- 
ed by  a  white  wall,  within  which  there  were  a  great  many  houses, 
and  two  strong  buildings  like  forts  ;  with,  as  already  mentioned,  sev- 
eral small  masts  with  gafls,  bearing  flags  of  different  colours.  This 
space  was  thickly  interspersed  with  trees,  whence  we  conjcctuied 
the  houses  were  furnished  with  gardens.  There  seemed  to  be  very 
few  people  moving  about  the  island,  even  between  the  upper  anil 
lower  towns,  with  which  it  would  be  supposed  there  must  necessa- 
rily be  much  intercourse.  We  rested  awhile  on  the  eminence  that 
afforded  this  agreeable  view  of  a  country  but  very  little  known, 
and  were  joined  by  several  persons  whom  fear  or  indolence  had  pie- 
vented  keeping  pace  vvith  us.  Our  guide  now  lighted  his  pipe  and 
forgot  his  apprehension  in  the  consoling  fumes  of  tobacco,  while 
some  of  the  parly  amused  themselves  with  viewing  the  capital 
through  a  telescoi)e,  each  preventing  the  other  having  a  quiet  view 
by  their  anxiety  to  obtain  a  peep.  Our  clothes  in  the  meantime 
were  undergoing  an  examination  from  the  remainder  of  the  party, 
who,  after  looking  closely  into  the  texture  of  the  material,  ex- 
claimed— choorassa,  choorassa !  (beautiful.) 

While  we  sat  here  a  Japanese  junk  bore  down  from  the  north- 
ward, and  according  to  the  information  of  those  around  us,  which 
afterwards  proved  to  be  correct,  she  came  from  an  island  called 
Ooshimar,  to  the  northward  of  Loo  Choo,  and  was  laden  with  rice, 
hemp,  and  other  articles.  Her  sails  and  rigging  resembled  tlie 
drawing  of  the  Japanese  junks  in  La  Perouse's  voyage.  She  pass- 
ed close  to  the  Blossom  at  anchor,  and  from  the  report  of  the 
officers  her  crew  had  their  heads  shaved  in  the  fashion  of  the 
Japanese.  Her  arrival  excited  general  interest  brought  all  the 
inhabitants  to  the  housetops,  and  a  number  of  canoes  crowded 
round  her  before  she  reached  the  inner  harbour,  where  she  was 
towed  and  secured  alongside  several  other  junks  bearing  the  same 

On  our  return  we  passed  through  a  village  consisting  of  a  num- 
ber of  square  inclosures  of  low  stone  walls,  separated  by  lanes 
planted  on  both  sides,  and  so  overgrown  with  bamboo  and  ratans 
that  we  could  neither  nee  the  houses  nor  the  sky ;  several  handsome 
creepers  entwined  themeselves  round  the  stems  of  these  canes,  and 
a  variety  of  flowers,  some  of  which  were  new  to  us,  exhaled  a  de- 
licious fragrance  from  the  gardens  which  bordered  these  deliglitfiil 
avenues.     A  more  comfortable  residence  in  a  hot  climate  could  not 


'^ 


'M 


1827.] 


AND    UEERING  b    STRAIT. 


39:) 


well  be  imagined,  but  1  am  sorry  to  say  that  the  fascination  was 
gaatly  lessened  by  the  very  filthy  state  of  the  dwellings  and  of 
tlic  people  who  occupied  them.  In  one  of  these  huts  there  was 
a  spinning-wheel  and  a  hand  loom,  with  some  grass-cloth  of  the 
country  in  a  forward  state  of  preparation  for  use. 

Several  little  children  accompanied  us  through  these  delightfully 
cool  lanes,  running  before  us  catching  butterflies,  or  picking  flow- 
ers, which  they  presented  with  a  low  Chinese  salam,  and  then  ran 
away  laughing  at  the  idea  of  our  valuing  such  things.  Wo  after- 
wards crossed  two  high  roads,  on  which  there  were  several  horses 
and  jack-asses  bearing  panniers  ;  but  we  saw  no  carriages,  nor  the 
marks  of  any  wheels,  nor  do  I  believe  there  are  any  in  Loo  Choo. 
The  horses,  like  the  natives,  were  very  diminutive,  and  showed  very 
little  blood.  Several  peasants,  both  male  and  femalo>  were  work- 
ing in  the  plantations  as  we  passed  through  them,  neither  of  whom 
endeavoured  to  avoid  us,  and  we  had  an  opportunity  of  beholding, 
for  the  first  time,several  Loo  Choo  women.  They  were  of  the  labour- 
ing class,and  of  course  not  the  most  attractive  specimens  of  their  sex; 
but  they  were  equally  good-^looking  with  the  men,  and  a  few  of  them 
were  pretty,  notwithstanding  the  assertion  of  An-yah,  that  "  Loo 
Choo  womans  ugly  womans."  There  was  nothing  remarkable  about 
them  to  need  particular  description  5  they  were  clothed  much  in 
the  same  manner  as  the  men,  and  generally  in  the  same  colours  ; 
their  hair,  however,  was  differently  dressed,  being  loosely  fastened 
at  the  side  of  the  head  by  a  pin  resembling  a  salt-spoon  with  a 
very  long  handle.  Their  fee*  were  of  the  natural  size,  and  with- 
out shoes  or  sandals.  We  noticed  some  were  tattooed  on  the 
back  of  the  hand,  which  we  were  told  was  done  to  distinguish  all 
those  who  were  married ;  An-yah  said  the  custom  prevailed  equally 
in  high  life. 

Upon  the  high  road  we  met  a  man  with  a  bundle  of  firewood,  on 
liis  way  to  town ;  and  were  much  pleased  at  the  confirmation  of  a 
fact,  which  we  had  no  doubt  existed,  though  the  natives  took  every 
precaution  to  conceal  it.  None  of  our  visiters  to  the  ship  had  as 
yet  shown  us  any  money,  and  An-yah,  if  I  understood  him  correct- 
iy,  said  there  was  none  in  Loo  Choo  ;  our  meeting  with  this  peas- 
ant, however,  disclosed  the  truth,  as  he  had  a  string  of  cash*  (small 
Chinese  money)  suspended  to  his  girdle,  in  the  manner  adopted  by 
the  Chinese.  I  examined  the  string  with  much  interest,  and  offer- 
ed to  purchase  it  with  Spanish  coin,  but  my  guide  would  not  per- 
mit the  woodman  to  part  with  it,  and  tucking  it  into  his  belt  that  it 
might  not  be  seen  again,  he  said  something  to  him  in  an  angry  tone, 

•  Tiicse  coins  being  of  small  value,  they  are  strung'  together  in  hundreds,  and 
liave  ii  knot  at  each  end,  so  that  it  is  not  necessary  to  count  them, 

50 


f) 


1 


Un. 


304 


VOTACi:    TO    TUB    PACIFIC 


liU«^ 


ll 


and  tlic  poor  fellow  walked  on  with  his  load  to  iho  town.  VVc  af- 
terwards fi;ol  some  of  iliis  money,  which  was  exactly  the  sanio  us 
that  which  is  current  at  Canton,  and  found  that  it  was  also  in  cir- 
culation in  Loo  Choo.  Thouj^h  they  afterwards  adniilted  this  fuel, 
tliey  denied  having  any  silver  or  gold  coin  in  tho  country. 

Our  suhsetjnent  excursions  were  nearly  a  repetition  of  what  lius 
been  descrihed,  and  were  made  nearly  to  tho  same  places,  witii  the 
exception  of  two  or  three,  which  I  shall  describe  hereafter.  In  all 
these  the  san»o  artifice  was  practised  to  induce  us  to  confine  our- 
selves to  the  beach,  and  particularly  to  prevent  a  near  approach  to 
the  villages.  Tobacco,  tsha,  and  chorassa  niasa  were  the  great 
temptations  held  out  to  us ;  but  neither  the  tea,  nor  the  massa,  wliiclij 
by  the  by,  was  seldom  produced,  had  sufficient  charms  to  dissuude 
some  of  our  young  gentleman  from  gratifying  their  curiosity,  though 
it  was  at  the  expcisc  of  the  convenience  of  the  natives,  whose 
dresses  were  very  ill  adapted  to  speed ;  and  thus,  by  outrunnini; 
thom,  they  saw  many  places  which  they  would  not  otherwise  have 
been  permitted  to  enter,  and  got  much  nearer,  to  the  town  than  1 
felt  it  would  be  right  for  me  to  do  in  consequence  of  my  promise 
to  An-yah.  I  shall,  therefore,  give  such  extracts  from  their  jour- 
nals as  are  interesting,  but  in  a  few  pages  in  advance,  that  I  may 
not  disturb  the  order  of  the  narrative. 

On  the  21st,  An-yah  came  off  to  say,  that  the  mandarin  had  ac- 
cepted my  invitation  to  visit  the  ship,  and  would  come  on  board  that 
day  :  we  conse([uently  made  preparation  to  receive  him.  As  it  ap- 
peared to  me  that  Napa-keang  possessed  no  boat  sufficiently  good 
for  so  great  an  occasion,  I  offered  to  send  one  of  ours  to  tho  town 
for  his  accommodation,  which,  in  addition  to  obliging  the  mandarin, 
would  afford  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  place  ;  but  An-yah  would 
not  permit  it,  and  fearful  that  we  might  really  pursue  this  piece  of 
politeness  further,  got  out  of  the  ship  as  fast  as  he  could,  saying  the 
mandarin  was  at  Potsoong,  and  not  in  the  town.  About  two  o'clock 
he  pushed  ofl'  from  that  |)lace  with  his  party  in  two  clumsy  jiunls, 
sculled  by  several  men  singing  a  chorus,  which  differed,  both  in 
words  and  air,  from  that  used  l)y  the  boatmen  in  general.  The 
mandarin  w'as  seated  in  the  largest  of  these  boats,  under  a  wide 
Chinese  umbrella,  w  ith  two  or  three  mandarins  of  inferior  rank  by 
him  ;  the  other  boat  contained  An-yah,  Shtafacoo,  Sandoo,  and  oih- 
t  rs,  with  whom  we  were  well  acquainted,  and  who  rowed  on  before 
the  mandarin,  and  announced  his  approach  by  presenting  a  crimson 
scroll  of  paper,  exactly  a  yard  in  length,  on  which  was  elegantlv 
vrittcn  in  Chinese  characters,  "  Ching-oong-choo,  the  magistrate  I 
of  Napa,  in  the  TjOo  Choo  country,  bows  his'  head  to  the  ground, 
and  pays  a  visit."  By  this  time  the  other  boat  with  the  great  man  I 
was  alongside  the  ship,  and  four  domestics  with  scarlet  hatchee- 


■:if 


\ 


1827.] 


AND    BEERINO  S    STRAIT. 


395 


own.     Wc  af- 

y  the  sanio  as 

rus  also  in  cir- 

Imiitcd  this  fuel, 

Kintry. 

ion  of  what  has 

phiccs,  with  tlie 
lorcafter.     In  all 

to  confine  oui- 
loar  approach  to 

were  the  great 
the  massa,  which, 
arms  to  ilissuiulo 
■curiosity,  though 
le  natives,  whose 
iS,  by   outnuinini; 
Dt  otherwise  have 
the  town  than  I 
;   of   my   promise 
;  from  their  joiir- 
rancc,  that  1  may 


inntchecs  ascended  tlic  side,  one  of  them  hearing  a  hir^e  square 
liatclioe-niatcliou  box,  in  which  llierc  was  an  old  comb.  Thoy  pul- 
led up  the  side  ropes,  and  carefully  iuspecled  then\,  to  see  whether 
they  were  strong  enough  to  hold  their  master,  and  let  them  down 
again  for  the  mandarin,  who,  very  little  accustomed  to  such  (eats, 
ascended  the  side  with  diliiculty. 

He  was  received  with  a  guard  under  arms,  and  a  mandarin's  sa- 
lute was  fired  as  he  put  his  foot  upon  the  deck,  with  which  he  was 
much  gratified,  and  lie  shook  every  officer  by  the  hand  witli  unaf- 
foctcd  pleasure.  The  yards  had  been  manned  as  he  was  coming 
ofl',  and  when  the  pipe  was  given  for  the  seamen  to  come  down, 
the  evolution  produced  a  little  surprise,  and  must  have  impressed 
the  Loo  Chooans  with  the  decided  advantage  of  our  dress  over 
theirs,  where  activity  is  required.  Ojee,  one  of  the  party,  who 
also  styled  himself  Jeema,  and  is  mentioned  by  Captain  Jlall,  fol- 
lowed, and  then  the  rest  of  the  mandarins  iu  yellow  hatchee-mat- 
chees  and  gowns. 

To  persons  who  had  visited  a  fine  English  frigate,  disciplined  by 
one  of  the  ablest  officers  in  the  British  Navy,  the  Blossom  could 
have  presented  nothing  extraordinary ;  and  as  the  greater  part  of 
our  visiters  were  familiar  with  the  Alceste,  they  were  very  little 
interested  in  what  they  saw  ;  but  Ching-oong-choo  had  not  been 
long  from  Pekin,  and  never,  probably,  having  put  his  foot  on  the 
deck  of  a  ship  before,  a  Chinese  junk  excepted,  examined  every 
thing  very  attentively,  and  made  many  inquiries  about  the  guns, 
powder,  and  shot. 

None  of  the  natives  offered  to  seat  themselves  in  the  cabin  in  the 
presence  of  the  mandarin  until  dinner  was  brought  in,  but  they 
then  dispensed  with  formalities,  and  those  who  were  familiar  with 
European  customs  chinchinned  each  other  with  wine,  and  reversed 
their  glasses  each  time,  to  the  great  amusement  of  their  superior. 
During  dinner  the  fate  of  Madera  was  inquired  into,  but  we  got  no 
satisfactory  answer,  and  a  mystery  seemed  to  hang  over  his  fate, 
which  made  us  suspect  he  had  in  some  way  or  other  been  disgraced. 
Jeena  took  the  opportunity  of  showing  he  recollected  his  visit  to 
the  i^Llceste  and  Lyra,  but  he  did  not  make  any  inquiry  after  his 
friencs  in  either  vessel. 

As  we  had  lately  been  at  Canton,  we  were  provided  with  many 
diings  which  were  happily  to  the  taste  of  our  guests,  who  would 
otherwise  have  fared  badly,  as  they  did  not  appear  to  relish  our 
joints  of  meat ;  nor  did  some  bottled  porter  accord  better  with  their 
taste,  for  after  occasioning  many  wry  faces,  it  was  put  aside  as  being 
bitter:  a  flavour  which  1  have  observed  is  seldom  rolislied  for  the 
first  time.  Not  so  some  noyeau,  which  was  well  adapted  to  the 
sweet  palate  of  the  Loo  Chooans ;  nor  some  effervescing  draughts, 


""^■P 


996 


VOYAGE   TO   THE    PACTTlC 


[May, 


■ii 

■fi  J 


'-\ 


which  were  quite  new  to  them,  and  created  considerable  surprise 
They,  however,  seemed  to  enjoy  themselves  a  great  deal ;  were  jo- 
vial without  being  nois\-,  and  with  the  exception  cf  a  dissagreeahlc 
practice  of  eructation,  and  even  worse,  they  were  polite  people; 
though  I  cannot  say  I  approved  of  their  refinement  upon  our  pocket 
handkerchief,  An-yah  often  intimated  to  me  that  he  thought  it 
was  a  disagreeable  practice  to  use  a  handkerchief  and  carry  it  about 
all  day,  and  thought  it  would  be  better  for  us  to  adopt  their  custom 
of  having  a  number  of  square  pieces  of  paper  in  our  pockets  foi- 
this  purpose,  and  one  of  which  could  be  thrown  away  when  it  had 
been  used.  1  did  not  at  first  think  he  was  in  earnest,  and  wlien  1 
observed  my  guests  pocket  these  pieces  of  paper,  1  sent  for  some 
handkerchiefs,  but  they  declined  using  them,  saying  paper  was  much 
better. 

V/hile  we  were  at  dinner  a  large  junk  which  we  had  observed 
taking  in  a  cargo  the  day  before,  was  towed  out  of  the  harbour  by 
an  immense  number  of  boats,  making  the  shores  echo  with  her 
deep-toned  gong.  She  grounded  off  the  entrance  of  the  harbour, 
but  was  soon  got  off  and  placed  outside  the  reefs.  A  more  unwiel- 
dy ark  scarcely  ever  put  to  sea,  and  when  she  rolled,  her  masts 
bent  to  that  degree  that  the  people  on  her  deck  seemed  to  be  in 
imminent  danger  of  their  lives.  She  was  decorated  with  flags  of 
all  sorts  and  sizes ;  at  the  fore  there  was  hoisted  the  white  flag  of 
the  emperor ;  at  the  main,  the  Loo  Choo  colours,  a  triangular  Hag, 
red  and  yelow,  with  a  white  ball  in  it,  denoting,  I  believe,  a  tribu- 
tary state ;  there  were  besides  several  others,  and  a  great  many 
mandarins'flags  upon  staffs  along  the  stem.  Ching-oong  choo  said 
she  was  the  junk  with  tribute  which  was  sent  every  second  year 
from  Loo  Choo  to  Fochien.  Her  cargo,  before  it  was  stowed,  was 
placed  upon  the  wharf  in  square  piles,  with  small  flags  upon  sticks 
stuck  here  and  there  upon  bales  of  goods,  which  were  apparently 
done  up  in  straw  matting :  for  it  was  only  with  our  telescopes  that 
we  were  allowed  to  see  this. 

Aficr  dinner  was  over,  the  mandarin  went  on  shore,  and  begged 
to  have  the  pleasure  of  our  company  to  dinner  at  Potsoor>g  the  next 
day  ;  but  the  rest  of  the  company  obtained  permission  to  stay  and 
enjoy  a  little  more  sackee,  after  which  they  jwcketed  the  remaiivs 
of  the  dessert  as  usual,  and  as  a  token  of  their  friendship,  they  each 
threw  down  their  pipe  and  tobacco-pouch,  and  begged  my  accep- 
tance of  them ;  but  as  I  knew  these  articles  Avere  valuable  in  Loo 
Choo,  and  was  conscious  that  with  some  of  them  rt  was  only  a  mat- 
ter of  form,  I  declined  accepting  them. 

The  next  day  it  rained  heavily,  but  An-yah  came  off  to  keep  us 
to  our  engagement,  saying  the  mandarin  was  at  Potsoong  in  roadi- 
^jcs.s  to  receive  us ;  we  accordingly  went,  and  were  met  at  the  hui- 


^■.\    V\\ 


tl 


[May, 

lerablc  surpvisc, 
t  deal ;  wore  jo- 
f  a  dissagrccal)lc 
e  polite  people ; 
upon  our  pocket 
lat  he  thought  it 
nd  carry  it  about 
opt  their  custom 
f)  our  pockets  fov 
way  when  it  had 
lest,  and  when  1 
•,  1  sent  for  some 
paper  was  much 

je  had  observed 
f  the  harbour  by 
;  echo  with  her 
;e  of  the  harbour, 

A  more  unwiel- 
rolled,  her  masts 
k  seemed  to  be  in 
Eited  with  flags  of 
the  white  flag  of 
,  a  triangular  flag, 
I  believe,  a  tril)u- 
and  a  great  many 
ng-oong  clioo  said 

very  second  year 
t  was  stowed,  was 
|l  flags  upon  sticks 
were  apparently 
|ur  telescopes  that 

^horc,  and  begged 
*otsoor>g  tho  nest 
Ission  to  stay  and 
ieted  the  rcniaiivs 
Indship,  they  each 
legged  my  accep- 
le  valuable  in  Loo 
ft  was  only  a  niat- 

110  ofi'  to  keep  us 
l*otsoong  in  readi- 
le  met  at  the  laii- 


T827.] 


AND  BEERINO7S  STRAIT. 


397 


(ling  place  by  Jeenia  and  a  great  crowd  of  Loo  Chooans,  with  un*- 
brellas,  who  accompanied  us  to  the  house,  where  we  were  received 
l,y  the  mandarin  in  a  most  cordial  and  friendly  manner.  For  con- 
venience both  apartments  were  thrown  into  one,  by  the  removal  of 
shifting  panels,  and  the  servants  were  regaled  upon  the  floor  in  the 
inner  room,  while  we  were  seated  at  a  table  in  tiic  cu:er  apartment. 
Our  table,  which  had  been  made  in  Japan,  was  nicely  lacquered, 
and  had  Chinese  characters  gilt  ujxyn  its  edges  and  down  the  sides 
of  the  legs,  recording  the  date  and  place  where  it  was  made,  as 
nell  as  the  name  of  the  workman,  &c.  It  was  covered  with  disho* 
containing  a  variety  of  eatables,  principally  swcetmrats,  and  two 
sorts  of  spirits,  sackee  and  moo  roo  fa  coo.  The  former  resembles 
the  samscheu  of  China,  and  the  other  is  a  dark  coloured  cordial 
possessing  a  bitter-sweet  taste.  We  were  seated  on  one  side  of  the 
lahle,  myself  in  an  old  fashioned  chair,  and  the  other  oflicers  upoi: 
camp  stools  with  japanned  backs,  and  the  host,  Jeema,and  the  oth- 
er mandarins,  on  the  other  side  ;  and  each  person  was  provided 
with  a  small  enamelled  cup  and  a  saucer  with  a  pair  of  chopsticks 
laid  acioss  it;  the  crowd  all  the  while  surrounding  the  house,  and 
watching  through  its  open  sides  every  motion  we  made.  Pipes  and 
moo  roo  fa  coo  vvcre  first  offered  to  us,  and  then  each  dish  in  suc- 
cession :  of  which  we  partook,  according  to  our  different  tastes,, 
without  being  aware  of  the  Chinese  custom  of  giving  the  sweets 
first  and  reserving  the  substantial  part  of  the  dinner  for  the  last. 

Among  the  dishes,  besides    some   sweet  cakes  made  very  light, 

I  were  different  kinds  of  pastry,  one  of  a  circular  form,  called  Iwnna-' 

\kre"-  another  tied  in  a  knot,  hard  and  dissagrecable,  called  mntzn 

bi,  and  a  third  called  kooming,  which  ei>closed  some  kind  of  fish. 

There  was  also  amamalade,  called  tshecptang,  a  dish  of  hard  boiled 

Icsgs  without  the  shells,  painted   red,  and  a  pickle   whicli  was  used 

instead  of  salt,  called  dzccseckedakoonee  ;  Ijesides  a  small  dish  of 

1  sliced  cold  liver  called  watshaingo,   which  in  this  course  was  the 

nly  meat  upon  the  table.     We  ate  more  plentifully  of  these  sweet 

I  tilings  than  we  liked,  in  consequence  of  our  ignorance  of  what  was 

to  follow,  and  partly  from  our  not  being  aware  that  their  politeness 

prevented  them  from  sending  away  any  dish  as  long  as  we  could  be 

puvailed  upon  to  partake  of  it — a  feeling  which  induced  them  cou- 

liniially  to  press  us  to  eat,  and   offer  us  part  of  every  dish  on  the 

end  of  il'oir  chopsticks.     The  next  course  induced  us  to  regret  that 

we  bad  not  made  the  taste  more  a  matter  of  form,  for  it  consisted 

j  of  several  good  dishes,  such  as  roast  jwrk,  hashed  fowls,  and  vcr- 

inicelli  pudding,  &ic.     After  these  were  removed  tiioy  brought  ha- 

jiiis  of  rice,  but  seeing  we  would  eat  no  more,  they  ordered  the 

wliole  to  be  taken  away. 

During  the  whole  time  wo  were  closely  plied  with  sackee  iin 


'  m 


'M 


1  • 


:>f 


M 


i\U>, 


W-  4' 


398 


VOYAGE  TO    THE  PACIFIC 


n 


{May, 

stnoU  o[»aque  wine  glasses,  which  held  about  a  thimblefuU,  and 
were  coinpelled  to  follow  the  example  of  our  host  and  iurn  our 
glasses  down  :  but  as  this  spirit  was  of  a  very  ardent  nature,  I  be"-- 
ged  to  be  allowed  to  substitute  port  and  madeira,  whicJi  was  readi- 
ily  granted,  and  we  became  more  on  a  footing  with  our  hosts,  who 
seemed  to  think  that  hospitality  consisted  in  making  every  person 
take  more  than  they  liked,  and  argued  that,  as  they  had  been  in- 
toxicated on   board,  we  ought  to  become  so  on  shore. 

After  dinner  was  removed,  Jeema  favoured  us  with  t^vo  soni's 
which  were  very  passable,  and  much  to  the  taste  of  the  Loo  Choo- 
ans,  who  seemed  to  enjoy  them  very  much.  Nothing  could  exceed 
the  politeness  and  hospitality  of  the  mandarin  throughout,  who  be». 
ged  that  dinner  might  be  sent  off  to  one  of  the  officers,  whose 
health  would  not  permit  him  to  risk  a  wetting,  and  that  all  the  boats 
crews  might  be  allowed  to  come  to  the  house  and  partake  of  the 
feast.  Though  there  was  a  little  ceremony  in  receiving  and  seat- 
ing us,  yet  that  almost  immediately  wore  off  and  Ching  oong  choo 
to  make  eery  person  at  his  ease  took  off  his  hatcee-matchee,  and 
witii  the  rest  of  the  mandarins  sat  without  it.  By  this  piece  of  po- 
liteness we  discovered  that  his  hair  wns  secured  on  the  top  of  the 
head  by  a  gold  hair  pin,  called  liamcsach"  ..he  first  and  the  only  one ! 
we  saw  made  of  that  precious  meta'. 

\V^e  afterwards  took  a  short  walk  *.  fAi<.  »:,arden,  when  1  was  sur-| 
prised  to  find  An-yah  and  '^htafacoo  in  the  dress  and  hatchee-match- 
ee  of  mandarins  of  the  second  class  :  whether  this  was  intenuud  as  I 
a  trick,  or,  following  Madera's  example,  they  preferred  making  their  I 
first  aquaintance  in  disguise,  is  not  very  clear ;  but  as  they  both  I 
possesed  a  great  deal  of  influence,  and  were  much  respected  by  tlief 
lower  orders  of  the  inhabitants,  it  was  probably  their  proper  dress. 

As  soon  as  Ching-oon-choo  permitted  us,  we  took  our  leave,  audi 
were  accompanied  to  the  boat  by  a  great  crowd  of  persons,  whol 
opened  a  passage  as  we  proceeded,  and  were  officially  anxious  tol 
be  useful  in  some  way  or  other ;  and  we  then  parted  with  Jeemal 
and  the  rest  amidst  the  greetings  and  salutations  of  hundreds  on 
voices. 

On  the  21st,  one  of  the  officers  made  an  excursnin  (c  the  soul 
ward  of  Abbey  Point,  and  was  attended  asusui-'  '  >'  <  r  .i<cour.soi)f| 
of  boys  and  young  men,  who  were  extremely  [.  lir   :::,v  •  ospectllil.l 
They  used  every  artifice  and  pers::asion  to  detei  !i  a  {•  ^h\  |uocecil-[ 
ing,  said  they  were  tired,  tempted  him  with  tsha,  and  ;'("-'  red  that! 
they  were  hungry,  but  he  ingeniously  silenced  the  latter  c  ijiiplaiid 
by  offering  his  guide  a  piece  of  bread  which  he  had  in  hi .  basket. 
It  was  thankfully  accepted,  but  with  a  smile  at  the  artifice   iiavinjl 
failed.     At  a  village  called  A.seemee  he  surprised  two  femalos  stand-] 
ing  at  a  well  filling  their  pitchers ;  they  scrutinized  him  for  soiiioj 
time,  and  then  ran  ofi"  to  their  homes. 


1827.] 


AND    BEERING  S  STRAIT, 


399 


irs'sii-.i  ic  the  south- 
.,-  u  r^ pHCOursc ofl 
Vu    ;';.f-  ■ospectfull 
ii  ;,  D-  i- juMU-occal- 
Land4»('^''reiltlialj 
[he  latter  t  nn\M\\i 
hiul  in  hi:,  basket.! 
the  artifice  ImvinJi 
ll  two  females  stand- 
Ized  him  for  soiiioj 


The  village  contained  about  fifty  houses ;   and  was  almost  hid 
from  view  by  a  screen  of  trees,  among  which  were  recognised  the 
acacia,  the  porou  of  the  South  Seas,  and  the  hibiscus  rosa  sinensis, 
but  the  greater  part  of  the  others  appeared  to  be  new  ;  they  formed 
a  lively  green  wood,  and  gave  the  village  an  agreeable  aspect.      In 
one  of  the  cottages  a  boy  of  about  six  years  of  age  was  seated  at  a 
niacliine  made  of  bamboo  resembling  a  small  Scotch  muckle  wheel, 
spinning  some  very  fine  cotton   into  a  small  thread.      Though  so 
joung,  he  appeared  to  be  quite  an  adept  at  his  business,  and  was 
not  the  least  embarrassed  at  the  approach  of  the  strangers.    A  quan- 
tity of  thread  ready  spun  lay  in  the  house ;  there  was  a  loom  close 
by,  and  some  newly  manufactured  cloth,  which  appeared  to  have 
been  recently  dyed,  was  extended  to  dry  outside  the  house.     Near 
iliis  cottage  there  were  broken  parts  of  a  mill,  wliich  indicated  the 
use  of  those  machines,  and  circular  marks  on  the  earth,  showing  that 
ihis  one  had  been  worked  by  cattle.     About  a  mile  and  a  half  to 
the  southward  of   Abbey  Point,  near  a  steep  wooded  eminence, 
which  we  christened  Wood  Point,  there  was  another  village  named 
Oofoomee,  iI:'*ough  which  Mr.  Collie  passed,  preceded  by  his  guide, 
who  warned  the  lemale  part  of  the  inhabitants  of   his  approach  in 
order  that  they  might  get  out  of  his  way      His  guide  was  delighted 
when  he  directed  his  steps  toward  the  ship,  as  he  was  very  tired, 
and  even  had  a  horse  brought  to  him  before  he  got  to  the  beach. 
This  animal  was  eleven  hands  and  a  half  in  height,  and  would 
hardly  have  kept  a  moderately  tall  person's  feet  off  the  ground ; 
but  his  guide,  though  there  was  not  much  necessity  for  bracing  his 
feet  up  very  high,  obviated  the  possibility  of  this  inconvenience  by 
riding  with  his  knees  up  to  his  breast.      The  stirrups  were  massy, 
and  made  of  iron  curiously  inlaid  with  brasi,  and  shaped  something 
like  a  clumsy  Chinese  shoe.     At  Abbey  Point  he  visited  some  sep- 
ulchres hewn  out  of  the  rock  or  formed  of  natural  caverns  ;  one  of 
these  happened  to  be  partly  open,  and  he  discovered  four  large  red 
earthen  jars,  one  of  which   was  fortunately  broken,  and  exhibited 
its  contents,  consisting  of  bones  of  the  human  skeleton. 

hi  another  excursion  made  by  this  gentleman  io  the  north-east 
of  Potsoong,  he  visited  a  temple  of  Budh,  situated  in  a  romantic 
copse  of  trees.  The  approach  to  it  was  along  a  path  paved  with 
coral  slabs,  pardy  overgrown  with  grass,  and  under  an  archv.ay  in 
the  formation  of  which  art  had  materially  assisted  the  hand  of  na- 
ture. After  resting  a  short  time  in  this  romantic  situation  he  de- 
scended the  paved  way,  passed  sc-me  tall  trees,  {»mong  which  was  a 
species  of  erethrim  of  large  grov/th,  and  arrived  at  the  house  of 
a  priest,  who  invited  him  to  sine Ke  and  partake  of  tea  and  rice. 
Three  young  boys  were  in  tl:c  House,  who,  as  well  as  the  priest. 


J; 


r0 


?'!•*■.'       I* 


'.  /I 


400 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[May, 


n' 


-1      .7^1 

f  til  Mm 

'•       '     I    i  la.'  I 


liaci  their  heads  shaved  according  to  the  custom  of  tlic  priestliood 
ill  China. 

By  the  25th  May,  we  had  completed  the  survey  of  the  port,  re- 
plenished our  water,  received  a  little  fresh  stock,  and  obtained  some 
interesting  astronomical  and  magnetical  observations;    '.he  day  of  I 
departure  was  consequently  near  at  hand.     This  event,  after  wlijch 
many  anxious  inquiries  were  made   by  the  natives,  was,  I  believe 
generally  contemplated  with  pleasure  on  both  sides  ;    not  that  we 
felt  careless  about  parting  with  our  friends,  but  we  could  not  enjoy 
their  society  without  so  many  restrictions,  and  wo  were  daily  ex- 
posed to  the  temptation  of  a  beautiful  country  without  the  liberty 
of  exploring  it,  that  our  situation  very  soon  became  extremely  irk- 
some.    The  day  of  our  departure,  therefore,  we  hailed  with  j)leas- 
iire,  not  only  by  ourselves,  but  by  those  to  whom  the  troublesome  I 
and  fatiguing  duty  had  been  assigned  of  attending  upon  our  ino- 
'tions :  and  they  must  moreover  have  looked  with  suspicion  on  the! 
operations  of  the  survey  that  were   daily  going  forward,  even  had 
they  not  suspected  our  motives  for  putting  into  their  port. 

1  was  very  anxious  before  this  day  arrived  to  possess  a  set  of  the  | 
pins  that  are  worn  by  the  natives  in  their  hair.  From  their  con- 
duct it  appeared  that  these  ornaments  had  some  other  value  at- 
tached to  them  than  that  ci'  their  intrinsic  worth,  or  there  would  I 
not  have  been  so  much  difficulty  in  procuring  them.  Seeing  tlieyj 
set  so  much  value  upon  them  that  none  of  the  natives  could  be  I 
induced  to  part  with  them,  I  begged  An-yah  would  acquaint  tliel 
mandarin  with  my  desire,  and,  if  possible,  that  he  would  procure  I 
me  a  set.  An-yah  replied  that  he  would  certainly  deliver  my  mes- 
sage to  the  mandarin, and  the  next  morning  brought  a  set  of  the  most! 
inferior  kind,  made  of  brass.  As  the  mandarin  had  received  somel 
liberal  presents  from  me,  I  observed  to  An-yah  that  this  conductl 
was  ungenerous,  and  that  I  expected  a  set  made  of  silver ;  his  opiii-j 
ion  he  said  very  much  coincided  with  mine,  and  added  that  he  wouldl 
endeavour  to  have  them  changed,  but  the  following  morning  liel 
met  me  on  shore,  and  said,  "  Mandarin  very  bad  man,  no  give  youj 
silver  kamesache  :"  but  An-yoh,  determined  that  my  request  sliouldl 
be  comj)lied  with,  had  by  some  means  succeeded  in  procuring  asetl 
for  me,  which  he  presented  in  his  own  name.  I  rewarded  his  gcn-I 
erous  behaviour  by  making  him  a  present  of  some  cut  glass  decan-j 
ters  and  wine  glasses,  which  are  more  esteemed  in  Loo  Choo  eveiii 
than  a  telescope. 

On  the  27th  we  made  preparations  for  weighing,  by  hoisting  oiiri 
sails,  and  An-yah,  Shtafacoo,  and  Shayoon,  who  had  been  our  con- 
stant attendants,  came  off  to  take  leave.     These  good  people  li 
been  put  to  much  trouble  and  anxiety  on  our  account,  and  had  so| 
ingratiated  themselves  with  us,  that,  as  the  ir.oment  approached. 


■•^ 


[May,  ■  1827.] 


AND    BEEKING  !>    STIIAIT. 


401 


the  priesthood 

f  of  the  port,  re- 
nd obtained  some 
)ns ;    *.hc  day  of 
3vent,  after  wliicli 
3,  was,  1  believe, 
es  ;    not  that  we  | 
3  could  not  enjoy  | 
^  were  daily  ex- 
Ithout  the  liberty 
ne  extremely  irk- 
hailed  with  pleas- 1 
I  the  troublesome  I 
ng  upon  our  nio- 
i  suspicion  on  the  I 
forward,  even  had] 
leir  port. 

possess  a  set  of  tliej 
From  their  con- 
le  other  value  at- 1 
th,  or  there  would  I 
lem.     Seeing  they 
!  natives  could  be  I 
Lvould  acquaint  the! 
he  would  procure 
ily  deliver  my  uies-l 
,ht  a  set  of  the  mostl 
had  received  somej 
that   this  conductj 
of  silver ;  his  opin- 
idded  that  he  wouldl 
[owing  morning  liel 
man,  no  give  youl 
my  request  shouldl 
in  procuring  a  set! 
rewarded  his  gcn-j 
._e  cut  glass  decan-| 
in  Loo  Choo  eveiil 

Ing,  by  hoisting  ourj 

had  been  our  con-l 

3  good  people  \m 

count,  and  had  so 

fent  appi'oached,  I 


really  believe  the  desire  for  our  departure  was  proportionably  less- 
ened ;  and  when  the  day  arrived,  they  testified  their  regret  in  a 
warm  but  manly  manner,  shook  us  heartily  by  the  hand,  and  each 
gave  some  little  token  of  regard,  which  they  begged  us  to  keep  in 
remembrance  of  them.  As  we  moved  from  the  anchorage,  the  in- 
habitants assembled  on  the  house-tops,  as  before,  upon  the  tombs, 
in  the  forts,  and  upon  every  place  that  would  afford  them  a  view  of 
our  operations,  some  waving  umbrellas  and  others  fans. 

Having  brought  to  a  conclusion  the  sketch  of  our  visit  to  Loo 
Choo,  I  intend  in  the  few  pages  that  follow  to  embody  what  other 
information  was  coUef-ted  from  time  to  time,  and  to  offer  a  few  re- 
marks on  the  state  of  the  country  as  we  found  it,  as  compared  with 
that  which  has  been  given  by  Captain  Hall  and  the  late  Mr.  M'Leod, 
surgeon  of  the  Alceste.  In  the  foregoing  narrative  I  have  avoided 
entering  minutely  into  a  description  of  the  manners  and  persons 
of  the  inhabitants ;  and  I  have  omitted  several  incidents  and  an- 
ecdotes of  the  people,  as  being  similar  to  those  which  have  al- 
ready been  given  in  the  delightful  publications  above  mentioned. 

Loo  Choo  has  always  been  said  to  be  very  populous,  particular- 
ly the  southern  districts,  and  we  saw  nothing  in  that  part  of  the 
island  which  could  induce  us  to  doubt  the  assertion.  On  the  con- 
trary, the  number  of  villages  scattered  over  the  country,  and  the 
crowds  of  persons  whom  we  met  whenever  we  landed,  amply  tes- 
tified the  justness  of  the  observation.  We  were,  certainly,  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  capital,  and  at  the  principal  seaport  town  of  the  is- 
land ;  but,  in  forming  our  estimate  of  the  population,  it  must  be 
borne  in  mind  that  we  were  very  likely  to  underrate  its  amount,  in 
I  consequence  of  the  greater  number  of  persons  who  crowd  into 
Chinese  towns  than  reside  in  villages  of  the  same  size  in  countries 
from  which  we  have  taken  our  standard. 

The  people  are  of  very  diminutive  stature,  and  according  to  our 
estimation  their  average  height  does  not  exceed  five  feet  five  inches. 
As  might  be  expected,  from  the  Loo  Chooans  being  descendants  of 
the  Japanese,  and  numerous  families  from  China  having  settled  in 
the  island,  there  is  a  union  of  the  disposition  and  of  the  manners, 
as  well  as  of  the  features  of  both  countries.  Tlie  better  classes 
seemed  by  their  features  to  be  allied  to  the  Chinese,  and  the  lower 
orders  to  the  Japanese  ;  but,  in  each,  the  manners  of  both  countries 
may  be  traced.  Their  mode  of  salutation,  their  custom  of  putting 
lo  their  foreheads  any  thing  that  is  given  to  them,  their  paper 
pocket  handkerchiefs,  and  some  parts  of  their  dress,  are  peculiarly 
Japanese.  In  other  respects  they  resemble  the  Chinese.  The 
hatchee-matchee  and  the  hair-pins  are,  I  believe,  confined  to  their 
own  country,  though  smaller  metal  hair-pins  are  worn  by  the  ladies 

51 


^'^■i 


.v>  ( 


U 


•^w^w^w^^tmm^ 


402 


VOYAGE  TO  TIE  PACIFIC 


[MmjA 


li 


X 


Urn 


of  Japan.*     On  the  whole  they  appear  to  be  a  more  amiable  peo- 
ple than  either  the  Chinese  or  Japanese,  though  they  are  not  with- 
out  the  vices  natural  to  mankind,  nor  free  from  those  which  chaiac-l 
terise  the  inhabitants  of  the  above   mentioned  countries.     Theyl 
have  all  the  politeness,  affability,  and   ceremony  of   the   Chinese  I 
with  more  honesty  and  ingenuousness  than  is  generally  possessedj 
by  those  people  ;  and  they  are  less  warlike,  cruel,  and  obsequiousj 
than  the  Japanese,  and  perhaps  less  suspicious  of  foreigners  thanl 
those  people  appear  to  be.     In  their  intercourse  with  foreigners  tiieir] 
conduct  appears  to  be  governed  by  the  same  artful  policy  as  thatl 
of  both  China  and  Japan,  and  we  found  they  would  likewise  some- 
times condescend  to  assert  an  untruth  to  serve  their  purpose ;  andl 
so  apparent  was  this  deceitfulness,  that  some  among  us  were  ledl 
to  impute  their  extreme  civility,  and  their  generosity  to  strangers,[ 
to  impure  motives.     They  are  exceedingly  timorous  and  effeminate  I 
so  much  so  that  I  can  fancy  they  would  be  induced  to  grant  ahnost| 
any  thing  they  possess  rather  than  go  to  war ;  and  as  one  of 
officers  justly  observes  in  his  journal,  had  a  party  insisted  upon  en- 
tering the  town,  they  would  probably  have  submitted  in  silence,! 
treated  them  with  the  greatest  politenes-,  and  by  some  pluasiblel 
pretext  have  got  rid  of  them  as  soon  as  they  could. 

They  appear  to  be  peaceable  and  happy,  and  the  lower  orders! 
to,  be  as  free  from  distress  as  those  of  any  country  that  we  know] 
of ;  though  we  met  several  men  working  in  the  fields  who  were  in 
rags,  and  nearly  naked.  The  most  striking  peculiarity  of  the  peo 
pie  is  the  excessive  politeness  of  even  the  lowest  classes  of  inhab 
itants :  on  no  account  would  they  willingly  do  any  thing  disagreeaJ 
ble  to  a  stranger,  and  when  compelled,  by  higher  authorities  than 
themselves,  to  pursue  a  certain  line  of  conduct,  they  did  it  in  the 
manner  that  was  the  least  likely  to  give  offence  ;  and  it  was  quitel 
laughable  to  notice  the  fertility  of  their  invention  in  order  to  obtain 
this  end,  which  was  seldom  gained  without  a  sad  sacrifice  of  integJ 
rity.  Their  reluctance  to  receive  remuneration  for  their  trouble,  oJ 
for  the  provisions  which  they  supply  to  foreigners,  is  equally  rej 
markable.  Captain  Broughton  and  Captain  Hall  have  noticeq 
their  conduct  in  this  respect.  In  the  case  of  a  whale  ship  whica 
put  into  Napa-keang  >n  1826,  and  received  nearly  two  dozen  bul] 
locks  and  other  supp.ies,  the  only  remuneration  they  would  receivi 
was  a  map  of  the  world.  And  in  our  own  instance  (though  wJ 
managed  by  making  presents  to  the  mandarins  and  to  the  people  I 
prevent  their  being  losere  by  their  generosity,)  An-yah's  reply  td 
my  question,  whether  we  should  pay  for  the  supplies  we  receive] 
in  money  or  goods  ?  was,  *'  Mandarin  give  you  plenty,  no  vvant  nay,  1 

♦  See  Langadorff's  Travels,  vol.  ii. 


•Tt 


1 


4' 


m 


[A/f.i/,Hld'i7.J 


AND    BEKKINO  b    STRAIT. 


403 


But  with  all  this  pohteness,  as  is  the  case  with  the  Chinese,  they 
laniiot  be  said  to  be  a  poHshed  people. 

Our  means  of  judging  of  their  education  were  very  limited  :  a 
Jfew  only  of  the  lower  orders  cculd  read  the  Chinese  characters, 
jiod  still  fewer  were  acquainted  with  the  Chinese  pronunciation  ; 
leven  among  the  better  classes  there  were  some  who  were  ignorant 
lof  both.  Schools  appear  to  have  been  established  in  Loo  Choo  as 
hr  back  as  the  reign  of  Chun-tine,  about  the  year  1 187,  when  char- 
licters  were  introduced  into  the  country,  and  the  inhabitants  began 
I  read  and  write.  These  characters  were  said  to  be  the  same  as 
lihose  of  the  Japanese  alphabet  yrofa.*  In  the  year  1372,  other 
Ischools  were  established,  and  the  Chinese  character  was  substituted 
Ifor  that  of  the  Japanese ;  rind  about  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth 
Itentury,  when  the  Mantchur  dynasty  became  fixed  upon  the  throne 
lof  China,  the  Emperor  Kang-hi  built  a  college  in  Loo  Choo  for 
lihe  instruction  of  youth,  and  for  making  them  familiar  with  the 
IChinese  character.  An-yah  intimated  that  schoolmasters  had  re- 
liently  been  sent  there  from  China  ;  and  one  day  while  I  was  ma- 
lting some  observations,  several  boys  who  were  noticed  among  the 
Icrowd  with  books,  and  who  seemed  proud  of  being  able  to  read  the 
ICliinese  characters,  were  pointed  out  by  An-yah  as  being  the  schol- 
|irs  of  those  people, 

I  am  of  opinion  tljat  the  inhabitants  of  Loo  Choo  have  no  writ- 
len  character  in  use  which  can  properly  be  called  their  own,  but 
liliat  they  express  themselves  in  that  which  is  strictly  Chinese. 
Ift'e  certainly  never  saw  any  except  that  of  China  during  our  resi- 
lience in  the  country.  The  manuscripts  which  I  brought  away  with 
|iii(  were  all  of  the  same  character  precisely,  and  some  were  writ- 
by  persons  who  did  not  know  that  I  was  more  familiar  with  the 
|Chinese  character  than  with  any  other. 

It  is  very  probable  that  the  Japanese  character  was  in  use  for- 
Imerly ;  but  it  is  now  so  long  since  schools  have  been  established  in 
ILoo  Choo  for  teaching  the  Chinese  character,  viz.  since  1372,  and 
lihe  Chinese,  whose  written  character  is  easier  to  learn  than  the 
lotlier,  have  always  been  the  favourite  nation  of  the  Loo  Choo  peo- 
Iple,  that  it  is  very  probable  the  Japanese  characters  may  now  be 
lobsolete.  An-yah  would  give  us  no  information  on  this  subject, 
loor  would  he  bring  us  any  of  the  books  which  were  in  use  in  Loo 
IChoo,  One  which  I  saw  in  the  hands  of  a  boy  at  Abbey  Point 
lippeaied  to  be  written  in  Chinese  characters,  which  are  so  dif- 
Iferent  from  those  of  the  Japanese  that  they  may  be  readily  de- 
flected. 
M.  Grosifr  on  this  subject,  quoting  the  Chinese   authors,  says 

*  Recucil  de  Pere  Gaubil. 


i-d 


^'1 


' 


404  voYAOi:  TO  TUii  I'ACiFic  l-^iuv 

that  letters,  accounts,  and  the  king's  proclamations  are  written  in 
Japanese  characters  ;  and  hooks  on  morality,  history,  medicine,  as- 
tronomy,  &ic.  in  those  of  Cliina.  One  of  the  authors  whom  ho 
quotes  adds,  that  the  priests  tliroughout  the  kingdom  have  schools 
for  teaching  the  youth  to  read  according  to  the  precepts  of  the  Jan. 
anese  alphabet  Y-ro-fa,  As  we  may  presume  they  teach  morality 
in  these  schools,  it  would  follow,  as  books  on  those  subjects  are  all 
written  in  Chinese  characters,  that  the  boys  must  be  taught  both 
languages ;  but,  had  this  been  the  case,  1  think  we  should  have 
seen  the  Japanese  character  written  by  gome  of  them.  It  is  to  be 
observed,  that  the  invocations  in  the  temples  and  on  the  kao-roo 
stones  are  all  in  the  character  of  China. 

While  upon  this  subject,  I  must  observe,  that  the  idea  of  Mons. 
P.  S.  Du  Ponceau,*  "  that  the  meaning  of  the  Chinese  characters 
cannot  be  understood  alike:  in  the  different  languages  in  which  they 
are  used,"  is  not  strictly  correct,  as  we  found  many  Loo  Ciioo  peo- 
ple who  understood  the  meaning  of  the  character,  which  was  the 
same  with  them  as  with  the  Chinese,  but  who  could  not  give  us 
the  Chinese  pronunciation  of  the  word.  And  this  is  an  answer  to 
another  observation  which  precedes  that  above  mentioned,  viz.  that, 
"  as  the  Chinese  characters  are  in  direct  connexion  with  the  Chinese 
spoken  words,  they  can  only  be  read  and  understood  by  those  who 
are  familiar  with  the  spoken  language."  The  Loo  Choo  words  for 
the  same  things  are  difFerent  from  those  of  the  Chinese,  the  one 
being  often  a  monosyllabic,  and  the  other  a  polysyllable ;  as  in  the 
instance  of  charcoal,  the  Chinese  word  for  it  being  tan,  and  tlie  Loo 
Chooan  cha-ehec-jing,  and  yet  the  people  use  precisely  the  same 
character  as  the  Chinese  to  express  this  word ;  and  so  far  from  its 
being  necessary  to  be  familiar  with  the  language  to  understand  the 
characters,  many  did  not  know  the  Chinese  words  for  them.  Their 
language  throughout  is  very  different  from  that  of  the  Chinese,  and 
much  more  nearly  allied  to  the  Japanese.  The  observation  of  M, 
Klaproth,  in  Archiv  fur  Asiatische  Lilteratur,  p.  152,  that  the  Loo 
Choo  language  is  a  dialect  of  the  Japajjese  with  a  good  deal  of 
Chinese  introduced  into  it,  appears  to  be  perfectly  correct,  from  the 
inforniation  of  some  gentlemen  who  have  compared  the  two,  and 
are  familiar  with  both  languages,  The  vocabulary  of  Lieutenant 
Clifford,  which  we  found  very  correct,  will  at  any  time  afford  the 
ipeans  of  making  this  comparison. 

The  inhabitatns  of  Loo  Choo  are  very  curious  on  almost  all  sub- 
jects, and  seem  very  desirous  of  information ;  but  we  were  wholly 

♦  See  n  k'Ucr  from  tliis  peiitlcinan  to  Captain  Busil  Hall,  R.  N.   published  in  tlio 
AmiuU  of  Pliilosopliy  for  Jiuiuary,  1829. 


.■*^m. 


.■■■,»«■■ 


\&iT.] 


AM)    BKEKINU  »    STllAIT. 


405 


N.   published  ill  tin 


unable  to  judge  of  their  proficiency  in  any  subject,  in  conseijuence 
of  the  great  disadvantages  under  which  we  visited  their  country. 

Like  the  Japanese,  they  have  always  shown  a  determination  to 
resist  the  attempts  of  Europeans  to  trade  with  then),  partly,  no 
doubt,  in  consequence  of  orders  to  that  efTect  from  China,  and  partly 
from  their  own  timidity  ;  and  whenever  a  foreign  vessel  arrives  it  is 
their  policy  to  keep  her  in  ignorance  of  their  weakness,  by  confin- 
ing the  crew  to  their  vessel,  or,  if  they  cannot  do  that,  within  a 
limited  walk  of  the  beach,  and  through  such  places  only  as  will 
not  enlighten  them  on  this  point ;  and  also  to  supply  her  with 
what  she  requires,  in  order  that  she  may  have  no  pretext  for  re- 
maining. 

Mr.  Collie  in  his  journal  has  given  a  phrenological  description  of 
the  heads  of  several  Loo  Chooans  which  he  examined  and  measur- 
ed, in  which  proportions  he  thinks  the  lovers  of  that  science  will  find 
much  that  is  in  accordance  with  the  character  of  the  people.  The 
article,  I  am  sorry  to  say,  is  too  long  for  insertion  here,  and  I  only 
mention  the  circumstance  that  the  information  may  not  be  lost. 

We  had  but  few  opportunities  of  seeing  any  of  the  females  of 
this  country,  and  those  only  of  the  vvork'.ng  class.  An-yah  said 
they  were  ugly,  and  told  us  we  might  judge  of  what  they  were  like 
from  the  lower  orders  which  we  saw.  They  dressed  their  hair  in 
the  same  manner  as  those  people,  and  were  free  from  the  Chinese 
custom  of  modelling  their  feet. 

The  Loo  Choo  people  dress  extremely  neat,  and  always  appear 
cleanly  in  their  persons  ;  they  observe  tlie  Chinese  custom  of  going, 
bareheaded,  and  when  the  sun  strikes  hot  upon  their  skulls,  they 
avert  its  rays  with  their  fans,  which  may  be  considered  part  of  the 
dress  of  a  Loo  Chooan.  In  wet  weather  they  wear  cloaks  and 
broad  hats  similar  to  those  of  the  Japanese,  and  exchange  their 
straw  sandals  for  wooden  clogs.  They  have  besides  umbrellas  to 
protect  them  from  the  rain.  Of  their  occupations  we  could  not 
I  judge  :  it  was  evident  that  there  were  a  great  many  agriculturists 
among  them,  and  many  artizans,  as  they  have  various  manufactures, 
of  which  I  shall  speak  hereafter. 

They  appear  to  be  very   temperate  in  their  meals,  and  indulge 

Illy  in  tea,  sweatmeats,  and  tobacco,  of  which  they  smoke  a  great 
(|uantity ;  it  is,  however,  of  a  very  mild  quality  and  pleasant  flavour. 
Their  pipes  are  very  short,  and  scarcely  hold  half  a  thimbleful ;  this 
is  done  that  they  may  be  the  oftener  replenished,  in  order  to  enjoy 
the  flavour  of  fresh  tobacco,  which  is  considered  a  luxury. 

For  further  information  on  the  manners,  the  dress,  and  minor 
points  of  interest  belonging  to  these  people,  I  must  refer  to  the 
publications  of  Captain  Hall  and  i\Ir.  Maclcod,  who  have  so  interes- 
liiigly  described   all  the  little  Uaiis  of  character  of  the  simple   lioo 


t 


<    f  ' 


<'K^  5 


'h 


i\\ 


(IIP 


u 


406 


voyAuu  TO  TUii:  pacific 


[May, 


Cliooaiis,  and  who  Imve  pourtrayed  their  conduct  with  so  niucli  spir- 
it,  good  feeling,  and  minuteness.  These  descriptions,  though  they 
have  been  a  little  overdrawn  from  the  impulse  of  grateful  recollec- 
tions, from  the  ignorance  in  which  the  authors  were  kept  by  tlic 
cautious  inhabitants,  and  from  their  desire  to  avoid  giving  oHence, 
by  pushing  their  inquiries  as  far  as  was  necessary  to  enable  thenj  to 
form  a  correct  judgment  upon  many  thin^  ■;,  are  upon  the  whole, 
very  complete  representations  of  the  people. 

The  supposition  that  the  inhabitants  of  Loo  Choc  possessed  no 
weapons,  offensive  or  otherwise,  naturally  excited  surprise  in  Eng- 
land, and  the  circumstance  became  one  of  our  chief  objects  of  in- 
quiry.    I  cannot  say  the  result  of  the  investigation  was  as  satisfac- 
tory as  I  could  have  wished,  as  we  never  saw  any  weapon  whatev- 
er in  use,  or  otherwise,  in  the  island  :  and  the  supposition  of  their 
existence  rests  entirely  upon  the  authority  of  the  natives,  and  upon 
circumstantial   evidence.     The   mandarin    Ching-oong-choo,  and 
several  other  persons,  declared  there  were  both  cannon  and  muskets 
in  the  island :  and   An-yah  distinctly  stated  there  were  twenty-six 
of  the  former  distributed  among  their  junks.*     We  were  disposed 
to  believe  this  statement,  from  seeing  the  fishermen,  and  all  classes 
at  Napa,  so  familiar  with  the  use  and  exercise  of  our  cannon,  and 
particularly  sc  from  their  appreciating  the  improvement  of  the  flint 
lock  upon  that  of  the  match  lock,  which  I  understood  from  the  na- 
tives to  be  in  use  in  Loo  Choo  ;  and  unless  they  possessed  these  locks 
it  is  difficult  to  imagine  from  whence  they  could  have  derived  their 
knowledge.     The  figures  drawn  upon  the  panels  of  the  jos-houst, 
seated  upon  broad  swords  and  bow  and  arrows,  may  be  adduced  as 
further  evidence  of  their  possessing  weapons  ;  and  this  is  material- 
ly  strengthened   by  the  fact   of  their   harbour  being  defended  by 
three  square  stone  forts,  one  on  each   side  of  the  entrance,  and  the 
other  upon  a  small   island,   so  situated  within    the  harbour,  that  it 
would  present  a  raking  fire    to  a  vessel  entering  the  port ;  and  these 
forts   having  a  number  of  loop-holes  in  them,  and  a  platform  and 
parapet  formed  above,  with  stone  steps  leading  up  to  it  in  several 
places.     This  platform  would  not  have  been  wide  enough  for  our 
cannon,  it  is  true  ;  but  unless  it  were  built  for  the  reception  of 
those  weapons,  there  is  apparently  no  other  use   for  which  it  could 
have  been  designed.     I  presented  the  mandarin  with  a  pair  of  pis- 
tols, which  he  thankfully  accepted,  and  they  were  taken  charge  of 
by  his  domestics  without  exciting   any  unusual  degree  of  curiosity. 
Upon  questioning  An-yah  where  his  government  procured  its  pow- 
der, he  immediately  replied  from  Fochien. 

It  is  further  extremely  improbable  that  these  people  should  have 


♦Tlicie  were  none  on  beard  the  junk  which  sailed  for  China. 


ti 


[May, 

so  niucli  s\Vir- 
1,  tlio\i|:;,h  thoy 
Lteful  recollec- 
e  kepi  by  tlic 
giving  olVciice, 
enable  tben»  to 
pon  tbe  whole, 

)0  possessed  no 
urprise  in  Eng- 
f  objects  of  in- 
ivas  as  satisfac- 
.reapon  whatev- 
iosition  of  their 
itives,  and  upon 
oong-choo,  and 
:ion  and  muskets 
were  twenty-six 
'e  were  disposed 
n,  and  all  classes 
our  cannon,  and 
jment  of  the  flint 
ood  from  the  na- 
sessed  these  locks 
.ve  derived  their 
(f  the  jos-houst, 
ty  be  adduced  as 
this  is  material- 
Ting  defended  by 
entrance,  and  the 
[e  harbour,  that  it 
port ;  and  these 
id  a  platform  and 
ip  to  it  in  several 
e  enough  for  our 
ithe  reception  of 
[or  which  it  could 
ith  a  pair  of  pis- 
taken  charge  of 
•ree  of  curiosity, 
'rocured  its  pow- 

lople  should  have 

for  China. 


1827.1 


AND   BEKRINO  S   STHAIT. 


407 


no  weapons,  considering  tlio  expeditions  wiiich  have  been  successive- 
ly fitted  out  by  both  China  and  Japan  against  Loo  Choo,  and  the 
civil  wars  which  unfortunately  prevailed  in  the  island,  more  or  loss, 
during  the  greater  part  of  the  time  that  the  nation  was  divided  into 
three  kingdoms.*     Besides,   the  haughty  lone  of  the  king  to  the 
I  commander  of  an  expedition  which  was  sent,  in  A.  D.  605,  to  de- 
mand submission  to  his  master  the  Emperor  of  China,  viz.  "  That  ho 
would  acknowledge  no  master,"  is  not  the  language  of  a  people  des- 
titute of  weapon?.    Loo  Choo  has  been  subdued  by  almost  every  ex- 
pedition against  it,  yet  it  is  not  likely  the  country  could  have  made 
even  a  show  of  resistance  against  the  invaders,  had  the  inhabitants 
been  unarmed  ;  they  nevertheless  resisted  the  famous  Tay-Cosama, 
and  though  conquered,  threw  off  the  yoke  of  Japan  soon  afterwards, 
and  returned  under  the  dominion  of  China.     It  was  afterwards  re- 
taken by  Kingtchang  with   3,000  Japanese,   who  imprisoned   the 
king,  and  killed  Tching-hoey,  his  father,  because  he  refused  to  ac- 
knowledge the  sovereignty  of  Japan. f     They  are,  besides,  said  to 
have  sent  swords  as  tribute  to  Japan.     In  1454  the  king  Chang-tai- 
keiou  had  to  sustain  a  civil  war  against  his  brother,  who  was  at  first 
successful,  and  beat  Chang-lai-keiou  in  a  battle,  in  which  he  fought 
at  the  head  o(  his  troops.     It  is  not  improbable  that  all  this  warfare 
and  bloodshed  should  have  transpired  without  the  Loo  Chooans  be- 
ing possessed  of  arms  ;  besides,  it  is  expressly  stated  by  Supao-Ko- 
ang,  that  arms  were  manufactured  in  the  island.     I  am,  therefore, 
disposed  to  believe  that  the  Loo  Chooans  have  weapons,  and  that 
they  are  similar  to  those  in  use  in  China.     And  with  regard  to  the 
objection  which  none  of  them  having  ever  been  seen  in  Loo  Choo 
would  offer,  I  can  only  say,  that  while  I  was  in  China,  with   the 
exception  of  cannon  in  the  forts,  I  did  not  see  a  weapon  of  any  kind, 
though  that  people  is  well  known  to  possess  them. 

It  was  also  thought  that  the  Loo  Choo  people  were  ignorant  of 
I  the  use  of  money.  But  this  point  has  now  been  satisfactorily  de- 
dermined,  by  our  having  seen  it  in  circulation  in  the  island,  and 
having  some  of  it  in  our  own  possession.  The  coin  was  similar  to 
the  cash  of  China.  An-yah  declared  th^.t  there  were  no  gold  or  sil- 
ver coins  in  the  country,  not  even  ignots,  which  are  in  use  in  China ; 
but  this  will  hereafter,  perhaps,  prove  to  be  untrue,  as  he  even  de- 
hied  the  use  of  the  cash  until  it  was  found  in  circulation.  There  is 
very  little  doubt  that  money  has  been  long  known  to,  if  not  in  use 
I  among,  the  Loo  Chooans.     About  the  year  A.  D.   1454,  in  the 

*  From  its  division  under  Yut-Ching  in  1300,  tintil  it  wo        I'-.ed   under  Chang- 
I  pat-chi,  about  a  century  afterwards. 
1    t  Report  of  Supao-Koang,  a  learned  Chinese  physician,  sent  by  the  Emperor  of 

China  to  Loo  Choo  in  1719,  to  report  upon  the  country. — Lottres  Edifiantes  ct  Cri-u 

eases,  vol.  xxviii. 


■J  t  S"  h 


II  ■ 


.1 


408 


VOYAUk:  TU    TUC    PACIFIC 


Way, 


loigii  of  Cliang-tai-keiou,  -ve  are  told  that  so  largo  a  quantity  of  sil- 
ver and  brass  coin  was  taken  from  China  to  Loo  Choo,  that  the 
provinces  of  Tchc-Kiang  and  of  Fochien  complained  to  the  empe- 
ror of  the  scarcity  it  had  occasioned  in  those  places  ;*  and  Pcre 
Gaubil,  quoting  Supao-Koang,t  after  enumerating  several  articles  of 
trade,  says  **  tout  cela  se  vende  et  s'achete,  ou  par  echange  ou  en 
deniers  de  cuivres  de  la  Chine." 

Our  countrymen  were  further  led  to  believe,  from  what  wo  saw 
of  the  mild  and  gentle  conduct  of  the  superior  orders  in  Loo  Clioo 
towards  their  inferiors,  that  the  heaviest  penalty  attached  to  the  com- 
mission of  a  crime  was  a  gentle  tap  of  a  fan.  Our  friend  with  his 
bamboo  cane,  who  was  put  on  board  to  preserve  order  among  his 
countrymen,  afforded  the  first  and  most  satisfactory  evidence  wo 
could  have  had  of  this  being  an  error,  and  had  we  possessed  no  oth- 
er means  of  information,  his  conduct  would  have  favoured  the  pre- 
sumption of  more  severe  chastisement  being  occasionally  inflicted. 
It  happened,  however,  fortunately,  that  I  had  purchased  in  China  a 
book  of  the  punishments  of  that  country,  in  which  the  refined  cruelty 
of  the  Chinese  is  exhibited  in  a  variety  of  ways.  By  showing  tiiese 
to  the  Loo  Choo  people,  and  inquiring  if  the  same  were  practiced  in 
their  country,  we  found  that  many  of  their  punishments  were  very 
similar.  Those  which  they  acknowledged  were  death  by  strangu- 
lation upon  a  cross,  and  sometimes  under  the  most  cruel  torture; 
and  minor  punishments,  such  as  loading  the  body  with  iron  chains; 
or  locking  the  neck  into  a  heavy  wooden  frame  ;  enclosing  a  person 
in  a  case,  with  only  his  head  out,  sha  ""d,  and  exposed  to  a  scorch- 
ing sun  ;  and  binding  the  hands  ar  t,  and  throwing  quicklime 
into  the  eyes.     I  was  further  assure  confession  was  sometimes 

extorted  by  the  unheard-of  cruelty  of  dividing  the  joints  of  the  fin- 
gers alternately,  and  clipping  the  muscles  of  the  legs  and  arms  with 
scissors.  Isaacha  Sando  took  pains  to  explain  the  manner  in  which 
this  cruelty  was  performed,  putting  his  fingers  to  the  muscles  in  im- 
itation of  a  pair  of  sheers,  so  that  I  could  not  be  mistaken  :  besides, 
other  persons  at  Potsoong  told  me  in  answer  to  my  inquiry,  for  1 
was  rather  sceptical  myself,  that  it  was  quite  true,  and  that  they 
had  seen  a  person  expire  under  this  species  of  torture.  However, 
lest  it  should  be  thought  I  may  have  erred  in  attaching  such  cruel- 
ties to  a  people  apparently  so  mild  and  humane,  I  shall  insert  some 
questions  that  were  pul  to  the  Loo  Chooans  out  of  Dr.  Morrison's 
Dictionary,  and  theii  answers  to  them  respectivtiy. 

"  Do  the  Loo  Choo  people  torture  and  interrogate"  with  the  lash  ?" 
"  Yes." — "  Do  they  examine  by  torture  ?"  Yes." — "  Do  they  give 


♦  Recueil  de  Pere  Gaubil. 
tibid.  p  403,  Lettrca  Edifiantes. 


T 


K^-27.| 


AND    UEKRINfi  S    STRAIT. 


409 


false  evidence  tlimngli  foar  of  torture  ?"  "  Yes." — "  Arc  gront  offi- 
rors  of  the  third  (iej^ree  of  rank  and  upwards,  wlio  are  degraded  and 
st'izod  to  be  tried,  sid)jected  to  torture  r"  "  IN'o." — '•  Is  torture  in- 
llictud  in  an  illegal  and  extreme  degree?"  "  Not  illegal." — "Do 
yon  torture  to  death  the  real  ofi'ender  ?"  "  Yes,  sometimes." — 
•'  What  punishment  do  you  inllict  for  murder?"  "  Kill  by  hanging 
nr  stravgu/ation.'"* — "  For  robbery  ?"  "  The  same." — '"'  For  adul- 
tery ?"  "  Banish  to  Pantajun."  (probably  l*at-chong-clian,  an  is- 
and  to  tbe  south-west  of  Typingsan.) — "  For  seduction  ?"  "  The 
same."  Minor  otlences  we  were  told  were  |.iniished  with  a  bam- 
booing  or  flagellation  witli  a  rod.  Crimes  are  said  to  be  few  in  num- 
ber, and  speaking  generally  there  appears  to  be  very  little  vice  in 
tbc  people. 

I  was  assured  by  An-yali  that  marriages  in  Loo  Choc  were  con- 
tracted as  tliey  are  in  China,  by  the  ))arents  or  by  a  friend  of  the 
parties,  without  the  principals  seeing  each  other.  Only  one  wife,  I 
believe  is  allowed  in  Loo  Clioo,  though  to  the  question,  whether  a 
plurality  of  wives  was  permitted  ?  both  An-yah  and  Shtafacoo  said 
tliat  the  mandarin  had  five,  and  that  the  king  had  several. f  They, 
however,  afterwards  declared  that  in  their  country  it  was  customary 
to  have  only  one  wife.  Perhaps  it  is  the  same  in  Loo  Choo  as  in 
China  where  a  man  may  have  only  one  lawful  wife ;  but  with  h  r 
permission  he  may  marry  as  many  more  as  he  can  provide  for. 
These  wives  are  as  much  respected  as  the  first  wife,  but  they  do 
not  inherit  their  husband's  proprty. 

In  Loo  Chou,  as  in  China,  there  is  no  religion  of  the  state,  and 
Kveryman  is  allowed  freely  to  enjoy  his  own  opinion,  though  here, 
also,  a  distinction  is  made  between  the  sects  one  being  considered 
superior  to  the  other.  The  sects  in  Loo  Choo  are  Joo,  Taou,  and 
Fog,  or  Budh  ;  but  the  disciples  of  the  latter  consist  almost  entire- 
ly of  persons  of  the  lowest  order,  and  An-yah  appeared  to  think  very 
lightly  of  its  votaries,  saying  there  were  "  no  good"  It  is  upon  rec- 
ord that  it  is  1011  years  since  this  sect  passed  from  China  to  Loo 
Choo.  For  several  centuries  its  doctrines  appear  to  have  been  ad- 
vocated by  the  court  as  well  as  by  the  common  people :  but  with 
the  latter  classes  they  have  since  been  supplanted  by  those  of  Con- 
fucius. We  are  told  that  in  the  year  1372  several  families  from 
Fochien  settled  near  Napa-kiang,  and  introduced  ceremonies  in  hon- 
our of  the  great  Chinese  philosopher,  whose  memory  was  further 
honoured  by  a  temple  being  erected  to  him  in  Loo  Choo,  in  1663, 
by  the  Manshur  Tartar,  Emperor  Kang-hi.  Confucius  is  now 
honoured  and  revered  by  all  classes  in  Loo  Choo.     The  sect  Taou 

*  The  worils  in  itulios  were  implied  by  sig-ns. 
t  Supno-Koiiiig'  s.Tvg  ;i  plurality  of  wives  in  permitted. 

52' 


r  ,'»i 


I 


^■ 


410  \0\-ACV.    TO    THE    PACIFIC  [Mai/, 

which  is  eq'ially  corrupt  with  that  of  Foo,  has  but  few  advocates 
among  the  better  classes  of  society. 

Like  tlie  Chinese,  the  Loo  Chooans  are  extremely  superstitious 
and  invoke  their  deities  upon  every  occasion,  sometimes  praying  to 
the  good  spirit,  and  at  others  to  the  evil.  Near  the  beach  to  the 
northward  of  Potsoong,  upon  thj  shore  which  faces  the  coast  of 
China,  there  were  several  square  stones  with  pieces  of  paper  attacli- 
ed  to  them.  The  natives  gave  us  to  understand  they  were  the 
prayers  of  individuals  ;  but  we  could  not  exactly  understand  the  na- 
ture of  them.  A  label  similarly  placed  to  those  upon  the  beach 
wan  carried  away  by  Captain  Hall,  and  found  to  c(  ntain  a  prayer 
for  the  safe  voyaj^e  of  a  friend  who  had  gone  from  Loo  Choo  to  Chi- 
na ;  it  is  very  probable,  therefore,  that  those  which  we  saw  were 
for  similar  purposes.  At  the  Jos  House  at  Potsoong  I  have  men- 
tioned pieces  of  paper  being  suspended  between  the  panels,  and 
have  also  suggested  the  probability  of  their  being  supplications  of  a 
similar  nature.  Indeed  one  of  these  also  was  taken  to  Macao  by 
Lieutenant  ClifTord,  and  found  to  be  an  invocation  of  the  Devil.* 

ill  a  natural  cave  near  Abbey  Point,  I  found  a  rudely  carved  im- 
age, about  three  feet  in  height,  of  the  goddeso  Kwan-yin  (pronoun- 
ced Kwan-yongby  the  Loo  Chooans).  In  front  of  the  do'ly  tirie 
w*^re  several  square  stone  vessels  for  offerings,  and  upon  one  of  thrm 
short'pieces  of  polished  wood  were  placed,  which  Iconj  ctured  to 
he  for  the  purpose  of  deciding  questions,  in  the  manuer  practised  by 
the  Foo  sect  in  China,  by  being  tossed  in  the  air,  or  rattled  in  a 
bamboo  case,  until  one  falls  to  the  ground  with  its  mark  uppermost, 
Tvhen  it  is  referred  to  a  number  in  the  book  of  the  priest,  and  an 
answer  is  given  accordingly.  The  natives  were  very  unwilling  to 
allow  me  to  approach  this  figure,  and  pulled  me  back  wliei  I  step- 
ped into  a  small  stone  area  in  front  of  it,  for  the  purpose  of  exam- 
ining these  pieces  of  wood.  In  China  there  arc  fasts  in  honour  of 
this  goddess,  and  no  doubt  there  are  the  same  in  Loo  Ciioo. 

The  following  answers  to  several  questions  which  I  put  to  the  na- 
tives of  Loo  Choo  will  fully  explain  the  religion  of  the  people, 

"  How  many  religions  are  there  in  Loo  Ciioo  ?"  "Thltc"— 
"  What  are  these  religions  ?"  "  Joo,  Shih,  Taou,  Shih  is  the 
same  as  Foo," — "  Are  there  many  persons  of  e  religion  of  Joo :' 
" Plenty,"— "  Foo ?"  "No  good."— ''Taou  ?"  "Few."— "Does 
the  sect  Joo  worship  images  ?"  "  Sometimes  kneel  down  to  heaven 
sometimes  pray  in  heart,  sometimes  go  priest  house  (temple),"— 
"  Do  they  go  to  the  temple  of  Kwan-yin  ?"  "  Yes." — "  Do  they 
go  to  the  temple  of  Pih-chang  ?"  "  Sometimes." — "  Do  they  go  to 


♦  Hall's  Loo  Chio,  4to.  p,  206. 


1827.1 


AND    BEERIKg's  SillAIT. 


411 


the  temple  of  Ching-lnvang ?"*  "No." — <"Do  Joo,  Shili,  and 
Taou  believe  that  heaven  will  reward  the  good  and  punish  the  bad  ?" 
"Yes." 

To  the  sentence,  "  At  heart  the  doctrine  of  the  three  religions  is 
the  same ;  and  it  is  firmly  believed  that  heaven  will  do  justice  by 
rewarding  the  good  and  punishing  the  bad,"  An-yah  did  not  assent. 
To  the  following  sentence,  "  Both  in  this  life  and  in  the  life  to 
come  there  a;  ?  rewards  and  puninshments  ;  but  there  is  regard  to 
the  offences  of  men,  whether  heinous  or  not :  speedy  punishments 
are  in  this  life ;  those  that  are  remote  in  the  world  to  come,"  An-yah 
replied,  "  Priest  say  so." 

"  God  created  and  constantly  governs  all  things  ?"  "  Englishman's 
God,  yes." — "  When  God  creat'jd  the  great  progenitor  of  all  men, 
he  was  perfectly  holy  and  perfectly  happy  ?"  "No." — "The  first 
ancestor  of  the  human  race  sinned  against  God,  and  all  his  descen- 
dants are  naturally  depraved,  inclined  to  evil,  and  averse  from  good." 
"  Good." — "  If  men's  hearts  be  not  renewed,  and  their  sins  atoned 
for,  they  must  after  death  suffer  everlasting  misery  in  hell."  "Priest 
say  so:  An-yah  not  think  so." — "  Do  the  three  sects  believe  in 
metempsychosis  ?"  This  was  not  understood. — "  Do  ihey  believe 
that  all  things  are  appointed  by  heaven?"  "Yes." — "Are  there 
any  atheists  in  Loo  Choo  ?"  "  Many." 

In  Loo  Choo  the  priesthood  are  as  much  neglected  and  despised 
PS  in  China,  notwithstanding  their  being  consulted  as  oracles  by  all 
classes.  Several  of  them  visited  me  in  the  garden  at  Potsoong, 
and  remained  while  I  m^^de  my  magnetical  observations.  As  these 
occupied  a  long  time,  !  had  an  opportunity  of  particularly  remark- 
ing these  unfortunate  beings,  and  certainly  I  never  saw  a  more  un- 
intellectual  and  care-worn  class  of  men.  Many  persons  crowded 
round  the  .spot  to  observe  what  was  going  forward,  and  the  poor 
priests  were  obliged  to  give  way  to  every  new  comer,  notwithstand- 
ing Lhey  were  in  their  own  garden.  Their  heads  were  shaved, 
similar  to  those  of  the  Bodzes  in  China.  I  am  not  aware  in  what 
this  practice  originated,  but  as  an  observer  I  could  not  help  noticing 
that  the  same  operation  is  performed  on  the  heads  of  criminals,  or 
of  persons  who  are  disgraced  in  China  and  from  I'Abbe  Grosier  it 
appears  to  be  considered  a  similar  disgrace  in  Loo  Choo.f 

I  endeavoured  to  distribute  amongst  the  inhabitants  some  religious 
bouk'-  which  Dr.  Morrison  had  given  me  in  China,  but  there  was 
a  very  great  repugnance  among  the  better  part  of  the  community  to 
suffer  them  even  to  be  looked  iito,  much  less  to  being  carried 
away ;  a.id  several  that  were  s(  ;retly  taken  on  shore  by  the  lower 

♦  Ching'-liwang  is  tlie  goddess  of  Canton. 
i  Description  dc  la  Ciiinc,  vol.  II,  p.  113. 


•Ml' 


.  u   t 


-Jtr 


"■F' 


I  <  .  'Vmi(  «* 


412 


VOYAGE  TO  TH"   PACIFIC 


[Miti/, 


m 


orders  were  brought  back  the  next  day.  However  I  succeeded  in 
disposing  of  a  lew  copies,  and  Mr.  Lay,  1  am  glad  to  find,  was 
efjually  fortunate  with  some  which  he  also  obtained  from  the  same 
gentleman. 

It  has  been  shown,  in  the  course  of  the  narrative,  that  the  pres- 
ent manner  of  disposing  of  the  dead  differs  from  that  described  by 
Pere  Gaubil,  who  says  they  burn  the  flesh  of  the  deceased,  awd 
preserve  the  bones.  It  is  not  improbable  that  the  custom  may  liave 
changed,  and  that  there  is  no  mistake  in  the  statement,  as  there  is 
no  reason  to  doubt  the  veracity  of  the  Chinese  author  whom  he 
quotes. 

They  pay  every  possible  attention  and  respect  to  their  departed 
friends  by  attending  strictly  to  their  mourning,  frequently  visiting 
the  tombs,  and,  for  a  certain  time  after  the  bodies  are  interred,  in 
supplying  the  cups  and  other  vessels  placed  there  with  tea,  and  the 
lamps  with  oil,  and  also  by  keeping  the  tombs  exceedingly  neat  and 
clean.  We  have  frequently  seen  persons  attending  these  lamps, 
and  Lieutenant  Wainwright  noticed  a;i  old  man  strewing  Howers  and 
shells  upon  a  newly  made  grave,  which  he  said  contaii  'd  his  son, 
and  watching  several  sticks  of  incense  as  they  burned  slowly  down 
to  the  earth  in  which  they  were  fixed. 

The  trade  of  this  island  is  almost  en'irely  confined  to  Japan,  Chi- 
na, and  Formosa  ;  Manilla  is  known  as  a  commercial  country,  and 
it  is  recorded  that  a  vessel  has  made  the  voyage  to  Malacca.  In 
China  their  vessels  go  to  Fochien,  which  they  call  Wheit-yen,  and 
sometimes  to  Pekin.  Commerce  between  Japan  and  Loo  Choo 
is  conducted  entirely  in  Japenese  vessels,  which  bring  hemp,  iron 
copper,  pewter,  cotton,  culinary  utensils,  lacquered  furniture,  ex- 
cellent hones,  and  occasionally  rice  ;  though  this  article  when  wan- 
ted is  generally  supplied  from  an  island  to  the  northward  belong- 
ing to  Loo  Choo,  called  Ooshima  :  but  this  is  only  required  in  dry 
jjaasons.  The  exports  of  Loo  Choo  are  salt,  grain,  tobacco,  sam- 
schew  spirit,  rice,  when  sufficiently  plentiful,  grass  hemp,  of  which 
their  clothes  are  made,  hemp,  and  cotton.  In  return  for  these  they 
faring  fron'  China  different  kinds  of  porcelain,  glass,  furniture,  med- 
icines, silvsr,  iron,  silks,  nails,  tiles,  tools,  and  tea,  as  that  grown 
upon  Loo  Choo  is  of  an  inferior  quality.  Several  other  articles  of 
both  export  and  import  are  mentioned  by  Supao-Koang,  such 
as  gold  and  silver  from  Formosa,  and  iron  from  China ;  among  the 
former,  mother-of-peaal,  tortoise-shell,  bezoar-stone,  and  excellent 
hones.  The  last  mentioned  articles,  however,  if  found  in  Loo  Choo 
are  certainly  not  very  plentiful,  as  they  are  carried  thither  from  Ja- 
pan ;  and  An-yah  denied  there  being  any  mother-of-pearl  tliere. 
This  trade  is  conducted  in  two  junks  belonging  to  Loo  Clioo, 
which  go  annually  to  China  :  and  they  have  besides  these  their  trih- 
ute  vessel. 


18-27.] 


AND    BEERINO  S    STRAIT. 


413 


The  trade  with  Japan  appears  formerly  to  have  been  lirn'ted  at 
I25thails  (tael  of  Canton,)  beyond  which  nothing  was  allowed  to 
be  sold.  The  goods  carried  to  the  country  consisted  of  silks  and 
other  stuffs,  with  Chinese  commodities,  and  the  produce  of  their 
own  country,  such  as  corn,  rice,  pulse,  f  uits,  spirits,  mother  of 
pearl,  cowries,  and  large  flat  shells,  which  are  so  transparent  that 
they  are  used  in  Japan  for  windows  instead  of  glass.* 

Their  manufactures  do  not  appear  to  be  numerous,  and  are  prob- 
ably only  such  as  are  necessary  for  their  own  convenience.  I  have 
spoken  of  the  rude  hand-looms  in  use,  the  spinning-wheel,  and  the 
mills  worked  by  cattle ;  these  were  the  only  machines  we  saw, 
though  it  may  be  inferred  they  have  others.  A  short  distance  to 
the  southward  of  Napia-kiang  I  was  told  there  was  a  paper  manufac- 
tory, and  had  a  quantity  of  paper  g'ven  rne  said  to  have  been  made 
there  It  closely  resembled  that  oi'China,  but  appeared  to  be  more 
ivooUy.  Grass-cloth,  of  a  coarse  texture,  rnd  coarse  cottons,  are 
also  wove  upon  the  island ;  but  I  believe  all  the  finer  ones  come 
from  China,  as  well  as  the  broad  cloth  of  which  their  cloaks  are 
made.  Red  pottery  moderately  good,  a  bad  porcelain,  and  tiles, 
are  among  their  manufactures,  and  also  paper  fans,  of  which  the 
skeleton  is  bamboo ;  pipes,  hair  pins,  and  wicker  baskets,  and  two 
sorts  of  spirits  distilled  from  grain  ;  moroofocoo,  already  described  ; 
and  another  called  sackee,  resembling  the  samshew  of  China  ;  salt, 
from  the  natural  deposition  of  the  sea,  is  collected  in  pans. 

Supao-Koang  mentions,  among  the  manufactures  of  this  country, 
silk,  arms,  brass  instruments,  gold  and  silver  ornaments,  a  paper 
even  thicker  than  that  of  Corea,  made  of  hs  cocons,  and  another 
made  of  bainboo,  besides  that  manufactured  from  the  bark  of  the 
paper  tree.  He  states  they  have  woods  fit  for  dyes,  and  particular- 
ly esteem  one  made  from  a  tree,  the  leaves  of  which  resemble  those 
of  the  citron  tree  ;  and  mentions  bras?,  pewter,  saddles,  bridles,  and 
sheaths  as  being  manufactured  tli  considerable  taste  and  neatness 
upon  the  island,  and  as  forming  |<ui  of  the  tril)ute  to  China,  fioni 
which  it  might  be  inferred  that  they  were  better  executed  than  those 
in  Pekin. 

Previous  to  our  departure  I  offered  An-yuii  a  patent  i  orn  mill 
and  a  winnowing  machine,  and  showed  him  the  the  use  of  them. 
He  was  extremely  thankful  for  them  at  first,  but  after  a  little  con- 
sidci'ation  he  declined  the  present,  without  assigning  my  reason. 
He  probably  imagined  the  introduction  of  foreign  mat  hinery  miglit 
be  disapproved  by  his  superiors. 

It  has  been  observed  that  drums  and  tambourines  were  t!i  only 
musical  instruments  among   these  people ;  we   saw    a  fluio,  and 

♦  Ktcmpfcr'B  History  of  Japan,  p.  381. 


«.:.  '  11 


■!  :;     I 


r 


:H 


iii[dk 


'M 


•fn 


<q^ 


414 


VOYAGE  TO    THE  PACIFIC 


^, 


[May, 

were  told  that  tlie  inhabitants  possessed  violins  and  other  stringed 
instrunients  ;  yet  they  do  not  appear  to  be  a  musical  nation. 

Among  our  numerous  inquiries  there  was  not  one  to  which  we  got 
such  contradictory  answers  as  that  concerning  the  residence  of  the 
king  of  Loo  Choo.  It  was  evident  that  there  was  a  person  of  very 
high  authority  upon  the  island,  whom  they  styled  wang,  which  in 
Dr.  Morrison's  Dictionary  is  translated  king,  and  that  his  residence 
was  not  far  from  Napa-kiang  ;  but  An-yah  provoked  me  much  by 
always  evading  tiiis  question.  Sometimes  he  said  it  was  four  days 
to  the  norch-east,  at  others  that  it  was  only  one,  and  at  last  that  it 
was  at  a  place  called  Sheui,or  Shoodi.  Some  of  the  natives  whom 
1  interrogated  on  this  subject,  declared  it  was  at  Ee-goo-see-cou, 
about  nine  leagues  to  the  northward  ;  others,  however,  told  me  the 
name  of  his  residence  was  Shoodi ;  therefore,  Sheui,  or  Shoodi,  is 
[n  all  probability  the  correct  name  of  the  place.  As  the  natives 
pointed  out  to  me  the  town  upon  the  hill,  at  the  back  of  Napa-ki- 
ang as  Shoodi,  and  as  another  party  named  it  to  Mr.  Collie  Shumi, 
we  may  presume  that  this  town  is  the  capit?l  of  Loo  Choo ;  and 
this  is  the  conclusion,  as  already  remarked,  that  Captain  Hall  came 
to,  after  many  inquiries  on  the  subject.  Indeed  I  should  think  there 
could  be  not  much  doubt  about  it,  as  it  answers  very  well  both  in 
name  and  position  to  the  capital  described  by  Supao  Koang,  who 
remarks  that  the  king  holds  his  court  in  the  south-west  part  of  the 
island.  The  ground  it  stands  upon  is  called  Cheuli,*  and  that  near 
this  place  the  pp'ace  of  the  king  is  situated  upon  a  hill,  In  anoth- 
er part  he  says  that  the  space  between  Napa-Kiang  and  tl  :e  palace  j 
is  almost  one  continued  town.f  Mr.  Klaproth,  however,  has  pub- 
lished extracts  from  some  Chinese  documents,  which  place  the  cap-  ] 
ital  twenty  lis  (ten  miles  ?)  east  of  Napa-kiang. 

In  the  journal  of  my  officers,  I  find  that  some  of  them  were  in- 
formed by  the  inhabitants  that  tribute  was  sent  to  China  only  once  I 
in  seven  years,  and  others  that  it  was  paid  every  year.     Ka;mpfer 
also  says  that  tribute  is  sent  every  year  tc  the  Tartarian  monarch, 
in  token  of  submission.     By  the  Chinese  accounts  it  is  demanded  | 
every  second  year,  as  I  have  already  stated.     M.  J.  Klaproth,  quo- 
ting one  of  these  authors,  says,  in  1654  Loo  Choo  sent  Chang-Cliy,! 
the  king's  son,  with  an  ambassador  to  Pekin,  when  it  was  arranged 
that  every  second  year  an  ambassador  should  be  sent  to  that  court 
with  tribute,  which  should  consist  of  3,000  lbs.  of  copper,  12,600| 
lbs.  of  sulphur,  and  3,000  lbs.  of  a  strong  silk  ;  and  that  the  numberj 
of  his  suite  sliould  not  exceed  a  hundred  and  fifty  persons. 

Lord  macartney,  when  on  his  embassy  to  the  court  of  CliinaJ 

♦  Clicli  l)y  the  Loo  Chooaiia   would  be  jironounccd  Clicudi,  in  the  name  way  asl 
tlicy  (kU  Loo-Choo  Doo-Clioo. 
t  Lcttics  Ediilaiilei?,  p.  'JiO. 


^ 


iip 


1827.] 


AND    BEBRlNo's    STRAIT. 


415 


ludi,  in  the  liamc  way  ail 


the  mandarins  from  Loo  Choo,  wlio  were  going  with  this  tribute 

loPekin,  and  who  informed  him  their  chief  sent  delegates  every 

two  years  to  offer  tribute.*     And  when  we  were  at  Loo  Choo,  both 

I  Ching-oong-choo  and  An-yah  informed  me  to  the  same  effect,  viz. 

that  it  was  sent  every  second  year.     We  may  therefore  conclude, 

I  that  ihis  is  the  period  agreed  upon  between  the  two  countries. 

M.  Klaproth,  p.  164,  informs  us  that,  notwithstanding  tribute  is 
I  paid  to  the  court  of  China,  Loo  Choo  is  also  compelled  to  acknowl- 
edge the  sovereignty  of  Japan,  to  send  ambassadors  there  from  time 
10  lime,  and  to  pay  tribute  in  swords,  horses,  a  species  of  perfume, 
ambergris,  vases  for  perfumes,  and  a  sort  of  stuff,  a  texture  nianu- 
lactured  from  the  bark  of  trees,  lacquered  tables  inlaid  with  shells 
Of  mother  of  pearl,  and  madder,  &c.     I  shall  merely  observe  upon 
his  passage,  that  some  of  the  articles  which  are  said  to  be  carried 
I  as  tribute  to  Japan  are  actually  taken  from  thence,  and  from  China 
to  Loo  Choo,  such  as  the  vases  and  lacquered  tables ;    and  that 
I  mother  of  pearl  is  said  by  the  natives  not  to  be  found  upon  the 
shores  of  their  island. 

The  highest  point  of  Loo  Choo  which  we  saw  was  a  hill  situated 
I  at  the  back  of  Barrow's  Bay,in  about  the  latitude  of  26'  27 "  N.,  an- 
swering in  position  nearly  to  a  mountain  which  appears  on  the  chart 
of  Mr.  Klaproth,  under  the  name  ofOnnodake.  The  height  of 
this  mountain  is  1089  feet.  The  next  highest  point  to  this,  which 
nas  visible  from  the  anchorage,  was  the  summit  of  the  hill  of  Su- 
mar,  on  which  the  capital  is  built ;  the  highest  point  of  this  is  540 
feet,  six  inches.  Abbey  Point  is  98  feet  six  inches,  and  a  bluff  to 
ihe  northward  of  Potsoong  99  feet  and  nine  inches.  The  Sugar 
Loaf  (Ee-goo-see-coo)  was  to  far  diatant  for  us  to  determine  its 
height:  but  I  think  Mr.  Klaproth  is  wrong  in  saying  it  may  be  seen 
wenty-five  sea  leauges,  as  our  distiance  from  it  was  only  ten  leagues, 
and  it  was  scarcely  above  the  horizon.f  It  is  certainly  not  so  high 
as  Onnodake,  which,  to  a  person  at  the  surface  of  the  sea,  would 
be  just  visible  at  the  distance  of  thirty-four  miles.  He  is  also  mis- 
taken in  supposing  it  the  only  peak  on  the  island. 

These  heights  appear  to  be  gained  by  ascents  of  moderate  ele- 
I ration  only.  In  no  part  did  we  perceive  any  hills  so  abrupt  that 
Ithey  could  not  be  turned  to  account  by  the  agriculturist.  The  cen- 
Itreofthe  island,  or  perhaps  a  line  drawn  a  little  to  the  westward 
|of  it  is  the  most  elevated  part  of  the  country.  Still  the  island  is 
Inot  divided  by  a  ridge,  but  by  a  number  of  rounded  eminences,  for 
Ithe  most  part  of  the  same  elevation,  with  valleys  between  them  ; 
|so  that  when  viewed  at  a  distance  the  island  appears  to  have  a  very 

♦  Embassy  to  Ciiiiia,  by  Sir  Grcorge  Staunton,  vol.  ii.  p.  458 
t  Klaproth's  Memoires  relatifa  a  1,  Asic,  torn,  ii  p.  173. 


km 


It 


m 


•  -■> 


'i.^ 


A](i 


VOYAGK    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


•# 


\Maif, 

level  surface.  In  a  Chinese  nlan  of  Leo  Choo,  all  these  eminen- 
ces are  occupied  by  palaces  and  by  courts  of  the  king.  Tiie  hiaili. 
er  parts  of  the  island  are,  in  general,  surmounted  by  trees,  generally 
of  the  pinus  niassoniana,  and  the  cycas  ;  though  they  are  sometimes 
hare,  or  at  most  clothed  with  a  diminutive  and  uesless  vegetation. 
It  not  unfrcquently  happens  that  small  precipices  occur  near  the 
summits  of  the  hills,  and  that  large  blocks  of  a  coral-like  substance 
are  seen  lying  as  if  the  they  had  been  left  there  by  the  sea.  This 
substance,  of  which  all  the  rocky  parts  of  the  island  that  we  exam- 
ined were  composed,  is  a  cellular  or  granular  limestone,  bearing  a 
great  resemblance  to  coral,  for  which  it  might  easily  be  mistaken. 
It  has  a  very  rugged  surface,  not  unlike  silex  macliere.  Lieuten- 
ant Belcher  found  sandstone  of  a  loose  texture,  enclosing  balls  of 
blue  marl,  and  in  one  instance  interstratified  with  it  in  alternate 
sean)s  with  the  coral  formation.  This  formation  constituted  part  of 
a  reef,  dry  at  low  water.  In  the  marl  he  found  cylindrical  and  elon- 
gated cones,  similar  to  the  belemite,  of  a  light  colour,  and  occasion- 
ally crystalizations  of  calcareous  spar. 

The  precipices  inland,  as  well  as  those  which  form  clifTs  upon  the 
coast,  are  hollowed  out  beneath,  as  if  they  had  been  subjected  to 
the  action  of  the  waves.  Upon  the  sea-coast  this  has  no  doubt  been 
tlie  case,  and  the  Capstan  Rock,  spoken  of  before,  presents  a  curi- 
ous instance  of  its  effect ;  but  it  is  not  quite  so  evident  that  the  sea 
lias  reached  the  cliffs  near  Abbey  Foint,  as  they  are  separated  from 
it  by  a  plain  covered  with  vegetation,  and  the  violence  of  the  waves 
is  broken  by  reefs  which  lie  far  outside  them.  j 

The  soil  in  the  vicinity  of  Napa-kiang  is  generally  arenaceous  and 
marly  but  to  the  south-east  of  Abbey  Point  there  is  a  stratum  of 
clay,  which,  in  consequence  of  its  retaining  moisture  better  than 
other  parts  of  the  soil,  is  appropriated  to  the  cultivation  of  rice. 

The  greater  part  of  the  island  is  surrounded  by  reefs  of  coral,  i 
These  are  of  two  sorts  ;  one  in  which  the  animals  have  ceased  to 
exist,  and  the  other  which  is  still  occupied  by  them.     Both  are 
darker-coloured  than  the  reefs  in  the  middle  of  the  Pacific,  owing, 
probably,  to  the  various  depositions  which  the  rains  have  washed 
from  the  land.     The  shells  found  upon  them  are  very  much  incrus- 
ted.     About  eight  miles  to  the  northward  of  Napa-kiang  there  is  a 
deep  bay,  the  shores  of  which  are  very  flat,  and  have  been  convert- j 
ed  into  salt-pans  by  the  natives.     A  river  which  appears  to  have  its! 
rise  near  the  capital,  after  passing  at  the  back  of  some  hills,  aboiitl 
five  miles  inland,  empties  itself  into  this  bay.     There  is  also  anoth- 
er stream  at  Potsoong.     The  natives  would  not  permit  us  to  ascer-j 
tain  how  far  inland  the  water  flowed  up  the   harbour  ;  nor  wouldl 
they  inform  us  whether  it  was  a  division  of  the  island,  as  its  appear-j 
ance  induced  us  to  suppose.     In  the  Chinese  plan  already  alludedj 


-■■».*— 


mi.] 


AND    BEERINg's    STRAIT. 


41t 


lly  arenaceous  and 

e  is  a  stratum  of 

isture  better  than 

vat'ion  of  rice. 

jy  reefs  of  coral. 

s  have  ceased  to 
them.     Both  are 

le  Pacific,  owing,  ^ 
ains  have  ^yashed 
very  much  incrus- 
»a-kiang  there  is  a 
have  been  convert- 
appears  to  have  its 
some  hills,  about 
,ere  is  also  anoth- 
.)errait  us  to  ascer- 
[rbour  ;  nor  would 
lland,  as  its  appear- 
\n  already  alludedl 


to,  the  island  is  divided  by  such  a  channel ;  but  it  is  doubtful  wheth- 
er tliis  division  may  not  be  intended  for  the  channel  which  separates 
Loo  Choo  from  the  Madjico-sima  group,  as  the  island  to  ihe  south- 
ward has  Ta-paingchan  written  upon  it,  and  there  is  a  small  island 
close  to  the  eastward  of  it  called  Little  Lew  Kew.*  The  relative 
positions  of  these  are  correctly  given  in  the  plan,  but,  if  intended 
for  those  places,  there  is  an  egregious  violation  of  all  distance  and 
proportion. 

It  has  been  already  mentioned  that  the  vegetable  productions  of 
the  torrid  and  temperate  zones  are  here  Ibund  combined.  The  pal- 
nia;e,  hoerhavia,  scaivola,  tournefortia,  and  other  trees  and  shrubs 
recall  the  Coral  Islands  of  the  tropical  regions  to  our  view,  while 
therosaceaj  onagrariae,  etc.  remind  us  of  the  temperate  shores  of  our 
own  continent.  The  remarkable  genus  ofclerodendrum  is  here  pe- 
culiarly abundant.  Among  the  trees  and  shrubs  which  adorn  the 
heights,  the  bamboo,  hibiscus  tiliaceus,  thespesiapopularia,  hibiscus, 
rosa  sinensis,  pandanus,  piscidium,  and  several  other  trees  and  shrubs, 
some  of  which  were  new  to  us,  were  found  uniting  their  graceful  fo- 
liage ;  while  in  the  gardens  we  noticed  plantain,  banana,  fig,  and 
orange  trees,  though  the  latter  were  apparently  very  scarce.  We 
were  told  that  they  had  pomegranates,  but  that  they  had  neither  pine- 
apples, plums,  nor  leches,  though  they  were  perfectly  acquainted 
with  them  all.  The  le-che  is  a  fruit  which  is  said  to  be  peculiar  to 
China :  indeed  Pere  J.  B.  Dunhalde,  in  his  Description  de  la  Chine, 
vol.  i.  p.  .104,  says  it  grows  only  in  two  provinces  of  that  great  em- 
pire, Quang-tong,  and  Fokien.  Pere  Gaubil,  however,  affirms  that 
it  is  at  Loo  Choo,  and  that  there  are  also  there  citrons,  lemons,  rai- 
sins, plums,  apples,  and  pears,  none  of  which  we  saw. 

We  were  informed  that  the  tea  plant  was  tolerably  abundant,  and 
that  the  mild  and  excellent  tobacco  which  was  brought  on  board 
was  the  growth  of  the  island.  Gaubil  affirms  they  have  ginger,  and 
a  wood  which  they  burn  as  incense,  as  well  as  camphor  trees,  ce- 
dai-s,  laurels,  and  pines.  Among  the  vegetable  productions  the 
sweet  potatoe  appears  to  be  the  most  plentiful ;  the  climate  seemed 
so  favourable  to  its  growth,  that  we  observed  the  tops  rising  from  a 
soil  composed  almost  entirely  ot  sand.  Both  the  root  and  the  leaf 
are  eaten  by  the  natives. 

The  soil  appears  to  be  cultivated  entirely  with  the  hoe,  and  there 
I  are  very  few  places  on  which  this  kind  of  labour  has  not  been  be- 
I  stowed.     Streams  of  water  are  not  very  abundant,  and  it  is  highly 
I  interesting  to  notice  the  manner  in  which  the  u.iiabitants  have  turn- 
ed those  which  they  possess  to  the  greatest  advantage,  by  conduct- 

•  Formosa,  notwithstanding' it  is  considerably  larg-er  than  Loo  Choo,  was  called 
I  Little  Licou-Kicon,  from  there  being  so  few  inhabitants  upon  it. — Recexieil  de  P. 
\  Gaubil. 

53 


V, 


'.p  I  h 


f.? 


418 


VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[May, 


ing  them  in  troughs  from  place  to  place,  and  at  last  allowing  thcni 
to  overflow  flat  places  near  the  beach,  for  the  purpose  of  raising  rice 
and  taro,  which  require  a  soil  constantly  wet. 

The  principal  animals  which  we  saw  at  Loo  Choo  were  bullocks, 
horses,  asses,  goats,  pigs,  and  cats ;  all  of  very  diminutive  size :  a 
bullock  which  was  brought  to  us  weighed  only  lOOlbs.  without  the 
offal,  and  the  horses  were  so  low  that  a  tall  person  had  difliculty  in 
keeping  his  feet  ofFthe  ground  ;  yet  these  animals  must  be  esteemed  in 
in  Japan,  as  they  are  said  to  have  formed  part  of  the  tribute  to  tliat 
place.  The  poultry  are  also  small :  we  heard  dogs,  but  never  saw 
any.  Klaproth,  p.  187,  asserts  there  are  bears,  wolves,  and  jack- 
als. A  venomous  snake  is  also  said  to  exist  in  the  interior.  But  the 
only  other  animals  we  saw  were  mice,  lizards,  and  frogs ;  the  latter 
somewhat  different  to  those  of  cur  own  country. 

The  insects  are  grasshoppers,  dragon-flies,  butter-flies,  honey- 
bees, wasps,  moskitos  of  a  large  size,  spiders,  and  a  mantis,  proba- 
bly peculiar  to  the  island. 

There  appeared  to  be  very  few  birds,  and  of  these  we  could  pro- 
cure no  specimens,  in  consequence  of  the  great  objection  on  the  part 
of  the  natives  to  our  firing  at  them,  arising  probably  from  their  be- 
lief in  transubstantiation.  Those  which  we  observed  at  a  distance 
resembled  larks,  martins,  wood-pigeons,  beach-plovers,  tringas,  he- 
rons, and  tern.     An-yah  said  there  were  no  patridges  in  the  island. 

Fish  are  more  abundant  though  not  large,  excepting  sharks  and 
dolphins,  which  are  taken  at  sea,  and  guard-fish,  which  are  often 
seen  in  the  harbour.  Those  frequenting  the  reefs  belong  principal- 
ly to  the  genera  chsetodon  and  labrus.  A  chromis,  a  beautiful  sniall 
fish,  was  noticed  in  the  waters  which  inundated  the  rice  fields. 

Upon  the  reefs  are  several  asterice.  These  animals  are  furnished 
with  long  spiny  tentaculje,  and  are  in  the  habit  of  conceiling  their 
bodies  in  the  hollow  parts  of  the  coral,  and  leaving  their  tentacuk 
to  be  washed  about  and  partake  of  the  waving  motion  of  the  sea ; 
and  to  a  person  unacquainted  with  the  zoophytes  which  form  the 
coral,  they  might  be  supposed  to  be  the  animals  connected  with  its 
structure.  Lieutenant  Belcher  remarks  of  these  reefs  that  a  change 
must  have  taken  place  in  them  since  they  were  visited  by  the  Al- 
ceste  and  Lyra,  as  he  never  observed  any  coral  reefs  apparently  ca 
destitute  of  animation  as  those  which  surround  Loo  Choo.  The 
sea  anemone  and  other  zoophytes  were  very  scarce. 

We  saw  no  shells  of  any  value.  A  few  cardium,  trochius,  and 
strombus  were  brought  me  by  An-yah,  and  the  haliotis  was  seen  on 
the  beach  ;  but  the  history  of  this  island  states  that  the  mother  of  I 
pearl,  large  flat  shells  nearly  transparent,  and  cowries,  formed  part 
of  the  tribute  to  Japan.  An-yah,  however,  assured  me  there  were 
no  pearl  shells  upon  the  coast. 


1827.] 


AND    BEERINg's    STRAIT. 


419 


Bd  me  there  were 


Tl)c  Climate  o.  Loo  Clioo  must  be  very  mild,  from  the  nature  of 
ilie  dwelling-houses  and  the  dress  of  the  people ;  the  mean  temper- 
ature of  the  air,  for  the  fortnight  which  we  passed  in  the  harbour, 
was  70".  Unlike  the  Typa,  we  here  experienced  no  great  transi- 
tions, but  an  almost  uniform  temperature,  which  dissipated  all  the 
sickness  the  Typa  had  occasioned.  We  had,  however,  a  good 
deal  of  rain  in  this  time,  which  was  about  the  change  of  the  mon- 
soon. By  An-yah's  account  this  island  is  occasionally  visited  by 
violent  ta-foongs  (mighty-winds,)  which  unroof  the  houses  and  de- 
stroy the  crops,  and  do  other  damage.  They  had  experienced  one, 
only  the  month  previous  to  our  arrival,  which  we  were  told  had  de- 
stroyed a  great  deal  of  rice,  and  was  the  cause  of  so  many  Japanese 
vessels  being  in  the  port.  In  1708  it  appears  that  one  of  these  hur- 
ricanes did  incalculable  mischief,  and  occasioned  much  misery.  The 
inhabitants  seem  to  entertain  a  great  dread  of  famine,  and  it  is  not 
improbable  that  these  tu-foongs  may  occasion  the  evil.  April,  May, 
June,  July,  August,  and  September  are  the  months  in  which  these 
winds  are  liable  to  occur. 

The  harbour  of  JNapa-kiang,  though  open  to  winds  from  the  north, 
by  the  west  to  south-west  is  very  secure,  provided  ships  anchor  in 
the  Bampool,  a  bay  formed  by  the  coral,  to  the  northward  of  the 
Capstan  Rock.  In  the  outer  anchorage,  at  high  water,  there  is 
sometimes  a  considerable  swell ;  and,  were  it  to  blow  hard  from  the 
westward  at  the  time  of  the  spring  tides,  I  have  no  doubt  it  would 
be  sensibly  felt.  The  reefs  which  afford  protection  to  the  harbour 
are  scarcely  above  the  sea  at  low  water  neap  tides,  and  some  remain 
wholly  covered.  In  general  they  are  much  broken,  and  have  many 
knolls  in  their  vicinity,  which  ought  to  make  ships  cautious  how  they 
stand  towards  them.  There  are  two  entrances  to  the  outer  harbour, 
one  from  the  northward,  and  the  other  from  the  westward.  The 
former  is  narrow,  and  has  several  dangerous  rocks  in  the  channel, 
which,  as  they  are  not  in  general  visible,  are  very  likely  to  prove 
injurious  to  vessels ;  and  as  it  can  seldom  happen  that  there  is  a  ne- 
cessity for  entering  the  harbour  in  that  direction,  the  passage  ought 
to  be  avoided.  The  western  entrance  is  divided  into  two  channels 
by  a  coral  bank,  with  only  seven  feet  water  upon  it,  which,  as  it 
was  discovered  by  the  Blossom,  I  named  after  that  ship.  The  pas- 
sage on  either  side  this  rock  may  be  made  use  of  as  convenient ; 
but  that  to  the  southward  is  preferable  with  southerly  winds  and 
flood  tides,  and  the  other  with  the  reverse.  A  small  hillock  to  the 
left  of  a  cluster  of  trees  on  the  distant  laud,  in  the  direction  of  Mt. 
Onnadake,  open  about  4°  to' the  eastward  of  a  remarkable  headland  to 
the  northward  of  Potsoong,  will  lead  throiT^ih  the  channel ;  and  the 
Captsan  Rock,with  the  highest  part  of  the  hill  over  Napa-kiang,which 
has  the  appi  jarance  of  a  small  cluster  of  trees,vvill  lead  close  over  the 


■^^ 


m 

11 

ii 

jp  iH 

m 

/<  ^1 

420 


VOVAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC* 


[Mny, 


north  end  of  Blossom  Rock.  Tliis  notice  of  the  dangers  of  enter- 
ing the  harbour  will  be  sufficient  in  this  place,  and,  if  vessels  are  not 
provided  with  a  chart  or  require  further  directions,  it  will  be  prudent 
to  anchor  a  boat  upon  the  rock. 

Though  the  inhabitants  of  Loo  Choo  show  so  much  anxiety  for 
charts,  they  do  not  appear  to  have  profited  much  by  those  which 
have  been  given  to  them,  nor  by  those  published  in  China  or  Japan. 
Their  knowledge  of  geography  is  indeed  extremely  limited,  and, 
with  the  exception  of  the  islands  and  places  with  which  they  trade, 
they  may  be  said  to  be  almost  ignorant  of  the  geography  of  every 
other  part  of  the  globe.  I  did  not  omit  to  inquire  about  Ginsima, 
Kinsima,  and  Boninsima,  islands  which  were  supposed  to  exist  at  no 
great  distance  to  the  eastward  of  Loo  Choo.  The  two  first  have  never 
been  seen  since  their  discovery,  but  the  other  group  has  long  been 
known  to  Japan  and  if  we  can  credit  the  charts  of  the  Japanese,  it 
has  been  inhabited  some  time,  as  several  villages  and  temples  are 
marked  therein.  The  Loo  Chooans,  however,  could  give  me  no  in- 
formation of  it,  or  of  any  other  islands  lying  to  the  eastward  of  tiieir 
own,  and  were  quite  surprised  at  hearing  a  Japanese  vessel*  had 
been  cast  away  upon  an  island  in  that  direction. 

The  groups  of  islands  seen  in  the  distance  to  the  westward  of  Loo 
Choo  are  called  by  the  natives  Kirrama  Agoo-gnee.  Kirrama  con- 
sists of  four  islands,  Zammamee,  Accar,  Ghirooma,  and  Toocast- 
chee,  of  which  all  but  the  last  are  very  small.  Agoo-gnee  consists 
of  two  small  island,  Aghee  and  Homar.  Both  groups  are  peopled 
from  and  are  subject  to  Loo  Choo.  Kirrama  has  four  mandarins, 
one  of  the  higher  order,  and  three  inferior  ;  and  Agoo-gnee  two  of 
the  latter.  The  islands  are  very  scantily  peopled  :  in  Toocastchee, 
which  is  the  largest,  there  are  but  five  hundred  houses.  The  small 
coral  islands  off  Napa-kiang  are  called  Tzee. 

To  the  northward  of  Loo  Choo  there  are  two  islands,  from  which 
supplies  are  occasionally  received  ;  Ooshima,t  of  which  I  have  spo- 
ken before  as  being  subject  to  Loo  Choo,  and  Yachoo-chima,  a  col- 
ony of  Japan.  Ooshima  produces  an  abundance  of  rice,  and  as  in 
dry  seasons  in  Loo  Choo  this  valuable  grain  sometimes  fails,  Yacoo 
chima  junks,  which  appear  to  be  the  great  carriers  to  Loo  Choo,  go 
there  and  load.  Ya-choo-chima  is  said  to  be  an  island  of  great  ex- 
tent, but  the  chart  which  An-yah  drew  to  show  its  situation  was  too 
rude  for  me  even  to  conjecture  which  of  the  islands  belonging  to 
Japan  it  might  be. 

In  my  narrative  of  Loo  Choo  I  have  made  allusion  to  the  works 

*  See  Ktempfer'3  Xistory  of  Japan. 

t  Probably  O-fousliiina  of  Supao-Koaiig,  situated  in  latitude  30"  N. 


♦«>■ 


[Mny, 

;ers  of  enter- 
vessels  are  not 
vill  be  prudent 

;h  anxiety  for 
r  those  which 
bina  or  Japan, 
r  limiteil,  and, 
ich  they  trade, 
^raphy  of  every 
ibout  Ginsima, 
ed  to  exist  at  no 
first  have  never 
>  has  long  been 
le  Japanese,  it 
ind  temples  are 
d  give  me  no  in- 
sastwavd  of  their 
lese  vessel*  had 

westward  of  Loo 
.  Kirrama  con- 
a,  and  Toocast- 
roo-gnee  consists 
)ups  are  peopled 

four  mandarins, 
goo-gnee  two  of 

in  Toocastchee, 
ises.     The  small 

ands,  from  which 
hich  I  have  spo- 
hoo-chima,  a  col- 
jf  rice,  and  as  in 
fmes  fails,  Yacoo 
to  Loo  Choo,  go 
iland  of  great  ex- 
[situation  was  too 
inds  belonging  to 

lion  to  the  works 


litude  30«  N. 


1B27.] 


AND    BEGRINg's    STHAIT. 


421 


ofseveral  Chinese  and  Japanese  authors,*  who  have  written  upon 
that  island.  As  their  accounts  generally  wear  the  appearance  of 
truth,  and  as  they  are  the  only  records  we  have  of  the  early  history 
of  a  country  so  little  visited  by  Europeans,  I  shall  give  a  sketch  of 
them,  that  my  reader  may  become  acquainted  with  what  is  known 
of  the  history  of  that  remote  country,  without  having  to  search  dif- 
ferent books,  only  one  of  which  has  as  yet  been  published  in  Eng- 
land. 

The  inhabitants  of  Loo  Choo  are  extremely  jealous  of  their  an- 
tiquity as  a  nation.  They  trace  their  descent,  from  a  male  and 
female,  who  were  named  Omo-mey-keiou,  who  had  three  sons  and 
two  daughters.  The  eldest  of  these  boys  was  named  Tien  sun  (or 
the  grandson  of  heaven.)  He  was  afterwards  the  first  king  of  Loo  Choo 
and  from  tho  first  year  of  his  reign  to  thefirst  of  thatof  C/hun-ticn, 
who  ascended  the  throne  A.  D.  1187,  they  reckon  a  period  of  no 
less  than  17,802  years.  The  kings  were  supposed  to  be  descended 
from  the  eldest  son,  the  nobility  from  the  second,  and  the  com- 
moners from  the  youngest.  The  eldest  daughter  was  namtd  Kun- 
kun,  and  had  the  title  of  Spirit  of  Heaven  ;  the  other,  named  Tcho- 
tcho,  was  called  the  Spirit  of  the  Ocean. 

We  are  told  that  five  and  twenty  dynasties  successively  occu- 
pied the  throne  of  Loo  Choo,  from  the  death  of  Tien-sun  to  the 
reign  of  Chun-tien  ;  but  nothing  further  was  known  of  the  history 
of  the  country  until  the  year  A.  D.  605,  when  the  Emperor  of 
China,  of  the  dynasty  of  Soui,"  being  informed  there  were  some 
islands  to  the  eastward  of  his  dominions  named  Loo  Choo,  became 
desirous  of  reconnoitring  their  situation,  and  of  becoming  acquain- 
ted with  the  resources  of  the  islands.  He  accordingly  fitted  out  an 
expedition,  but  it  did  not  effect  what  the  emperor  desired.  It  how- 
ever, brought  back  a  few  natives  :  and  an  embassador  from  Japan 
happening  to  be  at  the  court  of  China  at  that  time,  informed  the 
emperor  that  these  people  belonged  to  Loo  Choo,  and  described 
their  island  as  being  poor  and  miserable,  and  the  inhabitants  as  bar- 
barians. Being  informed  that  in  five  days  a  vessel  could  go  from 
his  dominions  to  the  residence  of  the  king  of  these  islands,  the  em- 
peror, Yang-tee  sent  some  learned  men  with  interpreters  to  Loo 
I  Choo  to  obtain  information,  and  to  signify  to  the  king  that  he  must 
acknowledge  the  sovereignty  of  the  emperor  of  China,  and  do  him 
homage.  This  embassy  succeeded  in  reaching  its  destination,  but 
I  as  might  have  been  expected  from  the  ruler  of  an  independent  peo- 

♦The  works  of  these  authors  will  be  found  inLcttres  Edifiantcset  Curienscs,  torn. 
I  sxiii.  1811 :  Grosier6Hr  la  Chine,  torn,  ii. ;  M.  J.  Klaproth,  Memoires  sur  la  ChinCv 
Kiinpfer's  History  of  Japan,  vol.  i. ;  P.  J.  B.  Duhaldo.  For  other  information  on 
Doo  Choo,  the  reader  is  referred  to  the  Voyages  of  Benyowsky,  Broughton,  and  of 
H.  M.  Bhips  Alacstc  and  Lyra. 


f^ 


'.I 


'^'■: 


I 


l.s 


}\ 


422  voYAflE  TO  THE  PACIFIC  [May 

j)Ie,  it  was  badly  received,  and  was  obliged  lo  return  with  the  haugh- 
ty answer  to  their  sovereign,  that  the  prince  of  Loo  Choo  would 
acknowledge  no  chief  superior  to  himself.  Indignant  at  being  tlius 
treated  by  a  people  who  had  been  described  as  barbarians,  he  put 
ten  thousand  experienced  troops  on  board  liis  junks,  and  made  a 
successful  descent  upon  the  Great  Loo  Choo.  The  king,  who  np. 
pears  to  have  been  a  man  of  great  courage,  placed  himself  at  tlio 
head  of  his  troops,  and  disputed  the  ground  with  the  Chinese ;  hut 
unfortunately  he  was  killed  ;  his  troops  gave  way  ;  and  the  victori- 
ous invaders,  after  pillaging  and  setting  fire  to  the  royal  abode,  and 
making  five  thousand  slaves,  returned  to  China. 

It  is  said  that  at  this  time  the  Inhabitants  of  Loo  Choo  had  nei- 
ther letters  nor  characters,  and  that  all  classes  of  society,  even  the 
king  himself,  lived  in  the  most  simple  manner.  It  does  not,  how- 
ever, appear  that  the  people  wore  entitled  to  the  appellation  of 
barbarians,  which  was  given  to  them  by  the  ambassador  of  Japan  in 
China,  nor  that  they  merited  the  title  of  poor  devils,  which  the 
word  lieu-kieu  implies  in  Japanese  ;  as  they  had  fixed  laws  for 
marriages  and  interments,  and  paid  great  respr^t  to  their  ancestors 
and  other  departed  friends  ;  and  they  had  other  well  regulated  in- 
stitutions which  fully  relieve  them  from  the  charge  of  barbarism, 
Their  count/y  was  not  so  poor  nor  so  destitute  of  valuable  produc- 
tion, or  even  of  manufactures,  but  that  Chinese  merchants  were 
glad  to  open  a  trade  with  it,  and  continue  it  through  five  dynasties 
which  successively  ruled  in  China  after  the  conquest  of  Loo  Choo 
notwithstanding  the  indifference  of  the  emperors  who,  during  that 
period,  ceased  to  exact  the  tribute  that  had  been  made  to  their  pre- 
decessors. It  is  not  improbable,  therefore,  thai  his  stigma,  which 
ought  probably  to  belong  to  Formosa — whicli.  ♦!  ugh  a  much  lar- 
ger island,  was  then  called  Little  Loo  Choo — may  have  been  at 
tached  to  the  island  we  visited  from  the  similarity  of  names. 

Chun-tien  was   said  to  be  descended  from   the  kings  of  Japan, 
but  it  is  not  known  at  what  period  his  family  settled  in  Loo  Choo.  | 
Before  he  came  to  the  throne,  ho  was  governor  of  the  town  of  Po- 
tien.     On  his  accession  his  title  was  disputed  by  a  nobleman  named  j 
Li-yong;  but  he  being  defeated  and  killed,  Chun-tien  was  acknowl- 
edged King  of  Loo  Choo  by  the  people.     Having  reigned  fifty-one 
years,  and  bestowed  many  benefits  upon  his  subjects,  whose  happi- 
ness was  his  principal  care,  he  died  at  the  age  of  seventy  two.    In  I 
this  reign  reading  and  writing  are  said  to  have  been  first  introduced  | 
from  Japan,  the  character  being  that  of  Y-rofa. 

Very  little  mention  is  made  of  the  son  and  successor  of  Chun-tien, 
but  the  reign  of  his  grandson  Y-pen  is  marked  by  the  occurrence  of  j 
a  famine   and  a  plague,  which  nearly  desolated  the  island  ;  and  by  f 
his  abdication  in  favour  of  any  person  whom  the  people  might  ap- 


[May, 

ilh  the  hmigh- 
)  Clioo  would 
,  at  being  thus 
barians,  he  put 
ts,  and  made  a 
1  king,  who  ap- 
1  himself  at  the 
B  Chinese ;  but 
and  the  victori- 
oyal  abode,  and 

J  Choc  had  nei- 
ocicty,  even  the 
t  does  not,  how- 
be  appellation  of 
iador  of  Japan  in 
'evils,  which  the 
,d  fixed  laws  for 
to  their  ancestors 
well  regulated  in- 
irge  of  barbarism, 
f  valuable  produc- 
,e  merchants  were 
ugh  five  dynasties 
test  of  Loo  Choo 
who,  during  that 
made  to  their  pre- 
lis  stigma,  which 
uo'h  a  much  lar- 
may  have  been  at 
r  of  names, 
le  kings  of  Japan, 
tied  in  Loo  Choo. 
,f  the  town  of  Po- 
I  nobleman  named 
■tien  was  acknowl- 
ig  reigned  fifty-one 
;cts,  whose  happi- 
i"  seventy  two.    In 
len  first  introduced 

jssor  of  Chun-tien, 
the  occurrence  o( 

[he  island;  and  by  | 
people  might  ap- 


1827.] 


AND  nCKRINn'fl  STRAIT. 


423 


point  to  succeed  him.  The  choice  foil  upon  Ynt-sou,  the  gover- 
nor of  a  small  town  ;  but  the  king,  desirous  of  ascertaining  wheth- 
er ho  was  a  competent  person  to  succeed  him,  first  made  liim  prime 
minister ;  and  being  at  length  satisfied  that  the  choice  of  the  people 
was  judicious,  he  abdicated  in  his  favour,  reserving  a  very  mode- 
rate provision  for  himself  and  family.  Vnt-sou  ascended  the  throne 
A.  D.  1260,  and  reigned  forty  years.  He  is  said  to  have  been  the 
first  to  levy  taxes,  and  to  have  introduced  useful  regulations  for  the 
cultivation  of  tho  joil.  In  his  reign  Ta-tao,  Ki-ki-ai,  and  other  is- 
lands in  the  north-east  and  north-west  came  under  tho  dominion  of 
Loo  Choo.  This  reign  was  also  marked  by  an  attempt  of  the  Em- 
peror of  China  to  renew  his  demand  of  tribute,  which  had  not  been 
made  for  so  many  generations  that  the  I^oo  Chooans  began  to  consid- 
er themselves  absolved  from  the  obligation.  The  Emperor  of  Chi- 
na however,  determining  not  to  relinquish  the  advantages  which 
had  been  gained  by  his  predecessor  Yang-ti,  equipped  a  fleet  for 
the  purpose  of  compelling  payment ;  but  about  this  time  China 
having  suffered  a  serious  defeat  from  the  Japanese,  and  firom  the 
kingdoms  of  Tonquin  and  Cochin  China,  and  lost  100,000  men  in 
her  expeditions  against  those  places,  disaffection  spread  throughout 
the  troops,  and  the  expedition  returned  without  even  having  reached 
its  destination. 

Ynt-sou  was  succeeded  by  his  son  Ta-tchin,  who  was  followed  by 
his  son  Ynt-see,  two  princes  much  esteemed  for  their  wisdom  and 
benevJiince.  Not  so  Yut-ching,  a  prince  of  avaricious  and  volup- 
tuous disposition,  who  ascended  the  throne  of  his  father  in  1314  ; 
during  whose  reign  the  state  fell  into  considerable  disorder.  The 
governor  of  Keng-koaey-gin,  revolted  and  decla-sd  himself  King  of 
Chanpe,  the  northern  province  of  the  island.  The  governor  of  Ta- 
li also  revolted,  and  bacame  king  of  the  southern  province  Chan-nan, 
leaving  Yut-ching  to  govern  only  the  centre  of  the  ifland,  which 
was  called  Tchong-chan.  Thus  this  island,  not  sixty  miles  in 
length,  divided  into  three  independent  kingdoms.  The  greatest  an- 
imosity prevailed  between  these  three  principalities,  and  long  and 
bloody  wars  ensued.  About  sixty  years  after  the  country  had  been 
thus  divided,  Tsay-tou,  a  prince  beloved  by  his  people  and  esteem- 
ed for  his  valour,  came  to  the  throne  of  the  middle  province.  It 
was  in  his  reign  that  Hong-vou,  the  Emperor  of  China,  renewed 
overtures  of  protection  ;  and  the  embassy  which  he  sent  to  the  court 
of  Tsay-tou  acquitted  itself  so  creditably,  that  the  offer  was  accept- 
ed. The  kings  of  the  other  districts  of  Loo  Choo  were  no  sooner 
apprised  of  the  conduct  of  Tsay-tou,  than  they  also  put  themselves 
under  the  protection  of  China ;  and  thus  Loo  Choo  once  more  be- 
came tributary  to  the  Celestial  Empire. 

The  Emperor  Hong-vou  was  so  much  pleased  with  ihis  conduct 


«l 


[if 


1^: 


'  \ 

M 


i 


424 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Mai/, 


of  the  kings  of  Loo  Choo,  tliat  lie  sent  them  large  presents  of  iron, 
j)oi'celain,  and  other  articles  which  he  knew  to  be  scarce  in  iheir  do- 
ininions  ;  and  also  settled  in  the  middle  province  thirty-six  families 
from  Fochien,  \vIio  established  themselves  at  a  place  called  Kumi 
a  little  to  the  nothvvard  of  Napa-kiang.  These  people  introduced 
into  Loo  Choo  the  Chinese  written  character,  and  ceremonies  in 
honour  of  Confucius.  On  tlie  other  hand,  the  kings  of  Loo  Ciioo 
sent  several  youths  to  Pekin,  among  whom  were  the  sons  and  brod). 
crs  Tsay-tou,  who  were  educated  and  brought  up  at  the  expense  of 
the  em])eror. 

The  best  und  rsianding  now  existed  between  the  kings  of  Loo 
Choo  and  the  court  of  China  ;  and  while  the  emperor  was  receiv- 
ing ambassadors  from  Loo  Choo,  that  country  had  the  satisfaction 
of  seeing  several  islands  to  the  northward  and  southward  of  its  own 
position  added  to  its  dominions.  On  the  death  of  Tsay-tou,  wiiicii 
happened  in  1396,  his  son  Au-ning  was  installed  king  by  the  em- 
peror in  the  place  of  his  father.  He  reinged  ten  years,  and  was 
succeeded  by  his  son  Is-tchao.  The  reigns  of  these  two  princ- 
es were  not  distinguished  by  any  remarkable  events ;  but  that  of 
their  successor,  Change-patche,  will  ever  be  remembered  by  liie 
Loo  Chooans  from  the  advantageous  union  of  the  free  provinces, 
for  nearly  a  centu./  had  been  agitated  by  a  continued  state  of  war- 
fore  ;  and  from  the  estimation  in  which  the  king  of  the  island  was 
he>d  by  Suent-song,  then  emperor  of  China,  who  made  him  large 
presents  of  silver,  and  bestowed  upon  him  the  title  of  Chang,  which 
has  ever  since  been  the  patronymic  of  the  royal  family  of  Loo  Choo. 

The  three  following  reigns  p»'esent  no  occurrences  worthy  of  no- 
tice. In  1456,  the  Chang-tai-kieou  ascended  the  throne  amidst 
difficulties  and  dii3i»fr3Ction.  His  ambitious  brother  disputed  the  el- 
evated rank  he  had  obtained,  and  enlisted  in  his  cause  so  powerful  a 
body  of  the  islanders,  that  the  king  was  defeated,  his  palace  burned, 
and  liis  magazines  reduced  to  ashes.  In  this  state  of  affairs  he  so- 
licited (lie  protection  of  the  emperor  of  China,  who  readily  assisted 
him  ;  and  not  only  restored  tranquilily  to  the  island  by  his  interfer- 
ence, but  caused  tlie  king  to  be  "'emunerated  for  all  his  losses. 

The  commerce  of  lioo  Choo  with  China  afterwards  daily  increas- 
ed ;  and  under  the  reign  of  tliis  prince  so  great  a  trade  was  carried 
on  between  the  two  countnes,  that  the  provinces  of  Tche-kiang  and 
Fochien  vv'er«-  distressed  by  the  quantity  of  silver  and  copper  coin 
that  was  tarried  awr.y  to  Loo  Choo  The  people  even  complained 
to  the  Emperor  of  the  scarcity,  who  ordered  that  in  future  t!ie  trade 
between  these  f.vo  places  should  be  confined  within  certain  limits. 
After  a  short  reign  of  seven  years,  Chang-tf  i-kieou  was  succeed- 
ed by  liis  son  Chang-te,  a  prince  whose  name  was  rendered  odious 
by  the  arts  of  cruelty  J;e  committed,  and  who  was  so  mucij  detesi- 


*^, 


^mmmm. 


mmmmmmmm 


mm 


■^"^ 


1827.] 


AND    RF.F.RINO  S    STRAIT. 


425 


le  kings  of  Loo 
eror  was  receiv- 
the   satisfaction 
iward  of  its  own 
["say-tou,  wliicli 
ing  by  the  em- 
1  years,  and  was 
these  two  princ- 
ints ;  but  that  of 
embered  by  liie 
le  free  provinces, 
ued  state  of  war- 
,f  the  island  was 
made  him  large 
of  Chang,  wliich 
nilyofLooChoo. 
;es  worthy  of  no- 
he  thione  amidst 
jr  disputed  the  el- 
Luseso  powerful  a 
[lis  palace  buined, 
s  of  affairs  he  so- 
0  readily  assisted 
d  by  his  interfer- 
lU  his  losses, 
ards  daily  increas- 
Lrade  was  carried 
,f  Tche-kiang  and 
[and  copper  coin 
.  even  complained 
n  future  tlie  trade 
[in  certain  limits. 
^ou  was  succeed- 
rendered  odious 
so  much  detest- 


ed, that  after  his  death  the  people  refused  to  acknowledge  as  king 
the  person  whom  he  had  appointed  to  succeed  him  ;  and  elected  in 
his  stead  Chan-y-ven,  a  nobleman  of  the  island  of  Yo-pi-chan. 
Though  the  reign  of  this  prince  is  distinguished  in  history  only  by 
the  regulation  of  the  number  of  persons  who  should  accompany  the 
ambassadors  to  Pekin,  yet  he  is  said  to  have  been  a  great  prince. 
His  son,  Chang-tchin?j,  was  a  minor  at  the  death  of  his  father,  and 
his  paternal  uncle  was  chosen  to  be  his  protector.  In  this  reign  Loo 
Choo  became  a  comparatively  great  commercial  nation.  Many 
vessels  were  sent  to  the  Formosa,  to  the  coasts  of  Bungo,  Fionga, 
Satzuma,  Corea,  and  other  places.  Her  vessels  became  the  carri- 
ers of  Japanese  produce  to  China,  and  vice  versa;  and  one  of  them 
even  mtde  the  voyage  to  Malacca. 

By  this  extensive  trade,  and  by  bein-^  the  entrepot  between  the 
two  empires  of  China  und  Japan,  Loo  Choo  increased  in  wealth 
and  rose  ii;to  notice  ;  especially  as  it  was  found  convenient  by  both 
these  two  great  nations  to  have  a  mediator  on  any  differences  aris- 
ing betweei  them.  The  advantage  thus  derived  by  Loo  Choo  was 
puilicuiari)'  manifested  on  t.ie  occasion  of  a  remonstrance  on  the 
part  of  China  against  robberies  and  piracies  committed  upon  the 
sliores  of  that  country  by  a  prodigious  number  of  vessels  manned  by 
resolute  and  determined  seamen,  principally  Japanese,  who  landed 
upon  all  parts  of  the  coast,  and  spread  consternation  along  the  whole 
of  the  western  shore  of  the  yellow  Sea,  even  down  to  Canton.  The 
EmpciOr  of  China  on  this  occasion  sent  ambassadors  to  Loo  Choo ; 
and  a  representation  was  made  to  the  Court  of  Japan  of  the  numer- 
ous piracies  committed  in  the  dominions  of  the  Emperor  of  China 
by  the  subjects  of  that  country  ;  and  succeeded  so  far  that  the  sove- 
reign of  Japan  gave  up  to  the  King  of  Loo  Choo  a  number  of  ves- 
sels and  slaves  which  had  been  captured  ;  but  as  none  of  these  ma- 
rauding vessels  had  been  fitted  out  by  his  command,  and  as  they 
were  the  property  of  individuals  over  whom  he  had  no  control,  it 
was  out  of  his  power  to  put  a  stop  to  the  depredations.  The  Em- 
peror of  China  rewarded  the  King  of  Loo  Choo  for  this  important 
service  by  sending  him  large  presents  of  silk,  porcelain,  and  silver, 
and  brass  money  ;  and  granted  to  his  suVijects  very  great  privileges 
in  their  commercial  transactions  with  China. 

The  Japanese  pirates,  among  which  there  were  a  great  many  ves- 
sels manned  by  Chinese,  continued  their  depredations  in  spite  of  the 
efforts  and  remonstrances  of  the  Emperor  of  China  ;  and  latterly 
occasioned  such  alarm  in  that  country,  that  the  famous  Tay-Cosa- 
ma,  who  was  then  secular  ruler  of  Japan,  determined  to  avail  him- 
self of  the  panic,  and  premeditated  an  attack  upon  the  coast  of  that 
mighty  empire.  It  was  necessary  to  the  success  of  this  bold  enter- 
piise  that  the  assault  should  be  conducted  with  the  utmost  secrecy  ; 

6*^ 


r 


t 

i 

1    -':      f 
V 

V 

' 

'         ».■ 

1^  f -! 


^' 


U 


^ju.^.jvifiju.«r7=<nMfggHi 


42G 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


-^      [May, 

and  Tay-Cosama,  fearing  that  the  frequent  intercourse  between 
China  and  Loo  Choo,vvhic)i  country  could  not  remain  in  ignorance  of 
the  preparations,  might  be  the  means  of  divulging  his  intentions  to 
China,  sent  ambassadors  to  Chang-ning,  who  was  then  King  of  Loo 
Choo,  haughtily  forbidding  him  to  pay  tribute  to  China,  and  desir- 
ing him  to  acknowledge  no  other  sovereign  than  that  of  Japan.  Jt 
is  said  that  he  also  sent  similar  notices  to  the  governor  of  the  Phi- 
1  ippines,  to  the  King  of  Siam,  and  to  the  Europeans  in  India. 

Chang-ning,  however,  was  not  easily  intimidated,  and  remained 
deaf  to  tiie  menaces  of  the  Emperor  of  Japan.  He  saw  through  the 
designs  of  Tay-Cosama  ;  and  by  means  of  a  rich  Chinese  mcrcliuit, 
who  happened  to  be  at  Napa-kiang  at  the  time,  he  apprised  Ouan- 
li,  then  Emperor  of  China,  of  his  designs.  Ouan-li  immediately  in- 
creased his  array,  fortified  his  coasts,  and  made  every  preparation 
for  a  vigorous  deience  against  the  invading  army  of  Japan,  whenev- 
er it  might  arrive.  He  also  apprised  Corea  of  the  danger  with 
which  that  state  was  threatened ;  but  the  king,  misled  probably  by 
the  designing  Emperor  of  Japan,  and  imagining  the  immense  pre- 
parations making  by  that  prince  were  intended  for  the  invasion  of 
China,  neglected  to  strengthen  his  defences,  and  was  at  length  sur- 
prised by  the  Japanese,  who  invaded  his  dominions. 

Chang-ning,  notwithstanding  the  invasion  with  which  he  was  also 
threatened,  continued  his  tribute  to  China;  and  Ouan-li  received 
his  ambassadors  with  the  greatest  possible  respect,  and  rewarded 
their  sovereign  for  his  fidelity.  Some  years  after,  in  1610,  the  Ja- 
panese renewed  their  menaces  against  Chang-ning,  who,  as  on  the 
former  occasion,  acquainted  the  Emperorof  China  with  his  situation, 
and  implored  assistance  ;  but  China  at  that  time  was  fully  occupied 
with  her  own  troubles,  and  unable  to  render  him  any  service.  In 
this  state  of  things,  a  nobleman  of  Loo  Choo,  named  King-tchanf;, 
taking  advantage  of  the  situation  of  Chang-ning,  revolted,  and  retir- 
ed to  Satzuma,  where  he  fitted  out  an  expedition  consisting  of  ;3000 
Japanese,  and  t-iok  Chang-ning  prisoner,  killed  his  father,  Tching- 
hoey,  because  he  would  not  acknowledge  his  dependency  to  Japan, 
pillaged  the  royal  palace,  and  carried  away  the  king  prisoner  to 
Satzuma. 

The  conduct  of  the  King  of  Loo  Choo  throughout  all  these  dis- 
turbances is  said  to  have  been  so  magnanimous  and  spirited,  that  it 
even  appeased  King-tchang,  and  prepossessed  the  Japanese  so  much 
in  his  favour,  that  after  two  years'  captivity  they  restored  him  to  hi; 
throne  with  honour.  He  w^as  scarcely  reinstated,  when,  always 
faithful  to  China,  notwithstanding  the  danger  he  had  escaped,  aiid 
the  helpless  condition  of  the  emperor,  he  sent  ambassadors  to  that 
country  to  declare  his  submission  as  heretofore  ;  and  to  apprise  the 
emperor  of  an  attack  which  was  intended  to  be  made  on  Formosa  by 


1827.]    .#■ 


AND    BEERINO'S  STRAIT. 


427 


the  Japanese,  who  had  conceived  the  project  of  reinstating  them- 
selves in  that  country,  and  fortifying  their  settlements  there. 

Chang-ning  left  no  son  to  succeed  him ;  and  Chang-yong,  a  de- 
scendant of  the  brother  of  his  predecessor,  was  installed  by  the  Em- 
peror of  China  in  his  stead.  This  prince,  notwithstanding  the  un- 
settled Gtaie  of  aftairs,  and  the  danger  he  had  to  apprehend  from 
Japan,  paid  the  usual  tribute  to  China,  and  introduced  into  his  coun- 
try from  thence  the  manufacture  of  delft-ware,  and  an  inferior  kind 
of  porcelain. 

About  eighty  years  afterwards,  A.  D.  1643,  the  famous  revolu- 
tion occurred  in  China,  which  fixed  the  Tartar  dynasty  on  the  throne 
of  that  empire  ;  and  Change-tche,  who  at  that  time  was  King  of 
Loo  Choo,  sent  ambassadors  to  pay  homage  to  the  new  sovereign  ; 
when  King  Chang-tche  received  a  sign  manual  from  the  Tartar 
monarch,  directing  that  Loo  Choo  should  not  pay  tribute  oftener 
than  once  in  two  years,  and  that  the  number  of  the  embassy  should 
not  exceed  a  hundred  and  fifty  persons. 

In  1663  the  great  Emperor  Kang-hi  succeeded  to  the  throne  of 
China,  and  recuived  tlie  tribute  of  Chang-tche  on  the  occasion. 
This  magnanimous  prince  sent  large  presents  of  his  own  to  the  King 
of  Loo  Choo,  in  addition  to  some  of  an  equally  superb  quality  which 
were  intended  for  that  country  by  his  father.  His  ambassadors  pas- 
sed over  to  Loo  Choo,  and  according  to  custom  confirmed  the  king 
in  his  sovereignty,  the  ceremony  on  this  occasion  being  distinguish- 
ed by  additional  grandeur  and  solemnity. 

Kang-hi  probably  foreseeing  the  advantages  to  be  derived  from 
an  alliance  with  Loo  Choo,  which  had  so  long  continued  faithful  to 
the  empire  of  China,  turned  his  attention  to  the  improvement  of  the 
country  with  great  earnestness  and  perseverance.  He  built  a  pal- 
ace there  in  honour  of  Confucius,  and  a  college  for  the  instruction 
of  youth  in  the  use  of  the  Chinese  character,  and  established  exam- 
inations for  different  branches  of  literature.  Several  natives  of  Loo 
Choo  were  sent  to  Pekin,  and  educated  at  the  expense  of  the  em- 
peror, among  whom  was  the  king's  son.  The  tribute  was  better 
adapted  to  the  means  of  the  people ;  and  those  articles  only,  which 
were  either  the  produce  of  the  soil,  or  the  manufactures  of  the  coun- 
try, were  in  future  to  be  sent  to  Pekin  for  this  purpose.  In  short 
Kang-hi  lost  no  opportunity  of  gaining  the  friendship  a-.ul  esteem  of 
his  subjects.  On  the  occasion  of  great  distress  in  Loo  Choo,  which 
occurred  in  1708,  when  the  palace  of  the  king  was  burned,  and 
hurricanes  did  incalculable  mischief,  and  when  the  people  w^ie  dying 
daily  with  contagious  diseases,  Kang-hi  used  every  endeavour  to 
mitigate  their  distress,  and,  by  his  humanity  and  generosity  scrcued 
to  himself  the  lasting  gratitude  of  the  inhabitants  of  Loo  Choo. 

lu  1711)  ho  sent  Supao-koang,  u  learned  physician,  to  make  him- 


i  ♦• 


428 


VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[May, 


Ui 


self  acquainted  with  the  nature  and  productions  of  the  island,  and  to 
inform  himselfofevery  particular  concerning  the  government  and  the 
people.  Since  that  period  nothing  is  mentioned  of  Loo  Choo  in 
Chinese  history,  beyond  the  periodical  payment  of  the  tribute,  and 
the  arrival  of  ambassadors  from  that  country  at  the  court  of  Pekin. 

In  1771  the  well  known  Count  Benyowsky  touched  at  an  island 
belonging  to  Loo  Choo,  named  Usmay  Liagon,  where  he  found 
that  almost  all  the  inhabitants  had  been  converted  to  Christianitv 
by  a  Jesuit  missionary.  If  we  can  credit  his  statement,  he  was  treat- 
ed by  the  natives  with  the  greatest  hospitality  and  unreserve. 
Contrary  to  the  custom  of  the  eastern  Asiatic  nations,  these  people 
brought  their  daughters  to  the  count  and  his  associates,  and  pressed 
them  to  select  wives  from  among  them.  In  short,  the  conduct  of 
the  inhabitants  is  described  as  being  so  engaging,  that  some  of  Ben- 
yowsky's  crew  determined  to  remain  with  them,  and  were  actually 
left  behind  when  the  count  put  to  sea.  And  the  natives,  on  the 
other  hand  are  asserted  to  ha  ^e  been  so  attached  to  their  visitors, 
that  they  made  them  promise  to  return  and  form  a  settlement 
among  them,  and  signed  a  treaty  of  friendship  with  the  count. 
This  veracious  traveller  found  muskets  with  matchlocks  in  use  with 
these  people ;  ax  J  to  add  to  their  means  of  defence,  on  his  depar- 
ture he  presented  them  with  80  muskets  of  his  own,  600  swords, 
and  600  pikes,  besides  20  barrels  of  powder  and  10  barrels  of  mus- 
ket b)ili3. 

Loo  Choo  in  1796  was  visited  by  Captain  Broughton,  and  in 
1803  by  the  ship  Frederick  of  Calcutta,  which  made  an  unsuccess- 
ful effort  to  dispose  of  her  cargo.  The  inhabitants  on  both  these 
occasions  were  as  usual,  extremely  civil  and  polite,  but  resisted 
every  attempt  at  opening  a  commerce.  The  next  mention  of  this 
interesting  island  is  in  the  well  known  publications  of  Captain  Basil 
Hall,  and  Mr.  M'Cleod,  the  surgeon  of  the  Alceste. 

Thus  Loo  Choo,  like  almost  every  other  nation,  has  been  distur- 
bed by  c'vil  wars,  and  the  state  has  been  endangered  by  foreign  in- 
vasion :  her  towns  have  been  plundered,  her  palaces  consumed,  and 
her  citizens  cari.ed  into  captivity.  Situated  between  the  empires 
of  Chiija  and  Japan,  she  has  been  mixed  up  with  their  quarrels, 
and  made  subservient  to  the  interests  of  both  ;  at  one  time  suffering 
all  the  miseries  of  invasion,  and  at  another  acting  as  a  mediator, 
Allied  by  preference  to  China,  and  by  fear  and  necessity,  from  her 
proximity,  to  Japan,  she  is  obliged  to  avoid  jealousy,  to  pay  tribute 
to  both,  though  that  to  the  latter  country  is  said  to  be  furnished  by 
the  merchants  who  are  most  interested  in  the  trade  to  that  em- 
pire. Their  conduct  to  strangers  who  have  touched  at  their  ports 
has  ever  been  uniformly  polite  and  hospitable.  But  they  would 
rather  be  exempt  from  such  friendly   visits :  and  though  cxtronicly 


1827.] 


AND    BEERING'S    STRAIT. 


429 


desirous  of  obtaining  European  manufactures,  particularly  cloth,  ho- 
siery, and  cutlery,  they  would  oppose  any  open  attempt  to  introduce 
them.  The  most  likely  means  of  establishing  a  communication  with 
them  would  be  through  Chinese  merchants  at  Canton,  who  might 
be  persuaded  to  send  goods  there  in  their  own  names,  and  under 
the  charge  of  their  own  countrymen. 

Whale-ships  have  occasionally  touched  at  Loo  Choo  when  dis- 
tressed for  provisions.  It  is  satisfactory  to  find  that  these  interviews 
have  been  conducted  without  giving  offence  to  the  natives.  It  is  to 
be  hoped  that  any  vessel  which  may  hereafter  be  under  the  neces- 
sity of  putting  in  there  will  preserve  the  same  conduct,  and  give  the 
inhabitants  no  cause  to  regret  having  extended  their  hospitality  to 
foreigners. 

I  have  perhaps  entered  more  minutely  upon  several  questions 
connected  with  Loo  Choo  than  may  be  considered  necessary,  after 
what  has  already  been  given  to  the  public ;  but  it  appeared  desi- 
rable to  remove  doubts  upon  several  points  of  interest,  which  could 
not  perhaps  be  nffectually  accomplished  without  combining  iry  re- 
marks with  a  short  notice  of  the  history  of  the  country. 


I    >■ 


'^ 


430 


VOVAGE  TO    THE  PACIFIC 


[June, 


:) 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


1 


Passaafc  from  Loo  Choo  eastward — Arrive  at  Port  Lloyd  in  the  Yalas  del  Azobispo— 
Description  of  those  Islands — Pussagc  to  Kamaschatka — Arrival  at.  Pctropaulaky 
— Notice  of  tliat  Place — Departure — Pass  Bccring's  Strait — Knter  Kotzcljue 
Sound — Prosecute  the  Voyage  to  the  Northward — Stopped  by  the  Ice — Return 
to  the  Southward— Discover  Port  Clarence  and  Grantley  Harbour — Description 
of  these  Harbours — Return  to  Kotzebuo  Sound — Sliip  strikes  upon  a  Shoul. 

On  tlie  25th  of  May  we  took  our  departure  from  Loo  Choo,  and 
steered  to  the  eastward  in  search  of  some  islands  which  were  doubt- 
fully placed  in  the  charts.  On  the  third  day  we  arrived  within  a 
few  miles  of  the  situation  of  Amsterdam  Island  without  seeing  any 
land,  and  passed  it  to  the  northward,  as  near  as  the  wind  would 
permit.  The  weather  was  very  unfavourable  for  discoveiy,  being 
thick  and  rainy,  or  misty,  with  very  variable  winds.  On  the  third 
of  June  we  regretted  exceedingly  not  having  clear  weather,  as  the 
appearance  of  plover,  sandlings,  flocks  of  shear-waters,  and  several 
petrel  and  albatrosses,  created  a  belief  that  we  were  near  some  is- 
land. 

Three  days  afterwards  we  were  upon  the  spot  where  the  Island  of 
Disappointment  is  placed  on  the  latest  chf-ts.  The  weather  was 
tolerably  clear,  but  no  land  could  be  seen  ;  und  as  we  were  so  near 
the  situation  of  a  group  of  islands  which,  if  in  existence,  would  oc- 
cupy several  days  in  examining,  I  did  not  wait  to  search  for  Disaj)- 
pointment  Island,  which  is  said  to  be  very  small.  1  have  since 
been  informed  that  this  island,  which  in  all  probability  is  the  same 
as  the  island  of  Rosario,  was  seen  by  a  whaler,  who,  not  being  able 
to  find  it  a  second  time,  bestowed  upon  it  the  name  of  Invisible  Is- 
land. It  is  said  to  lie  ninety  miles  N.  W.  from  Port  Lloyd,  a  place 
which  I  shall  presently  notice. 

The  next  evening  wc  reached  the  situation  of  the  Bonin  Islands 
in  Arrowsi.Mth's  chart,  and  the  following  morning  made  sail  as  usual 
without  seeing  any  hind.  We  were  almost  on  the  point  of  declar- 
ing them  invisible  also,  when  after  having  stood  to  the  eastward  a 
few  hours,  we  had  the  satisfaction  to  descry  several  islands  exten- 
ding in  u  north  and  south  direction  as  far  as  iho   eye  could  discern. 


[June, 


1827.] 


AND    DFERTNo's    STRAIT 


431 


m 


las  del  Azobispo — 
i\  ai.  Pttropaulsky 
-Kilter  Ki)tzcl)ue 
r  the  Ice — Return 
bour — DcBcriptioii 
poll  a  Slioal. 

Loo  Choc,  and 
ch  weve  doubt- 
arrived  witli'm  a 
liout  seeing  any 
the  wind  would 
discovery,  being 
.  On  the  tliird 
weather,  as  the 
ers,  and  several 
Ire  near  some  is- 

jre  the  Island  of 
[he  weather  was 
^ve  were  so  near 
snce,  would  oc- 
iarch  for  Disap- 
ll.     1  have  since 
ility  is  the  same 
»,  not  being  able 
of  Invisible  Is- 
[t  Lloyd,  a  place 

le  Bonin  Islands 

ide  sail  as  usual 

point  of  dcclar- 

the  eastward  a 

il  islands  extcii- 

|c  could  discern. 


They  ail  appeared  to  be  small,  yet  they  were  high  and  very  remar- 
kable ;  particularly  one  near  tlie  centre,  which  l  named  after  Cap- 
tain Kater,  V.  P.  R.  S.  &c. 

As  the  islands  to  the  southward  appeared  to  be  the  largest  I  pro- 
posed to  examine  them  first :  and  finding  they  were  fertile,  and 
likely  to  afford  good  anchorage,  Lieutenant  Belcher  was  sent  on  shore 
with  a  boat  to  search  for  a  harbour.  In  the  evening  he  returned 
with  a  favourable  report,  and  with  a  supply  of  fourteen  large  green 
turtle. 

We  stood  ofF  and  on  for  the  night  with  very  thick  weather ;  and 
at  daylight,  when  by  our  reckoning  the  ship  should  have  been  sev- 
en miles  from  the  land,  we  unexpectedly  saw  the  fog,  about  a  fifth 
of  a  mile  distant,  and  had  but  just  room  to  clear  them  by  going  about. 
The  depth  of  the  water  at  that  time  was  sixty  fathoms ;  so  that  had 
it  bejn  blowing  strong  and  necessary  to  anchor,  there  would  have 
been  but  an  indift'erent  prospect  of  holding  on  any  length  of  time. 
The  great  depth  of  water,  and  the  strong  currents  which  set  be- 
tween the  islands  iiiust  make  the  navigation  near  them  hazardous 
during  thick  weather.  On  the  evening  preceding  this  unexpected 
event,  we  found  so  strong  a  current  setting  to  the  south-west,  to 
windward,  that,  though  the  ship  was  lying  to,  it  was  necessary  fre- 
quently to  bear  away,  to  prevent  being  drifted  upon  the  land. 

When  the  fog  cleared  away  on  the  9th,  we  discovered  a  distant 
cluster  of  islands  bearing  S.  5"  E.  true  :  I  therefore  declined  an- 
choring in  the  bay  which  Lieutenant  Belcher  had  examined  the 
preceding  evening,  in  the  hope  of  being  able  to  examine  the  newly 
discovered  islands  ;  but,  finding  both  current  and  wind  against  us, 
and  that  the  ship  could  scarcely  gain  ground  in  that  direction — as 
there  was  no  time  to  be  lost,  I  returned  to  those  first  discovered. 
In  running  along-shore  we  observed  an  opening,  which,  appearing 
to  afford  better  security  than  the  before-mentioned  bay,  the  master 
was  sent  to  explore  ;  and  returned  with  the  welcome  intelligence  of 
having  found  a  secure  harbour,  in  which  the  ship  might  remain  with 
all  winds. 

We  were  a  little  surprised,  when  we  came  back,  to  find  two 
strangers  in  the  boat,  for  we  had  no  idea  that  these  islands  had  been 
recently  visited,  much  less  that  there  were  any  residents  upon  them  ; 
and  we  concluded  that  some  unfortunate  vessel  had  been  cast  away 
I  upon  the  island.  They  proved  to  be  part  of  the  crew  of  a  whale- 
ship  belonging  to  London,  named  the  William.  This  ship,  which 
I  had  once  belonged  to  his  majesty's  service,  had  been  anchored  in 
die  harbour  in  deep  water,  and  in  rather  an  exposed  situation  (the 
port  then  not  being  well  known,)  and  had  part  of  her  cargo  upon 
deck,  when  a  violent  gust  of  wind  from  the  land  drove  her  from  her 
anchors,  and  she  struck  upon  a  rock  in  a  small  bay  close  to  the  en- 


,  i 


m'  ^^ 


*i 


! 


432  VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC  [Jltnc 

trance,  where  in  a  short  time  she  went  to  pieces.     All  the  crew  es- 
caped, and  established  themselves  on  shore  as  well  as  they  could 
and  immediately  commenced  building  a  vessel  from  the  wreck  of 
the  ship,in  which  they  intended  to  proceed  to  Manilla ;  but  before  she 
was  completed,  another  whaler,  the  Timor,  arrived,  and  carried  them 
all  away  except  our  two  visiters,  who  remained  behind  at  their  own 
request.     They  had  been  several  months  upon  the  island,  durini; 
which  time  they  had  not  shaved  or  paid  any  attention  to  their  dress 
and  were  very  odd-looking  beings.     The  master,  Thomas  Younger 
had  unfortunately  been  killed  by  the  fall  of  a  tree  fifteen  days  pre- 
vious to  the  loss  of  the  ship,  and  was  buried  in  a  sandy  bay  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  harbour. 

We  entered  the  port  and  came  to  an  anchor  in  the  upper  part  of 
it  in  eighteen  fathoms,  almost  land-locked.  This  harbour  is  situat- 
ed in  the  largest  island  of  the  cluster,  and  has  its  entrance  conspicu- 
ously marked  by  a  bold  high  promontory  on  the  southern  side,  and 
a  tall  quion-shaped  rock  on  the  other.  It  is  nearly  surrounded  by 
hills,  and  the  plan  of  it  upon  paper  suggests  the  idea  of  its  being  an 
extinguished  crater.  Almost  every  valley  has  a  stream  of  water, 
and  the  mountains  are  clothed  with  trees,  among  which  the  areca 
oleracea  and  fan-palms  are  conspicuous.  There  are  several  sandy 
bays,  in  which  green  turtle  are  sometimes  so  numerous  that  they 
quite  hide  the  colour  of  the  shore.  The  sea  yields  an  abundance 
of  fish  ;  the  rocks  and  caverns  are  the  resort  of  crayfish  and  other 
shellfish ;  and  the  shores  are  the  refuge  of  snipes,  plovers,  and  wild 
pigeons.  At  the  upper  part  of  the  port  there  is  a  small  basin,  form- 
ed by  coral  reefs,  conveniently  adapted  for  heaving  a  ship  down ; 
and  on  the  whole  it  is  a  most  desirable  place  of  resort  for  a  whale- 
ship.  By  a  board  nailed  against  a  tree,  it  appeared  that  the  port 
had  been  entered  in  September,  1825,  by  an  English  ship  named 
the  Supply,  which  I  believe  to  be  the  first  authenticated  visit  made 
to  the  place. 

Taking  possession  of  uninhabited  islands  is  now  a  mere  matter  of 
forn^  t  still  I  could  not  allow  so  fair  an  opportunity  to  escape,  and 
decii.  ;d  them  to  be  the  property  of  the  British  government  by  nail- 
ing a  sheet  of  copper  to  a  tree,  with  the  necessary  particulars  en- 
graved upon  it.  As  the  harbour  had  no  name,  I  called  it  Port  Lloyd, 
oi't  of  regard  to  the  late  Bishop  of  Oxford.  The  island  in  which  it 
lu  ituated  I  named  after  Sir  Robert  Peel,  His  Majesty's  Secretary 
of  State  for  the  Home  Department. 

As  we  rowed  on  shore  towards  the  basin,  which,  in  consequence 
of  there  being  ten  fathoms  water  all  over  it,  was  named  Ten  Fath- 
om Hole,  we  were  surrounded  by  sharks  so  daring  and  voracious  I 
that  they  bit  at  the  oars  and  the  boat's  rudder,  and  though  wounded 
with  the  boat-hook  returned  several  times  to  the  attack.     At  tlie  j 


1827.] 


AND    BEERINC  3    STRAIT. 


433 


a  mere  matter  of 
y  to  escape,  aud 
vernment  by  nail- 
r  particulars  en- 
led  it  Port  Lloyd, 
island  in  which  it 
jesty's  Secretary 

.,  in  consequence 

amed  Ten  Fath- 

Hng  and  voracious  j 

1  though  wounded 

attack.     At  tlie 


upper  end  of  Ten  Fatiiom  Hole  there  were  a  great  many  green  tur- 
tle ;  and  the  boat's  crew  were  sent  to  turn  some  of  them  for  our  sea- 
stock.  The  sharks,  to  the  number  of  forty  at  least,  as  soon  as  they 
observed  tliese  animals  in  confusion,  rusiied  in  amongst  them,  and 
to  the  great  danger  of  our  people,  endeavoured  to  seize  them  by  the 
fins,  several  of  which  we  noticed  to  have  been  bitten  off.  The  tur- 
tle weighed  from  three  to  four  hundred-weight  each,  and  were  so 
inactive  that,  had  there  been  a  sufficient  number  of  men,  the  whole 
shoal  might  have  been  turned, 

Wittrein  and  his  companion,  the  men  whom  we  found  upon  the 
island,  were  living  on  the  south  side  of  the  harbour,  in  a  house  built 
from  the  planks  of  the  William,  upon  a  substantial  foundation  of 
copper  bolts,  procured  from  the  wreck  of  the  ship  by  burning  the 
timbers.  They  had  a  number  of  fine  fat  hogs,  a  well  stocked  pig- 
eon-house, and  several  gardens,  in  which  there  were  growing  pump- 
kins, water-melons,  potatoes,  sweet  potatoes,  and  fricoli  beans ;  and 
they  had  planted  forty  cocoa-nuts  in  other  parts  of  tlie  bay.  In 
such  an  establishment  Wittrein  found  himself  very  comfortable,  and 
contemplated  getting  a  wife  from  the  Sandwich  Islands ;  but  I  am 
sorry  to  find  that  he  soon  relinquished  the  idea,  and  that  there  is 
now  no  person  to  take  care  of  the  garden,  which  by  due  manage- 
ment might  have  become  extremely  useful  to  whale-ships,  tht  crews 
of  which  are  often  afflicted  with  the  scurvy  by  their  arrival  at  this 
part  of  their  voyage.  The  pigs,  I  have  since  learned,  have  become 
wild  and  numerous,  and  will  in  a  short  time  destroy  all  the  roots, 
if  not  the  cabbage-trees,  which  at  the  time  of  our  visit  were  in 
abundance,  and,  besides  being  a  delicate  vegetable,  were  no  doubt 
an  excellent  antiscorbutic. 

We  learned  from  Wittrein,  who  had  resided  eight  months  upon 
the  island,  that  in  the  January  of  1826  it  had  been  visited  by  a  tre- 
mendous storm,  and  an  earthquake  which  shook  the  island  so  vio- 
lently, and  the  water  at  the  same  time  rose  so  high,  that  he  and  his 
companion,  thinking  the  island  about  to  be  swallowed  up  by  the  sea, 
fled  to  the  hills  for  safety.  This  gale,  which  resembled  the  typh- 
oons in  the  China  sea,  began  at  the  north  and  went  round  the  com- 
pass by  the  westward,  blowing  all  the  while  with  great  violence,  and 
"tearing  up  trees  by  the  roots  :  it  destroyed  the  schooner  which  the 
crew  of  the  William  had  begun  to  build,  and  washed  the  cargo  of 
the  ship,  which  since  her  wreck  had  been  floating  about  the  bay,  up 
into  the  country.  By  the  appearance  of  some  of  the  casks,  the  wa- 
ter must  have  risen  twelve  feet  above  the  usual  level.* 

We  were  informed    that  during  the   winter   there  is  much  bad 
weather  from  the  north  and  north-west ;  but  as  summer  approaches 

♦  The  seamen  affirmed  that  it  rose  twenty. 

5.5 


1^ 


f.f 


.  t; 


■M, 


»;■ 


.1 


%_. 


434 


VOYAUC  TO    TUG    PACIFIC 


[June, 


f!    ' 


lliese  winds  abate,  and  are  succeeded  by  others  from  tlie  southward 
and  south-east- ward,  which  prevail  throughout  tliat  season,  and 
are  generally  attended  with  fine  weather,  with  the  exception  of  foes 
which  are  very  prevalent.  Shocks  of  earthquakes  are  frequently 
felt  during  the  winter;  and  Wittrein  and  his  companion  repeatedly 
observed  smoke  issuing  from  the  summits  of  the  hills  on  the  island  to 
the  northward.  Peel  Island,  in  which  we  anchored,  is  entirely  vol- 
canic, and  there  is  every  appearance  of  the  others  to  the  nortlnvard 
being  of  the  same  formation.  They  have  deep  water  all  round 
them,  and  ships  must  not  allow  their  safety  to  depend  upon  the 
lead,  for  although  bottom  may  be  gained  at  great  depths  between 
some  of  the  islands,  yet  that  is  not  the  case  in  other  directions. 

We  noticed  basaltic  colunms  in  several  parts  of  Port  Lloyd,  and 
in  one  place  Mr.  Collie  observed  them  divided  into  short  lengths  as 
at  the  Giant's  Causeway  ;  he  also  remarked  at  the  head  of  the  bay 
in  the  bed  of  a  small  river,  from  which  we  filled  our  water  casks, 
a  sort  of  tessellated  pavement,  composed  of  upright  angular  columns, 
placed  side  by  side,  each  about  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  separated 
by  horizontal  fissures.  It  was  the  lower  part  of  the  Giant's  Cause- 
way in  miniature.  Many  of  the  rocks  consisted  of  tuffaceous  ba- 
salt of  a  grayish  or  greenish  hue,  frequently  traversed  by  veins  of 
petrosilex  ;  and  contained  numerous  nodules  of  chalcedony  or  of 
cornelian,  and  psalma  1  The  zeolites  are  not  wanting ;  and  tlio 
stilbite,  in  the  lamellar  foliated  form,  is  abundant.  Olivine  and 
hornblc  'a  are  also  common.  The  drusses  were  often  found  con- 
taining a  watery  substance,  which  had  an  astringent  taste  not  un- 
like alum,  but  I  did  not  succeed  in  collecting  any  of  it. 

The  coral  animals  have  raised  ledges  and  reefs  of  coral  round 
almost  all  the  bays,  and  have  filled  up  the  northern  part  of  the 
harbor,  with  the  exception  of  Ten  Fathom  Hole,  which  appears  to 
be  kept  open  by  streams  of  water  running  into  it ;  for  it  was  ob- 
served here,  that  the  only  accessible  part  of  the  beach  was  at  the 
mouths  of  these  streams. 

I  have  before  observed,  that  the  hills  about  our  anchorage  were 
wooded  from  the  water's  edge  nearly  to  their  summit.  There  were 
found  among  these  trees,  besides  the  cabbage  and  fan-palms,  the 
tamanu  of  Otaheite,  the  pandanus  odoratissimus,  and,  a  species  of 
purau  ;  also  some  species  of  laurus,  of  urtica,  the  terminalia,  dodo- 
naea  viscosa,  eleocarpus  serratis,  &c.  We  collected  some  of  the 
wood  for  building  boats,  and  found  it  answer  very  well  for  knees, 
timbers,  &.c. 

We  saw  no  wild  animals  of  the  mammalia  class  except  the  vam- 
pire bat,  which  was  very  tame.  Some  measured  three  feet  across 
the  wings  when  fully  extended,  and  were  eight  or  nine  inches  in 
length  in  the    body.     We  frequently  saw   them  flying ;  but  they 


>. 


-*.. 


1827.] 


AND    BUKHING  !>    STItAlT. 


433 


were  more  fond  of  climbing  about  the  trees,  and  lianging  by  ilieir 
hind  claw,  which  appears  to  be  their  natural  position  when  feeding. 
Some  were  observed  with  their  young  at  their  breast,  concealed  by 
the  wide  membrane  of  their  wing.  The  tongue  of  this  animal  is 
unusually  large,  and  furnished  with  fleshy  papilla;  on  the  upper 
surface.     Here  we  also  found  another  species  of  vespertilio. 

Of  birds  we  saw  some  handsome  brown  herons  with  white  crests, 
plovers,  rails,  snipes,  wood-pigeons,  and  the  common  black  crow;  a 
small  bird  resembling  a  canary,  and  a  grossbeak.  They  were  very 
tame,  and  until  alarmed  at  the  noise  of  a  gun,  suffered  themselves 
to  be  approached. 

The  sea  abounded  in  fish,  some  of  which  were  very  beautiful  in 
colour.  We  noticed  the  green  fish  mentioned  at  Gambier  Island, 
and  a  gold-coloured  fish  of  the  same  genus,  both  extremely  splen- 
did in  their  appearance.  A  dentex  resembling  our  carp,  a  small 
rayfish,  and  some  large  eels,  one  of  which  weighed  twenty  pounds, 
were  caught  in  the  fresh  water.  We  took  forty  four  turtles  on 
board  for  sea  stock,  besides  consuming  two  a  day  .while  we  remain- 
ed in  port,  weighing  each  about  three  hundred  weight. 

The  weather  during  our  stay  was  fine,  but  oppressively  warm  ; 
and  though  we  had  no  rain,  the  atmosphere  was  generally  saturated 
with  moisture.  There  was  a  thick  fog  to  windward  of  the  islands 
almost  the  whole  of  the  time ;  but  it  dispersed  on  its  passage  over 
the  land,  and  the  lee  side  was  generally  clear. 

While  our  operations  at  the  port  were  in  progress,  Lieutenant 
Belcher  circumnavigated  Peel's  Island  in  the  cutter,  and  discover- 
ed a  large  bay  at  the  southeast  angle  of  the  island,  which  afforded 
very  secure  anchorage  from  all  winds  except  the  south-east ;  as  this 
is  the  prevalent  wind  during  the  summer,  it  is  not  advisable  to  an- 
chor in  that  season.  I  named  it  Fitton  Bay,  in  compliment  to  Dr. 
Fitton,  late  president  of  the  Geological  Society.  Mr.  Elson  also 
was  employed  outside  of  the  harbour,  and  discovered  some  sunken 
rocks  to  the  southward  of  ihe  entrance  to  the  port,  on  which  ac- 
count ships  should  not  close  the  land  in  that  direction  so  as  to  shut 
in  two  paps  at  the  north-east  angle  of  Port  Lloyd  with  the  south 
bluff  of  the  harbour.     With  these  objects  open  there  is  no  danger. 

On  the  15th  of  June,  we  put  to  sea  from  Port  Lloyd  ;  and  find- 
ing the  wind  still  from  the  southward,  and  that  we  could  not  reach 
the  islands  in  that  direction  without  much  loss  of  time,  I  bore  away 
to  ascertain  the  northern  limit  of  the  group.  We  ran  along  the 
western  shore,  and  at  noon  on  the  16th  observed  the  meridian  alti- 
tude off  the  northernmost  islet.  The  group  consists  of  three  clus- 
ters of  islands  lying  nearly  N.  by  E.  and  extending  from  the  lat. 
of 27"  44  35'  N.  to  26"  30  N.  and  beyond,  but  that  was  the  ut- 
most 'imit  of  our  view  to  the  southward.     The  northern  cluster  con- 


>* 


SlAihkv 


436 


VdVAfJK    TO    THE    PACIVIC 


[June, 


iASts  of  small  islands  and  pointed  rocks,  and  lias  much  broken 
ground  about  it,  wbicb  runders  caution  necessary  in  approaching;  it. 
1  distinguished  it  by  the  name  of  Parry's  Group,  in  coinplinient  to 
the  late  hydrographer,  under  whose  command  1  had  the  pleasure  to 
serve  on  the  northern  expedition.  The  middle  cluster  consists  of 
three  islands,  of  which  Peel's  Island,  four  miles  and  a  fifth  in  lengtli 
is  the  largest.  This  group  is  nine  miles  and  a  quarter  in  Icngili 
and  is  divided  by  two  channels  so  narrow  that  they  can  only  be  seen 
when  abreast  of  them.  Neither  of  them  are  navigable  by  shipping, 
the  northern,  on  account  of  rocks  which  render  it  impassable  even 
by  boats,  and  the  other  on  account  of  rapid  tides  and  eddies,  whicli, 
as  there  is  no  anchoring  ground,  would  most  likely  drift  a  ship  upon 
the  rocks.  The  northorn  island  I  named  Stapleton,  and  the  cen- 
tre Buckland,  in  compliment  to  the  Professor  of  Geology  at  Ox- 
ford. At  the  south-west  angle  of  Buckland  Island  there  is  a  sandy 
bay,  in  which  ships  will  find  good  anchorage  ;  but  they  must  be 
careful  in  bringing  up  to  avoid  being  carried  out  of  soundings  by  the 
current.  I  named  it  Walker's  Bay,  after  Mr.  Walker  of  the  Hy- 
drographical  Office.  The  southern  cluster  is  evidently  that  in 
which  a  whale  ship  commanded  by  Mr.  Coffin  anchored  in  1823, 
who  was  the  first  to  communicate  its  position  to  this  country,  and 
who  bestowed  his  own  name  upon  the  port.  As  the  cluster  was, 
however,  left  without  any  distinguishing  appellation,  I  named  it  alter 
Francis  Baily,  Esq.  late  Pi-csident  of  the  Astronomical  Society. 

These  clusters  of  islands  correspond  so  well  with  a  group  named 
Yslas  del  Arzobispo  in  a  work  published  many  years  ago  in  Manil- 
la, entitled  Navigacion  Espcciilativa  y  Practica,  that  I  have  re- 
tained the  name,  in  addition  to  that  of  Bonin  Islands  ;  as  it  is  ex- 
tremely doubtful,  from  the  Japanese  accounts  of  Bonin-sima,  wlictli- 
cr  there  are  not  other  islands  in  the  vicinity,  to  which  the  latter 
name  is  not  more  applicable.  In  these  accounts,  published  by  I\l, 
Klaproth  in  his  Memoire  sur  la  Chine,  and  hy  M.  Abel  Renlu^at 
in  the  Journal  des  Savans  for  September,  1817,  it  is  said  that  tiic 
islands  of  Bonin-sima,  or  Mou-nin-sima,  consist  of  eighty-nine  islands 
of  which  two  are  large,  four  are  of  a  midling  size,  four  small  and  the 
remainder  of  the  group  consists  of  rocks.  The  two  large  islands 
are  there  said  to  be  inhabited,  and  in  the  Japanese  chart,  published 
in  the  Journal  des  Savans,  contain  several  villages  and  temples, 
They  are  stated  to  be  extremely  fertile,  to  produce  leguminous  veg- 
etables and  all  kinds  of  grain,  besides  a  great  abundance  of  pastu- 
rage and  sugar-canes,  and  the  plains  to  affori!  an  agreeable  retreat  to 
man  ;  that  there  are  lofty  palm-trees,  cocoa-nuts,  and  other  fruits ; 
sandal  wood,  camphor,  and  other  precious  trees. 

Setting  aside  the  geographical  inaccuracy  of  the  chart,  which  the 
Japanese  might  not  know  how  to  avoid,  and  the  dissagrccmcnl  of 


1827.1 


AND    DERRINn  S    STRAIT. 


437 


distances  and  proportions,  their  description  is  so  very  unlike  any 
tiling  that  vvc  found  in  these  ishuids,  that  if  the  Japanese  are  ut 
all  to  be  credited  they  cannot  be  the  same  ;  and  if  they  are  not  to 
be  behevcd,  it  may  be  doubted  whether  J3onin-sinia  is  not  an  imag- 
inary island. 

The  group  which  wc  visited  had  neither  villages,  temples,  nor 
any  remains  whatever ;  and  it  was  quite  evident  that  they  had  nev- 
er been  resided  upon.  Tiiere  were  no  cocoa-nut  trees,  no  sugar 
canes,  no  leguminous  vegetables,  nor  any  plains  for  the  cultivation 
of  grain,  the  land  being  very  steep  in  every  part,  and  overgrown 
with  tall  trees.  Neither  in  number,  size,  or  direction  will  the  Is- 
lands at  all  coincide  :  and  under  such  dissimilarities,  it  may  reason- 
ably bo  inquired  whether  it  is  possible  for  these  places  to  be  the 
same.  If  we  compare  the  number,  size,  and  shape  of  the  islands, 
or  direction  of  the  group,  there  is  a  yet  wider  discrepancy  ;  ports 
nre  placed  in  the  Japanese  map  where  none  exist  in  these  ;  rocks 
are  marked  to  the  full  number,  which  seem  only  to  create  useless 
alarm  to  the  navigator ;  and  throughout  there  is  a  neglect  of  the 
cardinal  points.  I  have  therefore,  on  this  ground,  presumed  to 
doubt  the  propriety  of  the  name  of  Bonin-sima  being  attached  to 
tbcse  islands. 

Were  the  situation  of  Bonin-sima  dependent  solely  ujion  the  ac- 
count furnished  by  Kajmpfer,  it  might  safely  be  identified  with  the 
group  of  Yslas  del  Arzo-bispo ;  but  the  recent  notice  of  that  isl- 
and by  the  Japanese  authors  is  so  very  explicit,  that  great  doubt 
upon  the  subject  is  thereby  created.  Kajmpfer's  account  stands 
thus ; — In  1675  a  Japanese  junk  was  driven  out  of  her  course  by 
strong  winds,  and  wrecked  upon  an  island  three  hundred  miles  to 
the  eastward  ofFatslssio.  The  island  abounded  in  an-ack-trees 
(areca?)  and  in  enormous  crabs  (turtle?),  which  wero  from  four  to 
six  feet  in  length  ;  and  was  named  Bunesima,  in  consequence  of  its 
being  uninhabited.  In  this  staten)ent  the  distance,  the  areca-trees, 
the  turtle,  and  the  island  being  unoccupied,  agree  very  well  with 
the  description  of  the  island  I  have  given  above  ?  and  it  is  curious 
that  Wittrein,  whom  we  found  upon  the  island,  declared  he  had 
seen  the  wreck  of  a  vessel  in  which  the  planks  w^ere  put  together  i» 
a  manner  similar  to  that  which  was  noticed  by  Lientenant  Wain- 
wright  in  the  junk  at  Loo  Choo. 

It  is  remarkable  that  this  group  should  have  escaped  the  observa- 
tion of  Gore,  Perouse,  Krusenstern,  and  several  others,  whose  ves- 
sels passed  to  the  northward  and  southward  of  its  position.  In  the 
journals  of  the  above-mentioned  navigate  ;  we  find  that  when  in  the 
vicinity  of  these  islands  they  were  visited  by  land  birds  ;  but  they 
never  saw  land,  the  three  small  islands  of  IjOS  Volcanos  ex- 
cepted, which  may  be  considered  the  lust  of  the  group.     The  con- 


"   V-j  -I  I .     .       J 


HVU<I"|I  I  "  I     !**»■ 


■^■jy- 


I;        >.! 


438 


VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


■CJ  i 


',;^.^" 


S4 


\^- 


^^J 


iyr'HP 


[•/unr. 


sequpiicc  of  their  having  thus  escaped  notice  was,  that  all  the  islands 
except  the  three  last-mentioned,  were  expunged  from   the  charts  • 
and  it  was  not  until  1823  that  they  re-appeared   on  Arrowsmith's 
rnap,  on  the  autho'-ity  of  M.  Abel  Remusat. 

Near  these  islands  we  found  strong  currents,  running  principally 
to  the  northward  ;  but  none  of  them  equalled  in  strength  that  vvhicii 
is  said  by  the  Japanese  to  exist  between  Bonin-Sima  and  Fatsissio 
which  indeed  was  so  ''apid  that  it  obtained  the  name  of  Kourosi-ea- 
wa,  or  Current  of  the  black  Gulf;*  nor  did  their  directions  accord 
as  the  kou -rosi-gawa  is  said  to  set  from  east  to  west.  At  partic- 
ular periods,  perhaps,  these  currents  may  be  greater  than  wo 
found  them,  and  may  also  run  to  the  westward,  but  they  are 
certainly  not  constant.  To  the  southward  of  Jesso,  Captain  Brougli- 
ton  experienced  a  set  in  the  opposite  direction — that  is,  from  west  to 
eusi,  and  so  did  Adiniraf  Krusenstern.  With  us,  as  has  been  men- 
tioned before,  the  set  was  te  the  northward. 

June  16th.  1  had  spent  as  much  time  in  low  latitudes,  fixing  the 
positions  of  all  these  islands,  as  was  consistent  with  my  orders,  and 
it  became  necessary  to  make  the  best  of  our  wj>y  to  the  northward ; 
which  we  did,  in  the  hope  of  being  more  successful  in  our  .arcli 
for  the  land  expedition  than  we  were  the  preceding  year.  At  first 
we  stood  well  to  the  eastward,  in  order  to  get  nearly  into  the  me- 
ridian of  Petrouaulski,  that  we  might  not  be  inconvenienced  by 
easterly  winds,  which  appear  to  be  prevalent  in  these  seas  in  the 
summer  time  ;  and  having  attained  our  object,  directed  the  cour&e 
for  that  port. 

Our  passage  between  corresponding  latitudes  was  very  similar  to 
that  of  the  preceding  year.  Between  the  parallels  of  30°  and 
35°  we  experluiiced  light  and  variable  winus,  and  39"  of  latitude 
took  a  souihoily  winJ,  wDich  continued  with  us  nearly  all  the  way. 
We  entered  the  region  of  fog  nearly  in  the  same  latitude  as  be- 
fore, and  did  not  lose  it  until  the  day  before  we  made  the  land, 
'.vhen,  at  before,  it  was  dispersed  by  strong  winds  off  the  coast. 
The  currents  were  similar  to  those  of  the  preceding  year ;  but 
when  near  the  Kurilo  Islands  we  were  impeded  oy  a  strong  south- 
erly current  from  the  Sea  of  Okotsk.  About  this  time  we  noticed 
so  material  a  change  in  the  colour  of  the  sea  that  we  were  induced 
to  try  for  soundings,  but  without  gaining  the  bottom.  Captain 
Clerke  off  the  same  place  observed  a  similar  change,  and  also 
tried  for  soi.  ndings  without  success.  It  is  probbble  that  the  outset 
from  the  Sea  of  Okotsk,  the  shores  of  which  are  flat  and  muddy, 
may  bring  down  a  quantity  of  that  substance,  and  occasion  the  al- 
teration. 

As  we  had  very  little  to  interest  us  in  thi?  passage,  beyond  that 


'  Dcsi  riptiou  d'un  Ciouppe  d  Ilea  pi.u  coiiiiu,  pn,r  M.  Rciiuisal. 


"^F^ 


[June, 

II  the  islands, 

the  charts  ; 

A.rrowsmith's 

ig  principally 
^th  that  which 
ind   Fatsissio; 
if  Kourosi-ga- 
RCtions  accord 
t.     At  partic- 
iter   than  wc 
but    they  are 
iptain  Brough- 
is,  from  west  to 
has  been  men- 

jdes,  fixing  the 
my  orders,  and 
the  northward ; 
il  in  our  .  area 
year.  At  first 
ly  into  the  me- 
onvenienced  by 
ese  seas  in  the 
pted  the  course 

very  similar  to 
els  of  30°  and 
39°  of  latitude 
irly  all  the  way. 
latitude  as  be- 
made  the  land, 
s  off  the  coast, 
ding  year;    but 
a  strong  south- 
time  we  noticed 
e  were  induced 
ttom.      Captain 
lange,  and  also 
that  the  outset 
at  and  muddy, 
loccasion  the  al- 

ige,  beyond  thai 
Rciniu&t. 


1827.] 


AND    BECKING  S    STRAIT. 


439 


which  always  attends  a  material  change  of  climate,  wc  watched 
the  birds  which  flew  around  us,  and  found  that  tlio  tropic  birds  de- 
serted us  in  35°  N.  The  brown  albatross  and  shearwaters  fell  oft" 
in  40°.  N.  In  41°  we  saw  the  wandering  albatross  and  black  di- 
vers ;  some  petrel  in  45° ;  puflins,  fulmar  petrels,  and  ganncts  in 
49°,  and  as  we  approached  Kamschntka,  lummes,  dovekics,  and 
small  tern.  About  the  latitude  of  42°  we  saw  many  whales,  but 
they  did  not  accompany  us  far.  We  observed  driftwood  occasion- 
ally, but  it  was  not  so  plentiful  as  in  the  preceding  year. 

On  the  2d  of  July  we  made  the  snowy  mountains  of  Kamschat- 
ka,  but  did  not  reach  the  Bay  of  Awatska  before  the  evening  of 
the  next  day,  when,  after  experiencing  the  diflicullies  which  al- 
most always  attend  the  entry  and  egress  of  the  port,  wc  came  to 
an  anchor  off  the  town  of  Petropaulski  nearly  in  the  same  situa- 
tion as  before. 

We  found  lying  in  t'>e  inner  harbour  the  Okotsk  Packet,  a  brig 
of  200  tons,  conunandod  by  a  Russian  sub-lieutenant,  on  Uie  point 
of  sailing  wiih  the  mail  for  St.  Petersburgh,  and  availed  ourselves 
of  the  favourable  opportunity  of  transmitting  despatches  and  pri- 
vate letters  by  her.  I  received  some  official  Ifetters  which  !iad  been 
too  late  foi  the  ship  the  preceding  year  ;  but  neither  in  them  nor 
in  the  Petersburgh  Gazette,  which  finds  its  way  occasionally  to 
Kamschalka,  was  there  intelligence  to  influence  our  proceedings, 
and  we  consequently  began  to  refit  the  ship  for  her  northern  cruize. 
While  this  duty  was  in  progress,  we  were  also  employed  sounding 
and  surveying  the  capacious  bay  and  the  harbours  of  Tareinski,  Ra- 
kovya,  and  PetrO|iauIski,  the  plans  of  those  places  which  had  been 
constructed  by  Captain  King  being  by  no  means  complete. 

Before  the  ship  was  at  an  anchor  we  received  from  the  governor, 
Captain  Stankitski,  a  very  acceptable  present  of  some  new  potatoes, 
fresh  butter,  curds,  and  spring  wate.  — a  mark  of  attention  and  po- 
liteness for  which  we  were  very  thankful.  On  landing  I  had  the 
pleasure  to  find  all  the  colony  in  good  health,  but  a  little  chagrined 
to  learn  the  ship  was  not  one  of  the  periodical  vessels  from  St.  Pe- 
tersburgh. As  these  vessels  bring  out  every  kind  of  supply  for  the 
inhabitants,  they  are  most  anxiously  looked  for ;  and  if  they  are  de- 
tained they  occasion  great  inconvenience. 

We  endeavoured  to  supply  some  of  the  deficiences  of  the  place 
by  presents  of  flour,  rice,  tea,  and  bottled  porter,  and  three  large 
turtle,  with  some  water-melons,  bjth  the  last-mentioned  were 
great  curiosities,  as  they  had  never  been  brought  to  the  place  before, 
or  indeed  seen  by  any  of  the  inhabitants,  except  those  in  the  gov- 
erment  service.  Much  curiosity  was  consequently  excited  when 
the  turtle  were  landed  ;  and  very  few  would  at  first  believe  such 
forhidding  animals  were  intended  to  be  eaten.     As  no  person  knew 


•s  * 


410 


VOYAGE  TO  TUE  PACIFIC 


[Juhj, 


* 


how  to  drf»««  them,  I  sent  my  cook  on  shore,  and  they  were  soon 
ron  verted  init.o  an  excellent  soup,  some  of  which  was  sent  round  to 
each  of  the  respectable  inhabitants  of  the  place  ;  but,  as  may  be  im- 
agiiied,  after  l«ving  brought  the  animals  so  far,  we  were  mortified 
at  hearing  se.v.'»»iJ  persons  derlare  their  preference  for  their  own 
dishes  made  >i'  »<»3Js'  flesli.  These  turtle  were  the  last  of  the  sup- 
ply we  bad  Uk4in  m  board  at  Port  Lloyd,  three  having  died  upon 
the  passage,  and  the  ship's  company  having  continued  to  consume 
two  everv  day,  which  on  an  "verage  was  about  five  pounds  a  man. 
This  last«  for  laWjut  three  weeks,  during  which  time  we  saved  half 
the  usual  alloWiWW'.e  of  jrovisions. 

The  season  at  ^'rtro|>*rjlski  was  more  backward  than  the  preced- 
ing year  and  thouj^ii  it  v«as  the  beginning  of  July,  the  snow  lay 
<ir?ep  upon  some  parts  of  ti*e  sltore,  and  the  inhabitants  were  glad 
M-  keep  on  their  fur  dresses. 

The  little  town,  which  has  ^j»w repeatedly  described  since  King's 
vi^  has  been  removed  from  ifii<?  spit  of  land  which  forms  the  har- 
bour to  a  vallev'  at  the  back  of  if ,  where  there  are  several  rows  of 
substantial  log-lious«»^,  comli.n'tahly  fitted  up  inside,  and  warmed 
with  large  ovens  in  the  centre,  furnislt^'d  with  pipes  for  the  convey- 
ance of  hot  air.  Glass  for  windows  has  partly  superseded  the  lami- 
naj  of  talc,  before  used  for  that  purpose.  Neat  wooden  bridges  have 
been  thrown  over  the  ravines  which  intersect  the  town,  and  a  new 
church  has  been  built.  A  guard-house  and  sevef-al  field-pieces  com- 
mand the  landing  ;  and  a  little  to  the  northwo' <!  there  are  magazines 
for  powder  and  stores.  Among  other  buildin'i-  .he  town  thereis 
a  hospital  and  a  school.  The  yourts  and  balagans  of  which  Cap- 
tain King  speaks  are  now  only  used  as  store-houses  for  fish. 

The  greater  part  of  the  houses  are  furnished  with  gardens;  Init, 
being  badly  attended  to,  they  produce  very  little.  That  attaclit  d 
to  the  government-house  was  in  better  order,  and  was  planted  with 
iieas,  beans,  cabbages,  lettuces,  potatoes,  radishes,  cucumbers,  and 
a  (ew  currant-trees  which  were  blighted  ;  barley  and  a  small  qunii- 
tity  of  wheat  were  also  growing  in  its  vicinity.  Some  new  houses 
were  erecting  in  the  town  in  expectation  of  the  arrival  of  some  ex- 
iles from  St.  Petersburgh,  as  it  was  imderstood  that  several  jiorsons 
concerned  in  the  conspiracy  against  the  emperor  were  to  be  banish- 
ed to  this  place.  The  town,  upon  the  whole,  was  much  ncaicr 
than  I  expected  to  find  it ;  and  I  by  no  moans  agree  with  C'a|)taiii 
Cochrane,  that  it  is  a  contemptable  place,  and  a  picture  of  rnisen 
and  wretchedness.  Considering  the  number  of  years  it  has  been 
colonized,  and  that  it  is  part  of  the  Russian  Empire,  it  ought  cer- 
tainly to  have  become  of  much  more  importance  ;  but  it  docs  not 
differ  so  materially  from  the  .accounts  of  it  that  have  been  pid)li<h- 
ed,  as  to  create  disappoinunent  on  visiting  the  place,  and  itappcar- 


h: 


1827.] 


AND  BEERING  S  STRATT. 


441 


ed  to  me  that  nothing  is  promised  in  tliose  accounts  which  the  place 
itself  does  not  aftbrd. 

It  was  witii  much  pleasure  we  noticed  in  the  governor's  garden  the 
monument  of  our  departed,  countryman  Captain  Gierke,  which  for 
better  preservation  had  been  i  amoved  from  its  former  position  by  the 
late  governor.  It  was  on  one  side  of  a  broad  gravel  walk,  at  the 
end  of  an  avenue  of  trees.  On  the  other  side  of  the  walk,  there  was 
a  monument  to  the  memory  of  the  celebrated  Beering.  The  former 
it  may  be  recollected,  was  erected  by  the  officers  of  Captain  Krusen- 
stcrn's  ship;  and  the  latter  had  been  purposely  sent  from  St.  Peters- 
burg. This  mark  of  respect  from  the  Russians  toward  our  departed 
countryman  calls  forth  our  warmest  gratitude,  and  must  strengthen 
the  good  understanding  which  exists  and  is  daily  increasing  between 
the  officers  of  their  service  and  our  own  The  monument  will  ever 
be  regarded  as  one  of  the  greatest  interest,  as  it  marks  the  places  of 
interment  of  the  companions  of  the  celebrated  Cook  and  Beering, 
and  records  the  generosity  of  the  much-lamented  Perouse,  who 
placed  a  copper  plate  over  the  grave  of  our  departed  country- 
man Captain  Clerke;  and  of  the  celebrated  Admiral  Krusenstern, 
who  erected  the  monument,  and  affixed  a  tablet  upon  it  to  the 
memory  of  the  Abbe  de  la  Croyere.  Such  eminent  names,  thus 
combined,  create  a  regret  that  the  materials  on  which  they  are  en- 
graved are  not  as  imperishable  as  the  memory  of  the  men  themselves. 

Since  Admiral  Kmsenstern  visited  Kamschatka,  several  altera- 
tions have  been  made,  probably  in  consequence  of  the  suggestions 
in  his  publication.  The  seat  of  government  is  now  fixed  at  Petro- 
paulski,  the  town  is  considerably  improved,  and  the  inhabitants  are 
better  supplied  than  formerly.  Still  much  remains  to  be  accom- 
plished before  Petropaulski  can  be  of  consequence  in  any  way, 
except  in  affording  an  excellent  asylum  for  vessels.  In  this  respect 
it  is  almost  unequalled,  being  very  secure,  and  admirably  adapted  to 
the  purpose  of  any  vessel  requiring  repair  ;  but  for  this  she  will  have 
to  depend  entirely  upon  her  own  resources,  as  their  is  nothing  to 
be  had  in  the  country  but  fish,  wood,  water,  and  fresli  beef. 

The  population  of  the  town  at  the  beginning  of  the  winter  of 
18'26  was  not  more  than  three  hundred  and  eighty-five  persons, 
exclusive  of  the  government  establishment  ;  the  occupation  of  the 
people  consists  principally  in  curing  fish  and  providing  for  a  long 
winter,  during  which,  with  the  exception  of  those  persons  who  go 
into  the  interior  for  furs,  there  is  very  little  to  occupy  the  inhabitants. 

Tliere  are  no  manufactures  in  the  country,  nor  any  eslablishments 
which  require  notice.  Tiie  inhabitants  have  an  idea  that  the  climate 
is  to  cold  to  produce  crops  of  wheat  and  other  grain,  and  neglect 
almost  entirely  the  cultivation  of  the  soil.  The  consequence  of  this 
is,  tliat  they  occasionally  suffer  very  much  from  scurvy,  and  are 
56 


t;i 


,  j.a 


44-2 


VOYAGE  TO  THE  PACJPIC 


[July, 

dependent  upon  the  supplies  which  arc  sent  from  St.  Petorsburgli 
every  second  year  for  all  their  farinaceoiis  food;  and  if  these  vessels 
are  lost  the  greatest  distress  ensues.  Many  attempts  have  been  made 
to  persuade  them  to  attend  to  agriculture  ;  rewards  have  been  oftered 
by  the  government  for  the  finest  productions  ;  and  seeds  are  distrib- 
uted to  the  people  every  spring.  In  the  autumn  there  is  a  fair  at 
which  those  persons  who  have  received  seeds  are  required  to  attend, 
and  to  bring  with  them  specimens  of  the  fruit  of  their  labour.  The 
persons  who  are  most  deserving  then  receive  rewards,  and  the  day 
finishes  with  a  feast  and  a  dance.  In  spite  of  these  encouragements, 
the  gardens  are  very  little  attended  to.  Hay,  though  it  is  got  in  at 
the  proper  seu<'on,  is  in  such  inadequate  proportion  to  the  wants 
of  the  cattle,  that  v.sre  it  not  for  wild  garlic  they  would  famish  before 
the  spring  vegetation  commences.  The  flavour  that  is  communi- 
cated to  the  milk  and  butler  by  the  use  of  this  herbage,  appears  to 
be  so  familiar  to  the  inhabitants  that  they  find  nothing  unpleasant 
in  it ;  but  it  is  very  much  the  reverse  with  strangers.  Every  fam- 
ily has  one  or  two  cows,  of  which  great  care  is  taken  during  the 
winter,  and,  strictly  speaking,  some  of  the  inhabitants  live  under 
the  same  roof  with  their  animals,  with  no  other  partition  than  a 
screen  of  single  boards.  There  are  very  few  oxen  in  the  town, 
and  when  required  they  are  driven  from  Bolcheresk,  about  ninety 
miles  off,  where  pasturage  is  more  abundant.  Beef  is  consequently 
a  luxury  seldom  enjoyed  ;  and  sheep  and  goats  cannot  exist  in  the 
country,  in  consequence  of  the  savage  nature  of  the  dogs,  which 
are  very  large,  and  occasionally  break  away  from  their  fastenings : 
fish  therefore  constitutes  the  principle  food  of  the  inhab.tants. 

Necessarily  frugal,  and  blessed  with  a  salubrious  climate,  the 
residents  in  general  enjoy  good  health,  and  appear  to  lead  a  con- 
tented life.  They  are  extremely  fond  of  the  amusement  of  danc- 
ing, and  frequently  meet  for  this  purpose.  There  are  several  mu- 
sicians, and  musical  instruments  are  manufactured  by  an  ingenious 
exile.  As  spirituous  liquors  of  any  kind  in  the  country  are  scarce, 
these  meetings  are  not  attended  with  any  inebriety,  and  serve  only 
to  pass  away  the  dull  hours  of  a  long  winter's  evening.  The  on)y 
refreshment  we  saw  produced  at  them  consisted  of  whortle  und 
cran-berries  ;  these  wore  piled  up  in  two  or  three  plates  with  a  des- 
sert-spoon to  each,  and  passed  round  the  company,  ahnost  every 
body  using  the  same  s|)oon.  Society  is  necessarily  very  mixed,  or 
there  could  be  none  in  so  small  a  popul»»ion,  and  when  strangers 
are  not  present  it  is  not  unusual  to  sec  exiles  at  the  governor's 
parties. 

In  the  winter  sledging  is  a  favourite  occupation.  The  dogs  are 
here  very  large  and  swifi,  and  are  so  much  esteemed  that  they  are 
carried  to  Okotsk  for  sale.      For  a  description  of  this  amusement. 


1827.J 


AND    BEERING's    strait. 


443 


It  IS  communi- 


and  other  recreations  of  the  Kanischatdales,  1  must  refer  the  read- 
er to  Cook's  Voyage,  to  Captain  Cochrane's  Pedestrian  Journey, 
and  to  the  entertaining  Travels  of  Mr.  Dobell,  who  quitted  Kam- 
schatka  a  short  time  before  \vc  arrived. 

At  present  the  only  trade  carried  on  at  Pctropaulski  is  in  furs, 
which  are  exchanged  for  goods  brought  annually  from  Okotsk. 
Every  thing  is  excessively  dear,  even  the  necessary  article  salt  is 
in  great  demand,  and  produces  a  very  high  price. 

The  Bay  of  Awatska  and  the  harbours  which  open  into  it  leave 
nothing  to  be  desired  in  the  way  of  a  port.      Awatska  has  many 
square  miles  of  ground  which  may  be  appropriated  to  secure  anchor- 
age, and  Tareinski  is  the  beau  ideal  of  a  harbour.     PetropRulski, 
though  small,  has  a  sufficient  depth  of  water  for  a  first-rate  in  every 
part  of  it.     The  ground  is  good,  and  the  smoothness  of  the  water  is 
never   affected  by   any    weather  upon  the  coast.     As  Awatsku  is 
nearly  surrounded  by  high  land,  gusts  of  wind  are  of  frequent  oc- 
currence,  prrticularly  opposite  llakovya  harbour  :  on  this  account 
it  is  advisable  to  moor  or  ride  with  a  long  scope  of  cable.     The  en- 
trance to  the  port  is  narrow  and  about  four  miles  in  length,  and  as 
tlie  wind  almost,   always  blows  up  or  down  the  channel,  ships  fre- 
quently have  to  beat  in  and  out,  and  experience  great  difficulty  in 
so  doing,  from  the  confined  space  to  which  they  arc  limited,  and 
the  eddy   currents,  which  in  the  spring-time  in  particular  must  be 
carefully  guarded  against.     There  are  but  two  shoals  in  the  harbour 
which  it  is  necessary  to  notice  ;  one  off  Rakovya,  upon  which  there 
is  a  buoy  ;  and  the  other  off  the  signal  station  on  the  west  side  of 
the  entrance  of  Awatska  Bay. 

Much  has  been  said  of  the  neglected  condition  of  the  settlement, 
and  volumes  have  been  written  on  the  government,  inhabitafils, 
productions,  and  on  the  actual  and  prospective  state  of  the  country  ;* 
still  there  have  been  no  exertions  on  tlic  part  of  the  government 
materially  to  improve  or  provide  for  either  one  or  the  other.  Its 
neglected  state  is  probably  of  very  little  consequence  at  present ; 
but  should  the  INorih  Pacific  ever  be  the  scene  of  active  naval  ope- 
rations, Pctropaulski  must  doubtless  become  of  iuunensc  importance. 
At  present  it  may  tie  said  to  be  unfortified,  but  a  very  few  guns  ju- 
diciously placed  VFould  effectually  protect  the  entrance. 

On  the  18th  of  July,  having  completed  the  survey  of  the  bay  of 
.\\vatska  and  its  harbours,  we  took  our  leave  of  the  hos])itable 
inhabitants,  and  weighed  anchor  ;  but,  as  on  the  former  occasion, 
we  wore  obliged  to  make  several  unsuccessful  attempts  to  get  out, 
and  did  not  accomplish  our  object  until  the   20lli,  when  we  sliaped 


m 


i 


4      < 


♦Cook's  Third   Voyage,  vol.  iii.  PeroiiH«;'a   Voynpr  ;  Kniflenstcrd'a   KntbAwy  to 
Japan;  Laiig8dorfl"'3Tiavel8  ;  Cothiaue's  Journey  ;  Dobell's  Travels,  &l-. 


p^puu>iliii 


444  VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC  [-4w^. 

our  course  towards  Chepoonski  Noss.  A  long  swell  rolled  in  upon 
the  sliore  as  we  crossed  this  spacious  bay,  in  the  depth  of  which 
the  port  of  Awatska  is  situated,  and  convinced  us  of  tlie  difficulty 
that  would  be  experienced  in  getting  clear  of  the  land  with  a  strong 
wind  upon  the  coast,  and  of  the  danger  a  ship  would  incur  were 
she,  in  addition  to  this,  to  be  caught  in  a  fog,  which  would  prevent 
her  finding  the  port.  Our  winds  were  light  from  seaward,  and  we 
made  slow  progress,  striking  soundings  occasionally  from  sixty  to 
seventy  fathoms,  until  the  following  morning,  when  we  took  our 
departure  from  the  Noss,  and  entered  a  thick  fog,  which  en'  "loped 
us  until  we  made  Beering's  Island  on  the  22d ;  when  it  cleared 
away  for  the  moment,  we  distinguished  Seal  Rock.  We  had  no 
observation  at  noon,  but  by  comparing  the  reckoning  with  the  ob- 
servations of  the  preceding  and  following  days,  it  gave  the  position 
of  the  island  the  same  as  before. 

We  quitted  the  island  witii  the  prospect  of  a  quick  passage  to 
the  Straits  ;  aiid,  attended  by  a  thick  fog,  advanced  to  the  north- 
ward until  the  26th,  at  which  time  contrary  winds  brought  us  in 
with  the  Asiatic  coast  in  the  parallel  of  61"  58'  N.  When  we 
were  within  a  few  leagues  of  the  coast  the  fog  cleared  away,  as  it 
generally  does  near  the  land,  and  discovered  to  us  a  hilly  country, 
and  a  coast  apparently  broken  into  deep  bays  and  inlets;  but,  as 
we  did  not  approach  very  closely,  these  might  have  been  only 
valleys.  In  this  parallel  the  nearest  point  of  land  bearing  N.  74" 
W.  true,  thirteen  miles,  the  depth  of  water  was  26  fathoms  ;  and  it 
increased  gradually  as  we  receded  from  the  coast.  The  bottom 
near  the  shore  was  a  coarse  gravel,  which,  as  that  in  the  offing  is 
mud  or  sand,  is  a  useful  distinctive  feature.  With  a  northerly  wind 
and  a  thick  fog  we  stood  towards  St.  Lawrence  Island,  and  on  tlie 
ist  August  were  apprised  of  our  apjyoach  to  it,  by  the  soundings 
changing  from  mud  to  sand,  and  several  visits  from  the  little  cres- 
ted auks,  which  are  peculiar  to  this  island.  We  made  the  land  about 
the  same  place  we  had  done  the  preceding  year,  stood  along  it  to  the 
northward,  and  passed  its  N.  W.  extreme,  at  two  miles  and  a  half 
distance,  in  15  fathoms  water,  over  a  bottom  of  stones  and  shells, 
which  soon  changed  again  to  sand  and  mud.  About  midnight  the 
temperature  of  water  fell  to  31",  and  soon  after  that  of  the  air  was 
reduced  from  42°  to  34.  The  wind  shifted  to  north-west,  and  cleared 
away  the  fog.  On  ihe  after-noon  of  the  2d  we  passed  King's  Island 
and  the  wind  continuing  to  the  northward,  anchored  off  Point  l{od- 
ney,  for  the  purpose  of  hoisting  out  the  barge.  We  came  to  anchor 
in  seven  fathoms,  three  miles  from  the  land,  King's  Island  bearing 
N.    70°  29'  W.  true,  and  Sledge  island  S.  65"  E.  true. 

Point  Rodney  is  low,  and  the  water  being  shallow,  it  is  difficult 
to  land.     From    the    beach  to  the  foot  of  the  moimtains  there  is  a 


■w 


[Aug. 

rolled  in  upon 
epth  of  which 

the  difficuhy 

with  a  strong 
lid  incur  were 
would  prevent 
ivvard,  and  we 
from  sixty  to 

we  took  our 

lich  en'  I -loped 

■hen  it  cleared 

We  had  no 

with  the  ob- 
ve  the  position 

Ick  passage  to 
[  to  the  nortli- 
brought  us  in 
v.      When  we 
red  away,  as  it 
a  hilly  country, 
inlets ;  but,  as 
lave  been  only 
bearing  N.  74^ 
fathoms  ;  and  it 
The  bottom 
in  the  offing  is 
northerly  wind 
and,  and  on  the 
]y  the  soundings 
1)  the  little  cres- 
e  the  land  about 
|d  along  it  to  the 
jiiles  and  a  half 
[ones  and  shells, 
lut  midnight  tlie 
.t  of  the  air  was 
est,  and  cieareci 
d  King's  Island 
ofF  Point  Rod- 
came  to  anchor 
Island  bearing 
true. 

Uv,  it  is  diflicull 
[itains  there  is  a 


1827.] 


AND    BEEKING  S    STRAIT. 


445 


plain  about  two  miles  wide,  covered  with  lichens  and  grass,  upon 
which  several  herds  of  reindeer  were  feeding  ;  but  the  communi- 
cation is  in  places  interrupted  by  narrow  lakes,  which  extend  sev- 
eral miles  along  the  coast.  Upon  the  beach  there  was  a  greater 
abundance  of  drift  wood  than  we  had  noticed  on  any  other  part  of 
the  coast ;  some  of  it  was  perforated  by  the  terredo,  and  was  cov- 
ered with  small  barnacles ;  but  there  were  several  trunks  which  ap- 
peared to  have  been  recently  torn  up  by  the  roots.  Near  the  spot 
where  we  landed  were  several  yourts,  and  a  number  of  posts  driv- 
en into  the  ground,  and  in  the  lake  we  found  several  artificial  ducks 
which  had  been  left  as  decoys :  but  we  caw  no  natives.  About 
two  miles  irom  the  coast  the  country  becones  mountainous,  and  far 
inland  rises  to  peaked  hills  of  great  height,  covered  with  perennial 
snow. 

It  was  calm  throughout  the  greater  part  of  the  day,  with  very  fine 
weather.  The  temperature,  which  increased  gradually  as  we  left 
the  snowy  coast  of  Asia,  at  noon  reached  to  55",  which  was  twenty 
one  degrees  higher  than  it  had  been  on  the  opposite  shore  :  and  the 
mean  for  the  last  twenty-four  hours  was  seven  degrees  higher  than 
that  of  the  preceding  day.  Part  of  this  difference  was  evidently 
owing  to  the  cessatitii  of  the  northerly  wind  and  our  proximity  to 
the  land  ;  but  part  must  also  have  been  occasioned  by  one  coast  be- 
ing naturally  colder  than  the  other. 

During  the  time  we  were  at  anchor  there  was  a  regular  ebb  and 
flow  of  the  tide  :  and  there  appeared  by  the  shore  to  be  about  three 
or  four  feet  rise  of  water.  The  flood  came  from  the  S.  E,,  and 
ran  with  greater  strength  than  the  ebb,  which  showed  there  was  a 
current  setting  towards  Beering's  Strait.  Captain  Cook  noticed  the 
same  circumstance  off  this  part  of  the  coast. 

The  equipment  of  our  little  tender  was  always  a  subject  of  inter- 
est, and  preparations  for  hoisting  her  out  seemed  to  give  the  great- 
est pleasure  to  all  on  board.  She  was  again  placed  under  the  com- 
mand of  Mr.  Elson,  who  received  orders  to  examine  the  coast  nar- 
rowly between  our  station  and  Kotzebue  Sound,  and  to  search  for 
an  opening  to  the  eastward  of  Cape  Prince  of  Wales,  of  which  the 
Esquimaux  had  apprised  us  the  preceding  year  by  their  chart  upon 
the  sand.  Mr.  Elson  was  ordered  to  look  into  Schismareff  Inlet, 
and  afterwards  to  meet  the  ship  at  Chamisso  Island.  This  little  ex- 
cursion was  nearly  being  frustrated  by  an  accident.  In  hoisting  out 
tlie  boat  the  boit  in  the  keel  gave  way,  in  consequence  of  the  coj)per 
having  corroded  the  iron  oi  the  clench  ;  a  circumstance  which  should 
je  guarded  against  in  coppered  boats.  Fortunately  she  was  not 
far  off  the  deck,  or  the  accident  might  have  been  of  a  very  serious 
natmo,  as  her  weight  was  as  much  as  our  yards  would  bear  when 
shored  up. 


*    ] 

I 


I- 


% 


'U 


h 


I 


li) 


ll 


?^ 


'^nm^n^rwrnm 


446 


VOYAGE    TO    TUB    PACIFIC 


I 

m 


[Aug. 

As  soon  as  she  was  equipped,  Mr.  Elson  proceeded  in  shore  • 
and  a  breeze  springing  up  shortly  afterwards,  the  ship  weighed,  and 
entered  the  channel  between  King's  Island  and  the  main.  The 
depth  of  water  from  the  anchorage  off  Point  Rodney  decreased 
gradually  as  she  proceeded,  until  nearly  mid-channel,  when  the 
soundings  became  very  irregular ;  the  alternate  casts  occasionally 
varying  from  nine  to  six  fathoms,  and  vice  versa.  As  it  was  blow- 
ing fresh  at  the  time,  the  sudden  change  of  soundings  occasioned 
overfalls ;  and,  the  channel  having  been  very  indifferently  explored, 
it  was  unpleasant  sailing.  But,  although  I  do  not  think  there  is  any 
danger,  it  would  still  be  advisable  in  passing  through  the  channel, 
which  is  full  of  ridges,  to  pay  strict  attention  to  the  lead,  particular- 
ly as  when  Captain  Cook  passed  over  the  same  ground,  there  was, 
according  to  his  chart,  nothing  less  than  twelve  fathoms.  The  wind 
increasing,  and  a  thick  fog  approaching,  the  course  was  continued 
with  some  anxiety  ;  but  finding  the  same  irregularity  in  the  sound- 
ings, I  hauled  out  due  west  to  the  northward  of  King's  Island,  which 
speedily  brought  us  into 'twenty-eight  fathoms,  and  showed  that 
there  was  a  bank,  tolerably  steep  at  its  edge,  extending  from  King's 
Island  to  the  main.  We  now  resumed  our  course  for  the  strait ; 
but  the  fog  being  very  thick  we  had  some  difficulty  in  finding  the 
passage,  and  were  obliged  to  haul  off  twice  before  we  succeeded  in 
passing  it.  In  doing  this  we  crossed  a  narrow  channel,  with  thirty 
seven  fathoms  water,  which  is  deeper  soundings  than  have  been 
hitherto  found  within  a  great  many  miles  of  the  strait.  As  the 
depth  on  each  side  of  the  channel  is  twenty-four  fathoms,  it  may 
serve  as  a  guide  in  future  to  vessels  circumstanced  as  we  were  at  the 
mouth  of  thn  strait  in  a  thick  fog.  A  little  before  noon  we  discerned 
the  Fairway  Rock,  and  passed  the  straits  in  confidence  before  a 
fresh  gale  of  wind,  which  had  just  increased  so  much  as  to  render 
our  situation  very  unpleasant. 

On  the  morning  of  the  5th  we  passed  Cape  Espenburg,  and  in 
the  evening  came  to  anchor  ofTChamisso  Island,  nearly  in  the  same 
situation  we  had  occupied  so  long  the  precet'ing  year.  On  revisit- 
ing this  island,  curiosity  and  interest  in  the  fate  of  our  countrymen, 
of  whom  we  were  in  search,  were  our  predominant  feelings  ;  and  a 
boat  was  immediately  sent  to  ascertain  whether  they  had  been  at 
the  island.  On  her  return  we  learned  that  no  new  marks  had  been 
discerned  upon  the  rocks  ;  no  staff  was  erected,  as  had  been  agreed 
upon  in  the  event  of  their  arrival ;  and  the  billet  of  wood  contain- 
ing despatches  was  lying  unopened  upon  the  same  stone  on  which 
it  had  been  placed  the  proceeding  year ;  either  of  which  facts  was  a 
conclusive  answer  to  our  inquiry. 

By  some  chips  of  wood  which  had  been  recently  cut,  it  appeared 
that  the  Esquimaux  had  not  long  quitted  the  island ;  and  on  exani- 


^ 


[Aug. 

ed  in  shore  ; 

weighed,  and 

main.    The 

ey  decreased 

il,  when  ihe 
occasionally 
it  was  blow- 

rs  occasioned 

[itly  explored, 

ik  there  is  any 
the  channel, 

ad,  particular- 

nd,  there  was, 

IS.     The  wind 

was  continued 
ill  the  sound- 

3  Island,  which 

i  showed  that 

ng  from  King's 

B  for  the  strait ; 
in  finding  the 

e  succeeded  in 

nel,  with  thirty 

than  have  been 

Istrait.     As  the 

fathonjs,  it  may 

we  were  at  the 

on  we  discerned 

ilence  before  a 

as  to  render 

enburg,  and  in 
irly  in  the  same 
ir.     On  revisit- 
3ur  countrymen, 
feelings  ;  and  a  | 
y  had  been  at 
marks  had  been 
lad  been  agreed 
wood  contain- 
itone  on  which 
■hichfactswasa 

|cut,  it  appeared 
and  on  exam- 


1827.] 


AND    BEF.RINn  S  STRAIT. 


447 


ining  the  grave  of  our  unfortunate  shipmate  we  found  it  had  been 
disturbed  by  the  natives,  who,  disappointed  in  their  search,  had  again 
filled  in  the  earth.  It  would  be  unfair  to  impute  to  these  people 
any  malicious  intentions  from  this  circumstance,  as  they  must  have 
had  every  reason  to  suppose,  from  their  custom  of  concealing  pro- 
visions underground,  and  from  having  found  a  cask  of  our  flour  bur- 
ied the  preceding  year,  that  they  would  find  a  similar  treasure,  espe- 
cially as  they  do  not  inter  their  dead.  The  cask  of  flour  and  the 
box  of  beads,  which  had  been  deposited  in  the  sand,  had  been  un- 
molested ;  but  a  copper  coin  which  we  nailed  upon  a  post  on  the 
summit  of  the  island  was  taken  away. 

The  swarms  of  mosquitos  that  infested  the  shore  at  this  time 
greatly  lessened  our  desire  to  land.  However,  some  of  our  sports- 
men traversed  the  island,  and  succeeded  in  killing  a  white  hare, 
weighing  nearly  twelve  pounds,  and  a  few  ptarmigan  ;  the  hare  was 
getting  its  summer  coat,  and  the  young  birds  were  strong  upon  the 
wing. 

For  several  days  after  our  arrival  the  weather  was  very  thick, 
with  rain  and  squalls  from  the  south-west,  which  occasioned  some 
anxiety  for  the  barge  ;  but  on  the  11th  she  joined  us,  and  I  learned 
from  Mr.  Elson  that  he  had  succeeded  in  finding  the  inlet,  and  that  as 
far  as  he  could  judge,  the  weather  being  very  foggy  and  boisterous, 
it  was  a  spacious  and  excellent  port.  He  was  visited  by  several  of 
the  natives  while  there,  one  of  whom  drew  him  a  chart,  whicli  cor- 
responded with  that  constructed  upon  the  sand  in  Kotzebue  Sound 
the  preceding  year.  On  his  putting  to  sea  from  the  inlet,  the  w<;ath- 
er  continued  very  thick,  so  much  so  that  he  passed  through  Beer- 
ing's  Strait  without  seeing  land  ;  and  was  unable  to  explore  Scis- 
mareff  Inlet. 

The  discovery  of  a  port  so  near  to  Beering's  Strait,  and  one  ir,^ 
which  it  was  probable  the  ship  might  remain  after  circumstances 
should  oblige  her  to  quit  Kotzebue  Sound,  was  of  great  importance  ; 
and  I  determined  to  take  an  early  opportunity  of  examining  it, 
should  the  situation  of  the  ice  to  the  northward  afford  no  prospect 
of  our  preceding  further  than  we  had  done  the  preceding  year. 
In  order  that  Captain  Franklin's  party  might  not  be  inconveni  need 
by  such  an  arrangement,  the  barge  was  fitted,  and  placed  under  the 
command  of  Lieutenar*  Belcher,  who  was  ordered  to  proceed  along 
the  coast  as  in  the  preceding  year,  and  to  use  his  best  endeavours  to 
communicate  with  the  party  under  Captain  Franklin's  command, 
by  penetrating  to  the  eastward  as  far  as  he  could  go  with  safety  to 
the  boat ;  but  he  was  on  no  account  to  risk  being  beset  in  the  ice  ; 
and  in  the  event  of  separation  from  the  ship,  he  was  not  to  protract 
bis  absence  from  Kotzebue  Sound  beyond  the  1st  of  September. 


11 


) 


hi 


*. 


¥ 


i 


t 


K 


,tM.^ 


448 


\'OYAfJE    TO  THE    PACIFIC 


[Aug. 


He  was  also  to  examine  the  shoals  ofF  Icy  Cape  and  Cape  Krusen- 
steni,  and  to  explore  the  bay  to  the  nortliward  .f  Point  Hope. 

Having  made  these  arrangements,  we  endeavoured  to  put  to  sea 
but  calms  and  fogs  detained  us  at  Chamisso  until  the  14th,  and  it 
was  the  16th  before  we  reached  the  entrance  of  the  sound.  The 
barge,  however,  got  out,  and  the  weather  afterwards  being  very 
foggy ,  we  did  not  rejoin  for  some  time.  Before  we  left  the  island 
we  were  visited  by  several  natives  whom  we  remembered  to  iiave 
seen  the  preceding  year.  They  brought  some  skins  for  sale,  as 
usual,  but  did  not  find  so  ready  a  market  for  them  as  on  the  former 
occasion,  in  consequence  of  the  greater  part  of  the  furs  which  had 
been  purchased  by  the  seamen  at  that  time,  having  rotted  and  be- 
come ofTunsive  on  their  return  to  warm  latitudes.  Our  visitors  were 
as  before,  dirty,  noisy,  and  impudent.  One  of  them,  finding  he  was 
not  permitted  to  carry  off  some  deep-sea  leads  that  were  lyins; 
about,  scraped  off  the  greasy  arming  and  devoured  it:  another,  after 
bargaining  some  skins  for  the  armourer's  anvil,  unconcernedly  seiz- 
ed it  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  it  away  ;  but  much  to  his  surprise, 
and  to  the  great  J!vp;sion  of  the  sailors  who  had  played  him  ilie 
trick,  he  found  its  weight  much  too  great  for  him,  and  after  a  good 
laugh  received  back  his  goods.  A  third  amused  the  young  gentle- 
men very  much  by  his  humourous  behaviour.  He  was  a  shrewd, 
observing,  merry  fellow.  For  some  time  he  stood  eyeing  the  ofR- 
cers  walking  the  deck,  and  at  length  appearod  determined  to  turn 
them  into  ridicule  :  seizing  therefore  a  young  midshipman  by  the 
hand,  he  strutted  with  him  up  and  down  the  deck  in  a  most  ludi- 
crous manner,  to  the  great  entertainment  of  all  present.  Tliey 
quit  us  late  at  night,  but  reticwed  their  visit  at  three  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  that  they  would  have  an  opportunity  of  appropriating  to 
themselves  some  of  the  moveable  articles  upon  deck.  There  was 
otherwise  no  reason  for  returning  so  soon ;  and  from  what  we  after- 
wards saw  of  these  people,  there  is  evt.y  reason  to  believe  that  was 
their  real  motive. 

Off  the  entrance  of  Kotzebue  Sound  we  were  met  by  a  westerly 
wind,  which  prevented  our  making  much  progress ;  but  on  the 
18th  the  breeze  veered  to  the  south-westward,  with  a  thick  fog, 
and  as  I  had  not  seen  any  thing  of  the  barge,  I  steered  to  the  north- 
ward to  ascertain  the  position  of  the  ice.  At  noon  Cape  Thomson 
was  seen  N.  46"  E.  (true)  three  leagues  distant,  but  was  immediate- 
ly obscured  again  by  fog.  At  midnight  the  temperature  of  both 
air  and  sea  fell  from  43"  to  39",  and  rose  again  soon  afterwards  to 
44"  occasioned  probably  by  some  patches  of  ice  ;  but  the  weather 
was  so  thick  that  we  could  see  only  a  very  short  distance  around  us. 
We  continued  to  stand  to  the  north-west,  with  very  thick  and  rainy 
weather,  until  half  past  one  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  when  I  hauled 


1827.] 


AND    BtUlllNd'li    STRAI'I^ 


44^ 


jt  Hope, 
to  put  to  sea, 
e  14th,  and  it 
sound.     Tlie 
:ds  being  very 
left  the  island 
ibered  to  liave 
ins  for  sale,  as 
on  the  former 
furs  which  liad 
rotted  and  he- 
ir visitors  were 
finding  he  was 
;hat  were  lyins; 
;  another,  after 
ncernedly  seiz- 
to  his  surprise, 
played  him  the 
md  after  a  good 
e  young  gentle- 
e  was  a  shrewd, 
eyeing  the  offi- 
termined  to  turn 
Ishipman  by  the 

in  a  most  Uidi- 
present.     They 

e  in  the  tnorn- 

appropriating  to 
Ick.     There  was 

[1  what  we  after- 
Ibelieve  that  was 


to  the  wind,  in  conseqiiencio  of  the  temperature  of  the  water  liaving 
cooled  down  to  -35°,  and  the  weather  being  still  very  thick.  Ill 
half  an  hour  afterwards  we  heard  the  ice  to  leeward,  and  had  but 
just  room  to  get  about  to  clear  a  small  berg  at  its  edge.  Our  lati- 
tude at  this  time  was  70"  01'  N.>  and  loiigitudo  1C8°  50'  W.  ot 
about  160  n)iles  to  the  westward  of  Icy  Cape.  The  soundings  in 
the  last  tweive  hours  had  been  very  variable,  increasing  at  one  time 
to  thirty  fathoms,  then  shoaling  to  twenty-four  and  deepeiiiilg  again 
to  thirty-two  fathoms,  muddy  bottom,  an  hour  after  this  we  shoaled 
to  twenty-one  fathoms,  stones,  and  at  the  edge  of  the  ice  to  nine- 
teen fathoms,  stones.  The  body  of  ice  lying  to  the  northward 
prevented  our  pursuing  this  shallow  water;  to  ascertain  whether  it 
decreased  so  as  to  become  dangerous  to  navigation. 

Shortly  after  we  tacked,  the  wind  fell  very  light,  and  changed  to 
west.  We  could  hear  ,he  ice  plainly ;  but  the  fog  was  so  thick  that 
we  could  not  see  thirty  yards  distance  ;  and,  as  we  appeared  to  be 
in  a  bay,  to  avoid  being  beset,  we  stood  out  by  the  way  which  we 
had  entered.  At  nine  o'clock  the  fog  bleared  off,  arid  we  returned 
toward  the  ice.  At  midnight,  bding  close  to  its  edge,  we  found  it 
in  a  compact  body,  extending  from  W.  to  N.  E.  and  trending  N. 
68°  E.  true.  As  the  weather  was  urisettled,  I  stood  off  until  four 
o'clock,  and  then  tacked,  and  at  eight  again  saw  the  ice  a  few  miles 
to  the  south-eastward  of  our  position  the  day  before.  We  ran  along 
its  edge,  and  at  noon  observed  the  Mtitude  in  70**  06' .  N. 

Occasional  thick  weather  and  snow  showei's  obliged  us  to  keep  at 
a  greater  distance  from  the  pack,  and  we  lost  sight  of  it  for  several 
hours  ;  but  finding  by  the  increase  of  temperature  of  the  water  that 
our  course  led  us  too  much  from  it,  at  nine  o'clock  I  steered  N.N.E. 
true.  And  at  midnight  was  again  close  upon  it.  The  ice  was 
compact  as  before,  except  near  the  edge,  and  extended  (toni  W.S. 
W.  to  N.N.E.  mag*  trending  N.  56"  E.  triie.  We  now  followed 
its  course  closely  to  the  eastward,  artd  foUnd  it  gradually  turning 
to  the  southward.  At  three  o'clock  the  wind  veered  to  south-west 
with  snow  showers  and  thick  weather ;  and  as  this  brought  us  upori 
alee  shore,  I  immediatly  hauled  off  the  ice,  and  carried  a  press  of 
sail  to  endeavour  to  weather  Icy  C&pe.  The  edge  of  the  packed 
ice  at  this  time  was  in  latitude  70**  47'  N.  trending  south-eastward, 
and  gradually  approaching  the  land  to  the  eastward  of  Icy  Cape. 
By  the  information  of  Lieutenant  Belcher,  who  was  off  the  Cape  at 
this  time,  though  not  within  sight  of  the  ship,  it  closed  thd  land 
about  twenty-seven  miles  east  of  Icy  Cape; 

The  passage  that  was  left  between  it  and  the  beach  was  extremely 
narrow  ;  and,  judging  from  the  effect  of  the  westerly  winds  off  Ref- 
uge Inlet  the  preceding  year,  it  must  soon  have  closed  up,  as  those 
winds  blew  with  great  strength  about  the  time  we  hauled  off. 
57 


i 


5» 


i  \ 


'i 


.  »,'' 


i 


u 


n 

n 

I* 


'iu 


# 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


1.0    !f  1^  I 


I.I 


1^ 

50 

^   1^ 


11-25  III  1.4 


-    6" 


20 

1.6 


Hiotographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  y  SET  MAIN  ST-igET 

V\IiBSTER,t4.Y.  14SS0 

(716)  872-4503 


« 


fV 


:\ 


\ 


'^..1* 


<.- 


i^^^^ 


& 


U.A 


450 


VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFrC 


\Avg 


From  lliis  it  appears  thai  the  hno  of  packed  ice,  in  tlie  meridian 
of  icy  cape,  was  twenty-four  miles  to  the  southward  of  its  position 
the  preceding  year,  and  that  it  was  on  llie  wliolc  much  nearer  the 
continent  of  America.  With  the  ice  thus  pressing  upon  the  Amcr- 
can  coast,  and  with  the  prevalence  of  westerly  winds,  by  which  this 
season  was  distinguished,  there  would  have  been  very  little  prospect 
of  a  vessel  bent  upon  effecting  the  passage  succeeding  even  in  reacliing 
Point  Barrow. 

The  wind  continuing  to  blow  from  the  S.  W.  with  thick  weather 
and  showers  of  snow,  we  endeavoured  to  get  an  offing,  and  at  ten 
o'clock  tacked  a  mile  off  the  land  near  Icy  Cape.  In  the  after- 
noon we  stood  again  to  the  southward,  and  the  next  day  fetched  in- 
to the  bay  near  Cape  Beaufort,  and  at  night  hove  to  ofTCape  Lisbnrn 
with  thick  and  cold  weather.  The  next  morning,  being  moderate, 
afforded  us  the  only  opportunity  we  had  hitherto  had  of  depositing 
some  information  for  Captain  Franklin's  party.  The  boat  landed 
near  the  Cape,  and  buried  one  bottle  for  him  and  another  for  Lieu- 
tenant Belcher,  whom  we  had  not  seen  since  we  parted  atChamisso 
Island.  In  the  evening  we  stretched  toward  Point  Hope,  for  tliij 
purpose  of  depositing  a  bottle  there  also,  as  it  was  a  point  which 
could  not  escape  Captain  Franklin's  observation  in  his  route  along 
shore ;  but  the  wind  increasing  from  the  westward  occasioned  a 
heavy  surf  upon  the  beach,  and  obliged  the  ship  to  keep  in  the  offing. 

Seeing  that  we  could  not  remain  sufficiently  close  in  shore  to  be 
of  use  to  our  friends  during  the  westerly  winds  and  thick  weather. 
I  determined  upon  the  examination  of  the  inlet  discovered  by  Mr 
Elson  to  the  eastward  of  Cape  Prince  of  Wales,  and  made  sail  for 
ttotzebue  Sound,  for  the  purpose  of  leaving  there  the  necessary 
information  for  Captain  Franklin  and  Lieutenant  Belcher,  in  the 
event  of  either  arriving  during  our  absence. 

We  passed  Cape  Krusenstern  about  sunset  on  the  25th  ;  and  in 
running  along  shore  after  dark  our  attention  was  directed  to  a  large 
fire  kindled  as  if  for  the  purpose  of  attracting  our  notice.  As  this 
was  the  signal  agreed  upon  between  Captain  Franklin  and  myself, 
and  as  we  had  not  before  seen  a  fire  in  the  night  on  any  part  of  the 
coast,  we  immediately  brought  to,  and,  to  our  great  satisfaction  at 
the  moment,  observed  a  boat  pulling  towards  the  ship.  Our  anxie- 
ty at  her  approach  may  be  imagined,  when  we  thought  we  could 
discover  with  our  telescopes,  by  the  light  of  the  aurora  borealis,  that 
she  was  propelled  by  oars  instead  of  paddles.  But  just  as  our 
expectation  was  at  the  highest,  we  were  accosted  by  the  Esquimau:; 
in  their  usual  manner,  and  all  our  hopes  vanished.  I  fired  a  gun, 
however,  in  case  their  might  be  any  persons  on  shore  who  could  not 
come  ofl'to  us;  but  the  signal  not  being  answered,  we  pursued  our 
course  for  Chamisso. 

For  the  first  time  since  we  entered  Beering's  Strait  the  night  was 


'-9t' 


1827.] 


AND    BEEKINg's    STRAIT. 


451 


clear,  and  the  aurora  borealis  sweeping  across  the  I'eavens  remind- 
ed us  that  it  was  exactly  on  that  night  twelvemonth  that  we  saw  this 
beautiful  phenomenon  lor  the  first  time  in  these  seas.  A  short  time 
before  it  began,  a  brilliant  meteor  fell  in  the  western  quarter.  The 
aurora  is  at  all  times  an  object  of  interest,  and  seldom  apj)ears  with- 
out some  display  worthy  of  admiration,  tliough  the  expectation  is 
seldom  completely  gratified.  The  uncertainty  of  its  movements, 
and  of  the  moment  when  it  may  breakout  into  splendour,  has,  how- 
ever, the  effect  of  keeping  the  attention  continually  on  the  alert ; 
many  of  us  in  consequence  stayed  up  to  a  late  hour,  but  nothing  was 
exhibited  on  this  occasion  more  than  we  had  already  repeatedly 
witnessed. 

We  were  more  fortunate  the  following  night,  when  the  aurora  ap- 
proached nearer  the  southern  horizon  than  it  h  id  done  on  any  form- 
er occasion  that  we  had  observed  in  this  part  of  the  globe.  It  com- 
menced much  in  the  usual  manner,  by  forming  an  arch  from  W.N. 
VV.  to  E.  N.  E.,  and  then  soared  rapidly  to  the  zenith,  where  the 
streams  of  light  rolled  into  each  other,  and,  exhibited  brilliant  col- 
ours of  purple,  pink,  and  green.  It  then  became  dilFuscd  over  the 
sky  generally,  leaving  about  8°  of  clear  space  between  it  and  the 
northern  and  southern  horizons.  From  this  tranquil  state  it  again 
suddenly  poured  out  corruscations  from  all  parts,  which  shot  up  to 
the  zenith,  and  formed  a  splendid  cone  of  rays,  blending  pink,  pur- 
ple and  green  colours  in  all  their  varieties.  This  singular  and  beau- 
tiful exhibition  lasted  only  a  few  minutes,  when  the  light  as  before 
became  diffused  over  the  sky  in  a  bright  haze. 

We  anchored  at  Chamisso  on  the  2Gth,  and,  after  depositing  the 
necessary  information  on  shore,  weighed  the  next  morning  to  pro- 
ceed to  examine  the  inlet.  We  were  scarcely  a  league  from  the 
land  when  our  attention  was  again  arrested  by  a  fire  kindled  upon 
llie  Peninsula,  and  eight  or  ten  persons  standing  upon  the  heights 
waving  to  the  ship.  The  disappointment  of  the  preceding  night 
ought  certainly  to  have  put  us  upon  our  guard  ;  but  die  desire  of 
meeting  our  countrymen  induced  us  to  transform  every  object  ca- 
pable of  misconstruction  into  something  favourable  to  our  wishes, 
and  our  expectations  on  this  occasion  carried  us  so  far  that  some  im- 
agined they  could  perceive  the  party  to  be  dressed  in  European 
clothes.  A  boat  was  immediately  despatched  to  the  shore  ;  but,  as 
the  reader  has  already  begun  to  suspect,  it  was  a  party  of  Esqui- 
maux, who  wished  to  dispose  of  some  skins  for  tobacco. 

This  disappointment  lost  us  a  favourable  tide,  and  we  did  not  clear 
the  sound  before  the  night  of  the  i29th.  After  passing  Cape  Es- 
pcnberg,  a  strong  north-west  wind  made  it  necessary  to  stand  off 
shore,  in  doing  which  the  water  shoaled  from  thirteen  to  nine  fath- 
oms upon  a  bank  lying  off  Schisniareff  Inlet,  and  again  deepened  to 


I 


I 

•     '.X 


V 

■  h 


strait  the  night  was 


I 


4Sa 


VOYAGE  TO    THE    PACJFIC 


[^1/^. 


thirteen  :  we  then  bore  away  for  the  strait,  and  at  eleven  o'clock  saw 
the  Diomede  Islands,  thirteen  leagues  distant ;  and  about  four  o'clock 
rounded  Cape  Prince  of  Wales  very  close,  in  twenty-seven  fathoms 
water. 

This  celebrated  promontory  is  the  western  termination  of  a  peak- 
ed mountain,  which,  being  connected  with  the  main  by  low  ground, 
at  a  distance  has  the  appearance  of  being  isolated.  The  promon- 
tory is  bold,  and  remarkable  by  a  number  of  ragged  points  and  large 
fragments  of  rock  lyiag  upon  the  ridge  whidi  connects  the  cape  with 
the  peak.  About  a  mile  to  the  northward  of  the  cape,  some  low 
land  begins  to  project  from  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  taking  fin  a 
northerly  and  then  a  north-easterly  direction  to  SchismarefF  I»let. 
Off  this  point  we  afterwards  found  a  dangerous  shoal,  upon  which 
the  sea  broke  heavily.  The  natives  have  a  village  upon  the  low 
land  near  the  cape  called  Eidannoo,  and  another  inland,  named  King^ 
a-ghe :  and  as  they  generally  select  the  mouths  of  rivers  for  their  res- 
idences, it  is  not  improbable  that  a  stream  may  here  empty  itself  into 
the  sea,  which,  meeting  the  current  through  the  straight,  may  oc- 
casion theslioal^  About  fourteen  mJles  inland  from  Eidannoo,  there 
is  a  remarkable  conical  hill,  often  visible  when  the  mountain-tops 
are  covered,  which,  being  well  fixed,  will  be  found  useful  at  such 
t,iniea  by  aliips  passing  through  the  strait.  Twelve  miles  further  in- 
lapd,  the  country  becomes  moiuitainous,  and  is  remarkable  for  its 
sharp  ridges.  The  altitude  of  one  of  the  peaks,  wliich  is  nearly 
the  highest  on  the  range,  is  2596  feet.  These  mountains,  being  thick- 
ly covered  with  snow,  gave  the  country  a  very  wintry  aspect. 

To  the  southward  of  Cape  Prince  of  Wales  the  coast  trends  near- 
ly due  east,  and  assumes  a  totally  different  character  to  that  which 
leads  to  SchismarefF  Inlet,  being  bounded  by  steep  rocky  clifls,  and 
broken  by  deep  valleys,  while  the  other  is  low  and  swampy  ground. 
The  river  called  by  the  natives  Youp- nut  must  lie  m  one  of 
these  valleys  ;  and  in  all  probability  it  is  in  that  which  opens  out  near 
a  bold  promontory,  to  which  I  have,  given  the  name  of  York,  in 
honour  of  his  late  Royal  Highness.  On  nearing  that  part  of  the 
coast  we  found  the  water  more  shallow  than  usual. 

Having  passed  the  night  off  Cape  York  on  the  31st,  we  steercj 
to  the  eastward,  and  shortly  discovered  a  low  spit  of  land  projecting 
about  ten  miles  from  the  coast,  which  here  forms  a  right  angle,  and 
haviog  a  channel  about  two  miles  wide  between  its  extremity  and 
the  northern  shore.  We  sailed  through  this  opening,  and  entered 
a  spacious  harbour,  capable  of  holding  a  great  many  ships  of  the 
line.  We  landed  first  on  the  low  spit  at  the  enti'auce,  and  then 
stood  across,  nine  miles  to  the  eastward,  and  came  to  anchor  off  a 
bold  cape,  having  carried  nothing  less  tlian  five  and  a  half  fathoni.s 
water  the  whole  of  the  way. 


■  ^  'qr  1—  i»  ■»— .'-.^-K.- 


ren  o'clock  saw 
)ut  four  o'clock 
-seven  fathoms 

ation  of  a  peak- 
by  low  ground, 
The  promon- 
points  and  large 
;ts  the  cape  with 
sape,  some  low 
,  taking  fir-t  a 
hismarefF  lolet,. 
al,  upon  which 
J  upon  the  low 
nd,  named  King- 
vers  for  thein  res- 
empty  itself  into 
traight,  may  oc- 
Eidannoo,  there 
le  mountain-tops 
d  useful  at  such 
;  miles  further  in- 
imarkable  for  its 
,  wlkich  is  nearly 
tains,  being  thlck- 
ilry  aspect, 
coast  trends  near- 
ter  to  that  which 
rocky  cliffs,  and 
swampy  ground, 
st   lie    m.  one  of 
ch  opens  out  near 
lame  of  York,  in 
that  part  of  the 

31sti,  we  sfceeicJ 
of  land  projecting 
a  right  angle,  and 
ts  extremitiy  and 
ling,  and  entered 
loy  ships  of  the 
itiauce,  and  then 
J  to  anchor  off  a 
,d  a  half  fathoms 


1827.] 


AND    BEERINO  S    STRAIT. 


453 


The  following  morning,  Sept.  1st,  we  stood  toward  an  opening  at 
the  north-east  angle  of  the  harbour;  but  finding  the  water  get 
gradually  shallow,  came  again  to  anchor.  On  examination  with 
the  boats,  we  found,  as  we  expected,  an  inner  harbour,  ten  miles 
in  length  by  two  and  a  quarter  in  width,  with  almost  an  uniform 
depth  of  two  and  a  half  and  three  fathoms  water.  The  channel 
into  it  from  the  outer  harbour  is  extremely  narrow,  the  entrance 
being  contracted  by  two  sandy  spits  :  but  the  w^ater  is  deep,  and  in 
one  part  there  is  not  less  than  twelve  fathoms.  At  the  upper  end 
of  the  harbour  a  second  strait,  about  three  hundred  yards  in  width, 
was  formed  between  steep  cliffs  ;  but  this  channel  was  also  contrac- 
ted by  sandy  points.  The  current  rail  strong  through  the  channel, 
and  brought  down  a,  great  body  of  water,  nearly  fresh  (1.0096  sp.- 
gr.)  The  boats  had  not  time  to  pursue  this  strait :  but  in  all  prob- 
ability it  communicates  with  a  large  inland  lake,  as  described  by 
the  natives  in  Kotzebue  Sound.  At  the  entrance  of  the  strait,  cal- 
led Tokshook  by  the  natives,  there  is  an  Esquimaux  village,  and 
upon  the  northern  and  eastern  shores  of  the  harbour  there  are  twa 
others  ;  the  population  of  the  whole  amounted  to  about  four  hund- 
red perons..  They  closely  resembled  the  natives  we  had  seen  be- 
fore, except  that  they  were  better  provided  with  clothing  and  their 
implements  were  neater  and  more  ingeniously  made.  Among  their 
peltry  we  noticed  several  gray  fox  and  lan.drOtter  skins,,  but  they 
would  not  part  with  them  for  less  than  a  hatchot  apiece.  In  addi- 
tion to  the  usual  weapons  of  bows  and  arrows,  these  people  had 
short  iron  spears  neatly  inlaid  with  brass,  upon  all  which  implementii 
they  set  great  value,  and  kept  them  wrapped  in  skins.  Among 
the  inhabitants  of  the  village  on  the  northern  shore  named  Choono- 
wuck,  there  were  several  girls  with  massive  iron  bracelets.  One 
had  a  curb  chain  for  a  necklace,  and  another  a  bell  suspended  ip, 
front  in  the  manner  described  the  preceding  year  at  Choris  Penin- 
sula. 

There  are  very  k\v  natives  in  the  outer  harbour.  On  the  »or- 
thera  side  there  is  a  village  of  yourts,  to  which  the  inhabitants  ap- 
parently resort  only  in  the  winter.  At  the  time  of  our  visit  it  was> 
in  charge  of  an  old  man,  his  wife,  and  daughter,  who  received  us 
civilly,  and  gave  us  some  fish.  The  yourts  were  in  a  very  ruinous 
condition  :  some  were  hajf  filled  with  water,  and  all  were  filthy.. 
By  several  articles  and  cooking  utensils  left  upon  1,he  shelves,  and 
by  some  sledges  which  were  secreted  in  the  bushes,,  the  inhabitants^ 
evidently  intended  to  return  as  soon  as  the  frost  should  consolidate 
all  the  stagnant  water  within  and  about  their  dwellings.  One  of 
these  yourts  was  so  capacious  that  it  could  only  have  been  intended 
as  an  assembly  or  banquetting  room,  and  corresponded  with  the  de- 
Sicription  of  similar  rooms  tuuoiig  the  easteru  Esquimaux. 


'(■ 


'Ik-  1 1 


'%» 


it 


n 


I 

I  r- 


<?,,     r 


:^£'  • 


.    h 


I     / 


,-h 


ISd 


VOYAClli    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[Sept. 


# 


Tliere  was  a  bui-yiiig  ground  near  the  village  in  which  we  noiicu- 
va\  several  bodies  wra])ped  in  skins,  and  deposited  upon  drift  wood 
with  iVanies oi' canoes,  and  sledges,  Jitc.  placed  near  them,  as  uhemly 
described  at  the  entrance  of  ilotham  Inlet.  The  old  man  whom 
we  found  at  this  place  gave  the  same  names  to  the  villages  at  tlio 
head  of  the  inner  harbour,  and  to  the  points  of  land  at  its  entrance 
as  we  had  received  from  the  natives  of  King-a-ghe  whom  we  met  in 
Kotzebue  Sound. 

His  daughter  had  the  hammer  of  a  musket  suspended  about  her 
neck,  and  held  it  so  sacred  that  she  would  scarcely  submit  it  to  ex- 
amination, and  afterwards  carefully  concealed  it  within  her  dress. 
She  was  apparently  very  modest  and  bashful,  and  behaved  with  so 
n)uch  propriety  that  it  was  a  pleasure  to  find  such  sentiments  exist- 
ing beneath  so  uncouth  an  exterior. 

Upon  the  low  point  at  the  entrance  of  the  inner  harbour,  called 
Nooke  by  the  natives,  there  were  some  Esquimaux  fishermen,  who 
reminded  us  of  a  former  acquintance  at  Chamisso  Island,  and  salu- 
ted us  so  warmly  that  we  felt  sorry  their  reccollection  had  not  en- 
tirely failed  them.  They  appear  to  have  established  themselves  on 
the  point  for  the  purpose  of  catching  and  drying  fish  :  and  from  the 
number  of  salmon  that  were  leaping  in  the  channel,  we  should  luivu 
thought  they  would  have  been  more  successful.  They  had,  how- 
ever, been  fortunate  in  taking  plenty  of  cod,  and  some  species  of  sal- 
mon trout :  they  had  also  caught  some  herrings. 

We  were  also  recognised  by  a  party  from  the  southern  shores  of 
the  harbour,  who  the  preceding  year,  had  extended  their  fishing  ex- 
cursions from  this  place  to  Kotzebue  Sound.  These  were  some  ol' 
the  most  cleanly  and  well-dressed  people  we  had  seen  on  the  coast. 
Their  residence  was  at  King-a-ghe — a  place  which,  judging  from 
the  respectability  of  its  inhabitants,  whom  we  had  seen  elsewhere, 
must  be  of  importance  among  the  Esquimaux  establishments  upon 
this  coast. 

These  two  ports,  situated  so  near  Beering's  Strait,  loay  at  some 
future  time  be  of  greater  importance  to  navigation,  as  they  will  be 
found  particularly  useful  by  vessels  which  may  not  wish  to  pass  the 
strait  in  bad  weather.  To  the  outer  harbour,  which  for  convenience 
and  security  surpasses  any  other  near  Beering's  Strait  with  which 
we  arc  acquinted,  I  attached  the  name  of  Port  Clarence,  in.  honour 
of  his  most  gracious  Majesty,  then  Duke  of  Clarence.  To  the  in- 
ner, which  is  well  adapted  to  the  purposes  of  repair,  and  is  suciflient- 
ly  deep  to  receive  a  frigate,  provided  she  lands  her  guns,  which  can 
be  done  conveniently  upon  the  sandy  point  at  the  entrance,  I  gave 
the  name  of  Grantley  Harbour,  in  compliment  to  Lord  (jiaiitloy. 
To  the  points  at  the  entranceof  Port  Clarence  I  attached  the  names 
of  S[)enccr  and  Jackson,  in  compliment  to  Capl.  the  Honourable 


4 


■  Ql«i    •*    ■»♦- 


1827.] 


AND  nF.F.nixn  s  strait. 


4r, 


nded  about  her 
submit  it  to  ex- 
thin  her  dress. 
jehaved  with  so 
entiiHcnts  cxisl- 

harbour,  called 
fishermen,  who 
sland,  and  sahi- 
tion  had  not  en- 
ad  themselves  on 
ih  :  and  from  the 
,  we  should  luivo 
They  had,  how- 
me  species  ot  sal- 

outhcrn  shores  ol 
\  their  fishing  e\- 
icse  were  some  ol' 
seen  on  the  const. 
ich,  judging  iVoni 
I  seen  elsewhere, 
ablishmcnts  upon 


Sir  Robert  Sponcor  and  Captain  Sainnel  .Jack'son,  C.B.,  two  distin- 
gnished  ollicors  in  the  naval  service :  to  tlic  latter  of  whom  1  am 
indebted  for  my  earliest  connexion  with  the  voyages  of  northern 
Discovery. 

The  northern  and  eastern  shores  of  Port  Clarence  slope  from 
the  mountains  to  the  sea,  and  are  occasionally  terminated  by  rlhls 
composed  of  fine  and  talcy  mica  slate,  intersected  by  veins  of 
calcareous  spar  of  a  pearly  lustre,  mixed  with  c;rey  quartz.  The 
soil  is  covered  with  a  thick  coating  of  moss,  among  which  there  is 
a  very  limited  flora  :  the  valleys  and  hollows  arc  filled  with  dwarf 
willow  and  birch.  The  country  is  swampy  and  full  of  ruts  ;  and 
vegetation  on  the  whole,  even  on  the  north  side  of  the  harbour, 
which  had  a  southern  aspect,  was  more  backward  than  in  Kotezbue 
Sound  ;  still  we  found  here  three  species  of  plants  we  had  not  seen 
before.  Plants  that  were  going  to  seed  when  we  left  that  island 
were  here  only  just  in  full  ilower,  and  berries  that  were  there  over 
ripe  were  here  scarcely  fit  to  be  eaten.  On  the  northern  side  of 
Grantly  Harbour,  Mr.  Collie  found  a  bed  of  purple  j)rimulas,  ane- 
mones, and  oi  iJodecathcons,'\\\  full  and  fresh  blossom,  amidst  a  cov- 
ering of  snow  that  had  fallen  the  preceding  night. 

The  southern  side  of  Port  Clarence  is  a  low  diluvial  formation, 
covered  with  grass,  and  intersected  by  narrow  channels  and  lakes  ; 
it  projects  from  a  range  of  cliffs  which  appear  to  have  been  once 
upon  the  coast,  and  sweeping  round,  terminates  in  a  low  shingly 
point  (Point  Spencer.)  In  one  place  this  point  is  so  narrow  and 
low,  that  in  a  heavy  gale  of  wind  the  sea  must  almost  inundate  it; 
to  the  northward,  however,  it  becomes  wider  and  higher,  and,  by 
the  remains  of  some  yourts  upon  it,  has  at  one  time  been  the  resi- 
dence of  Esquimaux.  Like  the  land  just  described,  it  is  intersected 
with  lakes,  some  of  which  rise  and  fall  with  the  tide,  and  is  covered, 
though  scantily,  with  a  coarse  grass,  elymus,  among  which  we  found 
a  species  of  artemesia,  probably  new.  Near  Point  Spencer  the 
beach  has  been  forced  up  by  some  extraordinary  pressure  into  ridges, 
of  which  the  outer  one,  ten  or  twelve  feet  above  the  sea,  is  the  high- 
est. Upon  and  about  these  ridges  tliere  is  a  great  quantity  of  drift 
timber,  but  more  on  the  inner  side  of  the  point  than  the  outer. 
Some  has  been  deposited  upon  the  point  before  the  ridges  of  sand 
were  formed,  and  is  now  mouldering  away  with  the  effect  of  time, 
while  other  logs  are  less  decayed  ;  and  that  which  is  lodged  on  the 
outer  part  is  in  good  preservation,  and  serves  the  natives  for  bows 
and  fishing  staves. 

-  We  saw  several  reindeer  upon  the  hilly  ground  ;  in  the  lakes, 
wild  ducks  :  and  upon  the  low  point  of  the  inner  harbour,  golden 
plover,  and  sanderlings,  and  a  gull  very  much  resembling  the  larus 
sabini. 


■if.\  1 


'3ft- 


W 


h 


■i 


I 


'*^' 


4: 


150 


VOYACe  TO  TItE  PAClflC 


[Sept. 


The  survey  of  these  capacious  harbours  occupied  us  until  the  5th 
nhen  wo  had  completed  nearly  all  that  was  necessary,  and  the 
weatiier  set  in  with  such  severity  that  1  was  anxious  to  get  to  Kotz- 
ebue  Sound.  For  the  three  preceding  days  the  weather  had  been 
cold,  with  heavy  falls  of  snow  ;  and  the  seamen,  the  boat's  crews  in 
particular,  suffered  from  their  exposure  to  it,  and  from  the  harrassing 
duty  which  was  indispensable  from  the  expeditious  execution  of  the 
survey.  On  this  dayj  the  5th,  thermometer  stood  at  25  l-2o,  and 
the  lakes  on  shore  were  frozen.  We  accordingly  weighed,  but  not 
being  able  to  get  out,  passed  a  sharp  frosty  night  in  the  entrance  ; 
and  next  mornin;^,  favoured  with  an  easterly  wind.  Weighed  and 
steered  for  the  strait.  As  we  receded  from  Point  Spencer,  tlie 
difficulty  of  distinguishing  it  even  at  a  short  distance,  accounted  for 
this  excellent  port  having  been  overlooked  by  Cook,  who  anchored 
within  a  veryfe\v  miles  of  its  entrance. 

As  we  neareci  Beering's  Strait  the  wind  increased,  and  on  round- 
ing Cape  Prince  of  Wales,  obliged  us  to  reduce  our  sails  to  the  close 
reef.  On  leaving  the  port  the  wind  had  been  from  the  eastward, 
but  it  now  drew  to  the  northward,  and  compelled  us  to  carry  sail,  in 
order  to  weather  the  Diomede  Islands.  Whilst  we  were  thus  pres- 
sed, John  Dray,  one  of  the  seamen  unfortunately  fell  overboard 
from  the  lookout  at  the  masthead,  and  sunk  alongside  a  boat  which 
was  sent  to  him,  after  having  had  his  arms  round  two  of  the  oars. 
This  was  the  only  accident  of  the  kind  that  had  occurred  since  the 
ship  had  been  in  commission,  and  it  was  particularly  unfortunate 
that  it  should  have  fallen  to  the  lot  of  so  good  a  man  as  Dray.  Pre- 
vious to  his  entry  in  the  ship  he  resided  some  time  at  the  Marque- 
sas Islands,  and  was  so  well  satisfied  with  the  behaviour  of  the  na- 
tives of  that  place  that  he  purposed  living  amongst  them  ;  but  being 
on  board  a  boat  belonging  to  Baron  Wrangel's  ship,  at  a  time  when 
the  islanders  made  a  most  unjustifiable  attack  upon  her,  he  was 
afraid  to  return  to  the  shore,  and  accompanied  the  Baiv^n  to  Petro- 
paulski,  where  I  received  him  and  another  seamen,  similarly  circum- 
stanced, into  the  ship. 

Toward  night  the  wind  increased  to  a  gale,  and  split  almost  every 
sail  that  was  spread  ;  the  weather  was  dark  and  thick,  with  heavy 
falls  of  snow  ;  and  suspecting  there  might  be  a  current  setting  through 
the  strait,  we  anxiously  looked  out  for  the  Diomede  Islands,  which 
were  to  leeward,  and  we  were  not  a  little  surprised  to  find,  on  the 
weather  clearing  up  shortly  after  daylight  the  following  morning, 
that  there  had  been  a  current  running  nearly  against  the  wind,  ai 
the  rate  of  upwards  of  a  mile  an  hour,  in  a  N.  41°  W.  direction. 

From  the  time  we  quitted  Port  Clarence  the  temperature  began 
to  rise,  and  this  morning  stood  four  degrees  above  the  freezing  point. 
Change  of  locality  was  the  only  apparent  cause  for  this  increase, 


[Sept. 

3  until  the  5lh, 
isary,  and   tlie 
to  get  to  Kotz- 
ther  had  been 
boat's  crews  in 
ii  the  harrassing 
!xecution  of  the 
It  23   l-2o,  and 
eighed,  but  not 
1  the  entrance ; 
I,   \veighed  and 
nl  Spencer,  the 
;,  accounted  for 
,  who  anchored 

1,  and  on  round- 

•  sails  to  the  close 

Ti  the  eastward, 

3  to  carfy  sail, in 

B  were  thus  pres- 

y   fell  overboard 

ide  a  boat  which 

two  of  the  oars. 

jcurred  since  the 

larly  unfortunate 

as  Dray.     Pre- 

at  the  Marque- 

iviour  of  the  na- 

them;  but  being 

at  a  time  when 

pon  her,  he  was 

Baiv^n  to  Petro- 

similariy  circum- 

:plit  almost  every 

hick,  with  heavy 

nt  setting  through 

de  Islands,  which 

to  find,  on  the 
jUowing  morning, 
nst  the  wind,  ai 
°  W.  direction, 
emperaturd  began 
the  freezing  point- 

for  this  increase. 


1827.] 


AND    BKF.ni.Vf;  S    STRAIT. 


457 


and  it  is  very  probable  that  the  vicinity  of  the  mountains  to  Port 
Clarence  is  the  cause  of  he  tejnperature  of  tliat  |)laco  being  lower 
tlian  it  is  at  sea. 

In  the  morning  we  saw  a  great  many  walrusses  and  whales,  and 
observed  large  flocks  of  ducks  migrating  to  the  southward.  The 
coast  on  both  sides  was  covered  with  snow,  and  every  tiling  looked 
wintry.  The  wind  about  this  time  changed  to  N.  W.,  and  by  the 
evening  carried  us  ofF  the  entrance  of  Kotzebuc  Sound,  when  we 
encountered,  as  usual,  an  easterly  wind,  and  beat  up  all  nigiit  with 
thick  misty  weather. 

In  our  run  to  this  place  wo  again  passed  over  a  shoal,  with  eight 
and  a  half  and  nine  fathoms  water  upon  it,  oft'  SchismarefT  inlet. 
After  beating  all  night  in  very  thick  weather,  on  the  9th  of  Septem- 
ber we  stood  in  for  the  northern  sliore  of  the  sound,  expecting  to 
make  the  land  well  to  windward  of  Cape  Blossom,  where  the  sound- 
ings decrease  so  gradually  that  a  due  attention  to  the  lead  is  the 
only  precaution  necessary  to  prevent  running  on  shore ;  but  there 
had  unfortunately  been  a  strong  current  during  the  night,  whic!^  had 
drifted  the  ship  towards  Hotham  Inlet,  where  the  water  shoaling 
suddenly  from  five  fathoms  to  two  and  a  half,  the  ship  struck  upon 
the  sand  while  in  the  act  of  going  about,  and  soon  became  fixed  by 
the  current  running  over  the  shoal.  In  consequence  of  this  current 
our  small  boats  experienced  the  utmost  difticulty  in  carrying  out  an 
anchor,  but  they  at  length  succeeded,  though  to  no  purpose,  as  the 
ship  was  immoveable.  Looking  to  the  possible  result  of  this  catas- 
trophe, we  congratulated  ourselves  on  having  the  barge  at  hand  to 
convey  the  crew  to  Kamschatka,  little  suspecting,  from  an  accident 
which  had  already  befallen  her,  in  what  a  helpless  condition  each 
party  was  at  that  moment  placed.  Fortunately  we  were  not  reduc- 
ed to  the  necessity  of  abandoning  the  ship,  which  appearances  at 
one  time  led  us  to  apprehend,  as  the  wind  moderated  shortly  after 
she  struck,  and  on  the  rising  of  the  next  tide  she  went  off  without 
having  received  any  apparent  injury. 


58 


; ! 


-M 


t       r 


I 


»i  1 


458 


VDVAtiF.  TO    T1IK   I'ACIKir: 


\S,p,. 


m 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


Arrive  at  Cluimisso  Islniul — Fiiul  the  Uarg-c  wrecked — Lieutenant  Eelilier'n  Pio. 
ceediiiir-i — C'Diului't  oftlie  natives— Approacli  of  winter — Final  Departure  fmni 
the  I' liar  Sea — Oli.-iervatioiirf  lipnn  the  jircilialiility  of  the  Niirth-West  Passniro 
from  the  I'ai'i lie — Ueniaik:i  upon  tlie  Tribe  inhabiting- the  North-VVest  Coasl  of 
America — I{eturn  (o  California — Touch  at  San  Bias,  Valparaiso,  Coquimlxi,  Ili,, 
Janeiro — Conclusion. 

Alter  hiiving  so  narrowly  escaped  shipwreck,  we  beat  up  all  niglu 
with  thick  weather,  and  the  next  morning  steered  lor  Chamisso  Isl- 
and. As  we  approached  the  anchorage  we  were  greatly  disappoint- 
ed at  not  seeing  the  barge  at  anchor,  as  her  time  had  expired  seve- 
ral days,  and  her  provisions  were  too  nearly  expended  for  her  to 
remain  at  sea  with  safety  to  her  crew  ;  but  on  scrutinizing  the  siioie 
with  our  f&lescopes,  we  discovered  a  flag  flying  upon  the  south-west 
point  of  Choris  Peninsula,  and  two  men  waving  a  piece  of  wlilte 
cloth  to  attract  attention.  Amidst  the  sensations  of  hope  and  fear, 
a  doubt  immediately  arose,  whether  the  people  we  saw  were  the 
long  looked  for  land  expedition,  or  the  crew  of  our  boat,  who  luid 
been  unfortunate  amongst  the  ice,  or  upon  the  coast,  in  the  late 
boisterous  weather.  The  possibility  of  its  being  the  party  undev 
Captain  Franklin  arrived  in  safety,  after  having  accomplished  its 
glorious  undertaking,  was  the  first,  because  the  most  ardent,  wish  of 
our  sanguine  minds ;  but  this  was  soon  contradicted  by  a  nearer 
view  of  the  flag,  which  was  clearly  distiiiguislied  to  bo  the  ensign  of 
our  own  boat,  hoisted  with  the  union  downwards,  indicative  of  dis- 
tress. The  boats  were  immediately  scui.  to  the  relief  of  the  suftcr- 
ers,  with  provisions  and  blankets,  concluding,  as  we  saw  only  part 
of  the  crew  stirring  about,  and  others  lying  down  within  a  small 
fence  erected  round  the  flag-staff",  that  they  were  ill,  or  had  receiv- 
ed hurts. 

On  the  rcttirn  of  the  first  ])oat  our  conjectures  as  to  the  fate  oi 
the  barge  were  confirmed  ;  but  with  tliis  difference,  that  instead  of 
having  been  lost  upon  the  coast  to  northward,  she  had  met  her  late 
in  Kotzebuo  Sound;  and  we  had  the  mortification  to  find  that  three 
of  the  crew  had  perished  with   her.     Thus,  at  the   very  time  thai 


\Srp,. 


1 8-27.  J 


ANn    HKi:uiN(i  S    STRAIT. 


459 


M 


naut  Bck'licr'ri  1'im- 
lUiil  Depiuturo  hmn 
Nortli-Wfst  I'a.s-.iL'i' 
Mortli-Wi'st  Cellist  uf 
aiso,   Cuciuimbu,  llio 


3  beat  up  all  nidu 
for  Clmmisso  Isl- 
;reatly  disapi)oint- 
lad  expired  sevc- 
pended  for  her  to 
itinizing  the  shore 
ion  the  soutli-wcst 
r  a  piece  of  white 
of  hope  and  four, 
c  saw  were  the 
,ir  boat,  who  luid 
:oast,  in   the  htc 
the  party  uiidcv 
accomplished  its 
ist  ardent,  wish  of 
ted  by   a  nearer 
o  be  tlie  ensign  of 
indicative  of  dis- 
Iclief  of  the  sull'cr- 
,vc  saw  only  part 
,vn  within  a  small 
ill,  or  had  rccoiv- 

js  to  the  fate  oi 
|cc,  that  instead  of 
3  had  met  her  fate 
J  to  find  that  three 
le   very  time  that 


we  were  consoling  ourselves,  in  the  event  of  our  misforluiios  of  the 
preceding  day  terminating  disastrously,  that  wtj  should  receive  re- 
lief from  our  boat,  her  crew  were  antici|)atiiig  assistance  Irom  us. 

From  the  report  of  J.ieutenant  lielclier,  who  conunanded  tiie 
barge,  it  appears  that,  after  (piiling  Ciiamisso  Island^on  tiie  I'ith  ul- 
timo, he  proceeded  along  the  northern  shore  of  tlie  Sound,  and 
landed  upon  Cajjc  Krusenstern,  where  he  waited  a  short  time,  and 
not  seeing  the  ship,  the  weather  being  very  thick,  he  stood  on  for 
Cape  Tiiomson,  where  he  came  to  an  anchor,  and  replenished  his 
stock  of  water,  fic  met  some  natives  on  shore  who  inlormed  him 
•hat  the  ship  had  passed  to  the  northward  (which  was  not  true,) 
'id  he  therefore  pursued  his  course;  but  finding  the  weather  thick, 
1(1  the  wind  blowing  strong  from  the  S,  E.,  he  brought  to  under 
I  le  lee  of  Point  Hope,  and  examined  the  bay  formed  between  it  and 
Cape  Lisburn,  where  he  discovered  a  small  cove,  which  allbrded 
him  a  convenient  anchorage  in  two  fathoms,  muddy  bottom.  This 
cove,  which  1  have  named  after  his  relation,  Ca|)tain  iMurryat,  R. 
IN.  is  the  estuary  of  a  river,  which  has  no  doubt  contributed  to  throw 
up  the  point. 

After  Lieutenant  Belcher  had  constructed  a  jdan  of  the  cove,  he 
proceeded  to  Cape  Tiisburn ;  the  weather  still  thick,  and  the  wind 
blowing  at  S.  W.  He  nevertheless  effected  a  landing  upon  the 
north  side  of  the  Cape  and  observed  its  latitude  to  be  08°  5:2'  3"  N. 
and  the  variation  to  be  '■i-i'^  23'  E.  From  thence  he  kept  close 
along  the  shore,  for  the  purpose  of  falling  in  with  the  land  expedi- 
tion, and  arrived  off  Icy  Cape  on  the  IDth,  when  he  landed  and 
examined  every  place  in  the  hope  of  discovering  some  traces  of 
(^aptain  Franklin.  He  found  about  twenty  natives  on  the  point 
living  in  tents,  who  received  him  very  civilly,  and  assisted  him  to 
fill  his  water  casks  from  a  small  well  they  had  dug  in  the  sand  for 
their  own  use.  The  yourts,  w  hich  ren(Wi>d  this  jioinl  remarkable 
at  a  distance,  were  partly  filled  with  waicr,*and  partly  with  winter 
store  of  blubber  and  oil. 

From  Icy  Cape  he  stood  E.N.E.  ten  miles,  and  then  N.  E.  twen- 
ty-seven, at  which  time,  in  consequence  of  the  weather  continuing 
thick  and  the  wind  beginning  to  blow  hard  from  the  south-west,  he 
hauled  offshore  and  shortly  fell  in  with  the  main  body  of  ice,  which 
arrested  his  course  and  obliged  him  to  put  about.  It  blew  so  strong 
during  the  night  that  the  boat  cajrtfl  only  show  her  close-reefed 
mainsail  and  storm-jib,  under  whicfi  she  plied,  in  order  to  avoid  the 
ice  on  one  side  and  a  lee-shore  on  the  other :  the  boat  thus  pressed 
leaked  considerably, 'and  kept  the  crew  at  the  punij)s. 

On  the  21st  August,  the  weather  being  more  moderate,  he  again 
made  the  ice,  and  after  keeping  along  it  some  time,  returned  to  ley 
Cape,  and   found  that  the  edge  of  the  packed  ico  was  in  latitude 


I 


T      |i 

ft 


h 


>\ 


r 


-*w;l 


460 


VOYAOi:  TO  TIIK    PACIFIC 


70«>  41'  N.  in  a  N.N.W.  direclioii    from   tlio  cape,    cxtciuling  cast 
and  west  (true). 

On  tlio  i^yd  August  anollicr  landing  was  niadc  upon  Icy  C'apo 
and  its  latitude,  by  artificial  horizon,  ascertained  to  bo  70"  19  a^j. 
N.,  and  variation  by  Kater's  compass  '.]'2°  49'  E.  Lieutenant  Bel- 
cher's curiosity  was  here  greatly  awakened  by  one  of  the  natives 
leading  him  to  a  large  room  used  by  the  Esquimaux  for  dancing  iuid 
by  searching  for  a  billet  of  wood,  which  his  gestures  implied  had  l)eoM 
left  by  some  Europeans,  but  not  finding  it,  he  scrutinised  several 
chips  which  were  in  the  apartment,  and  intimated  that  some  per- 
son had  cut  it  up.  This  was  very  provoking,  as  Lieutenant  liel- 
cher  naturally  recurred  totho  possibility  of  Captain  Franklin  hav- 
ing returned  by  the  same  route.  Nothing,  however,  was  found, 
and  Lieutenant  Belcher,  after  depositing  a  notice  of  his  having  been 
there,  embarked  and  passed  the  night  off  the  Cape  in  heavy  falls  of 
snow,  hail  and  sleet.  The  next  day  he  again  fell  in  with  ice  in 
latitude  ".O"  40'  N.  which  determined  him  to  stand  back  to  tiie 
cape  and  examine  the  shoals  upon  which  the  ship  lost  her  anchor 
the  preceding  year. 

On  the  26th,  the  ice  was  again  found  in  70"  41'  N.  and  the  next 
day  was  traced  to  the  E.S.E.  to  within  five  or  six  miles  of  the  land, 
and  at  the  distance  of  about  twenty  miles  to  the  eastward  of  Icy  Cape. 
The  ice  appeared  to  be  on  its  passage  to  the  southward,  and  the 
bergs  were  large  and  scattered.  Under  these  circumstances.  Lieu- 
tenant Belcher,  to  avoid  being  beset,  stood  back  to  the  cape,  and 
had  some  difliculty  in  maintaining  his  station  off  there,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  severity  of  the  weather,  which  cased  his  sails,  and 
the  clothes  of  the  seamen  exposed  to  the  spray,  with  ice. 

Three  of  his  crew  at  this  time  became  invalids  with  chilblains  and 
ulcers  occasioned  by  the  cold  :  and  the  necessity  of  carrying  a  press 
of  sail  strained  the  boat  to  such  a  degree  that  she  again  leaked  so 
fast  as  to  require  the  junnps  to  be  kept  constantly  at  work.  It  be- 
came necessary,  therefore,  to  seek  slielter,  and  be  bore  up  for  Point 
Hope  ;  but  before  he  reached  that  place  'he  sea  broke  twice  over 
tne  stern  of  the  boat,  and  nearly  swamp  3d  her.  Upon  landing  at 
the  point  he  was  met  by  the  natives,  who  were  beginning  to  prepare 
their  yourts  for  the  winter.  His  crew  here  dried  their  clothes  for 
the  first  time  for  several  days,  and  Lieutenant  Belcher  having  obtain- 
ed the  latitude,  again  put  to  sea  ;  but  findiug  the  weather  still  so 
bad  that  he  could  not  keep  the  coast  with  safety,  and  the  period  of  his 
rendezvous  at  Chamisso  Island  having  arrived,  he  pursued  his  course 
for  that  place,  where  he  found  the  instructions  t  had  left  for  him  be- 
fore I  proceeded  to  examine  Port  Clarence. 

Among  other  things  he  was  desired  to  collect  a  quantity  of  drift- 
timber,  and  to  erect  an  observatory  upon  Choris  Peninsula  ;  in  which 


vKAvl^'tt* 


■p 


fi^ 


extending  cast 

ipon  ley  CapOj 
u  70"   19   28' 
jieutcnant  Ik-l- 
R  of  tho  natives 
for  dancinc;  and 
nplied  had  lioon 
utinised  S(3vural 
that  some  per- 
Liciitenant  liel- 
n  Franklin  liav- 
^er,  was   found, 

■  his  having  been 
in  heavy  lalls  of 

ell  in  with  ice  in 

nd  back  to  the 

lost  her  anchor 

■  N.  and  the  next 
miles  of  the  land, 
vardof  Icy  Cape, 
uthward,  and  the 
umstances,  Licu- 
3  the   cape,  and 

■  there,  in  conse- 
ed  his  sails,  and 
th  ice. 

th  chilblains  and 
carrying  a  press 

again  leaked  so 
at  work.     It  he- 
bore  up  for  Point 
)roke  twice  over 
Upon  landing  at 
mning  to  prepare 
their  clothes  for 
ler  having  obtain- 
e  weather  still  so 
d  the  period  of  bis 
mrsued  his  course 
d  left  for  him  be- 

quantity  of  drift- 
ninsula  ;  in  which 


1 


1827.] 


ANT)    BF.F.UINn's  STRAIT. 


461 


he  was  engaged,  when  the  wind  coming  suddenly  in  npon  the  shore 
where  the  barge  had  anchored,  the  crew  were  iimnodiately  ordered 
on  board.  It  unfortunately  happened  that  the  weather  was  so  fmu 
in  the  morning  that  only  two  persons  were  left  in  the  vessel,  anil  the 
boat  belonging  to  the  barge  being  small  could  take  only  four  at  a 
time.  One  boat  load  had  joined  the  vessel,  but  the  surf  rose  so 
suddenly  that  in  the  attempt  to  reach  her  a  second  time,  the  oars 
were  broken,  and  the  boat  was  thrown  back  by  the  sea,  and  rendered 
nearly  useless. 

Several  persevering  and  unsucc  'ssful  efforts  were  afterwards  made 
to  communicate  with  the  vessel,  which  being  anchored  in  shallow 
water  struck  hard  upon  the  ground,  and  soon  fdlcd.  Some  Es(jui- 
inaux  liappenod  to  have  a  baidar  near  the  spot,  and  Mr.  Belcher 
compelled  them  to  assist  him  in  reaching  the  barge ;  but  the  sea 
ran  too  high,  and  the  natives  not  being  willing  to  exert  themselves 
the  attempt  again  failed.  The  sea  was  now  making  a  breach  over 
the  vessel,  and  Mr.  Belcher  desired  the  cockswain  to  cut  the  cable, 
and  allow  her  to  come  broadside  upon  theshoie;  'nui  whether 
through  fear,  or  that  the  cockswain  did  not  understand  In.;  i  rders,  it 
was  not  done.  There  were  four  men  and  a  boy  on  bcaid  at  this 
time,  two  of  whom,  finding  no  hope  of  relief  from  the  bore,  jumped 
overboard,  with  spars  in  their  hands,  and  attenij  ltd  to  gain  the 
beach,  but  we'-e  unfortunately  drowned.  The  others  retreated  to 
the  rigginj, ;  i.nong  them  was  ahoy,  whose  cries  were  ior  some 
time  lieard  on  shore,  but  at  length,  exhausted  with  cold  and  fatigue. 


he  iell  from  the  rigging. 


and  was  never  seen  again. 


The  party  of  Esquimaux,  who  had  so  reluctantly  rendered  their 
personal  assistance,  beheld  this  loss  of  lives  with  the  greatest  com- 
posure giving  no  other  aid  than  that  of  their  prayers  and  superstitious 
ceremonies  ;  and  seeing  the  helpless  condition  of  those  thrown  uporv 
shore,  began  to  pilfer  every  thing  they  could,  bringing  tlie  party 
some  fish  occasionally,  not  from  charitable  motives,  but  for  the  pur- 
pose of  engaging  their  attention,  and  of  affording  themselves  abet- 
ter opportunity  of  purloining  the  many  articles  belonging  to  the  boat 
which  were  washed  ashore.  About  eleven  o'clock  at  night  the  sea 
began  to  subside,  and  at  midnight,  after  very  great  exertions,  a  com- 
munication with  the  vessel  was  effected  and  the  two  remaining  sea- 
men were  carried  on  shore,  and  laid  before  the  fire,  where  they  re- 
covered sufficiently  to  be  taken  to  a  hut  near  the  fatal  scene. 

The  morning  after  this  unfortunate  occurrence,  part  of  the  crew 
were  employed  collecting  what  was  washed  on  shore,  and  preven- 
ting the  natives  conrnnitting  further  depredations.  Seeing  there  was 
no  chance  of  obtaining  any  thing  more  of  consequence  from  the 
wreck,  the  party  took  up  its  quarters  on  Point  Garnet,  where  we 
foiir.d  them  on  our  return    from    Port  Clarence.     Previous  to  this. 


9 

♦: 


t 


t 
i 


} 


n 


1 


f 


h 


4G^i 


VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[Sept. 


several  Esquimaux  had  pitched  a  tent  in  the  bay  close  to  the  party 
and  lost  no  opportunity  of  appropiating  to  themselves  whatever  tlioy 
could  surreptitiously  obtain.  Among  these  were  four  persons  whom 
Mr.  Belcher  had  a  short  time  before  assisted,  when  their  baidar 
was  thrown  on  shore,  and  one  of  the  party  drowned.  These  peo- 
ple did  not  forget  his  kindness  and  brought  him  fish,  occasionally, 
but  they  could  not  resist  the  temptation  of  joining  their  companions 
in  plunder  when  it  was  to  be  had.  Mr.  Belcher  seeing  several  ar- 
ticles amongst  them  which  must  have  accompanied  others  in  iheir 
possession,  searched  their  bags,  and  recovered  the  boats  ensign,  and 
many  other  things.  No  opposition  was  offered  to  liils  examination 
but  on  the  contrary,  some  of  the  party  which  had  been  saved  from 
the  wreck  of  the  baidar,  intimated  to  Mr.  Belcher  that  a  man  who 
was  making  off  with  a  bag  had  part  of  his  property  ;  and  on  search- 
ing him,  a  quantity  of  the  boat's  iron  and  the  lock  of  a  fowling  piece 
were  discovered  upon  him. 

Upon  the  whole,  however,  the  natives  behaved  better  than  was 
expected,  until  the  day  on  which  the  ship  arrived.  This  appears  to 
have  been  a  timely  occurrence  ;  for  early  that  morning  two  baidars 
landed  near -jhe  wreck,  and  the  Esquimaux  party  was  increased  to 
twenty-four.  The  man  who  had  been  searched  the  preceding  eve- 
ning, finding  his  friends  so  numerous,  and  being  joined  by  another 
■  troublesome  character,  came  towards  our  people,  flourishing  his 
knife,  apparently  with  the  determination  of  being  revenged.  It  for- 
tunately happened  that  there  was  a  person  of  authority  amongst  the 
number,  with  whom  Mr.  Belcher  effected  a  friendship.  He  expos- 
tulated with  the  two  refractory  men,  and  one  of  them  went  quietly 
away,  but  the  other  remained  brandishing  his  weapon  :  and  there  is 
but  too  much  reason  to  believe  that,  had  he  commenced  an  attack 
he  would  have  been  seconded  by  his  countrymen,  notwithstanding 
the  interference  of  the  chief 

When  the  ship's  boat  came  to  the  relief  of  our  party,  Mr.  Belcher 
ordered  the  man  who  had  been  so  refractory  to  be  bound  and  taken 
on  board  the  ship,  intimating  to  the  others  that  he  should  be  kept 
until  more  of  the  stolen  property  was  returned.  This  they  appear- 
ed perfectly  to  understand,  as  the  prisoner  pointed  to  his  boat  where, 
upon  search  being  made,  the  other  lock  of  the  fowling-piece,  and  a 
haversack  belonging  to  Lieutenant  Belcher,  were  found.  The 
strength  of  this  man  was  so  great  that  it  required  as  many  of  our 
people  as  could  stand  round  to  pinion  his  arms  and  take  him  down 
to  the  boat.  As  soon  as  this  was  effected,  all  the  other  Esquimaux 
fled  to  their  baidars,  and  did  not  approach  the  place  again  ;  the 
chief  excepted,  who  returned  almost  immediately,  and  pitched  one 
tent  for  himself  and  another  for  the  prisoner.  Lieutenant  Belcher 
in  concluding  his  account   of  this  disastrous   affair,  speaks  in  liij:;li 


i 


1827.] 


AND  BKERtNO  S  STUAIT. 


403 


'i> 


terms  oi"  commendation  of  Mr.  (now  Licuionant)  Rcndall,  William 
Aldrige  and  Georg.:  Shields,  seamen  and  of  Thomas  Hazlehurst, 
marine  ;  and  it  is  with  much  pleasure  1  cml)race  the  oj)portunity  of 
giving  publicity  to  their  meritorious  behaviour. 

I  must  exonerate  Lieutenant  Belcher  from  any  blame  that  may 
attach  to  him  as  commander  of  the  vessel ;  for,  though  her  loss  was 
evidently  occasioned  by  her  i)eing  too  close  in  shore,  and  by  too 
few  a  number  of  persons  being  left  on  board,  yet  it  is  to  be  obser- 
ved that  she  was  only  a  boat ;  that  the  cre\vr  were  upon  the  beach 
in  readiness  to  assist  her  ;  and  that,  had  it  been  a  case  of  ordinary 
nature,  they  would  no  doubt  have  succeeded  in  their  object.  In  place 
of  this,  however,  the  wind  changed  suddenly,  and  the  sea  rose  so 
fast  that  there  wa?  no  possibility  of  effecting  what,  under  general 
circumstances,  would  have  been  perfectly  practicable ;  the  water 
besides,  was  two  feet  lower  than  usual.  The  strenuous  exertions 
of  Lieutenant  Belcher  to  save  the  crew,  and  his  resolute  conduct 
toward  the  natives,  after  he  was  thrown  amongst  them  unprovided 
with  arms,  a  brace  of  pistols  excepted,  show  him  to  be  an  officer 
both  of  humanity  and  courage. 

After  the  loss  of  our  favourite  boat,  Parties  were  repeatedly  sent 
to  the  wreck,  in  the  hope  of  being  able  to  raise  her,  or  to  procure 
what  they  could  from  her  cabin  and  holds  :  but  she  was  completely 
wrecked  and  filled  with  sand,  and  a  few  days  afterwards  went  to 
pieces.  Mr.  Belcher  was  a  great  loser  by  this  unfortunate  accident, 
as  he  was  well  provided  with  instruments,  books,  papers,  &lc.,  and 
had  some  expensive  fowling-pieces  and  pistols,  all  of  which  were 
lost  or  spoiled  ;  and  this  was  the  more  provoking,  as  some  of  them 
had  been  purchased  to  supply  the  place  of  those  he  had  the  misfor- 
tune to  lose  when  upset  in  the  cutter  at  Oeno  Island.  I  am  happy 
to  say  the  government,  on  the  representation  of  bis  peculiar  case, 
made  him  a  compensation. 

On  thel2th  the  body  of  one  of  the  seamen,  Thomas  Urcn,  was 
found  near  the  place  where  the  boat  was  wrecked  ;  and  on  the 
Sunday  following  it  was  attended  to  the  grav  -  by  all  the  officers 
and  ship's  company.  The  place  of  interment  was  on  the  low  point 
of  Chamisso  Island,  by  the  side  of  our  shipmate  who  had  been 
buried  there  the  preceding  year. 

On  the  13th  we  were  visited  by  two  baidars,  and  among  their 
crews  discovered  the  party  who  had  visited  the  ship  so  early  in  the 
niornii.g,  when  she  was  at  the  anchorage  in  August,  one  ol  whom 
drew  his  knife  upon  the  first  Lieutenant ;  they  were  also  of  the 
party  which  made  an  attack  upon  our  cutter  in  Eschscholtz  Bay  the 
preceding  year.  They  had  with  them  a  few  skins  and  some  fish 
for  sale,  but  thoy  were  scrupulous  about  what  they  took  for  them  ; 
and  on  being ovlcred  away  late  in  the  evening,  they  twanged  their 


.  1 


;'! 


4, 


* 


T 


464 


VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


{Sept. 


bows  in  an  insolent  manner,  and,  pushed  off  about  a  couple  of  yards 
only.  The  officer  of  the  watch  desired  them  to  go  away,  and  at 
length  presented  a  musket  at  the  baidar,on  which  they  fired  an  ar'-ow 
into  the  sea  in  the  direction  of  the  ship,  and  paddled  to  the  island, 
where  we  observed  them  take  up  their  quarters. 

When  the  boats  landed  the  next  day  to  fill  the  casks,  Mr.  Smyth, 
who  had  charge  of  the  party,  was  desired  to  arm  his  people,  and 
to  order  the  Esquimaux  off  the  island  if  they  were  offensive  to  him, 
or  interfered  with  the  duty.  On  landing,  the  natives  met  him  on  the 
beach,  and  were  very  anxious  to  learn  whether  the  muskets  were 
loaded,  and  to  be  allowed  to  feel  the  edges  of  the  cutlasses,  and 
were  not  at  all  pleased  at  having  their  request  refused.  The  arms 
were  rolled  up  in  the  sail  for  the  purpose  of  being  kept  dry,  but  one  of 
the  natives  insisted  on  having  the  canvas  unrolled,  to  see  what  it 
contained,  and  on  being  refused  he  drew  his  knife,  and  threatened 
the  seamen  who  had  charge  of  it.  Coupling  this  act  with  the  con- 
duct of  the  party  on  the  before-mentioned  occasions,  Mr.  Smyth 
ordered  the  arms  to  be  loaded  ;  on  which  the  natives  fled  to  their 
baidar,  and  placed  every  thing  in  her  in  readiness  to  depart  on  a 
minute's  warning,  and  then,  armed  with  their  bows  and  arrows  and 
knives,  they  drew  up  on  a  small  eminence,  and  twanged  their  bow- 
strings, as  before,  in  defiance.  A  few  minutes  before  this  occurred, 
five  of  the  party,  who  had  separated  from  their  companions,  attack- 
ed two  of  our  seamen,  who  were  at  some  distance  from  Mr.  Smyth, 
digging  a  grave  for  their  unfortunate  shipmate,  and  coming  sudden- 
ly upon  them,  while  in  the  pit,  three  of  the  party  stood  over  the 
workmen  with  their  drawn  knives,  while  the  others  rifled  the  pock- 
ets of  their  jackets,  which  were  lying  at  a  little  distance  from  the 
grave,  and  carried  away  the  contents,  together  with  an  axe.  The 
hostile  disposition  of  the  natives  on  the  hill,  who  were  drawn  up  in 
a  line  in  a  menacing  atitude,  with  their  bows  ready  strung,  and  theii 
knives  in  their  left  hands,  obliged  Mr.  Smyth  to  arm  his  people, 
and,  in  compliance  with  his  instructions,  to  proceed  to  drive  them 
ofFthe  island.  He  accordingly  advanced  upon  them,  and  each  in- 
dividual probably  had  singled  out  his  victim,  when  an  aged 
man  of  the  Esquimaux  party  mad  3  offers  of  peace,  and  the  arms  of 
both  parties  were  laid  aside.  The  mediator  signified  that  he  wanted 
a  tub,  that  had  been  left  at  the  well,  which  was  restored  to  him,  and 
the  axe  that  had  been  taken  from  the  grave  was  returned  to  our 
party.  The  Esquimaux  then  embarked,  and  paddled  towards  Es- 
chscholtz  Bay.  1  have  been  thus  particular  in  describing  the  con- 
duct of  these  people,  in  consequence  of  a  more  tragical  affair  which 
occurred  a  few  days  afterwards. 

Strong  winds  prevented  the  completion  of  our  water  for  several 
days ;  but  on  the  29th  it  was  in  progress,  when  the  same  party  land- 


■'m- 


B9BP 


•y^ 


ivil 


\Sept. 

>uple  of  yards 
away,  and  at 
Sred  an  ar^ow 
to  the  island, 

s,  Mr.  Smyth, 
I  people,  and 
insive  to  him, 
let  him  on  the 
muskets  were 
cutlasses,  and 
d.     The  arms 
dry,  but  one  of 
3  see  what  it 
and  threatened 
t  with  the  con- 
is,  Mr.  Smyth 
es  fled  to  their 
to  depart  on  a 
and  arrows  and 
iged  their  bow- 
re  this  occurred, 
ipanions,  attack- 
om  Mr.  Smyth, 
coming  sudden- 
stood  over  the 
rifled  the  pock- 
tance  from  the 
1  an  axe.     The 
ere  drawn  up  in 
Istrung,  and  theii 
arm  his  people, 
Id  to  drive  them 
and  each  in- 
when    an  aged 
and  the  arms  of 
;hat  he   wanted 
,red  to  him,  and 
•eturned  to  our 
lied  towards  Es- 
;ribing  the  con- 
;ical  affair  which 

Iter  for  several 
fame  party  land- 


1827.] 


AND    BFERINC  S    STRAIT, 


465 


ed  upon  the  island  near  our  boat.     The  day  being  very  fine,  seve- 
ral of  the  officers  had  gone  in  pursuit  of  ptainiigan,  which  were  about 
this  time  collecting  in  large  flocks  previous  to  their  migration  ;  and 
I  was  completing  a  series  of  magnetical  observations  in  another  part 
of  the    island.     The  first  lieutenant  observing  a  baidar  full  of  men 
approach  the  island,  despatched   Lieutenant  Belcher  to  the   place 
with  orders  to  send  them  away,  provided  there  were  any  of  the 
party  among  them  who  had  behaved  in  so  disorderly  a  manner  on 
the  recent  occasion.     On  landing,  he  immediately  recognized  one  of 
the  men,  and  ordered  the  whole  party  into  the  baidan     They  com- 
plied very  reluctantly  ;  and  while  our  seamen  were  engaged  push- 
ing them  off,  they  were  occupied  in  preparations  for  hostility,  by 
putting  on  their  eider-duck  frocks  over  their  usual  dresses,  and   un- 
covering their  bows  and  arrows.     They  paddled  a  few  yards   from 
the   beach,   and  then   rested  in  doubt  as  to  what  they  should  do  j 
some  menacing  our  party,  and  others  displaying  their  weapons. 
Thus  threatened,  and  the  party  making  no  attempt  to  depart,  but 
rather  propelling  their  baidar  sidewise  toward  the  land,  Mr.  Belch- 
er fired  a  ball  between  them  and  the  shore,  and  waved  them  to  be- 
gone.    Instead  of  obeying  his  summons,  they  paddled  on  shore  in- 
stantly, and  quitted  their  baidar  for  a  small  eminence  near  the  beach, 
from  whence   they  discharged   a  flight  of  arrows,  which  wounded 
two  of  our  seamen.     Their  attack  was  of  course  returned  and  one, 
of  the  party  was  wounded  in  the  leg  by  a  musket  ball. 

Until  this  time  they  were  ignorant  of  the  effect  of  P"?-armSjand  nO 
doubt  placed  much  confidence  in  the    thickness  of  their  clothing, 
as,  in  addition  to  their  eider-duck  dress  over  their  usual  frock,  they 
each  bound  a  deer-skin  round    them  as  they  quitted  their  baidar ; 
but  seeing  the  furs  availed  nothing  against  a  ball,  they   fled  with 
precipitation  to  the  hills  ;  and  the  commanding  officer  of  the  Blossom 
observing  them  rimning  towards  the  place  where  1  was  engaged 
with  the  dipping  needle,  fired  a  gun  from  the  ship,  which  first  ap- 
prised me  of  anything  being  amiss.     On  the  arrival  of  the  cutter, 
1  joined  Mr.  Belcher,  and  with  a   view  of  getting  the  natives  into 
our  possession,  I  sent  a  boat  along  the  beach,  and  went  with  a  party 
over  land.     We  had  not  proceeded  far,  when  suddenly  four  of  the 
marines  were  wounded  with  arrows  from  a  small  ravine,  in  which  we 
found  a  party  so  screeuec.  by  long  grass  that  it  was  not  visible  until 
we  were  close  upon  it.     The  natives  were  lying  upon  the  ground, 
peeping  between  the  blades  of  grass,  and  discharging  their  arrows  as 
opportunity  offered.     In  return,  one  of  them  suffered  by  a  ball  from 
Mr.  Elson  ,  on  which  I  stopped  the  firing,  and  endeavoured  ineffec- 
tually to  bring  them  to  terms.     After  a  considerable  time,  an  elderly 
man  came  forward  with  his  arms  and  breasf  rovered  with   mud, 
motioned  us  to  begone,   and  decidedly  rejected  all  offers  of  recon- 

59 


i; 


u 

I 


•t 


-115 


i- 


^  1 1 


t 


°!mm 


mmmmm 


i£ 


466 


VOYAGK    TO  THE    PACIFIC 


\Scpt- 


Ir      ! 


ciliation.  Unwilling  to  chastise  them  further,  I  withdrew  the  party, 
and  towed  their  baidar  on  board,  which  kept  them  prisoners  upon 
the  island.  I  did  this  in  order  to  have  an  opportunity  of  bringing 
about  a  reconciliation,  for  I  was  unwilling  to  allow  them  to  depart 
with  sentiments  which  might  piove  injurious  to  any  Europeans  who 
might  succeed  us;  and  I  thought  that  by  detaining  them  we  should 
be  able  to  convince  them  our  resentment  was  unjustiriably  provok- 
ed, and  that  when  theyconducted  themselves  properly,  they  should 
command  our  friendship.  This  baidar  had  a  large  incision  in  her 
bottom,  made  by  the  person  who  last  quitted  her  when  the  party 
landed,  and  must  have  been  done  either  with  a  view  of  preventing 
her  being  carried  away,  or  by  depriving  themselves  of  the  means  of 
escape,  showing  their  resolution  to  conquer  or  die.  We  repaired 
her  as  well  as  we  could,  and  kept  her  in  readiness  to  be  restored  to 
her  owners  on  the  first  favourable  opportunity  that  offered. 

The  next  morning  a  boat  was  sent  to  bring  them  to  friendly 
terms,  and  to  return  every  thing  that  was  in  the  baidar,  except  some 
fish  which  they  had  brought  for  sale,  in  lieu  of  which  some  blue 
beads  and  tobacco  were  left,  but  the  natives  were  averse  to  recon- 
ciliation, and  kept  themselves  concealed.  The  night  was  severely 
cold,  with  snow  showers ;  and  next  day,  seeing  nothing  of  the  par- 
ty, the  baidar  was  returned.  The  natives  removed  her  during  the 
night  to  the  opposite  side  of  the  island,  where  she  appeared  to  be 
undergoing  an  additional  repair;  but  we  saw  none  of  the  people, 
who  must  have  secreted  themselves  on  the  approach  of  the  boat. 
We  took  every  opportunity  of  showing  them  we  wished  to  obtain 
their  friendship,  but  to  no  purpose ;  they  would  not  make  their  ap- 
pearance, and  the  next  night  df  camped,  leaving  a  few  old  skin?  in 
return  for  the  articles  we  had  left  them. — On  examining  the  rr.vine 
in  which  they  had  concealed  themselves,  we  found  one  man  lying 
dead,  with  his  bow  and  quiver,  containing  five  arrows,  placed  under 
his  body,  and  clothed  in  the  same  manner  as  when  he  quitted  the 
baidar.  The  ravine  was  conveniently  adapted  to  the  defence  of  a 
party,  being  narrow,  with  small  banks  on  each  side  of  it,  behind 
which  a  party  might  discharge  their  arrows  without  much  danger  to 
themselves  until  they  became  closely  beset ;  to  obviate  which  as 
much  as  possible,  and  to  sell  their  lives  as  dearly  as  they  could,  we 
found  they  had  constructed  pits  in  ♦he  earth  by  scooping  out  holes 
sufficiently  large  to  contain  a  man,  and  by  banking  up  the  mud 
above  them.  There  were  five  of  these  excavations  close  under 
the  edges  of  th?  banks,  which  were  undermined ;  one  at  the  head 
of  the  ravine,  and  two  on  each  side,  about  three  yards  lower  down 
the  latter  had  a  small  communication  at  the  bottotri,  through  which 
an  arrow  might  be  transferred  from  one  person  to  another,  without 
Incurring  the  risk  of  being  seen  by  passing   it  over  the  top.     The 


:i# 


mmmm 


SSP> 


1827.] 


AND    BKERINg's    STUATT. 


467 


construction  of  those  pits  must  have  occupied  the  man  who  presen- 
ted himself  to  us  with  his  arms  covered  with  mud  ;  as  a  defence 
they  were  as  perfect  as  circumstances  would  allow,  and  while  they 
show  the  resources  of  the  people,  they  mark  a  determinaton  of  ob- 
stinate resistance. 

The  effect  of  the  arrows  was  fully  as  great  as  might  have  been 
expected,  and  had  they  been  properly  directed,  would  have  inflic- 
ted mortal  wounds.  At  the  distance  of  a  hundred  yards  a  flesh 
wound  was  produced  in  the  thigh,  which  disabled  the  man  for  a 
time  ;  and  at  eight  or  ten  yards  another  fixed  the  right  arm  of  a  ma- 
rine to  his  side :  a  third  buried  itself  two  inches  an  a  half  under  the 
scalp.  The  wounds  which  they  occasioned  were  obliged  to  be  ei- 
ther enlarged,  to  extract  the  arrows,  which  were  barbed,  or  to  have 
an  additional  incision  made,  that  the  arrow  might  be  pushed  through 
without  further  laceration.  Most  of  these  wounds  were  inflicted  by 
an  arrow  with  a  bone  head,  tipped  with  a  pointed  piece  of  jaspar 

We  were  sorry  to  find  our  musketry  had  inflicted  so  severe  a 
chastisement  upon  these  people  but  it  was  unavoidable  and  richly 
deserved.  It  was  some  consolation  to  reflect  that  it  had  fallen  upon 
a  party  from  whom  we  had  received  repeated  insult,  and  it  was  not 
until  after  they  had  threatened  our  boat  in  Eschscholtz  Bay,  insulted 
us  along  side  of  the  ship,  defied  our  party  on  shore,  had  twice  drawn 
their  knives  upon  our  people,  and  had  wounded  several  of  them, 
that  they  were  made  acquainted  with  the  nature  of  our  fire  arms  ; 
and  lam  convinced  the  example  will  have  a  good  eflect  by  teach- 
ing them  that  it  was  forbearance  alone  that  induced  us  to  tolerate 
their  conduct  so  long. 

For  the  purpose  of  keeping  together  the  particulars  of  our  trans- 
actions with  tlie  Esquimaux,  I  have  omitted  to  mention  several  oc- 
currences in  the  order  in  which  they  transpired.  Many  circum- 
stances indicated  the  earlier  approach  of  winter  than  we  had  expe- 
rienced the  preceding  year.  About  the  middle  of  September,  there- 
fore, we  began  to  prepare  the  ship  for  her  departure,  by  completing 
the  water,  taking  on  board  stone  ballast,  in  lieu  of  the  provisions 
that  had  been  expended,  and  refitting  the  rigging.  These  operations 
were  for  several  days  interrupted  by  strong  westerly  winds,  which 
occasioned  much  sea  "it  the  anchorage,  and  very  unaccountably  had 
the  effect  of  producing  remarkably  low  tides,  and  of  checking  the 
rise  which  on  several  occasions  was  scarcely  perceptible. 

On  the  18lh  a  party  of  the  ofllcers  landed  in  Eschscholtz  Bay  to 
s  .  h  for  fossils,  but  they  were  unsuccessful ;  in  consecjuence  of  an 
irregularity  in  the  tide,  which  was  on  that  occasion  unaccountably 
high,  and  scarcely  fell  during  the  day.  The  clifis  had  broken  away 
considerably  since  the  preceding  year ;  and  the  frozen  surface  of  the 
cliff  appeared  in  smaller  quantities  than  bnfore,  but    the  earth  was 


; 


^• 


\ 
il 

'6' 


i 


■1 


\ 


mmm 


468 


VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[Oct. 


found  congealed  at  a  less  depth  from  the  top.  Tiiis  examination 
tended  to  confirm  more  steadlhstly  the  opinion  that  the  ice  forms 
only  a  coating  to  the  cliff,  and  is  occasioned  by  small  streams  of  wa- 
ter oozing  out,  which  either  become  congealed  themselves  in  their 
descent,  or  convert  into  ice  the  snow  which  rests  in  the  hollows. 

On  the  24th  and  28th  the  nights  were  clear  and  frosty,  and  the 
aurora  borealis  was  seen,  forming  several  arches.  On  the  28th  the 
display  was  very  brilliant  and  interesting,  as  it  had  every  appearance 
of  being  between  the  clouds  and  the  earth  ;  and,  after  one  of  these 
displays,  several  meteors  were  observed  issuing  from  parts  of  the 
arch,  and  falling  obliquely  toward  the  earth.  This  was  also  one  of 
the  rare  instances  of  the  aurora  being  seen  to  the  southward  of  our 
zenith. 

In  the  beginning  of  October  we  had  sharp  frosts  and  heavy  falls 
of  snow.  On  the  4th  the  earth  was  deeply  covered  and  the  lakes 
were  frozen  :  the  thermometer  during  the  night  fell  to  25°,  and  at 
noon  on  the  5th  to  24°,  and  there  was  every  appearance  of  the  win- 
ter having  commenced.  It  therefore  became  my  duty  seriously  to 
consider  on  the  propriety  of  continuing  longer  in  those  seas.  We 
had  received  no  intelligence  of  Captain  Franklin's  party,  nor  was  it 
very  probable  that  it  could  now  appear ;  and  we  could  only  hope, 
as  the  time  had  arrived  when  it  would  be  imperative  on  us  to  with- 
draw from  bim  the  only  relief  he  could  experience  in  these  seas, 
that  he  had  met  with  insurmountable  obstacles  to  his  proceeding, 
and  bod  retraced  his  route  up  the  M'Kenzie  River. 

Anxious,  however,  to  remain  to  the  last,  on  the  chance  of  being 
useful  to  him,  I  again  solicited  the  opinions  of  the  officers  as  to  the 
state  of  the  season,  and  finding  them  unanimous  in  believing  the 
winter  to  have  commenced,  and  that  the  ship  could  not  remain 
longer  in  Kotzebue  Sound  with  safety,  I  determined  to  quit  the  an- 
chorage the  moment  the  wind  would  permit.  Weighing  the  proba- 
bility of  Captain  Franklin's  arrival  at  this  late  period  in  the  season, 
no  one  on  board,  I  believe,  thought  there  was  the  smallest  chance 
of  it;  for,  had  his  prospects  the  pereceding  year  been  such  as  to 
justify  his  wintering  upon  the  coast,  the  distance  remaining  to  be  ac- 
complished in  the  present  season  would  have  been  so  short  that  he 
could  scarcely  fail  to  have  performed  it  early  in  the  sunnner  in  which 
case  we  must  have  seen  him  long  before  this  date,  unless,  indeed,  he 
had  reached  Icy  Cape  and  found  it  advisable  to  return  by  his  own 
route,  a  contingency  authorised  by  his  instructions.  Upon  the 
chance  of  his  arrival  after  the  departure  of  the  ship,  the  provision 
that  had  been  buried  for  his  use,  was  allowed  to  remain,  and  the 
billet  of  wood  was  aga'n  deposited  on  the  island,  containing  a  state- 
ment of  the  behavior  of  the  natives  and  of  other  particulars,  with 
which  it  was  important  that  he  should  be  made  acquainted. 


MM 


V 


'M  fl 


18-27.] 


AND    BEGRING  S    STRAIT. 


469 


i  examination 
the   ice  forms 
ilreams  of  \va- 
selves  in  their 
lie  hollows. 
Vosty,  and  the 
,1  the  28th  the 
;rv  appearance 
;r  one  of  these 
im  parts  of  the 
,vas  also  one  of 
uthward  of  our 

ind  heavy  fiiUs 
1   and  the  lakes 
to  '25°,  and  at 
nee  of  the  win- 
jty  seriously  to 
lose  seas.     We 
irty,  nor  was  it 
•uld  only  hope, 
B  on  us  to  with- 
e  in  these  seas, 
his  proceeding, 

chance  of  being 
)fficers  as  to  the 
in  believing  tlic 
ould  not  remain 
to  quit  the  an- 
ling  the  proba- 
d  in  the  season, 
smallest  chance 
"lieen  such  as  to 
laining  to  be  ac- 
io  short  that  he 
linimer  in  which 
dess,  indeed,  he 
,urn  by  his  own 
ins.     Upon  the 
p,  the  provision 
[remain,  and  the 
itaining  a  state- 
articulars,  with 
laintcd. 


On  tiie  6th,  sharp  frosty  weather  continuing,  we  weighed  from 
Chamisso,  and  beat  out  of  tlie  sound.  In  pasingCape  Krusenstern 
we  perceived  a  blink  in  the  N.W.  direction,  siijiilar  to  that  over  ice 
and  it  is  not  unlikely  that  the  westerly  winds  which  were  so  prevalent 
all  the  summer  had  drifted  it  from  the  Asiatic  shore,  where  it  rests 
against  the  land  in  a  much  lower  parallel  than  upon  the  American 
coast. 

As  we  receded  from  the  sound  the  wind  freshened  from  the  N.W. 
with  every  appearance  of  a  gale  ;  we  kept  at  a  reasonable  distance 
from  the  land  until  day-light  and  then  steered  towards  Cape  Prince 
of  Wales,  with  a  view  of  passing  Beering's  Strait.  Our  depth  of 
water  thus  far  had  been  about  fifteen  fathoms,  but  at  eleven  o'clock 
in  the  forenoon  it  began  to  diminish  and  the  sea  being  high,  the  course 
was  altered,  to  increase  our  distance  from  the  coast :  we  had  scarce- 
ly done  this  when  the  water  shoaled  still  more  and  a  long  line  of 
breakers  was  observed  stretching  from  the  land,  crossing  our  course 
and  extending  several  miles  to  windward.  The  weather  was  so  ha- 
zy that  we  could  scarcely  see  the  land  ;  but  it  was  evident  that  we- 
had  run  down  between  the  coast  and  a  shoal,  and  as  there  was  no 
prospect  of  being  able  to  weather  the  land  on  the  opposite  tack,  the 
only  alternative  was  to  force  the  ship  through  the  breakers,  we  ac- 
cordingly steered  for  those  parts  where  the  sea  broke  the  least  and 
kept  the  ship  going  at  the  rate  of  seven  knots,  in  order  as  the  shoal 
appeared  to  be  very  narrow  that  she  might  not  hang,  in  the  event 
of  touching  the  ground. 

The  sea  ran  very  high,  and  we  entered  the  broken  water  in  breath- 
less suspense,  as  there  was  very  little  prosppct  of  saving  the  ship,  in 
the  event  of  her  becoming  fixed  upon  the  shoal.  Four  fathoms  and 
a  half  was  communicated  from  the  channels,  a  depth  in  which  it 
may  be  reccollected  we  disturbed  the  bottom  in  crossing  the  bar  of 
San  Francisco ;  the  same  depth  was  again  reported  and  we  pursued 
our  course  momentarily  expecting  to  strike.  Fortunately  this  wa& 
the  least  deptli  of  water,  and  before  long  our  soundings  increased  to 
twenty  fathoms,  when,  having  escaped  the  danger,  we  resumed  oux 
course  for  the  strait. 

This  shoal,  which  appears  to  extend  from  Cape  Prince  of  Wales, 
taking  the  direction  of  the  current  through  the  strait,  is  extremly 
dangerous,  in  consequence  of  the  water  shoaling  so  suddenly,  and 
having  deep  water  within  it,  by  which  a  ship  coming  from  the  norths 
ward  may  be  led  down  between  the  shoal  and  the  land,  without  any 
suspicion  of  her  danger.  Though  we  had  nothing  less  than  twenty- 
seven  feet  water,  as  near  as  the  soundings  could  be  ascertained  in  so 
high  a  sea,  yet,  from  the  appearance  of  the  breakers  outside  the 
place  where  the  ship  crossed,  the  depth  is  probably  less.  It  is  re- 
markable that  this  spit  of  sand,  extending  so  far  as  it  does  from  the 


V 


>\y 


.1 

A. 

»•  - 


1 


470 


VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[OcL 


land,  sliould  have  liitlierlo  escaped  the  observation  of  the  Russian-; 
as  well  as  of  our  countrymen.  Cook,  in  his  chart,  marks  five  fath- 
oms close  off  the  cape,  and  Kotzebue  three,  but  this  spit  appeared 
to  extend  six  or  seven  miles  from  it.  It  is  true  that  the  weallior 
was  very  hazy,  and  we  might  have  been  deceived  in  our  distance 
from  the  shore :  but  it  is  also  probable  that  the  spit  may  be  extend- 
ing itself  rapidly. 

We  passed  Beering's  Strait  about  one  o'clock,  as  usual  with  a 
close  reefed  topsail  breeze,  and  afterwards  ran  with  a  fresh  gale 
until  midnight,  when,  as  I  wished  to  sec  the  eastern  end  of  St  Law- 
rence Island,  we  rounded  to  for  daylight.  It  was,  however,  of  lit- 
tle consequence,  as  the  weather  was  so  foggy  the  next  day  that  we 
could  not  see  far  around  us.  As  we  approached  the  island,  flocks 
of  alca  crestatella  and  of  the  eider  and  king  ducks,  and  several  spe- 
cies of  phalaropes,  flew  about  us,  but  no  land  was  distinguished. 
About  noon,  the  water  shoaling  gradually  to  eleven  fathoms,  creat- 
ed a  doubt  whether  we  were  not  running  upon  the  island ;  but,  on 
altering  the  course  to  the  eastward,  it  deepened  again,  and  by  tlie 
observations  of  the  next  day  it  appeared  that  the  ship  had  passed 
over  a  shoal  lying  between  St.  Lawrence  Island  and  the  main.  It 
is  a  curious  fact,  that  this  shoal  is  precisely  in  the  situation  assigned 
to  a  small  island  which  Captain  Cook  named  after  his  surgeon,  Mr. 
Anderson  ;  and  as  that  island  has  never  been  seen  since,  many  per- 
sons, relying  upon  the  genernl  accuracy  of  that  great  navigator, 
might  suppose  the  island  to  have  been  sunk  by  some  such  convul- 
sion as  raised  the  island  of  Amnuk  in  the  same  sea  ;  while  others 
might  take  occasion  from  this  fact  to  impeach  the  judgment  of  Cook. 
I  am  happy  to  have  an  opportunity  of  reconciling  opinions  '^n  this 
subject,  having  discovered  a  note  by  Captain  Bligh,  who  wus  the 
master  with  Captain  Cook,  written  in  pencil  on  the  margin  of  the 
Admiralty  copy  of  Cook's  third  voyage,  by  which  it  is  evident  that 
the  compilers  of  the  chart  have  overlooked  certain  data  collected  off 
the  eastern  end  of  St.  Lawrence  Island,  on  the  return  of  the  expe- 
dition from  Norton  Sound,  and,  that  the  land,  named  Anderson's 
Island,  was  the  eastern  end  of  the  island  St.  Lawrence  ;  and  had 
Cook's  life  been  spared  he  would  no  doubt  have  made  the  necessa- 
ry correction  in  his  chart. 

Thick  weather  continued  until  the  10th,  when,  after  some  hard 
showers  of  snow,  it  dispersed,  and  afforded  us  an  opportunity  of 
determining  the  position  of  the  ship,  by  observation,  which  agreed 
very  nearly  with  the  reckoning,  and  showed  there  had  been  no  cur- 
rent of  consequence.  Two  days  afterwards  we  saw  the  island  of 
St.  Paul,  and  endeavoured  to  close  it,  in  order  to  examine  its  oudine. 
and  compare  our  observations  with  those  of  the  preceding  year; 
but  the  wind  obliged  us  to  pass  at  the  distance  of  eight  miles  to  the 


1-  .     1 1 


1827] 


•:D    BF.EniNfi  S    STHAIT. 


471 


M7 


\.i 


eastward,  and  uc  could  c  ^  nccomplisli  the  latter.  The  next 
morning  we  passed  to  the  eastward  of  St.  George's  Island,  and  fix- 
ed its  position  also.  This  was  tiic  island  we  were  anxious  to  see 
the  preceding  year,  as  its  situation  upon  our  chart  was  very  uncer- 
tain, and  in  soine  of  the  most  approved  charts  it  is  omitted  alto- 
gether. 

OfFhero  we  observed  a  number  of  shags,  a  few  albatrosses,  flocks 
of  ortolans,  and  a  sea  otter. 

At  daylight  on  the  14th,  we  saw  the  Aleutian  Islands,  and  steer- 
ed for  an  opening  which  by  oi'.r  reckoning  should  have  been  the 
same  strait  through  which  we  passed  on  a  former  occasion  ;  but, 
the  islands  being  covered  more  than  halfway  down  with  a  dense  fog, 
we  were  unable  to  ascertain  our  position  correctly  ;  and  it  was  not 
until  the  latitude  was  determined  by  observation  that  we  discovered 
we  were  steering  for  the  wrong  passage.  This  mistake  was  oc- 
casioned by  current  S.  34°  W.  true,  at  the  rate  of  nearly  three 
miles  an  hour,  which  in  the  last  twelve  hours  had  drifted  the  ship 
thirty-five  miles  to  the  westward  of  her  expected  position.  For- 
tunately the  wind  vvas  fair,  and  enabled  us  to  correct  our  error  by 
carrying  a  press  of  sail.  Before  sunset  we  got  sight  of  the  Needle 
Rock  in  the  channel  of  Oonemak,  and  passed  through  the  strait. 
The  strength  and  uncertainty  of  the  currents  about  these  islands 
should  make  navigators  very  cautious  how  they  approach  them  in 
thick  weather  :  whenever  there  is  any  doubt,  the  most  certain  course 
is  to  steer  due  east,  and  make  the  Island  of  Oonemak,  which  may 
be  known  by  its  latitude,  being  thirty  miles  more  northerly  than  any 
other  part  of  the  chain  ;  and  then  to  kept  along  its  shores  at  the 
distance  of  four  or  five  miles,  until  the  Needle  Rock,  whicii  lies 
nearly  opposite  the  Island  of  Coogalga,  is  passed  ;  after  which  the 
coast  on  both  sides  trends  nearly  east  and  west,  and  a  ship  has  an 
open  sea  before  her. 

The  Aleutian  Islands,  when  we  passed,  were  covered  about  two- 
thirds  of  the  way  down  with  snow,  and  indicated  an  earlier  winter 
than  they  had  done  the  preceding  year. 


Having  taken  our  final  leave  of  Beering's  Strait,  all  hope  of  the 
attainment  of  the  principal  object  of  the  expedition  in  the  Polar  sea 
was  at  an  end  ;  and  the  fate  of  the  expedition  under  Captain  Frank- 
lin, which  was  then  unknown  tous,  was  a  subject  of  intense  interest. 
Amidst  the  disappointment  this  failure  in  meeting  with  him  had 
occasioned  us,  we  had  the  consolation  of  knowing  that,  whatever 
vicissitudes  might  have  befallen  his  party,  our  eftbrts  to  maintain 
oiu"  station  in  both  years  had,  by  the  blessing  of  Providence,  been 
successful,  so  that  at  no  period  of  the  appointed  time  of  rendezvous 


t 


i 


I 

I 

i 


1 1 

-■'f 

1i^. 


•if 


47Q 


VOYAGE  TO    THE    PACIFIC 


\Oci. 


M 


could  lie  have  missed  both  the  boat  and  the  ship,  or  have  arrived 
at  the  appointed  place  in  Kotzebue  Sound  without  6nding  tlic 
anticipated  relief. 

The  enterprising  voyage  of  Captain  Franklin  down  the  Macken- 
zie, and  along  the  northern  shores  of  the  continent  of  America,  is 
now  familiar  to  us  all ;  and,  considering  that  the  distance  between 
the  extremities  of  our  discoveries  was  less  than  fifty  leagues,  and 
that,  giving  him  ten  days  to  perform  it  in,  he  would  have  arrived  at 
Point  Barrow  at  the  precise  period  with  our  boat,  we  must  ever  re- 
gret that  he  could  not  have  been  made  acquainted  with  our  advan- 
ced situation,  as  in  that  case  he  would  have  been  justified  in  incur- 
ring a  risk  which  would  have  been  unwarrantable  under  any  other 
circumstances.  Let  me  not  for  a  moment  be  supposed  by  this  to 
detract  one  leaf  from  the  laurels  that  have  been  gained  by  Captain 
Franklin  and  his  enterprising  associates,  who,  through  obstacles 
which  would  have  been  insurmountable  by  persons  of  less  da- 
ring and  persevering  minds,  have  brought  us  acquainted  with  an 
extent  of  country  which,  added  to  the  discovery  it  was  our  good 
fortune  to  push  so  far  along  the  shore  to  the  westward  of  them, 
has  left  a  very  small  portion  of  the  coast  unknown. 

The  extent  of  land  thus  left  unexplored  between  Point  Turna- 
gain  and  Icy  Cape,  is  comparatively  so  insignificant  that,  as  regards 
the  question  of  the  north-west  passage,  it  may  be  considered  to  be 
known  ;  and  in  this  point  of  view  both  expeditions,  though  they 
did  not  meet,  may  be  said  to  have  been  fully  successful.  From 
the  nature  and  similarity  of  the  coast  at  Return  Reef  and  Point 
Barrow,  it  is  very  probable  that  the  land  from  Franklin  Extreme 
trends  gradually  to  the  eastward  to  Return  Reef,  leaving  Point 
Barrow  in  latitude  71°23'  30"  N.  the  northern  limit  of  the  continent 
of  America. 

The  determination  of  this  great  geographical  question  is  undoubt- 
edly important ;  but  though  it  sets  a  boundary  to  the  new  continent, 
and  so  far  diminishes  the  difficulties  attending  an  attempt  to  effect  a 
passage  from  the  Pacific  to  the  Atlantic,  yet  it  leaves  the  practica- 
bility of  the  North-west  Passage  nearly  as  doubtful  as  ever  ;  and  it 
it  is  evident  that  it  cannot  be  otherwise,  until  the  obstructions  set 
forth  in  Captain  Parry's  voyage  are  removed,  as  it  would  avail  little 
to  be  able  to  reach  Hecla  and  Fury  Strait,  provided  that  channel 
were  always  impassable. 

From  what  has  been  set  forth,  in  the  foregoing  narrative  of  our 
proceedings,  it  is  nearly  certain  that,  by  watching  the  opportunity, 
a  vessel  may  reach  Point  Barrow,  and  in  all  probability  proceed 
beyond  it.  Had  we  been  permitted  to  make  this  attempt,  we  should 
no  doubt  be  able  to  speak  more  positively  upon  the  subject ;  and, 
as  I  have  always  been  of  opinion  that  a  navigation  may  be  perform- 


mm 


4 


1827.] 


AND    BF.EniNn  S    STHAIT. 


473 


,^» 


cd  along  any  coast  of  the  Polar  Sea  tliat  is  continiiousy*!  can  see  no  in- 
surmountable obstacle  to  the  exploit.  In  this  attempt,  liowever,  it 
is  evident  that  a  vessel  must  be  prepared  to  encounter  very  heavy 
pressure  from  the  ice,  and  must  expect,  on  the  ice  closing  the  coast 
to  the  westward  of  Point  Harrow,  which  it  unquestionably  would 
•  *th  every  strong  westerly  wind,  to  be  driven  on  shore  in  the  man- 
ner in  which  our  boat  was  in  1826. 

As  regards  the  question  whether  it  be  advisable  to  attempt  the 
passage  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific,  the  advantage  of  being 
able  to  pursue  the  main  land  with  certainty  from  Icy  Cape  is  un- 
questionably great ;  and  the  recollection  that  in  that  route  every 
foot  gained  to  the  eastward  is  an  advance  towards  the  point  whence 
supplies  and  succour  may  be  obtained,  is  a  cheering  prospect  to  those 
who  are  engaged  in  such  an  expedition.  But  while  I  so  far  advo- 
cate an  attempt  from  this  quarter,  it  must  not  be  overlooked  that 
the  length  of  the  voyage  round  Cape  Horn,  and  the  vicisitudes  of 
climate  to  be  endured,  present  material  objections  to  prosecuting 
the  enterprise  by  that  course. 

It  does  not  appear  that  any  preference  can  be  given  to  the  west- 
ern route  from  prevailing  winds  or  currents,  as  both  are  so  variable 
and  uncertain,  that  no  dependence  can  be  placed  upon  them.  In 
1826  easterly  winds  prevailed  almost  throughout  the  summer,  both 
on  the  northern  coast  of  America,  and  in  the  open  sea  to  the  west- 
ward of  Icy  cape  :  while  in  1827,inthelattersituationatleast,  there- 
verse  took  place.  And  as  the  coincidence  ofwinds  experienced  by 
Captain  Franklin  and  ourselves  in  1826  is  very  remarkable,  there  is 
every  probability  that  the  same  winds  prevailed  to  the  eastward  of 
Point  Barrow. 

The  current,  though  it  unquestionably  sets  to  the  northward 
through  Beering's  Strait,  in  the  summer  at  least,  does  not  appear  to 
influence  the  sea  on  the  northern  coast  of  America  which  is  naviga- 
ble ;  as  Captain  Franklin,  after  the  experience  of  a  whole  season, 
was  unable  to  detect  any  current  in  either  direction.  In  the  sea  to 
the  westward  of  Icy  Cape,  the  current  setting  through  Beering's 
Strait  is  turned  off  by  Point  Hope,  and  does  not  appear  to  have  p"" 
perceptible  influence  on  the  water  to  the  north-eastward  of  icy 
Cape  ;  for  the  current  there,  though  it  ran  strong  at  times,  seemed 
to  be  influenced  entirely  by  the  prevailing  wind.  The  body  cf 
water  which  finds  its  way  into  the  Polar  Sea  must  undoubtedly  have 
an  outlet,  and  one  of  these  appears  to  be  the  Strait  of  Hecla  and 
Fury :  but  as  this  current  is  not  felt  between  the  ice  and  the  con- 
tinent of  America,  the  only  part  of  the  sea  that  is  navigable,  it 
must  rather  impede  than  favour,  the  enterprise,  by  blocking  the  ice 
against  both  the  strait,  and  the  western  coast  of  Melville  Peninsula. 
Upon  the  whole,  however,  I  am  disposed  to  favour  the  western 

60 


I 


IKI 


1 

I 


\w 


f 


474 


VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFrC 


[Oft. 


route,  and  am  of  opinion  that  could  stoam  vessels  proper'y  fiittd, 
and  adapted  to  the  service,  arrive  in  Rood  condition  in  Kotzobuo 
Sound,  by  the  beginning  of  one  suuuncr  tlioy  might  with  care  and 
patience  succeed  in  reaching  the  western  shore  of  Melville  Penin- 
sula in  the  next.  There,  however,  they  would  undoubtedly  i)o 
stopped,  and  have  to  encounter  difliculties  which  had  repulsed  three 
of  the  most  persevering  attempts  ever  made  toward  the  accomplish- 
ment of  a  similar  object. 

I  sbnlJ.  FrOVi'  -offer  a  few  remarks  upon  the  inhabitants  whom  wc 
met  upon  this  coast. 

The  western  Esquimaux  appear  to  bo  intimately  connected  with 
the  tribes  inhabiting  the  northern  and  north-eastern  shores  of  Amer- 
ica, in  language,  features,  manners,  and  customs.  They  at  the 
same  time,  in  many  respects,  resemble  the  Tschutschi,  from  whom 
they  are  probably  descended.  These  affinities  I  shall  notice  as  I 
proceed  with  my  remarks  upon  the  people  inhabiting  the  north- 
west coast  of  America,  whom  for  the  convenience  of  the  reader,  I 
shall  call  the  western  Esquimaux,  in  order  to  distinguish  them  from 
the  tribes  inhabiting  Hudson's  Bay,  Greenland,  Igloolik,  and  indeed 
from  all  the  places  eastward  of  Point  Barrow.  This  line  ought 
properly  lO  be  drawn  at  M'Kenzie  River,  inconsequence  of  certain 
peculiarities  connecting  the  people  seen  near  that  spot  with  the  tribe 
to  the  westward  :  but  it  will  be  more  convenient  to  confine  it  within 
the  above-mentioned  limits. 

These  people  inhabit  the  north-west  coast  of  America,  from  60o 
34'  N.  to  71°  24'  N.,  and  are  a  nation  of  fishermen  dwelling  upon 
or  near  the  sea  shore,  from  which  they  derive  almost  exclusively 
their  subsistence. 

They  construct  yourts  or  winter  residences  upon  those  parts  of 
the  shore  which  are  adapted  to  their  convenience,  such  as  the 
mouths  of  rivers,  the  entrances  of  inlets,  or  jutting  points  of  land, 
but  always  upon  low  ground.  They  form  themselves  into  commu- 
nities, which  seldom  exceed  a  hundred  persons ;  though  in  some 
few  instances  they  have  amounted  to  upwards  of  two  hundred.  Be- 
tween the  above  mentioned  limits  we  noticed  nineteen  of  these  vil- 
lages, some  of  which  were  very  small,  and  consisted  only  of  a  few 
huts,  and  others  appeared  to  have  been  deserted  a  long  time ; 
but  allowing  them  all  to  be  inhabited  in  the  winter,  the  whole  pop- 
ulation, I  should  think,  including  Kovv-ee-rock,  would  not  amount 
to  more  than  2500  persons.  I  do  not  pretend  to  say  that  this  esti- 
mate is  accurate,  as  from  the  manner  in  which  the  people  are  disper- 
sed along  the  coast  in  the  summer,  it  is  quite  impossible  that  it  should 
be  so ;  but  it  may  serve  to  show  that  the  tribe  is  not  very  numer- 
ous. 

As  we  landed  upon  every  part  of  the  coast,  to  which  these  villa- 


•!:■»* 


1 827.  J 


ANU     UEElllNU  S  bTllAlT. 


475 


.r's 


mts  whom  wc 


lich  these  villa- 


ges appear  to  bo  confined,  it  is  not  likely  that  many  escaped  our 
observation;  neither  is  it  probable  that  there  are  many  inland  or 
far  up  the  river«,  zs  iVequent  access  to  the  sea  is  essential  to  the  hab- 
its ol"  the  people.  Besides,  this  may  further  bo  inferred,  from  the 
circumstance  of  no  Esquimaux  villages  being  found  up  either  the 
M'Kenvuie  or  Coppermine  Rivers,  and  from  the  swampy  nature  of 
the  country  in  general  and  the  well  known  hostile  disposition  of  the 
Indians  towards  the  Esquimaux. 

Their  yourts  or  winter  residences  are  partly  excavated  in  the 
earth  and  partly  covered  with  moss  laid  upon  poles  of  drift-wood. 
Tiiere  are  however  several  kinds  of  habitations  which  seem  to  vary 
in  their  construction  according  to  the  nature  of  the  ground  and  the 
taste  of  the  inhabitants.  Some  are  wholly  above  ground,  others 
have  their  roof  scarcely  raised  above  it ;  some  resemble  those  of  the 
Tschutschi,  and  others  those  of  the  natives  near  Prince  William 
Sound  ;  but  they  all  agree  in  being  constructed  with  drift  wood  cov- 
ered with  peat,  and  in  having  the  light  admitted  through  a  hole  in 
the  roof  covered  with  the  intestines  of  sea  animals.  The  natives  re- 
side in  these  abodes  during  the  winter  and  when  the  season  ap- 
proaches at  which  they  commence  their  wanderings  they  launch 
their  baiilars  and  taking  their  families  with  them,  spread  along  the 
coast  in  quest  of  food  and  clothing  for  the  ensuing  winter.  An  ex- 
perienced fisherman  knows  the  places  which  are  most  abundant  in 
fish  and  seals,  and  resorts  thither  in  the  hope  of  being  the  first 
occupier  of  the  station.  Thus  almost  every  poini  )f  land  and  the 
mouths  of  all  the  rivers  are  taken  possession  of  by  the  tribe.  Here 
they  remain,  and  pass  their  time,  no  doubt,  very  happily,  in  the 
constat!^  occupation  of  taking  salmon,  seals,  walrusses,  and  reindeer, 
and  collecting  peltry,  of  which  the  beaver  skins  are  of  very  supe- 
rior quality,  or  whatever  else  they  can  procure  which  may  prove 
useful  as  winter  store. 

During  their  absence  the  villages  are  left  in  charge  of  a  few  el- 
derly women  and  children,  with  a  youth  or  two  to  assist  them,  who 
besides  preventing  depredations,  are  deputed  to  cleanse  and  pre- 
pare the  yourts  for  the  reception  of  the  absentees  at  the  approach  of 
winter.  As  long  as  the  fine  weather  lasts  they  hve  under  tents 
made  of  deer-skins  laced  upon  poles  ;  but  about  the  middle  of  Sep- 
tember, they  break  up  these  establishments  load  their  baidars  with 
the  produce  of  their  labour,  and  track  them  along  the  coast  with 
dogs  towards  their  yourts,  in  which  they  take  up  their  winter  station 
as  before,  and  regale  themselves  after  their  success,  by  dancing  sing- 
ing and  banquetting  '  as  appears  to  be  the  custom  with  the  Eastern 
Esquimaux,  and  from  their  having  largo  rooms  appropriated  to  such 
diversions. 

These  winter  stations  may  be  always  known  at  a  distance  by  trunks 


14 


h-- 


I)*' 


W 


i. 


ir 


i! 


1, 


47G 


VOVAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[Oct. 


of  trees,  and  frames  erected  near  tliem ;  some  supporting  sledges 
and  skins  of  oil,  and  others  the  scantling  of  boats,  caiacs,  fishing  im- 
plements, &.C. 

We  had  no  opportunity  of  witnessing  their  occupations  in  the 
winter,  which  must  consist  in  the  construction  of  implements  for  the 
forthcoming  season  of  activity,  in  making  clothes  and  carving  and 
ornamenting  their  property,  for  almost  every  article  made  of  bone 
is  covered  with  devices.  They  appear  to  have  no  king  or  gover- 
nor, but,  like  the  patriarchal  tribes,  to  venerate  and  obey  the  aged. 
They  have  sometimes  a  great  fear  of  the  old  women  who  pretend  to 
witchcraft. 

It  seems  probable  that  their  religion  is  the  same  as  that  of  the 
Eastern  Esquimaux,  and  that  they  have  similar  conjurers  and  sor- 
cerer?. We  may  infer  that  they  have  an  idea  of  a  future  state, 
from  the  fact  of  their  placing  near  the  graves  of  their  departed 
friends  the  necessary  implements  for  procuring  a  subsistence  in  this 
world,  such  as  harpoons,  bows,  and  arrows,  caiacs,  &.c.  and  by 
clothing  the  body  decently  ;  and  from  the  circumstance  of  musical 
instruments  being  suspended  to  the  poles  of  the  sepulchres,  it  would 
seem  that  they  consider  such  state  not  to  be  devoid  of  enjoyments. 
Their  mode  of  burial  differs  firom  that  of  the  Eastern  Esquimaux, 
who  inter  their  dead  ;  whereas  these  people  dispose  the  corpse  upon 
a  platform  of  wood,  and  raise  a  pile  over  it  with  young  trees.  The 
position  in  which  the  bodies  are  laid  also  differs  ;  the  head  being 
placed  to  the  westward  by  this  nation,  while  in  the  eastern  tribes  it 
lies  to  the  north-east. 

They  are  taller  in  stature  than  the  Eastern  Esquimaux,  their  aver- 
age height  being  about  five  feet  seven  and  a  half  inches.  They  are 
also  a  better  looking  race,  if  1  may  judge  from  the  natives  I  saw  in 
Baffin's  Bay,  and  from  ;he  portraits  of  others  that  have  been  pub- 
lished. At  a  comparatively  early  age,  however,  they  (the  women 
in  particular)  soon  lose  this  comeliness,  and  old  age  is  attended  with 
a  haggard  and  care-worn  countenance,  rendered  more  unbecoming 
by  sore  eyes,  and  by  teeth  worn  to  the  gums  by  frequent  mastica- 
tion of  hard  substances. 

They  differ  widely  in  disposition  from  the  inhabitants  of  Igloo- 
lik  and  Greenland,  being  more  continent,  industrious,  and  provident 
and  rather  partaking  of  the  warlike,  irascible,  and  uncourteous  tem- 
per of  the  Tschutschi.  Neither  do  they  appear  by  any  means  so 
deficient  in  filial  affection  as  the  natives  of  Igloolik,  who  as  soon  as 
they  commenced  their  summer  exertions  left  their  aged  and  infirm 
to  perish  in  the  villages  ;  of  whom  it  will  be  recollected  that  one 
old  man,  in  particular,  must  have  fallen  a  victim  to  this  unnatural 
neglect,  had  not  his  horrible  fate  been  arrested  by  the  timely  hu- 
manity of  the  commander  of  the  polar  expedition. 


4 


fting  sledges 
s,  fishing  im- 

ations  in  the 
ments  for  the 
i  carving  and 
Bade  of  bone 
ing  or  gover- 
)ey  the  aged, 
lio  pretend  to 

as  that  of  the 
irers  and  sor- 
a  future  state, 
their  departed 
Istence  in  this 
,  &,c.  and  by 
ice  of  musical 
;lires,  it  would 
of  enjoyments. 
n  Esquimaux, 
he  corpse  upon 
g  trees.     The 
he  head  being 
astern  tribes  it 

LUX,  their  aver- 

es.     Tliey  are 

itives  I  saw  in 

ave  been  pub- 

y  (the  women 

attended  with 

e  unbecoming 

uent  mastica- 

Itants  of  Igloo- 

1  and  provident 

pourteous  teni- 

any  means  so 

iho  as  soon  as 

red  and  infum 

l^ted  thai  one 

I  this  unnatural 

bie  timely  hu- 


1827.J 


AND    BUEHINO  S    STIIAIT. 


477 


With  the  Western  Esquimaux,  as  indeed  w'tii  almost  all  uncivi- 
lized tribes,  hospitality  seems  to  form  one  cLaractt;ristic  feature  of 
the  disposition  ;  as  if  JNature,  by  the  gift  of  this  virtue,  had  intended 
to  check,  in  some  measure  that  ferocity  which  is  otherwise  so  pre- 
dominant. 

Smoking  is  their  favourite  habit,  in  which  they  indulga  as  long  as 
their  tobacco  lasts.  Parties  assemble  to  enjoy  the  fumes  of  this 
narcotic,  and  the  pipe  passes  round  like  the  calumet  of  the  Indians 
but  apparently  without  the  ceremony  being  binding.  Their  pipes  are 
short,  and  the  bowls  of  some  contaiij  no  m..re  tobacco  than  can  be 
consumed  in  a  long  whift';  indeed,the  great  pleasure  of  the  party  often 
consists  in  individuals  endavouring  to  excel  each  other  in  exhausting 
the  contents  of  the  bowl  at  one  breath,  and  many  a  laugh  is  indul- 
ged at  the  expense  of  him  who  fails,  or  who,  as  is  very  frequently 
the  case,  is  thrown  into  a  fit  of  coughing  by  the  smoke  getting  into 
his  lungs. 

They  seldom  use  tobacco  in  any  other  way  than  this,  though 
some  natives  whom  we  saw  to  the  southward  of  Beering's  Strait 
were  not  averse  to  chewing  it,  and  the  St.  Lawrence  islanders  indul- 
ged in  snufF.  Their  predilection  for  tobacco  is  no  doubt  derived 
from  the  Tschutschi,  who  are  passionately  fond  of  it,  that  they  are 
said,  by  Captain  Cochrane,  to  snufF,  chew,  and  smoke,  all  at  the 
same  time.  The  practice  of  adulterating  tobacco  is  common  with 
the  Tschutschi,  and  has,  no  doubt,  passed  from  them  to  the  Esqui- 
maux, who  often  adopt  it  from  choice.  That  which  finds  its  way 
to  the  N.W.  coast  of  America  is  of  very  inferior  quality,  and  often 
has  dried  wood  chopped  up  with  it. 

The  ornaments  worn  in  the  lip,  described  in  the  course  of  this 
narrative,  are  peculiar  to  the  males  of  the  Western  Esquimaux,  and 
are  in  use  only  from  Norton  Sound,  where  they  were  seen  by  Cap- 
tain King,  to  the  Mackenzie  River,  where  they  were  worn  by  the 
party  which  attacked  Captain  Franklin.  The  practice  is  by  no. 
means  modern,  as  Deschnew,  as  far  back  as  1648,  describes  the  in- 
habitants of  the  islands  opposite  Tschutskoi  Noss  as  having  pieces 
of  sea-horse  tusk  thrust  into  holes  in  their  lips.  No  lip  ornaments 
similar  to  these  have  been  seen  to  the  eastward  of  the  Mackenzie 
River ;  and  indeed  we  know  of  no  other  tribe  which  has  adopted 
this  singular  custom  of  disfiguring  the  face,  except  that  inhabiting 
the  coast  noar  Prince  William  Sound,  and  even  there  the  arrange- 
ment differs.  It  is  remarkable  that  the  practice  with  them  is  con- 
fined to  the  women,  while  in  the  tribe  to  the  northward  it  is  limited 
to  the  men.  It  is  ako  singular,  that  this  barbarous  custom  of  the 
males  is  confined  to  so  small  a  portion  of  the  coast,  while  that  by 
which  the  females  are  distinguished  extends  from  Greenland,  along 
the  northern  and  western  shores  of  America,  down  to  California. 


y>. 


ti 


"k 


i. 


■^ 


478 


VOYAGK    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[Oct. 


1/, 


ii  '4 


Nasal  ornaments,  so  common  with  the  tribes  to  the  southvvaru  of 
Oonalaska,  were  seen  by  us  in  one  instance  only,  and  were  then 
worn  by  the  females  of  a  party  whose  dialect  differed  from  that  in 
general  use  with  the  tribe  to  the  westward  of  Point  Barrow.  The 
custom  disappears  to  the  northward  of  Alaska,  and  occurs  again  in 
the  tribe  near  the  Mackenzie  River.  A  similar  break  in  the  link 
of  fashion  in  the  same  nation  may  be  traced  in  the  practice  of  shav- 
ing the  crown  of  the  head,  which  is  general  with  the  Western  Es- 
quimaux, ceases  at  the  Mackenzie  River,  and  appears  again  in 
Hudson's  Bay,  and  among  a  tribe  of  Greenlanders,  who,  when  they 
were  discovered  by  Captain  Ross,  had  been  so  long  excluded  from 
intercourse  with  any  other  people,  that  they  imagined  themselves 
the  only  living  human  beings  upon  the  face  of  the  globe.* 

It  was  remarked  that  the  inhabitants  of  Point  Barrow  had  copper 
kettles,  and  were  in  several  respects  better  supplied  with  European 
articles  than  the  people  who  resided  to  the  southward.  Captain 
Franklin  found  among  the  Esquimaux  near  the  Mackenzie  several 
of  these  kettles,  and  other  manufactures,  which  were  so  unlike  those 
supplied  by  the  North-west  Company,  as  to  leave  no  doubt  of  their 
being  obtJ-lned  from  the  westward.  Connecting  these  facts  with  the 
behavior  of  the  natives  who  visited  us  off  Wainwright  Inlet,  and  the 
information  obtained  by  Augustus,  the  interpreter,  it  is  very  proba- 
ble that  between  the  Mackenzie  River  and  Point  Barrow  there  is 
an  agent  who  receives  these  articles  from  the  Asiatic  coast,  and  parts 
with  them  in  exchange  for  furs.  Augustus  learned  from  the  Es- 
quimaux that  the  people  from  whom  these  articles  were  procured 
resided  up  the  river  to  the  westward  of  Return  Reef.  The  copper 
kettles,  in  all  probability,  coiiie  from  the  Russians,  as  the  Tscluit- 
schi  have  such  an  aversion  to  utensils  made  of  that  metal,  that  they 
will  not  even  use  one  when  lined  with  tin.f  From  the  cautious 
manner  in  which  the  whole  tribe  dispose  of  their  furs,  reserving  the 
most  valuable  for  larger  prices  than  we  felt  inclined  to  give,  and 
sometimes  producing  only  the  inferior  ones,  we  were  induced  to  sus- 
pect that  there  were  several  Esquimaux  acting  as  agents  upon  the 
coast,  properly  instructed  by  their  employers  in  Kamschatka,  who 
having  collected  the  best  furs  from  the  natives,  crossed  over  with 
them  to  the  Asiatic  coast,  and  returned  with  the  necessary  articles 
for  the  purchase  of  others. 

I  regret  that  we  never  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  Es(jui- 
maux  in  pursuit  of  their  game,  or  in  any  way  actively  employed, 
except  in  transporting  their  goods  along  the  coast.  One  cause  for 
this  is  that  they  relinquished  all  occupation  on  our  appearance,  to 

*  Woe  a  letter  from  Captain  Ec'ward  SabiiiP,  Journal  of  S-icucc,  vol.  vii. 
+  Cuptuiu  Cochrane's  Journey  iu  Siberia. 


k<»Ma«i         Piu- 


'i> 


[Oct. 

soutbwaru  of 
d  were  then 
from  that  in 
arrow.     The 
ccurs  again  in 
ak  in  the  link 
ictice  of  shav- 
Western  Es- 
jears  again  in 
ho,  when  they 
excluded  from 
ed  themselves 
obe.* 

row  had  copper 
with  European 
card.     Captain 
;kenzie  several 
£0  unlike  those 
iO  doubt  of  their 
se  facts  with  the 
It  Inlet,  and  the 
t  is  very  proba- 
larrow  there  is 
;  coast,  and  parts 
1  from  the  Es- 
s  were  procured 
f.     The  copper 
as  the  Tschul- 
metal,  that  they 
)m  the  cautious 
rs,  reserving  the 
id   to  give,  and 
_  induced  to  sus- 
igents  upon  the 
imschatka,  who 
jssed  over  with 
ecessary  articles 

leing  the  Esqui- 
jivcly  employed, 
One  cause  for 
appearance,  to 

cc,  vol.  vii. 


1827.] 


AND  BEERINO  S  STRAIT. 


419 


obtain  some  of  the  riches  that  were  on  board  the  ship.  It  may, 
however,  be  inferred,  from  the  carvings  upon  their  ivory  imple- 
ments, that  their  employments  are  numerous,  and  very  similar  to 
those  practised  by  the  Greenlanders.  Of  these,  rein-deer  hunting 
appears  to  be  the  most  common.  If  we  may  credit  the  sculptured 
instruments,  they  shoot  these  animals  with  bows  and  arrows,  which, 
from  the  shyness  of  the  deer,  must  require  great  skill  and  artifice  to 
effect.  The  degree  of  skill  may  be  inferred  from  the  distance  at 
which  some  of  the  parties  are  drawn  shooting  their  arrows,  and  the 
artifice  is  shown  by  a  device  of  a  deer's  bead  and  horns  placed 
upon  the  shoulders  of  a  person  creeping  on  all-fours  towards  the  an- 
imal, after  the  manner  of  the  Canfornian  Indians,  and  of  some  of 
the  inland  tribes  of  North  America.  We  found  the  flint  head  of  an 
arrow  which  had  been  used  for  this  purpose  broken  in  a  haunch  of 
venison  that  was  purchased  from  the  inhabitants  near  Icy  Cape. 
In  some  of  the  representations  the  deer  are  seen  swimming  in  the 
water,  and  the  Esquimaux  harpooning  them  from  their  caiacs,  in 
the  manner  represented  in  the  plate  in  Captain  Parry's  Second 
Voyage,  p.  508. 

As  an  instance  of  their  method  of  killing  whales,  we  found  a  har- 
poon in  one  that  was  dead,  with  a  drag  attached  to  it  made  of  an 
inflated  seal-skin.  It  must  be  extremely  difficult  for  these  people, 
with  their  slender  means,  to  capture  these  enormous  animals,  and  it 
must  require  considerable  perseverance.  The  occupation,  howev- 
er, appears  to  be  less  hazardous  than  of  killing  walrusses,  which,  by 
the  devices  upon  the  instruments,  occasionally  attack  the  caiacs. 
The  implements  for  taking  these  animals  are  the  same  as  described 
by  Captain  Parry.  Seals  are  also  captured  in  the  manner  describ- 
ed by  him.  Upon  some  of  the  bone  implements  there  are  correct 
representations  of  persons  creeping  along  the  ice  towards  their  prey, 
which  appears  to  have  been  decoyed  by  an  inflated  seal-skin  placed 
near  the  edge  of  the  ice  ;  an  artifice  frequently  practised  by  the 
eastern  tribes.  These  animals  are  also  taken  in  very  strong  nets 
made  of  walrus-hide  ;  and  another  mode  is  by  harpooning  th§m  with 
a  dart  about  five  feet  in  length,  furnished  with  a  barb,  which  is  dis- 
engaged from  its  socket  when  it  strikes  the  animal,  and  being  fasten- 
ed by  a  line  to  the  centre  of  the  staff,  the  harpoon  acts  as  a  drag. 
This  instrument  is  discharged  with  a  throwing  board,  which  is  easi- 
ly used,  and  gives  very  great  additional  force  to  the  dart,  and  in  the 
hands  of  a  skillful  person  will  send  a  dart  to  a  considerable  distance. 
The  throwing  board  is  mentioned  also  by  Captain  Parry,  by  Crantz, 
and  others,  and  corresponds  with  the  womoru  of  New  Zealand. 

We  noticed  in  the  possession  of  a  party  to  the  northward  of  Kot- 
zebue  Sound  a  small  ivory  instrument,  similar  to  the  Iceipkuttuk  of 
the  Igloolik  tribe. 


4 


#■) 


'ill 


480 


VOYAGE  TO    THE  PACIFIC 


[Oct, 


I 


Birds  are  likewise  struck  with  darts  which  resemble  the  nvgvit 
of  Greenland;  they  arc  also  caught  in  whalebone  snares,  and  by 
having  their  flight  arrested  by  a  number  of  balls  attached  to  thongs 
about  two  feet  in  lengtli :  they  are  sometimes  shot  with  arrows  pur- 
posely constructed  with  blunt  heads. 

The  practice  of  firing  at  a  mark  appears  to  be  one  of  the  amuse- 
ments of  the  Esquimaux  ;  and  judging  from  what  we  saw  at  Cham- 
isso  Island  there  are  some  extraordinary  performers  in  this  way 
among  the  tribe.  One  day  a  diver  was  swimm'ng  at  the  distance 
of  thirty  yards  from  the  beach,  and  a  native  was  offered  a  reward 
if  he  would  shoot  it  :  he  fired,  but  the  bird  evaded  the  arrow  by 
diving.  The  Esquimaux  watched  its  comii'^  -o  the  surface,  and 
the  instant  his  head  appeared  he  transfixed  both  eyes  with  his  arrow. 
He  was  rewarded  for  his  skilfulness,  and  the  skin  was  preserved  as 
a  specimen  of  ornithology  and  of  Indian  archery.  Generally  speak- 
ing, however,  I  do  not  think  they  are  expert  marksmen. 

Their  bows  are  shaped  differently  to  those  of  Igloolik,  and  are 
superior  to  any  on  the  eastern  coast  of  America  ;  they  are,  how- 
ever, made  upon  the  same  principle,  with  sinews  and  wedges  at  the 
back  of  the  wood.  On  the  western  coast  driftwood  is  so  abundant 
that  the  inhabitants  have  their  choice  of  several  trees,  and  are  nev- 
er obliged  to  piece  their  implements.  It  requires  some  care  to  bring 
a  bow  to  the  form  which  they  consider  best ;  and  for  this  purpose 
they  wrap  it  in  shavings  soaked  in  water,  and  hold  it  over  a  fire  ; 
it  is  then  pegged  down  upon  the  earth  in  the  form  required.  If 
not  attended  to  when  used,  the  bows  are  apt  to  get  out  of  order, 
and  the  string  to  slip  out  of  its  place,  by  which  the  bow  bends  the 
wrong  way,  and  is  easily  broken. 

In  these  bows  the  string  is  in  oo.itact  with  about  a  foot  of  the 
wood  at  each  end,  and  when  used  makes  a  report  which  would  be 
fatal  to  secrecy.  The  Californians,  .iccustomed  to  fight  in  ambush, 
are  very  careful  to  have  that  part '  'the  string  muffled  with  fur,  but 
1  never  saw  any  precaution  of  the  i.ind  used  by  the  Esquimaux. 
To  protect  the  wrist  from  the  abrasion  which  would  ensue  from 
frequent  firing,  the  Esquimaux  buckle  on  a  piece  of  ivory  called 
mun-era,  about  three  or  four  inches  long,  hollowed  out  to  the  wrist 
or  a  gaurd  made  of  several  pieces  of  ivory  or  wood  fastened 
together  like  an  ironholder. 

Fishing  implements  are  more  numerous  and  varied  with  the 
Western  Esquimaux  than  with  the  others,  and  some  are  constructed 
with  much  neatness  and  ingenuity  ;  but  I  do  not  know  that  any  of 
them  require  description  except  a  landing  net,  and  that  only  because 
it  is  not  mentioned  by  Captain  Parry.  This  consists  of  a  circular 
frame  of  wood  or  bone,  about  eight  inches  in  diameter,  worked 
across  with  whalebone  like  the  bottoms  of  cane  chain,  and  fixed 
upon  a  long  wooden  handle. 


1827.] 


AND    BEERINg's    STIIAIT. 


481 


Of  all  their  manufactures,  that  of  ivory  chains  is  the  most  inge- 
nious. These  are  cut  out  of  solid  pieces  of  ivory,  each  link  being 
separately  relieved,  and  arc  sometimes  twenty -six  inches  in  length. 
For  what  purpose  they  are  used  1  know  not ;'  but  part  of  the  last 
link  is  frequently  left  solid,  and  formed  in  imitation  of  a  whale ; 
and  these  chains  being  strong,  they  may  in  some  way  or  other  be 
appropriated  to  the  capture  of  that  animal. 

Among  a  great  many  singularly  shaped  tools  in  the  possession  of 
these  people,  we  noticed  several  that  are  not  in  Caplain  Parry's 
catalogue,  such  as  instruments  for  breaking  wood  short  off;  small 
hand  chisels,  consisting  of  pieces  of  hard  stone  fixed  in  bone  han- 
dles adapted  to  the  palm  of  the  hand  ;  meshes  for  making  nets  ;  an 
instrument  made  with  the  claws  of  a  seal,  for  cleansing  skins  of 
their  fat,  &;c.  Though  I  never  saw  the  screw  in  use  among  this 
tribe,  yet  I  found  a  worm  properly  cut  upon  the  end  of  one  of  their 
fishing  implements.  The  panna,  or  double-edged  knife,  is  also  in 
use  with  these  people  ;  some  of  them  were  inlaid  with  brass,  and 
undoubtedly  came  from  the  Tschutschi. 

The  language  of  the  Western  Esquimaux  so  nearly  resembles 
that  of  the  tribes  to  the  eastward,  as  scarcely  to  need  any  further 
mention,  particularly  after  the  fact  of  Augustus,  who  was  a  native 
of  Hudson's  Bay,  being  able  to  converse  with  the  Esquimaux  whom 
he  met  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie  River.  It  may,  however 
be  useful  to  show,  by  means  of  a  vocabulary  compiled  from  the 
people  we  visited,  how  nearly  it  coincides  with  that  givew  by  Cap- 
tain Parry  ;  some  allowances  being  made  for  the  errors  to  which  all 
collectors  are  liable,  who  can  only  make  themselves  understood  by 
signs,  and  who  collate  from  small  parties,  residing  perhaps  at  a  dis- 
tance from  each  other,  and  who,  though  they  speak  the  same 
language,  may  make  use  of  a  different  dialect.  It  does  not  appear 
that  this  language  extends  much  beyond  Norton  Sound,  certainly 
not  down  to  Oonalashka ;  for  the  natives  of  that  island,  who  are 
sometimes  employed  by  the  Russians  as  interpreters,  are  of  no  use 
on  the  American  coast,  near  Beering's  Strait.  The  language, 
notwithstanding,  has  a  great  affinity,  and  may  be  radically  the 
same. 

It  is  unnecessary  to  pursue  further  the  peculiiriiies  of  these  people, 
which  are  so  similar  to  those  of  the  eastern  tribes,  as  to  leave  no 
doubt  of  both  people  being  descended  from  the  same  stock ;  and, 
though  tlie  inliabitants  of  Melville  Peninsula  declared  they  knew  of 
peo})le  to  the  westward  of  Akoolce,  there  is  much  reason  to  believe 
from  the  articles  of  Asiatic  manufacture  found  in  their  possession, 
that  there  is  an  occasional  communication  between  all  the  tribes  on 
the  north  coa'^t  of  America. 

The  subject  of  currents  in  Beering's  Strait  has  lost  much  of  its  inter- 

61 


482 


VOYAOE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Oct. 


est  by  the  removal  of  the  doubt  regarding  the  separation  of  the 
continents  of  Asia  and  America ;  and  it  is  now  of  importance  only 
to  the  navigator,  and  to  the  natural  philosopher. 

It  does  not  appear.,  from  our  passages  across  the  seaofKamschat- 
ka,  that  any  great  body  of  water  flows  towards  Beering's  Strait.  In 
one  year  the  whole  amount  of  current  fromPetropaulski  to  St.  Law- 
rence Island  vvasS.  54°  W.  thirty-one  miles,  and  in  the  next  N.  50" 
W.  fifty  one  miles,  and  from  Kotzebue  Sound  to  Oonemak  N.  79". 
W,  seventy-nine  miles.  Approaching  Beering's  Strait,  the  first 
year,  with  light  southerly  winds,  it  ran  north  sixteen  miles  per  day  ; 
and  in  the  next,  with  strong  S.  W.  winds,  north  five  miles  ;  and  with 
a  strong  N.E.  wind,  N.  34°  W  twenty-three  miles.  Returning  three 
different  times  with  gales  at  N.  W.  there  was  no  perceptible  current. 
By  these  observations  it  appears  that  near  the  strait  with  southerly 
and  easterly  winds  there  is  a  current  to  the  northward  ;  but  with 
northerly  and  north-westerly  winds  there  is  none  to  the  southward, 
and  consequently  that  the  preponderance  is  in  favour  of  the  former, 
and  of  the  generally  received  opinion  of  all  persons  who  have  nav- 
igated these  seas.  I  prefer  this  method  of  arriving  at  the  set  of  the 
current  to  giving  experiments  made  occasionally  with  boats,  as  they 
would  lead  to  a  result,  which  would  err  according  to  the  time  of  the 
tide  at  which  they  were  made. 

To  the  northward  of  Beering's  Strait,  the  nature  of  the  service  we 
were  employed  upon  confined  us  within  a  few  miles  of  the  coast; 
there  the  northerly  current  was  more  apparent.  We  first  detected 
it  ofFSchismarefF  Inlet ;  it  increased  to  between  one  and  two  miles 
an  hour,  ofFCape  Krusenstem,  and  arrived  at  its  maximum,  three 
miles  an  hour,  off  Point  Hope  :  this  was  vi'ith  the  flood  tide  ;  the 
ebb  ran  W.  S.  W.  half  a  mile  an  hour.  Heie  the  current  was  turned 
off  to  the  north-west  by  the  point,  and  very  lutle  was  afterwards  felt 
to  the  northward.  The  point  is  bold  and  shingly,  and  shows  every 
indication  of  the  current  being  prevalent  and  rapid. 

This  current,  as  I  have  before  remarked,  was  confined  nearly  to 
the  surface  and  within  a  few  miles  of  the  land  ;  at  the  depth  of  nine 
feet  its  velocity  was  evidently  diminished,  and  at  three  and  five  fath- 
oms there  was  none.  The  upper  stratum,  it  should  be  observed, 
was  much  fresher  than  sea  water ;  and  there  is  no  doubt  that  this 
current  was  greatly  accelerated,  if  not  wholly  occasioned,  by  rivers  ; 
but  why  it  took  a  northerly  course  is  a  question  I  am  not  prepared 
to  answer. 

To  the  northward  and  eastward  of  Cape  Lisburn  we  found  little 
or  no  current  until  we  arrived  at  Icy  Cape.  Off  this  projection  it 
ran  strong,  but  in  opposite  directions,  and  seemed  to  be  influenced 
entirely  by  the  winds.  Near  Point  Barrow,  with  a  southwesterly 
gale,  it  ran  at  the  rate  of  three  miles  an  hour  and  upwards  to  the 


Jt 


1827.] 


AND    BEERINC  S    STRAIT. 


483 


m 


N.  E.,  and  did  not  subside  immediately  with  the  wind;  but  the  cur- 
rent must  here  have  been  increased  by  the  cliannel  between  the 
land  and  the  ice  becoming  momentarily  arrowed  by  the  pack  clos- 
ing the  beach ;  and  it  must  not  be  imagined  that  the  whole  body  ol' 
water  in  the  Polar  Sea  was  going  at  the  rapid  rate  above  mention- 
ed, which  would  be  contrary  to  our  experiments  in  the  offing. 
Another  cause  of  this  may  be  a  bank  lying  to  the  westward  of  ley 
Cape,  upon  one  part  of  which  the  water  shoals  from  thirty-two  fath- 
oms to  nineteen,  and  the  bottom  is  changed  from  mud  to  stones. 

It  is  evident,  from  the  above  mentioned  facts,  that  a  current  pre- 
vails in  a  northerly  direction,  although  we  are  unable  to  state  with 
precision  its  amount,  which  cannot  under  any  circumstances  be 
great,  nor,  I  should  think,  exceed  a  mile  an  hour  on  the  average. 
To  be  able  to  speak  positively  on  this  subject  would  require  a  vast 
number  of  trials  to  be  made  in  the  same  place,  and  at  a  distance 
from  the  land,  out  of  the  influence  of  rivers.  Wc  may  however 
presume,  that  the  above-mentioned  direction  is  that  of  the  prevail- 
ing current  throughout  the  year ;  for,  upon  examining  the  shoals  oft' 
the  principal  headlands,  we  find  them  all  to  extend  to  the  north- 
west, as  may  be  seen  on  referring  to  St.  Lawrence  Island,  Capes 
Prince  of  Wales,  Krusenstern,  and  Lisburn,  and  also  to  Point  Hope. 
This  I  conceive  to  be  the  most  certain  mode  of  deciding  the  ques- 
tion, without  purposely  stationing  a  vessel  in  the  strait,  and  it  is  sat- 
isfactory to  find  that  the  result  fully  coincides  with  the  experiments 
made  near  the  shore  by  the  Blossom  and  her  boats.*  Our  obser- 
vations, of  course,  apply  to  one  season  of  the  year  only,  as  no  ex- 
periments have  as  yet  been  made  in  the  winter. 

The  course  of  this  current,  after  it  passes  Cape  Lisburn,  is  some- 
what doubtful ;  we  should  expect  it  to  diverge,  and  one  part  to 
sweep  round  Icy  Cape  and  Point  Barrow  ;  but  the  shoals  off  the 
former  place,  like  the  currents  themselves,  do  not  furnish  any  satis- 
factory inference.  These  shoals  lie  parallel  with  the  shore,  and 
may  be  occasioned  by  ice  grounded  off  the  point.     It  may  be  ob- 

♦  I  was  ill  hopes  that  I  had  expressed  myself  clearly  on  this  subject  in  the  first 
edition  of  my  work  ;  but  I  find  that  I  liave  been  misunderstood,  and  even  suppo.sed 
in  one  place  to  have  contradicted  my  statement  in  another.  This  apparrcnt  disa- 
greement has  arisen  partly,  if  not  wliolly,  from  an  oversight  in  some  of  my  readers, 
who  have  compared  observations,  made  at  the  surface  of  the  sea  at  one  place,  witli 
those  &t  Jive  fathoms  below  it  at  another  nearly  '200  miles  distant.  If  the  reader  will 
have  the  candour  to  compare  the  observations  made  at  the  surfaces  at  both  places,  he 
will  find  them  to  agree,  with  the  exception  that  tlie  current  at  one  place  ran  faster 
than  at  the  other,  the  reason  of  whicli  I  have  endeavoured  to  account  for  in  page 
482  of  this  volume.  I  shouhl  observe  here,  tliat  although  I  have  not  encumbered 
my  narrative  with  a  notice  of  every  time  the  current  was  tried,  such  observations 
were  made  repeatedly,  whenever  the  nature  of  the  service  I  was  employed  upon 
would  admit  of  it ;  liut  I  wish  it  to  be  I)ornc  in  mind,  tliat  tlie  situation  of  the  sliip, 
necessarily  close  in  sliorc,  was  highly  unfavourable  to  the  determination  of  the  ques- 
tion under  discussiou. 


(f 


1 


; 


■ii»i^i  IP  %m  I 


484 


VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[Oct. 


served  here,  that  voyagers  have  frequently  mentioned  westerly  cur- 
rents along  the  northern  coast  of  Asia  and  IVova  Zcmbla,  and  we 
know  from  experience,  that,  in  the  summer,  at  least,  there  is  a 
strong  westerly  current  between  Spitzbergen  and  Greenland.  In 
the  opposite  direction,  we  find  only  a  weak  stream  passing  through 
the  narrov,'  strait  of  Hecla  and  Fury,  and  none  through  Barrow 
Strait.  It  seems,  therefore,  probable,  that  the  principal  part  of  llie 
water  which  flows  into  the  Polar  Sea,  from  the  Pacific,  finds  its  way 
to  the  westward. 

By  many  experiments  made  on  shore  at  Icy  Cape  by  Lieutenant 
Belcher,  it  appeared  that  southerly  and  westerly  winds  occasioned 
high  tides,  and  northerly  and  easterly  winds  very  low  ebbs.  It 
would  seem,  from  this  fact  that  the  water  finds  some  obstruction  to 
the  northward,  and  I  think  it  probable  that  the  before  mentioned 
shoal,  which  closes  the  land  toward  Point  Barrow,  niay  extend  to 
the  northward ;  nay,  it  may  even  lie  off  the  coast  of  some  polar 
lands,  too  low  and  too  far  off  to  be  seen  from  the  margin  of  the  ice ; 
and  which  can  only  be  ascertained  by  journeys  over  the  ice,  in  a 
similar  manner  to  that  in  which  the  mountains  to  the  northward  of 
Shelatskoi  Koss  were  discovered  by  the  Russians.  It  was  this 
shoaling  of  the  water  to  the  northward  of  Cape  Lisburn  that  induc- 
ed the  late  Captain  Burney  to  believe  the  continents  of  Asia  and 
Amereica  were  connected. 

To  the  northward  of  Beering's  Strait  the  tide  rises  about  two  feet 
six  inches  at  full  and  change,  and  the  flood  comes  from  the  south- 
ward. 

The  quantity  of  drift  wood  found  upon  the  shores  of  Beering's 
Strait  has  occasioned  various  conjectures  as  to  the  source  from 
which  it  proceeds ;  some  imagining  it  to  be  brought  down  the  rivers ; 
others  to  be  drifted  from  the  southward. 

We  found  some  at  almost  every  place  where  we  landed,  and  oc- 
casionally in  great  quantities.  There  was  more  at  Point  Rodney 
than  in  any  other  part ;  a  great  deal  upon  Point  Spencer ;  some 
upon  Cape  Espenburg,  but  more  in  Kotzebue  Sound.  Between 
Cape  Krusenstern  and  Cape  Lisburn  there  was  very  little,  and  in 
the  bay  to  the  eastward  of  the  Cape  scarcely  any  ;  but  when  the 
coast  turned  to  the  northward  it  became  more  plentiful,  and  it  vvas 
afterwards  tolerably  abundant,  and  continued  so  all  the  way  to 
Point  Barrow.  In  addition  to  this,  it  should  be  remembered,  that 
a  great  deal  is  used  by  the  Esquimaux  for  boats,  implements  of  all 
sort,  houses,  and  fuel. 

These  trees  are  principally,  if  not  all,  either  pine  or  birch ;  all 
that  we  examined  were  of  these  two  species,  and  we  lost  no  oppor- 
tunity of  making  inquiry  on  this  subject.  The  wood  is  often  tougli 
and  good ;  indeed  some  that  was  taken  from  Clioris  Peninsula  was 


\Oct. 

iTcsteily  cur- 
)la,  and  we 
St,  there  is  a 
jenland.  In 
ising  through 
)ugh  Bariow 
al  part  of  the 
,  finds  its  way 

ly  Lieutenant 
ds  occasioned 
)W  ebbs.      It 
obstruction  to 
ire  mentioned 
ay  extend  to 
)f  some  polar 
•gin  of  the  ice  ; 
r  the  ice,  in  a 
northward  of 
It   was  this 
urn  that  induc- 
ts of  Asia  and 

about  two  feet 
)m  the  south- 

of  Beering's 

source  from 

3wn  the  livers ; 

anded,  and  oc- 
Point  Rodney 

jpencer ;  some 
nd.  Between 
little,  and  in 
but  when  the 
ful,  and  it  was 
11  the  way  to 
jembered,  that 
[ilements  of  all 

or  birch ;  all 
lost  no  oppor- 
is  often  tough 
*eninsula  was 


1827.] 


AND  beering's  stuait. 


485 


superior  to  the  pine  we  procured  at  Monterey  ;  but  from  this  stage 
of  preservation  it  may  be  traced  to  old  trunks  crumbling  to  dust. 
Some  trees  still  retained  their  bark,  and  a[)pearod  to  have  been  re- 
cently uprooted  ;  and  comparatively  few  showed  marks  of  having 
been  at  sea. 

Some  circumstances  favour  an  opinion,  by  no  means  unconmion, 
that  this  wood  is  drifted  from  the  sou  h ward  ;  such  as  its  being  found 
in  large  quantities  on  Point  Rodney,  the  many  floating  trees  met 
with  at  sea  to  the  soutward  of  Kamschatka,  &;c. ;  but  the  quantity 
of  this  material  found  by  Captain  Franklin  and  Dr.  Richardson  at 
the  mouths  of  the  rivers  on  the  northern  coast  of  America,  and  some 
being  found  by  us  high  up  Kotzebue  Sound,  in  Port  Clarence,  and 
other  places,  where  it  is  hardly  possible  for  it  to  be  drifted,  consid- 
ering the  outset  of  fresh  water,  renders  it  more  probable  that  it  is 
brought  down  from  the  interior  of  America.  Rivers  quite  sunicient 
for  this  purpose  will  be  found  on  an  inspection  of  the  chart ;  hut 
without  this  we  need  only  advert  to  the  before-mentioned  rapid  cur- 
rent of  nearly  fresh  water  to  prove  their  existence.  Did  the  wood 
come  by  sea  from  the  southward,  we  could  scarcely  have  failed 
seeing  some  of  it  in  our  passage  from  Petropaulski,  and  during  our 
cruises  to  the  northward  of  Beering's  Strait ;  but  scarcely  any  was 
observed  between  Kamschatka  and  St.  Lawrence  Island  ;  none  be- 
tween that  place  and  Beering's  Strait ;  and  only  six  or  seven  pieces 
of  short  wood  to  the  northward,  notwithstanding  the  coast  was  close- 
ly navigated  in  both  years  by  the  ship  and  the  barge.  Beside,  the 
westerly  current,  which  is  j)revalent  to  the  southward  of  Beering's 
Strait,  is  very  much  against  the  probability  of  its  being  drifted  from 
the  southward. 


We  passed  the  Aleutian  Islands  on  the  night  of  the  Hlh,  and  as 
in  the  preceding  year  entered  a  region  of  fine  clear  weather.  The 
volcano  on  Oonemak  was  still  emitting  flashes,  which  were  visible 
at  a  very  considerable  distance.  It  being  my  intention  now  to  make 
the  best  of  my  way  to  England,  I  directed  the  course  towards  Cal- 
ifornia, for  the  purpose  of  refitting  the  ship,  and  of  recruting  the 
health  -^f  the  ship's  company.  In  this  passage  nothing  remarkable 
occurred  until  the  20th,  on  which  day  the  sun  was  eclipsed,  when 
we  were  overtaken  by  a  violent  storm,  beginning  at  S.  E.  and  going 
round  the  compass  in  a  similar  manner  to  the  typhoons  in  the  Chi- 
na Sea.  As  the  gale  increased,  our  sails  were  gradually  reduced, 
until  a  small  storm  staysail  was  the  only  canvass  we  could  spread. 
The  sea  had  the  appearance  of  breakers,  and  the  birds  actually 
thew  themselves  into  the  water,  apparently  to  escape  the  fury  of  the 
wind.     About  four  in  the  afternoon,  just  before  the  gale  was  at  its 


m 


M 


i: 


w 


486 


VOYAGE  TO    TIIK    PACIFIC 


[Oct. 


¥■   ^, 


highest,  the  wind  shifted  suddenly  eight  points,  and  brought  the 
ship's  head  to  the  sea,  which  made  a  clear  breach  over  the  forecas- 
tle. Anticipating  a  change  of  this  nature,  we  fortunately  wore 
round  a  few  hours  before  it  occurred,  and  escaped  the  consequences 
which  must  have  attended  the  stern  of  the  ship  being  opposed  to 
such  breakers.  The  barometer  during  this  gale  fell  an  inch  in  elev- 
en hours,  and  rose  the  same  quantity  in  five  hours,  standing  at  528 -I 
when  at  its  lowest  altitude.  The  temperature  of  the  air  rose  nine 
degrees  from  eight  in  the  morning  to  noon,  and  fell  again  to  its  for- 
mer altititude  at  eight  at  night. 

On  the  24th,  we  were  concerned  to  find  several  of  the  seamen 
afflicted  with  scurvy.  Had  this  disease  appeared  the  preceding 
year,  in  which  they  had  been  a  very  long  time  upon  half  allowance 
of  salt  provisions,  and  without  any  vegetable  diet,  it  would  not  have 
been  extraordinary  ;  but  in  this  year  the  seamen  had  been  on  full 
allowance  of  the  best  kind  of  provision,  and  had  been  living  upon 
fresh  beefinChina,  turtle  and  fish  in  the  Arzobispo  Islands  and  Petro- 
paulski,  besides  the  full  allowance  of  lemon  juice,  pickled  cabbages, 
and  other  anti-scorbutics.  The  season  to  the  northward,  it  is  true, 
had  been  more  severe  than  of  the  prec'iding  year,  and  the  duty  in 
consequence  more  harassing  ;  but  this  i;  not  sufficient  in  my  opin- 
ion to  occasion  the  difference,  and  I  cannot  but  think  that  the  indul- 
gence in  turtle,  after  leaving  the  Arzobispo  Islands,  which  was 
thought  so  beneficial  at  the  moment,  induced  a  predisposition  to  the 
complaint.  The  disease  assumed  an  unusual  character,  by  scarcely 
affecting  the  gums,  while  patients  were  otherwise  so  ill  that  a  dispo- 
sition to  syncope  attended  the  exertion  of  walking.  Our  cases  for- 
tunately were  not  numerous,  being  confined  to  six  ;  and,  after  a  few 
days'  fresh  provisions  in  California,  were  entirely  cured. 

On  the  29th  we  were  apprised  of  our  approach  to  the  coast  of 
California  by  some  large  white  pelicans,  which  were  fishing  a  few 
miles  to  the  westward  of  Point  Pinos.  We  soon  afterwards  saw 
the  land,  and  at  eight  at  night  moored  in  the  Bay  of  Monterey. 
Early  the  following  morning  1  waited  upon  the  governor,  and  des- 
patched messengers  to  the  missions  of  St.  Carlos  and  St.  Cruz  for 
vegetables,  which  were  afterwards  served  daily  in  double  the  usual 
proportion  to  the  ship's  company,  who  benefited  so  much  by  the 
diet  that,  with  one  exception,  they  very  soon  recovered  from  all  in- 
disposition. 

By  some  English  newspapers,  which  were  found  in  this  remote 
part  of  the  world,  we  learned  the  melancholy  news  of  the  death  of 
His  Royal  Highness  the  Duke  of  York,  and  j)ut  the  ship  in  mourn- 
ing, by  hoisting  the  flag  half-mast  during  the  time  she  remained  in 
the  port. 

In  my  former  visit  to  this  country  i  remarked  that  the  padres 


-II 


1827.] 


AND    DF.F.niNn  3    STIIAIT. 


487 


were  much  mortified  at  being  tlesircd  to  liboralc  from  the  missions 
all  the  Indians  who  bore  good  characters,  and  who  were  accjiiainted 
witli  the  art  of  tiUing  the  ground.  Jn  consequence  of  their  remon- 
strances the  governor  inoihfied  the  order,  and  consented  to  make 
the  experiment  upon  a  few  only  at  first,  and  desired  that  a  certain 
number  might  be  settled  in  the  jjroposed  manner.  After  a 
few  months'  trial,  much  to  his  sur|)rise,  he  found  that  these  people, 
who  had  always  been  accustomed  to  the  care  and  discipline  of 
schoolboys,  finding  themselves  their  own  masters,  indulged  freely 
in  all  those  excesses  which  it  had  been  the  endeavour  of  their  tu- 
tors to  repress,  and  that  many,  having  gambled  away  their  clothes, 
implements,  and  even  their  land,  were  compelled  to  beg  or  to  plun- 
der in  order  to  support  life.  They  at  length  became  so  obnoxious 
to  the  peaceable  inhabitants,  that  the  padres  were  requested  to  take 
some  of  them  back  to  the  missions,  while  others  who  had  oeen  guil- 
ty of  misdemeanors  were  loaded  with  shackles  and  put  to  hard  work, 
and  when  we  arrived  were  employed  transporting  enormouii  stones 
to  the  beach  to  improve  the  landing-place. 

The  padres,  conscious  that  the  government  were  now  sensible 
of  the  importance  of  the  missions,  made  better  terms  for  themselves 
than  they  had  been  ofiered  by  the  llepublican  government.  They 
were  allowed  to  retain  their  places,  and  had  their  former  salary  of 
four  hundred  dollars  a  year  restored  to  them,  besides  a  promise  of 
payment  of  arrears.  In  return  for  this  a  pledge  was  exacted  from 
the  padres,  binding  them  to  conform  to  the  exlbting  laws  of  the  coun- 
try, and  in  every  way  to  consider  themselves  amenable  to  them. 
Thus  stood  the  missionary  cause  in  California  when  we  quitted  that 
country. 

We  remained  in  Monterey  until  the  17th,  and  then  sailed  for 
St.  Francisco  to  complete  our  water,  which  at  the  former  place 
besides  being  so  scarce  that  wo  could  hardly  procure  sufficient  for 
our  daily  consumption,  was  very  unwholesome,  being  brackish  and 
mingled  with  the  soapsuds  of  all  the  washerwomen  in  the  place, 
and  with  streams  from  the  bath.ing  places  of  the  Indians,  into  which 
they  were  in  the  habit  of  plunging  immediately  on  coming  out  of 
the  Temeschal. 

San  Francisco  had  undergone  no  visible  change  since  1826, 
except  that  the  presidio  had  suffered  from  the  shock  of  an  earth- 
quake on  the  22d  of  April,  which  had  greatly  alarmed  its  inhabi- 
tants. 

We  had  here  the  misfortune  to  lose  James  Bailey,  one  of  our  mar- 
ines, who  had  long  been  an  invalid. 

The  third  of  December  we  left  the  harbour  of  St.  Francisco,  the 
shores  of  which,  being  newly  clothed  with  snow,  had  a  very  wintry 
appearance  ;  and  on  the  13th  saw  Cape  St.  Lucas.     The  next  day 


•I' 


! 


M 


aiW"  --JhthwiAK-M ..  .^  ■*« 


.,-  «^x. 


r ' 


im 


VOYAnE  TO  THE  PACIFIC 


[Oct. 


Wo  wcroon'tlio  Tros  TMaiias,  tliroo  lii^h  islands,  sitiiatod  sovcnty- 
(■|V(j  niili's  to  tliu  westwartl  of  Sail  IJIas,  and  wtdl  luiowii  hy  tlie 
IVo()iient  mention  of  tlieni  in  tlic  history  ol'tlie  Hiiccanccrs,  and  by 
(jllicr  early  iiavit^alois  in  tlicso  seas.  In  constMiiiunco  of  a  cnnvnt 
setting  out  of  the  (nilfol"  Caniornia  we  were  more  to  leeward  than 
we  were  aware,  and,  with  a  vicnv  oi'savin!^  time,  passed  tin'oiit,h  tlio 
channel  between  the  two  northernmost  ishmds.  In  doing  this  we 
were  becahned  several  lionrs,  and  fully  verified  the  old  provcrl), 
that  the  longest  way  round  is  often  iho  shortest  way  home. 

This  channel  apjicars  to  be  quite  safe ;  and  in  the  narrowest  i)art 
has  from  sixteen  to  twenty-four  fathoms  water ;  but  the  ground  in 
other  places  is  very  steep,  and  at  two  miles  distance  from  the  shore 
to  the  westward  there  is  no  bottom  at  a  hundred  fathoms.  When 
the  wind  is  from  the  northward  it  is  calm  in  this  channel,  and  a  cur- 
rent sometimes  sets  to  the  southward,  which  renders  it  advisable, 
on  leaving  the  channel,  to  take  advantage  of  the  eddy  winds  which 
intervene  between  the  calm  and  the  true  breeze  to  keep  to  the 
northward,  to  avoid  being  set  down  upon  St.  (ieorge's  Island.  Wo 
found  these  islands  twenty  miles  further  from  San  IJlas  than  they 
were  placed  on  the  charts. 

The  next  morning  the  mountains  on  the  mainland  were  seen 
lowering  above  the  white  vapour  which  hangs  over  every  habitable 
part  of  the  land  near  San  IJlas.  The  highest  of  these,  San  Juan, 
(),'2''iO  feet  above  the  sea,  by  trigonometrical  measurement, is  the  best 
guide  to  the  Road  of  San  Bias,  as  it  may  be  seen  at  a  great  distance 
and  is  seldom  obscured  by  fogs,  while  the  low  lands  are  almost  al- 
ways so.  In  my  chart  of  this  part  of  Mexico  I  have  given  its  ex- 
act position.  When  the  Piodra  de  Mer  can  be  seen,  it  is  an  equal- 
ly certain  guide.  This  is  a  rock  about  ten  miles  west  of  the  anchor- 
age, a  hundred  and  thirty  feet  high,  with  twelve  fathoms  water  all 
round  it. 

The  afternoon  was  well  advanced  before  we  anchored  in  the 
Road  of  San  Bias,  and  the  refreshing  seabreeze,  sweeping  the  shores 
of  the  bay,  had  already  dispersed  the  mist,  which  until  then  steam- 
ed from  the  hot  swampy  savannahs  that  for  miles  surround  the  little 
isolated  rock  upon  which  the  town  is  built.  The  inhabitants  had 
not  yet  returned  from  Tepic,  to  which  place  they  migrate  during  the 
iiimpo  (h  las  aguos ;  the  rainy  season,  so  called  from  the  manner 
in  which  the  country  is  deliiir-'d  with  rain  in  the  summer  time. 

At  the  time  of  our  arrival  in  Mexico  political  afl'airs  were  very 
unsettled,  and  the  propcrt;,  o?  British  merchants  was  so  much  en- 
dangered, that  I  was  coiiqieded  to  accede  to  a  request  of  the  nun- 
chants,  made  through  the  vice-consul  of  San  JJlas,  that  I  would  do- 
lay  my  return  to  England,  and  remain  until  they  could  collect  their 
funds,  and  that  I  would  receive  them  on  board  for  conveyance  to 


[Oct. 


1828.) 


ANn    BRKRINfi'    STU\IT. 


489 


tod  scvcnty- 
lowii  by  the 
lULMS,  ami  by 
of  a  ciiiTent 
leeward  than 
il  tliroiii;!)  tiio 
loiny;  this  \\c 
old  provcib, 
loino. 

lanowost  part 
lie  ground  in 
roin  the  shore 
loins.  When 
lel,  and  a  cur- 
;  it  advisable, 
winds  which 
keep  to  the 
5  Island.  Wo 
las   than  they 

id  were  seen 
very  habitable 
ese,  San  Juan, 
lentjis  the  best 
great  distance 
;  are  almost  al- 

given  its  ex- 
it is  an  equal- 

f  the  anchor- 
lonis  water  all 

chored  in  the 

ling  the  shores 

til  then  steain- 

ound  the  little 

habitants   had 

ate  during  the 
n  the  manner 
nner  time, 
lirs  were  very 

so  much  ea- 
st of  the  nicr- 
lat  I  would  do- 
Id  collect  their 
conveyance  to 


Europe.  As  it  would  require  several  weeks  before  this  specie 
could  be  got  logcthei-,  I  |)roposed  to  visit  (i uaymas,  and  to  examine 
the  eastern  coast  of  the  (iulf  of  California  ;  but  this  was  frustrated 
by  the  revolt  of  Bravo,  the  vice-president  of  Mexico,  and  by  the 
affairs  of  the  state  becoming  so  disorgaiiized  that  the  merchants  furth- 
er requested  me  not  to  quit  the  ancliorage  until  they  assumed  a  less 
dangerous  aspect. 

Shortly  after  our  arrival  wo  began  to  feel  the  effects  of  the  un- 
healthy climate  of  San  Bias,  by  several  of  the  seamen  being  affec- 
ted with  interm'Uont  fevers  and  agues,  the  common  complaints  of 
the  place,  particularly  with  persons  who  reside  upon  low  ground, 
or  who  are  exposed  to  the  night  air ;  and  I  regret  to  add  that  we  here 
lost  Thomas  Moore,  one  of  our  most  active  seamen. 

On  the  27th  of  January,  1828,  the  agitation  occasioned  by  the 
revolt  had  subsided,  but  unfortunately  to  late  for  me  to  proceed  to 
Guaymas.  However,  as  the  principle  part  of  the  specie  was  to  be 
shipped  at  Mazatlan,  we  put  to  sea  a  few  days  earlier  than  was  ne- 
cessary for  that  purpose,  that  we  might  examine  the  Tres  Marias 
and  Issabella  Islands.  On  the  3d  February  we  reached  Mazatlan, 
a  very  exposed  anchorage,  in  which  ships  are  obliged  to  lie  so  close 
to  the  shore  that  there  would  be  very  great  difficulty  in  putting  to 
sea  with  tlie  wind  from  the  W.S.W,  to  S.E.  In  the  course  of  our 
survey,  a  rock  hav'n  g  only  eleven  feet  of  water  upon  it  was  discov- 
ered nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  anchorage,  and  occasioned  no  little 
surprise  that  of  the  many  vessels  which  had  put  into  the  port  all 
should  have  escaped  being  damaged  upon  it.  Mazatlan  is  more 
healthy  than  San  Bias,  and  our  people  here  began  to  recover  from 
the  disorders  they  had  contracted  at  that  place. 

February  7tb. — Having  embarked  the  specie  on  the  24th,  we 
put  to  ^aon  our  return  to  San  Bias,  and  ran  along  the  shore  with 
a  northerly  wind  which  is  here  prevalent  from  November  to  June. 
Liieutenant  Belcher,  in  the  cutter,  kept  in  shore  of  the  ship,  and 
61Ied  in  those  parts  of  the  ccast  which  could  not  be  seen  by  her : 
and  we  thus  completed  a  survey  of  the  coast  from  Mazatlan  to  sev- 
eral miles  South  of  San  Bias.  Between  these  two  ports  the  water 
shoals  so  gradually  that  there  is  no  danger  whatever. 

In  my  former  visit  to  this  place  I  found  it  necessary  to  proceed 
to  Tepic  to  meet  the  merchants  in  consultation,  and  on  that  occa- 
sion I  carried  with  me  the  necessary  instruments  for  determining  its 
position ;  by  which  it  appears  that  it  is  only  twenty-two  miles  direct 
from  the  port,  though  by  the  road  it  is  fifty-two.  It  is  in  latitude 
210  30'  42"  N.,  and  its  height  above  the  sea  2,900  feet.  By  a  reg- 
ister kept  there  during  our  stay,  its  mean  temperature  was  S'.l  be- 
low that  of  San  Bias,  and  the  range  2'*.8  greater. 

Tepic  is  the  second  town  in   importance  in  Xalisco,  now  called 

62 


•I 


II 


I-* 


# 


T 
•'"X. 


••^. 


i        tS 


:i[;W 


490 


VOYAGE    TO    THE    PACIFIC 


[March, 


Guadalaxara,  and  contains  8000  inhabitants ;  but  this  population  is 
augmented  to  about  11,000  in  the  unhealthy  season  upon  the  coast, 
at  which  time  the  people  resort  to  Tepic.  The  town  stands  in  the 
lowest  part  of  a  plain  nearly  surrounded  by  mountains,  and  not  far 
from  a  large  lake  which  exhales  a  malaria  fatal  to  those  who  attempt 
to  live  upon  its  banks.  On  hot  sunny  days,  of  which  there  are  many 
the  clouds  as  they  pass  often  envelope  the  town,  and  strike  a  chill 
which  proves  fatal  to  hundreds  of  persons  in  the  course  of  the  year ; 
and  immediately  the  sun  has  set  behind  the  mountains  a  cold  deposit 
takes  place,  which  is  so  great  that  it  soon  wets  a  person  through. 
Under  these  circumstances  Tepic  is  itself  scarcely  more  healthy  than 
the  sea-coast,  and  by  the  records  of  the  Church  it  appears  that 
the  deaths  exceed  the  births. 

About  a  league  and  a  half  from  Tepic,  at  the  foot  of  Mount  San 
Juan,  stands  Xalisco,  near  the  site  of  the  ancient  town  of  that  name. 
This  town,  though  so  close  to  Tepic,  is  very  salubrious.  I  had  the 
ci-riosity  to  examine  the  parish  books  here,  in  order  to  compare 
them  with  those  at  Tepic,  and  found  the  births  to  exceed  the  deaths 
in  the  proportion  eighty-four  to  nineteen.  In  a  population  of  only 
3000,  there  were  several  persons  upwards  of  a  hundred  years  of  age 
while  in  Tepic  there  are  very  few  above  seventy  two.  The  Span- 
iards are  fully  aware  of  this  difference  of  climate,  and  often  send  in- 
valids from  Tepic  to  Xalisco  to  recover  their  health  ;  yet  they  con- 
tinue to  reside,  and  even  to  build  new  houses  in  the  unhealthy  spot 
their  ancestors  have  chosen. 

The  1st  of  March  was  the  day  appointed  for  the  embarkation  of 
the  specie  at  San  Bias  ;  but  it  was  the  6th  before  it  arrived  and  the 
8th  before  we  could  put  to  sea.  On  my  way  to  the  southward  it 
became  necessary  to  call  at  Acapulco  for  the  purpose  of  securing 
the  bowsprit  previous  to  the  passage  round  Cape  Horn,  as  this  could 
not  be  done  conveniently  in  the  open  road  of  San  Bias.  While  we 
were  at  anchor  we  received  very  distressing  accounts  of  the  state  of 
affairs  at  Acapulco,  and  several  vessels  arrived  from  that  place  with 
passengers,  who  had  been  obliged  to  seek  their  safety  by  flight.  It 
appeared  that  shortly  after  the  revolt  of  Bravo,  the  Spaniards  with 
certain  exceptions,  were  expelled  from  the  Mexican  Territory ;  and 
that  Montesdeoca,  a  republican  general,  who  was  deeply  indebted 
to  some  Spaniards  at  Acapulco,  took  advantage  of  this  proclamation 
to  liquidate  his  debt  by  marching  against  the  town  with  a  lawless 
troop  of  half-cast  Mexicans,  and  by  obliging  the  Spaniards  to  take 
refuge  on  board  the  vessels  in  the  harbour,  or  to  secrete  themselves 
in  the  woods. 

On  putting  to  sea  from  San  Bias,  we  kept  along  the  land ;  the 
next  day  we  determined  the  position  of  Cape  Corrientes,  a  remar- 
kable promontory  on  this  coast,  and  on  the  10th  were  within  sight 


t' 


^2#^ 


f^iimi^ii''  ■  ■"-'■       ■''■^' 


t*5.-.. 

[March, 

opulation  is 
n  the  coast, 
lands  in  the 
and  not  far 
who  attempt 
!re  are  many 
strike  a  chill 
of  the  year ; 
cold  deposit 
son  through, 
healthy  than 
appears  that 

i"  Mount  San 
:>{  that  name. 
s.     I  had  the 
r  to  compare 
ed  the  deaths 
lation  of  only 
i  years  of  age 
The  Span- 
often  send  in- 
yet  they  con- 
inhealthy  spot 

mbarkation  of 
Irrived  and  the 
southward  it 
»se  of  securing 
as  this  could 
IS.     While  we 
|of  the  state  of 
lat  place  with 
by  flight.     It 
paniards  with 
'erritory;  and 
eply  indebted 
proclamation 
Iwith  a  lawless 
iniards  to  take 
ite  themselves 

Ithe  land;  the 
[ntes,  a  remar- 
within  sight 


1828.] 


AND    BEERING's  STRAIT. 


491 


of  the  volcano  of  Colinia.  This  mountain,  by  our  measurement 
from  a  base  of  forty -eight  miles,  is  1:2,003  feet  above  the  sea  ;  ami 
is  situated  in  latitude  19^  25'  24"  N.  and  longitude  1^41'  42"  E. 
of  the  arsenal  at  San  Bias.  On  the  11th,  in  latitude  17"  16  N., 
our  temperature  underwent  a  sensible  change,  previous  to  this  date 
the  thermometer  had  ranged  between  71°  and  73°,  but  on  this  day 
it  rose  to  82°,  and  did  not  fall  again  below  80°  until  after  we  quitted 
Acapulco.  I  notice  the  circumstance  in  consequence  of  Captain 
Hall  having  experienced  precisely  the  same  change  in  the  same  sit- 
uation.* 

Early  in  the  morning  of  the  12th  March  we  came  within  view  of 
the  Tetas  de  Coyuca,  two  peaked  hills,  which  are  considered  by 
seamen  the  best  guide  to  the  port  of  Acapulco,  pnd  the  next  morn- 
ing came  to  anchor  in  the  most  perfect  harbour  of  its  size  that  can 
be  imagined. 

The  town  of  Acapulco  was  now  tranquil,  two  Spanairds  only  be- 
ing left  in  the  place,  and  Montesdeoca  having  retired  to  Tulincinga 
and  disbanded  his  troops  by  order  of  the  congress.  The  govern- 
ment of  Acapulco  was  administered  by  Don  Jose  Manuella,  a  tool 
of  Montesdeoca,  who  received  me  in  his  shirt,  seated  upon  a 
Guyaquil  hammock,  in  which  he  was  swinging  from  side  to  side  of 
the  apartment. 

Having  effected  our  purpose  in  putting  into  the  port,  and  taken 
on  board  a  supply  of  turkeys  and  fruit,  which  are  finer  here  than  in 
any  other  part  of  the  world  with  which  I  am  acquainted,  we  put  to 
sea  on  the  18tb.  On  the  29th  March  we  crossed  the  equator  in 
99°  40'  W.,  and  arrived  at  Valparaiso  on  the  29th  of  April,  where 
we  had  the  gratification  to  find,  that  his  Royal  Highness  the  Lord 
High  Admiral  had  been  pleased  to  mark  his  approbation  of  our  pro- 
ceedings on  our  voyage  to  the  northward  in  1826,  by  honouring  the 
Blossom  with  the  first  commissions  for  promotion  which  had  been 
issued  under  his  Royal  Higlmess's  auspices.  Here  also,  I  found 
ordero  awaiting  my  arrival  to  convey  to  Europe  the  remmittances 
of  specie,  part  of  which  arrived  on  the  19th  May,  and  on  the  20th 
we  proceeded  to  Coquimbo  to  take  on  board  the  remainder. 

On  the  23d,  wher  seven  leagues  S.  W.  1-2  W,  of  this  port,  we 
were  surprised  by  the  shock  of  an  earthquake,  which  shook  the  ship 
so  forcibly,  that  some  nf  the  seamen  imagined  the  anchor  had 
been  let  go  by  accident,  aid  was  dragging-  the  chain-cable  with  it 
to  the  bottom  ;  while  others  supposed  the  ship  had  struck  upon  a 
shoal.  An  hour  afterwards  wo  felt  a  second  shock,  but  much  light- 
er. On  our  arrival  in  Coquimbo  wo  found  that  these  shocks  had 
been  felt  by  the  inhabitants  and   that  there  had  been  one  the  pre- 

1'  Hall's  South  America,  p.  18'2. 


■% 


492 


VOYAGE    TO  THE    PACIFIC 


[March, 


ceding  night,  which  made  the  churches  totter  until  the  bells  rang. 
Several  slight  shocks  were  afterwards  felt  by  the  inhabitants,  who 
are  very  sensible   o  these  subterraneous  convulsions. 

We  remained  several  days  in  this  port,  which  enjoys  one  of  the 
most  delightful  cliniates  imaginable,  where  gales  of  wind  are  scarce- 
ly ever  felt,  and  in  which  rain  is  a  very  rare  occurrence.  Situated 
between  the  ports  of  Valparaiso  and  of  Callao,  where  the  dews 
alone  irrigate  the  ground,  it  seems  to  partake  of  the  advantages  of 
the  climates  of  each,  without  the  inconvenience  of  the  rainy  season 
of  the  one,  or  of  the  heat  and  enervating  qualities  of  the  other. 

On  the  3d  June  all  the  specie  was  embarked,  and  we  put  to  sea  on 
our  way  to  Brazil ;  passed  the  meridian  of  Cape  Horn  on  the  30th, 
ill  very  thick  snowshowers  and  after  much  bad  weather  arrived  at 
Rio  Janeiro  on  the  21st  July.  Here  we  received  on  board  the 
Right  Hon.  Robert  Gordon,  ambassanor  to  the  court  of  Brazil,  and 
after  a  passage  of  forty-nine  days  arrived  at  Spithead,  and  on  the 
12th  October  paid  the  ship  off  at  Woolwich. 


^ 


\ 


In  this  voyage,  which  occupied  three  years  and  a  half,  we  sailt  d 
seventy-three  thousand  miles,,  and  experienced  every  vicis,  /ud 
of  chmate.  It  cannot  be  supposed  that  a  service  of  such  dur  '  .. 
and  of  such  an  arduous  nature,  has  been  performed  without  the  icos 
of  lives,  particularly  as  our  ship's  company  was,  from  tue  commence- 
ment, far  from  robust ;  and  I  have  to  lament  the  loss  of  eight  by 
sickness,  of  four  by  shipwreck,  of  one  missing,  of  one  drowned  in  a 
lake,  and  of  one  by  falling  overboard  in  a  gale  of  wind ;  in  a,ll  fifteen 
persons.  To  individuals  nothing  probably  can  compensate  for  these 
losses  ;  but  to  the  community,  considering  the  uncertainty  of  life 
under  the  most  ordinary  circumstances,  the  mortality  which  has  at- 
tended the  present  undertaking  will,  I  hope,  be  considered  compen- 
sated by  the  services  which  have  been  performed  by  the  expe- 
dition. 

In  closing  this  narrative  1  feel  it  my  duty  to  the  officers  employ- 
ed under  my  command,  particularly  to  those  whose  immediate  assis- 
tance I  have  acknowledged  in  my  introduction,  briefly  to  enumerate 
these  services,  as  they  are  of  such  a  nature  that  they  cannot 
appear  in  a  narrative,  and  as  my  professional  habits  have  unquali6ed 
me  for  executing,  with  justice  to  them,  or  with  satisfaction  to  my- 
self, the  task  of  authorship  which  has  devolved  upon  me  as  com- 
mander of  the  expedition,  and  which  I  should  not  have  undertaken 
had  I  not  felt  confident  that  the  candid  public  would  look  more  to 
what  has  been  actually  done,  than  to  the  mode  in  which  the  pro- 
ceedings have  been  detailed.  In  the  Appendix  to  the  quarto  edi- 
tion I  have  collected  as  much  information  as  the  nature  of  the  work 


PT 


i 


1828.] 


AND  BEERING  S  STRAIT. 


493 


would  admit.  Besides  the  interesting  matter  which  it  will  be  found 
to  contain,  the  expedition  has  surveyed  almost  every  place  it  touched 
at,  and  executed  plans  of  fourteen  harbours,  of  which  two  are  new ; 
of  upwards  of  forty  islands,  of  which  six  are  discoveries  ;  and  of  at 
least  six  hundred  miles  of  coasts,  one  fifth  of  which  has  not  before 
been  delineated.  There  have  also  been  executed  drawings  and 
views  of  headlands,  two  numerous  to  appear  in  one  work  j  and  I 
hope  shortly  to  be  able  to  lay  before  the  public  two  volumes  of 
natural  history. 

In  taking  my  leave,  it  is  with  the  greatest  pleasure  I  reflect  that 
the  Board  of  Admirality  again  marked  the  sense  they  entertained 
of  our  exertions,  by  a  further  liberal  promotion  at  the  close  of  the 
expedition. 


half,  we  sal'.t  d 
ery  vicls  *i*'ac 
such  dUi'     .: 
without  the  loss 
tkie  coramence- 
ss  of  eight  by 
3  drowned  in  a 
id ;  in  a]l  fifteen 
ensate  for  these 
ertainty  of  life 
J  which  has  at- 
idered  compen- 
by  the  expe- 


*.  ■i^'-'-fi- 


*^~ 


ly 


~ji. 


••v-^ 
^»-* 


-J 


